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23  WEST  MAIN  STREIT 

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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


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.;  1:. 


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Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

Z 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

M 


ails 

du 

idifier 

une 

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method: 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
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par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
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originaux  sont  film6s  en  commenqant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
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cas:  le  symbole  -^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN  ". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
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POLA 


♦ 


DUOOVERY  AND  ADVENTURE 


W  TBI 


POLAR  SEAS   AND  REGIONS. 


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PREFACE 


Thx  design  of  the  present  work  is  to  exhibit  « 
complete  and  connected  view  of  the  successive 
voyages  made  to  the  Arctic  regions.  In  those 
climates  Nature  is  marked  by  the  most  stupendous 
features,  and  the  forms  which  she  assumes  differ 
from  her  appearances  in  our  milder  latitudes  almost 
as  widely  as  if  they  belonged  to  another  planet. 
There  the  scenery  is  awful  and  dreary,  yet  abounds 
in  striking,  sublime,  and  even  beautiful  objects. 
The  career  of  the  navigators,  who  at  various  times 
have  traversed  the  northern  seas,  amid  tempest, 
darkness,  and  mountains  of  floating  ice,  presents 
such  a  series  of  peril  and  vicissitude,  and  has  given 
rise  to  so  many  extraordinary  displays  of  intrepidity 
and  heroism,  as  cannot  fail  to  render  most  fiiterest- 
ing  the  story  of  their  several  adventures.  When 
we  consider  also,  that  in  this  field  of  discovery 
England  laid  the  foundation  of  her  maritime  pie- 
eminence,  and  that  the  men  who  have  earned  the 
greatest  glory  in  it  have  been  chiefly  British,  it  will 
be  admitted  that  the  History  of  Northern  Navigation 
must  have  a  peculiar  charm  for  the  Englis}!  reader. 

The  narrative  of  these  Voyages  has  been  care- 
fully drawn  from  the  most  authentic  sources,  by 


vi  PREFAOSt 

Mr.  Hugh  Murray ;  and  the  most  distingaishedmen 
of  science  in  Scotland  have  lent  their  aid  to  illus* 
trate  that  wonderful  order  of  nature  wliich  prevaOs 
within  the  Arctic  Circle.  Professor  Leslie  has 
commenced  the  volume  with  a  full  examination  of 
the  Climate  and  its  Phenomena,— subjects  so  promi- 
nent in  those  high  latitudes,  that,  without  a  prelimi- 
nary knowledge  of  them,  the  progress  of  discovery 
would  be  but  imperfectly  understood.  A  general 
Survey  of  all  that  is  known  of  the  Geological  Struc- 
ture of  the  same  interesting  regions  is  given  by  Pro- 
fessor Jameson.  The  chapter  on  Natural  History, 
though  it  treats  the  subject  rather  in  a  popular  than 
in  a  scientific  manner,  has  received  the  careiul  re- 
vision of  a  distinguished  naturalist 

The  Whale-fishery  forms  an  essential  branch  of 
the  present  work.  Of  its  daring  operations,  and  its 
various  perils — as  they  occur  in  the  depth  of  the 
Polar  seas— the  description  here  introduced  may  be 
the  more  acceptable,  as  it  is  presumed  to  be  the  only 
one  hitherto  attempted  within  a  moderate  compass. 

It  might,  perhaps,  be  expected  that  this  work 
should  embrace  an  account  of  the  expeditions  per- 
formed, by  land  or  in  boats,  to  ascertain  the  northern 
boundaries  of  America  and  Asia :  such  a  narrative, 
however,  was  found  quite  incompatible  with  the 
object  of  the  present  undertaking.  The  relation 
of  these  enterprises  may  find  a  place  in  some  future 
volumes  devoted  expressly  to  the  history  of  adven- 
ture on  the  remote  shores  of  those  two  continents 


■■Miiiritriiiiiitfc--iiiiiiiViiiiM[<iiBiiiWii[aiiia^^ 


■;■♦■' 


)st  distingaishedmen 
ent  their  aid  to  illus* 
ature  wlilch  prevails 
rofessor  Leslie  has 
full  examination  of 
,— subjects  80  promi- 
Eit,  without  a  prelimi- 
trogress  of  discovery 
ierstood.  A  general 
he  Geological  Struc- 
ions  is  given  by  Pro- 
on  Natural  History, 
ler  in  a  popular  than 
eived  the  careful  re> 
alist 

1  essential  branch  of 
ig  operations,  and  its 
in  the  depth  of  the 
re  introduced  may  be 
isumed  to  be  the  only 
I  moderate  compass, 
icted  that  this  work 
the  expeditions  per- 
iscertain  the  northern 
[a :  such  a  narrative, 
:ompatible  with  the 
king.  The  relation 
place  in  some  future 
the  history  of  adven- 
hose  two  continents 


CONTENTS. 


Chip.I.— The  Climate  of  the  PoIm  Regions    ...  "5 
n — Aninial  and  Vegetable  life  in  the  Polar 

Regions a» 

in.— Ancient  Voyages  to  the  North     ....    83 
rV. — Voyage*  in  Search  of  a  North-East  Paaaage    90 
v.— Early  Voyagei  towards  the  Pole  ....  18a 
VI.— Early  Voyages  in  Search  of  a  North-West 

Passage 143 

VII.P— Recent  Voyages  for  the  Discorerf  of  a 

North-West  Passage MO 

T  m.— Recent  Voyages  towards  the  North  Polo  .  S69 
EC'^The  Northern  Whsle-Fisheiy .  .  .  .  ;  Wf 
X. — Arctic  Geology  >•• ,.  353 


■Hita 


mp«MaiVfr««««E«a 


ENGRAVINGS. 


Chart  of  the  Polar  Seas     .    .    .     To  face  the  TttUpage. 
VioOTtTTK— Perils  attending  the  Whale-Fjahcry 

'««•>«'■«■ Pa^e28 

Whale  with  its  Cub,  Narwal,  Ac 57 

Arctic  Animals— Polar  Bear,  Reindeer,  Wolf,  Pox,' 

„^°8'*«'-- 65 

Esquimaux  Boy  md  Dog gg 

Bear  approaching  a  Srow-hut 131 

Esquimaux  striking  a  Walrus !    !    !  148 

Kayak,  or  Greenlander's  Canoe !  164 

Mount  Hecia •    •    !    *  181 

Oomiak,  or  Woman's  Boat !    .  224 

SnowViUage !    !    !    .  834 

Group  of  Esquimaux !    !  846 

Esquimaux  Watching  a  Seal-hole     ...*.*    .'    .*  .^9 

^inplemenU  used  in  the  Whale-Fisheiy .    .    .    !    !  315 


^*  ■■*•■> >..-«>-.. 


-^11  i'lil'whia'ilifii   iiiiimi  iimfaat^^M^iiia^^gnj 


[NQS. 


.    Tofcxe  the  TttUpage. 
iVhale-Fishory 
•    .    .    .    .    Page  28 

' 67 

indeer,  Wolf,  Fox, 

65 

88 

131 

143 

164 

••••»..  181 

224 

234 

846 

' «49 

ishery 315 


POLAR 
SEAS  AND  REGIONS. 


CHAPTER  I. 


The  OitmOe  of  the  Polar  Regiom. 

Tot  climate  and  seasons  within  the  Arctic  cirete 
exhibit  most  peculiar  and  strikine  features,  which 
modify  in  a  sin^ar  manner  the  whole  aspect  of  na 
ture.  An  investigation  of  those  phenomena  seems 
therefore  necessary  for  enabling  the  reader  to  com- 
prehend the  narrative,  and  to  follow  through  such 
icy  regions  the  paths  of  the  daring  navigators.  And 
the  more  fully  to  elucidate  the  subject,  it  will  be 
proper  to  give  some  explication  of  the  principles  that 
regulate  generally  the  distribution  of  neat  over  the 
simace  of  our  globe. 

Many  of  the  acts  relating  to  the  Polar  climate  have 
been  collected  in  the  course  of  the  bold  and  ardu- 
ous attempts  to  penetrate  to  India  across  the  northern 
seas,  rejects  of  tfiis  kind,  after  being  lone  sus- 
pended, were,  in  1818,  renewed,  and  embraced  with 
peculiar  ardour  by  the  English  government  For 
two  or  three  years  previous  to  1818,  the  captains  of 
ships  employed  in  the  northern  whale-fishenr  had  ge- 
nerally concurred  in  representing  the  Arctic  sea  as 
of  a  sti/'den  become  almost  open  and  accessible  to 
the  adventurous  navigator.  Bythemorespeculativs 
relaterti,  it  had  been  supposed  that  the  vast  'vej  bar* 
Tier  which,  for  many  ages,  obstructed  those  foilom 
regions  was  at  last,  by  some  revolution  of  ouKglobsh 


10 


ClIHATK. 


broken  up  and  dispersed.  The  project  of  finding  a 
north-west  passage  to  Asia,— a  project  so  often 
attempted  and  so  long  abandoned, — was  by  conse 
quence  again  revived ;  and  the  more  daring  scheme 
of  penetrating  to  the  Pole  itself  had  likewise  been 
seriously  proposed.  Of  the  complete  success  of 
either  plan,  the  hopes  of  sober  thinkers  were  indeed 
extremely  slender;  yet  the  prospect  held  forth 
seemed  to  be  more  inviting,  on  the  whole,  than  at  any 
former  period  when  such  bold  undertakings  had  been 
attempted.  The  discovery  of  a  north-west  passage, 
were  it  ever  attainable,  could  hardly,  it  is  true,  be 
of  any  real  benefit  to  our  commerce ;  since,  in  such 
high  latitudes,  where  only  it  must  be  sought  for,  it 
would  at  all  times  be  very  precarious,  and  liable 
to  intemtption  from  the  prevalence  of  ice.  The 
scheme  of  actually  reaching  that  northern  point  on 
the  surface  of  our  globe,  which  terminates  its  axis 
of  rotation,  however  interesting  m  a  philosophical 
view,  can  only  be  regarded  as  an  object  of  pure  cu- 
riosity, and  not  hkely  to  lead  to  any  useful  or  prac- 
tical results.  Yet  was  it  befitting  the  character  of 
a  great  maritime  nation  to  embrace  every  chance 
of  improving  geographical  knowledge,  and  of  ex- 
tending the -basis  of  natwal  science. 

The  books  and  memoirs  which  contain  the  latest 
accounts  of  the  state  of  the  northern  seas,  either  sug- 

i rested  the  enterprise  then  pursued,  or  were  brought 
brward  in  consequence  of  its  adoption.  Mr.  Dames 
Barrington,  a  man  of  learning  and  some  ingenuity,  em- 
braced with  ardour  the  opinion  of  the  possibility  of  ap- 
proaching to  the  Pole.  In  successive  papers  commu- 
nicate d  to  the  Royal  Society  of  Irf)n(U>n  he  not  only 
condensed  the  information  furnished  by  the  older  voy- 
agers, but  exhibited  the  results  of  the  numerous  que- 
ries relating  to  the  same  object,  which  he  had  circu- 
lated among  persons  engaged  in  the  Greenland  fishery 
He  thus  iMt)ved,  that  in  certain  favourable  seasons,  Uie 
Arctic  «eas  are  for  several  weeks  so  open,  that  intrepid 


rv. 

lie  project  of  findine  a 
I,— a  project  so  often 
idoned, — was  by  conse 
de  more  daring  scheme 
self  had  likewise  been 
3  complete  success  of 
3r  thinkers  were  indeed 
!  prospect  held  forth 
n  tne  whole,  than  at  any 
1  undertakings  had  been 
f  a  north-west  passage, 
Id  hardly,  it  is  true,  be 
nmerce ;  since,  in  such 
must  be  sought  for,  it 
precarious,  and  liable 
svalence  of  ice.  The 
that  northern  point  on 
ich  terminates  its  axis 
ting  ma  philosophical 
I  an  object  of  pure  cu- 
'.  to  any  useful  or  prac- 
itting  the  character  of 
embrace  every  chance 
Jiowledge,  and  of  ex- 
cieuce. 

>iich  contain  the  latest 
irthem  seas,  either  sug- 
rsued,  or  were  brought 
adoption.  Mr.  Daines 
nd  some  ingenuity,  em- 
of  the  possibility  of  ap- 
cessive  papers  commu- 
of  liOndon  he  not  only 
lished  by  the  older  voy- 
i  of  the  numerous  que- 
st, which  he  had  circu< 
1  the  Greenland  fishenr 
favourable  seasons,  tae 
\B  so  open,  that  intrepid 


CtniATB. 


11 


navigators  might  safely  penetrate  to  a  very  high 
latitutlc.  In  compliance  with  his  sanguine  repre- 
sentat  ions,  the  Admiralty,  in  1773,  despatched  Captain 
Phipps  to  explore  those  regions ;  but  this  commander 
was  unsuccessful  in  the  attempt,  having  reached  only 
the  latitude  of  80i  degrees  when  his  ship  got  sur- 
rounded by  a  body  of  ice  near  Spitzbergen,  and  es- 
caped with  extreme  difficulty,  though  many  of  the 
whaleis  had  in  that  summer  advanced  further.  Mr. 
Barringlon  did  not,  however,  despair ;  nd,  following 
out  his  views,  he  induced  Mr.  Naire  aid  Dr.  Higgins 
to  mako  experiments  on  the  congelation  of  sea-water. 
The  various  facts  were  collected  in  a  small  volume, 
to  whi{h  Colonel  Beaufoy  subjoined  an  appendix, 
containing  the  answers  made  to  his  queries  by  Rus- 
sian hunters  (who  are  accustomed  to  spend  the 
whole  yesir  in  Spitzbergen),  relative  to  the  probability 
of  travelling  from  that  island  to  the  Pole  during  win- 
ter, in  sledges  drawn  by  rein-deer.  The  reports  of 
these  haidy  men  were  sufficiently  discouraging. 
Tliey  pictured  the  winter  at  Spitzbergen  as  not  only 
severe  but  extremely  boisterous,  the  snow  falling  to 
the  depth  of  three  or  five  feet,  and  drifting  so  much 
along  the  shores  by  the  violence  of  the  winds  as 
often  to  Mock  up  all  communication.  The  danger 
of  being  surprised  and  overwhelmed  by  clouds  of 
snow,  raised  in  sudden  gusts,  was  so  great,  that  they 
never  ventinred  to  undertake  any  long  journeys  over 
liie  ice.  ^for  did  they  think  it  at  all  practicable  to 
have  loaded  sledges  dragged  over  a  surface  so 
rough  and  Idlly,  by  the  force  of  reindeer  or  dogs. 

■nie  speculations  of  Mr.  Scoresby  had  more  than 
ordinary  chums  to  attention,  as  exhibiting  the  con- 
clusions of  a  most  diligent,  accurate,  and  scientific 
observer.  Trained,  from  infancy  to  the  navigation 
of  the  frozen  seas,  under  the  direction  of  his  father, 
a  r  ost  enlei-prising  and  successful  leader,  he  con- 
joined expoiience  with  ingenuity  and  judgment.  For 
several  years,  during  the  intervals  of  his  Greenland 


msmmmm 


m 


WMW"  -^^ 


/^ 


IS  ouiiAn< 

yaytgm,  he  proMcated  a  regular  comae  of  study, 
wmcn  enriched  his  mind  with  liberal  attainments,  and 
gave  a  new  impulse  to  his  native  ingenuity  and 
ardour.  It  was  exceedingly  to  be  regretted  that  any 
JealoiBries  or  official  punctUios  should  have  prevented 
government  from  intru8tin|r  the  principal  command 
of  the  Polar  expedition  to  hun  who  not  only  proposed 
it  originally,  but  whoso  talents  and  science,  Joined  to 
his  activity,  perseverance,  and  enthusiasm,  afforded 
assuredly  the  best  promise  of  its  ultimate  success. 

Hans  Esede,  a  benevolent  enthusiast,  formed  a 
plan  of  reclaiming  the  natives  of  Greenland  from  the 
errors  of  Paeanism.  After  various  ineffectual  at- 
tempts, he  at  last  procured,  by  subscription,  the  sum 
of  £3000,  with  which  he  purcnased  a  vi  ssel,  and  car< 
ried  his  family  and  forty  settlers  to  Baal*s  river,  in 
the  64th  degree  of  north  latitude,  where  he  landed 
on  the  3d  of  July,  1731.  He  was  afterward  ap- 
pointed missionary,  with  a  small  salary  by  the  Danish 
government,  which  occasionally  granted  some  aid  to 
Uie  colony.  During  his  stay,  which  lasted  till  1736, 
he  laboured  with  great  zeal  m  his  vocation.  In  1767, 
the  year  before  his  death,  he  printed  his  Deteription 
t^GreaUand,  in  the  Danish  langua^,  at  Copenhagen. 
A  translation  of  that  work,  much  miproved  and  en- 
laired,  with  useful  additions  by  the  editor,  contains 
valuable  information,  tinged  vrith  a  large  portion  of 
creduhty. 

It  is  remarkable,  that  two  centuries  of  extreme 
activity  should  have  added  so  very  little  to  our 
knowledge  of  the  Arctic  regions,  llie  relations  of 
the  earlier  navigators  to  tiiose  parts  possess  an  in- 
terest which  has  not  been  yet  eclipsed.  The  voyue 
of  Martens  from  Hamburgh  to  Spitzbergen  may  Be 
cited  as  still  the  most  instructive^  But  uie  best  and 
completest  work  on  the  subject  of  the  northern 
fisheries,  is  a  treatise  in  three  volumes  octavo,  trans- 
lated from  the  Dutch  language  into  French  by 
Bernard  de  Reste,  and  published  at  Paris  in  1801, 


rTimUBiTiitiir 


t. 


galar  comae  of  study, 
liberal  attainments,  and 
native  ingenuity  and 
to  be  regretted  that  any 
I  should  have  prevented 
the  principal  command 
1  who  not  only  proposed 
1  and  science,  Joined  to 
d  enthusiasm,  afforded 
its  ultimate  success, 
t  enthusiast,  formed  a 
I  of  Greenland  from  the 
various  ineffectual  at- 
V  subscription,  the  sum 
based  a  vi  ssel,  and  car* 
lers  to  Baal*s  river,  in 
tude,  where  he  landed 
He  was  afterward  ap- 
all  salary  by  the  Danish 
Uy  granted  some  aid  to 
which  lasted  till  1736, 
his  vocation.  In  1767, 
printed  his  I7e*ertp<KM 
igua^,  at  Copenhagen, 
luch  miproved  and  en- 
by  the  editor,  contains 
nrith  a  large  portion  of 

centuries  of  extreme 
so  very  little  to  our 
ons.  The  relations  of 
B  parts  possess  an  in- 
eclipsed.  The  voyue 
o  Spitzbergen  may  on 
tive«  But  uie  best  and 
bject  of  the  northern 
volumes  octavo,  trans- 
lage  into  French  by 
shed  at  Paris  in  1801, 


CLIIUTI. 


18 


un^er  the  title  Hittmre  de$  Picha,  des  DicomeiUt, 
ttdes  Etablitsemens  da  HoUandaii  dans  len  Mer»  du 
Nard. 

Tli«  Arctic  expedition,  which  in  1818  attracted  the 
attention  of  the  public,  proposed  two  d/ninct  ob- 
jects,—to  advance  towards  the  Pole— and  to  explore 
a  north-west  passage  to  China.  These  were  no 
doubt  splendid  schemes ;  but,  in  order  to  form  a  right 
estimate  of  the  plan  and  some  anticipation  of  its  pro- 
bable  results,  it  was  necessary  to  proceed  with  cau- 
tion, and  employ  the  lights  of  science  to  guide  our 
steps.  The  facts  alleged,  respecting  the  vast  islands 
or  continents  of  ice  recently  separated  and  dispersed 
from  the  Arctic  regions,  gave  occasion  to  much  loose 
reasoning,  to  wild  and  random  conjectures,  and 
visionary  declamation.  Glowing  anticipations  were 
confidently  formed  of  the  future  amelioration  of  cli- 
mate, which  would  scarcely  be  hazarded  even  in  the 
dreams  of  romance.  Every  person  possessing  a 
slight  tincture  of  physical  science,  conceived  himself 
qualified  to  speculate  concerning  the  phenomena  of 
weather,  in  which  he  feels  a  deep  interest  j  and  hence 
a  very  flimsy  and  spurious  kind  of  philosophy,  how- 
ever trifling  or  despicable  it  may  appear  in  the  eyes 
of  the  few  who  are  accustomed  to  think  more  pro- 
foundly, gained  currency  among  certain  classes  of 
men,  and  engendered  no  smaU  ^are  of  conceit. 
Meteorology  is  a  complex  science,  depending  on  so 
many  subordinate  principles,  that  require  the  union 
of  acciurate  theory  with  a  range  of  nice  and  various 
observations,  as  to  have  advanced  very  slowly 
towards  perfection. 

With  regard  to  the  nature  and  real  extent  of  the 
change  which  had  taken  place  in  the  condition  of 
the  icy  seas,  the  reports  have  no  doubt  been  greatly 
exaggerated.  To  reduce  them  to  their  just  amount, 
it  woulf*.  be  necessary  to  estimate  the  annual  effects 
produced  in  those  regions,  and  likewise  to  compare 
the  observations  of  a  similar  kmd  made  by  expe- 


im 


14 


OUHATX. 


rienced  navigators  at  fonner  periods.  From  a 
critical  examination  of  the  vanous  facts  left  on 
record,  it  will  perhaps  appear,  that  those  Arctic 
seas  have  been  more  than  once,  in  the  course  of 
the  last  half  century,  as  open  as  they  are  now  repre- 
sented. 

To  discuss  with  accuracy  the  question  of  the 
periodical  formation  and  destruction  of  the  Polar 
ice,  it  becomes  necessary  to  explain  the  true  princi- 
pies  which  regulate  the  distribution  of  heat  over  the 
globe.  This  I  shall  attempt  to  perform,  independent 
of  every  hypothesis,  by  a  direct  appeal  to  experiment 
and  observation. 

If,  at  any  place  we  dig  into  the  ground,  we  find,  by 
the  insertion  of  a  thermometer,  that,  as  we  succes- 
sively descend,  we  approach  constantly  to  some 
limitmg  temperature,  wnich  below  a  certain  depth 
continues  unchanged.  This  depth  of  equilibrium 
varies  in  different  soils ;  but  seldom  exceeds  thirty 
or  fifty  feet.  If  the  excavation  be  made  about  the 
commencement  of  winter,  the  temperature  will  ap- 
pear to  increase  in  the  lower  strata ;  but,  on  the  con- 
trary, if  the  pit  be  formed  in  the  beginning  of  sum- 
mer, it  will  be  foimd  to  grow  colder  as  we  descend.* 
Hence,  the  mass  of  the  earth  merely  transmits  veiy 
slowly  the  impressions  of  heat  or  of  cold  received  at 
its  surface.  The  external  temperature  of  any  given 
day  will  perhaps  take  near  a  month  to  penetrate 
only  one  foot  into  the  ground.  By  digging  down- 
wards in  summer,  we  soon. reach,  therefore,  the  im- 
pressions of  the  preceding  spring  and  winter ;  but  the 
same  progress  into  tiie  ground  brings  us  back  to  the 

*  In  the  dreary  climate  of  Hudion'i  Bajr,  it  la  remaikad  bj  the  ml. 
denta,  thai,  erea  durtDf  the  anmmer  montha,  in  digglnf  Ibrongh  Iha 
ground  Ibr  a  grave,  they  alwaya  come  at  the  depth  of  a  Aw  ftet  to  a 
atrsturo  of  fmen  earth.  A  alngularftature  of  the  remoter  Arelletiaeta 
la  the  flreqnent  appearance  of  ml  mote.  Tbla  deception  la  oeeaaioned 
hy  the  interspersed  multitudes  of  mtnnte  plants,  now  termed  Pntoeoeau 
itiiiala,  a  species  of  A  Ira,  which  penetrate  to  a  great  depth  through  ths 
anow,  and  vegetate  in  the  aevenst  weather 


liiiWWBa 


MIMATE. 


IS 


T  periods.  From  a 
ranous  facts  left  on 
ir,  that  those  Arctic 
ice,  in  the  course  of 
us  they  are  now  repre< 

the  question  of  the 
miction  of  the  Polar 
Kplain  the  true  princi« 
ution  of  heat  over  the 
)  perform,  independent 
t  appeal  to  experiment 

he  ground,  we  find,  by 
3r,  that,  as  we  succes- 
1  constantly  to  some 
lelow  a  certain  depth 
depth  of  equilibrium 
eldom  exceeds  thirty 
in  be  made  about  the 
I  temperature  will  ap- 
trata;  but,  on  the  con- 
le  be^nning  of  sum- 
older  as  we  descend.* 
merely  transmits  very 
or  of  cold  received  at 
iperature  of  any  given 
1  month  to  penetrate 
1.  Bv  digging  down« 
ach,  therefore,  the  im- 
ig  and  winter;  but  the 
brings  us  back  to  the 

sy,  it  ii  nmaiked  by  Iha  rMl. 
>nth«.in  digilnf  tbroagh  the 
tbe  depth  of  a  Aw  ftat  to  ■ 
re  of  the  remoter  Areiletiaeta 
Thle  deception  ti  oeeasioned 
lants,  now  Mrmed  Pnlacoeeu* 
te  10  s  greki  depth  through  th* 


temperatures  of  the  autumn  and  of  the  summer. 
Still  lower,  all  the  various  fluctuations  of  heat  be- 
come intermingled  and  confounded  in  one  common 
mean.  Such  observations  are  more  easily  and  cor- 
rectly made,  by  having  thermometers,  with  long 
stems,  sunk  to  different  depth?  in  the  ground ;  and 
from  an  extensive  register  we  may  conclude,  that  tho 
temperature  of  the  ground  is  always  the  mean  result 
of  the  impressions  made  at  the  surface  during  a 
series  of  years.  The  successive  strata,  therefore,  at 
preat  depths,  may  be  regarded  as  permanent  records 
of  the  average  state  of  the  weat'aer  in  distant  ages. 
Perhaps  the  superficial  influence  will  scarcely  de- 
scend fifty  feet  m  the  lapse  of  a  century.  Copious 
springs,  which  percolate  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  and 
rapidly  convey  the  impressions  of  subterranean  heat 
to  the  surface,  will  consequently  furnish  the  most 
accurate  reports  of  the  natural  register  of  climate. 
These,  if  rightly  chosen,  differ  not  sensibly  in  theit 
temperature  at  all  seasons ;  and,  whether  they  have 
their  seat  at  a  depth  of  one  hundred  or  of  five  hun- 
dred feet,  they  affect  the  thermometer  alike.*  Wo 
are  hence  entitled  to  conclude,  that  however  the 
weather  may  have  varied  from  year  to  year,  or 
changed  its  character  at  intervals  of  short  periods  of 
years,  it  has  yet  undergone  no  material  alteration 
during  the  efflux  of  many  ages. 

Some  philosophers  attempt  to  explain  such  facts 
as  are  now  stated,  from  the  supposed  internal  heat 
of  the  globe,  caused  by  the  action  of  central  fires ; 
and  pretend,  in  support  of  their  favourite  hypothesis- 

..r  Th«  "'"b^teJ  nrantaJn  of  Vancltue,  eltnate  fai  the  latitude  of  430 
55 ,  and  SM  diet  abore  the  le»el  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  ha«  benn  ob- 
•enred  to  acquire  Ita  hIgheM  temperature  aboni  the  Drat  day  of  Sewem- 
b«  and  to  reach  the  lowMt  at  the  beginning  of  April,  the  fbrmer  being 
560.8,  and  the  latter  94o.l  by  Fahranhelt'a  scale ;  which  gWee  540.2  tor 
.  "f"*  "•"•  "*  """•"  •"  solleoted  fttmi  tbe  flaaurea  of  an  meo- 
ai»« UuMMooe rack, and aeeinio receWe  the  auperflclal  Impreaalons  In 
Je  space  of  three  months.  They  burst  fcrth  with  aueh  a  volume  as  to 
wm,  only  a  ftiw  yards  below  their  source,  the  translucld  SorROe.  a  rtfer 
•sawelylilteioriq  ita  dlachaige  to  the  Tay  abore  Perth.      »""•""'" 


mm 


16 


CLIMATE. 


that  the  temperature  nlwayi  increases  near  the  bot- 
tom of  vf>ry  (lenp  mines.  But  this  observation  liolda 
only  in  partitnilar  situations,  where  the  warm  exha- 
lations from  the  burning  of  lamps  and  the  broathiiigr 
ttf  the  workmen  are  collected  and  confined  under  the 
roofs  of  the  galleries.  In  the  case  of  a  deep  open 
pit,  the  effect  is  quite  reversed,  the  bottom  beini;; 
always  colder  than  the  mean  temperature.  This  is 
owing  to  the  tendency  of  the  chill  air  to  descend  by 
its  superior  density.  The  supcrhcial  impressions  of 
heat  and  cold  are  thus  not  sent  equally  downwards ; 
so  that  the  warmth  of  summer  is  dissipated  at  the 
mouth  of  the  pit,  while  the  rigours  of  winter  are  col- 
lected below.  A  similar  modification  of  temperature 
we  shall  find  occurs  in  profound  lakes,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  disposition  of  the  colder  and  denser 
portions  of  the  water  always  to  sink  down. 

The  permanent  heat  of  the  ground  is,  therefore, 
produced  by  the  mere  accumulation  of  incessant  ex- 
ternal impressions.  These  impressions  are  received, 
either  directly  from  the  sun's  rays,  or  circuitously, 
through  the  medium  of  atmospheric  influence.  But 
air  is  hetter  fitted  for  diffusing  than  for  storing  up 
heat.  The  whole  mass  of  the  atmosphere,  it  may  be 
easily  shown,  does  not  contain  more  heat  than  a 
stratum  of  water  only  ten  feet  thick,  or  one  of  earth 
measuring  fifteen  feet.  According  to  their  relative 
temperature,  the  winds,   in   sweeping  along   the 

ground,  either  abstract  or  conmiunicate  warmth, 
ut  the  sun  is  the  great  and  original  fountain  of 
heat,  which  the  internal  motion  excited  in  the  at- 
mosphere only  serves  to  distribute  more  equally  over 
the  earth's  surface.  The  heat  imparted  to  the  air, 
or  to  the  ground,  is  always  proportional  to  the  ab- 
sorption of  the  solar  beams;  and  the  results  are 
hence  still  the  same,  whether  we  embrace  the  simple 
theory,  that  heat  is  only  the  subtle  fluid  of  light,  in 
a  state  of  combination  with  its  substratum ;  or  pre- 
fer the  opinion,  that  light  has  always  conjomed 


mMh 


icreases  near  the  bot- 
this  observation  holds 
vhere  the  warm  exha- 
mps  and  the  hroatliing 
ind  conAncd  under  the 

case  of  a  deep  open 
led,  the  bottom  being 
temperature.  This  is 
diilt  air  to  descend  by 
erhcial  impressions  of 
it  eqdally  downwards ; 
er  ia  dissipated  at  the 
ours  of  winter  are  col- 
Ication  of  temperature 
ound  lakes,  in  conse- 
;he  colder  and  denser 
o  sink  down. 

ground  is,  therefore, 
lation  of  incessant  ex- 
pressions are  received, 

rays,  or  circuitously, 
pheric  influence.  But 
;  than  for  storing  up 
atmosphere,  it  may  be 
tin  more  heat  than  a 
thick,  or  one  of  earth 
irding  to  their  relative 
sweeping  along  the 
ommunicate  warmth. 

original  fountain  of 
ion  excited  in  the  at- 
lule  more  equally  over 
t  imparted  to  the  air, 
roportional  to  the  ab- 

and  the  results  are 
ive  embrace  the  simple 
ubtle  fluid  of  light,  in 
B  substratum;  or  pre- 
las  always  conjoined 


CLIMATB  If 

With  it  a  certain  admixture  of  the  invisible  matter 
of  heal. 

Owing  to  the  spherical  form  of  the  earth,  and  the 
obliquity  of  its  axis,  very  different  quantities  of  !lght 
or  heat  are  received  in  the  several  latitudes.  The 
same  portion  of  heat  which  would  raise  the  tempera- 
ture of  135  pounds  of  water  a  degree  on  Fahrenheit's 
s&Rle,  is  only  capable  of  melting  one  pound  of  ice. 
The  measure  of  ice  dissolved  is,  therefore,  the  sim- 
plest  and  most  correct  standard  for  estimating  the 
quantity  of  heat  expended  in  that  process.  If  we 
apply  calculation  to  actual  experiment,  we  shall  find 
that  the  entire  and  unimpaired  light  of  the  sun  would, 
at  the  Equator,  at  the  mean  latitude  of  46°,  and  at 
the  Pole,  be  sufllcient  to  melt  a  thickness  of  ice  ex- 
pressed by  38.7, 86.9,  and  13.4  feet.  Of  this  enor- 
mous action,  the  greatest  portion  is  no  doubt  wasted 
in  the  vast  abyss  of  the  ocean ;  and,  of  the  remain, 
der,  a  still  larger  share  is  perhaps  detained  and  dis- 
sipated in  the  upper  atmosphere,  or  projected  agaia 
in  a  soft  phosphorescence.  Yet  the  light  which,  afta 
those  defalcations,  finally  reaches  the  surface  of  the 
earth,  if  left  to  accumulate  there,  would  create  suck 
inequality  of  temperature  as  must  prove  quite  insup- 
portable. 

The  slow  conducting  quality  of  the  ground,  if  not 
altered  by  extraneous  influence,  would  fix  the  heat 
where  it  was  received,  and  thus  perpetuate  the  eflfect 
of  the  unequal  action  of  the  sun's  beams.  The 
mobiUty  of  the  atmosphere  hence  performs  an  im- 
portant office  in  the  economy  of  nature,  as  a  great 
regulator  of  the  system,  dispensing  moderate  warmth, 
and  attempering  the  extremities  of  climate  over  the 
face  of  the  globe.  As  the  heat  accumulates  within 
the  tropics,  it  will  occasion  currents  of  cold  air  to 
rush  from  the  higher  latitudes.  But  the  activity  of 
the  winds  thus  raised,  being  proportional  to  their  ex- 
citing cause,  must  prevent  it  from  ever  surpassing 
certain  limits.  A  perpetual  commerce  of  heat  be- 
B8 


18 


OiniATB. 


tween  the  Poles  nnd  the  Equator  it  hence  maintained, 
by  the  agtsiw-y  of  oprxwitn  currenlH  in  tho  atmotphcre. 
llieae  currents  will  often  have  their  dircction  moili* 
fled ;  and  they  njay  Btill  produce  the  same  effects,  by 
puTHuinfT  an  oblique  or  devious  course.  The  actual 
phenomena  of  climate  only  require  the  various 
winds,  throughout  tlie  year,  to  advance  southwards 
or  northwards  at  the  mean  rate  of  almost  two  miles 
an  hour,  or  to  perform  in  effect  three  journeys  of 
transfer  annually  from  tlie  Ki|uator  to  either  Pole. 
Not  that  these  currents  carry  the  impressions  of  heat 
or  cold  directly  from  one  extremity  of  the  ^lobo  to 
the  other,  but,  by  their  incessant  play,  they  contri- 
bute, in  the  succession  of  ages,  to  spread  them  gra- 
dually over  tho  intervening  space. 

The  system  of  opoosito  aerial  currents  leads  to  the 
same  law  of  the  graaation  of  temperature  in  different 
latitudes,  as  the  celebrated  Professor  Mayer  of  G6t- 
tingen  deduced  from  an  empirical  process.  It  would 
appear  that  the  variation  of  the  mean  temperature 
at  the  level  of  the  sea  is  always  proportional  to  tho 
sine  of  twice  the  latitude.  Thus,  for  the  parallels 
of  every  five  degrees,  the  arrangement  is  simple ; — 


LalHnd*. 

Mean  Ttmntnton. 

lAillnde. 

M«an  TMnpwatnr*. 

o» 

84« 

60° 

53».5 

6 

83  .8 

55 

49  .3 

10 

83  .4 

60 

45  .0 

15 

80  .7 

65 

41  .3 

SO 

77  .9 

70 

38  .1 

S5 

74  .9 

75 

35  .5 

30 

70  .9 

80 

33  .6 

36 

67  .0 

85 

33  .4 

40 

63  .4 

90 

33  * 

45 

58  .0 

*  Perhtpa  thtgnulMton  ortempererarawoaId,in  the  higher  IntllndM, 
nqnlra  >  vmall  modlflcatlon.  Inetcid  of  Rnnminir  3V>  m  the  medium 
at  (be  Pole,  It  mifhl  be  more  exa«l  lo  adopt  SMO,  or  the  meitinc  poiM  or 
the  tea  o(  aea-watcr.  Uut  (lie  recent  vojiigore  have  rcKialerca  the  cold 
neat  in  advancing  nortbMrarda  u  much  mors  iuiaiuo.    It  la  ef  ideul,  how 


L. 


MattM 


>r  if  hence  maintained, 
nls  in  thfl  atmosphpre. 
!  their  direction  moill* 
!e  the  Burae  effcclH,  by 
8  course.  The  actual 
require  the  various 
)  advKnce  southwHrda 
e  of  iilinoRt  two  milen 
ect  tliree  journeys  of 
juiitor  to  either  Pole. 
he  iinpreRaiona  of  heat 
einity  of  the  Rlobo  to 
lant  play,  they  contri- 
B,  to  apread  them  gra- 
ace. 

lal  currents  leads  to  the 
emperature  in  different 
nfessor  Mayer  of  G6t- 
cal  process.  It  would 
ho  mean  temperature 
lys  proportional  to  the 
riuis,  for  the  parallels 
uigement  is  simple ; — 


llluds. 

M«an  TMnpontnr*. 

50" 

63°.6 

65 

49  .3 

60 

45  .0 

65 

41  .3 

70 

38  .1 

76 

35  .6 

BO 

33  .6 

B6 

33  .4 

90 

33  * 

I  wonld.  In  the  higher  IiUllndai, 
URnminir  S**  m  the  medium 
ipt  S(f>,  or  tho  nwItlnK  poiat  of 
iigura  have  rcKlHlurvd  tho  cold 
mluMiUd.    ltl«eTld«ul,how 


CUMATV.  If 

The  arlthmoticnl  mean,  or  68",  corresponds  to  tho 
Tiiddle  latiliiii.  of  45°;  but  tho  real  mean  of  the 
t.  .iifwrnlure  over  the  wliole  surfsico  of  tlie  globe  is 
67"^,  which  shouhl  occur  on  llin  parallel  of  36°  614'. 

The  Mvsliin  of  currents  niaintaiii^tl  in  tho  atmo- 
sphere  likewise  contributes  essentially,  by  it«  iinccas- 
mg  agen(fy  in  transfcrrinfy  and  disuersmK  heat,  to 

Erevent  the  excessive  inu<|uality  of  seasons  in  the 
igher  latitudes.  But  the  motions  produ(;ed  in  such 
a  vast  mass  of  fluid  must  evidently  follow,  at  long 
intervals,  the  accumulated  causes  which  excite  them. 
Hence  probably  the  oripn  of  those  violent  winds 
which,  succeedmg  to  the  sultry  warmth  of  summer 
and  the  sliarp  frosts  of  winter,  prevail  in  the  months 
of  September  and  March,  and  are  therefore  called 
by  seamen  the  Equinoctial  GaUi.  In  the  Arctic 
seas  nature  has  made  a  farther  provision  for  corrcet- 
inff  the  excessive  irrefn»l»rity  of  tho  action  of  the 
sun's  rays.  This  luminary,  for  several  months  in 
winter,  is  totally  withdrawn  from  that  dreary  waste ; 
but,  to  compensate  for  his  long  absence,  he  continues 
during  an  equal  period  in  summer  to  shine  without 
interruption.  Now,  from  a  beautiful  arrangement, 
the  surface  of  the  ocean  itself,  by  its  alternate 
freeiiiig  and  thawing,  presents  a  vast  substratum, 
on  which  the  excesses  of  heat  and  of  cold  in  succes- 
sion are  mutually  spent.  In  ordinary  cases,  the 
superficial  water,  as  it  cools  and  therefore  contracts, 
sinks  down  into  the  abyss  by  its  superior  gravity  { 
but  when  it  grows  warmer  it  expands,  and  conse- 
(juently  floats  incumbent,  communicating  afterward 
its  surplus  heat  with  extreme  slowness  to  the  mass 
below.  But  the  seas  within  the  Arctic  circle  being 
always  near  the  verge  of  congelation,  at  which  limit 

vnt,  that  their  thermometrtcal  obsfrratlona  muit  be  afllieted  by  dome 
latent  and  inalerial  Inncciincy.  Were  the  iin«n  temperature  of  Iha 
Arctic  tegloiM  really  below  (he  point  of  aaline  con(!Blntlon,  the  annual 
(torination  uf  Ico  in  thane  iteaii  woulil  execed  the  iiunntUy  dlaeblvod,  and 
tbnr«rni«  the  oxtcnHlon  urthe  Ihnun  AelUa  would,  cuntrary  to  liicl,  be  con 
Mwtly  progrcwiTn. 


20 


OLIHATC. 


water  scarcely  undergoes  any  sensible  alteration  of 
volume  even  from  a  considerable  change  of  tempera- 
ture, the  superficial  stratum  remains  constantly 
stagnant,  and  exposed  to  receive  all  the  variable  im- 
pressions of  the  8weepir.g  winds.  The  piercing  cold 
of  wintp;,  therefore,  spends  its  rage  in  freezing  the 
salt  water  to  a  depth  proportional  to  its  intensity 
and  continuance.*  The  prolonged  warmth  of  sum- 
mer  again  is  consumed  in  melting  those  fields  of  ice, 
every  inch  of  which  in  thickness  requiring  as  much 
absorption  of  heat  as  would  raise  the  temperature 
of  a  body  of  water  loi  feet  thick  a  whole  degree. 
ITie  summer  months  are  hence  nearly  gone  before 
the  sun  can  dissolve  the  icy  domes,  and  shoot  with 
entire  effect  his  slanting  rays.  It  may  be  shown, 
that  under  the  Pole  the  action  of  the  solar  light  is, 
at  the  time  of  the  solstice,  one-fourth  part  greater 
than  at  the  equator,  and  sufficient  in  the  course  of 
a  day  to  melt  a  sheet  of  ice  an  inch  and  a  half 
thick. 

If  horizontal  winds  serve  to  balance  the  unequi 
ajJtion  of  the  solar  beams  over  the  surface  of  the 
mobe,  the  rising  and  descending  currents  excited  m 
the  body  of  the  atmosphere  still  more  effectually 
maintain  the  equilibrium  of  day  and  night.  After 
the  ground  has  become  heated  by  the  direct  illumi- 
nation of  the  sun,  it  warms  the  lowest  portion  of  the 
incumbent  air,  which,  being  thus  dilated,  begins  to 
ascend,  and  therefore  occasions  the  descent  of  an 
equal  portion  d(  the  fluid.  But  these  vertical  cur- 
rents, being  once  created,  will  continue  their  motion 
long  after  the  primary  cause  has  ceased  to  impel 
them,  and  may  protract,  during  the  night,  the  accu- 

•  At  Melyille  Wand,  in  the  latitude  of  74°  45',  Captain  Parrrob- 
eerred  ice  to  form  of  a  tlilclinen  from  tliree  to  five  incliea,  around  Iha 
8lip'B«lde«,inthe»paceof  twenty-four  lionra;  and  In  (me  instance  it 

K  US^til'l^'SH^™  ""''r*K''"*  *"""*'  «^«nhel.'.  thennS; 
being  tlien  18°  below  zero.  Sucli  power  of  congelation,  it  might  be  com 
puted,  would  require  the  full  refHgerating  action  of  a  atnium  of  iSri 
that  limptniare,  and  nUiar  men  >Jmo«  mile  in  heifht  '•>™"  ■"* 


CLIHATfl. 


21 


sensible  alteration  of 
>le  change  of  tempera- 
remains  constantly 
re  all  the  variable  im- 
Is.  The  piercing  cold 
I  rage  in  freezing  the 
ional  to  its  intensity 
iged  warmth  of  sum- 
ing  those  fields  of  ice, 
}S8  requiring  as  much 
■aise  the  temperature 
hick  a  whole  degree. 
3e  nearly  gone  before 
omes,  and  shoot  with 
.  It  may  be  shown, 
of  the  solar  light  is, 
e-fourth  part  greater 
ent  in  the  course  of 
an  inch  and  a  half 

balance  the  unoqual 
er  the  surface  of  the 
ig  currents  excited  in 
still  more  effectually 
ay  and  night.  After 
by  the  direct  illumi- 
lowest  portion  of  the 
lus  dilated,  begins  to 
18  the  descent  of  an 
It  these  vertical  cur- 
lontinue  their  motion 
has  ceased  to  impel 
'  the  night,  the  accu- 

f  740  45',  Captain  Parry  ob- 
nee  to  five  incbea,  around  the 
onrg ;  and  In  one  instance  it 
ea,  t^Wirenlieit'a  thermometer 
r  congelation,  it  might  be  com 
action  of  a  atratun  of  air  at 
nila  in  height. 


mulation  0.'  chilled  air  on  the  surface  of  the  earth. 
Tliis  effect  i.'^  farther  augmenied,  in  general,  by  the 
fiigorific  imprisHions  which  are  at  all  times  darted 
downwards  froiii  a  clear  sky.*  By  t\w  operation  of 
this  combined  system,  therefore,  the  diurnal  vicissi- 
tudes of  temperature  are  diminished  in  the  temperate 
and  torrid  zones.  Another  consequence  results 
from  sucli  rapid  and  continual  interchange  of  the 
higher  and  lower  strata,  that  tlie  same  absolute 
quantity  of  heat  must  obtain  at  every  altitude  in  Uie 
atmosphere. 

This  equal  distribution  of  heat  at  all  elevations 
is  moulded,  however,  by  another  principle,  which 
causes  the  regular  gradation  upwards  of  a  decreasing 
temperature.  In  fact,  air  is  found  to  have  its  Capa- 
city for  heat  enlarged  by  rarefaction ;  so  that  any 
portion  of  the  fluid  carried  to  the  higher  regions, 
where  it  by  consequence  expands,  will  have  its  tem- 
perature proportionally  diminished.  The  decrease 
of  temperature  in  ascending  the  atmosphere  is  not 
far  from  being  uniform,  at  the  rate  of  about  one  de 
gree  for  every  hundred  yards  of  elevation.  Hence 
the  limit  of  perpetual  congelation  forms  a  curve, 
which  is  nearly  the  same  as  the  Cmnpanion  of  the 
Cycloid,  bending  gradaally  from  the  equator,  re- 
verting its  inflexure  at  the  latitude  of  45°,  and 
grazing  the  surface  at  the  Pole.  The  mean  heights 
of  eternal  frost,  under  the  equator,  and  at  the  lati- 
tudes of  30°  and  60°,  are  respectively  15207, 11484, 
and  3818  feet. 

.  It  is  important  to  remark,  that  the  heat  of  large 
collections  of  water  will  seldom  agree  precisely  with 
the  mean  temperature  corresponding  to  the  latitude. 
The  variable  impressions  received  at  the  surface 
from  the  atmosphere  will  not,  as  on  land,  penetrate 

•  See  Supplement  to  the  Encyclopffldla  Britannica,  toI.  111.  part  i.  p. 
m ;  or  Tranaaetiona  of  tbe  Royal  aoclety  of  Edinburgh,  toL  tIU.  i«M 
il.pk469 


ZZ  OLIXATB. 

dowly  into  the  mass,  and  become  mingled  and 
equalized  at  a  moderate  depth.  Heat  is  conducted 
through  liquids  chiefly  by  the  internal  play  result- 
mg  from  their  partial  expansion.  In  the  more  tem- 
perate regions  of  the  globe,  the  superficial  waters  of 
lakes  or  seas,  as  they  grow  warmer,  and,  therefore, 
specifically  lighter,  still  remain  suspended  by  their 
acquired  buoyancy.  But  whenever  they  come  to  be 
chilled,  they  suffer  contraction,  and  are  precipitated 
by  their  greater  density.  Hence  the  deep  water, 
both  of  lakes  and  of  seas,  is  always  considerably 
colder  than  what  floats  at  the  surface.  The  grada- 
tion of  cold  is  distinctly  traced  to  the  depth  of  twenty 
fathoms,  below  which  the  diminished  temperature 
continues  nearly  uniform  as  far  as  the  sounding- 
line  can  reach.  In  shallow  seas  however,  the  cold 
substratum  of  liquid  is  brought  nearer  to  the  top. 
The  uicreasing  coldness  of  water,  drawn  up  from 
the  depth  of  only  a  few  fathoms,  may  hence  indi- 
cate to  the  navirator  who  traverses  the  wide  ocean 
his  approach  to  banks  or  land. 

These  principles,  however,  will  not  apply  to  the 
peculiar  circumstances  of  the  Arctic  seas.  Water 
differs  essentially-,  in  its  expansion  by  heat,  from 
mercury,  oil,  or  alcohol :  far  from  dilating  uniformly, 
a  property  which  fits  the  latter  substances  for  the 
construction  of  thermometers,  it  swells  from  the 
point  of  congelation,  or  rather  a  very  few  degrees 
above  it,  with  a  rapid  progression,  to  that  of  boiling. 
Near  the  limit  of  its  greatest  contraction,  the  volume 
of  water  is  scarcely  affected  at  all  by  any  alteration 
of  heat.  When  the  surface  of  the  ocean  is  depressed 
to  a  temperature  between  28  and  44  degrees  of 
Fahrenheit's  scale,  it  will  remain  almost  stagnant, 
and  therefore  exposed  to  the  full  impression  of  ex- 
ternal cold.  Hence  the  Polar  seas  are  always  ready, 
under  the  action  of  any  frosty  wind,  to  suffer  conge* 
lation.  The  annual  variations  of  the  weather  are  in 
those  seas  expended  on  the  superficial  waters,  with 


'.  i 


CLIMATE. 


88 


lecome  mingled  and 
I.    Heat  is  conducted 

internal  play  result- 
n.  In  the  more  tem- 
i  superficial  waters  of 
armer,  and,  therefore, 
n  suspended  by  their 
lever  they  come  to  be 
I,  and  are  precipitated 
Bnce  the  deep 'water, 

always  considerably 
surface.  The  grada- 
te the  depth  of  twenty 
ninished  temperature 
far  as  the  sounding- 
sas  however,  the  cold 
lit  nearer  to  the  top. 
ater,  drawn  up  from 
>ms,  may  hence  indi- 
erses  the  wide  ocean 

will  not  apply  to  the 
Arctic  seas.  Water 
lusion  by  heat,  from 
>m  dUating  uniformly, 
ir  substances  for  the 
,  it  swells  from  the 
r  a  very  few  degrees 
on,  to  that  of  boiling, 
tntraction,  the  volume 
all  by  any  alteration 
the  ocean  is  depressed 
)  and  44  degrees  of 
ain  almost  stagnant, 
dl  impression  of  ex- 
eas  are  always  ready, 
ivind,  to  suffer  conge* 
of  the  weather  are  in 
lerficial  waters,  with 


out  disturbing  the  vast  abyss  below.  Contraiy  to 
what  takes  place  under  mOder  skies,  the  water  drawn 
up  from  a  considerable  depUi  is  often  warmer  within 
the  Arctic  circle  than  what  lies  on  the  surface.  The 
floating  ice  accordingly  begins  to  melt  generally  on 
the  under  side,  from  the  slow  communication  of  the 
heat  sent  upwards. 

These  deductions  are  confirm  ^  by  the  nice  restdts 
of  astronomical  observations.  Any  change  in  the 
temperature  of  our  globe  would  occasion  a  corres- 
ponding mutation  of  volume,  and  consequently  an 
alteration  in  the  momentum  of  the  revolving  mass. 
Thus,  if,  from  the  accession  of  heat,  the  earth  had 
gained  only  a  mUlionth  part  of  linear  expansion, 
it  would  have  required  an  increase  of  five  times  propor- 
tionally more  momentum  to  maintain  die  same  rota- 
tion. On  this  supposition,  therefore,  the  diurnal  re- 
volution would  have  been  retarded  at  the  rate  of  three 
seconds  in  a  week.  But  the  length  of  the  day  has 
certainly  not  varied  one  second  in  a  year  since  the 
age  of  Hipparchus ;  for  we  cannot  imagine  that  the 
ancient  observations  could  ever  deviate  an  hour  from 
the  truth.  We  may  hence  conclude  that,  in  the  lapse 
of  three  thousand  years,  the  mass  of  our  globe  has 
not  acouired  the  ten-millionth  part  of  expansion 
which  the  smallest  fraction  of  a  degree  of  heat  would 
have  communicated. 

Tlie  accumulation  of  ice  on  the  surface  of  the 
ocean  would  likewise  have  occasioned  a  prolongation 
of  the  length  of  the  day.  This  effect  woidd  no 
doubt  be  diminished  under  the  Arctic  circle,  from 
the  proximity  of  the  glacial  protuberance  to  the  axis ; 
but  its  influence  womd  cause  a  notable  difference. 

After  the  continued  action  of  the  sun  has  at  last 
melted  away  the  great  body  of  ice,  a  short  and  du- 
Wous  interval  of  warmth  occurs.  In  the  space  of  a 
few  weeks,  only  visited  by  slanting  and  enfeebled 
ra)rs,  frost  again  resumes  his  tremendous  sway.  It 
begins  to  snow  as  early  as  August,  and  the  whole 


S4 


OLnUTX. 


\-\ 


\^ 


Sound  18  covered,  to  the  depth  of  two  or  three  feet, 
fore  the  month  of  October.    Along  the  shores  and 
the  bays,  the  fresh  water,  poured  from  rivulets,  or 
drained  from  the  thawing  of  former  collections  of 
snow,  becomes  quickly  converted  into  solid  ice.    As 
the  cold  augments,  the  air  deposites  its  moisture  in 
tlie  form  of  a  fog,  which  freezes  into  a  fine  gossamer 
netting  or  spicular  icicles,  dispersed  through  the 
atmosphere  and  extremely  minute,  that  might  seem 
to  pierce  and  excoriate  the  skin.    The  hoar  frost  set- 
ties  profusely,  in  fantastic  clusters,  on  every  promi- 
nence.   The  whole  surface  of  the  sea  steams  like  a 
lime-kiln,— an   appearance  called  the  frost-smoke, 
caused,  as  in  other  instances  of  the  production  of 
vapour,  by  the  water's  being  still  relatively  wanner 
than  the  mcumhent  air.    At  length  the  dispersion  of 
the  mist,  and  consequent  clearness  of  the  atmosphere, 
announce  that  the  upper  stratum  of  the  sea  itself 
has  cooled  to  the  same  standard;  "    heet  of  ice 
spreads  quickly  over  the  smooth  expanse,  and  often 
gains  the  thickness  of  an  inch  in  a  single  night.    The 
dartutess  of  a  prolonged  winter  now  broods  impene- 
trably over  the  frozen  continent,  unless  the  moon 
chance  at  times  to  obtrude  her  faint  rays,  which  only 
discover  the  horrors  and  wide  desolation  of  the  scene. 
The  wretched  settlers,  covered  with  a  load  of  bear- 
skins, remain  crowded  and  immured  in  their  hut, 
every  chink  of  which  they  carefully  stop  against  the 
piercing  external  cold ;  and,  cowering  about  the  stove 
or  the  lamp,  they  seek  to  doze  away  the  tedious 
night.     Their  slender  stock  of  provisions,  though 
kept  m  the  same  apartment,  is  often  frozen  so  harf 
aa  to  require  to  be  cut  by  a  hatchet.    The  whole  of 
the  inside  of  their  hut  becomes  lined  with  a  thick 
crust  of  ice;  and,  if  they  happen  for  an  instant  to 
open  a  window,  the  moisture  of  the  confined  air  is 
immediately  precipitated  in  the  form  of  a  shower  of 
snow.    As  the  frost  continues  to  penetrate  deeper, 
the  rocks  are  heard  at  a  distance  to  split  with  loud 


♦  '. 


c. 

th  of  two  or  three  feet, 

Along  the  shores  and 

)ured  from  rivulets,  or 

former  collections  of 
rted  into  solid  ice.    As 
iposites  its  moisture  in 
;cs  into  a  fine  gossamer 
iispersed  through  the 
inute,  that  mi^t  seem 
n.    The  hoar  frost  set- 
isters,  on  every  promi- 
f  the  sea  steams  like  a 
ailed  the  frost-imoke, 
a  of  the  production  of 
still  relatively  warmer 
ength  the  dispersion  of 
less  of  the  atmosphere, 
turn  of  the  sea  itself 
idard;  "    heet  of  ice 
th  expanse,  and  often 
in  a  single  night.    The 
ir  now  broods  impene< 
ent,  unless  the  moon 
faint  rays,  which  only 
Icsolation  of  the  scene. 
1  witli  a  load  of  bear- 
mmured  in  their  hut, 
efuUy  stop  against  the 
wering  about  the  stove 
ize  away  the  tedious 
of  provisions,  though 
often  frozen  so  hard 
tchet.    The  whole  of 
s  lined  with  a  thick 
Jen  for  an  instant  to 
)f  the  confined  air  is 
!  form  of  a  shower  of 

to  penetrate  deeper, 
ace  to  split  with  loud 


OtnUTE.  24 

explosioiu.    The  sleep  of  death  seems  to  wrap  up 

the  scene  m  utter  and  oblivious  ruin.*  *^ 

Kn^KiH"^^ -S^K*""  reappears  abovo  the  horizon: 

Sn  K.-'^"*.^'™''  """«'  '^^"'^  *he  wide  waste 

Jh^fo^h^  *^°  ^^^  prospect.    By  degrees,  however, 

inn^^^U""^"?  °^.^h  ^""^  "  checked.    In  the 

month  of  May,  the  famished  inmates  venture  to  leave 

tiieir  hut,  m  quest  of  fish  on  the  margin  of  the  sea. 

As  the  sun  acquires  elevation,  his  power  is  greatlv 

mcreased.    The  snow  graduaUy  WMtes  awa?-lhe 

ice  dissolves  apace-and  vast  fragments  of  it,  de- 

oS/j?"  *1  ''^^  *I!^  undermined  beneath/pre- 

fC**^'**''®'""?^**'""  ^th  the  craillof 

thunder.    The  ocean  is  now  unbound,  and  its  icy 

dome  broken  up  with  tremendous  rupture.    The 

enormous  fields  of  ice,  thus  set  afloat,  are.  bv  the 

Z!!!l^/  winds  and  currents,  again  disseverea  and 

fi^S!^^'    ^•"^times.impeUed  in  opposite  di^ 

I  kf th^tlf rT**' "?/  ''^^'^  ^*  '»"««"«>  shock, 
lil..o  ♦«    .    °^  70rid8,-s«ffieient,  if  opposed,  to 

™lt«  n^'i.***'"''*  *°  *  ""?*"*'  *he  Proudeitmon^ 
ments  of  human  power.  It  is  impossible  to  picture 
a  situation  more  awful  than  that  of  the  poor  crew 
of  a  whaler,  who  see  their  fraU  bark  thw  fataUv 
*mi  ti      e^Peetmg  immediate  and  inevitable  dfr. 

Before  the  end  of  June,  the  shoals  of  ice  in  the 
Aretic  seas  are  commonly  divided,  scattemd  nnS 
dissipated.  ButtheatmoiherefteniS^? 
tmuaUv  damp,  and  loaded  irith  vapour.  ^SttSs 22^ 
•on  o^the  year,  a  dense  fog  genenJlycoveSX 

brejk  tlieiU.Dee  which iSfoStt^ uT •  JSSS todiSlSr'  *" 
th«peM«bl«conipomire  which  <*ir«!Wrfi«  ttSTi2^iJ^.^''«" 
vMeJ countiy ;  it wm Uh> detUi-Uto ^mS[aamlSS'^Jt 522" 
lattoo.  ud  Um  total  abKnce  of  «nlm.uid«S!.^Lyf.  "pT.f^^T^*'?^ 

c 


86 


OLIMATK. 


surface  of  the  sea,  of  a  mUder  temperature  indeed 
than  the  frost-smoke,  yet  produced  by  the  inversion 
of  the  same  cause.  The  lower  stratum  of  air,  as  it 
successively  touches  the  colder  body  of  water,  be- 
comes chilled,  and  thence  disposed  to  dcposite  its 
moisture.  Such  thick  fogs,  with  mere  gleams  of 
clear  weather,  infesting  the  northern  seas  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  summer,  render  their  navigation 
extremely  dangerous.  In  the  course  of  the  month 
of  July,  the  superficial  water  is  at  last  brought  to  an 
equilibrium  of  temperature  with  the  air,  and  the  sun 
now  shines  out  with  a  bright  and  dazzling  radiance. 
For  some  days  before  the  close  of  the  summer,  such 
excessive  heat  is  accumulated  in  the  bays  and  shel- 
tered spots,  that  the  tar  and  pitch  are  sometimes 
melted,  and  run  down  the  ship's  sides. 

Notwithstanding  the  shortness  of  the  summer  in 
fhe  high  latitudes,  the  air  on  land  becomes  often  op- 
pressively sultry.  This  excessive  heat,  being  con- 
joined with  moisture,  engenders  clouds  of  mosqui- 
toes, from  the  stings  of  which  the  Laplanders  are 
forced  to  seek  refuge  in  their  huts,  where  they  enve- 
lope themselves  in  dense  smoke.  Humidity  marks 
the  general  character  of  ihe  Arctic  regions,  which 
are  covered  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year  with 
chilling  fogs.  The  sky  seldom  appears  clear,  except 
for  a  few  weeks  in  winter,  when  the  cold  at  the  sur- 
face becomes  most  intense.  Yet  the  rigour  of  that 
season  is  not  felt  so  severely  as  the  thermometer 
would  indicate.  When  the  temperature  is  lowest, 
the  air  is  commonly  calm,  and,  therefore,  alwtracts 
less  heat  from  the  body  than  the  exposure  to  a  strong 
wind  of  much  inferior  coldness.  The  providence  of 
the  natives  series  to  mitigate  the  hardsmps  they  have 
to  suffer.  The  Esijuimaux,  on  the  approach  of  win- 
ter, cut  the  hard  ice  into  tall  square  blocks,  with 
which  they  construct  regular  spacious  domes,  con- 
nected with  other  smaller  ones,  for  the  various  pur- 
poses of  domestic  economy     They  shape  the  inside 


♦  ' 


totShmMafiaMiiixuMM/iaititna.^ 


ri. 

der  temperature  indeed 
oduced  by  the  inversion 
direr  stratum  of  air,  as  it 
rfder  body  of  water,  be- 
disposed  to  deposite  its 
S  with  mere  gleams  of 
northern  seas  during  the 

render  their  navigation 
he  course  of  the  month 
r  is  at  last  brought  to  an 
with  the  air,  and  the  sun 

and  dazzling  radiance. 
)se  of  the  summer,  such 
ed  in  the  bays  and  shel- 
id  pitch  are  sometimes 
lip's  sides. 

rtness  of  the  summer  in 
land  becomes  often  op- 
:es8ive  heat,  being  con- 
iders  clouds  of  mosqui- 
lich  the  Laplanders  are 
r  huts,  where  they  enve- 
loke.  Humidity  marks 
e  Arctic  regions,  which 
er  part  of  the  year  with 
am  appears  clear,  except 
rhen  the  cold  at  the  sur- 

Yet  the  rigour  of  that 
ely  as  the  thermometer 
I  temperature  is  lowest, 
and,  therefore,  abstracts 
the  exposure  to  a  strong 
ess.  The  providence  of 
!  the  hardships  they  have 
on  the  approach  of  win- 
all  square  blocks,  with 
LT  spacious  domes,  con- 
ies, for  the  various  pur- 

They  shape  the  inside 


OLIMATIE. 


27 


With  care,  and  give  It  an  even,  glossy  surface  by  the 
affusion  of  water.  The  snowy  wall  soon  becomes 
a  solid  concrete  mass,  which,  being  a  slow  conductor, 
checks  the  access  of  cold,  while  it  admits  a  sufficient 
portion  of  liglit.  It  may  also  be  remarked,  that  the 
external  darkness  prevails  only  during  a  part  of  the 
day.  Since  twilight  obtains  whenever  the  sun  is 
less  depressed  than  18  denrrees  below  the  horizon,  the 
limits  of  entire  obscuration  occur  in  the  latitudes  of 
84i»  and  484°;  in  the  former  at  midday  in  the  win- 
ter solstice,  and  in  the  latter  at  midnight  in  the  sol- 
stice of  sunmer.  Between  these  extremes  the  at- 
mosphere at  the  opposite  seasons  glows  to  a  greater 
or  a  less  extent,  from  the  middle  of  the  day  or  of 
the  night.  Accordingly,  Captain  Pany's  party, 
during  their  detention  at  Melville  Island,  in  the  lati- 
tude of  74°  40',  found,  that  in  clear  weather,  about 
noon,  they  could  easily,  in  the  depth  of  winter,  read 
the  smallest  print  on  deck.  This  position  corres- 
ponds to  the  alternating  parallel  01^68°  80',  which 
nearly  reaches  Orkney,  where  the  transparency  of 
the  nights  in  the  height  of  summer  is  well  known. 
The  approach  of  twilight  is,  besides,  advanced  in  the 
frozen  regions  by  the  superior  refractive  power  of  a 
very  dense  atmosphere.  The  horizontal  refraction 
usually  raises  the  lower  limb  of  the  sun  and  moon 
about  the  twelfth  part  of  their  diameters,  and  often 
pves  it  a  wavy  and  fantastic  outline.  Hence  the 
reappearance  of  those  luminaries  is  hastened  within 
the  Arctic  circle,  though  the  quantity  of  anticipation 
has  been  much  exaggerated. 

The  ice  which  obstructs  the  navigation  of  the 
Arctic  seas  consists  of  two  very  different  kinds ;  the 
one  produced  by  the  congelation  of  fresh,  and  the 
other  by  that  of  salt  water.  In  those  inhospitable 
tracts,  the  snow  which  annually  falls  on  the  islands 
or  contuients,  being  again  dissolved  by  the  progress 
of  the  summer's  heat,  pours  forth  numerous  lills  and 
limpid  streams,  which  collect  along  the  indented 


t8 


CLIMATK. 


shorei,  and  in  the  deep  bays  enclosed  by  precipitous 
rocks.  There,  this  clear  and  gelid  water  soon 
freezes,  and  every  successive  year  supplies  an  addi> 
tional  investing  crust,  till,  after  the  lapse,  perhaps,  of 
several  centuries,  the  icy  mass  rises  at  last  to  the 
size  and  aspect  of  a  mountain,  commensurate  with 
the  elevation  of  the  adjoining  cliffs.  The  melting 
of  the  snow,  which  is  afterward  deposited  on  such 
enormous  blocks,  likewise  contributes  to  their 
growth;  and,  by  filUng  up  the  accidental  holes  or 
crevices,  it  renders  the  whole  structure  compact  and 
imiform.  Meanwhile,  the  principle  of  destruction 
has  ahready  begun  its  operations.  The  ceaseless 
agitation  of  the  sea  gradually  wears  and  undermines 
the  base  of  the  icy  mountain,  till,  at  length,  by  the 
action  of  its  own  accumulated  weight,  when  it  has 
perhaps  attained  an  altitude  of  a  thousand,  or  even 
two  thousand  feet,  it  is  torn  from  its  frozen  chains, 
and  precipitated,  with  tremendous  plunge,  uito  the 
abyss  below.  This  mighty  launch  now  floats  like  a 
loity  island  on  the  ocean;  till,  driven  southwards  by 
winds  and  currents  it  insensibly  wastes  and  dissolves 
away  in  Uie  wide  Atlantic. 

Such  I  conceive,  to  be  the  real  origin  of  the  icy 
mountains  or  tce&er^*,  entirely  similar  in  their  forma- 
tion to  the  ff/octerf  which  occur  on  the  flanks  of  the 
Alps  and  the  Ihrrenees.  They  consist  of  a  cleari 
compact,  and  solid  ice,  which  has  the  fine  green  tint 
vergmg  to  blue,  which  ice  or  water,  when  very  pure 
and  of  a  sufficient  dei^h,  always  assumes.  From 
the  cavities  of  these  icebergs,  the  crews  of  the 
northern  whalers  are  accustomed,  by  means  of  a 
hoM,  or  flexible  tube  of  canvass,  to  fill  their  casks 
easily  with  the  finest  and  softest  water.  Of  the 
same  species  of  ice,  the  fragments  which  are  picked 
up  as  they  float  on  the  surface  of  the  ocean  yield  the 
adventurous  navigator  the  r  >8t  refreshing  beverage.* 

*  The  water  wbieh  flows  IVom  thoae  Arctic  glaclen  beoomM  thnwa 
•■lin  on  Ow  sppnwcbor  winiar,  «nd  Ibmw  along  tbe  coaM  a  thick  ati»> 


mmmtim 


inclosed  by  precipitous 
Lnd  gelid  water  soon 
year  supplies  an  addi- 
!r  the  lapse,  perhaps,  of 
Bs  rises  at  last  to  the 
in,  commensurate  with 
g  cliffs.  The  melting 
ard  deposited  on  such 
contributes  to  their 
iie  accidental  holes  or 
structure  compact  and 
inciple  of  destruction 
itions.  The  ceaseless 
wears  and  undermines 
1,  till,  at  length,  by  the 
d  weight,  when  it  has 
of  a  thousand,  or  even 
from  its  frozen  chains, 
idous  plunge,  into  the 
lunch  now  floats  like  a 
,  driven  southwards  by 
iy  wastes  and  dissolves 

I  real  origin  of  the  icy 
similar  in  their  forma- 
ar  on  the  flanks  of  the 
ey  consist  of  a  cleari 
has  the  fine  green  tint 
water,  when  very  pure 
vays  assumes.  From 
;s,  the  crews  of  the 
)med,  by  means  of  a 
)8S,  to  All  their  casks 
Dftest  water.  Of  the 
tents  which  are  picked 
of  the  ocean  yield  the 
t  refreshing  beverage.* 

.rctie  glaclsn  beoomM  ftoua 
u  along  Um  eosM  k  thick  iti^ 


WW^BtMBS^SBS^'i?ii^i^K^SSiu',ViSi-:mc-imii^,t-,,'^ 


Ic«bergi.^-{p.  28.] 


.  J 


otnATi.  19 

Tt  vna  long  diiputed  amongr  »»»•  learned,  whether 
the  waters  of  the  ocean  are  capable  of  beinir  con- 
gealcdj  and  many  frivolous  and  absurd  ?rimment>. 
of  course,  were  advanced  to  prove  the  impossibility 
of  the  fact.    But  the  question  is  now  completely 

mIS.  I'll .i!"u  ^^t  '■'^^^•"«  °f  sea-water  is  estii 
Wished  both  by  observation  and  experiment.    The 
product,  however,  is  an  imperfect  sort  of  ico,  easily 
distinguishable  from  the  result  of  a  regular  crystaU 
mation :  it  is  porous,  incompact,  and  imperfectly 
diaphanous.    It  consists  of  spicular  shootsT  or  thin 
nakes,  which  detain  within  their  interstices   the 
stronger  brme;  and  its  graniUar  spongy  texture  has. 
in  fact,  the  appearance  of  congealed  syrup,  or  what 
the  confectioners  call  water-ice.    This  saline  ice  can. 
therefore,  never  yield  pure  water;  yet,  if  the  stronir 
bnne  imprisoned  in  it  be  first  suffered  to  drain  off 
?.S  w^V  ,?  ^^^  y,^'  ^^^^  remains  will  melt  into  a 
pSabie  •     "   '  *"  '^™°  ""'*''  ""^  ^  deemed 

To  congeal  sea-water  of  the  ordinary  saltness,  or 
tontaming  nearly  the  thirtieth  part  of  its  weight  of 
aaline  matter,  it  requires  not  an  extreme  cold :  this 
process  takmg  effect  about  the  27th  degree  on  Fah- 
renheit's  scale,  or  only  five  degrees  below  the  freez- 
mg-pomt  of  fresh  water.  Within  the  Arctic  circle, 
therefore,  the  surface  of  the  ocean  being  never  much 
warmer,  is,  m  the  decline  of  the  summer,  soon  cooled 
down  to  the  limit  at  which  congelation  commences. 
About  the  end  of  July,  or  the  beginning  of  August. 
a  sheet  of  ice,  perhaps  an  inch  thick,  is  formed  in  the 

s*.Mi!i";;,si?.  '"•  ^'^'^  ■»  •""  •*""' ««"« «h«  rt.  M  ton  ft« 

tJu'V^  ^y^  wmuked,  tbat  Uis  raperfleial  water  nev  iMltiii* 

•irtythe««)Uii)«rtorit«weiihlof  ealt;  but  untier  ten  ftSiellS^woI 
wtB^.   The  Uablo  bw  ef  tea-water  waalbund  to  hold  the  IJSth  put 

C8 


•9  oiniATi. 

■|»c«  of  II  singlfl  night.  The  flroct  now  maintainii 
Moendency,  and  ihoot*  its  increuing  energy  in  all 
direction*,  till  it  has  covered  the  whole  extent  of 
those  seas  with  a  solid  vault  to  the  depth  of  sevi  id 
feet.  Uut,  on  the  return  of  spring,  the  penetrating 
rays  of  the  sun  gradually  melt  or  soften  that  icy 
floor,  and  render  its  substance  friable  and  easily  dis> 
ruptcd.  The  first  strong  wind,  creating  a  swell  in 
the  ocean,  then  breaks  up  the  vast  continent  into 
large  fields,  wliich  are  afterward  shivered  into  frag« 
ments  by  their  mutual  collision.  This  generally 
happens  early  in  the  month  of  June;  and  a  few 
weeks  are  commonly  sufficient  to  disperse  and  dis- 
solve the  floating  ice.  The  soa  is  at  lost  open,  for  a 
short  and  dubious  interval,  to  the  pursuits  of  the  ad< 
venturous  mariner. 

While  icebergs  are  thus  the  slow  growth  of  ages, 
the  fields  or  shoals  of  saline  ice  are  annually  formed 
and  destroyed.  The  ice  generated  from  melted  snow 
is  hard,  pellucid,  and  often  swells  to  enormous  height 
and  dimensions.  But  the  concretion  of  salt  water 
wants  solidity,  clearness,  and  strength,  and  never 
rises  to  any  very  considerable  thickness.  It  seldom 
floats  during  more  than  part  of  the  year ;  thongh,  in 
some  cold  season,  the  scattered  fragments  may  be 
surprised  by.  the  early  frost,  and  preserved  tUl  the 
following  summer. 

The  whale-fishers  enumerate  several  varieties  of 
the  salt-water  ice.  A  very  wide  expanse  of  it  they 
call  ^JUld,  and  one  of  smaller  dimensions  ajlot. 
When  a  field  is  dissevered  by  a  subaqueous  or  grown 
swell,  it  breaks  into  numerous  pieces,  seldom  ex- 
ceedin^  forty  or  fifty  yards  in  diameter,  which,  taken 
collectively,  are  termed  a  pack.  Tliis  pack  again, 
when  of  a  broad  shape,  is  called  a  patch ;  and,  when 
much  elongated,  a  stream.  The  packs  of  ice  are 
crowded  and  heaped  together  by  violent  winds ;  but 
they  again  separate  and  spread  asunder  in  calm 
weather.    If  a  ship  can  sail  freely  through  the  float* 


■MM 


iWMt  now  maintaitui 
loreaainff  energy  in  all 

the  whole  extent  of 
to  the  depth  of  itevi  lal 
springy,  the  penntratiag 
elt  or  soften  that  icy 

friable  and  easily  dis> 
id,  creating  a  swell  in 
16  vast  continent  into 
ixd  shivered  into  tng- 
ision.    This  generally 

of  4une{  and  a  few 
int  to  disperse  and  dis« 
Da  is  at  lust  open,  for  a 
the  pursuits  of  the  ad< 

}  slow  growth  of  ages, 
ae  are  annually  formed 
atod  from  melted  snow 
lU  to  enormous  heigiit 
ncretion  of  salt  water 
d  strength,  and  never 
I  thickness.  It  seldom 
)f  the  year ;  though,  in 
red  fragments  maybe 
and  preserved  tUl  the 

te  several  varieties  of 
ide  expanse  off  it  they 
Her  dimensions  a  floe. 
a  subaqueous  or  frown 
us  pieces,  seldom  ex- 
diameter,  which,  taken 
ck.  This  pack  again, 
ed  a  patch ;  and,  when 
The  packs  of  ice  are 
by  violent  winds ;  but 
read  asunder  in  calm 
:eely  through  the  float* 


CUMATB.  tt 

ingiriecesof  io«,  it  is  called  dr^ft-iet:  and  the  ice 
itself  is  said  to  be  Zoom  or  opm.  When,  from  the 
effect  of  abrasion,  the  larger  blocks  of  ico  are  crum- 
bled into  minute  fragments,  this  collection  is  ceiled 
In-ath-ice.  A  portion  of  ice  rising  above  the  common 
level  is  termed  a  hummock,  being  produced  bv  the 
squeezing  of  one  piece  over  anouicr.  Tiiese  lium- 
mockp  or  protubcrunccs  break  the  unifonn  surface 
of  the  ice,  and  give  it  a  most  diven<iflo(I  and  funtaHtic 
appearance.  They  are  numerous  in  the  heavy  pucks, 
and  along  the  edges  of  iee-Aelds,  reaching  to  the 
height  of  tliirty  feet.  The  term  sludge  is  applie<l  bv 
the  sailors  to  the  soft  and  incoherent  crystals  whicli 
the  frost  forms  when  it  Arst  attacks  the  ruffled  sur- 
face of  the  ocean.  As  these  increase,  they  have 
some  eflcct,  like  oil,  to  still  the  secondary  waves ;  but 
they  are  prevented  from  coalescing  into  a  continuous 
sheet,  by  the  agitation  which  still  prevails;  and  they 
form  small  discs,  rounded  by  continual  attrition, 
and  scarcely  three  inches  in  diameter,  called  pari' 
cak€i.  Sometimes  these  again  unite  into  circular 
pieces,  perhaps  a  foot  thick,  and  many  yai'ls  in  cir- 
cumference. 

The  fields  and  other  collections  cf  iloating  ice  are 
often  discovered  at  a  great  distance,  by  that  singular 
appearance  on  the  verge  of  the  horizon,  which  the 
Dutch  seamen  have  tenned  ice-blitik.  It  is  ti  stratum 
of  lucid  whiteness,  occasioned  evidently  by  tlic  irlare 
of  light  reflected  oblic^uely  from  the  surface  ui  the 
ice  against  the  opposite  atmosphere.  This  shining 
streak,  which  looks  always  brightest  in  clear  weather, 
indicates,  to  the  experienced  navigator,  20  or  30 
miles  beyond  he  limit  of  direct  vision,  not  only  the 
extent  and  figure,  but  even  the  quality  of  the  ice. 
The  blink  from  packs  of  ice  appears  of  a  pure  white, 
while  that  which  is  occasioned  by  snow-fields  has 
some  tinge  of  yellow. 

The  mountams  of  hard  and  perfect  ice  arc  the 
gradual  production,  perhaps,  of  many  contune»i 


I 


33 


CLmATE. 


Along  the  western  coast  of  Greenland,  prolonjred 
into  Davis's  Strait,  they  form  an  immense  rampart, 
which  presents  to  the  mariner  a  sublime  spectacle, 
resembling,  at  a  distance,  whole  groups  of  churches, 
mantling  castles,  or  fleets  under  full  sail.  Every 
year,  but  especially  in  hot  seasons,  they  are  partially 
detached  from  their  seats,  and  whelmed  into  the 
deep  sea.  In  Davis's  Strait  those  icebergs  appear 
the  most  frequent :  and  about  Disco  Bay,  where  the 
soundings  exceed  300  fathoms,  masses  of  such  enor- 
mous dimensions  are  met  with,  that  the  Dutch  seamen 
compare  them  to  cities,  and  often  bestow  on  them 
the  familiar  names  of  Amsterdam  or  Haerlem.  They 
are  carried  towards  the  Atlantic  by  the  current  which 
generally  flows  from  the  north-east,  and  after  they 
Teach  the  wanner  water  of  the  lower  latitudes  they 
."apidly  dissolve,  and  finally  disappear,  probably  in 
the  space  of  a  few  months. 

The  blocks  of  fresh-water  ice  appear  black  as  they 
float;  but  show  a  fine  emerald  or  beryl  hue  when 
brought  up  on  the  deck.    Though  perfectly  transpa- 
rent  like  crystal,  they  sometimes  enclose  threads  or 
streamlets  of  air-bubbles,  extricated  in  the  act  of 
congelation.    This  pure  ice,  being  only  a  fifteenth 
part  lighter  than  fresh  water,  must  consequently 
project  about  one-tenth  as  it  swims  on  the  sea.    An 
iceberg  of  2000  feet  in  height  would  therefore,  after 
it  floated,  still  rise  200  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
water.    Such,  perhaps,  may  be  considered  as  nearly 
the  extreme  dimensions.    Those  mountains  of  ice 
may  even  acquire  more  elevation  at  a  distance  from 
land,  both  from  the  snow  which  falls  on  them,  and 
from  the  copious  vapours  which  precipitate  and  con- 
geal on  their  surface.    But  in  general  they  are  carried 
forward  by  the  current  which  sets  from  the  north- 
east  into  the  Atlantic,  where,  bathed  in  a  warmer 
fluid,  they  rapidly  waste  and  dissolve.    It  may  be 
shown  by  experiment,  that  if  the  water  in  which 
they  float  had  only  the  temperature  of  42o,  the  mass 


1 


reenland,  prolonged 
a  immense  rampart, 
a  sublime  spectacle, 
groups  of  churches, 
er  full  sail.  Every 
18,  they  are  partially 
I  whelmed  into  the 
)se  icebergs  appear 
isco  Bay,  where  the 
lasses  of  such  enor- 
at  the  Dutch  seamen 
en  bestow  on  them 
or  Haerlem.  They 
)y  the  current  which 
east,  and  after  they 
ower  latitudes  they 
ippear,  probably  in 

ippear  black  as  they 
or  beryl  hue  when 
1  perfectly  transpa- 
enclose  threads  or 
ited  in  the  act  of 
ig  only  a  fifteenth 
nust  consequently 
ns  on  the  sea.    An 
uld  therefore,  after 
the  surface  of  the 
msidered  as  nearly 
mountains  of  ice 
at  a  distance  from 
Palls  on  them,  and 
recipitate  and  con- 
ral  they  are  carried 
s  from  the  north- 
thed  in  a  warmer 
solve.    It  may  be 
e  water  in  which 
e  of  420,  the  mass 


CLIMATE. 


33 


of  ice  would  lose  the  thickness  of  an  inch  every 
hour,  or  two  feet  in  a  day.  Supposing  the  surface 
of  the  sea  to  be  at  52^,  the  daily  diminution  of  thick- 
ness would  be  doubled,  and  would  therefore  amount 
to  four  feet.  An  iceberg  having  600  ffet  of  total 
elevation  would  hence,  on  this  probable  estimate, 
require  150  days  for  its  dissolution.  But  the  melting 
of  the  ice  would  be  greatly  accelerated  if  the  mass 
were  impelled  through  the  water  by  the  action  o£* 
winds.  A  velocity  oi  only  a  mile  in  an  hour  would 
triple  the  ordinary  effect.  Hence,  though  large 
bodies  of  ice  are  often  found  near  the  banks  of  New- 
foundland, they  seldom  advance  farther,  or  pass 
beyond  the  48th  degree  of  latitude.  Within  the 
Arctic  regions  those  stupendous  blocks  remain,  by 
their  mere  inertia,  so  fixed  on  the  water,  as  com- 
monly to  serve  for  the  mooring  of  vessels  employed 
in  the  whale-fishery.  In  such  cases,  however,  it  is  a 
necessary  precaution  to  lengthen  the  cables,  and  ride 
at  some  distance  from  the  frozen  cliff;  because  the 
fragments  of  ice,  which  the  seamen  term  calves,  are 
frequently  detached  from  the  under  part  of  the  mass, 
and,  darting  upwards,  acquire  such  a  velocity  in 
their  ascent,  that  they  wotdd  infallibly  strike  holes 
into  the  ship's  bottom. 

The  ice  produced  from  salt  water  is  whitish,  po- 
rous, and  dmost  opaque.  It  is  so  dense,  from  the 
quantity  of  strong  brine  enclosed  in  its  substance, 
that,  when  floating  m  the  sea,  it  projects  only  one- 
fiftieth  part  above  the  surface.  The  porous  saljne 
ice  has  a  variable  thickness,  yet  seldom  exceeding 
six  feet.  But  this  saline  ice  which,  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  year  covers  the  Arctic  seas,  is 
annually  formed  and  destroyed ;  a  small  portion  of 
it  only,  and  at  certain  seasons,  escaping  tne  general 
wreck.  The  thaw  commonly  lasts  about  three 
months ;  and  during  that  time  the  heat  of  the  solar 
rays,  which,  though  oblique,  yet  act  with  unceasing 
enetgy,  whether  applied  directly  or  through  the  inter* 


m 


34 


CLIMATE. 


vention  of  the  air  oi  the  water,  is  sufficient  for  the 
dissolution  of  all  the  ice  produced  in  the  course  of 
the  autumn,  the  winter,  and  the  spring.  It  may  be 
proved  by  experiment  that,  under  the  Pole  itself,  the 
power  of  the  sun  at  the  solstice  could,  in  the  space 
of  a  week,  melt  a  stratum  of  five  inches  of  ice.  We 
may  hence  fairly  compute  the  annual  effect  to  be 
sufficient  for  thawing  to  the  depth  of  forty  inches. 
It  should  likewise  be  observed,  that,  owing  to  the 
pre  vaihng  haziness  of  the  atmosphere  in  the  northern 
latitudes,  those  singular  cold  emanations  which 
always  dart  from  an  azure  sky,  and  in  the  more  tem- 
perate climates  diminish  the  calorific  action  of  the 
sun  often  by  one-fifth  part,  can  scarcely  exist.  On 
this  account,  perhaps  the  estimate  of  the  annual  de- 
struction of  Polar  ice  may  be  swelled  to  a  thickness 
of  four  feet, 

As  heat  is  absorbed  in  the  process  of  thawing,  so 
It  18  again  evolved  in  the  act  of  congelation.    The 
annual  formation  and  destruction  of  ice  withm  th« 
Arctic  circle,  is  hence  a  beautiful  provision  of  Nature 
for  mitigating  the  excessive  inequality  of  tempera- 
ture.   Had  only  dry  land  been  there  opposed  to  the 
sun,  it  would  have  been  absolutely  scorched  by  his 
mcessant  beams  in  summ.  r,  and  pinched  in  the  dark- 
ness of  winter  by  the  most  intense  and  penetrating 
cold.    None  of  the  animal  or  vegetable  tribes  could 
have  at  all  supported  such  extremes.    But  in  the  ac- 
tual arrangement,  the  surplus  heat  of  summer  is 
spent  in  melting  away  the  ice ;  and  its  deficiency  in 
winter  is  partly  supplied  by  the  influence  of  the  pro- 
gress  of  congelation.   As  long  as  ice  remains  to  thaw 
or  water  to  freeze,  the  temperature  of  the  atmos- 
phere can  never  vary  beyond  certain  limits.    Such 
IS  the  harmony  of  the  system ;  and  all  experience 
and  observation  forbid  us  to  believe  it  to  be  subject 
to  any  radical  change.    Some  years  may  chance  to 
form  more  ice  than  others,  or  to  melt  more  away  t 
out  It  were  idle  to  expect  any  thina  like  a  general  or 


iiimiMiw 


__^ 


CLIMATE. 


80 


r,  is  sufficient  for  the 
need  in  the  course  of 
iie  spring.  It  may  be 
der  the  Pole  itself,  the 
ce  could,  in  the  space 
ve  inches  of  ice.  We 
D  annual  effect  to  be 
iepth  of  forty  inches. 
3d,  that,  owing  to  the 
•sphere  in  the  northern 
d  emanations  which 
',  and  in  the  more  tem- 
salorific  action  of  the 
a  scarcely  exist.  On 
late  of  the  annual  de- 
swelled  to  a  thickness 

rocess  of  thawing,  so 
of  congelation.    The 
ion  of  ice  within  th« 
il  provision  of  Nature 
lequality  of  tempera- 
there  opposed  to  the 
utely  scorched  by  his 
d  pinched  in  the  dark- 
ense  and  penetrating 
iregetable  tribes  could 
emes.    But  in  the  ac- 
heat  of  summer  is 
and  its  deficiency  in 
influence  of  the  pro- 
s  ice  remains  to  thaw 
rature  of  the  atmos- 
;ertain  limits.    Such 
;  and  all  experience 
ieve  it  to  be  subject 
years  may  chance  to 
o  melt  more  awayt 
lins  like  a  general  or 


permanent  disruption  of  the  facial  crust  which  binds 
the  regions  of  the  north.  Even  were  this  ice  once 
removed,  a  similar  collection  woidd  soon  succeed, 
since  it  is  always  the  effect,  and  not  the  cause,  of  the 
disposition  of  tne  atmosphere,  which  it  really  serves 
to  temper.  We  should  be  guilty  of  the  most  vicious 
reasoning  in  a  circle,  if  we  maintained  that  ice  first 
cooled  the  air,  and  that  this  cold  air  next  increased 
the  fields  of  ice. 

^  But,  whatever  maybe  the  vicissitudes  of  the  Polar 
ice,  they  cannot,  in  any  sensible  manner,  affect  the 
climates  of  the  lower  latitudes.  The  whole  circum- 
jacent space  where  frost  holds  his  reign,  bears  a  very 
small  proportion  to  the  surface  of  the  northern 
hemisphere.  Reckoning  from  the  parallel  of  sixty 
degrees,  it  would  not  exceed  the  eighth  part ;  but, 
since  the  gelid  region  hardly  extends  below  the  lati- 
tude of  seventy-five  degrees,  it  may  be  stated  at  the 
thirty-second  part  of  the  hemisphere.  On  the  sup- 
position, therefore,  that  the  Arctic  cold  were  ^1 
transferred  and  infused  into  the  atmosphere  of  the 
south,  it  could  yet  produce  no  visible  alteration  of 
climate. 

Even  if  we  imagined  with  Mr.  Scoresby,  that, 
during  the  years  1816  and  1817,  two  thousand  square 
leagues  of  ice  have  disappeared  in  the  Greenland 
seas  between  the  parallels  of  seventy-four  and  eighty 
degrees,  this  extent  would  still  scarcely  exceed  half 
the  surface  of  Ireland.  It  may  be  calculated,  that 
the  loss  of  heat  on  our  globe,  occasioned  by  a  total 
eclipse  of  the  sun,  reckoning  this  only  equivalent  to 
a  complete  obsciutition  for  the  space  of  a  single  hour,  is 
as  much  as  would  be  absorbed  by  the  thawing  of  a  cir- 
cle of  ice  500  miles  in  diameter,  and  130  feet  thick. 
This  quantity  surpasses  at  least  sixty  times  the  ice- 
fields dispersed  from  Greenland,  allowing  them  the 
mean  thickness  of  thirty  feet ;  and  yet  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  air  is  never  depressed  more  than  a  degree 
or  two  during  the  continuance  of  any  solar  edipse. 


86 


CUMATK. 


But  the  idea  is  quite  chimerical,  that  any  winds 
could  ti  ver  transport  the  Polar  influence  to  our  shores. 
It  may  be  proved,  from  the  results  of  accurate  ex- 
periment, that  a  ciurent  of  air  flowing  over  a  warmei 
surface,  whether  of  land  or  water,  becomes,  in  the 
«pace  of  an  hour,  penetrated  with  the  same  temps- 
rature  through  a  stratum  of  eighty  feet;  though  the 
jmit  of  actual  contact,  or  of  mutual  attrition,  is  con- 
Sned  to  a  surface  not  exceeding  the  500th  part  of  an 
Inch  in  thickness.    If  we  assign  to  it  the  height  of 
1  mile,  wliich  is  a  most  ample  allowance,  it  would 
ose  all  its  sharpness,  and  acquire  the  standard  heat 
n  the  course  of  sixty-six  hours.    Admitting  this 
rind  to  travel  at  the  rate  even  of  twenty  miles  each 
lour,  it  would  consequently  spend  all  its  frigorific 
Action  in  a  tract  of  1380  miles.    The  gales  from  the 
lemotest  north  must  thus  discharge  their  store  of 
itold  into  the  German  Sea  or  the  Atlantic  Ocean.    Nor 
could  such  impressions,  though  continued  through  a 
course  of  ages,  have  the  smallest  power  to  chill  the 
superficial  water ;  for  the  moment  any  portion  of  this 
was  cooled,  it  would,  from  its  increased  density,  sink 
down  into  the  vast  abyss.    The  surface  would  not 
be  affscted  till  after  the  cooling  had,  in  its  progress, 
pervaded  the  whole  mass  from  the  bottom  upwards. 
According  to  the  calculations  of  Laplace,  founded  on 
a  comparison  of  the  theory  of  tides  with  actual  ob. 
servation,  the  mean  depth  of  the  ocean  exceeds  ten 
English  miles.    Supposmg,  therefore,  a  wind  blowing 
from  some  northerly  point,  and  ten  degrees  colder 
than  the  water,  were  to  sweep  over  the  Atlantic  six 
months  every  year,  at  the  rate  of  fifteen  miles  an 
hour,  it  would  take  220  years  to  cool  that  vast  body 
of  water  only  a  single  degree. 

Some  persons  have  imagined  that  the  mountains 
or  islands  of  ice,  which  are  occasionally  drifted  into 
the  Atlantic  Ocean,  must  be  sufllcient,  by  their  frigo- 
rific influence,  to  modify  the  character  of  our  climate. 
One  of  the  first  who  advanced  that  opinion  was  dts 


B. 

nerica],  that  any  winds 
influence  to  our  shores, 
results  of  accurate  ex- 
■  flowing  over  a  wannei 
water,  becomes,  in  the 
with  the  same  temp:- 
iighty  feet;  though  the 
mutual  attrition,  is  con- 
ng  the  500th  part  of  an 
ign  to  it  the  height  of 
lie  allowance,  it  would 
|uire  the  standard  heat 
lours.    Admitting  this 
1  of  twenty  miles  each 
spend  all  its  frigorific 
).    The  gales  from  the 
scharge  their  store  of 
e  Atlantic  Ocean.    Nor 
rh  continued  through  a 
lest  power  to  chill  the 
lent  any  portion  of  this 
increased  density,  sink 
rhe  surface  wotdd  not 
ig  had,  in  its  progress, 
n  the  bottom  upwards, 
uf  Laplace,  founded  on 
r  tides  with  actual  ob> 
the  ocean  exceeds  ten 
jrefore,  a  wind  blowing 
nd  ten  degrees  colder 
)  over  the  Atlantic  six 
te  of  fifteen  miles  an 
to  cool  that  vast  body 

id  that  the  mountains 
casionally  drifted  into 
ifficient,  by  their  frigo* 
aracter  of  our  climate. 
1  that  opinion  was  dM 


OLDIATX.  tr 

ingenious  Richard  Bradley,  fellow  of  the  Royal  So- 
ciety, and  professor  of  botany  in  the  university  of 
Cambridge.  In  "A  Survey  of  the  Ancient  Hus- 
bandry and  Gardeninio:,  collected  from  the  Greek  and 
Roman  Writers,"  printed  in  octavo  at  London  in 
17S6,  he  introduces  the  following  remarkable  pas- 
sage:— 

"  I  the  rather  mention  the  case  of  winds  becoming 
cold  by  mixinif  with  the  effluvia  of  snow  or  ice,  be- 
cause I  have  made  some  remarks  upon  the  tempest- 
nous  weather,  which  often  happens  about  the  end  of 
May,  or  in  June,  which  has  in  all  my  observations 
been  brought  in  by  westerly  winds ;  and  again,  I  as 
surely  find,  that  at  such  times  large  islands  of  ice  and 
snow  are  passing  to  the  southward  in  the  Western 
Ocean,  as  I  have  been  informed  by  several  captains 
of  ships  that  were  then  coming  from  our  plantations 
to  England.  Some  of  these  i^ands  are  so  large  as 
to  measure  sixty  miles  in  length,  and  jrielding  so 
great  a  vapour,  that  for  a  day's  voyage  on  one  side  of 
them,  the  weather  has  been  so  hazy  that  the  mari- 
ners could  not  discover  what  they  were ;  and  this 
was  accompanied  with  so  much  cold,  that  they  ima- 
gined they  tiad  mistaken  in  their  accounts,  and  got 
several  degrees  too  far  towards  the  north ;  but  a  day 
or  two  explained  the  matter,  and  gave  them  an  op- 
portunity of  surveying  what  they  had  been  so  much 
Biirprised  at.  Now,  considering  the  extraordinary 
heat  of  the  sun  at  the  season  these  appear,  the  va- 
pour must  be  very  considerable  that  rises  from  them ; 
and  it  is  no  wonaer  then,  that,  as  it  expands  itself,  it 
presses  the  air  with  violence  enough  to  cause  tem- 
pests and  carry  cold  along  witli  it." 

But  a  little  reflection  will  convince  us  that  such 
remote  influence  on  our  climate  must  be  quite  insig- 
nificant. At  a  very  wide  estimation,  the  surface 
of  ice  exposed  to  the  winds  could  never  exceed  the 
thousandth  part  of  the  whole  expanse  of  the  Atlantic 
Ocean :  consequently  the  general  temperature  of  the 
D 


88 


CLIMATE. 


air  would  not  be  altered  the  fortieth  part  of  a  degree. 
Nor  could  this  minute  impression  be  wafted  to  our 
shores,  being  invariably  spent  in  the  length  of  the 
voyage.  The  opinion  which  Mr.  Bradley  entertained 
near  a  hundred  years  ago  might  have  been  tolerated 
m  the  infancy  of  physicnl  science  5  but  that  the  same 
notion  should  be  revived,  and  proclaimed  with  con- 
fidence at  this  day,  may  well  excite  surprise. 

These  reasonings,  which  suggested  themselves  on 
the  occasion  of  the  sailing  of  the  first  expedition  sent 
by  government  to  explore  the  Arctic  seas,  have  been 
hingul-u-ly  confirmed  by  tLa  results  of  the  late 
danng  voyages.  Captam  Parry,  by  the  most  vigi . 
lant  exertions,  indeed,  succeeded,  during  the  brief 
interval  of  an  open  season,  to  advance  from  Baflin's 
Bay,  by  Lancaster  Sound,  above  400  miles  west- 
ward, through  floatuig  masses  of  ice,  on  the  pa- 
rallel of  75  degrees;  but  this  distance  is  probably 
not  the  third  part  of  the  whole  space  between  the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans.  All  the  subsequent  at- 
tempts of  that  able  navigator  to  penetrate  any  farther 
in  the  same  direction  have  proved  unsuccessful ;  and 
his  last  arduous  scheme  of  reaching  the  Pole,  by 
dragging  boats  over  an  expanse  of  rough  and  broken 
ice,  utterly  failed.  The  utmost  labour  and  incited 
exertions  of  the  crews  scarcely  enabled  him  to  pro- 
ceed,  in  1827,  three  degrees  northward  from  Spitz- 
bergen,  and  attain  the  latitude  of  82°  45',  not  far  be- 
yond the  usual  resort  of  the  Greenland  whalers. 
Captain  Weddell,  without  the  stimulant  of  national 
reward,  had,  four  years  before,  the  resolution  to 
penetrate  to  a  very  great  height  in  the  opposite  hemi- 
sphere, which  is  always  considered  colder  and  less 
accessible  than  the  northern,  having  advanced  to  the 
latitude  of  74°  15'  in  an  open  sea. 

On  the  hypothesis  that  the  quantities  of  ice  which 
encumber  the  Arctic  seas  have  been  accumulating 
for  a  long  succession  of  years,  it  is  assumed  as  a 
fact    that  thniughout  Europe  a  milder  and  more 


^5?^^.■.■^c^>i*fs^■/:v^:'.■^'s!»!■,'i 


u-*ri,^^i^^j^ii^}im' 


tieth  part  of  a  degree. 
ion  be  wafted  to  our 
in  the  length  of  the 
r.  Dradlcy  entertained 
It  have  been  tolerated 
ice;  but  that  the  same 
proclaimed  with  con- 
xcite  surprise, 
rgested  themselves  on 
le  first  expedition  sent 
Arctic  seas,  have  been 
results   of  the   late 
y,  by  the  most  vigi. 
led,  during  the  brief 
advance  from  Baffin's 
ove  400  miles  west- 
8  of  ice,  on  the  pa- 
distance  is  probably 
e  space  between  the 
AH  the  subsequent  at- 
penetrate  any  fartlier 
ed  unsuccessful ;  and 
caching  the  Pole,  by 
e  of  rough  and  broken 
}t  labour  and  incited 
r  enabled  him  to  pro- 
)rthward  from  Spitz- 
of  83°  45',  not  far  be- 
Greenland  whalers, 
stimulant  of  national 
"e,  the  resolution  to 
in  the  opposite  hemi- 
ered  colder  and  less 
ving  advanced  to  the 
ia. 

antities  of  ice  which 

I  been  accumulating 

it  is  assumed  as  a 

a  milder  and  more 


CLIMATi:.  99 

genial  climate  had  formerly  prevailed.  A  closer  in- 
spection of  the  details,  however,  will  show  this  sup- 
position  to  be  destitute  of  any  solid  support.  One 
hears  continual  complaints,  indeed,  of  tlie  altered 
condition  of  the  seasons,  especially  from  elderly  per- 
sons, wliosc  bodily  frame  has  become  more  suscepti- 
ble to  the  impressions  of  cold ;  but  similar  lamenta- 
tions have  been  repeated  by  the  poets  and  the  vulgar 
from  the  earliest  times.  If  we  listened  implicitly  to 
such  querulous  declaimers,  we  sliould  believe  that 
nature  has  spent  all  her  fires,  and  is  ha  tening  fast 
into  decay.  Immense  forests,  it  is  said,  anciently 
clothed  the  highest  tracts  of  this  island  and  other 
northern  countries,  where  scarcely  a  tree  can  now 
be  made  to  grow.  The  period  of  vintage  was  in 
former  ages  several  weeks  earlier  in  France  than  at 
present;  vineyards  were  planted  during  the  time  of 
the  Romans  in  various  parts  of  the  south  of  England, 
where  at  this  day  even  hops  are  raised  with  diffi- 
culty ;  and  the  sides  of  many  hills  in  Scotland  bear 
evident  traces  of  the  plough,  which  have  been  long 
since  abandoned  irretrievably  to  the  dusky  heath. 

But,  in  answer  to  such  allegations,  it  may  be  ob- 
served, that  a  patch  of  wood  will  not  thrive  in  cold 
situations,  merely  for  want  of  the  shelter  which  is 
afforded  by  extensive  plantations.  In  Sweden  and 
Norway,  which  are  mostly  covered  with  natu:.il 
forests,  it  has  become  an  object  ofpolice  to  prevent 
their  indiscriminate  destruction.  The  timber  m  those 
sylvan  countries  is  cut  at  stated  periods  of  its  growth, 
and  in  detached  portions ;  the  vacant  spaces  being 
left  as  niurseries,  embosomed  amid  an  expanse  of  t^ 
trees.  Some  places  in  Sweden,  where  the  forests 
have  been  accidentally  destroyed  by  fire,  present  the 
image  of  sterility  and  of  wide  desolation. 

It  is  probable  that  the  vines  grown  in  ancient  times 
were  coarser  and  hardier  plants  than  those  which 
are  now  cultivated.  A  similar  observation  extends 
to  all  the  products  of  gardening.    A  succession  of 


J 


40 


CtlMATI. 


diligent  culture  softens  the  character  of  the  Tcffeta- 
We  tnbes,  and  renders  them  more  delicate,  while  it 
heiffhtens  the  flavour  of  their  fruit.  The  Roman 
soldiers  stationed  in  Britain  would  naturally  jwfer 
wine,  their  accustomed  beverage,  however  harsh  and 
poor,  to  the  cenisia,  or  unpalatable  ale  brewed  bv 
the  rude  arts  of  the  natives. 

The  marks  of  tillage  left  on  our  northern  hills 
prove  only  the  wretched  state  of  agriculture  at  a  re- 
mote  period.  For  want  of  a  proper  system  of  rota- 
tion, and  the  due  application  of  manure,  the  starving 
tenantry  were  then  tempted  to  tear  up  with  the  plough 
every  virgin  spot  thoy  could  find,  and,  after  extract- 
mgfrom  it  a  pitiful  crop  or  two  of  oats,  to  abandon 
It  to  a  lasting  sterility.  The  cattle  in  those  days, 
having  no  sort  of  provender  through  the  winter  but 
dry  straw,  were  quite  feeble  and  exhausted  in  the 
spring.  The  soil,  too,  was  very  stiff,  from  want 
of  repeated  and  seasonable  tillage.  Under  such  cir- 
cumstances,  it  affords  no  proof  of  any  great  heat, 
that  the  slothful  peasants,  oppressed  with  a  load  of 
clothes,  usually  began  their  operations  in  the  field 
before  sunrise,  while  preparing  the  ground  for  the  re- 
ception of  the  barley-seed. 

It  is  very  difficult  to  ascertain  the  precise  condi- 
tion  of  the  weather  in  distant  a^es.  TTie  thermome- 
ter was  not  invented  till  1590,  by  the  celebrated 
Sanctorio;  nor  was  that  valuable  instrument  re. 
duced  to  a  correct  standard  before  the  year  1784,  by 
the  skill  of  Fahrenheit.  Wo  have  hence  no  observa- 
tions  of  temperature  which  go  farther  back  than  a 
century.  Prior  to  this  period,  we  must  glean  our  in- 
formation from  tho  loose  and  scanty  notices  which 
are  scattered  through  the  old  chronicles  relative  to 
the  state  of  the  han'est,  the  quality  of  the  vintage, 
or  the  endurance  of  frost  and  snow  in  the  winter. 
Great  allowance,  however,  should  be  made  for  tho 
■Pi?V  •  f^^^geration  and  the  'ove  of  the  marvellous 
Which  infect  all  those  rude  historical  monuments. 


!!>-^?!9?i«wiS5^'^,5sat«a53j.-j^v^^^^^^ 


'&vr.au4^t-ftL£  '-jji 


CLIMATE. 


41 


iharactcr  of  the  vc^eta- 
more  delicate,  while  it 

eir  fruit.  The  Roman 
would  naturally  prefer 

rape,  however  harsh  and 

alatable  ale  brewed  by 

I  on  our  northern  hills 
e  of  agfriculture  at  a  re- 
proper  system  of  rota- 
of  manure,  the  starving 
)  tear  up  with  the  plough 
find,  and,  after  extract- 
wo  of  oats,  to  abandon 
e  cattle  in  those  days, 
through  the  winter  but 
and  exhausted  in  the 
very  stiff,  from  want 
Uane.     Under  such  cir- 
oof  of  any  great  heat, 
)pres8cd  with  a  load  of 
operations  in  the  field 
ig  the  ground  for  the  re- 
tain the  precise  condi- 
ajres.    The  thermome- 
>90,  by  the  celebrated 
iluable  instnnnent  re- 
efore  the  year  1784,  by 
have  hence  no  observa- 
o  farther  back  than  a 
I,  we  must  glean  our  in- 
scanty  notices  which 
chronicles  relative  to 
quality  of  the  vintage, 
;1  snow  in  the  winter, 
lould  be  made  for  tho 
'oveof  the  marvellous 
torical  monuments. 


♦^    .«'  ancing  over  the  incidental  notices  of  the  state 
c.  tne  weather,  it  is  obvious  that  no  material  change 
has  taken  place  fo-  the  last  thousand  years  in  the 
chmate  of  Europe;  but  we  may  conjecture  that  it 
hiis  gradually  acquired  rather  a  milder  character;  at 
least  Its  excessive  severity  appears  on  tho  whole  to 
be  of  rarer  occurrence.    The  weather  seems  not  to 
atrect  any  precise  course  of  succession,  although 
two  or  more  years  of  remarkable  heat  or  cold  often 
follow  consecutively ;  yet  there  can  be  no  doubt,  that 
series  of  atmospheric  changes,  however  complicated 
and  perplexing,  are  as  determinate  in  their  nature  as 
the  revolutions  of  the  celestial  bodies.    When  the 
science  of  meteorology  is  more  advanced,  we  sliall, 
perhaps,  by  discovering  a  glimpse  of  those  vast 
cycles,  which  result  from  the  varied  aspects  of  the 
sun  combined  with  the  feebler  inlliience  of  the  moon, 
be  at  length  enabled  to  predict  with  some  degree  of 
probability,  the  condition  of  future  seasons.    The  in- 
termediale  period  of  nine  years,  or  the  semi-revolu- 
tion  nearly  of  the  lunar  nodes  and  apogee,  proposed 
by  Toaldo,  seems  not  to  be  altogether  destitute  of 
foundation.     Thus,  of  the  years  remarkably  cold, 
1622  was  succeeded,  after  the  interval  of  four  periods 
or  36  years,  by  1658,  whose  severity  lasted  through 
the  followng  year.    The  same  interval  brings  us  to 
1695,  and  five  periods  more  extend  to  1740,— a  very  fa- 
mous cold  year  ;  three  periods  now  com- )  down  to  1767 
nme  years  more  to  1776,  and  eighteen  years  more  to 
1794,  the  cold  continuing  through  1795.    Of  the  hot 
years  it  may  bo  observed,  that  four  periods  of  nine 
years  extend  from  1616  to  1662,  and  three  such  again 
to  1679.    From  1701  to  1718  there  was  an  intervaJ  of 
seventeen  years,  or  very  neariy  two  periods,  while 
three  periods  reach  to  1746,  another  period  to  1754 
and  one  more  falls  on  1763 ;  and  from  1779  to  1788, 
there  are  just  nine  years.    The  year  1818  would 
therefore  correspond  to  1701,  1719,  and  174G,  and 
consequently  very  nearly  to  1718.    Again,  the  years 

1/  ^ 


42 


CLIMATE. 


1784, 1793, 1809,  and  1811,  at  the  intervals  of  succes* 
Bive  periods,  were  all  of  them  romnrkably  warm.  A 
cycle  of  64  years,  iuciuding  therefore  six  of  thcie 
nubordinato  [leriods,  has  lately  been  proposed  with 
murh  coiifldeiicfi,  but  apparently  on  slender  groumls. 

If  the  climate  had  undcrRono  any  real  change  in 
the  more  temperate  parts  of  Europe,  a  corres|M)nding 
alteration,  witii  very  distinct  features,  must  inevitably 
have  taken  place  in  the  Arctic  regions.  But  a  dispas- 
sionate inquiry  discovers  no  circumstances  whicn  at 
all  clearly  point  at  such  a  conclusion.  On  this  head 
we  may  readily  satisfy  ourselves,  by  a  short  retro- 
spect of  the  pnncipal  facts  wlilch  have  been  recorded 
by  voyagers. 

Greenland,  in  its  position  and  general  outline,  ap- 
pears to  resemble  the  vast  promontory  of  South  Ame- 
rica. Froin  Cape  I'arowell,  a  small  island,  divided 
from  the  shore  by  a  narrow  inlet  called  Staaten 
Hoek,  in  the  latitude  of  60°,  it  stretches,  in  a  north- 
westerly direction,  about  800  miles  to  Cape  Desola- 
tion, and  then  nearly  northward  to  Good  Haven,  in 
latitude  65°,  where  it  inclines  nearly  a  point  towards 
the  east,  as  far  as  the  island  of  Disco,  which  occupies 
a  spa'-^uus  bay,  between  the  latitudes  of  67°  and  71°, 
in  Davis's  Strait.  Thence  the  continent  extends 
almost  due  north,  beyond  the  latitude  of  76°,  till  it  is 
lost  in  the  recesses  of  Baffin's  Bay.  Or  the  other 
side,  Greonland  stretches  about  north-noit'i-east,  300 
miles,  but  with  a  great  smuosity,  till  nearly  op- 
posite to  Iceland,  in  the  latitude  of  64°,  and  now 
advances  almost  north-east  to  the  latitude  of  76°, 
when,  suddeidy  bending  to  the  nortli,  it  holds  this  di- 
rection beyond  Spitzbergen  and  the  latitude  of  80°. 
Tlie  coast  is  every  where  bold  and  rocky,  like  that 
of  Norway ;  and  the  interior  of  the  country  consists 
of  clustering  lofty  mountains,  covered  with  eternal 
snows.  But  the  western  side,  which  fonns  Davis's 
Strait,  is  indented  with  numerous  bights,  creeks,  and 
fiords  or  firths,  which,  for  the  space  of  two  or  three 
muuthti  each  year,  look  verdout,  oiid  yield  lolerai>le 


:,aS!mtm.mmms'A/i>-iiiSi(»^}a(-mMi£^>^*S. 


le  intervals  of  succes- 
omnrkably  warm.  A 
lereforc  six  of  these 
r  boon  proposed  with 
y  on  slender  grounds. 

0  any  real  change  In 
irope,  a  corre8])onding 
tures,  must  inevitably 
!ginn8.  But  a  disnas- 
rciiniHtanccs  whion  at 
luaion.  On  this  head 
vi'R,  by  a  short  retro- 
ch  have  been  recorded 

d  general  outline,  ap- 
ontoiy  of  South  Ame- 
small  island,  divided 
inlet  called  Staaten 
stretches,  in  a  north- 
liles  to  Cape  Desola- 
d  to  Good  Haven,  in 
learly  a  point  towards 
Disco,  which  occupies 
titude8of67°and71o, 
le  continent  extends 
itilude  of  76°,  till  it  is 

1  Hay.  Or  the  other 
;  north-noi'v  Veast,  300 
osity,  till  nearly  op- 
ude  of  64°,  and  now 
)  the  latitude  of  76°, 
nortli,  it  holds  this  di< 
d  the  latitude  of  80°. 

and  rocky,  like  that 
f  the  country  consists 

covered  with  eternal 
,  which  fonns  Davis's 
us  bights,  creeks,  and 
pace  of  two  or  three 
t,  dUid  yield  tolerable 


OinATE.  4t 

pMtnrage.    The  eastern  shore,  again,  which  pro- 
perly l)ounds  the  Greenland  s«!iMJ,  can  nircly  bo  ap- 
proached by  the  whalers,  as  the  accumulated  stream 
of  ice,  which  in  summer  is  constantly  drifting  from 
the  north-east,  creates  a  formidable  barrier.    The 
position  of  this  icy  boundary,  thougli  nearly  parallel 
to  the  land,  is  not  absolutely  fixed,  but  varies  witliio 
certain  limits  in  different  years.    The  late  survey 
by  Mr.  Scoresby  was  therefore  not  very  satisfactory. 
In  Davis's  Strait,  the  whalers  generally  resort  to 
Disco  Bay,  or  push  farther  north ;  sometimes  as  far 
as  the  latitude  of  76°,  to  the  variable  margin  of  the 
great  icy  continent.     On  the  other  side  of  Green- 
land, about  the  meridian  of  eight  degrees  east  from 
Greenwich,  the  ice,  in  warm  seasons,  retifes  to  the 
latitude  of  80°,  beyond  Hakluyt's  Headland,  at  the 
extremity  of  Spitzbergen ;  while,  at  other  times,  it 
advances  as  far  south  on  the  same  line  as  the  lati- 
tude of  70°,  enveloping  the  whole  of  that  island,  but 
forming  below  it  a  wide  bay,  called  the  Whal^her's 
Bight,  on  the  parallel  of  Bear  Island.    The  former 
are  called  open,  and  the  latter  dote  seasons.    In  open 
seasons,  the  ships  employed  in  these  fisheries  find  a 
channel  from  20  to  60  leagues  wide,  through  which 
they  shoot  forward  along  the  shores  of  Spitzbergen, 
till  they  reach  the  latitude  of  78°  or  79°,  where  the 
whales  are  most  abundant.    The  chase  of  these  ani- 
mals, in  the  Greenland  seas  at  least,  seldom  lasts 
above  two  months,  commencing  generally  at  the  end 
of  April,  and  terminating  with  June,  when  they  usu 
ally  disappear,  and  the  prevalence  of  dense  fogs  ren- 
ders the  navigation  very  dangerous.     In  Davis's 
Strait,  the  fishery  continues  often  for  two,  or  even 
three  montlis  longer.    Mr.  Scoresby  thinks  it  were 
better  if  our  Greenland  ships,  like  the  Dutch  and 
other  foreigners,  began  their  voyage  somewhat  later 
than  has  become  the  practice.    In  close  seasons,  tho 
hardy  navigator  is  obliged,  with  imminb:.>t  peril  and 
hazard,  to  impcil  his  ship,  by  boring  xiiidtr  a  press 


44 


CMIUTI. 


of  sail,  and  usisted  by  rop«i  and  aawi,  through  the 
drift-ice  which  bordcni  tJin  ffrcat  barrier, endeavouring 
to  follow  every  vein  of  water  that  runir  nearly  in  the 
requiri'.l  direction.  If  he  fail  in  this  attempt,  ho  murt 
forego  the  chance  of  a  profitable  voyage,  and  content 
himself  with  the  humbler  pursuit  of  catching  seals. 

The  space  over  which  the  line  of  ice  may  bo  sup- 
posed to  oscillate  in  the  Greenland  seas,  extends  1400 
niih'N  from  Cape  Farewell  to  aoo  miles  beyond  Jan 
Mayen's  IslaiMi,  which  it  includes,  and  has  a  mean 
breadth  of  about  80  miles.  Such  is  the  extent  of 
the  mere  surplus  ice  formed  and  dissolved  from  year 
to  year, — exceeding  the  whole  surface  of  Great  Dri- 
tain.  Hence  the  miantity  melted  or  liberated  during 
the  years  1816  and  1817  l)ore  no  very  considerable 
pro[)orlioii  to  the  ordinary  fluctuating  mass.  It  id 
therefore  evident,  that  whatever  may  be  the  casual 
variations  of  the  frozen  expanse,  no  niiffhty  alteration 
has  yet  taken  place  in  the  climate  and  condition  of 
the  Arctic  i^as. 

If  we  compare  the  Journals  of  former  navigators, 
we  shall  be  convinced  that  all  the  changes  of  tlio 
Polar  ice  are  periodical,  and  are  agtdn  repeated  at 
no  very  distant  intervals  of  time.  Wo  may  pass  over 
the  pretensionn  of  some  Dutch  captains,  who  alleged 
that  they  had  been  carried  by  wmds  or  currents  as 
far  north  as  the  latitude  of  88°,  or  e Vt.  ii  that  of  89°  40*, 
and  conscqiiently  only  twenty  miles  from  the  Pole ; 
since  their  estimate,  at  all  times  rude,  from  observa- 
tions w  ''h  the  fore-staff,  was  then  founded  on  mere 
dead  reckoning  after  a  contin  '.ation  of  foggy  weather. 
Davis,  in  1587,  ascended,  n  the  strait  which  de- 
servedly bears  his  name,  to  the  latitude  of  78°  la*, 
where  he  found  the  variation  of  the  compass  to  be 
88°  west,  or  nearly  the  same  as  at  present.  In  1616, 
Baffin  advanced,  in  the  same  quarter,  as  high  as  the 
latitude  of  78  decrees.  Hudson  had,  nine  years 
before,  penetrated  m  the  Greenland  seas  to  the  lati- 
tude of  81°,  and  tioen  supposed  laud  as  high  as  that 


T 


OtniATI. 


ind  mws,  throoffh  the 
t  barrier,  endnavoiiring 
hut  ninir  nearly  in  the 
i  this  Httcmpt,  lio  must 
1p  voyiisrc  1111(1  content 
luit  of  catcliinir  senla. 
ne  of  ice  may  bo  «up- 
»nil  neas,  oxtcndn  1400 
iW  miles  beyond  Jan 
udcB,  and  haa  a  mean 
inch  is  tiie  extent  of 
1(1  dissolved  from  year 
surface  of  Great  Hri- 
ted  or  liberated  during 
no  very  considerable 
ictuating  mass.  It  id 
er  may  be  the  cacual 
B,  no  mighty  alteration 
late  ana  condition  of 

of  former  navigators, 
1  the  changes  of  tlio 
ore  agiiin  repeated  at 
e.  Wo  may  pass  over 
captains,  who  alleged 
wmds  or  currents  as 
9rev>.iithatof89<'40', 
miles  from  the  Pole ; 
38  rude,  from  observa- 
:hcn  founded  on  mere 
tion  of  fojfgy  weather, 
the  strait  which  de< 
le  latitude  of  Ta**  la*, 
if  the  compass  to  be 
9  at  present.  In  1616, 
uarter,  as  high  as  the 
Ison  had,  nine  years 
iland  seas  to  the  lati- 
i  laud  as  high  as  that 


48 


of  88°  lying  to  the  northeast  of  Spitibcrgen.    Out 
It  IS  raoitifying  to  remark  how  little  progress  has 
buen  made  iii  geographical  discovery  sinco  Uioso 
early  and  intrepid  adventurers  explored  the  Arctic 
regions  with  their  humble  barks,  which  seldom  ex- 
cecded  iho  size  of  fifty  tons.     Wo  must  pass  over 
?Ji^Ti    ,"'^  '"tcrval  to  obtain  aut.-entic  iiilomiation. 
m  751,  Captiiin  M'CiUIam,  whoi..  Mr.  Harrington 
calls  a  scientific  seaman,  sailed  without  obstruction 
from  I  lakhiyt'H  Headland  as  high  as  the  latitude  of 
HJ4  ,  where  ho  found  an  open  sea ;  and  the  weather 
being  fine,  notJmig  hindered  him  from  proceedinir 
farther,  but  his  resiwiwibility  to  its  owners  for  the 
safety  of  tho  ship.    Captain  Wilson,  about  the  end 
pi  Juno,  17M,  having  traversed  floating  ice  from  tho 
latitude  of  74»  to  81",  at  last  found  the  seaquito  clear 
as  far  as  ho  could  descry;  and  he  advanced  to  the 
atitude  of  83°,  till,  not  meeting  with  any  whales,  and 
iHiginmng  to  apprehend  some  danger,  ho  shaped  back 
lus  course.    At  this  vry  Ume,  Captain  Guy,  after  four 
days  of  foggy  weather,  was  likewise  earned  to  tho 
same  point.    Tlie  Polar  seas  at  this  period  must 
indeed  have  been  remarkably  open ;  for    -'  of  the 
most  extraordinary  and  best-authenticate.    .oyaires 
was  performed  in  1754  by  Mr.  Stephens,  a  very  skil- 
ful  and  accurate  observer,  whose  testimony  is  put 
beyond  all  manner  of  doubt  by  the  cool  judgment  of 
the  late  astronomer-royal.  Dr.  Maskelyne.     This 
navigator  informed  him,  that  about  the  end  of  May. 
ho  was  dnven  off  Spitzhcrgen  by  a  southerly  wind 
which  blew  for  several  days,  till  ho  had  readied  tho 
latitude  of  844°;  and  that  in  the  whole  of  this  run 
he  met  with  httlc  ico  and  no  drift-wood,  and  !id  not 
find  the  cold  to  be  anywise  excessive.    In  different 
Bubseoucnt  years,  the  Greenland  whalers  have  ad- 
vancod  to  the  latitude  of  8 1  or  83  degrees.    1'his  was 
accomplished  even  in  1766;  although,  according  to 
lierguelin,  the  whole  space  between  Iceland  and  tho 
opposite  coast  was  then  frozen  over.    The  year 


46 


ClIMATE. 


1773,  or  tliat  in  which  Captain  Phipps  performed  h's 
voyage,  was  still  more  favourable  for  approaching 
towards  the  North  Pole.  In  1806,  the  elder  Mr. 
Scoresby  ascended  to  the  latitude  of  81°  60';  but  in 
the  following  year  he  could  not  proceed  farther  than 
the  parallel  of  78 J°.  In  1811,  the  higher  latitudes 
were  again  accessible;  and,  after  a  short  interval, 
the  summers  of  1816, 1816,  and  1817  are  represented 
as  open  seasons;  though  none  of  the  whalers  have 
now  penetrated  so  far  into  the  north  as  had  been  done 
in  many  former  years,  and  particularly  in  1754. 

In  tliis  plain  statement,  one  can  perceive  no  de- 
cided symptoms  of  any  general  or  progressive  ten- 
dency towards  a  dissolution  of  the  Polar  ice.  The 
frozen  border  alters  its  position  from  one  year  to 
another,  and  probably  returns  again  to  the  same 
limits  after  certain  short  periods  of  time.  Such  fluc- 
tuations are  analogous  to  the  incessant  changes  which 
alTect  the  state  of  the  weather  in  the  more  temperate 
regions.  The  complex  system  of  winds  moulds  the 
climate,  and  varies  the  features  of  the  seasons  over 
the  globe.  It  is  a  common  remark  of  those  who  fre- 
quent the  Polar  seas,  that  they  find  always  the  least 
obstruction  from  ice  when  the  preceding  winter  has 
been  very  severe  in  the  more  southern  latitudes.  In 
the  year  1766,  though  the  frost  had  proved  most  in- 
tense through  the  rest  of  Europe,  the  whalers  reached 
a  high  latitude  ;  and,  not  to  multiply  instances,  the 
three  seasons  preceding  1818,  reckoned  very  open, 
succeeded  to  winters  notoriously  cold  and  protracted. 
Nor  is  it  difficult  to  discern  the  reason  of  tWs  seeming 
paradox ;  for  our  severe  winters  are  occasioned  by 
the  prevalence  of  northerly  winds,  which  must  arrive 
at  the  Polar  seas  from  the  south,  and  consequently 
transport  so  much  warmth  to  them  as  may  check  the 
usual  rigour  of  the  frost. 

The  main  argument,  however,  brought  to  prove  the 
deterioration  of  the  Arctic  climate,  is  drawn  from  the 
supposed  existence  of  a  colony,  which  had  once 


fc«te%-ss«tri;fft*v»»*«»sM:»«*-fiais^ 


s. 


in  Phipps  performed  h>9 
urable  for  approaching 
In  1806,  the  elder  Mr. 
itudeof  81°50';  but  in 
lot  proceed  farther  than 
1,  the  higher  latitudes 
after  a  short  interval, 
lid  1817  are  represented 
le  of  the  whalers  have 
!  north  as  had  been  done 
irticularly  in  1754. 
e  can  perceive  no  de- 
ral  or  progressive  ten- 
3f  the  Polar  ice.  The 
tion  from  one  year  to 
ns  again  to  the  same 
ids  of  time.  Such  fluc- 
ncessant  changes  which 
T  in  the  more  temperate 
m  of  winds  moulds  the 
es  of  the  seasons  over 
mark  of  those  who  fre- 
y  find  always  the  least 
B  preceding  winter  has 
southern  latitudes.  In 
5t  had  proved  most  in- 
ipe,  the  whalers  reached 
multiply  instances,  the 
8,  reckoned  very  open, 
sly  cold  and  protracted, 
reason  of  this  seeming 
era  are  occasioned  by 
inds,  which  must  arrive 
)uth,  and  consequently 
them  as  may  check  the 

ST,  brought  to  prove  the 
nate,  is  drawn  from  the 
lony,  which  had  onca 


CUMATK. 


47 


flourished  on  the  eastern  coast  of  Greenland,  but  has. 
for  several  centuries,  be-^ome  extinct;  all  access  to 
Its  remains  being  at  length  completely  barred  bvthe 
accumulation  o?  ice.  This  tale,  which  seems  to 
have  owed  its  birth  to  Torfteus,  the  historian  of  Nor- 
way,  has  obtained  very  general  credence.  Yet,  a 
sober  examination  of  the  early  &^fls,  or  northern 
chronicles,  so  full  of  wonder  and  fable,  will  show 
mat  there  :,  no  solid  reason  for  entertaining  such  a 
notion,  or  believing  that  the  first  settlement  of  Green- 
land  was  made  on  the  east  side  of  the  continent 
Ihe  whole  contexture  of  the  original  narrative  indi- 
cates  the  very  opposite  conclusion. 

After  the  North  had  ceased  to  send  forth  her  nu- 
merous  swarms  upon  the  fertile  provinces  of  the 
Koman  empire,  the  Scandinavian  nations,  prompted 
by  their  peciOiai  situation,  betook  themselves  to  a 
Jife  of  maritime  adventure.  Those  bold  and  hardv 
pirates  visited  every  sea,  and  pillaged,  during  a 
course  of  nearly  three  hundred  years,  all  the  coasts 
Of  Europe,  from  the  extremity  of  Scotland  to  the 
shores  of  Sicily.  During  the  first  half  of  the  ninth 
o^^  «7'  ?^^^  conquered  the  Orkneys,  the  Shetland 
ana  Western  Isles— obtained  possession  of  Ireland 
—plundered  England  and  France— and  extended  their 
ravages  to  Italy.  In  876,  the  Northmen,  or  Nor- 
mands,  extorted  from  the  weakness  of  the  French 
king  the  cession  of  the  fine  province  of  Neustria. 
where  they  quietly  settled;  while  another  party 
01  these  fierce  invaders  had  occupied  the  fertUe 
''"n  ♦  *v  *'*?''°"'^  on  the  south  side  of  the  Baltic. 

Hut  the  visits  of  those  intrepid  navigators  were  not 
confined  to  the  richer  countries  of  the  south.  Thev 
carried  ravens  with  them,  for  the  purpose  of  discover- 
ing  distant  land,  by  the  direction  of  the  flight  of  those 
powerful  and  sagacious  birds.  In  861,  Nadodd,  a 
roving  pirate,  in  one  of  his  voyages  in  the  northern 
seas,  happened  to  be  cast  away  on  an  island  which  he 
caued  bnowland.    ITiree  years  afterward,  Gardar  and 


48 


CLIMATE. 


Flocke,  two  Swedes,  visited  it ;  and  having  found  a 
great  auantity  of  drift-ice  collected  on  the  north  side 
of  it,  tliey  gave  it  the  name  of  Iceland,  which  it  still 
bears.  But  in  874,  Ingolf  and  Leif,  two  famous  Nor- 
wegian adventurers,  carried  a  colony  to  this  inhospi- 
table rerion,  the  latter  having  enriched  it  with  tne 
booty  which  he  had  ravaged  from  England.  Other 
emigrants,  whom  the  disorders  of  the  times  drove 
successively  from  home,  resorted  in  crowds  to  the 
new  settlement,  which  became  very  considerable  in 
the  space  of  a  few  years. 

Iceland :'  ■"•If  was  able,  after  the  progress  of  about  a 
century,  t  -nrt  out  likewise  her  colonies.  Thor- 
wald,  a  pu .  _  and  opulent  Norwegian  chief,  who  had 
been  lately  banished  thither  from  the  court  for  some 
murder  committed  by  liim,  soon  died  in  exile,  leaving 
his  wealth  and  liis  restless  spirit  to  bis  son  Eric 
Raude,  or  the  Red.  This  youth,  actuated  by  «he  same 
vengeful  passions,  killed  one  of  his  neighbours  in  a 
fight,  and  was  obliged  to  withdraw  himself  from  Ice- 
land for  the  space  of  tljree  years.  In  982,  Eric 
sailed  in  quest  of  adventiub  -;d  discovery.  In- 
structed by  the  reports  oi  li  s  '^  T^^vigators,  he 
directed  his  course  towards  '.  a*  >west;  and, 
after  a  quick  run,  he  descried  o  .>  v  mountains, 
the  one  covered  with  snow  and  ..>  ouiier  cased  with 
ice,  which  he  called  Huitaerken  and  Blaaserken,  or 
the  White  Shirt  and  the  Blue  Shirt,  and  soon  reached 
a  headland  which  lie  doubled;  and  having  entered  a 
spacious  creek,  he  spent  the  winter  on  a  pleasant 
adjacent  island.  In  the  followuig  season,  pursuing 
his  discoveries,  he  explored  the  continent,  and  was 
delighted  with  the  freshness  and  verdure  of  its  coast. 
Contrasting  this  new  country  with  the  dark  rocks  of 
Iceland,  he  bestowed  on  it  the  flattering  appellation 
of  Greenland ;  and,  on  his  return,  invited  settlers  to 
join  him,  by  circulating  tlte  most  glowing  and  exag- 
gerated descriptions.  With  twenty-five  vessels  he 
Bailed  back  again ;  but  of  these  only  fourteen  reached 


*«»»S6s»f«JBS«JgifS.>W<i.AS'j>Ji«(^SiSi 


otnuTS. 


49 


it ;  and  having  found  a 
lected  on  the  north  side 
f  Iceland,  which  it  still 
1  Leif,  two  famous  Nor- 
colony  to  this  inhospi- 
I  enriched  it  with  the 
from  England.  Other 
jrs  of  the  times  drove 
3rte(>  in  crowds  to  the 
le  very  considerable  in 

r  the  progress  of  about  a 
e  her  colonies.  Thor- 
>rwegian  chief,  who  had 
From  the  court  for  some 
on  died  in  exile,  leaving 
spirit  to  bis  son  Eric 
th,  actuated  by  <he  same 
of  his  neighbours  in  a 
draw  himself  from  Ice- 
e  yearsy  In  982,  Eric 
■fa  ';d  discovery.  In- 
ii)i  »*  r^ivigators,  he 
i  !  fi'  -west;  and, 
d  o  .  '  y  mountains, 
nd  ...  o-iicr  cased  with 
•ken  and  Blaaserken,  or 
Shirt,  and  soon  reached 
I ;  and  having  entered  a 
e  winter  on  a  pleasant 
)wing  season,  pursuing 
the  continent,  and  was 
and  verdure  of  its  coast. 
f  with  the  dark  rocks  of 
he  flattering  appellation 
etum,  invited  settlers  to 
nost  glowing  and  exag- 
twenty-five  vessels  he 
se  only  fourteen  reached 


their  destination.  This  colony  was  soon  augmented, 
by  the  arrival  cf  other  adventurers,  not  only  from 
Iceland,  but  from  the  Orkneys  and  other  islands 
planted  by  the  Norwegians.  In  the  year  999,  Leif, 
a  son  of  Eric  Raude,  having  visited  the  court  of 
Norway,  was  induced,  by  the  zealous  and  earnest 
solicitation  of  King  Olaf  Tryggeson,  to  embrace  the 
Christian  faith ;  and,  carrying  with  him  some  monks, 
he  found,  through  their  ministry,  no  great  difficulty 
m  persuadmg  his  father  and  the  rest  of  the  settle™ 
to  forsake  the  rites  of  paganism. 

The  first  colony  having  extended  itself  along  the 
coast  to  a  wide  firth,  another  settlement  beyond  that 
boundary  was  established  farther  towards  the  west. 
The  former,  called  Oestre  Bygd,  or  the  EatUm  Settle- 
ment, is  said  to  have  included,  in  its  most  flourishing 
state,  twelve  parishes  and  two  convents;  and  the 
latter,  termed  Festre  Bygd,ot  the  Weitem  SeUlement, 
contained  four  parishes.  The  colonists  of  Greenland 
were  compelled  to  lead  a  life  of  hardship  and  severe 
privations.  Tliey  dwelt  in  hovels  surrounded  by 
mountains  of  perpetual  ice ;  they  never  tasted  bread, 
but  subsisted  on  the  fish  which  they  caught,  joined  to 
a  little  milk  obtained  from  their  starving  cows;  and, 
■with  seal-skins  and  the  tusks  of  the  walnis,  they  pur- 
chased, from  the  traders  who  occasionally  visited 
them,  the  wood  required  for  fuel  and  the  construction 
of  their  huts. 

Combining  the  several  circumstances  together,  it 
seems  clear  that  the  origmal  colony  of  Greenland 
began  about  the  southern  promontory,  pear  Cape 
Farewell,  and  stretched  along  the  coast  in  a  north- 
westerly direction.  Farther  north,  and  probably  as 
high  as  the  latitude  of  60°,  the  second  settlement  was 
formed.  For  some  centuries  both  of  them  main- 
tained a  sort  of  commercial  intercourse  with  Nor- 
way; but  this  trade  became  afterward  very  much 
reduced,  in  consequence  of  its  being  seized  as  an 
E 


50 


CtlMATE. 


exclusive  privilege  of  the  Danish  court.  About  tho 
year  1376,  the  natives  of  the  country,  or  Esquimaux 
invaders,  ivhom  the  Norwegian  settlers  had  in  con- 
tempt called  ^railings  or  Dwarfs,  attacked  tho 
western  colony,  which  now  claimed  the  assistance 
of  its  elder  brother.  The  scanty  population,  how- 
ever, was  enfeebled  by  such  repeated  alarms;  and 
that  dreadful  pestilence,  termed  the  Black  Death, 
which  raged  over  Europe  from  the  year  1402  to  1404, 
at  last  extended  its  ravages  to  Greenland,  and  nearly 
completed  the  destruction.  In  fertile  regions  the 
waste  of  the  human  species  is  always  quickly  re- 
paired;  but  poor  and  oarren  countries  can  seldom 
recover  from  the  depression  of  such  severe  calami- 
ties. The  colonies  which  occupied  Greenland  appear 
to  have  languished  near  one  hundred  years  afterward, 
till  they  became  finally  extinct  about  tho  commence- 
ment of  the  sixteenth  century. 

But  a  notion  has  very  generally  prevailed,  that  only 
♦he  western  settlement  of  Greenland  had  perished, 
while  the  eastern  was  merely  secluded  from  commu- 
nication vrith  the  rest  of  the  world  by  a  vast  barrier 
of  ice,  at  length  accumulated  on  its  shares.  ITie 
oidy  question  lately  entertained  was,  whether  these 
ill-fated  colonists  have  survived  the  catastrophe,  or 
have  been  suddenly  entombed  in  ice  and  snow,  as 
the  unhappy  citizens  of  Herculaneum  were  anciently 
involved  in  a  dense  shower  of  volcanic  ashes,  Tre- 
mendous stories  are  told  of  the  east  side  of  Green- 
land being  now  tenanted  by  giants  and  stalking 
ghosts.  Kor  more  than  a  century  past  the  court  of 
Denmark  has,  at  different  times,  despatched  ships  to 
search  after  its  lost  colony,  which,  evidently  under 
the  impression  of  superstitious  awe,  found  it  impos- 
sible to  penetrate  on  that  enchanted  coast  farther 
than  Cape  Discord,  in  the  latitude  of  61°.  But  in 
favourable  seasons  small  boats  can,  without  much 
difficulty,  creep  along  tlie  shore  to  a  muoli  liigher 


g»ta^Mi<Si^BPjtaass»a» 


CLIMATE. 


fil 


inish  court.  About  tho 
country,  or  Esquimaux 
;ian  settlers  had  in  con- 
Dwarfs,  attacked  tho 
claimed  the  assistance 
canty  population,  how- 

repeated  alarms;  and 
med  the  Black  Death, 
n  the  year  1402  to  1404, 
>  Greenland,  and  nearly 
In  fertile  reg-ions  the 

is  always  quickly  re- 
I  countries  can  seldom 
of  such  severe  calami- 
lupied  Greenland  appear 
tmdred  years  afterward, 
!t  about  the  coramencc- 

y- 

ally  prevailed,  that  only 
reenland  had  perished, 
secluded  from  commu- 
world  by  a  vast  barrier 
id  on  its  shores.  ITie 
ned  was,  whether  these 
ved  the  catastrophe,  or 
ed  in  ice  and  snow,  as 
ulaneum  were  anciently 
r  volcanic  ashes,  Tre- 
the  east  side  of  Green- 
ly  giants  and  stalking 
intury  past  the  court  of 
les,  flespatched  ships  to 
wliich,  evidently  under 
us  awe,  found  it  impos- 
ichanted  coast  farther 
ititude  of  61°.  But  in 
ats  can,  without  much 
lore  to  a  much  liigher 


parallel.  If  any  settlers  had  ever  occupied  the  nar- 
row baj's,  they  might  surely  have  iscaped  either  in 
their  canoes  or  in  sledges. 

The  supposed  existence  of  a  colony  on  the  east 
side  of  Greenland  is  clearly  a  fable,  originating  in  a 
misapprehension  of  the  hnport  of  the  designationa 
applied  severally  to  the  two  settlements.  The  one 
first  made  lay  no  doubt  to  the  east,  as  well  as  to  the 
south  of  the  other;  but  tho  ships  which  resorted 
fyom  Norway  held  a  westerly  course  for  them  both. 
Between  them  a  mutual  intercourse  appears  likewise 
to  have  been  maintained,  which  surely  could  not 
have  taken  place  had  they  been  divided  by  a  chain 
of  lofty  and  impassable  mountsuns  covered  with 
eternal  snow.  Traces  of  those  ancient  settlements 
are  besides  observed  even  at  present  scattered  along 
the  western  sliores  of  Greenland,  as  low  down  as  the 
latitude  of  61",  though  not  corresponding  altogethei 
with  the  poetical  descriptions  of  the  Icelandic  Sa- 
gas. Except  the  very  slight  remains  of  a  church, 
the  only  vestiges  now  remaining  consist  of  low 
naked  walls,  which  had  served  as  pens  for  sheltering 
the  cattle. 

It  may  be  safely  affirmed  that  the  settlements 
M'hich,  during  the  last  hundred  years,  the"  Danes 
have  been  forming  at  various  points  on  the  west  side 
of  Greenland,  are  more  numerous  and  tluriving  than 
those  which  existed  at  any  former  period.  They 
consist  of  twenty-one  colonies,  stretching  over  an 
extent  of  800  miles.  The  first  establishment  is  only 
a  single  family,  occupying  Bear  Island,  a  little  to 
the  east  of  Cape  Farewell.  Ten  other  hamlets, 
composed  chiefly  of  Moravians,  are  planted  at  differ- 
ent points,  from  the  latitude  of  60°  to  that  of  68°. 
Three  settlements  are  distributed  round  Disco  Bay, 
about  the  latitude  of  69° :  and  seven  more  have  been 
extended  thence  as  far  as  the  latitude  of  73°.  So 
far,  therefore,  from  the  population  having  been  ex- 
tirpated  by  the  increased  severity  of  the  climat^  the 


52 


Ainiux  Lim. 


truth  appears  to  be,  that  the  present  establishments 
on  the  coast  of  Greenland  extend  ten  degrees  farther 
north  than  the  ancient  settlements  at  their  most 
flonrishingf  period.  This  advance  of  the  colonies 
has  been  owing,  no  doubt,  to  the  increased  activity 
of  the  whale  fisheries,  and  to  the  circumstance  of 
these  having  been  lately  carried  with  success  into 
Davis's  Strait.  But  there  is  nothing  certainly  in 
their  history  which  betrays  any  radical  or  permanent 
change  in  the  climate  of  the  Arctic  regions.  Tho 
same  continent  of  ice  still  remains  during  the  fai 
greater  part  of  the  year,  to  bar  the  access  of  the 
navigator  to  the  Pole. 


CHAPTER  II. 


Animal  and  Vegetable  Life  in  the  Polar  Regtont. 

When  we  contemplate  the  aspect  of  the  northern 
world,— -bleak,  naked,  dreary,  beaten  by  the  raging 
tempest,  and  subject  to  an  extremity  of  cold  which, 
with  us,  is  fatal  to  life  and  to  all  by  which  life  is  sup- 
ported,— we  naturally  imagine  that  animal  nature 
must  exist  there  on  a  small  scale,  and  under  diminu- 
tive forms.  It  might  be  expected,  that  only  a  few 
dwarf  and  stunted  species  woidd  be  scattered  along 
its  melancholy  shores,  and  that  life,  as  it  attempted 
to  penetrate  these  realms  of  desolation,  would  grow 
faint  and  expire.  But  the  mighty  Architect  of 
nature,  whose  ways  and  power  far  surpass  human 
comprehension,  makes  here  a  £ull  display  of  his  in- 
exhaustible resoupces.  He  has  filled  these  naked 
rocks  and  wintry  seas  with  a  swarming  profusion  of 
life,  such  as  he  scarcely  brings  forth  under  the  most 
genial  glow  of  tropical  sons.    He  has  stored  them 


mmmmmmm^smmmm»mmks.immms^mmimimiismrmm 


present  establishments 
end  ten  degrees  farther 
[!ments  at  their  most 
?ance  of  the  colonies 
the  increased  activity 
0  the  circumstance  of 
ried  with  success  into 
8  nothing  certainly  in 
ly  radical  or  permanent 
5  Arctic  regions.  Tho 
emains  during  the  fai 
bar  the  access  of  th9 


ail. 

tn  the  Polar  Regiont. 

aspect  of  the  northern 
,  beaten  by  the  raging 
ctremity  of  cold  which, 
all  by  which  life  is  sup- 
fie  that  animal  nature 
cale,  and  under  diminu- 
pected,  that  only  a  few 
ould  be  scattered  along 
hat  life,  as  it  attempted 
desolation,  would  grow 
mighty  Architect  of 
wer  far  surpass  human 
I  fiill  display  of  his  in- 
has  filled  these  naked 
swarming  profusion  of 
gs  forth  under  the  most 
He  has  stored  them 


ANtMAL  im. 


89 


with  the  mightiest  of  living  beings,  compared  to 
whose  enormous  bulk  the  elephant  and  hippoix)ta- 
mus,  which  rear  their  immense  shapes  amid  the 
marsliy  plains  of  the  tropics,  seem  almost  diminu- 
tive,   hven  the  smaller  species,  as  that  of  the  her. 
nng,  issue  forth  from  the  frozen  depths  of  the  Ai.^tic 
zone  in  shonls  which  astonish  by  their  immensity. 
Moving  m  close  and  countless  columns,  they  fill  all 
ne  southern  seas,  and  minister  food  to  nations.  The 
r,  too,  IS  darkened  by  in-'--''-vbk  flocks  of  sea- 
'l,  wJule,  even  upon  ti'.a  f,  -  ,     ,rface  of  the  land, 
nais  of  peculiar  structure  imd  food  suited  to  their 
wants. 

.  By  what  means,  or  by  what  resources,  does  Nature 
support,  amid  the  frozen  world,  this  immensity  of 
lire?  Wonderful  as  are  her  operations,  they  ar« 
always  arranged  agreeably  to  the  general  laws  im- 
posed upon  the  universe ;  and  we  shall  find,  in  the 
structure  and  condition  of  the  animal  world,  the 
powers  by  which  it  is  enabled  to  defy  this  frightful 
rigour  of  the  elements.  Some  of  the  provisions  by 
which  animal  frames  are  adapted  to  the  varying  ex- 
tremes  of  the  climate  have  almost  the  appearance  of 
direct  interposition ;  yet  a  more  profound  investiga- 
tion always  discovers  the  causes  of  them  to  be  deeply 
odged  in  their  physical  organization. 

It  is  on  the  seas  and  shores  of  the  Arctic  zone  that 
we  chiefly  observe  this  boundless  profusion  of  life ; 
and  m  conformity  with  that  arrangement  by  which 
Nature  supports  the  inhabitants  of  the  seas,  by 
making  them  the  food  of  each  other,  so  here  also 
we  observe  a  continued  gradation  of  animals,  rising 
one  above  another,  the  higher  preying  upon  the  lower, 
till  food  is  at  last  found  for  those  of  largest  bulk  and 
most  devouring  appetite. 

The  basis  of  subsistence  for  the  numerous  tribes  of 

the  Arctic  world  is  found  in  the  genus  medusa,  which 

the  sailors  graphically  describe  as  sea-blubber.    The 

aieausd  is  a  soft,  elastic,  gelatinous  substance,  spe. 

E2  .  i~ 


04 


AMIVAL  Lm> 


cimens  of  vhich  may  be  seen  lyiti)?  on  our  own  shores, 
exhibitinia:  no  signs  of  life  except  that  of  shrinking 
when  touched.  Beyond  the  Arctic  circle  it  increases 
in  an  extraordinary  degree,  and  is  eagerly  devoured 
by  the  fiiuiy  tribes  of  all  shapes  and  sizes.  By  far 
the  most  numerous,  however,  of  the  medusan  races 
are  of  dimensions  too  small  to  be  discerned  without 
the  aid  of  the  microscope, — the  application  of  which 
instrument  shows  them  to  be  the  cause  of  a  peculiar 
colour,  which  tinges  a  great  extent  of  the  Greenland 
Sea.  This  colour  is  olive-green,  and  the  water  is 
dark  and  opaque  compared  to  that  which  bears  the 
common  cerulean  hue.  These  olive  waters  occupy 
about  a  fourth  of  the  Greenland  Sea,  or  above  twenty 
thousand  square  miles ;  and  hence  the  number  of  me- 
dusan  animalcules  which  they  contain  is  far  beyond 
calculation.  Mr.  Scoresby  estimates  that  two  square 
miles  contain  23,B88,00O,000,00fl,()00 ;  and  as  this 
number  is  beyond  the  range  of  human  words  and 
conceptions,  he  illustrates  it  by  observing,  that  80,000 
persons  woiild  have  been  employed  since  the  creation 
m  counting  it.  Tliis  green  sea  may  be  considered  as 
the  Polar  pakiture-ground,  where  whales  arc  always 
seen  in  the  gr  satest  numbers.  These  prodigious  ani- 
mals cannot  lerive  any  direct  subsistence  from  such 
small  mvisible  particles ;  but  these  form  the  food  of 
other  minute  creatijres,  which  then  support  others, 
till  at  length  animal's  are  produced  of  such  size  as  to 
afford  a  morsel  for  their  mighty  devourers.  The  ge- 
nus cancer,  larger  in  size  than  the  medusa,  appears 
to  rank  second  in  number  and  importance.  It  pre- 
sents itself  under  the  various  species  of  the  crab, 
and,  above  all,  of  the  shrimp,  whose  multitudes  rival 
those  of  the  medusa,  and  which  in  all  quarters  feed 
and  are  fed  upon.  So  carniverous  are  the  propensi- 
ties of  the  northern  shrimps,  that  joints  hung  out  by 
Captain  Parry's  crew  from  the  sides  of  the  ship  were 
in  a  few  nights  picked  to  the  very  bone ;  and  nothing 
could  be  placed  within  their  reach  except  bodies  of 


yinff  on  our  own  shores, 
?ept  that  of  shrinking 
Arctic  circle  it  increases 
nd  is  eagerly  devoured 
)e8  and  sizes.  By  far 
of  the  medusan  races 

0  be  discerned  without 
he  apphcation  of  which 
the  cause  of  a  peculiar 
xtent  of  the  Greenland 
rcen,  and  the  water  is 
)  that  which  bears  the 
io  olive  waters  occujjy 
id  Sea,  or  above  twenty 
3nce  the  number  of  me- 
Y  contain  is  far  beyond 
timates  that  two  square 
1,000,000;  and  as  this 

of  human  words  and 
y  observing,  that  80,000 
loyed  since  the  creation 
!a  may  be  considered  as 
ere  whales  arc  always 

These  prodigious  ani- 
t  subsistence  from  such 
these  form  the  food  of 

1  then  support  others, 
luced  of  such  size  as  to 
ty  devourers.  The  ge- 
n  the  medusa,  appears 
d  importance.  It  pre- 
is  species  of  the  crab, 
whose  multitudes  rival 
ich  in  all  quarters  feed 
erous  are  the  propensi- 
that  joints  hung  out  by 
le  sides  of  the  ship  were 
rery  bone ;  and  nothing 
each  except  bodies  of 


ANIMAL  Lira. 


S9 


which  it  was  desired  to  obtain  the  skeleton.  Many 
of  the  zoophyti(^al  and  molluscousordcrs, particularly 
actinia  sepia,  and  several  species  of  marine  worms, 
are  also  employed  in  devouring  and  in  affording  food 
to  various  other  animals. 

Among  the  numberless  tribes  of  living  things  which 
people  the  northern  seas,  one  class  stands  highly 
conspicuous.  These  are  the  cetacea,  comprehending 
the  largest  of  existing  animals,  and  having  a  struc- 
ture wholly  (Ustinct  from  every  other  species.  Al- 
though their  home  be  entirely  in  the  depth  of  the 
waters,  they  have  several  features  in  common  with 
the  larger  quadrupeds.  They  belong  to  the  Linnaean 
class  of  mammalia,  or  suck-giving  animals ;  they 
produce  their  young  alive ;  their  skin  is  smooth  and 
without  scales;  their  blood  warm;  and  the  flesh 
tastes  somewhat  like  coarse  beef.  They  have  a 
heart  with  two  ventricles,  and  lungs  through  which 
they  respire ;  and  being  wiable  to  separate  the  air 
from  the  wattr,  as  fishes  do  by  means  of  their  gills, 
they  must  com,i  to  the  surface  in  order  to  breathe. 
It  is  thus  by  no  means  strictly  scientific  to  call  the 
whale  a  fish ;  yet  he  is  entirely  an  inb^tbitant  of  the 
sea,  having  a  tail,  though  placed  in  i  Terent  posi- 
tion from  that  of  ordinary  fislies,  wi  ^e  his  front 
limbs  much  more  resemble  fins  than  legs,  and  are 
solely  useful  for  pawing  the  deep.  Hence  the  vul- 
gar, following  a  natural  and  descriptive  classifica- 
tiau,  obstinately  continue  to  give  the  name  of  fish  to 
these  watery  monsters.  But  the  most  characteristic 
and  im|)ortant  feature  of  the  cetacea  consists  in  a 
tliick,  deep  layer  of  fatty  substance,  called  blubber, 
lodged  beneath  the  skin,  and  surrounding  the  body, 
which  yields,  on  expression,  nearly  its  own  bulk  of 
thick,  coarse,  viscid  oil.  It  is  by  this  covering  that 
Providence  enables  them  to  defy  the  most  dreadful 
extremities  of  cold,  and  to  preserve  a  strong  animal 
heat  even  under  the  eternal  ice  of  the  Pole.  Yet 
tiiis  substance,  being  subserneut  to  the  uses  of  maut 


66 


ANIMAL  tin. 


has  rouRod  a  dreadful  and  deadly  enemy,  who  em« 
ploya  affainit  them  the  resources  of  art, — a  [lower 
which  the  mif^hticst  brutal  fort-e  stekn  in  vain  to  op- 
pose. He  pursues  them  through  ice  and  tempest, 
and  dyes  all  the  northern  seas  with  their  blood. 
They  themselves  are  nicck,  penoeful,  slu(?gish  j  and 
man,  in  tho  dreadful  contests  which  he  wages  with 
them,  is  almost  always  the  aggressor ;  yet  the  resist- 
ance which  he  then  encounters  is  sometimes  terri- 
ble, and  liis  life  is  not  unfiequently  the  forfeit. 

Among  tlie  cetaceous  tribes  the  chief  place  is  due 
to  the  wfude,  of  all  animals  "  mightiest  tlint  swim 
the  ocean  stream."  Enormous  as  his  bulk  is,  ru- 
mour and  the  love  of  the  marvellous  have  repre- 
sented it  as  being  at  one  time  mucii  greater,  and  the 
existing  race  as  only  the  degenerate  remnant  of 
mightier  ancestors.  Mr.  Scoresby,  however,  by  col- 
lecting various  good  authorities,  has  proved  that 
sixty  feet  was  always  nearly  the  utmost  length  of 
the  mvsticeiui,  or  great  Greenland  whale.  Of  333 
individuals,  in  the  capture  of  which  that  gentleman 
was  concerned,  none  occurred  of  a  length  exceeding 
fiS  feet ;  and  he  gives  no  credence  to  any  rumour  of 
a  specimen  which  exceeded  70  feet.  Even  60  feet 
implies  a  weight  of  70  tons,  being  nearly  that  of 
three  hundred  fat  oxen.  Of  this  vast  mass,  the  oil 
in  a  rich  whale  composes  about  tliirty  tons,  and 
when,  as  was  the  case  some  years  aj^o,  that  article 
brought  £55  or  £60  per  ton,  we  may  form  some  idea 
of  the  great  value  of  the  capture ;  the  bones  of  the 
head,  fins,  and  tail  weigh  8  or  10 ;  tho  carcass,  30  or 
33  tons.  The  oleaginous  substance,  or  blubber,  the 
most  valuable  part  of  the  animal,  forms  a  complete 
wrapper  round  the  whole  body,  of  the  thickness  of 
from  8  to  20  inches.  Tlie  head  is  disproportionally 
large,  forming  about  a  third  of  the  entire  bulk.  The 
basis  consists  of  the  crovni-bonc,  from  each  side  of 
which  descend  those  inunense  jaw-bones  which  are 
sometimes  preseated  to  our  wouderiug  eyes,  aud 


in:. 

sadly  enemy,  who  em- 
arcfig  of  art, — a  [lower 
Tt-e  seckd  in  vain  to  op- 
uii(;h  ice  and  tonipcHt, 
wna  with  their  blood. 
[Miiioeful,  sluj^gish ;  and 

which  he  wages  with 
fgressor ;  yet  the  rcsist- 
^ers  is  sonactimes  teni- 
uently  the  forfeit. 
8  the  chief  place  is  due 

"mightiest  that  Rwim 
>UB  as  his  bulk  is,  ni- 
narvcllous  have  rcpre- 
;  much  greater,  and  the 
egenerate  remnant  of 
resby,  however,  by  col- 
rities,  has  proved  that 
'  the  utmost  length  of 
snland  whale.    Of  333 

which  that  gentleman 
d  of  a  length  exceeding 
lence  to  any  rumour  of 
70  feet.  Even  60  feet 
,  being  nearly  that  of 

this  vast  muss,  the  oil 
about  tliirty  tons,  and 

years  ago,  that  article 
we  may  form  some  idea 
turc;  the  bones  of  the 
*  10 ;  the  carcass,  30  or 
bstance,  or  blubber,  the 
imal,  forms  a  complete 
ly,  of  the  thickness  of 
ad  is  disproportionally 
if  the  entire  bulk.  The 
one,  from  each  side  of 
e  jaw-bones  which  are 

wouderiug  eyes,  aud 


'*^M4i)!SisiHms-wmii%^^>^&>.m^g^mM^i 


ANIMAL    LirK. 


97 


which  the  whalers  placn  on  ilnrk  as  trophies  of  their 
fvucc^.ss,  iiiul  ill  ordiT  that  thu  fliio  oil  trontainRiI  in 
thorn  may  ooze  from  their  low«)r  cxtreniitieti.  llieite 
J;i«'-b<)nc!«  uru  from  16  to  SO  feet  in  length,  ami  ex- 
tend along  the  mouth  in  a  eiirv-  d  line,  till  they  meet 
and  form  a  Biwcies  of  crcscem.  The  lips,  nearly  SO 
feci  long,  disphiy,  when  open,  a  cavity  capable  of 
receiving  a  Bliip's  Jolly-boat  with  her  crew.  The 
whale  haH  no  external  ear ;  but,  when  the  skin  is  re- 
moved, a  small  aperture  is  discerned  for  the  admis- 
sion of  sound.  This  sense  accordingly  is  very  im- 
])erfect :  yet  the  animal,  by  a  quick  perception  of  all 
movements  made  on  the  water,  discovers  danger  at 
a  great  distance,  llie  eyes  are  proportionally  8ma!i, 
though  the  sense  of  seeing  is  acute ;  more  so,  however, 
through  clear  water  than  thrr  gh  an  aerial  mcdi\m>. 
But  the  most  unique  feature  m  the  structure  {'  this 
animal  consists  in  the  spirac/ei  or  blow-holes,  f  laced 
nearly  on  the  crown  of  tlic  head.  T>cse  hs re  ucen 
compared  to  natural  je(«  (Feau  throwing  up  'vater  to 
the  height  of  40  or  60  feet;  Lit  the  m-'  '  careful 
scrutiny  of  Mr.  Scoresby  ascertained,  that  they  emit 
only  a  moist  vapour,  and  are  neither  more  nor  less 
than  huge  nostrils.  When,  however,  this  vehem  u 
breathing  or  blowing  is  performed  under  the  aurfat  <, 
a  considerable  quantity  of  water  is  thr>  -<  ip  into 
the  air.  The  sound  thus  occasioned  is  t  c  <  a^  y  thing 
like  a  voice  emitted  by  the  animal,  and  in  tl-o  case 
of  a  violent  respiration,  it  rescmblej  the  discharge 
of  a  cannon. 

The  tail  is  the  most  active  limb  of  this  mighty 
animal,  iind  the  chief  instrument  of  liis  motion. 
It  does  not  rise  vertically  like  that  of  most  fishes, 
being  flat  and  horizontal,  only  four  or  five  feet 
long,  but  more  than  twenty  feet  bro  }.  It  con< 
sists  of  two  beds  of  muscles  connected  with  an 
extensive  layer  sturounding  the  body,  and  enclosed' 
by  a  thin  covering  of  blubber.  Its  power  is  tre- 
mendous.   A  single  stroke  throws  a  large  boat  with 


■■iB 


68 


ANIMAt   LIFK. 


all  Its  crew  into  the  air.  Sometimes  the  whale 
places  himself  m  a  peri)endicular  position,  with  the 
head  downwards,  and,  rearing  his  tail  on  high,  beats 
the  water  with  awful  violence.  On  these  occasions 
the  sea  foams,  and  vapoure  darken  the  air;  the  lash- 
ing 18  heard  several  mUss  off  like  the  roar  of  a  dis- 
tant tempest.  Sometimes  e  makes  an  immense 
spring,  and  rears  his  whole  body  above  the  waves, 
to  the  admiration  of  the  experienced  whaler,  hut  to 
theterrorof  those  who  see  for  the  first  time  this  asto- 
nishing spectacle.  Other  motions,  equally  expressive 
of  his  boundless  strength,  attract  tiie  attention  of  the 
navigator  at  the  distance  of  miles. 

The  fins,  called  by  the  French  nageoires,  and  by 
Dr.. Fleming  "swimming  paws,"  are  placed  imme- 
dialtely  behind  the  eyes.    They  are  nine  feet  long, 
enclosed  by  very  elastic  membranes,  and  provided 
with  bones  similar  in  form  and  number  to  .those  of 
the  human  hand.    Such  is  the  spring  and  vitaUty 
of  the  parts,  that,  if  we  may  believe  De  Reste,  they 
continue  to  move  fortome  time  after  being  separated 
from  the  body.    According  to  Mr.  Scoresby,  however, 
while  the  whale  swims,  these  organs  lie  flat  on  the 
surface  of  the  water,  and  are  not  at  all  instrumental  in 
producing  his  motion,  which  arises  entirely  from  the 
tail.    The  fins  merely  direct  and  steady  the  move- 
ment, and  thus  serve  rather  as  a  helm  than  as  oars. 
The  period  of  gestation  in  the  whale  is  nine  or  ten 
months,  and  the  female  brings  forth  in  February  or 
March.    She  is  viviparous ;  that  is,  the  young  come 
forth  alive,  not  enclosed  in  an  egg;  and  there  is  usu- 
ally only  one  at  a  time.    These  delicate  nurslings, 
only  about  fourteen  feet  long,  and  weighinglittle  more 
than  a  ton,  are  watched  over  by  the  mother  with  the 
most  tender  care.    The  whalers  strike  these  suckers^ 
as  they  are  called,  not  on  account  of  their  own  valuer 
but  under  the  assurance  that  the  mother  will  t  ^ait 
.  forth  in  their  defence.  Then  ensues  a  contest  hard  and 
perilous,  but  commonly  attended  with  a  prosperous 


":Viv'V,\.;^;^:r^';t^^^;^^;.^-i,>'y;f;: . 


*  'H^kU^.^KM'^  -::L^-^ 


LIFK. 

Sometimes  the  whale 
icular  position,  with  the 
ig  his  tail  on  high,  beats 
!e.  On  these  occasions 
arken  the  air ;  the  lash- 
'  bke  the  roar  of  a  dis- 
e  makes  an  immense 
body  above  the  waves, 
;erienced  whaler,  but  to 
the  first  time  this  asto- 
ions,  equally  expressive 
ract  tiie  attention  of  the 
miles. 

ench  nageoires,  and  by 
na,^  are  placed  imme- 
ley  are  nme  feet  long, 
mbranes,  and  provided 
iid  number  to  -those  of 
ho  spring  and  vitaUty 
believe  De  Reste,  they 
le  after  being  separated 
Mr.  Scoresby,  however, 
organs  lie  ilat  on  the 
ot  at  all  instrumental  in 
irises  entirely  from  the 
and  steady  the  move- 
s  a  helm  than  as  oars, 
he  whale  is  nine  or  ten 
i  forth  in  February  or 
hat  is,  the  young  come 
egg;  and  there  is  asu- 
ese  delicate  nurslings, 
nd  weighinglittle  more 
Ijy  the  mother  with  the 
;rs  strike  these  suckera, 
unt  of  their  own  valuer 
the  mother  will  t^ait 
sues  a  contest  hard  and 
led  with  a  prosperous 


ANIMAL  LIFE. 


S9 


issue,  for  she  never  seeks  safety  in  flight.  She  rushes 
upon  the  boat,  drags  the  line  with  extraordinary  force, 
tosses  to  and  fro  with  extreme  agony,  and  suffers  her- 
self  to  be  struck  by  repeated  harpoons  without  at- 
tempting to  escape ;  while  the  good-natured  captain 
has  his  triumphant  feelings  damped  by  the  considera- 
tion, that  his  prize  has  fallen  the  victim  to  such  an 
tf  ardour  of  maternal  tenderness.  According  to  iniXca- 
tions  afforded  by  notches  in  the  whalebone,  which 
seem  not,  however,  very  fully  established,  the  whale 
does  not  attain  his  full  growth  under  twenty-five 
years,  and  is  said  to  reach  a  very  great  age. 

There  is  a  considerable  variety  of  whales.  The 
balcma  physalis  {balanoptera  gibbar  of  La  Cep^de), 
called  by  the  sailors  razorback,  is  considerably  longer 
than  the  mj'sticetus ;  and  though  his  circumference 
b  ;•  smaller,  he  is  on  the  whole  a  still  larger  and  more 
powerful  anin.iil.  He  is  also  swifter,  swimming  at 
the  rate  of  twelve  miles  an  hour;  and  Mr.  Scoresby 
has  seen  him,  when  struck  with  a  haipoon,  run  off 
480  fathoms  of  line  in  a  minute.  An  imiividual  of 
this  species,  found  dead  in  Davis's  Straits,  measured 
105  feet  in  length;  he  is,  however,  a  dangerous 
species  to  attack,  as,  by  the  extreme  rapidity  of  his 
motion,  he  often  breaks  the  line,  or  obliges  the  sailors 
to  cut  it  ill  order  to  escape  destruction.  Martens 
mentions  a  whale  of  this  kind,  which  dragged  a  boat 
with  it?^  crew  among  loose  ice,  where  they  all 
periihed.  As  this  fish  contains  only  ten  or  twelve 
to'.is  of  oil,  of  an  inferior  quality,  the  whalers  gene- 
ially  shmi  his  encounter,  unless  when  they  are  dis- 
posed for  a  daring  adventure,  or  mistake  him,  as  they 
frequently  do,  for  a  mysticetus.  Besides  the  two 
pectoral  fins,  he  has  a  horny  protuberance  or  fin  at 
the  extremity  of  the  back,  which  part  of  the  body, 
instead  of  being  round  as  in  the  mj^sticetus,  rises 
into  a  narrow  ridge.  The  bultma  mu»aJus  ot 
broad-nosed  whale,  the  balcma  rostraia  or  beaked 
whalt,  and  the  baluma  boopt  or  finuei,  may  be  cou- 


torn 


60 


ANDfAl   UFE. 


sidered  as  razorbacks  on  a  smaller  scale,  with  certain 
specific  distinctions.  It  is  usually  these  smaller 
whales  that  frequent  the  coasts  of  Norway  and 
Shetland,  and  sometimes  make  their  appeam'ncc  in 
the  British  firths ;  but  neither  they  nor  the  physalis 
ever  attract  the  attention  of  an  experienced  Asher. 

The  only  species  besides  the  mysticctus,  which  is 
the  6bject  of  regular  whaling  operations,  is  the  cacha- 
tot  {phyieter  microps)  or  spermaceti  whale.  This 
variety  occurs  occasionally  in  the  northern  seas, 
especially  on  the  American  coast,  but  abounds  chiefly 
in  the  waters  bordering  on  the  Antarctic  zone,  and 
is  the  main  object  of  pursuit  in  the  southern  fisherj'. 
The  cachalot  does  not  seem  to  have  met  Mr. 
Scoresby's  observation,  although  a  male  was  thro\vn 
ashore  at  Limekilns  on  the  Forth,  as  described  by 
Sir  Robert  Sibbald;  but,  according  to  the  dcscrip« 
tion  of  De  Reste  and  others,  this  species  is  distin- 
guished by  a  long  row  of  teeth  on  the  lower  and 
none  on  theupper  jaw ;  the  back  has  a  peculiar  form, 
with  a  small  bunch  behind :  the  tail  is  of  extraordi- 
nary breadth.  The  cachalot  appears  in  large  herds, 
while  the  mysticetus,  called  by  our  fishers  the  right 
whale,  is  found  usually  single.  These  bands  vciy 
often  amount  to  two  himdred,  which  are  said  to  be 
mostly  female,  under  the  guidance  usually  of  a  msde 
of  very  large  dimensions.  To  attack  them  is  a  for- 
midable undertaking;  but  success  is  very  advan- 
tageous, since  ten  or  twelve  sometimes  fall  in  one 
encounter.  The  perils  and  adventures  of  this  fishery 
are  described  as  almost  exceeding  belief;  for  which 
reason  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  Captain  Day's 
modesty  makes  him  decline  recounting  any  of  those 
which  he  witnessed.  The  quantity  of  oil  is  much 
smaller  than  in  the  mysticetus,  not  usually  exceed- 
ing three  tons ;  but,  from  its  being  mixed  with  the 
substance  called  spermaceti,  is  far  superior  in  value. 
The  latter  kind  of  oil,  while  warm,  is  fluid ;  but  on 
being  poui«d  into  hot  water  it  congeals  into  Iarg« 


il«aiampiHMH«iianKK: 


•IFE* 

sailer  scale,  with  certain 

usually  these  smaller 
;oasts  of  Norway  and 
ike  their  apMara'ncc  in 
3r  they  nor  the  physalis 
an  experienced  Asher. 
the  mysticctus,  which  is 
operations,  is  the  cacha- 
lermaceti  whale.    This 

in  the  northern  seas, 
3ast,but  abounds  chiefly 
the  Antarctic  zone,  and 
in  the  southern  fishery. 
Bern  to  have  met  Mr. 
lugh  a  male  was  thro\vn 
Forth,  as  described  by 
cording  to  the  dcscrip- 
s,  this  species  is  distin- 
eeth  on  the  lower  and 
ack  has  a  peculiar  form, 
the  tail  is  of  extraordi- 

appears  in  large  herds, 
by  our  fishers  the  right 
;le.  These  bands  \eiy 
d,  which  are  said  to  be 
dance  usually  of  a  male 
Fo  attack  them  is  a  for- 
success  is  very  advan- 

sometimes  fall  in  one 
dventuree  of  this  fishery 
eding  belief;  for  which 
d  that  Captain  Day's 
recounting  any  of  those 
luantity  of  oil  is  much 
us,  not  usually  exceed- 

being  mixed  with  the 
is  far  superior  in  value, 
warm,  is  fluid ;  but  on 

it  congeals  into  Iarg« 


ANnCAL  LITE. 


01 


flakes.  This  whale  yields  also  the  peculiar  aromatic 
substance  called  ambergris,  formed  under  peculiar 
circumstances  in  the  rectum,  and  voided  as  feces. 

Another  species,  called  the  narwal,  about  sixteen 
feet  long  and  eight  in  circumference,  appears  to  difler 
little  from  a  small  whale,  except  in  a  tusk  projecting 
from  his  upper  jaw,  three  to  ten  feet  in  length,  which, 
suggesting  to  the  sailors  the  idea  of  a  horn,  has  pro- 
cured for  him  the  appellation  of  the  sea-unicorn.  He 
is  swift,  yet  is  taken  without  much  difficulty,  and 
3rield8  two  or  three  tons  of  very  fine  oil.  The  dol- 
phin, another  cetaceous  animal  of  poetic  fame,  occa- 
sionally occurs ;  and  the  grampus  appears  often  in 
numerous  herds,  guided  by  some  of  larger  size.  The 
beluga,  or  white  whale,  is  also  a  small  species,  dis- 
tinguished chiefly  by  its  colour. 

All  the  shores  and  borders  of  the  Arctic  zone  are 
crowded  with  huge  amphibious  races,  which  appear 
to  form  an  intermediate  link  between  whales  and 
quadrupeds, — the  tnammalia  of  the  sea  and  those  of 
the  land.  Among  these  is  to  be  distinguished  the 
morse  or  walrus  (irichecus  rosmarus),  which  bears 
buch  a  resemblance  to  our  domestic  quadrupeds, 
that  sailors,  according  to  their  various  impres- 
sions, have  given  it  the  title  of  sea-horse  or  sea- 
cow.  It  is  a  large,  shapeless,  unwieldy  creature,  12 
to  15  feet  in  length,  and  from  8  to  10  in  circum- 
ference ;  the  head  small,  the  limbs  short,  of  an  inter- 
mediate character  between  fins  and  legs.  As  a  de- 
fence against  the  extreme  cold,  these  animals  not 
only  have  skins  an  inch  thick,  covered  with  close 
hair,  but  enjoy  like  th».  other  cetacea  a  coating  of  oily 
felt,  with  which  their  bodies  are  completely  enveloped. 
Thus  cased,  they  lie  stretched  on  the  ice  in  the  depth 
of  winter,  without  suffering  any  inconvenience.  The 
most  remarkable  feature  of  the  walrus,  however,  con- 
sists in  two  teeth  or  tusks,  which  project  in  a  curved 
line  from  the  upper  jaw,  and  are  nearly  two  feet  in 
length.  They  are  of  beautiful  white  bone,  almost 
F 


fe 


62 


AinKAI.  LtFS. 


equal  to  ivory,  and  mnch  used  in  the  fabrication  of 
artificial  teeth.  The  front  face,  when  seen  at  a 
little  distance,  bears  a  strikins^  resemblance  to  the 
human;  and  its  appearance  is  suspected  to  have 
sometimes  ^ven  rise  to  the  fanciful  reports  of  mer« 
maids  seen  m  the  northern  seas.  Like  all  the  ceta- 
ceous tribes,  to  which  the  walrus  is  allied,  he  is  dis- 
posed to  be  peaceful  and  harmless.  Captain  Parry 
describes  the  supine  security  with  which  a  number 
of  theTi  lay  on  the  ice,  piled  over  each  other,  without 
discomposing  themselves  at  the  approach  of  a  party 
armed  for  their  destruction.  But  they  were  doubt- 
less not  aware  of  the  deadly  weapons  with  which 
man  is  armed,  while  his  physical  iispect  displays 
nothing  with  which  they  might  not  deem  themselves 
fully  qualified  to  cope.  In  Spitzbergen,  where  thoy 
have  been  long  the  object  of  chase  to  the  Russian 
hunters,  they  are  reported  to  keep  very  strict  watch; 
it  being-said  that  one  stands  guard  wliile  the  others 
sleep.  Even  when  sensible  of  danger,  they  are  not 
forward  to  face  it,  but  rather  shun  the  attack  by 
rushing  beneath  the  ice,  when  those  behind,  with 
their  tusks,  urge  forward  their  companions.  Yet 
when  at  length  compelled  to  combat,  they  give  battle 
with  the  utmost  coolness  and  courage;  they  then 
stand  firm  by  each  other,  rush  in  one  united  body 
against  the  boats,  and,  striking  with  their  tusks,  en- 
deavour to  overset  them.  When  repulsed  too,  they 
repeatedly  rally,  and  yield  finally  only  to  the  fire- 
arms of  Europeans,  or  to  the  stratagems  of  the  Es- 
quimaux. Maternal  tenderness,  and  the  determina- 
tion with  which  the  female  defends  her  young,  are 
equally  conspicuous  in  them  as  in  members  of  the 
whale  species. 

The  seal,  an  animal  well  known  on  all  the  shores 
of  Europe,  need  not  be  particularly  described.  The 
Arctic  species  are  distinguished  by  their  very  great 
numbers,  and  by  the  various,  or  rather  universal 
purposes  to  which  they  are  applied  by  the  Esqui- 


L':«K^d^-:>?.''_4fMMil 


L>:L-?i<«M».«MMK*.na<-3^.MbW^Mwx~t 


V. 

in  the  fabrication  of 
ice,  when  seen  at  a 
f  resemblance  to  the 
IS  suspected  to  have 
leiful  reports  of  mer- 
8.  Like  all  the  ceta- 
vs  is  allied,  he  is  dis* 
less.  Captain  Parry 
ivith  whicn  a  number 
er  each  other,  without 
e  approach  of  a  party 
But  they  were  doubt- 
weapons  with  which 
sical  aspect  displays 
not  deem  themselves 
itzbergen,  where  thoy 
;hasc  to  the  Russian 
eep  very  strict  watch ; 
jard  wliile  the  others 

■  danger,  they  are  not 

■  shun  the  attack  by 
n  those  behind,  with 
ir  companions.  Yet 
)mbat,  they  give  battle 
I  courage;  they  then 
1  in  one  united  body 

with  their  tusks,  en- 
len  repulsed  too,  they 
ally  only  to  the  fire- 
tratagems  of  the  £»• 
IS,  and  the  determina- 
i  fends  her  young,  are 
s  in  members  of  the 

)wn  on  all  the  shores 
larly  described.  The 
d  by  their  very  great 
or  rather  universal 
}plied  by  the  Esqui- 


ANIMAL  LTTE.  68 

maux.  They  furnish  food  for  his  table,  oil  for  hia 
lamp,  clothing  for  his  person ;  even  their  bones  and 
skin  supply  materials  for  his  light  portable  boats  and 
his  summer  tents. 

Before  quitting  the  polar  seas  we  must  notice  an- 
other inhabitant,  whose  migrations  render  it  familiar 
to  all  the  coasts  of  Europe.  These  waters,  as 
already  observed,  apparently  so  chill  and  ungenial, 
contain  not  only  an  am{>le  store  of  animal  life,  but  a 
vast  superabundance,  with  which  they  supply  all  the 
seas  of  the  temperate  climates.  From  them  in  par- 
ticular, if  we  may  believe  the  Dutch  writers,  are  de- 
rived the  extenbive  and  valuable  tribes  of  the  herring. 
Their  immense  bands  break  up  from  their  frozen 
depths  about  January,  and  in  March  appear  on  th^ 
coast  of  Iceland.  Their  column  at  this  time,  con- 
fined between  Greenland  and  the  North  Cape,  is  of 
comparatively  small  breadth,  but  so  dense  that  the 
water  is  darkened  by  them ;  any  wooden  vessel  let 
down  brings  up  several :  they  may  even  be  taken  by 
the  stroke  of  a  lance.  They  follow  certain  of  their 
number  larger  than  the  rest,  called  kings.  These 
kings  are  held  in  much  respect  by  the  Dutch,  who 
studiously  spare  their  majesties,  and  even  liberate 
them  when  found  in  the  net,  lest,  deprived  of  this 
royal  guidance,  the  nation  should  not  find  the  way  to 
their  accustomed  haunts.  After  emerging  from  the 
Greenland  sea,  this  great  army  divides  into  two 
wings,  of  which  the  right  and  largest  bears  down  di- 
rectly upon  Scotland ;  at  the  north-eastern  extremity 
of  which  it  forms  that  immense  field,  in  which  the 
Dutch  for  so  many  years  carried  on  their  great  na- 
tional fishery.  They  are  now  rivalled  by  the  boat- 
men of  Wick  and  Thurso.  A  detaclunent  smallei  in 
number,  but  some  of  which  attain  to  superior  excel- 
lence, fills  the  western  bays  of  Scotland,  and  passing 
along  Ireland,  reaches  the  neighbouring  coast  of 
France.  Meantime  the  left  or  smaller  wing,  after 
ranging  the  Noiwegian  shore,  has  entered  the  Baltic. 


@ 


64 


ANIMAL  LITK, 


In  July  all  these  advancing  divisions  halt,  and  by  tin 
unknown  impulse  beffin  to  retrace  their  course  to- 
wards their  northern  home.  De  Reste  considers  it 
certain,  that  the  herrings,  in  returning,  have  a  gene- 
ral point  of  rendezvous  not  yet  discovered ;  but  it 
should  seem  that  only  the  actual  discovery  of  this 
rendezvous  can  ascertain  its  existence.  However, 
about  the  end  of  September,  they  reach  their  resi- 
dences beneath  the  ices  of  the  Pole,  where  they  re- 
main three  months;  all  the  rest  of  the  year  being 
spent  in  wandenng  over  the  face  of  the  ocean. 

Although  the  object  of  Providence  in  leading  the 
herring  this  immense  annual  round  is  dou'^tless  that 
of  furnishing  food  to  numerous  animals,  and  espe- 
cially to  man,  yet  tlie  immediate  impulse  by  which 
they  are  urged  to  so  extensive  and  regular  a  move- 
ment has  been  the  subject  of  much  controversy. 
Anderson  supposes  that  they  fly  before  the  numerous 
large  fishes  which  fill  the  Arctic  seas,  and  by  wliich 
they  are  pursued  and  devoured,  and  that  they  form 
themselves  into  close  bands  with  a  view  to  self-de- 
fence. But  the  regular  course  which  they  follow, 
year  after  year,  and  their  constant  return  at  a  fixed 
period,  suggests  nothing  of  that  tumultuous  flight 
which  such  a  panic  woula  have  prompted.  It  seems 
more  probablie,  that  they  are  led  by  those  instincts 
which  guide  fishes  tp  deposite  their  spawn  in  places 
remote  and  dissimilar  to  their  usual  abode.  The  fe- 
male herring,  when  taken  on  the  coast  of  Britain,  is 
found  commonly  to  contain  a  roe,  and  as  this  roe 
comprises  the  embi^o  of  ten  thousand  future  her- 
rings, such  a  prodigious  fecundity  easily  repairs  all 
the  havoc  committed  upon  the  species,  not  oiUy  by 
its  brethren  of  the  deep,  but  also  by  the  ingenuity  of 
man  constantly  exerted  for  its  capture  and  destruc- 
tion. 

The  other  animals  which  frequent  the  Polar  re- 
gions belong  chiefly  or  wholly  to  the  land. 

In  the  caves  of  the  rocks,  or  in  the  hollows  of  the 


isions  halt,  and  by  tin 
irace  their  course  to- 
)e  Reste  considers  it 
iturning,  have  a  gene- 
ct  discovered ;  but  it 
ual  discovery  of  this 
jxistence.  However, 
hoy  reach  their  resi- 
Pole,  where  they  re- 
est  of  the  year  being 
ce  of  the  ocean, 
idence  in  leading  the 
)und  is  dou'^tlcss  that 
a  animals,  and  cspe- 
ite  impulse  by  which 
and  regidar  a  move- 
f  much  controversy. 
f  before  the  numerous 
iC  seas,  and  by  wliich 
I,  and  that  they  form 
ith  a  view  to  self-de- 
3  which  they  follow, 
tant  return  at  a  fixed 
lat  tumultuous  flight 
prompted.  It  seems 
led  by  those  instincts 
their  spawn  in  places 
isual  abode.  The  fe- 
le  coast  of  Britain,  is 
roe,  and  as  this  roe 
thousand  future  her- 
lity  easily  repairs  eil 
species,  not  only  by 
o  by  the  ingenuity  of 
capture  and  destruc- 

squent  the  Polar  re- 

to  the  land. 

in  the  hollows  of  tbe 


y,  j»»«^  i.-i 


■■■■-^ammmm 


HHP 


ANIMAL   LIFE.  Q0 

ice,  dwells  the  moat  formidable  of  Arctic  quadru< 
pods,  the  Greenland  or  Polar  bear.  This  fierce  ty- 
rant of  the  cliffs  and  snows  of  the  north  unites  the 
strength  of  the  lion  with  the  imtameablc  fierceness 
of  the  hyena.  A  long  8haf,'tfy  covering  of  white  soft 
hair  and  a  tsopious  supply  of  fat  enable  hlin  to  defy 
the  winter  of  this  rigorous  climate.  Under  the  heat 
of  Britain  he  suffers  the  most  painful  sensations; 
Pennant  saw  one,  over  whom  it  was  necessary  from 
time  to  time  to  pour  largo  pailfuls  of  water.  An- 
other, kept  for  some  years  by  piofessor  Jameson, 
evidently  sufftired  severely  from  the  lieatof  an  Edin- 
burgh  summer.  The  haunt  of  the  bear  is  on  the 
dreary  Arctic  shores,  or  on  mountains  of  ice,  some- 
tinaes  two  hundred  miles  from  land ;  yet  he  is  not 
strictly  speaking,  amphibious.  He  caimot  remait 
under  water  above  a  few  moments,  and  he  reacho 
his  maritime  stations  only  by  swimming  from  or* 
icy  fragment  to  another.  Mr.  Scoresby  limits  the 
swimming  reach  to  three  or  four  miles ;  yet  Parrt 
found  one  in  the  centre  of  Barrow's  Strait,  where  i 
was  forty  miles  across.  This  bear  prowls  continu- 
ally for  liis  prey,  which  consists  chiefly  of  the  smallel 
cetacea  and  or  seals,  which,  unable  to  contend  with 
him,  shun  their  fate  by  keeping  strict  watch,  and 
plunging  into  the  depths  of  the  waters.  With  the 
walrus  he  holds  dreadful  and  doubtful  encounters; 
and  that  powerful  animal,  with  his  enormous  tusks, 
frequently  beats  him  off  with  great  damage.  The 
whale  he  dares  not  attack,  but  watches  anxiously 
for  the  huge  carcass  in  a  dead  state,  which  affords 
him  a  prolonged  and  delicious  feast :  he  scents  it  at 
the  distance  of  miles.  All  these  sources  of  supply 
being  precarious,  he  is  sometimes  left  for  weeks 
without  food,  and  the  fury  of  his  hunger  then  be- 
comes tremendous.  At  such  periods,  man,  viewed 
by  him  always  as  his  prey,  is  attacked  with  peculiar 
fierceness. 
The  auuals  of  the  north  are  filled  with  accounts 
F3 


66 


AMTIIAL  I.mS. 


of  the  most  Tierilous  and  fatal  conflicts  of  the  Polar 
bear.  The  flrst,  and  one  of  the  most  tragical,  was 
suHtained  by  Harentz  and  Heeniskerke,  in  16%,  dur- 
ing their  vovage  for  the  discovery  of  the  north-east 
passage,  (laving  anchored  at  an  island  near  the 
stiait  of  VVaygatz,  two  of  the  sailors  landed,  and 
w«  re  walking  on  shore,  when  one  of  tliem  felt  him- 
self closely  hugged  from  behind.  Thinking  this  a 
frolic  of  one  of  his  companions,  he  called  out  in  a 
corresponding  tone,  "Who's  there  t  pray  stand  off." 
His  comrade  looked,  and  screamed  out,  "A  bear!  a 
bear !"  then  running  to  the  ship,  alarmed  the  crew 
with  loud  cries.  The  sailors  ran  to  the  spot  armed 
with  pikes  and  muskets.  On  their  approach  the  bear 
very  coolly  quitted  the  mangled  corpse,  sprang  upon 
another  sailor,  carried  him  off,  and,  plunging  liis  teeth 
into  his  body,  began  drinking  his  blood  at  long 
draughts.  Hereupon  the  whole  of  that  stout  crew, 
struck  with  terror,  turned  their  backs,  and  fled  pre- 
cipitately to  the  ship.  On  arriving  there  they  began 
to  look  at  each  other,  imable  to  feel  much  satisfac- 
tion with 'their  own  prowess.  Three  then  stood 
forth,  undertaking  to  avenge  the  fate  of  their  country- 
men, and  to  secure  for  them  the  rites  of  burial. 
They  advanced,  and  fired  at  first  from  so  respectful 
a  distance  that  they  all  missed.  The  pivser  then 
courageously  proceeded  in  front  of  his  companions, 
and,  taking  a  close  aim,  pierced  the  monster's  skull 
immediately  below  the  eye.  The  bear,  however, 
merely  lifted  his  head,  and  advanced  upon  them, 
holding  still  in  his  mouth  the  victim  whom  he  was 
devouring;  but  seeing  him  soon  stagger,  the  three 
rushed  on  with  sabre  and  bayonet,  and  soon  de- 
spatched him.  They  collected  and  bestowed  decent 
sepulture  on  the  mangled  limbs  of  their  comrades, 
while  the  skin  of  the  animal,  thirteen  feet  long,  be- 
came the  prize  of  the  sailor  who  had  fired  the  suc- 
cessful shot. 
The  history  of  the  whale-fishers  records  a  number 


onflicts  of  the  Polar 
e  moat  tra^pcal,  waa 
lakerke,  in  1696,  dur> 
try  of  the  north-east 
nn  island  near  the 

0  sailore  landed,  nnd 
)ne  of  them  felt  him- 
id.  '{"hinkin^  this  a 
,  he  called  out  in  a 
ire  1  pray  stand  off." 
ned  out,  "  A  bear !  a 
p,  alarmed  the  crew 
in  to  the  spot  armed 
eir  approach  the  bear 

corpse,  sprang  upon 
id,  plunt^ni?  his  teeth 
',  his  blood  at  long 
)  of  that  stout  crew, 
backs,  and  fled  pre^ 
ing  there  they  bvgnn 

feel  much  sutisfac- 

Three  then  stood 
fate  of  theii  country« 

the  rites  of  burial. 
St  from  so  respectful 
i.  The  purser  then 
t  of  his  companions, 

1  the  monster's  skull 
The  bear,  however, 
Ivanced  upon  them, 
ictim  whom  he  was 
n  stagger,  the  three 
(ronet,  and  soon  de- 
and  bestowed  decent 
i  of  their  comrades, 
lirteen  feet  long,  be- 
0  had  fired  the  suc- 

!rs  records  a  niunber 


ANtMAt  urr.. 


m 


of  remarkable  escapee  from  the  bear.  A  Dutch  cap. 
tain,  Jonge  Kees,  in  1668,  undertook,  with  two  ca- 
noes to  attack  one,  and  with  a  lance  gave  him  so 
dreadful  a  wound  in  the  bellv,  that  his  immediate 
death  seemed  inevitable.  Anxious,  therefore,  not  to 
injure  the  skin,  Kees  merely  followed  the  animal 
close,  till  ho  should  drop  down  dead.  The  bear, 
however,  having  climbed  a  little  rock,  made  a  spring 
from  the  distance  of  twenty-four  feet  upon  the  cap- 
tain, who,  taken  completely  by  surprise,  lost  hold  of 
the  lance,  and  fell  ben>  nth  the  assailant,  who,  plac- 
ing both  paws  on  hiw  roast,  opened  two  rows  of 
tremendous  teeth,  and  paused  linr  a  momettt,  as  if 
to  show  him  all  the  horrors  of  his  situation.  At 
this  critical  instant,  a  sailor,  rushing  forward  with 
only  a  scoop,  succeeded  in  alarming  the  monster, 
who  made  off,  leaving  the  captain  without  the 
slightest  injury. 

In  1788,  Captain  Cook  of  the  Archangel,  when 
near  the  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  found  himself  sud- 
denly between  the  paws  of  a  bear.  He  instantly 
c^led  on  the  surgeon,  who  accompanied  him,  to  fire, 
which  the  latter  did  with  such  admirable  promptitude 
and  precision,  that  he  shot  the  beast  through  the 
head,  and  delivered  the  captain.  Mr.  Hawkins  of 
the  Everthorpe,  in  July,  1818,  having  pursued  and 
twice  struck  a  large  bear,  had  raised  his  lance  for  a 
third  blow,  when  the  animal  sprang  forward,  sei-'i'id 
him  by  the  thigh,  and  threw  liim  over  its  head  into 
the  water.  Fortunately,  it  used  this  advantage  only 
to  effect  its  own  escape.  Captain  Scoresby  men- 
tions a  boat's  crew  which  attacked  a  bear  in  the  Spitz- 
bergen sea;  but  the  animal  having  succeeded  in 
climbing  the  sides  of  the  boat,  all  the  sailors  threw 
themselves  for  safety  into  the  water,  where  they 
hung  by  the  jiinwale.  The  victor  entered  trium- 
phantly,  and  ttiok  possession  of  the  barge,  where  i; 
sat  quietly  till  it  was  shot  by  another  party.  The 
same  writer  mentions  the  ingenious  contrivance  of  a 


tarn 


t«ws«.il 


66 


ANIMAL   Uri. 


sailor,  who,  being  pursued  by  one  of  those  crcatnrcn, 
thrcwtlown  sui'ct'»»ively  iiis  hat.jaoket,  luinilliorchii'r, 
>uid  uvory  ottier  iirticlu  in  hiii  puttHctiHiun,  wlien  the 
brut«  puusiiiHT  ut  oach,  gave  tlie  sailor  alway«  a  cer- 
tain aavunlago,  and  enabled  liiui  Anally  to  regain  tlu> 
vosfiel. 

Though  the  voracity  of  the  bent  is  sufh,  that  ho 
has  been  known  to  feed  on  his  own  Hpecios,  yet  ma- 
tenial  tenderness  is  as  constiicuous  in  thn  femalu  aa 
in  other  inhabitants  of  the  frozen  regions.  There  is 
no  exertion  which  she  will  not  inukt!  for  the  supply 
of  her  proffeny.  A  she-bear,  with  her  two  cuIm, 
being  pursued  by  some  sailors  across  a  field  of  ico, 
and  finding  that,  neitlier  by  example,  nor  by  a  peculiar 
voice  and  fxtion,  she  could  urge  them  to  the  requisite 
•peed,  applied  her  paws  and  pitched  them  alternately 
forward.  The  little  creatures  themselves,  as  she 
came  up,  threw  themselves  before  her  to  receive  the 
impulse,  and  thus  both  she  and  they  effected  their 
escape. 

Bears  are  by  no  means  devoid  of  intelligence^ 
Ttieir  scihemes  for  entnipping  seals,  and  other  ani* 
mals  on  which  they  feed,  often  display  considerable 
ingenuity.  The  manner  in  which  the  Polar  iKsar  sur- 
prises his  victim,  is  thus  described  by  Captain  Lyon : 
— On  seeing  his  intended  prey,  he  gets  (|uietly  into 
the  water,  and  swims  to  a  leeward  position,  from 
■whence,  by  frequent  short  dives,  he  silently  makes 
his  approaches,  and  so  arranges  his  distance,  that  at 
the  last  dive  he  comes  to  the  sjiot  where  the  sesU  is 
lying.  If  the  pour  animal  attempts  to  e8ca[)e  by 
rolling  into  the  water,  he  falls  into  the  paws  of  the 
Dear ;  if,  on  the  contrary,  he  lies  still,  lus  destroyer 
makes  a  powerful  spring,  kills  him  on  the  ice,  and  de- 
vours him  at  leisure.  Some  sailors,  endeavouring  to 
catch  a  bear,  placed  the  noose  of  a  rope  under  the 
snow,  baited  Ayith  n  piece  of  whale's  flesh.  The 
bear,  hawevt;r,  contrived,  three  successive  times,  to 
push  the  noose  aside,  and  to  carry  off  the  bait  im« 


«pi 


rs. 

)iie  of  these  crcatiircn, 
t,Jm;k(!t,  hanilkcrchii'r, 
po8H('tiHiuii,  wlieii  the 
c  sailor  iilw!iy«  n  ccr- 
111  Aiiolly  to  regain  tits 

)  bear  is  sur-h,  that  ho 
*  own  HpocicH,  yet  rna- 
uouH  in  thn  femalu  ai 
con  r^Kions.  There  is 
)t  inakt)  for  the  supply 
,  with  her  two  cubs, 
ti  across  a  fleld  of  ico, 
niplo,  nor  by  u  peculiar 
;c  them  to  the  requisite 
iched  them  alternately 
s  themselves,  as  she 
fore  her  to  receive  the 
md  they  effected  their 

evoid  of  intelli{|;encek 
seals,  and  other  ani* 
1  display  considerable 
lich  the  I'ular  beav  sur- 
bed  by  Captain  Lyon : 
r,  he  gets  (|uietly  into 
!eward  position,  from 
fas,  he  silently  makes 
)s  his  distance,  that  at 
sjiot  where  the  seiU  is 
ttempts  to  e8ca[)o  by 
8  into  the  paws  of  the 
lies  still,  his  destroyer 
him  on  the  ice,  and  de> 
lilors,  ondeavouriiif;  to 
)  of  a  rope  under  the 
r  whale's  flesh.  'Hie 
c  successive  limes,  to 
carry  off  the  bait  ua« 


ANIHAI.    LIFF.. 


«0 


tiurt.  Captain  Scoreshy  had  half-tamod  two  cuh^b 
which  used  even  to  walk  tlie  diM^k ;  but  they  showed 
themselves  always  restless  under  Uiii  contineraent, 
and  Anally  etTected  their  escape. 

Aocordini^  to  Pennant  and  other  writers,  the  boar 
forms  chambers  in  the  ^reat  ice-mountains,  where  he 
sleeus  the  lont;  winter  ni^ht,  undisturlHMl  hy  the  roar 
of  tiic  northern  tempest ;  but  tliis  regular  hibernation 
is  doubted  by  many  n^oent  observers.  1%!  fact  seems 
to  be,  that  tlie  males  roam  about  all  winter  in  sean^h 
of  prey,  not  beiiift  under  the  same  necessity  of  sub- 
mitting to  the  torpid  state  as  the  black  bear  of  Ame- 
rica, which  feeds  chiefly  on  vegetable  food ;  but  the 
females,  who  are  usually  pregnant  during  the  more 
rigorous  season  of  the  year,  seclude  themselves  for 
nearly  the  entire  winter  in  their  dens. 

The  animals  which  belong  entirely  to  the  land,  and 
feed  on  herbage,  are,  in  a  climate  covered  deep  with 
snow  for  nine  months  in  the  year,  necessarily  few 
both  in  number  and  species.  The  reindeer,  a  most 
patient  and  useful  creature,  the  standing  inhabitant 
of  all  the  northern  lands,  reaches  nearly  as  far  as 
animal  life  can  subsist.  To  the  Laplander  he  is  all 
in  all ;  and  in  that  climate  he  can  always  dig  from 
under  the  snow  the  moss  or  lichen,  his  favourite 
food.  Even  in  the  severer  Arctic  climates  he  carries 
his  summer  excursions  as  far  as  men  have  yet  pene- 
trated ;  but  at  the  end  of  October  the  deeply-frozen 
earth  allows  him  no  longer  to  teach  even  tne  simple 
food  in  which  he  delights.  They  then  assemble  in 
largo  herds,  and  migrate  to  the  southward.  From 
Melville  Island  they  were  oven  seen  crossing  the 
frozen  surface  of  the  sea,  to  reach  a  milder  climate 
on  the  American  shore.  The  people  witliin  the 
Arctic  zone  do  not  tamo  the  reindeer,  or  yoke 
it  in  the  sledge;  it  is  not  even  for  them  the  staff 
of  life ;  but  it  affords  a  favourite  object  of  sum- 
mer chase,  ^ves  an  agreeable  variety  to  their 
meals,  and  yields  their  warmest  and  most  valuable 


70 


ANIMAL  tIFE. 


winter  robes.  The  fur-skin  becomes  always  richer 
and  more  copious  in  proportion  to  the  intensity  of 
the  cold,  against  which  it  forms  the  only,  but  a  suf- 
ficient defence.  In  the  chase  the  deer  fall  easy  vic- 
tims, even  to  the  rude  archery  of  the  Esquimaux, 
being  so  simple  and  curious,  that,  if  a  man  merely 
walks  away  from  them,  they  follow.  Some  of  these 
animals  who  joined  Captain  Parry's  crews  on  Mel- 
ville Island  played  romid  them  like  lapdogs,  and  at 
setting  oilt  in  the  morning  used  to  gambol  by  rearing 
on  their  hind-legs.  The  musk-ox,  the  only  member 
of  the  bovine  species  which  penetrates  the  Arctic 
zone,  though  in  smaller  numbers,  affords  a  wholesome 
and  agreeable  variety  of  food.    Its  unwieldy  form  is 

Protected  from  the  cold  by  an  immense  profusion  of 
air,  which  envelopes  its  whole  limbs  and  figure,  and 
also  by  an  interior  layer  of  wool,  which  appeared  to 
Pennant  the  finest  he  had  ever  seen,  and  made,  he 
Avas  told,  stockings  superior  to  the  ricliest  silk.  This 
last,  we  suspect,  is  a  temporary  winter  clothing. 

The  canine  race  affords  several  species  which 
brave  the  most  extreme  severity  of  the  Arctic  cold, 
and  remain  after  every  other  land-quadruped,  except 
the  bear,  has  taken  its  flight  to  the  southward. 
Wolves,  in  considerable  packs,  continue  still  to  seek 
their  prey  in  the  utmost  depths  of  the  Polar  winter. 
It  seems  difficult  to  discover  what  food  they  find  at 
that  season ;  but  a  regular  pack  attended  the  English 
discovery-ships,  watching  for  whatever  oflal  might 
bf  found  exposed,  and  serenading  them  with  nightly 
bowlings.  As  if  by  a  sort  of  tacit  convention,  they 
did  not  presume  to  attack  the  sailors,  but  they  ad- 
vanced  in  a  most  daring  manner  to  the  sides  of  the 
ships,  and  sometimes  even  entered  the  huts  of  the 
Esquimaux,  whose  dogs  they  esteemed  the  choicest 
rize,  and  \ery  speedily  devoured  them.  The  natives 
catch  them  by  traps  formed  of  little  sheds  of  ice,  at 
whose  entrance  is  a  portcullis  of  the  same  material, 
comiected  in  such  a  maimer  with  the  bait  within, 


Wi>^.»))'fliaB«»yiti:ffi'i!i;>«iiiy 


E. 

comes  always  richer 
)n  to  the  intensity  of 
}  the  only,  but  a  suf- 
he  deer  fall  easy  vic- 
Y  of  the  Esquimaux, 
hat,  if  a  man  merely 
low.  Some  of  these 
arry's  crews  on  Mel- 
i  like  lapdogs,  and  at 
to  gambol  by  rearing 
•ox,  the  only  member 
lenetrates  the  Arctic 
,  affords  a  wholesome 
Its  unwieldy  form  is 
mmense  profusion  of 
limbs  and  figure,  and 
»1,  which  appeared  to 
rseen,  and  made,  he 
he  richest  silk.  This 
winter  clothing, 
veral  species  which 
y  of  the  Arctic  cold, 
id-quadruped,  except 
to  the  southward, 
continue  still  to  seek 
of  the  Polar  winter, 
hat  food  they  find  at 
attended  the  English 
whatever  oflal  might 
ig  them  with  nightly 
icit  convention,  they 
sailors,  but  they  ad- 
r  to  the  sides  of  the 
ered  the  huts  of  the 
rteemed  the  choicest 
1  them.  The  natives 
ittle  sheds  of  ice,  at 
f  the  same  material, 
ith  the  bait  within, 


AltnifAL   LIFE 


71 


that,  whe»  the  latter  is  seized  by  the  animal,  the  port- 
cullis drops,  and  the  wolf  is  taken.  Their  tenacity 
of  life  is  such  as  often,  after  apparent  death,  to  cause 
surprises  and  even  dangers.  The  Arctic  fox,  a 
small  beautiful  white  animal,  with  woolly  hair  like  a 
little  shock-dog,  occurs  in  still  greater  numbers. 
About  a  hundred  were  cauglit  inCapt.  Parry's  second 
voyage,  some  of  which  were  half-tamed  and  made  pets 
of;  while  others,  by  a  harder  fate,  were  dressed  for 
table ;  and  their  flesh,  somewhat  resembling  kid,  af 
forded  an  agreeable  relief  from  the  constant  use  of 
salted  meat. 

The  dog,  however,  is  the  most  important  quadniped 
of  the  Arctic  world,  and  the  most  valuable  possession 
of  its  people,  who  have  succeeded  in  taming  and 
rendering  it  equally  valuable  for  draught  and  hunting. 
The  dogs  of  the  Greenlander,  the  Esquimaux,  and 
the  Kamtchadale,  are  large,  and  of  a  somewhat  wild 
aspect.    Captain  Lyon  describes  them  as  resembling 
ii  form  the  shepherd's  dog,  rising  to  the  height  of  the 
Newfoundland,  but  broad  like  the  mastiff,  having 
short  pricked  ears,  a  furry  coat,  and  a  bushy  tail.    In 
general,  they  are  observed  to  bear  a  strong  resem- 
nance  to  the  wolf,  and  the  opinion  is  even  prevalent 
tfiat  they  are  neither  more  nor  less  than  tamed  wolves. 
Pi^rry  and  Richardson  both  mention  instances  in 
which  domestic  dogs  were  seduced  away  by  the  at- 
tractions of  female  wolves ;  yet  the  avidity  with 
which  the  wolf  devours  these,  his  supposed  tame 
brethren,  does  not  seem  very  indicative  of  so  close 
an  aflinity.     Nature,  with  provident  care,  defends 
them  against  the  cold,  not  only  by  a  profusion  of 
long  hair,  but  by  a  soft  downy  covering,  formed  be- 
neathit  at  the  commencement  of  winter,  and  shed  at 
the  approach  of  the  milder  season.    The  Esquimaux 
are  much  reproached  for  their  harsh  treatment  of 
these  valuable  servants ;  yet  in  infancy  they  are  used 
with  tenderness,  the  women  often  taking  the  young 
puppies  into  bed,  and  feeding  them  from  their  owa 


BiMM 


72 


AKIMAt  LIFE. 


months.    As  soon  as  they  can  walk  they  are  yoked 
to  a  small  sledge ;  in  endeavouring  to  shake  off  which 
encumbrance  they  learn  to  draw  it.    Severe  and  fre- 
quent beatings,  however,  are  necessary  to  train  them 
for  actmg  as  a  regular  team.    But  their  most  severe 
pnvation  is  in  food ;  of  which,  during  the  season  of 
scarcity,  they  obtain  a  portion  barely  sufficient  to 
maintain  life,  and  not  at  all  to  prevent  them  from 
ftlhng  into  a  state  the  most  meager  and  debilitated. 
Their  hunger  is  manifested  by  the  nature  of  the  sab- 
stances  with  which  they  sometimes  seek  to  assuage 
it.    Captain  Parry  saw  one  which  ate  a  large  piece 
of  canvass,  a  cotton  handkerchief  laid  out  to  dry, 
and  apiece  of  a  linen  shirt.   The  Esquimaux,  we  must 
recollect,  are  subject  to  severe  scarcities,  and  the 
food  of  the  dogs  being  the  same  with  their  own,  the 
animals,  on  such  emergencies,  can  scarcely  expect 
to  be  placed  on  a  footing  of  equality.    This  rough 
usage  does  not  seem  incompatible  with  a  measure  of 
solid  attachment  to  these  valuable  servants.    The 
natives  refused  to  sell  them  to  the  English,  till  assured 
that  they  would  not  be  killed.    They  rejoiced  greatly 
to  see  a  house  built  for  them ;  and  at  every  visit  a 
friendly  recognition  took  place  between  the  dog  and 
nis  old  master.    Wlien  the  animals  are  yoked  in  the 
sledge,  a  whip  of  twenty  feet  long  enforces  obedi- 
ence, while  peculiar  cries  indicate  the  right  or  left,  to 
turn  or  to  stop.    Three  dogs  could  draw  a  sledg« 
weighing  lOOlbs.,  at  the  rate  of  a  mile  in  six  minutes, 
and  one  leader  has  drawn  ISeibs.  the  same  distance 
m  eight  minutes.    A  full  team,  however,  comprises 
eight  or  ten  dogs ;  though  seven  have  drawn  a  full' 
sledge  at  the  rate  of  a  mile  in  four  minutes  and  a 
Imlf;  while  nine,  employed  in  conveying  stores  from 
the  Hecla  to  the  Fury,  drew  161  libs,  in  nine  mi- 
nutes.   Capt. Lyon  reports  most  favou.ably  of  th« 
team  which  he  himself  formed,  who  used  to  draw 
him  from  ship  to  shin,  a  mile  distant,  in  the  {leeppst 
daikness  and  amid  clouds  of  snow-drift,  with  the 


-m- 


iiiii|tawiWW>#8ligiW'W»lii;iWji»lf>ll<|»r|WtiP^ 


walk  they  are  yoked 
ing  to  shake  off  which 
V  it.    Severe  and  fre- 
cesaary  to  train  them 
Jilt  their  most  severe 
during  the  season  of 
1  barely  sufficient  to 
J  prevent  them  from 
jager  and  debilitated, 
he  nature  of  the  s;jb- 
mes  seek  to  assuaj;e 
ich  ate  a  large  piece 
lief  laid  out  to  dry, 
Esquimaux,  we  must 
1  scarcities,  and  the 
3  with  their  own,  the 
can  scarcely  expect 
liiality.    This  rough 
ie  with  a  measure  of 
able  servants.    The 
3  English,  till  assured 
rhey  rejoiced  greatly 
and  at  every  visit  a 
i>etween  the  dog  and 
lals  are  yoked  in  the 
ong  eriforces  obedi- 
e  the  right  or  left,  to 
)uld  draw  a  sledg« 
I  mile  in  six  minutes, 
s.  the  same  distance 
however,  comprises 
!n  have  drawn  a  fall' 
four  minutes  and  a 
mveying  stores  from 
leillbs.  in  nine  mi- 
it  favou.ably  of  th« 
who  used  to  dra\r 
tant,  in  the  deepest 
iuow-drift,  with  the 


ASntAI.  LOfB. 


73 


most  perfect  precision,  when  he  could  not  have  found 
his  own  way  for  a  hundred  steps.  Their  services  in 
hunting  are  also  of  great  value :  they  can  snuff  the 
seal  in  his  hole,  or  the  deer  on  the  mountains,  from  a 
surpnsing  distance.  Assembled  in  packs,  they  face 
even  the  Polar  bear,  keeping  him  at  least  at  bay  till 
their  masters  come  up  with  spears  to  the  attack. 

The  air  in  those  dreary  regions  is,  almost  as  much 
as  the  waters,  peopled  with  its  appropriate  inhabit- 
ants,  who  fill  it  continually  with  sound  and  life. 
Here,  too,  the  species  are  nearly  all  diflferent  from 
those  which  wing  their  flight  through  the  temperate 
skies,  rhey  do  not  shine  with  the  bright  hues  of  the 
humming-bird,  nor  breathe  the  soft  notes  of  the 
nightingale,  nor  do  they  chann  the  air  with  the  rich 
melody  of  our  woodland  choirs;  but  the  auk,  the 
petrel,  and  the  gull,  clustering  in  myriads,  cause  all 
ttie  rocks  and  shores  of  the  north  to  echo  with  their 
wild  clang.  They  are  almost  all  rapacious  and  car- 
niiroious;  the  vast  collections  of  shell-fish  uid  ma- 
nne  insects  with  which  those  seas  abound,  ^nd  the 
carcasses  of  the  huge  animals  which  are  killed  either 
in  conflicts  with  each  other  or  with  man,  affordine 
them  an  inexhaustible  supply  of  nutriment. 

The  fiumar,  or  petrel  {vrocellaria  glacialit),  is  the 
close  attendant  o(  the  whale  ships  in  every  stam  of 
their  progress.    Termed  emphatically  the  bird  of 
storm,  It  faces  the  northern  tempest  when  ravia& 
with  Its  utmost  fury,  and  seats  itself  on  the  agitated 
crest  of  the  mountain-wave,  as  calmly  as  if  restine 
on  the  surface  of  an  untroubled  lake!    It  follows 
with  one  uniform  object,— that  of  snatching  and 
feaating  on  portions  of  blubber.    As  soon  as  a  whale 
IS  festened  to  the  sHo  of  the  ship,  and  begins  *c  >,' 
cut  up,  an  immense  ir-ffter  takes  place,  sometunes 
exceeding  a  thousand,  a''  m  r'ionedin  the  rear,  watch- 
ing for  the  fraijments  w     :u  arf  wafted  to  leeward, 
pe  peculiar  Ciiuckl.ng  i  oise  by  Tviiich  they  express 
their  eager  expectation  u^e  voracity  with  which  they 


«^ 


•Ml 


AMniAL  ItFI. 

seize  on  the  fat,  and  the  huge  morsels  which  they 
swallow, — the  envy  shown  to  those  who  have  ob- 
tained the  largest  of  these  delicate  morsels,  and 
often  the  violent  raeasm^s  taken  to  wrest  it  from 
them, — afford  to  the  sailors  cmious  and  amusing 
spectacles.  The  surface  of  the  sea  is  sometimes  so 
covered  with  them,  that  a  stone  cannot  be  thrown 
without  one  being  struck.  When  an  alarm  is  given, 
innumerable  wings  are  instantly  in  movement,  and 
the  birds,  striking  their  feet  agamst  the  water  to  aid 
their  flight,  cause  a  loud  and  thundering  plash. 

The  petrel,  however,  does  not  enjoy  alone  this 
delicious  ocean-festival.  It  is  sought  with  equal 
avidity  by  the  various  species  of  the  lams  or  gull — 
the  Arctic  gull,  the  kittiwake,  and  the  snow-I  'rd 
(larus  ebumeua),  which  last  excites  admiration  by  ils 
pure  and  beautiful  white;  but  the  elegance  of  its 
taste  does  not  correspond  to  that  of  its  appearance, 
fat  blubber  being  its  choicest  luxury,  while  it  utters  a 
loud  and  disagreeable  scream.  But  all  these  raven- 
ing tribes  of  me  northern  sky  have  a  terrible  rival 
in  the  glaucous  gijll  (larvs  glaucus),  who  equals  in 
rapacity  and  surpasses  them  all  in  power  and 
strength.  In  consideration  of  this,  the  Dutch  have 
invested  him  with  the  title  of  burgomaster;  but  that 
sage  magistrate  uses,  we  trust,  his  power  in  a  very 
different  manner  from  his  winged  representative, 
who  employs  it  solely  in  wresting  from  the  weaker 
species  whatever  he  sees  them  possess,  and  esteems 
desirable.  He  is  usually  hovering  high  in  the  air, 
or  seated  on  the  loftiest  icy  pinnacles,  whence,  having 
fixed  his  eye  on  a  delicious  morsel,  he  darts  down 
on  the  possessor,  which,  whether  fulmar,  snow-bird, 
or  kittiwake,  must  instantly  resign  the  coveted  prize. 
Happily  for  these  races,  the  burgomaster  species  is 
very  small  in  number,  compared  to  the  multitudes 
over  whom  he  tyrannizes. 

The  genus  anas,  comprehending  tlie  swan,  the 
goose,  and  the  duck,  large,  useful,  and  often  beautifid 


-atttmuvftmifllfff 


!  morsels  which  thej 
those  who  have  ob- 
lelicate  morsels,  and 
ken  to  wrest  it  from 
;urious  and  amusing 
i  sea  is  sometimes  so 
ae  cannot  be  thrown 
len  an  alarm  is  given, 
\y  in  movement,  and 
amst  the  water  to  aid 
lundering  plash, 
not  enjoy  alone  this 
9  sought  with  equal 
of  the  lams  or  gull — 
!,  and  the  snow-I  Td 
ites  admiration  by  ils 
:  the  elegance  of  its 
lat  of  its  appearance, 
xury,  while  it  utters  a 
But  all  these  raven- 
have  a  terrible  rival 
lucus),  who  equals  in 
I  all  in  power  and 
this,  the  Dutch  have 
ur^omaster;  but  that 
,  his  power  in  a  very 
inged  representative, 
ting  from  the  weaker 
possess,  and  esteems 
iring  high  in  the  air, 
acles,  whence,  having 
aorsel,  he  darts  down 
ler  fulmar,  snow-bird, 
ign  the  coveted  prize, 
urgomaster  species  is 
ed  to  the  multitudes 

nding  tlie  sww,  the 
il,  and  often  beautiful 


ANIMAL  LIFE. 


75 


birds,  traverse  in  vast  flights  all  the  northern  seas 
and  ^waters.  Like  the  rest  of  the  anserei,  tliey  have 
all  webbed  feet,  consisting  of  branching  toes  con- 
nected by  a  membrane,  which  enable  them  to  move 
with  equal  facility  in  the  water  as  on  land.  The 
swan,  with  its  stately  plumage,  frequents  chiefly  the 
inland  seas  and  lakes,  of  which  it  has  been  called 
the  peaceful  monarch.  The  goose,  a  less  elegant 
but  more  useful  species,  migrates  in  vast  numbers 
every  spring  to  breed  on  the  Arctic  shores  and  islands, 
and  affords  a  valuable  supply  of  food  to  all  the 
northern  settlements.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
salt  three  or  four  thousand  annually  for  winter.  The 
Indians  celebrate  the  month  of  their  arrival  under 
the  title  of  the  goose-moon.  Migration  during  the 
rigorous  season,  resorted  to  even  by  quadrupeds,  be- 
comes the  still  more  natural  resource  of  the  feathered 
creation.  Even  in  September  the  flocks  of  geese, 
winging  their  way  to  the  southward,  supplied  a 
warning  to  Captain  Franklin  of  the  winter  that  was 
closing  in  upon  him. 

The  duck  reaches  a  still  higher  latitude  than  the 
goose,  and  endures  still  severer  cold.  Great  flocks 
of  that  species  called  the  eider  arrive  in  spring  on  the 
most  northern  shores  of  Greenland.  All  the  birds 
that  fly  over  the  frozen  seas  are  provided  by  Nature 
with  a  rich  and  ample  plumage,  and  a  lining  of  soft 
dovm  beneath;  and  the  people  of  these  countries 
And  the  skins  of  birds,  with  the  feathers  inside,  to 
be  one  of  their  most  comfortable  anicles  of  clothing. 
But  the  down  of  all  the  known  species  of  birds  is 
surpassed  in  fineness  by  that  of  the  eider,  the  deli- 
cious  softness  of  which  fits  it  for  the  couch  of  ki'igs. 
A  pound  of  eider-dovm,  according  to  Sir  Charles 
Giesecke,  is  usually  sold  for  a  pound  sterling. 
The  finest  is  that  which  the  birds  pluck  from  their 
breast  to  line  the  interior  of  the  nest.  TTie  Green- 
lander,  watching  his  time,  removes  this  precious 
lining  as  soon  as  it  is  completed,  whereupon  the 


w 


TXOSTABLE  LIFE. 


poor  animals  form  a  second,  destined  to  share  the 
same  fate. 

Among  other  Arctic  birds  are  the  terns,  which  on 
the  American  coast  are  so  very  numerous,  that  an 
island  has  been  named  from  the  immense  floclcs  with 
which  it  is  annually  filled.  They  produce  the  most 
delicate  eegs  of  any  water-bird.  We  may  add  the 
colymbus  fguillemot),  whose  skin  aifords  a  peculiarly 
comfortable  clothing, — the  tringa  (sandpiper), — the 
charadrius  (plover), — the  tetrao  (grovse,  and  ptarmi- 
gan), of  wliich  a  species,  much  v^ued  i  account  of 
the  delicacy  of  its  flesh,  occupies  th  interior  of 
Greenland.  All  ptarmigans  change  leir  colour 
from  mottled  gray  or  brown  in  summer,  to  pure 
white  during  the  winter  months.  According  to  De 
Reste,  the  dark  summer  covering  is  shed  at  the  end 
of  autumn,  and  a  new  plumage  shoots  out,  which  is 
white,  till  darkened  by  the  warmth  of  the  following 
spring—or,  to  speak  more  accurately,  a  partial  moult 
takes  place  in  autumn,  during  which  all  the  coloured 
feathers  are  thrown  out,  and  their  places  supplied  by 
white  ones,  while  in  spring  most  of  these  white 
plumes  are  again  cast,  to  make  room  for  others, 
adorned  by  the  licher  and  more  varied  hues  of  sum- 
mer. Captain  Parry  saw  this  last  change  go  on  so 
rapidly  among  the  grouse  on  Melville  Island,  as  to 
be  perceptible  from  day  to  day. 

The  vegetable  world  does  not,  in  this  dark  and 
outer  boundary  of  the  earth,  possess  such  an  import- 
ant and  commanding  character  as  the  animal.  Na- 
ture, without  departing  wholly  from  her  system  and 
laws,  could  not  clothe  with  verdure  and  vegetation  a 
soil  which  for  nine  months  of  the  year  is  frozen  as 
hard  as  rock,  and  covered  with  snow  many  feet 
deep.  The  plants  of  more  genial  climates,  indeed, 
when  inserted  during  the  short  and  bright  summer, 
spring  up  and  wear  for  some  time  a  promising  ap- 
pearance ;  but  they  are  all  nipped  by  the  untimely  w  jn- 
iejr.    Still,  Nature,  in  the  northern  repions,  especially 


-  -'■  nwnriiiiOiin 


WlHWliJWilliI 


FE. 

estined  to  share  the 

the  terns,  which  on 
'  numerous,  that  an 
immense  flocks  with 
ly  produce  the  most 
We  may  add  the 
1  affords  a  peculiarly 
fa  (sandpiper), — the 
(grouse,  and  ptarmi- 
alued  I  account  of 
}ies  th  interior  of 
lange  leir  colour 
n  siunmer,  to  pure 
.  According  to  De 
r  is  shed  at  the  end 
shoots  out,  which  is 
ith  of  the  following 
itely,  a  partial  moult 
lich  all  the  colouied 
r  places  supplied  by 
ost  of  these  white 
e  room  for  others, 
mried  hues  of  sum- 
ist  change  go  on  so 
ilville  Island,  as  to 

>t,  in  this  dark  and 
less  such  an  import- 
is  the  animal.  Na- 
om  her  system  and 
ure  and  vegetation  a 
e  year  is  frozen  as 
li  snow  many  feet 
al  climates,  indeed, 
ind  bright  summer, 
mo  a  promising  ap- 
)y  the  untimely  win- 
1  regions,  especiidly 


VBOS'B&BLB  LITE. 


n 


fa  those  approaching  the  Arctic  zone,  does  employ 
resources  similar  to  those  by  which  she  cherishes 
animal  life.    The  fir,  the  pme,  and  other  trees  of 
these  climates,  on  being  pierced,  distil,  not  the  balmy 
and  fragrant  gums  of  Arabia  and  India,  but  rich, 
thick,  coarse  juices,  by  which  their  interior  heat  has 
been  preserved,  and  which,  in  the  shape  of  pitch,  tar, 
and  turpentine,  serve  many  valuable  purposes  of 
commerce.    Through  the  cherishing  influences  of 
these  juices,  the  lakes  of  North  America  are  bordered 
with  tall  dark  forests,  which  aflTord  to  the  agricultu- 
ral  countries  an  inexhaustible  supply  of  valuable 
timber.    Even  their  gloomy  foliage,  while  the  forests 
of  the  south  are  every  autumn  strewing  the  groimd 
with  their  faded  leaves,  brave  through  the  winter  all 
the  fury  of  the  northern  tempest.    Before  reaching, 
however,  the  inclement  sky  of  the  Arctic  bOunoary, 
this  magnificent  growth  decays.    Trees  that  had 
been  the  pride  of  the  forest  dwindle  into  meager  and 
stunted  shrubs.     Beyond  the  Polar  circle,  these 
monarchs  of  the  wood,  if  they  appear,  rise  only  to 
the  height  of  a  few  feet,  throwingout  lateral  branches. 
On  Melville  peninsula,  dwarf-willow  and  the  andro- 
meda  tetragona  almost  alone  afforded  to  the  Esqui- 
maux a  scanty  supply  of  wood  for  their  arms  and 
utensils.    Considerable  quantities  of  drift-timber  are, 
however,  frequently  found  along  many  of  the  barren 
shores  of  the  Arctic  regions,  supposed  to  have  floated 
originally  from  the  mouths  of  the  Siberian  and  other 
northern  rivers. 

The  plants  which  abound  most  m  these  dreary 
chmates  belong  to  the  tribes  of  mosses  and  lichens, 
the  cryptogamxa  of  Linnaeus,  the  acotyledonea  of  Jus- 
sieu.  The  meager  vegetation  vrith  which  the  Arctic 
■•  surface  is  covered  thus  appears  rather  as  if  it  were 
an  exudation  from  the  rocks  than  the  produce  of  the 
soil.  Yet  the  moss  and  lichen,  which  form  the  pre- 
vailing features,  are  not  only  copiously  produced, 
but  oossess  a  nutritious  and  salutary  quality,  not  dis- 
G8 


•aMMlill 


78 


TSORTABtX  UnS. 


(tiayed  in  more  fortunate  regions.  One  species  of 
iclwn  (L.  rangiferimts)  rorma,  as  it  were,  the  main 
staff  of  life  to  tlie  Laplander;  it  supports  the  rein- 
deer, and  the  reindeer  supports  him.  The  lichen 
of  Iceland,  boiled  in  soupi  or  even  converted  into 
bread,  is  to  the  natives  a  substantial  part  of  their 
subsistence.  Farther  north,  where  the  depth  of  the 
mow,  and  the  continuance  of  frost,  drive  the  inhabit- 
ants to  the  shore  and  to  animal  food,  these  vegeta- 
bles  still  afford  support  to  the  deer  and  to  the  other 
quadrupeds  which  they  use  as  food.  It  ia  even  with 
a  peculiar  species  of  moss  that  they  trim  their  lamps. 
Taejungut  or  mushroom,  which  draws  nourishment 
without  the  aid  of  a  proper  root,  and  the  Jilices  at 
ferns,  which  consist  only  of  one  spreading  leaf,  the 
middle  rib  of  which  forms  all  their  stalk,  while  their 
slender  roots  spread  under  the  ground, — these  find 
the  means  of  existence  even  in  Greenland. 

The  order  cdga,  and  especially  its  genus  fucus, 
comprehending  nearly  all  the  variety  of  marine 
botany,  grows  in  vast  abundance  on  the  northern 
shores.  These  rude  plants,  which  have  little  or  no 
distinction  of  stem,  root,  or  leaves,  and  whose  fructifi- 
cation is  often  included  vrithin  the  substance  of  the 
frond,  cover  the  Greenland  coast  with  submarine  mea- 
dows. The  conferva,  too,  with  their  numerous  fila- 
ments, spring  up  in  profusion. 

A  few  plants,  not  belonging  to  this  imperfect  order 
of  vegetation,  embellish,  during  the  short  summer 
gleam,  the  northern  fields.  Under  the  bright  influ- 
ence of  the  sun  at  this  season,  indeed,  some  of  the 
moat  beautiful  among  the  floral  tribe  expand  their 
iietals.  The  ranunculus  and  anemone  display  their 
rich  and  varied  tints ;  several  species  of  saxifrage  put 
forth  their  flowers ;  and  the  yellow  poppy  has  even 
a  gaudy  appearance — so  that  the  genua  papaver, 
wmch  enriches  the  plains  of  Hindostan,  is  among  the 
last  to  expire  under  the  snows  of  the  Pole.  The 
nobl«r  fruits  do  not  ripen  under  this  uingefiisd  aky  » 


mmmmimm 


n. 

vt.  One  species  of 
18  it  were,  the  main 
t  Bupports  the  rein- 
I  him.  The  lichen 
even  converted  into 
:antial  part  of  their 
ere  the  depth  of  the 
)8t,  drive  the  inhabit- 

food,  these  vegeta* 
ser  and  to  the  other 
tod.  It  ia  even  with 
iiey  trim  their  lamps. 
I  draws  nourishment 
t,  and  the  ^/icej  or 

spreading  leaf,  the 
eir  stalk,  while  their 
ground, — these  find 
Greenland. 
lly  its  genus  Juats, 

variety  of  marine 
ice  on  the  northern 
ch  have  little  or  no 
I,  and  whose  fructifi- 
;he  substance  of  the 
with  submarine  mea> 
their  numerous  fila- 

this  imperfect  order 
f  the  short  summer 
ler  the  bright  influ- 
ndeed,  some  of  the 
tribe  expand  their 
imone  display  their 
cies  of  saxifrage  put 
ow  poppy  has  even 
the  genua  papaver, 
lostan,  is  among  the 
of  the  Pole.  The 
this  imgedial  sky^ 


TEOITABIK  UVX. 


79 


yet  shrubs  producing  delicious  berries  appear  on  the 
borders,  at  least,  of  the  Arctic  zone  in  matchK«s 
profusion.  The  northern  Indians  consider  the  fru't 
of  a  bush  called  the  arottia  mcdU  as  the  most  deli- 
cious food ;  besides  which  they  have  the  strawberry, 
raspberry,  red  whortleberry,  and  various  others. 
Several  of  these  are  covered  beneath  the  first  snows 
of  winter,  which  are  supposed  to  mellow  them,  and 
which,  when  dissolved  by  spring,  show  the  berries 
still  hanging  on  the  branches,  while  the  buds  of  all 
the  others  are  bursting, — the  whole  producing  a  deli- 
cious impression  unknown  to  those  who  have  not 
witnessed  the  desolation  which  immediately  pre- 
ceded. 

These  bleak  climates  enjoy  a  precious  boon  in  the 
plants  which  act  as  an  antidote  to  scurvy,  and  which 
defy  the  most  severe  cold  of  the  Arctic  aone.  The 
cochkaria,  a  thick  tufted  juicy  plant,  of  extreme  fe- 
cundity, is  emphatically  called  icurvy  grass ;  and  the 
different  species  of  sorrel,  especially  the  rumex  dtgy- 
nuB,  were  found  by  Captain  Parry  flourishing  under 
the  snow  at  the  very  farthest  limit  of  vegetation. 

The  extraordinary  phenomenon  of  red  mow  ob- 
served by  Capt.  Hoss  and  our  other  Arctic  voyagers, 
naturally  excited  tlie  greatest  interest  both  at  home 
and  abroad.  This  singular  aspect  of  a  substance, 
with  which  we  never  fail  to  associate  an  idea  of  the 
purest  and  most  radiant  whiteness,  has  been  ascer- 
tained to  result  from  an  assemblage  of  very  minute 
vegetable  bodies,  belonging  to  the  class  of  cryptoga- 
mic  plants  and  the  natural  order  called  alea.  They 
form  the  species  named protococctu  mWu  oy  Agardh, 
which  is  synonymous  with  the  uredo  nivalis  of 
Mr.  Bauer.  This  plant  seems  by  no  means  pecu- 
liar to  the  Arctic  snows,  but  occurs  on  limestone 
rocks  in  the  island  of  Lismore  in  Scotland,  as  well 
as  among  the  Alpine  and  other  countries  of  Eu- 
rope. Saussure  observed  it  so  long  ago  as  in  the 
year  1760  on  Mount  Breveu  in  Switzerland,  and  «> 


TCOITABtl  Lira. 

frequently  after  that  period  that  he  expresses  his  sur 
prise  at  its  having  escaped  the  notir-e  of  Scheuchzer 
and  other  learned  travellers.  Ramond,  whose  ob- 
servations so  beautifully  combine  the  precision  of 
acience  with  the  perception  of  the  picturesque,  found 
red  »now  on  the  mountains  of  the  Pyrenees,  as  did 
Sommerlcldt,  'he  botanist,  on  those  of  Norway.  In 
the  year  1818,  vast  masses  of  the  same  substance 
overspread  both  the  Apennines  and  the  Italian  Alps; 
and  it  is  recorded,  then  ten  years  prior  to  thatpenod 
the  virinity  of  lielluno  and  Feltri  were  covered  to 
tl.e  depth  of  twenty  centimetres  with  rose-coloured 
snow. 

According  to  Captain  Ross,  the  Arctic  mountains 
on  which  he  ol)served  the  red  snow  are  about  600 
feet  high,  and  extend  eight  miles  in  length.    The 
depth  to  which  the  colour  penetrated  has  been  vari- 
ously stated  by  different  observers.    Some  found 
that  it  descended  many  feet  beneath  the  surface, 
while  others  never  ascertained  that  it  spread  beyond 
one  or  two  inches.    There  is  -no  reason  to  suppose 
that  the  colouring  matter  itself,  as  well  as  the  snow, 
is  a  meteorologiral  product,  although  Humboldt  cer- 
tainly mention^  u  shnwer  of  red  hail  which  fell  at 
Paramo  de  Guanacos,  in  South  America.    Moisture 
is  no  doubt  essential  to  the  production  of  this  plant, 
as  it  is  to  that  of  all  the  other  algffi ;  but  when  once 
formed,  it  seems  to  possess  the  power  of  continued 
and  increasin^vcgetation,evenoverrocksand  stones, 
•with  only  an  occasional  supply  of  fluid.    The  propa- 
gatioii  of  minute  vegetable  forms,  like  the  increase 
of  animalcules,  is  effected,  under  favourable  circum 
stances,  with  a  rapidity  of  developement  truly  asto- 
nishing i  and  the  most  probable  conjectiure  seems  to 
be,  that  snow  is  not  the  natural  situation  of  the  proto- 
C0CCU3  nivalis,  but  that,  from  its  great  tenacity  of  life, 
it  not  only  preserves  its  vitality  on  that  chUly  and 
ungenial  surface,  but,  during  the  partial  thawing  of 
uie  snow,  continues  to  increase  and  multiply.    If 


ri. 

he  expresses  his  snr 
lot  ice  of  Scheuchzer 
Ratnond,  whose  ob- 
ne  the  precision  of 
le  picturesque,  found 
he  Pyrenees,  as  did 
ose  of  Norway.  In 
the  same  substance 
ind  the  Italian  Alps; 
8  prior  to  that  penod 
;ri  were  covered  to 
I  with  rose-coloured 

[le  Arctic  mountains 
snow  are  about  600 
les  in  length.    The 
ated  has  biBen  vari- 
vers.    Some  found 
eneath  the  surface, 
lat  it  spread  beyond 
D  reason  to  suppose 
18  well  as  the  snow, 
)ugh  Humboldt  cer- 
1  hail  which  fell  at 
^erica.    Moisture 
iction  of  this  plant, 
BTffi ;  but  when  once 
x>wer  of  continued 
'er  rocks  and  stones, 
r  fluid.    The  propa- 
8,  like  the  increase 
favourable  circum 
)pement  truly  asto- 
ionjecture  seems  to 
:uation  of  the  proto- 
reat  tenacity  of  Ufe, 
on  that  chilly  and 
partial  thawing  of 
and  multiply.    If 


MMW«|IP*PW 


TIOITABLS  ttn. 


81 


such  be  the  case,  it  is  easy  to  suppose  how  a  wide 
expanse  may  be  covered  with  this  red  sufTiision, 
during  the  dissolving  and  occasional  flowing  of  the 
tmowy  waters.  When  once  established  among  the 
I'temaJ  snows  of  the  north,  it  becomes  more  nume- 
rous than  the  sands  of  the  ocean ;  and,  increasing  in 
density  from  year  to  year,  at  last  presents  to  the  as- 
tonished and  admiring  navisrator  a  sight  more  sur- 
prising in  its  r(!alily  tlian  any  of  the  fabled  wonders 
of  an  Arabian  tale. 
A  singular  coinri  icnce  has  been  observed  by  bo- 


tanists to  exist  I 
flower.    Thus  tl 
thyllis  vulnari' 
and  many  of 
show  a  decider ' 
petals  when  tli. 
stone.    "  How 


n  a  white  ground  and  a  red 

neli  and  brilliant  variety  of  an- 

>nly  fdiind  on  a  chalky  surface; 

r  orders  of  flowenng  plants 

ify  to  produce  red-coloured 

,'•  A  to  spring  up  on  white  lime- 

— - -■•    .iiuch  more   forcibly,  then,"   says 

Agardh,  "  must  this  law  uperate  upon  plants  like  the 
algae,  in  which  colour  is  an  essential  part."  That 
excess  of  light  produces  the  peculiar,  or  at  least  pre- 
vailing, colour  of  the  snow-plant,  may  be  said  to  be 
demonstrated  by  this  singular  fact,  that  the  red 
colour  gradually  changes  to  green  as  it  occuis  more 
or  less  secluded  from  the  action  of  light  among  the 
fissures  of  rocks,  or  beneath  the  hollows  or  under- 
surfaces  of  stones.  This  being  the  case,  it  will  ap- 
pear the  less  incomprehensible  that  the  same  plant 
which  is  produced  amid  the  snows  of  the  Arctic  re- 
gions, or  the  highly-elevated  Alps  of  more  southern 
countries,  should  be  occasionally  detected,  even  dur- 
ing the  heats  of  summer,  covering  the  brilliant  white 
limestone  of  the  plains.  In  the  last-named  locality 
it  was  discovered  by  the  Baron  Wranrier  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Nerike,  and  named  by  him  lepraria  kerme- 
nna ;  and  the  two  supposed  species  have  been  since 
ascertained  to  be  one  and  the  same. 

In  concluding  our  notice  of  this  singular  subject, 
we  may  observe,  that  when  the  warmth  of  the  return 


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I 

AKCDBNT  VOTAOES. 

83 

«.|| 

CHAPTER  III. 

Ancient  Foyages  to  the  ^Torih. 

The  voyages  to  the  north,  undertaken  prior  to  the 
great  era  of  maritime  enterprise  and  the  invention 
of  the  compass,  were  few  in  number,  and  scarcely 
extended  into  those  circumpolar  regions  which  form 
the  special  subject  of  the  present  voliune.  It  will 
be  enough,  therefore,  to  take  a  rapid  sketch  of  the 
steps  by  which  discovery  proceeded  towards  these 
remote  and  almost  inaccessible  quarters. 

The  Mediterranean,  the  shores  of  which  consti* 
tuted  the  first  civilized  portion  of  the  west,  was  the 
quarter  where  European  navigation  originated.  As 
Tjrre,  situated  in  the  depth  of  that  sea,  was  the 
earliest  seat  of  commerce,  Carthage,  the  daughter  of 
Tyre,  was  doubtless  the  first  state  which  undertook 
any  extensive  discoveries  upon  the  ocean,  lliese, 
however,  were  shrouded  in  deep  mystery,  prompted 
by  the  jealous  and  monopolizing  temper  of  this 
people,  once  so  powerful  and  opulent.  The  classic 
writers  give  only  some  slight  and  detached  notices 
of  the  voyage  of  Himilco,  who  appears  to  have  sailed 
along  the  exterior  coasts  of  Spain  and  France,  and 
to  have  reached  the.  southern  extremity  of  Britain. 
This  was  probably  only  the  first  of  a  series  of 
voyages  carried  on  with  the  view  of  procuring  tin,  a 
metal  rare  and  valued  in  those  days.  The  Cassi- 
terides,  or  islands  of  tin,  which  appear  to  be  Corn- 
wall and  the  Scilly  Isles  combined  together,  are  a 
mysterious  and  celebrated  name  among  the  primi- 
tive authors  of  Europe. 

The  most  distinguished  of  the  Greek  navigators  to 


•« 


AHCnUT  T0TA0X8. 


the  north  was  Pytheas,  a  citizen  of  Marseilles,  a 
commercial  Greek  colony,  which,  favoured  by  its 
situation,  had  become  tho  chief  emporium  or  the 
commerce  of  Britain,  already  of  some  importance. 
This  commefce,  however,  was  carried  on,  not  by  tho 
ocean,  but  by  a  land  carriage  through  Gaul.    Pytheas 
seems  the  first  who,  inspired  by  motives  of  intelligen' 
curiosity,  endeavoured  by  a  maritime  route  to  reach 
the  British  coast,  and  to  penetrate  to  the  remotest 
extremities  of  the  north.    Our  knowledge  of  this 
voyage  is  indeed  imperfect,  since  it  is  almost  en- 
tirely due  to  Strabo,who,  while  he  relates  it,  derides 
the  whole  as  a  plpable  forgery;  yet  the  very  par- 
ticulars on  which  he  founds  this  charge  go  far  to  es- 
tablish the  contrary.   Pytheas  appears  to  have  passed 
the  Straits,  and  sailed  along  the  western  coasts  of 
France  and  Spain,  which,  from  previous  misconcep- 
tion,  he  confounds  together.     Thence  he  seems  to 
nave  directed  his  couree  through  the  English  Chan- 
nel, and  along  the  eastern  coasts  of  England  and 
Scotland,  till  he  reached  the  northern  extremity  of 
the  island.    Not  content  with  this  achievement,  he 
continued  to  sail  onwards  into  the  depths  of  ocean, 
till  in  six  days  he  arrived  at  Thule,  an  island,  where 
it  appeared  to  him  that  perpetual  light  reigned  at 
midsummer  through  the  day  and  night.  Immediately 
beyond,  his  progress  was  arrested  by  a  barrier  of  a 
peculiar  nature,  by  something  which  was  neither 
earth,  air,  nor  sky,  but  a  compound  of  all  the  three, 
forming  a  thick  viscid  substance,  through  which  it 
was  impossible  to  penetrate.    These  statements  have 
afforded  much  advantage  to  the  skeptical  adversaries 
of  Pytheas ;  yet  the  summer  days  of  Shetland  are 
re»'Jy  very  long,  and  the  thick  and  gloomy  mists, 
with  which  the  northern  sea  is  often  loaded,  might 
make  a  peculiar  impression  on  one  who  had  ventured 
into  this  unknown  ocean,  so  far  beyond  the  limit  of 
former  naviration :  they  might  make  him  prone  to 
belieTe  that  he  had  arrived  at  the  farthest  boundaries 


.  .■^■--.•jM£ft>r-i:'.'/-*V 


8. 

of  Marseilles,  a 
.  favoured  by  its 
emporium  of  the 
some  importance, 
ried  on,  not  by  the 
h  Gaul.  Py  theas 
lives  of  intelligen» 
tne  route  to  reach 
i  to  the  remotest 
nowledge  of  this 

it  is  almost  en- 
relates  it,  derides 
yet  the  very  par- 
arge  go  far  to  es- 
ars  to  have  passed 
estem  coasts  of 
vious  misconcep- 
nee  he  seems  to 
le  English  Chan- 
of  England  and 
em  extremity  of 

achievement,  he 
depths  of  ocean, 
an  island,  where 
light  reigned  at 
ht.  Immediately 
by  a  barrier  of  a 
lich  was  neither 
of  all  the  three, 
through  which  it 
;  statements  have 
)tlcal  adversaries 
of  Shetland  are 
d  gloomy  mists, 
3n  loaded,  might 
^ho  had  ventured 
ond  the  limit  of 
ce  him  prone  to 
thest  boundaries 


AKCBNT  TOYAaCfl. 


81 


of  natnre.  It  seems  difficult,  however,  to  suppose, 
with  Bougainville,  that  the  voyage  of  Pytheas  should 
ever  have  extended  as  far  as  Iceland ;  but  in  another 
direction  he  appears  to  have  penetrated  to  the  Baltic, 
and  also  to  have  brought  home  some  correct  accounts 
of  ite  shores,  then  known  to  the  people  on  the  Medi- 
terranean  almost  solely  by  the  qualities  of  the  amber 

v!U,u   ^"'  >mported  from  thence. 
-.  I    /"y^*??®  °^  Pytheas,  though  apparently  quite 
authentic,  did  not  lead  to  any  change  in  the  channels 
or  MassyUan  trade.     It  was  found  probably  both 
cneaper  and  more  commodious  to  transport  the  pro- 
ductions of  Britain  through  Gaul,  than  to  convey 
mem  by  means  of  such  a  lengthened  and  perilous 
voyage.     The  only  farther  additions   to   ancient 
Knowledge  respecting  the  northern  seas  were  made 
Dv  the  Romans,  who,  in  order  to  conquer,  were 
«„j*^!.**,^°   ^^J*^"®   *«  «arth.     Agricola,  before 
undertaking  the  campaign  which  was  to  reduce 
Scotland  into  a  province,  sent  fleets  to  explore  its 
most  northern  shores  and  bays.    The  Romans,  how- 
ever, never  appear  to  have  sent  naval  expeditions, 
ftavmg  discoveiy  alone  in  view,  to  the  north,  or  per- 
haps to  any  other  quarter.    Their  delineation  of 
Scotland  Itself  is  excessively  rude ;  and  though  they 
nad  traced  the  shores  of  Europe  eastward  as  far  as 
liU8sia»  Scandinavia  appeared  to  them  raly  as  a 
cluster  of  large  islands  in  the  North  Sea. 

In  the  declme  of  the  Roman  empire,  that  countiTr 
rormeriy  almort  unknown,  became  the  seat  of  a  most 
ronnidable  and  extensive  naval  po^er.  Norway, 
under  the  temUe  dominion  of  Harold  the  Fair' 
liaired,  and  Denmark,  under  Gorm  and  Canute,  sent 
forth  fleeu  which  piDaged  all  the  maritime  territories 
Of  Jiun^,  and  reduced  many  of  them  to  temporary  or 
even  final  subjection.  Their  expeditions,  however, 
were  from  the  north,  not  to  the  north.  Their  objects 
were,  not  science,  but  ravage  and  conquest.  The 
Kumc  tribes,  indeed,  were  not  without  some  tincture 
H 


r 


86 


ANCIENT  rOVAOES. 


of  letters  and  poetiy;  but  theii'  togas,  or  poetical 
chronicles,  celebrate  only  the  exploits  of  their  mightv 
sea-kings  and  rovers,  not  any  theme  connected  witn 
commerce  and  the  arts  of  peace.  Yet  a  communi- 
cation with  these  tribes  enabled  Alfred,  an  iUustrious 
monarch,  who  shone  so  bright  in  that  dark  age,  to 
collect  information  respecting  those  extremities  of 
the  earth  which  had  remained  unknown  to  the 
Greeks  and  Romans.  Ohthere,  a  chief  who  had 
come  from  the  upper  tracts  of  Norway,  afforded 
some  intelligence  even  respecting  a  voyage  under- 
taken along  the  Arctic  shores  of  Europe. 

Ohthere  was  considered  a  rich  man  in  his  own 
country,  being  owner  of  twenty  oxen,  twenty  sheep, 
and  six  himdred  tame  reindeer.  Fired  by  a  spirit  of 
liberal  research,  he  undertook  a  voyage  to  discover 
the  regions  which  lay  to  the  north  of  the  high  latitude 
in  which  his  domain  was  situated.  He  sailed  six 
days  in  that  direction,  which  appears  to  have  brought 
him  10  the  North  Cape,  the  fartnest  point  of  Europe ; 
he  then  turned  three  days  towards  the  east,  and 
afterward  five  days  to  the  south.  All  this  while  the 
land  on  his  right  was  desolate,  traversed  only  by  a 
few  wandering  shepherds  and  hunters,  of  Finnish 
race.  Then,  however,  he  reached  a  large  river,  the 
opposite  side  of  which  was  somewhat  densely  inha* 
bited  by  the  Biarmians,  or  people  of  northern  Russia, 
who  showed  such  a  hostile  disposition  as  obliged  him 
to  return.  The  fishery  of  the  horse-whale  (walnie) 
was  found  to  be  carried  on  here  with  such  advantage, 
that  many  were  afterward  induced  to  foUow  the 
same  course.  Forster  delineates  the  navigation  of 
Ohthere  as  reaching  to  the  interior  of  the  "Wtaie  Sea ) 
but  we  do  not  think  the  period  of  eight  days  from 
the  North  Cape  could  have  carried  him  farther  than 
the  river  Kola,  which  agrees  also  with  the  supposi- 
tion of  his  having  been  arrested  on  the  frontier  of 
Russian  Lapland. 

The  direction  in  which  the  Northmen  sought  rich 


tga»,  or  poetical 
ts  of  their  mighty 
e  connected  with 
Yet  a  communi- 
red,  an  illustrious 
that  dark  age,  to 
e  extremities  of 
inknown  to  the 
chief  who  had 
forway,  afforded 
a  voyage  under- 
jrope. 

man  in  his  own 
m,  twenty  sheep, 
ired  by  a  spirit  of 
fage  to  discover 
:  the  high  latitude 
.  He  sailed  six 
s  to  have  brought 
point  of  Europe ; 
Is  the  east,  and 
\.ll  this  while  the 
rorsed  only  by  a 
Iters,  of  Finnish 
i  large  river,  the 
lat  densely  inha* 
northern  Russia, 
Dn  as  obliged  him 
B-whale  (walrus) 
t  such  advantage, 
d  to  foUow  the 
le  navigation  of 
if  the  Vmte  Sea } 
eight  days  from 
him  farther  than 
ith  the  supposi- 
n  the  frontier  of 

tmen  sougjit  rkh 


kingdoms  to  plunder  and  tp  conquer  was  always  the 
south.  To  quit  their  bleak  regions  in  search  of 
others  still  more  bleak,  would  have  been  wholly 
foreign  to  their  views ;  yet,  as  the  sea  was  covered 
with  their  sails,  chance  and  tempest  sometimes  drove 
them  in  that  other  direction.  In  861,  Nadodd, 
during  a  piratical  excursion,  unexpectedly  discovered 
Iceland.  This  country  had  little  to  tempt  a  nation 
of  freebooters ;  yet  so  it  chanced,  that  there  existed 
materials  for  its  colonization.  Harold,  in  making 
himself  master  of  all  Norway,  had  crushed  the  rights 
and  sway  of  numerous  petty  chieftains,  and  had  thus 
created  a  large  body  of  malecontents.  He  was  will- 
ing to  grant,  and  they  to  accept,  a  permanent  refuge 
in  this  frozen  clime.  Numerous  bodies  of  emigrants 
proceeded  successively  to  Iceland,  where  they  were 
organized  into  a  free  and  independent  community. 
They  even  crossed  to  the  opposite  coast  of  Green- 
land, and  fonne(i  settlements,  which  for  some  time 
were  tolerably  flourishing,  though  they  have  since 
either  perished  or  lost  all  communication  with  Ice- 
land. During  the  eleventh  century,  however,  chance 
or  enterprise  led  Greenland  navigators  southward  to 
another  coast,  which  they  called  Vinland,  and  which 
has  been  very  generally  believed  to  be  America, 
^ouffh,  aftar  a  careful  examination  of  the  authorities 
on  wnich  this  opinion  rests,  we  have  been  led  to  sup- 
pose that  the  new  country  was  merely  a  more  south- 
ern point  of  Greei.ian((.  The  limits  of  the  present 
work,  however,  will  not  admit  any  detailed  account 
of  these  settlements. 

The  republican  cities  of  Italy,  during  the  middle 
ages,  rekmdled  the  extinct  spirit  of  commerce  and 
navigation,  which  they  raised  to  a  degree  of  prospe- 
rity equalling  probably  that  attained  by  Tyre  and 
Carthage  during  the  height  of  their  ancient  glory. 
These  cities  reached  a  measure  of  power  and  opu- 
knce  which  enabled  them  to  rank  with  the  greatest 
kingdoms.    Their  trade,  however,  lay  chiefly  within 


..■.^^'^•WWH3^^"~ 


^mmmmmm 


88 


ANOirarT  VOTAOXB. 


the  Mediterranean,  especially  ita  eautem  border, 
whither  were  brought  over  land  or  by  the  Red  Sea 
the  commodities  of  India.  Few  were  disposed  to 
quit  this  bright  and  ftolden  track  to  fece  the  tern- 
pests  of  the  ocean  and  of  the  north ;  yet  were  thei« 
not  wanting  a  few  adventurous  spirits  who  undertook 
a"^  were  able  to  penetrate  into  these  remote  seas. 

Nlcolo  Zeno,  an  eminent  and  noble  merchant  of 
Venice,  undertook,  in  1380,  a  voyage  to  Flanders, 
during  which  a  tempest  drove  him  upon  a  coast  which 
he  calls  Friesland.    The  position  of  this  unknown 
shore  has  been  a  subject  of  controversy ;  and  some 
have  even  had  recourse  to  the  h]rpothesis  of  its  havin,( 
been  since  swallowed  up  by  the  ocean.    When,  how 
ever,  we  find  that  Friesland  was  in  fact  a  cluster  of 
telanda,  to  which  are  applied  the  names,  Talas,  Broas, 
Bres,  Iscant,  easily  converted  into  Zeal,  Brassa, 
Unst,  we  may  conclude  with  Forster  that  it  is  piti- 
bably  one  and  the  same  with  the  Shetland  Isles. 
Zeno,  being  cast  ashore  in  a  state  completely  desti- 
ttite,  was  received  with  great  kindness  by  the  Prince 
Zichmni,  whose  name  seems  to  be  a  corruption  of 
Sinclair.    Finding  Zeno  eminently  skilled  in  naval 
affairs,  he  reposed  the  highest  confidence  in  him,  and 
placed  under  his  command  various  naval  expeditions. 
So  pleased  was  the  Venetian  with  the  favour  of  this 
northern  potentate,  that  he  invited  his  brother  An- 
tomo  to  join  him.    The  only  voyage,  however,  which 
seems  to  have  carried  him  far  to  the  north  was  one 
to  Greenland,  and  he  gives  a  somewhat  romantic 
account  of  a  religious  establishment  formed  in  that 
country.    The  convent  was  built  on  the  side  of  a 
hill,  whence  burst  a  copious  boiling  spring,  whose 
waters  enaUed  the  monks  to  vanquisb  all  uie  evils 
of  the  climate;  when  spread  on  the  fVjzeh  soil, they 
api^ied  it  for  the  production  of  tne  most  useAd  heibs 
uidculinaiyplants;  when  introduced  i>ito  the  houses, 
mey  warmed  with  it  the  apartments,  and  cooked  the 
victuals.    Thev  were  likewise  supplied  from  the 


tub. 


■■iaMdIiailMiiMWst 


ft»iliTarfili'(>ril 


esbtem  border, 
by  the  Red  Sea 
^ere  disposed  to 
o  foce  the  tem- 
■  yet  were  there 
b  who  undertook 
B  remote  seas, 
ble  merchant  of 
tge  to  Flanders, 
on  a  coast  which 
if  this  imknown 
Brsy;  and  some 
ssis  of  its  having 
n.    When,  how 
fact  a  cluster  of 
e8,Talas,BroaB, 
9  Zeal,  Brassa, 
r  that  it  is  pro- 
Shetland  Isles. 
}mpletely  desti- 
Bs  by  the  Prince 
a  corruption  of 
skilled  in  naval 
mce  in  him,  and 
val  escpeditions. 
e  favour  of  this 
lis  brother  An- 
however,  which 
north  was  one 
iwhat  romantic 
formed  in  that 
n  the  side  of  a 
spiin?,  whose 
d)  all  die  evils 
''jzeii  soil,  they 
wt  usefbl  herbs 
l>ito  the  houses, 
and  cooked  the 
>lied  from  the 


ANcicirr  roTAOEs. 


89 


country  with  abundance  of  fish,  reindeer,  and  wild 
fowl;  and  vessels  from  Norway  brought  to  them  the 
luxuries  of  life-  Zeno  undertook  other  voyages  in  a 
different  direction,  which  have  even  been  supposed 
to  reach  as  far  as  America ;  but  we  incline  to  think 
that  the  passages  which  have  suggested  this  conclu- 
sion are  either  misunderstood  or  mterpolated. 

Quirini,  another  Italian  nobleman,  in  1431,  under- 
took  a  similar  voyage,  and  was  driven  by  a  similar 
tempest  on  the  coast  of  Norway.  The  southern 
mariners  arrived  in  the  most  miserable  plight,  having 
lost  the  ship  and  been  obliged  to  take  to  their  boats, 
after  the  greater  part  of  the  crew  had  perished  of 
hunger,  cold,  and  especially  thirst.  They  were  thrown 
first  on  a  small  uninhabited  island,  where,  having 
erected  two  tents,  and  found  a  large  fish,  they  con- 
trived to  support  life.  After  some  days,  a  fisherman 
and  two  boys  came  In  a  boat  to  the  island,  and  were 
at  first  terrified  by  the  sight  of  the  strangers ;  but, 
by  courteous  address,  were  soon  prevailed  upon  to 
take  with  them  two  of  the  sailors,  Gerard  of  Lyons, 
and  Cola  of  Otranto.  They  rowed  to  a  village  on 
the  neighbouring  island  of  Uost,  where  they  met  the 
kindest  reception.  As  it  chanced  to  be  Sunday,  the 
priests  exhorted  the  congregation  to  afibrd  all  the 
assistance  in  their  power  to  these  unfortunate  stran- 
gers. Six  boats  were  fitted  out,  the  appearance  of 
which  dispelled  all  the  fears  of  Quirini,  and  filled  him 
with  joy.  The  chief  native  now  gave  a  cordial  wel- 
come, and  having  set  before  him  some  rye  bread  and 
beer,  invited  him  to  the  habitations  on  the  island. 
The  Italians  were  there  received  and  treated  with 
uninterrupted  kindness  during  a  stay  of  three  months, 
in  which  time  they  completely  recovered  from  all 
their  distress  and  fatigue.  The  natives  of  this  little 
island,  about  130  in  number,  subsisted  on  stock-fish, 
which  they  dried  and  carried  to  the  market  of  Ber- 
gen, where  purchasers  arrived  from  Germany  and 
other  countries;  also  on  sea-fowl,  which  in  vast 

Ha 


W  NOHTR-XAMT  TOTAaiS. 

flocks  covered  all  the  minx)unding  rocks,  and  even 
buat  on  the  sides  of  the  houses.  Many  of  these 
birds  were  so  tame,  that  when  the  natives  walked  up 
to  their  nests,  they  were  wont  to  step  off,  allow  two 
°'  *'"^*fi^8r»  to  be  taken,  and  then  resume  their 
seat.  The  people  were  most  strict  in  their  attend- 
ance  on  religious  duties,  and  carried  their  resigna- 
tion  to  the  will  of  Providence  so  very  far,  that  they 
rejoiced  and  sometimes  oven  held  a  festival  at  the 
death  of  near  relations.  The  Italians,  accustomed 
to  the  feehngs  of  southern  jealousy,  were  extremely 
surprised  to  see  all  the  members  of  a  family  sleep- 
ing together  in  one  apartment,  which  they  them- 
selves were  admitted  to  share,  without  the  remotest 
feeling  of  improDriety.  In  summer,  both  sexes 
walked  naked  to  the  nearest  pool,  and  bathed,  pro- 
miscuously,  all  in  perfect  innocence,  and  v/ithout 
awakening  any  suspicion,— a  practice  indeed  which 
pretty  generally  prevails  in  the  northern  countries 
of  Europe  at  the  present  day. 

The  summer  having  arrived,  Quirini  took  occasion 
to  go  with  the  amiual  ship  to  Drontheim,  and,  travel- 
ling thence  by  land  to  Sweden,  he  found  a  vessel 
bound  for  Rostock,  in  which  he  finally  returned  to 
Italy  by  way  of  England. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Foyages  in  Search  of  a  J^orth-Ea$t  Pa$sag9. 

T^B  latter  part  of  the  iifteenth  century  may  be 
fixed  upon  as  that  period  in  the  history  of  the  worid 
when  mantune  discovery  proceeded  on  the  greatest 
scale,  with  the  most  splendid  results,  and  the  most 
extensive  influence  on  the  condition  of  numkind. 


T 


"W^r 


IIS. 

rocks,  and  even 
Many  of  these 
natives  walked  up 
tep  off,  allow  two 
hen  resume  their 
It  in  their  attend- 
ed their  resigna- 
ery  far,  that  they 
I  a  festival  at  the 
iana,  accustomed 
r,  were  extremely 
f  a  family  sleep- 
vhich  they  them- 
lout  the  remotest 
mer,  both  sexes 
and  bathed,  pro- 
ice,  and  \7ith0ut 
ice  indeed  which 
orthem  countries 

rini  took  occasion 
lieim,  and,  travel- 
e  found  a  vessel 
nally  returned  to 


frORTR-tAST  TOTAOZt. 


»1 


hH  Passage. 

century  may  be 
ory  of  the  worid 
1  on  the  greatest 
ts,  and  the  most 

iOB  of  m«nkil^«^- 


"    Tiii'Tr-'ii  I 


Travellers  and  naviprators  of  the  present  day  have 
displayed  an  enterprise  which  nothin|r  could  exceed ; 
but  there  remained  for  their  efforts  only  tlie  dark  and 
distant  boundaries  of  ocean,  or  the  interior  of  baiba- 
rous  continents.  On  the  contrary,  vast  kingdoms, 
new  worids,  regions  teeming  with  unbounded  wealth, 
rewarded  the  daring  career  of  Oama  and  Columbus. 
A  new  direction  was  given  to  human  ambition  and 
industry ;  and  the  discovery  of  distant  regions  became 
not  only  a  commercial  speculation  with  individuals, 
but  a  grand  object  of  national  policy. 

England,  one  of  the  most  powerfW  kingdoms  of 
Europe,  had  always  shown  herself  ready  to  embark 
m  every  scheme  of  utility :  yet  she  was  not  alto- 
gether ripe  for  these  extensive  undertakings.  The 
nations  of  Southern  Europe  were  then  nearly  a  cen- 
tury in  advance  of  those  ruder  states  which  lay  be- 
yond the  Alps  and  the  Pyrenees.  Venice,  Genoa, 
Seville,  Lisbon,  not  London  or  Amsterdam,  were  the 
great  schools  of  commerce  and  navigation.  The 
habits  and  ideas  of  the  feudal  system,  its  proud  in- 
dolence and  contempt  of  mechanical  pursuits,  were 
only  in  the  course  of  being  gradually  superseded  ; 
and  the  mercantile  interest  possessed  as  yet  only  a 
small  share  of  that  pre-eminent  importance  to  which 
it  has  since  attained. 

Henry  VIL,  amid  these  unfavourable  circum- 
stances, and  with  nothing  of  the  heroic  or  adven- 
turous in  his  composition,  possessed  yet  qualities 
which  enabled  him  to  appreciate  the  importance  of  ma- 
ritime undertaking.  Evenr  thing  which  affbrded 
any  promise  of  filhng  his  coders  was  congenial  to  the 
teste  of  that  monarch ;  and  for  this  reason  he  showed 
himself  ready  to  meet  the  aspiring  views  of  Colum- 
bus with  greater  promptitude  than  any  other  monarch 
of  the  age.  That  great  navigator,  after  vain  solicita- 
tion at  the  courts  of  Spain  and  Portugal,  sent  hia 
brother  Bartholomew  to  make  propositions  to  Henry, 
Which  were  veiy  readily  accepted;  but  before  hu 


*i  NORTH-EABT  TOTAOI*. 

messenfjer  returned  to  Spain,  Columbus,  under  the 
auspicea  of  Isabella,  was  already  crossing  the  At- 
lantic. It  was  afterward  with  the  full  sanction  and 
favour  of  Henry,  though  not  at  his  expense,  that  John 
Cabot  made  that  important  voyage  in  which  he  dis- 
covered Newfoundland,  an  island  which,  though  not 
fitted  for  culture,  has  become  the  well-known  seat  of 
the  greatest  fishery  in  the  world.  He  was  also  the 
first  European  who  came  into  contact  with  any  part 
of  the  mauiland  of  America.  That  prince  afterward 
granted  to  John  Elliot  and  Thomas  Ashurst  of  Bris- 
tol, with  several  natives  of  Portugal,  letters-patent, 
to  undertake  the  discovery  of  lands  and  regions  un- 
known ;  but  the  result  of  their  expedition  is  not  re- 
corded. 

Notwithstanding  these  proceedings,  England  had 
not  yet  thoroughly  imbibed  the  true  spirit  of  mari- 
time enterprise.  It  had  been  kindled  at  a  foreign 
shrine,  an(l,  when  deprived  of  external  support,  gra- 
dually languished.  This  flame  became  nearly  ex- 
tinct during  the  long  reign  of  Henry  VIII.  That 
prince,  full  of  bustle,  needy  of  money,  and  not  de- 
void of  intelligence,  might  have  been  supposed  rather 
prompt  to  embark  in  such  enterprises ;  but,  involved 
m  so  many  disputes,  domestic  and  theological,  and 
studying,  though  with  little  skill,  to  hold  the  balance 
between  the  two  great  continental  rivals,  Charles 
and  Francis,  he  was  insensible  to  the  glory  and  ad- 
vantages to  be  derived  from  maritime  expeditions. 
Sebastian  Cabot,  the  son  of  the  navigator  just  named, 
in  order  to  obtain  employment,  was  obliged  to  quit 
England  and  repair  to  Spain,  where  he  was  received 
with  much  favour,  and  spent  the  greater  pan  of  his 
life,  either  in  attempts  at  discovery,  or  in  a  quiet  re- 
sidence at  Seville,  where  he  was  consulted  and  re- 
vered as  a  nautical  oracle. 

After  a  long  slumber,  the  maritime  genius  of 
England  was  suddenly  roused.  It  burst  forth  under 
8  young  prince  of  hi^  hope  and  promise.    In  1693, 


T 


ib. 


Ai 


*» 


imbuB,  under  the 
crossing  the  At* 
full  sanction  and 
xpenae,  that  John 
in  which  he  dis- 
rliich,  tliough  not 
ell-known  seat  of 
He  was  also  the 
ict  with  any  part 
prince  afterward 
Ashurst  of  Bris- 
il,  letters-patent, 
I  and  regions  un- 
iditionis  not  re- 

gs,  England  had 
3  spirit  of  mari- 
ied  at  a  foreign 
nal  support,  gra- 
came  nearly  ex- 
nryVIII.  That 
ley,  and  not  de- 
i  supposed  rather 
;s;  but,  involved 
theological,  and 
liold  the  balance 
I  rivals,  Charles 
le  glory,  and  ad- 
nie  expeditions, 
ator  just  named, 
obliged  to  quit 
le  was  received 
ater  part  of  his 
or  in  a  quiet  re- 
insulted  and  re- 
time genius  of 
arst  forth  under 
•mise.    In  16$3, 


NonTH'CAST  T0YA0I8. 


03 


the  sixth  year  of  the  reign  of  Edward  VI.,  the  mer- 
chants of  London,  among  whom  are  said  to  have  been 
"  men  of  great  wisdom  and  gravity,"  felt  a  sudden 
and    extreme  ardour   in   the  cause  of  discovery. 
There  chanced  at  that  critical  moment  to  be  in  Lon- 
don no  less  a  person  than  the  younger  Cabot,  who  had 
aided  his  father  in  the  discovery  of  North  America, 
and  who,  as  already  mentioned,  had  afterward,  while 
residing  abroad,  become  an  oracle  in  every  thing  con- 
nected with  navigation.    With  him  the  merchants  en- 
tered into  deep  consultation,  and  in  conjunction  with 
him  formed  the  general  plan  of  a  voyage,  having 
in  view  to  reach,  by  way  of  the  north  and  north-cas^ 
the  opulent  and  celebrated  regions  of  India  and  Ca- 
thay.   The  obstacles  to  such  an  undertaking  could 
not  yet  be  fully  appreciated.    No  just  idea  could  at 
that  time  be  formed  of  the  immense  breadth  of  Asia, 
its  extension  towards  the  north,  and  the  enormous 
masses  of  ice  with  which  its  shores  are  encumbered. 
The  youthi\il  monarch,  whether  he  had  any  influ- 
ence in  inspiring  this  general  ardour,  or  whether  he 
caught  the  flame  from  his  people,  showed  certainly 
the  most  eager  interest  in  the  cause.    He  had  already 
named  Sebastian  Cabot  grand  pilot  of  England,  with 
a  salary,  considerable  in  that  age,  of  £166.    It  was 
not  by  royal  munificence,  however,  that  the  funds 
were  suppued  for  prosecuting  this  arduous  enterprise. 
An  association,  or  senate,  as  it  is  called,  was  formod, 
who  Judged  it  most  advisable  to  divide  tlie  concern 
into  shares  of  £38,  by  which  means  the  sum  of  six 
thousand  pounds  was  easily  raised,  and  employed 
in  the  construction  and  equipment  of  three  vessels 
fitted  for  northern  navigation.     The  preparations, 
with  a  due  regard  to  the  formidable  character  and 
length  of  the  vojrage,  were  made  on  a  scale  of  which 
there  had  been  ho  previous  example ;  Cabot  says, 
"the  like  was  never  in  any  realm  seen,  used,  or 
known.     The  timbers  were  made  of  extraordinary 
wtrsngth,  by  the  best  shipwrights;  the  keel  was 


I 


"^•ssn:-— "^wfSBiF 


04 


K0RTH-EA8T  VOVASES. 


covered  with  thin  sheets  of  lead,  a  contrivance  then 
practised  for  the  first  time,  and  since  found  most  im- 
portant ;  provisions  for  eighteen  months  were  put  on 
board.    Cabot,  though  unable,  probably  from  his  age, 
to  accompany  the  expedition,  drew  out  a  series  of 
instructions,  in  which  the  whole  conduct  to  be  ob- 
served by  the  officers  and  crew  is  minutely  laid  down. 
He  enjoins  strict  attention  to  private  conduct  and 
morals ;  that  morning  and  evening  prayers  be  read  on 
board  each  ship,  either  by  the  chaplain  or  master ; 
that  there  be  no  "  ribaldry  or.  ungodly  talk,  dicing, 
carding,  tabling,  nor  other  devilish  games."    He  pro- 
hibits  all  acts  tending  to  the  breach  of  discipline, 
"  conspiracies,   part-takings,  factions,    false  tales, 
which  be  the  very  seeds  and  fruits  of  contention." 
Naval  subordination  being  in  that  age  only  imper- 
fectly established,  and  the  tendency  to  mutiny  ex- 
tremely strong,  these  exhortations  were  most  neces- 
sary and  important.     All  questions  respecting  the 
steering  Of  the  ship  were  to  be  decided  by  a  council 
of  twelve,  the  captain  having  only  a  double  vote. 
Persons  skilled  in  writing  were,  in  each  ship,  to  keep 
a  daily  record  of  the  course  of  navigation,  the  ce^ 
lestial  observations,  the  aspect  of  the  lands  along 
which  they  sailed,  with  every  other  interesting  oc 
currence.    The  masters  of  the  different  ships  were  to 
meet  weekly,  compare  these  records,  and,  after  com- 
bining them  with  each  other,  enter  tiiem  in  a  com- 
mon leger.    Directions  are  even  given  for  keeping 
weekly  accounts,  maintaining  the  cook-room  and 
other  parts  of  the  ship  clean,  and  preventing  any 
liquor  from  being  spilled  upon  them.    Tlie  natives  of 
the  countries  which  they  visited  were  "  to  be  consi- 
dered advisedly,  and  treated  with  gentleness  and 
courtesy,  without  iny  disdain,  laughing,  or  con- 
tempt."    Particular  endeavours  were  to  be  made  by 
fair  means  to  allure  some  one  on  board,  where  he 
was  to  be  well  clothed  and  treated,  so  as  to  allure 
others;  but  we  cannot  so  much  s^plaud  the  hint. 


T 


MikiM 


■MHHWMMiMUi^ 


♦  f 


lass. 

a  contrivance  then 
ice  found  moat  im- 
lonths  were  put  on 
bably  from  his  age, 
w  out  a  series  of 
conduct  to  be  ob« 
oinutely  laid  down, 
ivate  conduct  and 
prayers  be  read  on 
iplain  or  master; 
^odly  talk,  dicing, 
games."    He  pro- 
lach  of  discipline, 
tions,   false  tales, 
ts  of  contention." 
t  age  onlyimper- 
icy  to  mutiny  ex- 
were  most  neces- 
ins  respecting  the 
:ided  by  a  council 
ly  a  double  vote, 
each  ship,  to  keep 
lavigation,  the  ce.^ 
'  the  lands  along 
er  interesting  oc 
;rent  ships  were  to 
Is,  and,  after  com> 
*  Uiem  in  a  com- 
o^ven  for  keeping 
a  cook-room  ana 
i  preventing  any 
..    The  natives  of 
ere  "  to  be  consi- 
h  gentleness  and 
lugning,  or  con- 
sre  to  bie  made  by 
board,  where  he 
1,  BO  as  to  allure 
B^plaud  the  hint. 


I 

HiTiiittiri 


NORTH-EAST  T0TA0E8. 


95 


that "  if  he  be  made  drunk  with  your  wine  or  beer, 
you  shall  know  the  secrets  of  his  heart."  The  mari- 
ners are  exhorted,  however,  to  use  the  utmost  cir- 
cumspection in  their  dealings  with  these  strangers, 
and  it  invited  to  dine  with  any  lord  or  ruler,  to  go 
weU  armed,  and  in  a  posture  of  defence.  The 
liveries  furnished  to  the  sailors  were  to  be  carefully 
kept  by  the  mercantile  agents,  and  to  be  worn  only 
when  their  captain, considered  it  an  object  to  show 
them  "in  good  array  for  the  advancement  and 
honour  of  the  voyage."  He  warns  the  mariners  not 
to  be  too  much  alarmed  when  they  saw  the  natives 
dressed  in  lions'  and  bears'  skins,  with  long  bows  and 
arrows,  as  this  formidable  appearance  was  often  as- 
sumed merely  to  inspire  terror.  However,  he  seems 
to  suggest  a  still  more  chimerical  fear,  when  he  tells 
them,  that  there  are  persons  armed  jvith  bows,  who 
swim  naked,  in  various  seas,  havens,  and  rivers, 
"  desirous  of  the  bodies  of  men,  which  they  covet 
for  meat,"  and  against  whom  diligent  watch  must 
be  kept  night  and  day.  We  know  not  whether  some 
confused  rumour  of  the  shark  and  alligator  had  an 
mfluence  in  suggesting  this  strange  precaution. 

The  question  was  now  to  elect  a  fitting  commander, 
and  many  offers  were  made  both  by  persons  qualified 
and  unqualified.  The  choice  for  the  supreme  direc- 
tion fell  finally  on  Sir  Hugh  Willoughby.  His  re- 
commendations, as  mentioned  by  Adams,  were  high 
birth,  tall  and  handsome  person,  vsdiant  conduct, 
and  skill  in  war,— merits  probably  enhanced  by  ad- 
miration of  the  heroism  which  impelled  him  to  ad- 
ventuia  himself  in  this  new  and  daring  career.  Na 
mention  being  made  of  nautical  experience,  it  may 
be  suspected,  that,  amid  so  many  brilliant  qualities, 
this  most  essential  requisite  was  not  duly  tiucen  ihto 
account  The  command  of  the  next  vessel  was  given 
to  Richard  Chancelor,  «i  ileve  of  Heniy  Sidney,  fa- 
ther of  Sir  Philip,  and  who  first  gave  lustre  to  that 
great  name.    Sidney  stood  high  in  the  favour  of  the 


96 


NORTH'KABT  TOTAOM. 


king,  and  was  inspired  with  the  most  arfent  zeal 
for  the  promotion  of  the  voyage.  Chancelor  is  spe- 
cially commended  for  "  the  many  good  parts  of  wit 
m  him,  tending  to  inspire  the  most  sanguine  hopes 
of  his  success. 

AU  preparations  bemg  thus  completed.  King  Ed- 
ward drew  up  a  letter  addressed  to  all  "  kings, 
pnnces,  rulers,  judges,  and  governors  of  the  earth :" 
which,  if  composed  by  himself,  certainly  reflects  very 
considerable  credit  upon  liis  spirit  and  judgment. 
He  observes  to  these  unknown  potentates,  that "  the 
great  and  Almighty  God  hath  given  unto  mankind, 
aDove  aU  other  living  creatures,  such  a  heart  and 
desire,  that  every  man  desireth  to  join  friendship 
with  other,  to  love  and  to  be  loved,  also  to  give  and 
receive  mutual  benefits."    He  represents,  therefore, 
the  duty  of  showing  kindness  to  strangers,  and  espe. 
cially  to  "merchants  who  wander  about  the  worid, 
se^ch  both  the  land  and  the  sea,  to  carry  such  good 
and  profitable  things  as  are  found  in  their  countries 
to  remote  regions  and  kingdoms."    With  this  view. 
It  IS  stated,  that  a  valiant  knight.  Sir  Hugh  Wil- 
loughby,  and  other  trusty  and  faithful  servants,  had 
departed  from  England.    "  We  therefore  desire  you. 
Hings  and  princes,  and  all  other  to  whom  there  is 
any  power  on  the  earth,  to  permit  unto  these,  our  ser- 
vants, free  passage  by  your  regions  and  dominions, 
for  they  shall  not  touch  any  thing  of  yours  unwiUine 
imto  you."    If  such  kindness  were  shown,  he  con- 
cludes,—" We  promise,  by  the  God  of  all  things  that 
Me  co-.tauied  in  heaven,  earth,  and  the  sea,  and  by 
the  bfe  and  tranquillity  of  our  kingdoms,  that  we 
will  with  like  humanity  accept  your  servants,  if  at 
any  time  they  shall  come  to  our  kingdoms." 

It  was  judged  inexpedient  to  delay  the  depart^ 
nre  of  the  vessels  beyond  the  10th  of  May,  lest 
tuey  should  be  overtaken  by  winter  in  the  northern 
latitudes.  All  the  members  of  the  expedition  took 
a  solemn  and  tender  leave  of  their  relations,  kindnd. 


M. 

most  ardent  zeal 

Chancelor  is  spe- 

good  parts  of  wit 

«t  sangfuine  hopes 

npleted,  King  Ed- 
d  to  all  "liings, 
ore  of  the  earth ;" 
ainly  reflects  very 
it  and  judgment, 
entaies,  that "  the 
en  unto  mankind, 
such  a  heart  and 
o  join  friendship 
li  also  to  give  and 
resents,  therefore, 
rangere,andesp<>. 
about  the  world, 
>  carry  such  good 
in  their  countries 
With  this  view, 
;,  Sir  Hugh  Wil- 
lful servants,  had 
refore  desire  you, 

0  whom  there  is 
ito  these,  our  ser- 
s  and  dominions, 
r  yours  unwilling 
9  shown,  he  con- 
of  all  things  that 

1  the  sea,  and  by 
igdoms,  that  we 
ur  servants,  if  at 
Igdoms." 

elay  the  depart- 
th  of  May,  lest 
r  in  the  northern 
expedition  took 
ilaUonsiUndnd* 


NORTH-SABT   VOVAOES. 


07 


and  "  friends  dearer  than  kindred,"  and  were  at  their 
station  on  the  appointed  day.  The  vessels  early  in 
the  morning  dropped  down  from  Ratcliffe  to  Green- 
wich, where  the  court,  and,  as  it  were,  the  nation, 
were  assembled  to  witness  and  hail  their  departure. 
The  king  himself  was  confined  by  iUness,but  the 
principal  courtiere  stood  at  the  palace  windows,  the 
rest  of  the  household  mounted  the  towers,  while  the 
people  in  crowds  lined  the  shore.  The  ships  fired 
their  guns,  causing  the  hills  and  valleys  to  resound ; 
and  "  the  mariners  shouted  in  such  sort,  that  the  sky 
rung  with  the  noise  thereof.  In  short,  it  was  a  very 
triumph."  The  thought  of  the  distant  and  unknown 
seas  mto  which  they  were  so  perilously  plunging 
was  either  forgotten,  jn  this  moment  of  exultation, 
or  served  only  to  heighten  its  enthusiasm. 

The  expedition,  after  stopping  a  few  days  at  Black- 
wall,  sailed  down  to  Woolwich  and  Gravesend,  and 
thence  to  the  coast  of  Essex,  where  contrary  winds 
unfortunately  detained  them  till  the  83d.  Then,  with 
a  favouring  iple,  they  quitted  England,  and  shaped 
tlieir  course  mto  the  open  expanse  of  the  German 
Sea.  The  sailors,  however,  fixed  their  eyes  on  their 
native  land  as  it  gradually  receded,  and  many,  unac- 
customed to  these  distant  voyages,  dropped  a  few 
natural  tears  at  the  thought  that  they  saw  it  perhaps 
for  the  last  time. 

Sir  Hugh  was  desirous  of  touching  at  the  coast  of 
Scotland,  but  this  was  rendered  impossible  by  con- 
trary winds,  which  obliged  him  also  to  make  fre- 
ouent  changes  of  course,  "  traversing  and  tracing 
the  seas."  On  the  14th  July,  he  found  himself  in- 
volved in  that  labyrinth  of  isles  which  stud  the 
coast  of  Norway  between  the  66th  and  68th  degrees 
of  latitude.  The  ships  then  bumd  eastward  and 
out  to  sea,  till  they  came  to  the  larger  range  of 
the  Lofoot  (Loffoden)  Isles.  The  people,  sub- 
ject to  Denmark,  were  gentle  and  courteous ;  but 
the  English,  evidently  iirnorant  of  this  coast,  sought 


98 


WORTH-EAST  TOYAOES. 


in  vain  to  learn  how  these  islands  were  situated 
with  regard  to  tlie  Norwegian  shore.  They  pro- 
ceeded onward  to  the  large  island  of  Seynam,  or 
Senjan,  where  they  endeavoured  without  success  to 
.procure  a  pilot.  They  were  now  approaching  the 
northern  cape  of  Europe,  and  saw  before  them  the 
abyss  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  stretching  onwards  to  the 
Pole,  and  soon  to  be  iilled  with  shows  and  tempests. 
In  this  critical  conjuncture,  Sir  Hugh  assembled 
the  commanders,  and  exhorted  them  to  keep  close 
together ;  but,  in  case  of  separation,  appointed  their 
rendezvous  at  Wardhuys,  understood  to  be  the  prin 
cipal  port  of  Finmark.  The  wisdom  of  this  precau- 
tion soon  appeared.  Before  the  English  could  enter  a 
harbour,  there  arose  such  "flawes  of  wind  and  terrible 
whirlwinds,"  that  they  were  obliged  to  stand  out  to 
the  open  sea,  and  allow  the  vessels  to  drift  at  the 
mercy  of  the  waves.  Amid  the  tliick  mists  of  the 
next  stormy  night  the  vessels  of  Willonghby  and 
Chancelor  separated,  and  never  again  met.  Cle- 
ment Adams,  who  was  with  Chancelor,  says,  that 
as  they  were  driving  before  the  gale,  the  Admiral 
loudly  and  earnestly  called  upon  them  to  keep  close 
to  him ;  but  that  he  himself  carried  so  much  sail, 
and  his  vessel  was  so  superior,  that  Chancelor  could 
not  possibly  obey  this  order,  Willoughby's  pinnace 
was  dashed  to  pieces  amid  the  tempest ;  and  next 
morning,  when  light  dawned,  he  could  see  neither 
of  his  companions;  but,  discovering  at  length  tho 
smaller  vessel  called  the  Confidence,  he  continued  his 
voyage.  He  now  sailed  nearly  two  hundred  miles 
north-east  and  by  north,  but  was  astonished  and  be- 
wildered at  not  discovering  any  symptom  of  land ; 
whence  it  appeared  that  "the  land  lay  not  as  the 

globe  made  mention."  The  imperfect  maps  of  those 
ays  appear  not  to  have  shown  that  rapid  southerly 
bend  winch  the  coast  takes  towards  the  great  opening 
of  the  Waranger  Fiord,  on  which  Wardhuys  is  si- 
tuated.  Instead  therefore,ofsailingalongortowards 


»~'«^g| 


s  were  rituafed 
are.  They  pro. 
I  of  Seynam,  or 
thout  success  to 
approaching  the 
before  them  the 
J  onwards  to  the 
vs  and  tempests, 
lugh  assembled 
m  to  keep  close 
,  appointed  their 
d  to  be  the  prin 
n  of  this  precau- 
ish  could  enter  a 
wind  and  terrible 
1  to  stand  out  to 
8  to  drift  at  the 
ck  mists  of  the 
Willoughby  and 
r-din  met.  Clc- 
celor,  says,  that 
lie,  the  Admiral 
!m  to  keep  close 
d  BO  much  sail, 
Chancelor  could 
ughby's  pinnace 
npest ;  and  next 
>uld  see  neither 
at  length  the 
16  continued  his 
)  hundred  miles 
;oni8hed  and  be- 
mptom  of  land ; 
lay  not  as  the 
ct  maps  of  those 
rapid  southerly 
lie  great  opening 
T^Taidhuys  is  si> 
ilong  or  towards 


NORTH'SABT  T0TA0E8.  90 

he  coast  of  Norway,  he  was  plunging  alvnyn  deeper 
ftnd  deeper  into  the  abysses  of  the  northern  ocean. 
At  length  the  soundings,  indicating  a  depth  of  160 
fathoms,  proved  the  navigators  to  be  far  out  at  sea,  m- 
volved  in  some  great  and  perilous  error.  They  then 
for  some  time  took  a  direction  to  the  south-east,  yet 
afterward  again  turned  to  the  north,  and  continued 
shifting  their  courses  amid  doubt  and  uncertainty. 
Thus,  as  they  groped  their  way  through  these  vast 
and  stormy  seas,  at  length  land  appeared,  but  high, 
desolate,  and  covered  with  snow,  while  no  sound 
could  be  wafted  over  the  waves  except  the  crash  of 
iu  falling  ice,  and  the  hungry  roar  of  ite  monsters. 
This  coast  was  evidently  that  of  Nova-Zembla;  but 
there  was  no  point  at  which  a  landing  could  be  made. 
After  another  attempt  to  push  to  the  northward,  the 
mariners  became  sensible  that  the  coast  of  Norway 
was  to  be  found  only  by  an  entire  change  of  direc- 
tion. They  turned  to  the  south-west,  and  having 
followed  that  course  for  a  number  of  days  saw  the 
coast  of  Russian  Lapland.  Here  they  must  have 
been  very  near  the  opening  into  the  White  Sea,  into 
which,  had  fortune  guided  their  sails,  they  would 
have  reached  Archangel,  have  had  a  joyful  meeting 
with  their  comrades,  and  spent  the  winter  in  com- 
fort and  security.  An  evil  destiny  led  them  west- 
ward, in  the  hope,  probably,  of  reaching  Wardhuys, 
the  only  point  in  those  immense  seas  of  which  they 
had  any  distinct  knowledge.  The  coast  was  naked, 
uninhabited,  and  destitute  of  shelter,  except  at  one 
point,  where  they  found  a  shore  bold  and  rocky,  but 
with  one  or  two  good  harbours.  Here,  though  ft  was 
only  the  middle  of  September,  they  felt  already  all 
the  premature  rigours  of  a  northern  season ;  intense 
frost,  snow,  and  ice  drivinp  through  the  air,  as  though 
it  had  been  the  depth  of  » inter.  The  officers  con 
ceived  it  therefore  most  expedient  to  searoh  no  longer 
along  these  desolate  shores,  but  to  take  up  their  quar- 
ters in  this  haven  till  the  ensuing  spring.    They  were 


-w^JSi^ 


too 


K0RTR-SA8T  TOTAOEi. 


mirpnsed  by  the  appearances  of  Arctic  zoology,  rein- 
deer,  foxes,  polar  bears,  and  "  divers  beasts  to  them 
unknown,  and  therefore  wonderful." 

The  narratire  here  closes,  and  the  daricest  gloom 
"l^vplvea  the  fate  of  this  first  English  expedition. 
Neither  the  commander  nor  any  of  his  brave  com- 
paiuons  ever  returned  to  their  native  shores.  After 
long  suspense  and  anxiety,  tidings  reached  England 
that  some  Rassian  sailors,  as  they  wandered  along 
these  dreary  boundaries,  had  been  astonished  by  the 
view  of  two  large  ships,  which  they  entered,  and 
fmrnd  the  gallant  crews  all  lifeless.  There  was  only 
the  journal  of  the  voyage,  with  a  note  written  in  Ja- 
nuary, showing  that  at  that  date  the  crews  were  still 
alive.  What  was  the  immediate  cause  of  a  catas- 
trophe so  dismal  and  so  complete,  whether  the  ex- 
tremity of  cold,  famine,  or  disease,  or  whether  all 
these  ills  united  at  once  assailed  them,  can  now  only 
be  matter  of  sad  coi^ecture.  Thomson  thus  pathe 
tieaUy  laments  their  fate  :— 

_^  BfiiwntUe  thejr, 

Who,  hem  mUpiiM  In  the  (Mberinc  iee. 
Tike  their  iMt  look  of  the  dMcendinf  ann , 
While,  ftdlmr  dwth,  and  flerce  with  lenfbld  ftrnt, 
The  long,  long  night.  Incumbent,  o^r  their  head*. 
FWU  horrible.    Such  wae  the  Briton'i  Ikte, 
At  with  Jtrst  prow  (what  hare  not  Brilona  dand '  i 
He  for  the  pMMg*  longht,  attempted  lihoa 
8a  much  in  vain, 

We  must  now  follow  the  career  of  Chancelor,  with 
whom  we  parted  amid  the  tempest  which  overtook 
the  ships  at  the  extremity  of  Norway.  This  com- 
mander pressed  on,  and,  by  keeping  close  to  the 
shore,  or  by  obtaining  better  information,  succeeded 
without  any  difficulty  in  reaching  Wardhuys.  There 
he  waited  for  his  companion  seven  dayn,  after  which, 
disregarding  the  alarming  reports  of  perils  which 
would  beset  his  farther  progress,  he  pushed  on  gal- 
lantly towards  his  mysterious  destination.  "  He  held 
OQ'lus  course  towards  that  unknown  part  of  the 


.4.tb. 


r«B^| 


tic  zoology,  rcin- 

s  beaits  to  them 
» 

e  daricest  doom 
lish  expedition. 
r  his  brave  com- 
B  shores.  Aftei 
cached  England 
wandered  along 
stonished  by  the 
ey  entered,  and 
There  was  only 
:e  written  in  Ja- 
crews  were  still 
ause  of  a  catas- 
vhetherthe  ex- 
,  or  whether  all 
n,  can  now  only 
son  thuspathe 


fbfdfhMt, 

ilrbawb, 

hte, 

xisiland'i 

lea 


Chancelor,with 
vhich  overtook 
iy.  This  com- 
?  close  to  the 
tion,  succeeded 
tlhuys.  There 
jrsjtdlter  which, 
f  perils  which 
pushed  on  gal< 
on.  "He held 
n  part  of  the 


XGRTH-EAST  TOTAOM. 


101 


world,  and  sailed  so  far,  that  he  came  at  last  to  the 

Elace  where  he  found  no  night  at  all,  but  a  contmual 
ght  and  brightness  of  the  sun,  shining  clearly  upon 
the  great  and  mighty  sea."  As  this  was  August,  it 
seems  mysterious  how  the  perpetual  light  of  the 
northern  midsummer  should  have  been  perceived  for 
the  first  time,  and  have  been  ascribed  to  the  progress 
eastward.  Probably  a  course  of  gloomy  weather 
had  preceded  and  rendered  it  for  the  first  time  sensible. 
Thus,  however,  the  adventurers  were  guided  to  the 
entrance  of  an  immense  bay,  which  was  no  other 
than  the  White  Sea, — a  grand  feature  yet  unknown 
to  Western  Europe.  They  espied  a  little  fishing-boat, 
the  crew  of  which,  having  never  seen  a  vessel  of 
similar  magnitude,  were  as  much  astonished  as  the 
native  Americans  had  been  at  the  Spaniards,  and, 
taking  the  alarm,  fled  at  full  speed.  Chancelor,  with 
his  party,  pursued  and  overtook  them ;  whereupon 
they  fell  flat  on  the  ground,  half-dead,  crying  for 
mercy.  He  immediately  raised  them  most  courte- 
ously, and  by  looks,  gestures,  and  gifts,  expressed  the 
most  kind  intentions.  Being  then  allowed  to  depart, 
they  spread  every  where  the  report  of  the  arrival 
"of  a  strange  nation,  of  singular  gentleness  and 
courtesy."  The  natives  came  in  crowds,  and  the 
sailors  were  copiously  supplied  with  provisions  and 
*very  thing  they  wanted. 

Chancelor  now,  inquiring  on  what  part  of  the 
world  he  had  been  thrown,  learned  that  he  was  at 
the  extremity  of  a  vast  country,  then  obscurely 
known  to  Western  Europe  under  the  title  of  Russia 
or  Muscovy,  and  which  was  under  the  absolute  rule 
of  a  sovereign  named  Ivan  Vasilovitch.  Although 
the  court  at  Moscow  was  immensely  distant,  and 
could  only  he  reached  by  sledges  over  the  snow, 
Chancelor  immediately  began  to  negotiate  for  per- 
mission to  visit  the  capital  of  this  great  potentate ; 
which  he  obtained  after  the  delay  of  sending  to 
Moscow.  His  journey  to  that  city  carryinir  him  out 
Is 


'*'«^ 


102 


KORTR-kAST  rOVAOKI. 


T 


of  the  sphere  of  Arctic  discovery,  it  will  suffice  tb 
say,  that  he  was  received  in  the  most  satisfactory 
manner,  and  returned  with  a  letter  from  the  Czar, 
expressing  a  cordial  desire  to  open  an  intercourse 
with  Enffland,  and  to  grant  to  the  Company  of  Mer- 
chant-Adventurers  every  privilege  necessary  to  en- 
able them  to  carry  on  traffic  in  his  kingdom.  The 
traders  now  assumed  the  title  of  the  Muscovy  Com- 
pany ;  and  the  same  officer  was  again  sent  out  with 
credentials  from  Philip  and  Mary,  who,  in  conse- 
quence of  thepremature  death  of  Edward,  then  filled 
the  throne.  The  original  object  of  an  eastern  pas- 
sage was  not  lost  sight  of;  the  captain  being  in- 
structed to  make  every  possible  inquiry  on  the  sub- 
ject. The  spirit  of  discovery  at  homo  was  too  ar- 
dent, however,  to  wait  his  return.  A  small  vessel, 
called  the  Searchthrift,  was  fitted  out  in  1656,  and 
placed  under  the  command  of  Stephen  Burroughs, 
who,  on  the  first  voyage,  had-  acted  as  master  of 
Richard  Chancelor's  vessel.  Enthusiasm  and  hope 
seem  to  have  risen  as  high  as  at  the  departure  of  the 
first  expedition;  Sebastian  Cabot  came  down  to 
Gravesend  with  a  large  party  of  ladies  and  gentle- 
men, and,  having  first-gone  on  board,  and  partaken 
of  such  cheer  as  the  vessel  afforded,  invited  Bur- 
roughs and  his  company  to  a  splendid  banquet  at  the 
sign  of  the  Christopher.  After  dinner,  a  dance  being 
proposed,  the  venerable  pilot  started  up  and  tripped 
it  along  with  the  most  youthful  of  the  party. 

Under  these  cheerful  auspices,  Burroiuhs,  on  the 
89th  of  April,  sailed  from  Gravesend.  Various  cir- 
cumstances delayed  till  tha  middle  of  July  his  arrival 
at  the  islands  and  straits  of  Waygatz,  between  Nova 
Zembla  and  the  continent.  On  the  31st  the  crew 
saw  what  they  imagined  to  be  land,  but  it  proved  to 
be  "  a  monstrous  heap  of  ice,  which  was  a  fearful 
Bight  to  see."  They  were  soon  entangled  in  it,  and 
for  six  hours  could  with  difficulty  avoid  one  mass 
without  striking  upon  another.    Soon  after  an  im- 


J^ 


it  will  suffice  to 
nost  satisractory 
■  from  the  Czar, 
n  an  intercourse 
'ompany  of  Mer- 
necessary  to  en- 

l(in^dom.  The 
e  Muscovy  Com- 
jin  sent  out  with 

who,  in  conse- 
Iward,  then  filled 

an  eastern  pas- 
aptain  being  in- 
uiry  on  the  sub- 
3mo  was  too  ar- 

A  small  vessel, 
out  in  1556,  and 
)hen  Burroughs, 
jd  as  master  of 
isiasm  and  hope 
departure  of  the 

came  down  to 
lies  and  gentle- 
'd,  and  partaken 
ed,  invited  Bur- 
id  banquet  at  the 
er,  a  dance  being 
1  up  and  tripped 
tie  party. 
lUToiwhs,  on  the 
d.  Various  cir- 
r  July  his  arrival 
s,  between  Nova 
i  31st  the  crew 
but  it  proved  to 
h  was  a  fearful 
mgled  in  it,  and 
tvoid  one  mass 
>n  after  an  im- 


NORTH'EAST   VOYAGES. 

tnense  whale  came  so  close,  that  they  might  have 
thrust  a  sword  into  him  ;  but,  alarmed  lest  he  should 
overset  the  vessel.  Burroughs  called  together  his 
men,  and  caused  them  to  shout  with  all  their  might ; 
upon  which  this  mighty  animal,  which  is  neither  fe- 
rocious nor  very  courageous,  plunged  into  the  depths 
with  a  terrible  noise. 

Among  the  islands  of  Waygatz,  the  English  descried 
a  Russiamsail.  The  master,  named  Loshak,  stated 
himself  to  be  in  extreme  haste ;  but,  on  receiving  a 
glass,  two  pewter  spoons,  and  two  knives,  he  pre- 
sented seventeen  wild  geese,  and  gave  much  infor- 
mation. He  stated  this  to  be  the  country  of  the 
wild  Samoides,  who  owned  no  subjection  to  Russia, 
but  "  will  shoot  at  all  men  to  the  uttermost  of  their 
power  that  cannot  speak  their  speech ;"  it  was  even 
said  that  they  ate  the  Russians.  Loshak  led  the 
captain  to  a  place  left  by  these  people,  where  there 
were  still  three  hundred  of  their  idols,  the  rudest 
workmanship  Burroughs  ever  saw.  They  consisted 
of  figures  of  men,  women,  and  children,  "  very  grossly 
wrought ;  the  eyes,  mouths,  and  other  parts  stained 
with  blood."  We  may  here  mention  tnat  Johnson, 
one  of  the  party,  when  at  the  Pechora,  had  been 
present  at  a  mighty  scene  of  magic  incantation,  per- 
formed by  one  of  the  great  northern  wizardbi.  This 
personage  first  took  a  great  sieve,  somewhat  resem- 
bling a  drum,  then  he  began  to  sing  "  as  we  use  m 
England  to  halloo,  whoop,  and  shout  at  hounda,"  to 
which  the  company  responded  with — igha,  igha,  igha ! 
At  length  the  ma^cian  fell  into  convulsions,  and 
dropped  down  as  if  dead,  though  he  could  still  be 
heard  breathing.  Johnson,  having  asked  the  mean- 
ing of  all  this,  was  told—"  Now  doth  our  god  tell  him 
what  we  shall  do!"  Having  thus  allowed  him  to 
remain  for  a  short  time,  the  people  began  to  cry 
aghao,  aghao !  whereupon  he  rose  and  again  began 
to  sing.  He  next  took  a  sword  and  thrust  it  through 
his  body,  causing  it  to  enter  at  the  breast  and  isaua 


104 


NORTH-BABT  VOYAOKf. 


at  the  back.  Johnson  iaw  it  go  into  the  shirt 
before,  and  come  out  at  the  shirt  behind,  but 
does  not  seem  to  have  acrutiniied  with  any  dili' 
gence  its  actual  passage  through  the  person.  The 
sword,  urobably  only  of  iron,  had  been  heated,  which 
would  favour  greatly  a  circuitous  track.  The  magi- 
cian  then  sat  down  with  a  vessel  of  hot  water  before 
him,  and  a  line  or  rope  of  deer-skin  {massed  round  his 
body,  over  all  which,  as  well  as  himself,  a  spacious 
cloth  mantle  was  spread.  The  ends  of  the  line,  be- 
ing left  without  the  mantle,  were  drawn  tight  by  two 
men  on  opposite  sides,  till  something  was  heard  fall- 
ing into  the  dish.  Johnson,  asking  what  this  was, 
learned  with  horror  that  it  was  the  magician's  head, 
shoulder,  and  left  arm,  severed  from  the  body  by  the 
violent  pulUng  of  the  rope.  Johnson  besought  that 
he  might  be  allowed  to  lift  the  cloak  and  view  this 
awftil  spectacle,  but  was  assured  that  no  one  could  do 
8<r  and  live.  After  the  multitude  had  sung  and  hal- 
looed for  some  time,  the  cloak  was  lifted,  when  the 
wizard  came  forth  perfectly  entire,  all  the  parts  cut 
asunder  having,  it  seems,  been  miraculously  replaced. 
The  imposture,  liowever  gross  and  obvious,  appears  to 
have  completely  succeeded  with  the  ignorant  natives. 
Burroughs  had  passed  fifteen  leagues  beyond  the 
mouth  of  the  Pechora,  and  the  soundings  indicated 
an  approach  to  Nova  Zembla,  when  he  came  to  the 
conclnsion,  that  all  attempts  to  penetrate  farther  this 
year  would  be  abortive  Among  other  causes,  he 
mentions  the  imtoward  north  and  north-easterly 
winds,  which  were  more  powerful  than  in  any  othei 
place  he  ever  knew ;  the  great  and  terrible  abundance 
of  ice,  of  which  he  had  reason  always  to  expect 
greater  store;  the  nights  waxing  dark,  and  Winter 
with  his  stonns  bennning  to  draw  on.  Under  these 
considerations  he  determined  to  return  and  winter  at 
Colmogro,  stating  his  intention  to  resume  next  sum- 
mer his  attempts  to  penetrate  eastward ;  but  this,  in 
consequence  of  other  «<mployment,  was  never  carried 
into  effect. 


T 


mim 


IKS. 

SO  into  the  shirt 
shirt  behind,  but 
ed  with  any  dili- 
the  person.  The 
teen  heated,  which 
;rack.  The  magi* 
f  hot  water  berore 
n  passed  round  his 
limself,  a  spacious 
ds  of  the  hne,  be- 
Irawn  tieht  by  two 
tig  was  heard  fall< 
;  what  this  was, 
!  maincian's  head, 
m  the  body  by  the 
son  besought  that 
oali  and  view  this 
lat  no  one  could  do 
had  sung  and  hal- 
B  lifted,  when  the 
,  all  the  parts  cut 
culously  replaced, 
ibvious,  appears  to 
3  ignorant  natives, 
igues  beyond  the 
undings  indicated 
m  he  came  to  the 
etrate  farther  this 
other  causes,  he 
id  north-easterly 
than  in  any  othei 
errible  abundance 
ilways  to  expect 
lark,  and  Winter 
on.  Under  Uiese 
urn  and  winter  at 
-esume  next  sum- 
vard ;  but  this,  in 
waa  never  carried 


WORTH-BAST   VOTAaC*. 


100 


Tliere  occurred  now  a  tragical  incident  connected 
with  northern  discovery.  Tlie  Czar,  Ivan  Vasilovitch, 
sent  back  with  Richard  Chancelor  his  ambassador  and 
orator,  as  he  is  termed,  Osep  Nepea  Grfegorowitch,  with 
four  ships  heavily  laden  with  furs,  wax,  train-oil,  and 
other  Russian  commodities,  to  the  value  of  upwards 
of  £90,000,  which  belonged  partly  to  the  merchants 
and  partly  to  the  orator.  On  this  homeward  voyage, 
two  of  the  vessels  were  wrecked  on  the  coast  of 
Norway,  a  third  reached  the  Thames,  but  the  Ed- 
ward Bonaventure,  in  which  were  the  chiefs  of  the 
expedition,  was  driven  by  the  tempest  into  the  bay 
of  Pittisligo  (Pitsligo),  in  the  north  of  Scotland,  where 
It  went  entirely  to  pieces.  Chancelor  endeavoured, 
in  a  very  dark  night,  to  convey  himself  and  the  am- 
bassador ashore  in  a  boat.  The  skiff  waa  over- 
whelmed by  the  tempest,  and  the  captain  drowned, 
though  the  ambassador,  by  great  good  fortune,  suc- 
ceeded in  reaching  the  land.  He  thence  proceeded 
to  London,  where  Philip  and  Mary  gave  hiln  a  splen- 
did and  pompous  reception. 

A  disastrous  character  upon  the  whole  was  thua 
given  to  these  voyages  along  the  northern  boundary 
of  Europe  and  Asia.  This  would  not  probably  have 
damped  the  high  spirit  of  enterprise  by  which  the 
British  were  then  animated;  but  the  Muscovy  Com- 
pany had  their  attention  diverted  by  the  project  of 
opening  a  communication  with  Persia  and  India, 
across  the  Caspian,  and  by  ascending  the  Oxus  to 
Bochara.  This  scheme  they  prosecuted  at  great  Cost, 
and  by  a  series  of  bold  adventures,  in  which  Jenkin- 
son,  Johnson,  Alcocke,  and  other  of  their  agents, 
penetrated  deep  into  the  interior  regions  of  Asia. 
An  unusual  den'oe  of  courage  was  indeed  necessary 
to  undertake  this  expedition,  which  was  to  be  begun 
by  passing  round  the  North  Cape  to  tlie  White  Sea, 
then  by  a  land-jouniey  and  voyage  down  the  Volga, 
across  the  whole  breadth  of  the  Russian  empire  to 
Aatrakhan,  before  they  could  even  embark  on  the 


^^w^^^y^'ijwy 


106 


NORTR-KAIT  TOTAOIt. 


Caapiuii.  The  truth  i«,  such  a  ■clieme  was  marked 
by  the  iipioranco  uot  less  ttian  by  the  boldness  of 
early  mercantile  enterprise.  It  was  soon  ascertainedi 
that  no  goods  could  bear  the  cost  of  such  an  immense 
and  dangoroui  conveyance  by  sea  and  landt  that 
the  goods  of  India  could  be  brought,  and  those  of 
Europe  returned,  much  cheaper  and  more  commo 
diously,  by  tlie  way  of  Aleppo  and  the  Mediterranean, 
than  by  this  vast  circuit  round  the  stormy  north. 
If  the  former  conveyance,  therefore,  could  not  stand 
a  competition  with  the  water  carriage  by  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  how  could  the  latter  f  It  was  aban- 
doned, and  no  attertipt  for  a  long  time  was  made  to 
levive  it. 

This  channel  of  intercourse  with  India  having 
failed,  the  attention  of  commercial  and  nauticcl  ad- 
venturers was  again  attracted  to  the  possibility  of 
effecting  a  passage  by  the  north  and  east  of  Asia. 
Intelligence  had  just  been  received  respecung  the 
river  Obi,  which  was  reported  to  enter  the  ocean  by 
seventy  mouths,  and  which  therefore  seemed  likely 
to  communicate  with  the  most  important  countries 
In  the  interior  of  Asia.  John  Balak,  who  had  taken 
up  his  residence  at  Duisburg,  on  the  river  Osella, 
wrote  to  Gerard  Mercator,  the  famous  cosmographer, 
a  particular  account  of  this  river,  and  of  the  efforts 
made  by  Aasenius,  a  native  of  the  Netherlands,  to 
penetrate  eastward  along  the  Asiatic  coast.  He 
mentions  in  particular  another  river  called  a  tributary 
of  the  Obi,  but  which,  from  the  details,  appears 
rather  to  have  been  the  Yenisei,  down  which  came 
"great  vessels  laden  with  rich  and  precious  mer- 
chandise, brought  by  black  or  swart  people."  In 
ascending  this  river,  men  came  to  the  great  lake  of 
Kittay,  (Baikal!)  on  whose  banks  were  the  Kara 
KalmucB,  who,  he  asserts,  were  the  very  people  of 
Cathay.  It  was  added,  that  on  the  shores  of  this 
ake  had  been  heard  sweet  harmony  of  bells,  and 
iiat  stately  and  large  buildings  had  been  seefi  Uierein. 


T 


i>me  was  marked 
the  iMldncns  of 
■oon  ascertained, 
■uch  an  immense 
i  and  laiul;  that 
;ht,  and  tjiotie  of 
nd  mom  commo- 
he  Mediterranean, 
lie  stormy  north, 
c,  could  not  stand 
iage  by  the  Cupe 
;r  t  It  was  aban- 
;ime  was  made  to 

ith  India  havinr 
1  and  nauticcl  m- 
the  possibility  of 
and  east  of  Asia, 
id  respuc  im(r  the 
nter  the  ocean  by 
ore  seemed  likely 
portant  countries 
iK,  who  had  taken 
the  river  Osella, 
lus  cosmographer, 
and  of  the  efforts 
B  Netherlands,  to 
liatic  coast.  He 
'  called  a  tributary 
I  details,  appears 
lown  which  came 
nd  precious  mer- 
rart  people.**  In 
the  great  lake  of 
9  were  the  Kara 
le  very  people  of 
he  shores  of  this 
)ny  of  bells,  and 
been  seed  therein. 


NARTR'IAST  voYAfltS. 


10? 


Hcnre  Mercator,  in  a  letter  to  Hnkliivi.  infers  that  n 
very  small  pro^^ress  beyond  the  limit  already  reached 
by  nuviKHtorx  would  carryr  them  to  the  great  rnstem 
realms  of  Japan  and  China.  He  maintained  that 
the  capo  bounding  the  Gulf  of  Obi  was  no  other 
than  the  great  promontory  of  Tabis,  which,  accord- 
ing to  Plinv,  formed  the  north-eastern  boundary  of 
Asia;  which  being  turned,  the  fortunate  navigator 
would  bear  down  direct  upon  Sorica,  Cathay,  Cara- 
balu,— those  regions  with  which  ancient  and  modem 
rumour  had  identified  the  position  of  the  Chinese 
empire.  This  was  undcrratmg  the  breadth  of  Asia 
by  a  hundred  degrees  of  longitude,  or  more  than  a 
fourth  of  the  circumference  of  the  globe  at  this  paral> 
lei ;  yet  so  imperfect  were  tlie  sources  of  knowledge 
in  those  days,  that  the  error,  however  immense,  can- 
not  be  considered  as  fatal  to  the  reputation  of  this 
great  geographer. 

To  realize  these  views,  Arthur  Pet  and  Charles 
Jackman  were  supplied  in  1680  with  two  vessels,  the 
George  and  the  William.  On  the  93d  June  they 
arrived  at  Wardhuys ;  from  which  they  sailed  on  the 
1st  July.  Approaching  Nova  Zcmbla  they  found 
themselves  enclosed  m  a  bay  of  ice,  whence  they 
were  obliged  to  come  out  as  they  entered,  and  had 
much  trouble  before  they  were  able  to  round  the 
large  field  to  which  it  belonged.  On  the  19th  of 
Juljr  they  saw  Waygatz,  and  endeavoured  to  make 
their  way  along  its  southern  coast ;  but  found  it  so 
shallow  that  they  were  compelled  to  turn  and  make 
a  circuit  by  the  north.  Passing  onwards  they  came 
to  a  fair  low  island,  and  found  a  passage  between  the 
ice  and  the  shore,  which,  however,  at  length  closed, 
and  they  could  advance  no  farther.  At  the  same 
time  the  ships  were  separated  by  large  fields  of  ice, 
and  could  communicate  oidy  hr  beating  drums  and 
firing  muskets,  till  they  were  able  to  warp  roimd  and 
rejoin  each  other.  They  ei\]oyed  now  the  most 
favourable  breeze  i  but  aU  was  rendered  vain  by  the 


108 


NORTH-XAIT  TOTAOII. 


State  of  the  ice.  "  Winds  we  have  had  at  will,  bnt 
ice  and  fogs  too  much  against  our  wills  if  it  had 
pleased  the  Lord  Qod  otherwise."  The  captains 
determined  to  return  to  Waygatz,  where  tliey  might 
confer  together,  and  endeavour  to  find  a  more  open 
passage.  They  were  now  obUged  to  warp  from  one 
piece  of  ice  to  another,  some  of  them  so  large  that 
they  could  not  see  beyond  them  from  the  topmast. 
They  were  repeatedly  enclosed  by  these  masses,  en- 
veloped with  dark  fogs,  and  obUged  to  make  fast 
their  vessel  to  icebergs,  where, "  abiding  the  Lord's 
leisure,  they  continued  with  patience."  On  the  13th 
August  the  vessels  were  involved  among  pieces  of 
loose  ice,  one  of  which  broke  the  stock  of  their 
anchor,  "  and  many  other  great  blows  we  had  against 
the  same,  that  it  was  marvellous  the  ship  was  able  to 
abide  them."  The  boat,  being  between  the  floe  and 
the  brig,  was  struck,  its  side  driven  in,  and  the  vessel 
itself  was  made  to  recoil  backward.  Pet  and  Jack- 
man  did  npt  reach  Waygatz  tUl  the  16th  August,  by 
which  time^  it  being  found  impracticable  to  attempt 
penetrating  agsun  to  the  eastward,  they  sought  only 
to  repass  the  North  C^.  They  appear  to  have 
been  zealous,  well-fntentioned  men;  but,  not  duly 
acquainted  with  the  history  of  ice,  they  adhered  too 
closely  to  the  land,  whence  large  masses  are  conti« 
nually  detached  or  earned  down  by  the  rivers,  while 
the  open  sea  might  have  afforded  better  hopes  of  a 
prosperous  navigation. 

The  United  Prffoineet,  when  roused  to  resistance 
by  the  ferocious  bigotry  of  Philip,  and  by  the  cruel- 
ties of  the  remorseless  Alva,  after  a  long,  hard,  and 
glorious  struggle,  succeeded  in  establishing  their 
uttle  territory  as  an  independent  republic.  'Hience 
forth  they  began  to  look  to  the  sea  as  the  source  of 
their  greatness  and  prosperity.  This  element  sur- 
rounded and  penetrated  their  country  on  all  sides,— 
It  towered,  as  it  were,  above  them ;  and  they  hac 
employed  its  inundations  to  defend  their  small  domain 


MJIU 


ill. 

ve  had  at  will,  but 
)ur  wills  if  it  had 
'.."  The  captains 
where  t'ltey  might 
3  find  a  more  open 
1  to  warp  from  one 
them  so  large  that 
from  the  topmast. 
r  these  masses,  en- 
iged  to  make  fast 
Ed)iding  the  Lord's 
ice."  On  the  13th 
among  pieces  of 
the  stock  of  their 
iws  we  had  against 
le  ship  was  ^Ic  to 
tween  the  floe  and 
1  in,  and  the  vessel 
:d.  Pet  and  Jack- 
tie  16th  August,  by 
ticable  to  attempt 
I,  they  sought  only 
y  appear  to  have 
ten;  but,  not  July 
!,  they  adhered  too 
masses  are  conti* 
»y  the  rivers,  while 
better  hopes  of  a 

lused  to  resistance 
,  and  by  the  cruel- 
r  a  lon^,  hard,  and 
establishing  their 
epublic.  'Hience 
a  as  the  source  of 
This  element  sur- 
itry  on  all  sides,— 
im;  and  they  hai. 
their  small  domaii) 


NORTH-EAST  TOTAOE8. 


109 


against  immenseljr  superior  forces.  Commercfr«-a 
commerce  embracii.?  the  globe — was  necessary  to 
compensate  for  the  uanow  limits  within  which  thev 
were  hemmed,  and  to  raise  them  to  the  first  rank 
among  the  states  of  Europe.  The  East  was  the 
most  promising  quarter;  but  its  approaches  were 
strictly  guarded,  and  they  had  not  yet  a  fleet  which 
could  cope  w;th  the  mighty  armadas  of  Spain  in  the 
Atlantic  and  Indian  seas.  The  North  alone  was  open 
to  their  enterprise ;  and  by  passing  its  frozen  bound- 
aries, they  hoped  to  arrive  at  the  nch  and  celebrated 
empires  whence  so  ample  a  tide  of  wealth  had  flowed 
into  Europe. 

The  first  expedition  was  undertaken  by  a  private 
society  of  merchants,  upon  asking  permission  only 
of  the  States,  and  of  their  high  admiral.  Prince 
Maurice.  Three  vessels,  with  a  small  yacht,  were 
eqiiipped  at  Amsterdam,  Enchuysen,  and  Zealand. 
Tne  pilot  of  the  Amsterdam  ship,  to  whose  guidance 
the  expedition  was  generally  intrusted,  was  William 
Barentz,  who  a.pjpiTOved  himself  as  one  of  the  mos* 
expert  nautical  men  of  the  age. 

The  squadron  sailed  from  the  Texel  on  the  6th 
June  1594,  and  on  the  23d  arrived  at  the  island  of 
Kilduin  in  Muscovy.  Approaching  Nova  Zembla  it 
was  formed  into  two  divisions,  one  of  whidi  at- 
tempted to  pass  by  the  old  route  of  the  Strait  of 
Waygatz ;  but  Baientz  himself,  taking  a  bolder 
course,  endeavoured  to  pass  round  to  the  northward 
of  Nova  Zembla,  that  ^at  insular  mass  which  op. 
posed,  like  a  barrier,  his  eastward  {nroeress.  Here 
he  coasted  the  Bay  of  Loros,  so  called  from  the 
numerous  flocks  of  the  bird  of  that  name,  probably 
the  penguin,  with  wings  so  small  compared  to  its 
ample  tody,  that  it  seemed  astonislung  how  they 
coidd  support  the  creature's  motion  in  the  air.  Pass- 
ing  the  Black  Cape  and  William's  Me,  the  Dutch 
saw  various  features  characteristic  of  the  Arctic 
world ;  aiaoog  others  the  walrus,  in  large  herds.  tlMit 
K 


£?SySft5^-l^^fe;SSJS;Si<S^;vlfei^ 


mm"" 


no 


NORTR-SABT  TOTAOES. 


huge  amphibious  animal  called  varioualy  sea-horse 
or  sea-cow,  of  which  they  give  a  very  good  descrip* 
tion.  Subsequentlv,  at  the  Orange  Isles,  they  came 
upon  two  or  three  hundred  lying  in  heaps  upon  the 
sand,  and  basking  in  the  sun.  Having  formed  the 
erroneous  idea  tliat  these  animals  are  helpless  on 
shore,  the  sailors  marched  against  them  as  to  an 
assured  victory,  congratulating  themselves  on  the 
multitude  of  valuable  teeth  which  would  become  an 
easy  prize.  So  completely  were  they  mistaken,  that 
these  gallant  amphibia  not  only  encountered,  but 
beat  them  off  with  loss  and  dishonour,  breaking  in 
pieces  the  pikes,  hatchets,  and  sabres  employed  in 
this  fruitless  assault.  The  crews  sustained  also  the 
fierce  encounter  of  the  Polar  bear.  Having  seen 
one  on  the  shore,  they  entered  their  shallop,  and  dis- 
charged several  balls  at  him,  but  without  inflicting 
any  deadly  wound.  They  were  then  happy  when 
they  sncoeeded  in  throwing  a  noose  about  his  neck, 
hoping  to  lead  him  like  a  lapdog,  and  carry  him  as  a 
trophy  into  Holland;  They  were  not  a  little  alarmed 
by  his  mighty  and  tremendous  struggles :  but  what 
was  their  consternation,  when  he  fastened  his  paws 
on  the  stem  and  entered  the  boat !  The  whole  crew 
hastily  clung  to  the  poop,  expecting  instant  death, 
either  from  the  eea  or  from  his  jaws.  Providientially 
at  this  moment  the  noose  got  entangled  wiUi  the 
iron  work  of  the  rudder,  and  the  creature  struggled 
in  vain  to  extricate  himself.  Seeing  him  thus  fixed, 
they  at  length  summoned  courage  to  advance  and 
deroatch  him  with  their  spears. 

Barentz,  by  the  1st  August,  reached  the  northern 
extremity  of  Nova  Zembla,  in  lat.  77«>;  butthe  wmd 
blew  so  strong,  separating  the  ice  into  large  flakes, 
that  he  and  ms  crew,  rather  early  it  should  seem, 
gave  up  hope  and  resolved  to  return. 

Tlie  two  other  vessels  meantime  pushed  on  along 
the  coast,  and  in  due  time  arrived  at  Waygatz.  Hiis 
island  had  a  very  agreeable  aspect,  bei^g  covered 


iriia 


T 


18. 

iriously  8e»-horafl 
eiy  gdiad  descrip- 
I  Isles,  they  came 
I  heaps  upon  the 
[avkig  formed  the 
8  are  helpless  on 
It  them  as  to  an 
lemcelves  on  the 
would  become  an 
ley  mistaken,  that 
encountered,  but 
nour,  breaking^  in 
ibres  employed  in 
sustained  also  the 
a.  Having  seen 
r  shallop,  and  dis- 
without  ijaflicting 
then  happy  when 
»  about  his  neck, 
nd  carrv  him  as  a 
ot  a  little  aJarmed 
uggles :  but  what 
astened  his  paws 
The  whole  crew 
ng  instant  death, 
B.  ProTidpntially 
itangled  with  the 
n«ature  struggled 
Aghim  thusnxed, 
■»  to  advance  and 

ihed  the  northern 
77«;  but  the  wind 
into  large  flakes, 
yitshomd  seem, 
n. 

i  pushed  on  along 
It  Waygatz.  This 
ict,  being  covered 


NORTS-CA8T  TOTAOCS. 


Ill 


with  verdure  and  abundance  of  flowers,  herbs,  plants, 
and  particularly  a  great  store  of  leeks.  Large  trees 
were  Ijring  piled  in  heaps  over  each  other,  which  ap- 
peared very  surprising,  when  neither  on  this  nor  the 
opposite  coast  was  there  a  single  one  found  jrro  wing; 
but  it  was  rightly  judged  that  they  were  brought 
down  the  rivers  of  Tartary,  and  Aifted  hither  by 
winds  and  currents.  On  turning  a  point  the  Dutch 
observed  one  of  those  great  coUections  of  rudely 
carved  images  which  had  been  formerly  remarked  by 
Burroughs.  These  consisted  of  men,  women,  and 
children,  sometimes  having  Ax>m  four  to  eight  heads, 
all  with  their  faces  turned  eastward,  and  many  horns 
of  reindeer  lying  at  their  feet:  it  was  called,  there- 
fore, the  Cape  of  Idols.  Forster  alleges  that  the 
Samoiedes  have  been  falsely  charged  with  this  idda- 
try,  and  that  it  were  more  chantable  to  conclude 
these  to  have  been  images  of  departed  friends  whom 
they  cherished  with  pious  veneration;  but  it  does 
not  very  exactly  appear  how  the  Samoiedes  should 
have  had  friends  with  six  or  eight  faces. 

The  expedition  had  some  diflteulty  in  working 
their  way  throu|^  the  Strait  of  Waygatz,— after 
passing  which,  and  sailing  for  some  space  idong  the 
coast  of  Nova  Zembla,  they  were  repelled  by  tte  icy 
barriers ;  but  having  by  perseverance  rounded  thrae, 
they  arrived  at  a  wide,  brae,  open  sea,  witib  the  coast 
bending  rapidly  southward;  and  though  this  was 
only  the  shoro  of  the  6idf  of  Obi,  they  doid>ted  not 
that  it  was  the  eastern  boundary  of  Ana,  and  would 
afford  an  easy  passage  down  iqmn  China.  Instead, 
however,  of  prosecuting  this  voyage,  they  determined 
to  hasten  back  and  communicate  to  their  countrymen 
this  joyful  intelligence.  The  two  divisions  met  on 
the  coast  of  Rusrian  Lapland,  and  arrived  in  the 
Texel  on  the  16th  September. 

The  intelligence  conveyed  in  regard  to  the  latter 

Crt  of  this  expedition  kindled  the  most  sanguine 
pes  in  the  government  and  people  of  Hwlani 


M 


113 


NORTH-EAST  TOTAOBS* 


\\ 


V 


Prince  Maurice  and  the  Statea-Oeneral  no  longer 
confined  themselves  to  empty  praise  and  sanction, 
but  snpplied  funds  to  aid  m  a  fresh  voyage.  Six 
vessels  were  fitted  out,  not  as  for  adventure  and  dis- 
covery, but  as  for  assured  success,  and  for  canying 
on  an  extensive  traffic  inifae  golden  regions  of  the 
East.  They  were  laden  with  merchandise,  and  well 
supplied  with  money;  while  a  seventh,  a  light  yachtj 
was  instructed  to  follow  them  till  they  had  passed 
Tabis,  the  supposed  bbundingpromontory  or  Asia; 
when,  having  finally  extricated  themselves  from  the 
Polar  ices,  and  directed  their  course  to  China,  it  was 
to  return  to  Holland  with  the  jojrful  tidings.  Petei 
Planeius,  the  most  celebrated  cosmographer  of  that 
age,  drew  up  a  map  for  their  guidance, — doubtless 
in  our  eyes  a  very  crude  performance,  but  which 
combined  all  the  geographical  lights  of  that  ignorant 
period. 

The  armaments,  which  at  that  early  epoch  were 
set  forth  with  the  greatest  pomp  and  the  most  ample 
equipment,  usuaUy  issued  in  the  most  lame  and 
abortive  restdts.  These  large  and  heavily-laden  ves- 
sels were  peculiarly  ill  fitted  for  winding  their  way 
through  narrow  seas  and  channels  encumbered  with 
ice.  Of  all  the  northern  expeditions,  accordingly, 
none  answered  less  than  the  present  the  great  cost 
and  mamiiflcent  expectations  with  which  it  had  been 
equipped. 

The  sqnadron  sailed  firom  the  Texel  on  the  Sd  of 
June  (1596),  a  period  of  the  season  decidedly  too 
late.  Nothing  great  occurred  till  the  4th  August, 
when  they  reached  the  strait  between  Waygatz  and 
the  continent,  to  which  they  had  given  the  appellatioQ 
of  the  Strait  of  Naasan.  They  came  to  the  Cape 
of  Idols ;  but  though  these  were  still  dialm  up  in  full 
array,  no  trace  was  found  of  the  habitations  whidi 
they  might  have  seemed  to  indicate.  A  Russian  ves- 
sel, however,  constructed  of  pieces  of  bark  sewed 
together,  was  met  <n  its  way  from  the  Pechora  to 


B8. 

enerel  no  longer 
ise  and  sanction, 
ish  voyage.  Six 
dventure  and  dis- 
,  and  for  canying 
en  regions  of  the 
handise,  and  well 
inth,  a  light  yacht, 
they  had  passed 
nontory  or  Asia ; 
mselves  from  the 
Bto  China,  it  was 
il  tidings.  Petei 
lographer  of  that 
lance, — doubtless 
lance,  but  which 
9  of  that  ignorant 

early  epoch  were 
d  the  most  ample 
most  lame  and 
leavily-laden  ves- 
inding  their  way 
encumbered  with 
ons,  accordingly, 
Dt  the  gnat  cost 
which  it  had  been 

xel  on  the  3d  of 
on  decidedly  too 
the  4th  August, 
en  Waygatz  and 
en  the  a{n)el]ation 
ma  to  tne  Cape 
II  drawn  up  in  full 
lalntations  whidi 
.  A  Russian  ves- 
fl  of  bark  sewed 
t  the  Pechora  to 


KORTH-BAST  T0TAOE8. 


lis 


the  Obi  in  search  of  the  teeth  of  the  sea-horse,  whale- 
,  oil,  and  geese.  The  sailors  accosted  the  Dutch  in  a 
very  friendly  manner,  presented  eight  fat  birds,  and 
on  going  on  board  one  of  the  vessels,  Vere  strpck 
with  astonishment  at  its  magnitude,  its  equipments, 
and  the  high  order  with  which  eveiy  thing  was  ar- 
ranged. This  being  a  fast^ay,  they  refused  meat, 
butter,  and  cheese;  but,  on  being  offered  a  raw 
herring,  eagerly  swallowed  it  entire,  head  and  tail 
inclusive. 

The  navigators,  after  considerable  search,  fell  in 
with  a  party  of  Samoiedes,  who  are  described  as  a 
people  of  small  stature,  broad  and  flat  face,  little  eyes, 
short  legs,  and  wrapped  entirely  in  reindeer  skins, 
except  a  few  who  wore  colowed  cloth  lined  with  fur. 
They  manifested  considerable  jealousy  of  strangers, 
and  on  the  approach  of  the  interpreter,  had  drawn 
their  arrows  to  shoot  him;  but  he  called  aloud, 
"  We  are  friends;"  upon  which  they  laid  down  their 
weapons,  and  saluted  him  in  the  Russian  stjde,  by 
bending  their  heads  to  the  ground.  The  intercourse 
which  followed  was  conducted  on  their  part  with 
considerable  courtesy  and  good  sense,  mingled  with 
a  feeling  of  precaution  and  even  alarm.  Onhearing  a 
gun  fired,  they  ran  away  and  leaped  like  madmen, 
till  assured  that  no  harni  was  intended;  and  tliey 
were  then  amused  by  seeing  a  little  stone  placed  on 
an  eminenco  struck  and  shattered  to  pieces  by  a  mus- 
ket ball.'  A  sailor  boldly  went  up  to  the  chief,  dig* 
nified  in  the  narrative  with  the  title  of  king,  and  pre- 
sented him  with  some  biscuit,  which  the  monarch 
graciously  accepted  and  ate,  though  looking  round 
somewhat  suspiciously.  At  length  the  parties  took  a 
friendly  leave ;  but  a  native  ran  after  the  foreigners 
with  rigns  of  great  anger,  on  account  of  one  of  their 
rude  statues  which  a  sailor  had  carried  off.  These 
figures  were  now  judged  to  be  divinities,  and  the 
bones  found  lying  before  them  the  remains  of  sacri- 
fices offend  to  them  in  that  capacity.  The  Dutch 
K3 


Hi 


NORTH-BAST  V0TAOK8. 


seem  to  have  fonned  a  still  lower  estimate  than  Bm* 
roughs  of  Samoiede  sculpture.  These  images  are  de< 
[Rcribed  as  little  better  than  logs,  somewhat  rounded 
at  tlie  top  to  represent  ahead,  with  a  slight  projection 
for  the  nose,  two  little  holes  for  eyes,  and  one  larger 
aperture  to  represent  the  mouth. 

The  discoverers  had  been  informed,  in  answer  to 
diligent  inquiries,  that  beyond  a  point  which  might 
be  reached  in  about  five  days'  sail,  there  extended  a 
large  open  sea  to  the  south-east.  They  made  re- 
peated attempts  to  reach  this  point ;  but,  alter  emerg- 
mg  from  the  Strait  of  W^gatz,  were  always  driven 
back  by  large  bodies  of  floating  ice.  They  perse- 
vered till  the  end  of  September,  when  these  masses 
.  atered  the  Waygafz  in  such  force  that  they  were 
obliged  with  all  speed  to  quit  it  by  the  western  open- 
ing, and  bend  their  sails  towards  H(^and,  without 
havinff  accomplished  any  one  of  the  brilliant  objects 
for  which  this  expedition  had  been  undertaken. 

A  very  considerable  disappointment  was  felt  in 
that  country  at  the  failure  of  an  expedition,  from 
which  such  sanguine  hc^s  had  been  eherishecL 
The  States-General  declined  supidying  funds  for  a 
fresh  armament ; .  but  they  proclauned  a  reward  to  any 
individual  or  body  of  men  by  whom  the  object  might 
foe  successfully  accon^)li8hea.  Hie  town-council  of 
Amsterdam,  with  great  spirit,  determined  to  fit  out 
another  squadron,  on  a  smaller  scale,  and  equipped 
only  for  discovwy.  They  prepared  two  vessels, 
which  were  respectively  intrusted,  one  to  Barentz, 
and  the  other  to  John  Comeliz  Ryp,  with  seemingly 
an  equal  division  of  power.  Suspecting  apparently 
a  prevalence  of  home-sickness,  they  admitted  on 
board  none  Wt  nnmarried  persons,  who,  it  was 
hoped,  would  be  animated  wiih  a  bolder  spirit  of  en- 
teiprise,  and  less  inclined  to  long  for  return. 

The  vessels  set  sail,  still  rather  too  late,  on  the 
loth  of  May,  1596.  Their  object  setms  to  have  been 
to  avoid  the  coast  of  Russia  and  the  StiaitSt  to  shua 


■riiM 


Tir««i 


s. 

itimate  than  Bm* 
86  images  are  de« 
Diewhat  rounded 
t  aligfat  projection 
18,  and  one  larger 

ed,  in  answer  to 
)int  which  might 
there  extended  a 
They  made  re- 
but, after  emerg- 
re  always  driven 
le.  They  perse* 
en  these  masses 
i  that  they  were 
he  western  open- 
Hc^and,  without 
B  brilliant  objects 
undertaken, 
lent  was  felt  in 
expedition,  from 
been  cherished, 
ying  funds  for  a 
id  a  reward  to  any 
I  the  object  might 
3  town-council  of 
rmined  to  fit  out 
le,  and  equipped 
red  two  vessels, 
one  to  Barentz, 
,  with  seemingly 
icting  apparently 
hey  admitted  on 
IS,  who,  it  was 
>lder  spirit  of  en- 
r  return, 
too  late,  on  the 
tms  to  have  been 
B  Strait«i  to  ahnn 


NOKTH-BABT  VOTAflU. 


IM 


«ven  Nova  Zembia,  and  to  pish  on  direct  through  the 
wide  expanse  of  the  Nortnem  Oeean.  Tliey  even 
stood  inadvertently  somewhat  to  the  west,  and  on 
the  93d  came  in  view  of  the  Shetland  Idands. 
Barentz  urged  that  they  shoidd  turn  due  east,  in 
order  to  comjMnsate  this  deviation;  bat  (Torneliz  in- 
sisted that  this  would  carry  them  at  once  into  the 
Strait  of  Wa^gati,  the  scene  of  so  may  abortive  ef- 
forts, and  insisted  upon  steering  towaras  the  north- 
north-east.  After  passing  the  Shetlands,  they  saw 
the  moat  brilliant  celestiu  phenomena  they  had  ever 
witnessed.  The  sun  was  attended  by  two  parhelia 
or  mock  suns,  while  a  bright  rainbow  traverwd  all 
the  three  suns,  and  two  other  bows  crossed  the  hea- 
vens in  diflRnent  quarters.  On  the  fith  June  some 
sailcnrs  called  out,  that  a  multitude  of  white  swans 
were  swimming  in  the  water;  but  the  more  expe- 
rienced gave  warning  that  these  swans  would  be  found 
to  be  made  of  ice,  and  accordingly  they  Were  soon 
sailing  in  the  midst  of  these  moving  masses.  For 
two  days  they  proceeded  between  them  as  between 
two  lands ;  while  the  oohmr  of  the  sea,  which  was 
green  as  grass,  gave  them  the  idea  of  being  near  the 
countiT  called  Oreenland ;  but  Scoresby  mis  shoMm, 
as  is  elsewhere  Observed,  that  this  oolour  is  produced 
by  the  contents  of  the  sea  itsdf.  On  tbs  9tii  the  ad- 
venturers discovered  a  long  island  rising  abmptly 
into  steep  and  lofty  clift,  tius  highest  of  yrbidi  has 
borne  the  appropriate  name  of  Afount  Misery.  Pen- 
nant, who  errOMoiuly  «q>poaes  Benbet,  in  160S,  to 
have  been  the  first  dinoverer,  obeerves,— ^  The  hor- 
ror of  this  isle  to  the  flrat  diecovenrs  must  haye  been 
onspeakaUe:  the  proMeet  dreary;  black  when  not 
hid  with  snow,  and  broken  into  a  thousand  precipicee 
No  sounds  but  of  the  dashing  of  die  waves,  the 
crasMnp  collision  of  floatmg  ice,  the  disctwdant  notes 
of  myriads  of  sea4bvrt,  tlie  yelpini?  of  Arctic  foxes, 
the  snorting  of  tha  wtdruses.  Or  i '  e  roarins  of  the 
Polar  beats."    The  hills  wen  so  cxcMsivuy  steeps 


i    i 


nm^i 


ira 


HOaTR'XAST  YOTAOK*. 


T 


that  though  a  party  contriTed  to  clamber  up,  they 
durat  not  look  down,  and  the  descent  proTed  most 
doubtful  and  peiiknia.  At  length,  applying  their 
backs  to  the  face  of  the  steep,  they  slid  down  with 
safety,  which  Barentz,  who  looked  up,  could  never 
hare  thought  possible.  From  a  bear,  which  the 
Dutch  irttacked,  and  vainly  attempted  to  secure  by  a 
noose,  thev  gave  to  it  the  name  of  Bear  island,  which 
the  English  afterward  attempted  to  supplant  by  that 
of  Alderman  Cherie.  Proceeding  onward,  still  by 
too  northeriy  a  course,  they  reached  the  latitude  of 
80°,  and  discovered  a  coast  which  soon  proved  to  be- 
long to  a  country  of  great  extent.  This  was  Spitz- 
bergen,  or  East  Greenland,  which,  from  the  latitude, 
thev  probably  anproached  near  its  northern  point  of 
Hakluyt's  Headland.  The  name  of  Greenland,  which 
has  in  some  degree  adhered  to  this  island,. was  given 
under  the  erroneous  impression  of  its  belonging  to 
that  great  extent  of  coast,  so  called  by  the  Icelanders, 
in  distinction  from  which  it  has  been  called  East 
Greenland. 

The  Dutch,  finding  their  progress  eastward  stopped 
by  this  line  of  coast,  now  retraced  their  route  sJung 
its  deep  bays,  still  steerine  southward  till  they  found 
themselves  again  at  Bear  island.  Here  Comeliz  and 
Barentz  differed  once  more ;  the  former  still  adhering 
to  his.  original  views,  and  recommending  that  they 
should  again  pudi  northward,  and  endeavour  to 
find  their  way  along  the  eastern  coast  of  the  newly- 
discovered  land ;  but  Barentz  insisted  more  ration- 
ally, that  they  ought  to  steer  east-south-east,  and  en- 
deavour to  round  the northernpoint  of  Nova  Zembla. 
Being  unable  to  agree,  and  Barentz  being  resolved 
for  this  time  not  to  jneld,  they  determined  to  separate, 
and  to  make  trial  each  of  his  respective  course.  Ba- 
rentz, whom  we  follow,  proceeded  according  to  his 
plan,  till  at  midday,  on  the  17th  July,  he  found  him 
sdf  off  the  coast  of  Nova  Zembla;  he  had  gone  too 
fiur  south*  and  was  obliged  to  turn  again  northwavd. 


claihber  up,  they 
sent  proTed  most 
h,  a^lving  their 
V  elid  down  with 
I  up,  could  never 

bear,  which  the 
ted  to  secure  by  a 
3ear  island,  which 

supplant  by  that 
J  onward,  still  by 
d  the  latitude  of 
loon  proved  to  be- 

This  was  Spitz- 
rrom  the  latitude, 
(lorthem  point  of 
Oreenlanid,  which 
island,. was  given 

its  belonging  to 
by  the  Icelanders, 
been  called  East 

eastward  stopped 
their  route  sJonff 
ird  till  they  found 
iereComelizand 
ner  still  adhering 
ending  that  they 
d  endeavour  to 
ist  of  the  newly- 
ted  more  ration* 
>uth-east,anden- 
of  Nova  Zembla. 
z  being  resolved 
lined  to  separate, 
tive  course.  Ba- 
Bceording  to  his 
r,  he  found  him 
he  had  gone  too 
igain  wmhwaid. 


NORTH-tAIT  TOVAOSa.  fff 

He  pushed  on  as  vigorously  as  possiUe,  but  it  was  not 
till  the  6th  August  that  he  doubled  Cape  Nassau ;  but 
here  finding  the  ice  drifUag  idong  in  large  masses, 
and  being  involved  in  deep  fogs,  he  Judged  it  expedient 
to  moor  liis  vessel  to  a  largelceborg.    As  the  master 
was  walking  on  deck,  he  saw  a  large  bear  endeavour* 
ing  to  scale  the  sides  of  the  ship.    He  immediately 
called  out,  "All  hands  up!"  and  the  craw, having 
mustered,  raised  loud  cries,  which  induced  the  mon- 
ster to  retreat ;  but  he  soon  returned  to  the  charge. 
They  had  now  a  sail  raised  along  the  dedK,  and  four 
guns  loaded,  which  wen  fired  with  such  effect,  that  the 
bear  fled,  and  sought  shelter  amid  huge  masses  of  ice. 
On  the  lOth  of  August  the  ice  began  to  separate, 
and  the  seamen  remarked  that  the  bu'g  to  which  tiiev 
were  moored  was  fixed  to  the  bottom,  and  thnt  all 
the  others  struck  against  it.    Afraid  that  these  loose 
pieces  would  collect  and  enclose  them,  they  qiUtted 
their  moorings  and  saUed  on.    The  ice  was  airaady 
forming  on  the  surface,  and  the  ship  in  sailing  thioupi 
made  it  crack  on  all  sides.    T^e  Dutch  worked  on 
their  way,  mooring  themselves  to  successive  frag- 
ments, one  of  which  rose  like  a  steeple,  being  twenty 
fathoms  above  and  twelve  benea^  tne  water.    They 
saw  around  them  more  than  four  hundred  large  ice- 
bei^  the  fear  of  which  made  them  keep  close  to  the 
shore,  not  aware  of  that  being  the  quarter  where 
these  dangerous  bodies  wera  formed,  and  along 
which  they  chiefly  ranged.    However,  they  steered 
on,  and  having  passed  what  they  called  Little  Icy 
Cape,  came  to  Orange  Island,  which  forms  the 
northern  extremity  of  Nova  ZemUa.    Here  ten  men 
swam  on  shore,  and,  having  mounted  several  pUes 
of  ice  which  rose,  as  it  were,  into  a  little  mountahi, 
they  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  the  coast  tending 
southw&rd,  and  a  wide  open  sea  to  the  south-east. 
They  hastened  back  to  Barentz  with  these  JoyM 
tidings,  and  Uie  success  of  the  vosrage  was  considered 
almost  secure. 


m"migmm 


118 


nomtU'MJun  totaoib. 


Bat  dwse  hopes  wen  delutiTe.  After  doaUing 
what  WW  called  C^w  Desire  (now  Zelania),  the  ice- 
bergs mustered  in  sueh  force,  that  the  crews  ^va 
np  all  i  iea  of  doing  more  than  reach  the  strait  of 
Waygata  on  their  return  home.  They  were  driven, 
however,  so  rapidly  before  the  floating  masses,  that 
thite  men  who  had  mounted  one  of  them  to  recon* 
noitre,  would  have  bean  left  behind,  but  for  extraor- 
dinary exertions  of  a^ty.  They  were  now  drawn 
direct  into,  what  they  called  Icy  Port,  and  the  vessel 
was  thrown  into  a  position  almost  perpendicular, 
with  one  end  nearly  touching  the  bottom.  Front 
this  critical  attitude  they  were  relieved  next  day ; 
but  flresh  masses  of  ice  continuaUy  poured  in,  aug- 
menting the  terriUe  ramparts  with  which  thev  were 
enclosed.  One  side  of  the  vessr  I  was  raised  oy  suc- 
cessive pieces  Jammed  beneath  i^  but  the  other  was 
similarly  elevated ;  so  that  ths  ahip  was  lifted  to  the 
top  of  me  ice  as  1^  machinery.  All  this  time  the 
cracking,  both  around  them,  on  every  side,  and 
withinUie  ship  itself  was  so  dreadful,  that  they  were 
in  continual  feair  of  ita  parting  into  fragmenU ;  but 
this  interior  cracking,  arinng  merely  from  the  freel- 
ing  of  the  Juices  of  Ute  timber,  was  much  less  dan- 
gerous than  they  imagined. 

The  Dutch  now  felt  that  they  must  bid  adieu  for 
thia  year  to  al]  h^pes  cf  esci^M  fh>m  their  icy  prison. 
As  tne  vessel  v  s  cracking  continually,  and  opening 
in  different  qui>rtei«,  they  made  no  doubt  of  its  going 
to  pief^ea,  and  could  hope  to  survive  the  winter  only 
by  constructing  a  hut,  which  might  shelter  them 
from  the  aranoaching  rigour  of  the  season.  Parties 
sent  into  the  country  reported  having  seen  foot- 
steps of  reindeer,  also  a  river  of  fresh  water,  and, 
what  was  more  important  still,  a  great  quantiw  of 
fine  trees,  with  the  roots  still  attached  to  them, 
strewed  upon  the  shore.  Not  one  of  these  trees 
QDuld  have  grown  on  the  frozen  soil  of  Nova  Zambia ; 
thev  were  all  brought  down  the  rivers  of  Muscovy 


cs. 

,  After  doabiing 
Zelania),  the  ice- 
t  the  crews  ^ve 
Boh  the  atrait  of 
[liey  were  driven, 
iting  maases,  that 
if  them  to  recon- 
d,  but  for  extraor- 
were  now  drawn 
>rt,  and  the  vessel 
Mt  perpendicular, 
e  bottom.  From 
ilieved  next  day; 
Y  poured  in,  aug- 
which  thev  were 
iras  raised  oy  sue- 
but  the  other  was 
[)  was  lifted  to  the 
All  this  time  the 
every  side,  and 
ful,  that  they  were 
o  fragments ;  but 
ly  from  the  freet- 
B  much  less  dan> 

lust  bid  adieu  for 
m  their  icy  prison, 
ually,  and  opening 
doubt  of  its  going 
re  the  winter  only 
ight  shelter  them 
i  season.  Parties 
laving  seen  foot- 
fresh  water,  and, 
great  quantiw  of 
BttHched  to  them, 
DO  of  these  trees 
lofNovaZembla; 
iven  of  Muscovy 


MOftTH-BABT  VOTAOIS. 


If 


■nd  Ttntary,  and  wafted  over  the  ocean  by  wtaidl 
and  currents.  This  circumstance  gave  a  peculiarly 
cheerftd  colour  to  the  hopes  of  the  mariners.  They 
trusted  that  Providence,  which  had  in  this  surprising 
manner  furnished  materials  to  build  a  house,  and 
fuel  to  warm  it,  v/ould  supply  also  whatever  was 
necessary  for  their  passing  through  the  approaching 
winter,  and  for  returning  at  length  to  their  native 
country.  A  sledge  was  instantly  constructed ;  three 
men  cut  the  wood,  while  ten  drew  it  to  the  spot 
marked  out  for  the  hut.  They  sought  to  raise  a 
rampart  of  earth  for  shelter  and  security,  and  em- 
ployed a  long  line  of  fire  in  the  hope  of  softening  the 
ground,  but  m  vain.— The  carpenter  having  died,  it 
was  found  impossible  to  dig  a  enure  for  him,  and 
they  lodged  his  body  in  a  cleft  of  the  rock. 

The  buildinff  of  the  hut  was  cturried  on  with  ar- 
dour, as  afformng  the  only  hope  of  life ;  yet  the  cold 
endured  in  this  operation  was  intense,  and  almost 
insupportatde.  When  a  nail  was  put  into  the  mouth, 
it  was  ilrozen  to  the  lip,  and  brought  the  skin  awav, 
drawing  blood.  The  snow  sometimes  fell  so  thick, 
for  days  successively,  that  the  seamen  could  not  stir 
from  under  cover.  They  had  at  the  same  time  hard 
and  perpetual  combats  with  the  Polar  bear.  One 
day  the  master  saw  from  the  ship  three  of  these  Ani- 
ons anim^  running  towards  the  working  party,  and 
gave  them  warning  by  loud  cries.  They  immedi- 
ately ran  towwds  the  vessel ;  when  one  of  them,  in 
his  naste,  fell  into  a  cleft  in  the  ice,  and  was  given 
up  for  lost;  but  the  bears  overlooked  himyand  con- 
tinued their  pursuit  of  tiie  main  body.  The  sailors 
having  at  length  reached  the  ship,  made  the  circuit 
of  it,  and  mounted  from  behind;  but  their  pursuers 
entered  in  ftvnt,  and  advanced  furiously  to  the  attack. 
A  man,  sent  down  to  the  kitchen  to  ught  a  match, 
wa  I  in  too  great  haste  and  agitation  to  accomplish 
tha  \  simple  process,  and  the  muskets  were  thus  use* 
Tne  crew  could  now  parry  the  assault  oidy  by 


fhrowbic  at  th«  bem  whatert r  eaiM  fint  to  hand, 
by  wUoh  the  attention  of  the  animala  was  alwavs 
for  a  moneat  attracted,  tliouffh  they  returned  to  the 
charge  with  ft«ah  vigour.  A?  leagUi,  when  mattera 
aeemed  approaching  to  extremity,  a  halberd  waa 
darted  at  the  largea^  which  struck  him  on  the  mouth 
with  aueh  force  that  he  retreated,  and  the  others  fol* 
lowed. 

Notwithatanding  this  intense  rigour,  winter  had 
not  yet  thoroughly  set  in.  Several  days  of  south- 
west wind  dissolved  a  vast  quantity  of  ice,  and  they 
saw  a  wide  open  sea  without,  while  the  vessel  was 
enclosed  witnin,  as  it  were,  by  a  solid  wall.  By 
October  they  completed  their  hut,  and  prepared  to 
convey  thiUier  their  provisions  and  stores.  Borne 
painful  disooveriea  were  now  made.  Several  tuns 
of  fine  Dantsie  beer,  of  an  agreeable  and  medicinal 
quality,  and  firom  which  thev  had  anticipated  much 
comfort,  had  firosen  so  hard  as  to  break  the  casks, 
burstingeven  thA  iron  hoops  by  which  they  were 
held.  The  contents,  indeed,  existed  in  the  form  of 
ice,  but  this,  when  thawed,  had  merely  the  taate  of 
bad  water;  and  though  in  the  middle  they  found  a 
liquor  concentrating  m  itself  the  whole  strength  of 
the  bear,  it  had  not  the  true  flavour  and  character  of 
that  beverage.  They  made  trial  of  mixing  the  two 
together,  bat  without  being  aUe  to  restore  its  proper 
reUsh  and  virtue. 

The  sun,  whiqh  bad  hitherto  been  their  only  plea- 
sure and  CQDaolation,  began  now  to  pay  only  short 
Tiaits,andto^vesi0>sof  hia  aniuroacliing  departure. 
He  rose  in  the  aoutEHMUth-east  and  set  in  the  south, 
south-west,  iwhUe  the  moon  was  scarcely  dimmed  by 
his  preseaee.  On  the  let  November  his  fuU  orb  was 
atill  seen  for  aaliort  interval ;  on  the  8d  it  rested  on 
the  horixon,  bom  which  it  did  not  detach  itself;  on 
the  4th  the  sky  was  oalm  and  dear,  but  no  sun  rose 
or  set. 

The  dreary  winter  night  of  three  montha,  w|uch 


■ta 


M. 

iM  lint  to  hudi 

naia  was  alwava 
>y  returned  to  the 
;u),  when  mattera 
a  halberd  wan 
him  on  the  mouth 
ud  the  otbera  fol- 

li;our,  winter  had 
Q  dayi  of  nouth- 

S'  of  ice,  and  they 
e  the  veaael  waa 
BoUd  wall.  By 
and  prepared  to 
d  atorea.  8onie 
ie.  Several  tuna 
lie  and  medicinal 
uiticipated  much 
hreax  the  caaka, 
which  thev  were 
id  in  the  form  of 
>rbly  the  taste  of 
Ue  they  found  a 
rbole  atrength  of 
and  character  of 
r  mixinfr  the  two 
restore  its  proper 

1  their  only  plea< 
0  pay  only  short 
acoingd^arture. 
laetintheaouth. 
trcely  dimmed  by 
irhia  full  orb  was 
le  8d  it  retted  on 
detach  itself  (  on 
,  butnosun  rose 

B  noBtlub  wliieh 


NORTR-IAST  TOTAOIS. 


131 


had  ntm  set  in,  was  not,  however,  without  some 
alleTiations.  The  moon,  now  at  the  full,  wheeled 
her  pale  but  perpetual  eircle  round  the  horiaon. 
With  the  sun  diaappearad  also  the  bear,  and  in  his 
room  came  the  Arctic  fox,  a  beautiful  little  creature, 
whose  flesh  resembled  kid,  and  fumiahed  a  variety 
to  their  meals.  They  found  great  ditRcnlty  in  the 
measurement  of  time,  and  on  the  6th  rose  only  late 
a  the  day,  when  a  controversy  ensued  whetner  it 
was  day  or  nirht.  The  cold  had  atopped  the  move- 
menta  of  all  the  clooka,  but  they  afterward  formed 
a  sand>riass  of  twelve  hours,  by  which  they  contrived 
tolerably  to  estimate  their  time. 

On  the  3d  December,  as  the  sailora  lay  in  bed,  they 
heard  from  without  a  noise  so  tremendous  as  if  all 
the  mountains  of  ice  by  which  they  were  surrounded 
had  fallen  in  pieces  over  each  other.  In  fact,  the 
first  light  which  they  afterward  obtained  showed  a 
considerable  extent  of  open  sea :  yet  this  disruption 
must  have  been  produced  by  a  merely  internal  move- 
ment of  the  ice,  not  by  any  tendency  towards  thaw. 

As  the  season  advanced,  the  cold  became  always 
more  and  more  intense.  Early  in  December  a  dense 
fall  of  snow  stopped  up  all  the  passages  by  which  the 
smoke  could  escape :  so  that  a  flra,  at  dl  fitted  for 
the  dreadful  inclemency  of  the  aeason,  led  to  the 
danger  of  suflbcation.  The  men  were  tiiusoUiged 
to  keep  the  room  at  a  miserably  low  temperature,  for 
which  they  used  the  imperfect  remedy  of  heated 
stones,  paued  firom  one  bed  to  another.  One  great 
trouble  was  how  to  wash  their  clothes ;  whenever 
they  took  these  up  ftom  the  boiling  water,  and  began 
to  wrinff  them,  the  linen  froxe  in  their  hands ;  and 
when  they  hung  them  up  to  dry,  the  side  farthest 
from  the  fin  was  bard  firoien.  The  cold  becoming 
always  mora  rigorous,  ice  two  inches  thick  was 
formed  on  the  walls.  At  length  their  sufferings 
came  to  such  an  extremity,  that,  castingat  each  other 
languishing  and  piteous  looks,  they  anttoipated  that 


112 


RORTH-EAtT  TOTAOSf . 


this  must  end  in  ui«  extinction  of  life.  They  now 
resolved  that,  cost  what  it  might,  they  «hoiud  foi 
once  be  thorouj^y  wanned.  They  repaired,  there- 
fore, to  the  ship,  whence  they  brought  an  ample  sup- 
ply of  coal ;  and  having  kindled  an  immense  fire,  and 
carefully  stopped  up  the  windows  and  every  aperture 
by  which  the  cold  could  penetrate,  they  did  bring 
themselves  into  a  most  comfortable  tempera  ure.  In 
this  delicious  state,  to  which  they  had  been  so  long 
strangers,  they  went  to  rest,  and  talked  gayly  for 
some  time  before  falling  asleep.  Suddenly,  in  the 
middle  of  the  night,  several  awakened  in  a  state  of 
the  most  painful  vertigo ;  their  cries  roused  the  rest^. 
and  all  found  themselves,  more  or  less,  in  the  same 
alarming  predicament.  On  attempting  to  rise,  they 
beoune  dizzy,  and  could  neither  stand  nor  walk.  At 
length  two  or  three  contrived  to  stagger  towards  the 
door ;  but  the  first  who  opened  it  fell  down  insensible 
among  the  snow.  De  veer,  who  stood  behind,  re- 
vived him  by  pouring  vinegar  on  his  face ;  and  the 
wintry  air,  which  had  been  their  greatest  dread,  now 
restored  Ufe  to  the  whole  party. 

These  unhappy  mariners  bemg  thus  compelled  to 
afford  A  certain  access  to  the  wintry  blast,  its  effects 
became  always  more  and  more  insupportable.  It 
seemed  as  if  the  fire  had  lost  all  power  of  conveying 
heat :  their  clothes  were  white  with  snow  and  hoar- 
frost ;  their  stockings  were  burned  before  the  feet 
felt  any  waimUi,  and  this  burning  was  announced  by 
smell  rather  than  by  feeling.  Yet,  in  the  venr  midst 
of  these  sufferings,  remembering  that  the  5th  January 
was  the  feast  of  the  Kings,  they  besought  the  master 
that  they  might  be  allowed  to  celebrate  that  great 
Dutch  festival.  They  had  saved  a  little  wine  and 
two  poundn  of  flour,  with  which  they  fried  pancakes 
in  od;  the  tickets  were  drawn,  the  gunner  was 
crowned  king  of  Nova  Zembla,  and  the  evening 
passed  as  mCTrily  as  if  thev  had  been  at  home  round 
their  native  fireside.    Nothing  can  more  strikingly 


S8. 

f  life.  They  now 
.  they  ishoiud  foi 
BT  repaired,  there* 
gnt  an  ample  Bup- 
inunenK  fire,  and 
uid  every  aperture 
ie,  they  did  bring 
tempera  ure.  In 
had  been  so  long 
I  talked  eayly  for 

Suddenly,  in  the 
ened  in  a  state  of 
31  roused  the  restt 
less,  in  the  same 
pting  to  rise,  they 
uid  nor  walk.  At 
tagger  towards  the 
sll  down  insensible 

stood  behind,  re- 
his  face;  and  the 
reatest  dread,  now 

thus  compelled  to 
ry  blast,  its  effects 
insupportable.  It 
)wer  of  conTe]ring 
ith  snow  and  hoar> 
id  before  the  feet 
was  announced  by 
t,  in  the  veiy  midst 
lat  the  5th  January 
esoughtthe  master 
ilebiate  that  great 

a  little  wine  and 
ley  fried  pancakes 
,  the  gunner  was 

and  the  evening 
een  at  home  round 
ui  more  strikingly 


nortr-iIast  voTAoas. 


ISt 


fllustrate  the  salutary  effecto  produced  even  in  these 
desperate  circumstances  by  mental  occupation  and 
amusement,--«lfects  of  which  Captain  Parry  after- 
ward made  so  happy  a  use. 

About  the  middle  of  January  the  crews  began  to 
experience  some  abatement  of  that  deep  darkness 
in  which  they  had  so  long  been  involved.  On  throw- 
mg  a  bowl,  they  could  see  it  run  along  the  ground, 
vJuch  was  before  impossible.  Soon  after,  about 
™>«day.  a  faint  flush  was  seen  to  tinge  the  horizon ; 
and  this  first  dawn  of  the  annual  morning  revived  in 
their  hearts  the  hope  which  was  almost  extinguished. 
On  the  24th  De  Veer  and  two  others  ran  in  to  say 
that  they  had  seen  a  portion  of  the  sun's  disk.  Ba. 
rent!  demonstrated,  fronj  the  structure  of  the  earth, 
that  this  could  not  take  place  for  fifteen  days.  Many, 
however,  trusted  more  to  the  eyes  of  their  compa- 
nions; and  bets  were  taken,  which  could  not  be  de- 
cided in  the  two  following  days  in  consequence  of  a 
heavy  fog  in  which  the  air  was  involved.  The  a7th, 
however,  being  clear,  they  went  out  in  a  body,  and 
saw,  ascendinfr  above  the  horizon,  the  Aill  ort)  of 
that  great  lummary.  Joy  took  possession  of  their 
hearts,  and  Barentz  in  vam  continued  to  prove,  that 
this  appearance  was  contrary  to  every  principle  of 
science.  He  was  not  aware  of  the  extensive  power 
of  refraction  in  this  northern  air,  which  in  C^t.  Par- 
nr's  expedition,  produced  a  similar  abridgment  m  the 
duration  of  the  Polar  winter. 

Afliurs  now  assumed  a  more  cheerful  aspect  lib 
stead  of  constantly  moping  in  \he  hut,  the  men  weiH 
out  daJy,  employed  themselves  in  walking,  running, 
and  athletic  games,  which  warmed  their  bodies  and 
preserved  their  health.  With  the  sun,  however,  ap- 
peared  their  old  enemy,  the  bear.  One  attacked  them 
amid  so  thick  a  mist  that  they  could  not  see  to  point 
their  pieces,  and  sought  shelter  in  the  hut.  The  bear 
came  to  the  door,  and  made  the  most  desperate  at- 
tempts to  burst  it  open ;  but  the  master  kept  his 


SIlWlBPWmi^" 


IM 


KOKTH-BAST  TOTASKS. 


back  firmly  aet  against  it,  and  the  animal  at  last  re- 
treated. Soon  uter  he  mounted  the  roof,  where, 
having  in  vain  attempted  to  enter  by  the  chimney,  he 
made  furious  attempts  to  puU  it  mmn,  having  torn 
the  sail  in  which  it  was  wrapped ;  all  the  while  his 
frightful  and  hungry  roarings  spread  dismay  through 
the  mansion  beneath ;  at  lengtn  he  retreated.  An- 
other came  so  close  to  the  man  on  guard,  who  was 
looking  another  way,  that,  on  receiving  the  sistm 
from  those  within  and  looking  about,  he  saw  himself 
almost  in  the  jaws  of  the  bear;  however,  he  had  the 
presence  of  mind  instantly  to  fire,  when  the  animal 
was  struck  in  the  head,  retreated,  and  was  afterward 
pursued  and  despatch^. 

The  first  reappearance  of  the  sun  had  inspired 
hopes  that  the  weather  would  become  continually 
more  mild  and  agreeaUe.  It  was,  therefore,  a  severe 
disai^intment,  when,  in  February,  a  heavy  north- 
east gale  brought  a  cold  more  intense  than  ever,  and 
buried  the  hut  again  under  snow.  This  was  the  more 
deeply  felt,  as  the  men's  strength  and  supply  of  ge- 
nerous food  to  recruit  it  were  alike  on  me  decline. 
They  no  longer  attempted  daUy  to  dear  a  road,  but 
those  who  were  able  went  out  and  in  by  the  chim- 
ney. A  dreadful  calamity  then  overtook  them  m  the 
failure  of  their  stock  of  wood  for  fuel.  They  began 
to  gather  all  the  fragments  which  had  been  thrown 
away,  or  lay  scattered  about  the  hut ;  but  these  beings 
soon  exhausted,  it  behooved  them  to  carry  out  thmr 
sledge  in  March  of  more.  To  dig  the  trees,  how- 
ever, out  of  the  deep  snow,  and  drag  them  to  the  hut, 
was  a  task  which,  in  their  {xresent  exhausted  state, 
would  have  appeared  impossible,  had  they  not  felt 
that  Uiey  must  do  it  or  parish. 

In  the  course  of  March  and  Ainil,'the  weather  be- 
came milder,  and  the  attention  of  all  the  crew  was 
drawn  to  plans  and  prospects  of  return.  Southward 
on  the  side  of  Tartary,  the  icy  masses  were  still 
floeting,  but  to  the  norta-east  there  was  an  immense 


•'sfr^tim 


'W'm 


BS. 


I 


animal  at  last  re- 
the  roof,  where, 
tliechumiey,he 
[own,  having  torn 
all  the  while  his 
A  dismay  through 
e  tetreated.  An- 
il guard,  who  was 
eiving  the  alum 
It,  he  saw  himself 
wever,  he  had  the 
when  the  animal 
nd  was  afterward 

son  had  inspired 
come  continually 
herefore,  a  severe 
y,  a  heavy  north- 
ise  than  ever,  and 
rhis  was  the  more 
md  supply  of  ge- 
le  on  the  decline. 
)  clear  a  road,  hut 
1  in  by  the  chim- 
nrtodi  them  m  the 
iiel.  They  began 
had  been  thrown 
t;  but  these  being 
to  carry  out  their 
ig  the  trees,  how- 
g  them  to  the  hut, 
ezhansted  state, 
had  they  not  felt 

1,'the  wealher  be- 
all  the  crew  was 
um.  Southward 
nasses  were  still 
was  an  immense 


NOETH-IAST  TOTAOM. 


IM 


qien  sea.  Yet  the  barriers  which  enclosed  the  ship 
not  onl^  continued,  but,  to  their  inexpressible  grie^ 
rapidlT  mcreased,  probably  from  the  fragmente  which 
floated  in  tmon  the  breaking  up  of  the  great  exterior 
mass.  In  the  middle  of  Marcn  these  ramparts  wei« 
only  75  paces  broad,  in  the  beginning  of  May  they 
were  500.  These  piles  of  ice  resemUed  the  houses 
of  a  mreat  city,  interspersed  with  apparent  towers, 
steeples,  and  chimneys.  The  sailors,  viewing  with 
despair  this  position  of  the  vessel,  earnestly  en- 
treated permission  to  fit  out  the  two  boats,  and  in 
them  to  undertake  the  voya^  homeward.  The  mas- 
ter at  length  agreed,  provided  there  was  no  better 
prospect  by  the  end  of  May.  From  the  30th  to  the 
36th  a  north  wind  came  on,  and  blew  upon  them  a  still 
greater  quantity  of  ice ;  so  that  they  no  longer  hesitated 
to  begin  their  work,  and  to  bring  from  the  ship  sails 
and  cordage.  The  mere  digging  of  the  boats  from 
undjBr  the  snow  was  a  most  labraious  task,  and  the 

aiipment  of  them  would  have  been  next  to  impos- 
le,  but  for  the  enthusiasm  with  which  it  was  un- 
dertaken. By  the  Uth  June  they  had  the  vessels 
fitted  out,  their  clothes  packed,  and  tlte  provisions 
embarked.  Then,  however,  they  had  to  cut  a  way 
through  the  steeps  and  walls  of  ice  which  intervened 
between  them  and  the  open  sea.  Amid  the  extreme 
fatigue  of  duginff,  breaking,  and  cutting,  they  were 
kept  in  play  by  a  nuge  bear  which  had  come  over  the 
frozen  sea  from  Tartary. 

At  length,  the  crew  ,havingembariced  all  their  clothes 
and  provisions,  set  sail  on  the  14th  with  a  westerly 
breeze.  In  the  three  following  days  they  passed  the 
Cape  of  Isles,  Cape  Desire,  and  came  to  Orange  Isle, 
always  working  their  way  throudi  much  encumber- 
ing ice.  As  they  were  off  Icy  Cape,  Barentz,  long 
strugg^ng  with  severe  illness,  and  now  feeling  his  end 
approach,  desired  himself  to  be  lifted  up  that  he  mi|riit 
take  a  last  view  of  that  iktal  and  terrible  boundary, 
on  which  be  gased  for  a  considerable-  time. 
L3 


tM 


ir<mTH-4IA8T  TOTASIS. 


On  die  following  day  the  Teasels  were  again  in* 
Tolved  anad  masses  of  drift-ice,  and  were  so  forcibly 
strudc,  as  well  as  squeezed  between  opposite  fields, 
tiiat  the  men  had  bid  a  find  adieu  to  each  other.  See« 
ing,  however,  a  body  of  fixed  ice  at  a  little  distance,  De 
Veertookarope  and  leaped  from  fragment  to  fiai^Tient, 
till  he  arrived  on  the  firm  surface.  A  communica- 
tion thus  formed,  diey  landed  first  the  sick,  then  the 
stores  and  prorisions,  and,  finally,  they  drew  the 
boats  themselves  upon  the  ice.  During  this  deten- 
tion, Barents,  being  informed  of  the  severe  illness  of 
one  Adrianson,  mid,  that  he  himself  was  not  far  from 
his  end.  As  he  continued,  however,  conversing  and 
looking  on  a  chart  of  the  voyage  made  by  De  Veer, 
it  was  thought  that  his  disease  could  not  be  so  seri- 
ous, till  he  pushed  aside  the  chart,  asked  for  a  draught 
of  water,  and  immediately  expired.  This  event  ex- 
tremely afflicted  the  crews,  both  from  their  personal 
attachment  to  Barents,  and  the  loss  of  his  skill  in 
piloting  the  vessels. 

The  sailots,  with  some  drift-wood,  repaued  the 
boats ;  the  ice,  however,  was  still  close  around,  and 
they  were  struck  wiUi  the  fear  that  they  would  never 
escape  from  this  bank,  but  must  perish  upon  it.  On 
the  9Sdt  however,  tiiere  appeared  open  sea  at  a  little 
distance,  and  bavins  draped  the  boats  over  succes- 
sive pieces  of  ice,  they  were  again  afloat.  In  the 
three  following  days  ther  reached  Cape  Nassau,  the 
ice  frequently  stopping  them,  but  opening  again  like 
the  gates  of^a  slmce,  and  allowing  a  passage.  On 
the  96th  they  were  obliged  once  more  to  disembark 
and  i^tch  tteir  tents  <m  the  ih)zen  surface.  On  the 
opposite  coast  they  saw  immense  herds  of  sea-cows 
(Wms),  and  the  air  daricened  with  numberless 
birds.  While  they  were  fast  asleep  in  the  tent,  the 
sentinel  edled  out,  **  Three  bean  I  tmree  bean  r  The 
wlrale  crew  were  instantly  out ;  tlieir  muskets  were 
chttrged  only  with  small  shot  for  birds;  however 
"  tfaiMe  sweotmeats,"  though  they  could  not  inflict  any 


It  were  ■sain  in- 
1  were  so  forciUy 
n  oppoaHe  fleldft 
«aeh  other.  See- 
little  distance,  De 
imenttofnti^ent, 

A  cominunica- 
the  sick,  then  the 
jT,  they  drew  the 
Ihnring  this  deten- 
)  serere  illness  of 
f  was  not  far  from 
ir,  conTersing  and 
nade  by  De  veer, 
ddnotoe  soseri- 
isked  for  a  draught 

This  event  ex- 
om  their  personal 
OSS  of  his  skill  in 

ood,  repaired  the 
close  around,  and 
t  they  would  never 
irish  upon  it.  On 
>pen  sea  at  a  little 
mats  over  succes- 
in  afloat.  In  tfie 
Cape  Nassau,  the 
>pening  again  like 
ig  a  passage.  On 
nore  to  disembark 
I  surface.  On  the 
herds  of  sea-cows 
with  numberless 
ep  in  the  tent,  the 
ihreebeanr  The 
leir  muskets  were 
r  Urds;  however 
onld  not  inflict  any 


ICOaTB-BAST  TOTAOBS. 


m 


Mrions  womid,  induced  the  monsters  to  turn,  when 
one  of  them  was  pursued  and  killed.  The  dead  bear 
was  canried  off  in  the  mouth  of  one  of  the  survivors 
to  the  mopt  rugged  parts  of  the  ice,  when  the  two 
devoured  a  large  portion  of  his  caroass. 

The  year  was  now  advanced ;  the  bright  light  of 
the  sun  and  the  occasional  south-westerly  breexes 
mssolved  the  ice,  and  gradually  opened  a  way  before 
them.  It  brought,  however,  dangen  of  a  new  class. 
The  distinction  between  fixed  and  floating  ice  had 
now  almost  ceased,  the  former  melting  continually 
away.  As  they  thought  themselves  lymg  secure  on 
a  large  field,  a  body  of  icebergs  came  in  from  the 
open  sea,  struck  and  dashed  it  to  pieces.  The  pack- 
ages were  separated  from  the  boats,  and  several 
dropped  into  the  water.  It  was  laborious  to  scram- 
ble over  the  detached  (ragments  to  a  place  of  safety, 
while  the  weighty  articles  sank  into  the  softened  ice, 
not  without  the  greatest  risk  of  faUing  to  the  bottom. 
For  twelve  hours  the  sailors  floundered  through  this 
loose  and  broken  surface  before  they  could  establish 
themselves  on  the  field  which  was  attached  to  the 
land. 

The  Sd  of  Mt  was  the  finest  day  yet  seen  in  Nova 
Zembla;  and  the  weather,  continuing  favourable, 
produced  on  the  7th  an  open  sea,  to  which,  with 
great  labour,  the  men  succeeded  in  dragging  the 
boats.  From  this  time  their  progress,  thoiu^  often 
obstructed,  was  never  entirely  stopped.  In  several 
of  the  ntcl^  bajrs  they  cau^t  an>  immense  number 
of  birds,  these  poor  animals  n*t  having  yet  learned 
to  fear  man,  and  allowing  themselves  to  be  taken  by 
the  hand.  Near  Admiral^  Bay  they  saw  two  hun- 
dred sea-cows  lying  on  a  bank  of  ice,  and  attacked 
them;JI}ut  these  powerful  animals  advanced  to  the 
combat,  snorting  and  blowing  in  so  tremoBdooB  a 
manner,  that,  had  not  a  fresh  wind  sprung  up,  the 
nwrinen  mi|^  have  been  in  a  serious  {wemcament; 
and  they  repented  bitterly,  anid  so  many  inevitaUs 


138 


NORTH^SAST  TOVAOKf. 


vrUn,  to  have  brought  on  themselTes  one  so  very  nn« 
neoeasary. 

On  the  asth,  after  passinff  the  bay  of  St  Lawrence, 
when  they  anproachied  to  the  aontheni  extremity  of 
Nova  Zembta,  the  navigators  discovered,  with  sur- 
prise and  Joy,  two  Russian  vessels  at  anchor.  They 
approached,  and  were  received  with  the  usual  cour- 
tesy of  that  nation.  Several  of  the  Russians  recol- 
lected having  met  them  in  the  former  voyage,  and 
were  truly  astonished,  instead  of  the  large  and 
handsome  vessels  whose  eijuipment  they  had  so 
much  admired,  to  see  them  m  these  miserable  open 
boats,  wiA  meager  and  wasted  frames.  After  mutual 
presents,  the  parties  agreed  to  sail  together  to  Way- 
gatz,  but  were  separated  by' a  heavy  gale.  On  a 
smaU  isle  the  Dutch  found  s^bundance  of  eoiMeana,  or 
scurvy-grass,  by  the  use  df  which  the  sick  recovered 
in  a  manner  almost  miraculous.  On  the  3d  August 
they  steered  their  course  to  the  south-south-wiest, 
and,  though  somewhat  obstructed  by  ice,  came  on 
the  4th  in  view  of  the  coast  of  Russia.  Thev  had  a 
tedious  but  safe  coasting  voyage  to  Kola,  where,  to 
their  joyfid  surprise,  tl  ey  found  John  Comeliz,  who 
received  them  with  the  greatest  kindness,  and  af- 
forded them  a  comfortable  passage  to  Amsterdam. 
As  no  account  was  ever  given  of  this  commander's 
own  voyage,  it  may  be  presumed  that  it  did  not  lead 
to  any  important  discovery. 

The  question  as  to  a  north-eastern  passage  was  not 
yet  considered  as-  finally  determined.  The  London 
merchants  next  took  it  up,  and,  in  1608,  fitted  out 
Henry  Hudson,  who  had  already  distinguished  him- 
self by  a  voyage  to  Spitzbergen,  and  proved  one  of 
the  greatest  of  the  early  navigators.  The  design  of 
Hudson  appears  to  have  been,  not  to  entangle  himself 
in  the  straits  and  islands  on  the  Russian  coast,  but  to 
strike  direct  into  the  channel  between  Nova  Zembla 
and  Spitzbergen.  He  dropped  down  to  Blaekwall 
on  the  2Sd  April,  and  on  the  3d  June  saw  the  North 


H^  jg?rfi^ 


ta. 

68  one  80  very  on- 

7  of  St  Lawrence, 
hem  extremity  of 
sovered,  with  8ur« 
at  anchor.  They 
th  the  usual  cour- 
le  Russians  recol- 
>nner  voyage,  and 
of  the  large  and 
lent  they  had  so 
me  miserable  open 
les.  After  mutual 
together  to  Way- 
eavy  gale.  On  a 
ce  of  eochlearia,  or 
the  sick  recovered 
On  ibe  Sd  August 
sonth-south-wiest, 
1  by  ice,  came  on 
ssia.  Thev  had  a 
to  Kola,  where,  to 
^ohn  Comeliz,  who 
kindness,  and  af- 
ge  to  Amsterdam, 
this  commander's 
that  it  did  not  lead 

m  passage  was  not 
led.  The  JU)ndon 
in  1606,  fitted  out 
distinguished  him- 
and  proved  one  of 
rs.  The  design  of 
to  entangle  himself 
ussian  coast,  but  to 
reen  Nova  Zembla 
own  to  Blaekwall 
line  saw  the  North 


IfOBTR-KAST  TOTAOU. 


139 


Cape,  bearing  aonth-west  He  still  pushed  on  to  the 
north  and  eat t,  till  he  reached  the  latitude  of  75  de- 
gpees,  when  he  found  himself  entangled  among  iee. 
He  at  first  endeavoured  to  pudi  through,  but,  fail- 
mi  in  this  attempt,  turned  and  extricated  himself 
wfth  only  •♦  a  few  rubs."  On  the  12th  June  he  expe- 
nenced  a  ttiick  fog,  and  had  his  shrouds  fit>ien ;  but 
the  sky  then  cleared,  and  afforded  bright  sunshine 
for  the  whole  day  and  night.  On  the  16th,  Thomas 
Hilles  and  Robert  Rayner  solemnly  averred,  that, 
standmg  on  deck,  they  had  seen  a  meimaid.  This 
marine  maiden  is  described  as  having  a  female  back 
and  breast,  a  very  white  skin,  and  long  black  hau 
flowing  behind;  but'on  her  turning  round  they  de- 
scried a  taU  as  of  a  porpoise,  and  sneckled  like  a 
mackerel.  It  seems  uncertafai  which  of  the  ceta- 
ceous species  suggested  this  fancied  resemblance  to 
the  human  form. 

Hudson  continued  to  push  on  eastward,  varying, 
according  to  the  wind,  between  the  latitudes  of  74« 
and  750.  On  the  SSth,  however,  heavy  north  and 
north-easteriy  gales,  accompanied  with  fog  and 
snow,  obliged  him  to  steer  southeasterly;  and  this 
course,  on  the  aeth,  brought  him  to  the  coast  of  Nova 
Zembla,  in  lat  79<»  96'.  Here,  seemingly  with  prema. 
ture  resignation,  whenJune  was  not  yetclosed,he  con- 
cluded that  it  were  fruitless  to  attempt  to  hold  this 
year  a  more  northeriy  course ;  in  place  of  which  he 
resolved  to  tnr  the  old  and  so  often  vainly-attenmted 
route  of  the  Waygatx.  From  this  he  was  diverted  by 
the  view  of  a  lai^ge  sound,  which  appeared  to  aflbrd 
an  equally  inromising  opening.  On  its  shores  also 
were  numerous  herds  of  morses,  from  which  he  hoped 
to  defray  the  expense  of  the  voyage.  Nova  ZemUa, 
on  the  whole,  seen  under  this  Arctic  midsummer,  pre- 
sented to  him  somewhat  of  a  gay  aspect.  He  mys, 
it  is  "to  man'k  eye  a  pleasant  umd;  much  roayne 
land,  with  no  snow  on  it,  looking  in  some  places  graen, 
and  deer  feeding  'boreon."    "Hie  sound,  however,  u 


tie 


NORTR-KAIT  VOTAOM. 


miBht  hare  been  coqjectured  from  the  strong  eunrent 
which  came  down,  terminated  in  a  large  nrer,  and 
the  boats  soon  came  to  anchorage  in  one  fathom. 
The  mones  also,  though  seen  in  great  numbers,  could 
never  be  brougtit  to  close  quarters. ,  The  ice  now 
came  in  great  masses  from  the  south,  '*  very  fearful 
to  look  on ;"  and  though, "  by  the  mercy  of  God  and 
his  mighty  help,"  Hudson  escaped  the  danger,  yet  by 
the  6th  of  July  he  was  "  void  of  hope  of  a  north-east 
passage,"  and,  determining  to  put  his  employers  to 
no  farther  expense,  hastened  home  to  England. 

We  know  not  whether  the  Muscovy  merchants 
had  been  fuUy  satisfied  with  the  zeal  displayed  by 
Hudson  in  this  expedition;  for've  find  him  in  1609 
setting  sail  firom  the  Texel  under  the  auspices  of  the 
Dutch  East  India  Company,  whose  hopes  of  a 
northern  passage  had  agam  revived.  On  the  6th  May 
he  passed  the  North  Cape,  and  on  the  19th  came  in 
view  of  Waidhuys.  Hudson,  though  so  excellent  a 
navigator,  is  a  most  unsatisfactory  writer.  His  nar« 
rative,  amid  vague  complaints  of  fog  and  ice,  shows 
ordy  Uiat  he  determined  to  turn  his  prow,  and  seek 
to  repass  the  North  Cape,  whence  he  steered  across 
the  Atlantic  to  America.  Forster  says  that  he 
reached  Nova  2embla,  an  assertion  directly  contrary 
to  the  captain's  own  narrative,  and  inconsistent  with 
the  time  spent  in  diis  part  of  the  voyage.  Accord 
ing  to  Constantin,  the  crew,  consisting  chiefly  of 
seamen  accustomeid  to  seek  India  by  the  tropical 
route,  were  soon  alarmed  by  the  fogs,  tempests,  and 
floaUnff  ice  of  the  north.  The  troth  is,  Hudson's 
own  nSnd  seems  to  have  been  fixed  on  north-westein 
discovery.  This  appeara  from  several  hints  in  his 
second  nsrrative;  and  he  was  pobably  inclined  to 
content  himself  with  a  men  snow  of  proceeding 
eastward,  that,  appanntly  baffled,  he  might  follow 
his  favourite  dbection.    He  seems  to  have  been  im- 

Eiessed  with  the  expectation  of  finding  an  open  sea 
etween  Virginia  and  Newfoundland;  and  in  fact 


the  stroni  ciuicnt 
a  large  nrer,  and 
g«  in  one  fathom, 
tat  numbers,  could 
ra.  The  ice  now 
lUi,  *•  very  fearful 
mercy  of  God  and 
the  danger,  yet  by 
ipe  of  a  nortn-eaat 
1  hi*  employers  to 
B  to  England, 
uscovy  merchants 
zeal  oisplayed  by 
I  find  him  in  1609 
the  auspices  of  the 
lioae  hopes  of  a 
1.  On  the  5th  May 
the  19th  came  in 
ugh  so  excellent  a 
r  writer.  Hisnar* 
bgand  ice,  shows 
18  prow,  and  seek 
:  he  steered  across 
Iter  says  that  he 
n  directly  contrarv 
d  inconsistent  with 
▼oyage.  Accord 
isisting  chiefly  of 
ia  by  the  tropical 
bgs,  tempests,  and 
truth  is,  Hudson's 
i  on  north-westein 
iveral  hints  in  his 
obably  inclined  to 
)w  of  proceeding 
I,  be  might  follow 
s  to  have  been  im- 
ndmg  an  open  sea 
land;  and  in.fact 


KOBTH-XAST  VOYAOKS. 


ut 


I»  discovered  the  important  bay  which  Kceives  the 
mer  caUed  after  him,  the  Hudson,  and  on  which 
Wew-York  has  been  suce  buUtj  but  this  Ues  out  of 
our  present  sphere. 

.- J  .  Hu«8ja  Company  made  afterward  some  at- 
tempts  to  establish  a  factory  on  the  Pechora;  but, 
after  persevering  for  two  or  tliree  seasons,  they  re- 
linquished  this  undertaking.  ^ 

In  1676,  Captain  John  Wood,  on'his  own  sanguine 
repreeenutions  of  the  probability  of  anorth-ewtem 
E2?**"a''S?  'S"*  ^"*  **y  *«  Admiralty  in  the  Speed- 
well.   On  the  farther  coast  of  Nova.Zembla,Vow- 

D™!!.*'**'  difficulty  reached  their  companion,  the 
Proeperoiw  Pink,  which  afforded  them  a  paraage 

throw  light  on  the  question,  brought  home  an  im- 
pression  respecting  it  so  very  gloomy,  that  the  plan 
of  penetrating  to  India  in  thi  direction  wasXEcS 
forward  given  up,  and  has  not  been  revived  even  in 
the  eras  of  the  most  enthusiastic  edteiprise. 


'»^iia^:f^ty£f^ma, 


4.'.->lS>lIiSS;>iit':  Sist^j^S 


m 


BAM.T  rOLAR  TOTA0IS 


T 


CHAPTER  V. 

Early  Voyagf  Umardt  the  Pole. 

Thi  attention  of  the  public,  it  has  appeared,  had 
been  eariy  drawn  towards  a  Polar  passage,  which, 
by  striking  directly  across  the  ice  and  tempests  of 
that  great  boundary,  might  bring  the  navigator  by 
a  shorter  route  than  any  other  to  the  golden  realms 
of  the  East  Mr  Robert  Thome,  the  zealous  pro- 
moter of  eariy  diswvery,  in  his  memorials  to  Henry 
VIH.  and  other  great  men,  placed  always  foremost 
the  scheme  of  reachins  India  by  this  daring  course. 
It  was  not  wOnderftd,  however,  that  such  a  voyage 
should  not  be  the  very  first  direction,  of  modem  en- 
terprise. A  century  had  elapsed  f.om  the  discovery 
of  the  pass^  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  half 
tiiiat  period  since  the  commencement  of  the  naval 
career  of  Britain,  before  her  seamen,  despairing  of 
success  by  tbs  more  circuitous  eastern  and  western 
tracks  hitbartd  fbUowed,  put  forth  all  tiwir  strength, 
and  attempted  to  penetrate  this  mighty  northern  bar- 
rior  of  the  earth. 

Bnrants,  in  his  third  vcnrage,  had  discovered  Spitz- 
bergen,  called  at  first  New-Land,  and  afterward 
Oieeidaiid;  but  it  was  by  fishing  «q>editions  that 
Endish  vessels  were  first  attracted  into  thsr  hirit  te- 
titwles  of  Uie  Greenland  at  Polar  Sea.  In  16C0,  Al- 
derman (Ur  Francis  Cneri«,  of  London,  fitted  out  the 
Godmad,  ondieff  the  commaad  of  Stephen  Bennet, 
i— mfiigly  with  a  vague  scheme  of  poshing  into  ioe 
nogrttMm  seas  in  seardi  of  whatever  fortune  miriit 
belUL  Bennet  began  by  the  beaten  track  of  the 
North  Ciqie,  Wardhuys,  and  Kola :  from  which  last 


IBf 


ike  Pole, 

has  appeared,  had 
tr  passage,  whichr 
and  tempests  of 
the  navigator  by 
the  golden  realms 
,  the  zealous  pro- 
Bmorials  to  Henry 
,  dways  foremost 
;his  daring  course, 
lat  such  a  voyage 
ipp.  of  modem  en- 
Lom  the  discovery 
od  Hope,  and  half 
nent  of  the  naval 
non,  despairing  of 
Mtem  and  western 
I  all  tfieir  strength, 
igfaty  northern  bar- 

1  discoiared  Spitz- 
id,  and  afterward 
g  expeditions  that 
)d  into  tbff  high  la- 
Sea.  Inl6M,Al< 
ndoiit  fitted  oat  the 
f  8t«ph«n  Bemet,, 
if  pashiog  into  tfa« 
WOT  iSwtime  miriit 
«ten  tnck  of  the 
i;  from  which  last 


• 


BAmLT   P01A»  rOTAOKS. 


13a 


£^'r^??'.'''^'".*'?***®"'^'*  !»»♦'«'  north  MHl 
north-west  into  the  Arctic  Sea.    On  the  l«th  AngiuJ 

.,!  iTf  °^^^)^  he  deacned  two  hUls  which  seized 
t^/^ol^T*'  *>,''I?'«>"-  In  fow  hours  he  reached 
i«!j?!y./"'*"l°^®!ir""*'  ^^  not  aware,  it  should 
Beem,or  Its  previous  discovery  by  that  navigator,  gave 

win/  H  ™'.u'^  employer,  the  name  of  cfferie 
if?.  «i.h  *"  V*"*  "I'lo"  caught  only  two  foxes  and 
a  few  fishes;  for  though  they  saw  the  teeth  of  a 
morse,  provmg  that  those  animals  did  "use  there." 
S^«»1^"  ""i'lfe*'  *~  fw  advanced  to  commence 
^r^-^y^.Jffe??,'"-    They  "turned  by  way  of 

nn  lL^«.iJ  «  ^"^^  ^^'  ■"*>  "»ehed  th^  Thahies 
on  the  15th  October.  -muob 

Sir  Francis,  on  the  return  of  the  ship,  thoosh  it 
came  empty,  judged  there  was  enconrageinent  enonrh 

Bennet,  accordiMly,  not  only  went  out  a  second  time, 
«l^^««.!r'""  "nceessive  voyages,  in  which  the 
capture  of  the  morse  was  cairied  on  with  considera. 
Die  extent  and  success. 

WhUe  these  fishing  voyages  were  going  on.  Henry 
Hudson,  in  1607,  was  sent?ut  by  the'Su^ovV  CoiS. 
:)any  to  penetrate,  if  possible,  directly  aer6ss  the 
.  ole.  It  was  the  first  occasion  of  this  very  bold  at- 
tempt,  and  the  first  recorded  voyage  of  this  eminent 
navfgator.  Hudson,  who  sailed^rUielSM«?XJ 
havmg  cleared  ScoUand,  and  passed  the  latitude  of 
Iceland,  took  a  direction  westward,  being  desirous 
to  murey  tto  nortbem  and  unknown  bouhdaries  of 
Greenland,  thinking  there  might  be  an  open  sea  in 
that  direction  as  likely  a.  in  ai^  other.  Onthristh 
June,  the  ahipe  were  hivolved  in  thick  fog,  their 
shrouds  and  saUs  befall  frown,  but  when  it  cleared 
next  mommg,  the  saiTon  descried  a  high  and  bold 
headland,  mostly  covered  with  snow,  bihind  which 
row  a  casteUated  mountain,  named  the  Mount  of 

2.«»l^Ty'    "^  "S:?  '•"•  »»*'  ^  ■*'  <■«»»  «em. 
perate  and  agreeable.  Thw  steered  ewtward  to  clear 


1S4 


lAMT  rOlAK  rOTAOM. 


thi*  eoMt  {  but,  aA«r  being  for  Mine  time  enveloped 
in  fogi,  again  saw  land,  very  high  and  bold,  and 
without  enow  evon  on  the  top  of  tne  loftiest  mouiw 
tains.  To  this  cape,  in  73°,  they  gave  the  name  of 
Hold-with-Hope. 

Hudson  now  took  a  north-eastward  direction,  and 
on  the  07th  faintly  perceived,  amid  fogs  and  mist, 
the  coast  of  Spitibergen.  He  still  pushed  northward, 
till  he  paseed  the  79th  degree  of  latitude,  where  hs 
found  tne  sun  perpetually  ten  degrees  above  the  hori- 
Bon,  yet  the  weather  piercingly  cold,  and  the  shrouds 
and  sails  often  froien.  The  ice  obliged  him  to  steer 
in  various  directions ;  but,  embracing  every  opportu- 
nity, he  pushed  on,  as  appeared  to  him,  to  81  i",  and 
saw  land  still  continuously  stretching  as  far  as  89P. 
But  as  the  northern  extremity  of  Spitsbergen  does 
not  lie  beyond  8!i<'  of  north  latitude,  he  must  here 
have  committed  some  mistake,  either  in  his  latitudes, 
or  in  mistdiing  for  land  extensive  fields  and  masse* 
of  ice.  It  has  been  supposed  that  he  had  again 
leached  the  opposite  coast  of  Greenland;  but  this 
seems  inconsistent  with  his  bearings,  which  are 
always  more  or  less  to  the  eastward.  The  latitudes 
of  81°  and  83°  he  considers  to  be  so  completely 
Iwned  with  ice  as  certainly  to  defeat  all  attempts  at 
a  passage  to  the  Pole  in  this  direction.  It  appeared 
to  himinowever,that  these  seas  mighv  oe  frequented 
with  great  advantage  on  account  of  the  immense 
multitude  of  seals  with  which  they  abound.  He  re- 
turned, coasting  along  Spitzbergen,  some  parts  of 
which  appeared  very  agreeable ;  and  on  the  16th  of 
September  arrived  in  the  Thames. 

Tlie  Muscovy  Company,  still  the  most  enterprising 
maritime  body  in  England,  determined  yet  to  fit  out 
another  expedition  for  Polar  discovery.  They  in- 
trusted it  to  Jonas  Poole,  who  had  distinguished  him- 
aelf  m  the  Cherie  Island  voyages ;  and  it  was  hinted 
to  him  that  though  discovery  was  to  be  his  main  ob- 
ject, yet  he  mi^t  catch,  at  intervals,  some  morses, 
and  even  one  or  two  whales,  to  naiko  the  Voyage 


T 


II. 

ifl  time  «nv«loped 
h  and  bold,  and 
Iw  loftleot  noouiw 
(are  the  name  of 

ird  direction,  and 
d  fogfa  and  miat, 
uahed  northward, 
ititude,  where  he 
ea  abore  the  hori* 
,  and  the  ahrouda 
ligod  liim  to  ateer 
tiff  every  opportu- 
Um,  to  811«,  and 
ng  aa  far  aa  89°. 
Spitsbergen  doea 
le,  he  muat  here 
er  in  hia  latitudea, 
Selda  and  maaaea 
At  he  had  again 
eenland;  but  thia 
ringa,  which  are 
■i.  The  latitudea 
be  80  completely 
•at  all  attempta  at 
lion.  It  app«ared 
ighv  oe  frequented 
t  of  the  immenae 
'  abound.  He  re- 
nt aome  parte  of 
ad  on  the  Iftth  of 

moat  enteipriaing 
ined  yet  to  fit  out 
iovery.  They  in- 
liatinffuiahednim- 
and  it  waa  hinted 
to  be  hia  main  ob- 
ala,  aome  moraea, 
Qiake  the  f  oyage 


■ARLT  roLAii  roYAoia. 


18(1 


ieftay  ita  own  expenaea.    Poole  took  hia  departure 
in  due  flflaaon,  aailing  from  blackwall  on  the  lit 
March,  leio.    By  the  16th  he  had  reached  the  coaal 
of  Norway,  in  lat.  65° ;  but  the  wind  then  blew  from 
the  north  lo  "extreme  fierce,  with  grea*  store  of 
enow  and  frost,"  and  the  veaael  waa  ao  laden  with 
ice,  that  it  could  not  maintain  a  «•  fore  courae,**  but 
waa  driven  back  aa  far  aa  Scotland.    Here  he  re- 
mained  till  the  19th  April,  when,  favoured  by  a 
aoutherly  breeze,  he  again  set  sail,  and,  after  many 
atorma,  snows,  and  extreme  frosts,  came  in  view,  on 
the  9d  May,  of  the  North  Cape.    He  then  steered  for 
Chcrie  Island,  near  which  he  Judged  himself  to  be  on 
the  6th ;  but  the  fog  was  such  that  he  could  not  sw  a 
cable's  length,  and  '*the  ship  had  many  a  knock; 
but,  thanks  be  to  God,  no  harm  waa  done."    Oontini' 
ingtobeat  about  in  this  obscurity,  he  entirely  missed 
Cherie  Island,  and  the  first  land  aeen  waa  in  76°  W, 
being  the  ahorea  of  a  sound  on  the  coast  of  Spitsber- 
gen, which,  fW>m  the  deera'  horns  found  there,  he 
named  Horn  Sound.    He  puahed  on  to  77^  SA*,  where 
he  found  the  air  more  temperate  than  he  had  felt  it 
at  the  North  Cape  at  the  aame  aeaaon.    Soon,  how 
ever,  there  was  a  complete  reverae ;  the  ahip  was  in 
Tolved  in  thick  foga^-and  wind,  froat,  anow,  and 
cold  seemed  to  strive  for  the  maatery.    After  many 
a  sore  stroke  he  got  the  veaael  throu^ ;  but  the 
mainsail  waa  atill "  troten  aa  hard  aa  ever  he  found 
any  doth,"  and  could  with  great  difficulty  be  aet. 
He  diacovered  an  ialand,  which  he  called  Blackpoint, 
and  the  nearest  promontory  he  named  Cape  Cold; 
but  next  day  the  weather  changed  ao  entirely  that, 
had  he  fallen  in  with  it  then,  he  would  have  given  it 
a  gentler  appellation;  therefore  he  called  another 
cape  Fair  Foreland.     Poole'a  views  continued  to 
brighten  when  he  found  that  the  ann,  aa  the  season 
advanced,  gave  a  most  powerful  heat;  that  the  ice 
waa  melted  on  the  ponds  and  lakea,  while  that  which 
atill  floated  on  the  sea  waa  not  nearly  so  huge  aa  he 
had  aeen  it  in  73  degrees.    He  conceived  favourable 


136 


BARLT  POUOl  TOTAOKS. 


hopes,  thenfore,  even  after  so  sharp  a  beginmni^ 
and  judged  that  a  passage  by  the  Pole  was  as  likely 
to  be  found  in  this  as  in  any  other  unknown  direc< 
tion.  He  might  therefore  have  been  expected  to  ap- 
ply himself  in  the  most  zeatous  and  determined  man- 
ner to  seek  the  passage.  A  large  herd  of  morses, 
however,  having  come  in  sight,  he  despatched  his 
crew  in  pursuit  of  them ;  and  from  this  time  there  is 
not  another  word  of  discovery,— but  the  taking  of  the 
wahrus  and  the  deer,  and  now  and  then  the  attack 
of  the  whale,  absorb  his  whole  attention.  He  met 
with  some  dangers.  One  day  he  attacked  a  herd  of 
moiBes  lying  on  ice,  which  proved  hollow,  and  sud- 
denly broke,  whereon  ice  and  beast  slid  into  the  sea 
togetlier,  and  the  crew  had  great  difficulty  in  not 
going  along  with  them,  especially  one  man ;  for,  be- 
sides being  crushed  by  the  weight  of  dead  morses 
and  ice,  the  animals  that  were  alive  struck  at  him  in 
the  water  and  severely  bruised  him.  Upon  the 
whole,  he  judged  Spitsbergen  to  be  milder  than 
Cherie  Island,  and  was  surprised  at  the  great  number 
of  deer,  and  at  the  care  of  Providence,  which  enabled 
them  to  subsist  with  so  little  pasturage,  with  only 
the  rocks  for  a  house,  the  starry  canopy  for  a  cover- 
ing, and  not  a  bush  or  a  tree  to  shelter  them  from  the 
nii^ing  cold  of  winter. 

Altlwugh  Poole  returned  from  this  voya^  without 
having  done  or  almost  attempted  any  things  yet  as 
he  brought  a  considerable  store  of  oil  and  morses* 
teeth,  his  employers  were  not  01  satisfied.  They 
fitted  him  mit  next  year  in  the  Elizabeth  of  60  tons, 
and  in  fheir  instructions  distinctly  informed  him  that 
discovery  was  to  be  his  main  object ;  yet  intimated, 
that  as  he  proceeded  with  the  Mary  Margaret  des- 
tined for  the  whale-fishery,  he  might  begin  with  join- 
ing her  in  taking  a  whale  or  two,  and  in  his  courea 
along  the  coast  kill  as  many  morses  as  might  chance 
to  present  themselves.  Having  extracted  the  oil,  he 
was  to  floor  the  hold  with  their  skins,  which  a  tanner 
had  agreed  to  purcnase  of  the  company;  but  all  this 


Bop  a  beginnings 
tie  was  as  likely 
unknown  direc- 
i  expected  to  ap- 
determined  man- 
herd  of  morses, 
s  despatched  his 
this  time  there  is 
the  t^ing  of  the 
then  the  attack 
intion.  He  met 
tacked  a  herd  of 
hollow,  and  sud- 
slid  into  the  sea 
difficulty  in  not 
ne  man ;  for,  be* 
of  dead  morses 
struck  at  him  in 
lim.  Upon  the 
be  milder  than 
ihe  great  number 
:e,  which  enabled 
urage,  with  only 
nopy  for  a  cover- 
ter  mem  from  the 

SToya^  without 
any  thing,  yet  as 
r  oil  and  morses' 
satisfted.  They 
Eibeth  of  50  tons, 
(iformed  him  that 
t;  yet  intimated, 
y  Margaret  des- 
t  begin  with  join- 
fid  in  his  coune 
I  as  might  chance 
:racted  the  oil,  he 
s,  which  a  tanner 
•any;  but  all  this 


I 


SAKLT  r0L.*R  TOTAOES. 


187 


only  to  lighten  the  cost  of  discovery,  and  not  U>  be 
in  any  degree  a  primary  object 

The  vessels  set  sail  early  in  April  (1611),  but  were 
soon  separated  by  fogs  and  storms ;  and  when  Poole 
reached  the  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  he  found  only  three 
boats  escaped  from  the  wreck  of  the  Mary  Margaret. 
In  the  rest  of  his  proceedings  we  never  hear  a  single 
word  of  Polar  discovery;  but  uo  appUed  himself 
most  diligently  to  the  secondary  object;  and  by  the 
3d  of  August  lie  had  accumulated  oil,  morse  skins, 
and  teeth,  to  the  extent  of  29  tons, — a  good  lading, 
he  observes,  for  a  ship  of  50.  Accordingly  it  proved 
her  ruin.  As  the  last  package  was  brought  in  she 
went  entirely  to  one  side,  and  all  the  morse  skins 
which  lay  loose  in  the  hold,  slipping  in  the  same  di- 
rection, carried  her  entMly  under  water.  Poole, 
who  sat  in  the  cabin,  considered  himself  as  having 
oii>  the  selection  of  two  deaths,  either  to  be  drowned 
by  remaining,  or,  in  attempting  escape,  to  be  killed 
by  the  casks,  staves,  and  divers  other  things  which 
were  traversing  the  ship  in  every  direction.  He 
chose  the  latter  alternative  as  the  least  certain,  and 
though  twice  beaten  down,  was  plucked  from  the 
jaws  of  death,  being  enabled  to  crawl  out  with  only 
his  scull  laid  open,  his  ears,  back,  and  ribs  severely 
bruised.  The  crew,  who  all  escaped,  were  taken  on 
board  a  Hull  ship  commanded  by  Thomas  Marma- 
duke,  of  whom  Poole  makes  many  complaints,  which 
Purchas,  thinking  too  diffiise,  has  omitted.  Of 
Greenland  in  general  Poole  observes,  that  when  he 
went  first,  the  mountains  and  plains  were  almost 
white  with  snow;  afterward  they  appeared  green 
with  grass  and  a  little  moss;  but,  lastly,  the  sun 
with  his  powerful  heat  dissolved  the  ice,  and  exhaled 
such  a  profusion  of  vapours,  that  the  day  there  dif- 
fered little  from  the  darkest  night  elsewhere. 

He  was,  nevertheless,  sent  out  a  third  voyage  in 
1613  with  two  vessels,  the  Whale  and  the  Seahorse; 
but  he  seems  on  this  occasion  also  to  have  busied 
MS 


138 


CAELT  FOLAR  VOTAOCa. 


himself  Mlely  in  the  attack  of  whales,  which  he 
killed  to  the  amount  of  tUrteen.  Nothingr  is  men 
tioned  of  any  thing  being  eiUier  attempted  or  pro 
jected  in  relation  to  discorery ;  but  he  relates  that 
Thomas  Marmaduke  penetrated  to  the  latitude  of  88° 
No  detail,  however,  is  given,  nor  have  we  any  nam 
tive  from  Maimaduke  himself;  which  is  to  be  re- 

g retted,  as  he  seems  to  have  been  more  deeply  im- 
ued  with  the  q|)irit  of  discovery  than  an>  other 
mariner  of  that  time. 

The  next  expedition  was  in  1613,  und«  'Villiam 
Baflto,  the  most  learned  navigator  of  th  e,  and 
one  of  the  greatest  names  in  northern  discovery.  It 
vraa  not,  however,  by  this  voyage  that  he  obtained 
his  reputation,  though  he  was  provided  with  six  good 
and  well  armed  ships ;  tht  object  seems  to  have  been 
little  else  than  to  chase  from  the  Greenland  seas  all 
other  vessels  that  might  attempt  to  use  them  for 
fishery.  Their  system  was,  wlwnever  they  fell  in 
with  a  foreign  vessel,  to  summon  the  master  on 
board,  show  the  king's  commission  granted  to  the 
worshipfid  Company,  and  desire  them  to  depart,  on 
pain  of  having  a  cannonade  immediately  opened  upon 
them.  The  strength  of  the  English  bemg  in  genera] 
decidedly  superior  to  that  of  sny  other  squadron  that 
appeared  in  those  seas,  these  terms  were  usutdly  ac- 
ceded to  without  any  attempt  at  opposition.  At  one 
time,  indeed,  five  vessels,  Dutch,  French,  and  a  large 
one  of  700  tons  from  Biscay,  mustered,  and  showed 
signs  of  offering  battle ;  but  the  Biscayner  having 
lost  courage  and  jrielded,  the  rest  were  obliged  to 
follow  his  example.  Another  Dutch  ship  havmg  re- 
Aised,  and  endeavoured  to  make  oflT,  so  brisk  a  fire 
was  opened  upon  her,  that  die  had  nearly  run  on 
shore,  and  was  fain  to  submit  A  considerable  num- 
ber of  English  s^lors  seem  to  have  been  on  board 
these  foreign  ships,  who  were  all,  wherever  they 
could  be  found,  forcibly  taken  out.  It  seems  difl!- 
cult  to  discover  on  what  ground  the  English  founded 
their  rij^t  to  these  coasts,  since  they  had  neither 


IKS. 

frhales,  which  he 
Nothings  is  men 
attempted  or  pro 
it  he  relates  that 
he  latitude  of  88° 
we  weanynmrra 
rhich  is  to  be  re- 
more  deeply  im- 
r  than  an>  other 

13,  iind«    'Villiam 

of  tb  -e,  and 
im  discovery.    It 

that  he  obtained 
ded  with  six  good 
>ems  to  have  been 
reenland  seas  all 

to  use  them  for 
lever  they  fell  in 
a  the  master  on 
n  granted  to  the 
lem  to  depart,  on 
ately  opened  upon 
1  bemg  in  general 
her  squadron  that 
I  were  usually  ac- 
iposition.  At  one 
rench,  and  a  large 
ired,  and  showed 
Biscayner  having 

were  obliged  to 
shshiphavmgre- 
>ir,  BO  brisk  a  fire 
id  nearly  run  on 
onsideraUe  num- 
ve  been  on  board 
I,  wherever  they 
It  seems  difli- 
!  English  founded 
they  had  neither 


■AKLY  rOhJkR  VOTAOSS. 


189 


oeen  the  first  discoverers,  nor  held  them  in  any  sort 
of  occupation.  In  fact,  they  were  not  able  ultimately 
to  make  good  the  pretensions  assumed  in  so  violent 
a  manner.'^ 

^ere  is  no  mention  of  any  anxiety  or  efforts  of 
Baflin  for  the  purpose  of  discovery.  On  the  con- 
irary,  Marmaduke,  who  had  been  again  attempting 
to  penetrate  to  the  north  of  Spitzblrgen,  was  chkt 
den  as  having  thereby  hindered  the  voyage,  and  was 
prohibited  frona  any  farther  attempts  of  the  kind  this 
season.  The  former,  however,  made  some  curious, 
and  at  that  time  novel,  observations  on  the  effects 
o' Jj^fraction,  in  hi^h  northern  latitudes. 

The  Company  stiU  did  not  consider  the  question 
of  a  northern  passage  decided,  as  indeed  since  the 
time  of  Hudson  it  could  not  be  said  to  have  been 
wjnously  attempted.  In  1614  they  appointed  Robert 
Fotherby.in  the  Thomasine,  to  accompany  their  great 
Greenland  fleet  of  ten  ships  and  two  pihnacesf  and 
while  the  rest  were  busied  in  fishery  to  devote  him- 
self mainly  to  discovery.  Balfin  accompanied  him 
as  pilot.  After  considerable  obstructions,  eleven 
ships  being  at  one  time  fast  among  the  i^Mhe  cap- 

&i''''i''*«*  °^.^""*'  pushed  on  to  Hakluyt^; 
Headland.    He  endeavoured  to  penetrate  through 
Magdalena  Bay,  which  he  colls  Maudlen  Sound ;  but 
the  weather  was  foul,  and  the  ice  lay  unbroken  bom 
shore  to  shore.    On  the  10th,  the  weather  peimitting. 
he  stood  farther  out,  and  succeeded  in  passing  to  the 
north  of  Hakluyt's  Headland;  but  the^toe^Sw  piS 
sented   an  impenetrable  barrier.     Fotherby  then 
steered  westward,  in  hopes  of  a  more  favourable 
opening ;  but  the  ice  trending  south-west,  he  sailed 
twenty-eight  leagues  without  success,  and  then  its- 
turned  to  the  Foreland.    About  the  middle  of  Jidv 
the  air  becoming  clear  and  favourable,  the  com- 
mander  and  Baffin  ascended  a  high  hill,  to  see  what 
prospect  there  was  of  getting  forward;  but.  as  far 

f^A^^  ''""^^  ^rf,™'  *?*  '"y  »Po»  »he  sea,  which 
indeed  seemed  whoUy  "boimd  with  ice,"  though  in 


140 


XARLT  POLAR  TOTAOES. 


the  extreme  distance  there  was  an  appearance  of 
open  water,  which  inspired  some  nope.  After 
amusing  themselves  for  some  days  with  whale-kill- 
ing, they  again  mounted  a  very  high  hill,  whence 
thev  saw  an  extensive  sound,  but  much  pestered 
with  ice.  This  was  Sir  Thomas  Smith's  Sound, 
which  they  afterward  ascended  to  its  head,  and  found 
a  good  harbour,  very  advantageously  situated  for 
the  whale-fishery. 

It  was  now  the  9th  of  August,  and  Fotherby  saw 
two  Dutch  ships,  that  had  been  appointed  for  north- 
em  discovery,  making  their  way  southward;  but 
he  was  determined  not  to  be  baffled  without  some 
farther  struggle.  He  pushed  to  the  northward  from 
Cape  Barren,  and  had  made  twenty-four  leagues, 
when  he  met  the  ice.  He  coasted  along  it  for  two 
days,  hoping  for  some  adventure  among  its  shat- 
tered fragments ;  but  a  north  wind  sprang  up,  with 
heavy  snow,  and  every  thing  being  cold,  thick,  and 
winter-like,  he  was  forced  again  into  harbour.  The 
shore  and  hill  being  now  covered  with  snow,  the 
men's  minds  became  possessed  with  a  desire  of  re- 
turning to  England ;  but  Fotherby  was  unwilling  to 
depart  without  some  farther  satisfaction.  He  went 
in  a  boat  up  RedcliiTe  Sound,  and  though  ice  was 
newly  formed  upon  it,  of  about  the  thickness  of  a 
half-crown  piece,  he  pierced  through,  and  got  into 
open  water.  The  snow,  however,  continued  to  fail 
thick,  and  the  east  wind  forcibly  blew  in  the  ice,  so 
that  they  were  glad  to  return  to  the  ship.  Passing 
a  point,  it  was  observed  that  a  cross  which  they  had 
erected,  with  the  king's  arms  and  a  sixpence  nailed 
upon  it,  had  been  taken  down,  "  sixpence  and  all," 
by  the  Dutch,  and  Prince  Maurice's  arms  substi- 
tuted ;  this,  however,  was  speedily  redressed. 

About  the  end  of  August,  a  gale  sprang  up  from 
the  south-west,  and  brought  milder  weather  than  at 
any  former  period  of  the  season ;  and  the  strenpth 
of  the  thaw  was  proved,  by  the  huge  masses  fallmg 
from  the  snowr  banks  into  the  sea,  with  a  noiae 


IE8. 

in  appearance  of 
ne  nope.  After 
9  with  whale-kill- 
tigh  hill,  whence 
[t  much  pestered 
I  Smith's  Sound, 
ta  head,  and  found 
usly  situated  for 

uid  Fotherby  saw 
minted  for  north- 
southward;  but 
led  without  some 
e  northward  from 
nty-four  leagues, 
d  along  it  for  two 
among  its  shat- 
I  sprang  up,  with 
g  cold,  thick,  and 
to  harbour.  The 
i  with  snow,  the 
ith  a  desire  of  re- 
was  unwilling  to 
action.  He  went 
1  though  ice  was 
tie  thickness  of  a 
[igh,  and  got  into 
I  continued  to  fail 
)lew  in  the  ice,  so 
he  ship.  Passing 
IS  which  they  had 
a  sixpence  nailed 
ixpence  and  all," 
ce's  arms  substi- 
redressed. 
e  sprang  up  from 
r  weather  than  at 
and  the  strength 
ige  masses  falling 
sea,  with  a  noiae 


BAiay   POi.AR  VOrAGBS* 


141 


like  thunder.  Conceiving  better  hopes,  Fotherby 
pushed  out  again,  in  a  north-west  direction,  till  lie 
came  nearly  to  the  latitude  of  80°,  when  he  heanl  a 
mighty  noise  of  the  waves,  as  it  were,  breaking  on 
an  extensive  shore.  It  proved,  however,  that  he  was 
now  on  the  margin  of  the  great  northern  ice.  He 
coasted  for  some  time  along  that  grand  barrier;  but 
was  soon  embayed,  and  with  difficulty  extricated. 
1  hs  season  advancing,  he  took  the  benefit  of  a  north 
wind  to  steer  homeward,  and  on  the  4th  October  ar- 
rived  at  Wapping,  with  his  whole  crew  of  twenty-six 
men  in  perfect  health. 

Fotherby,  having  recommended  himself  on  this 
voyage  by  spirit  and  digilence,  was  sent  out  next 
year   (1616)   by  the  worsWpful  Company,  in  the 
Uichard,  a  pmnace  of  only  twenty  tons.    After  many 
conflicts  with  ice  and  fog,he  reached  Hakluyt's  Heai 
land  about  the  beginning  of  July.    He  soon  began 
his  career  of  discovery ;  but  a  strong  southerly  gale 
driving  him  upon  the  ice,  shattered  his  bark  consi- 
derably,  and  obliged  him  to  return.    As  soon  as  his 
vessel  was  refitted,  he  endeavoured,  by  a  westerly 
course,  to  find  an  opening  among  the  ice,  which  pro. 
jected  m  various  points  and  capes,  but  remained  still 
fixed,  and  he  found  himself  pushed  by  it  southward 
to  the  latitude  of  76o.    We  soon  find  him  stiU  farthei 
west,  on  what  he  thought  should  have  been  the  south- 
em  part  of  Hudson's  Greenland;  and  sea-fowls  in  vast 
flocks  seemed  to  indicate  land,  but  the  fog  lay  so 
thick,  "that  he  might  easier  hear  land  than  see 
It."    However,  about  lat.  7IJ°,  the  air  cleared,  and 
he  descried  a  snowy  hiU  very  high  amid  the  clouds; 
and  the  fog  lying  on  each  side,  made  it  appear  like 
a  great  continent.    It  proved,  however,  to  be  only 
an  island,  probably  Jan  Mayen ;  and  as  the  shores 
presented  nothing  but   drift-wood,  and  appeared 
as  if  fortified  with  castles  and  bulwarks  of  rock, 
no  shelter  was  afforded  from  a  heavy  gale  which 
oegan  to  blow.    This  induced  him  to  stand  out 
again  to  sea.    He  regained  the  northern  point  of 


1  ^ 


I  "v'r'ri.A:'^' 


142 


SARLT  POLAR  TOTAOEf. 


\ 


Spitzbergen,  and  began  to  beat  for  a  Polar  pas- 
sage. The  wind,  however,  blew  so  strong  from 
the  north-north-east,  that  he  gave  up  the  attempt,- 
only  resolving,  on  his  way  home,  to  take  a  sur^ 
vey  of  Hudson's  Hold-with-Hope.  He  came  to 
the  place  where  it  ought  to  have  been,  but  find- 
ing no  land,  he  insisted  that  Hudson  must  have 
been  mistaken  in  the  position  assigned  to  it,— a  sus- 
picion which  lias  been  recently  confirmed  by  Mr. 
Scoresby.  Availing  himself  then  of  a  brisk  north- 
eriy  breeze,  he  sailed  for  England. 

Fotherby,  on  being  asked  as  to  the  prospects  of  a 
passage  through  these  seas,  replied,  that  though  he 
had  not  attained  in  this  respect  his  desire,  nothing 
yet  appeared  to  exclude  hope.  There  was  a  spacious 
sea  between  Greenland  and  Spitzbergen,  though 
much  pestered  widi  ice ;  and  he  would  not  dissuade 
the  worshipful  Company  from  a  yearly  adventure  of 
£160,  or  £200  at  the  most;  and  the  little  pinnace, 
with  ten  men,  in  which  he  had  sailed  two  thousand 
leagues,  appeared  to  him  more  convenient  for  that 
puipose  than  any  of  larger  dimensions.  A  very  lonj 
period,  however,  elapsed  before  any  attempt  of  thk 
nature  was  resumed.  . 


f 


AOSf. 

t  for  a  Polar  pas* 
!w  so  strong  from 
ve  up  the  attempt,- 
ne,  to  take  a  sur- 
>pe.  He  came  to 
ive  been,  but  flnd- 
fludson  must  have 
signed  to  it, — a  sus- 
•  confirmed  by  Mr. 
n  of  a  brisk  north- 
d. 

}  the  prospects  of  a 
ied,  that  though  he 
i  his  desire,  nothing 
'here  was  a  spacious 
ipitzbergen,  though 
would  not  dissuade 
yearly  adventure  of 
1  the  little  pinnace, 
sailed  two  thousand 
convenient  for  that 
sions.  A  very  long 
any  attempt  of  thk 


/ 


BARtT  N0RTH-WX8T  TOTAOSS.  148 


CHAPTER  VI. 
Early  Vo^       si.  ho/aJ^orth-Wat  Paii$ag 

NoTwiTHSTANDUfo  the  early,  repeated,  and  vigorous 
efforts  to  discover  a  passage  by  the  east  and  north* 
east,  the  west  was  the  quarter  which  finally  drew 
forth  the  grandest  series  of  naval  enterprise,  and  flat- 
tered  the  nation  longest  with  the  hope  of  this  signal 
discovery.  The  maritime  world  were  yet  very  Uttla 
aware  of  the  immense  breadth  of  America  at  its 
northern  limit.  That  continent  was  long  imagined 
to  terminate  in  a  cape,  after  rounding  which,  and 
passing  through  the  strait  of  Anian,— an  imaginary 
channel,  supposed  by  the  early  geographers  to  sepa- 
rate America  from  Asia, — an  entrance  would  be 
opened  at  once  into  the  Pacific,  and  the  navigator 
might  proceed  full  sail  to  Japan,  China,  the  Spice 
Islands,  and  all  the  regions  abounding  in  Indian 
wealth. 

Portugal,  first  of  the  European  nations,  had  em- 
barked in  the  career  of  ocean-discovery.  Her  mo- 
narchs  and  princes  devoted  their  most  anxious  study 
and  all  the  resources  of  their  kingdom  to  double  the 
southern  point  of  Africa,  and  thereby  to  overcome 
the  obstacles  opposed  by  that  continent  to  a  direct 
commerce  with  India.  Their  efforts  were  crowned 
by  the  discovery  of  the  passage  by  the  Cape,  through 
which  the  trade  and  treasures  of  the  Eastern  World 
became  theirs.  This  would  have  been  the  most 
brilliant  maritime  enterprise  ever  performed,  had  it 
not  been  rivalled  by  the  contemporaneous  discovery 
of  America.  Enough  might  seem  to  have  been  done 
both  for  the  benefit  aod  the  glory  of  Portugal,  with* 


144 


lAKLT  NORTn-WXST  V0TA0E9. 


out  directins  the  national  regources  into  any  other 
channel.    Yet  one  of  the  most  illustrious  houses  of 
that  kingdom,  with  much  enthusiasm  and  no  small 
loss,  devoted  itself  to  western  navigation.     This 
house  was  that  of  Cortereal ;  for  a  member  of  which, 
John  Vaz  Cortereal,  claims  are  advanced  as  having 
discovered  Newfoundland,  nearly  a  century  before 
the  celebrated  vojrages  of  Columbus  or  Cabot.    In 
1600,  his  son,  Caspar  Cortereal,  immediately  upon 
the  discovery  of  the  Western  World,  resolved  to  fol- 
low in  the  steps  of  Columbus.    Having  obtained  from 
the  king  two  vessels,  he  touched  at  Terceira,  one  of 
the  Azores,  proceeded  northward,  whence  he  endea- 
voured to  find  his  way  to  India  b)  some  of  the  higher 
latitudes.     Respecting  the  details  of  this  voyage 
there  remain  only  detached  shreds,  which  Mr.  Barrow 
has  collected  with  equal  learning  and  diligence.    His 
first  attempt  appears  to  have  been  made  by  the  broad 
Opening  of  the  Gulf  of  St  Lawrence,  which  he  pro- 
bably ascended,  till,  by  the  narrowing  cha.inel  and 
the  descending  current,  it  was  ascertained  to  termi- 
nate in  a  river,  and  to  afford  no  hope  of  a  passage 
round  America.    He  then  steered  northwards,  and 
passed  along  a  coast  which  Europeans  have  since  com- 
monly called  Labrador,  but  which  in  the  early  maps 
beara  from  him  the  name  of  Corterealis.    In  some  of 
the  relations,  this  coast  is  called  Terra  Verde  (Green- 
land), but  it  has  nothing  in  common  with  the  coun- 
Sto  which  Europeans  have  almost  as  improperly 
xed  that  name.    The  territory  is  represented  as 
amply  stocked  with  timber,— a  description  which 
applies  to  the  spacious  forests  of  fir  and  pine  that 
elothe  the  region  immediately  north  of  Canada.    The 
natives  are  correctly  descrilied  as  of  small  stature, — 
a  simple  and  laborious  race;— and  no  less  than  fifty- 
seven  being  allured  or  carried  on  boafd,  were  con- 
veyed to  Portugal.    After  a  run  along  this  coast,  es- 
tinated  at  eight  hundred  miles,  Cortereal  came  to  a 
legion  which  appeared  to  some  as  lying  almost  be- 


0TA0E9. 

ees  into  any  other 
lustrioui  houses  of 
asm  and  no  small 
navigation.     This 
I  member  of  which, 
dvanced  as  having 
'  a  century  before 
bus  or  Cabot.    In 
immediately  upon 
rid,  resolved  to  fol< 
ving  obtained  from 
It  Terceira,  one  of 
whence  he  endea- 
some  of  the  higher 
s  of  this  voyage 
which  Mr.  Barrow 
nd  diligence.    His 
made  by  the  broad 
ice,  which  he  pro- 
mng  cha.inel  and 
ertained  to  termi< 
hope  of  a  passage 
d  northwards,  and 
ns  have  since  com- 
in  the  early  maps 
etUii.    In  some  of 
rru  Verde  (Green- 
m  with  the  coun- 
lost  as  improperly 
is  represented  as 
description  which 
fir  and  pine  that 
I  of  Canada.    Tlie 
•f  small  stature, — 
no  less  than  fifty, 
board,  were  con- 
ong  this  coast,  es- 
trtereal  came  to  a 
Ijring  almost  be- 


KASLT   NORTH-West   VOTAOES. 


140 


neath  the  Pole,  and  similar  to  that  formerly  reached 
by  Nicolo  and  Antonio  Zeno.    Ramusio  more  explU 
citly  states  the   highest  latitude  attained  as  oidy 
60  ,  which  would  place  the  vessels  about  the  en- 
trances into  Hudson's  Bay.    But  the  season  must 
.h«  d7®  ''••'"  far  advanced;  and  the  approach  of 
the  Polar  wmter,  the  floating  mountains  of  ice,  the 
thick  snows  which  filled  the  air.-all  the  gloomy 
characteristics  of  an  Arctic  winter,-mu8t,  to  a  crew 
accustomed  only  to  navigate  the  warm  and  temperate 
seas,  nave   appeared  peculiarly   terrible.     It  was 
'W^l  .u"°^''^"*^'y  necessary  to  return  to  Portugnl. 
1  nat  this  necessity,  however,  was  considered  to  arise 
irom  the  season  only,  and  that  no  general  panic  was 
strack  into  the  mmd  of  this  intrepid  navigator,  was 
sufficiently  testified  by  his  appearing  on  thi  sea  next 
season  with  two  vessels,  which  he  guided  directly  to 
the  most  northerly  point  of  the  former  voyage.    Here 
he  18  described  as  entering  a  strait,   Huron's  per- 
haps,  or  more  probably  Frobisher's;  but  at  this  cri- 
tical  point  of  the  voyage  the  vessels  were  separated 
^''uTP***'  *"^  probably  by  the  floating  ices  with 
which  these  straits  are  infested.    One  of  them  sue 
ceeded  in  extncating  itself,  and  searched  for  some 
time  in  vain  for  its  lost  consort;  but  that  which  had 
on  board  the  gallant  leader  of  the  expedition  returned 
no  more,  and  no  trace  could  ever  be  obtained  of 
Its  fate. 

When  these  gloomy  tidings  were  conveyed  to  Por- 
tugal,  Miguel  Cortereal,  a  younger  brother,  animated 
with  the  most  tender  affection  to  Gaspw,  and  with  a 
congemal  spirit  of  enterprise,  determined  to  depart 
m  search  of  him.  Early  next  spring,  having  equipped 
three  veskels,  he  saUed  on  the  lOth  May,  im,  from 
the  port  of  Lisbon.  On  arriving  at  the  numerous 
opemngs  into  Hudson's  Bay,  the  captains  adopted 
the  plan  ofseparating,  and  each  exploring  a  particu- 
lar inlet.  This,  however,  in  some  respects  promising, 
was  an  imprudent  step ;  for  nothing  could  have  more 


t^S 


^S'WUfflkwmr 


146 


KARtV   NOATH-WKST    TOTAOIS. 


conduced  to  inutiml  safoty  than  to  liave  kept  clowj 
toijcther,  and  aiderl  each  oihtjr  in  those  dreatlful  exi- 
gencies to  wliich  this  navigation  is  liable.  It  proved 
a  fatal  measure ;  two  of  the  vessels  indeed  met  and 
returned ;  but  Miguel  and  his  crow  shared  the  fato 
of  those  whom  they  had  gone  to  seek, — they  returned 
not ;  and  it  was  never  known  whtire  or  how  they 
perished.  The  survivors  reported  at  Lisbon  this 
heavy  aggravation  of  tlie  former  distress.  Fraternal 
affection  and  daring  courage  seem  to  have  throughout 
charaiiterized  this  noble  race.  There  was  still  a 
third  brother,  Vasco  Eanes,  who  besought  of  the 
king  permission  to  search  for  his  lost  kindred  even 
amid  the  abysses  of  this  vast  ocean ;  but  to  this  pro- 
ject a  royal  veto  was  absolutely  interposed,  the  king 
declaring  that  it  was  too  much  to  have  lost  in  this 
cause  two  of  his  best  and  most  faithful  servants. 
After  a  commencement  so  gloomy,  aiid  such  gallant 
efforts  made  in  vain,  it  does  not  appear  that  the  pro- 
ject of  a  northern  passage  was  ever  revived  in  Por- 
tugal. 

Spain,  which  had  made  the  discovery  of  America, 
and  from  that  success  derived  so  much  glory  and 
wsalth,  might  have  been  expected  to  take  a  peculiar 
interest  in  every  thing  connected  with  its  farther  ex- 
ploration. The  fact  however  appears  to  be,  that,  re- 
velling among  the  rich  plains  and  glittering  treasures 
of  Mexico  and  Peru,  she  felt  little  uttraction  towards 
the  bleak  confines  of  the  northern  Pole.  Only  one 
very  early  voyage  is  mentioned,  that,  namely,  which 
was  undertaken,  in  1534,  by  Gomez,  witli  a  view  of 
discovering  a  shorter  passage  to  the  Moluccas.  He 
is  said  to  have  brought  home  a  few  of  the  natives ; 
but  no  record  is  preserved  either  of  the  events  which 
attended  his  enterprise  or  even  of  the  coast  on  which 
he  arrived.  There  remains  of  it,  as  has  been  ob- 
served, only  a  jest,  and  one  so  indifferent  as  not  to , 
be  worth  repeating.  The  chief  exertions  of  Spain 
for  a  passage  were  made  from  Mexico  along  ilte 


'OTAOia. 

to  liave  kept  done 
tliose  Ureaclful  exi- 
8  liable.  It  proved 
e!a  indeed  met  and 
uw  sliared  the  fate 
sek, — they  returned 
here  or  how  Ihvy 
cd  at  Lishon  this 
liHtrc8s.  Fraternal 
to  have  throughout 
There  waa  still  a 
a  be80ught  of  the 

lost  kindred  even 
in ;  but  to  this  pro- 
nterposed,  the  king 
.0  have  lost  in  this 

faithful  servants, 
y,  aiid  such  gallant 
ppear  that  the  pro- 
ver  revived  in  Por- 

;overy  of  America, 
lo  muuh  glory  and 
1  to  take  a  peculiar 
with  its  farther  ex- 
ears  to  be,  that,  re- 
glittering  treasures 
iittraction  towards 
n  Pole.  Only  one 
hat,  namely,  which 
lez,  with  a  view  of 
the  Moluccas.  He 
BW  of  the  natives ; 
)f  the  events  which 
the  coast  on  which 
t,  as  has  been  ob- 
different  as  not  to 
exertions  of  Spain 
Mexico  along  ilie 


XAntY  WORTH-WEST  TOTAOES. 


14 


north-west  coast  of  Anirricai  but  thrsc  we  do  not 
propose  to  include  in  the  present  narrative. 

Britain  now  took  up  tliis  train  of  discovery,  and 
made  it  almost  exclusively  lier  own.  Her  cffortn  in- 
deed were  long  in  vain  :  the  barric^rs  of  natiire  wero 
too  mighty,  and  Am(!ri(!a,  stretching  hor  boundaries 
into  regions  tiiat  lie  beneath  the  perpetual  sway  of 
the  northern  tempest,  afforded  only  a  precarious  and 
doubtful  navigation.  Kngland,  however,  has  since 
earned  high  glory  in  this  career ;  she  has  formed  in 
it  some  of  her  greatest  naval  cc  mmjmders,  has  ofxtned 
new  chimnels  for  fishery,  fixed  the  limits  of  the 
western  continent,  and  explored  the  M'ide  seas  and 
large  islands  which  range  along  its  northern  boundarj'. 

The  few  attempts  at  northern  discovery  made  in 
the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.  were  all  in  this  direction. 
In  1697,  that  prince  was  so  far  wrought  upon  by  the 
representations  of  Mr.  Robert  Thome  of  Bristol,  as 
to  fit  out  two  handsome  vessels,  having  on  board 
"  divers  cunning  men,"  for  the  purpose  of  seeking 
and  describing  strange  regions.  The  chroniclers 
liowever.  Hall  and  Grafton,  who  narrate  this  u.jder- 
taking,  have  not  vouchsaied  any  report  upon  the  re- 
sult,—a  negligence  deeply  deplored  by  Hakluyt,  who, 
by  the  most  anxious  inquiry,  could  only  learn  froni 
Sir  Martin  Frobisher  and  Mr.  Richard  Allen,  that  one 
of  the  ships  was  called  Dominus  Vob'scum,  and 
that  one  of  the  cunning  men  was  a  canon  of  St. 
Paul's.  His  name  is  unknown ;  but  he  was  a  great 
mathematician,  and  wealthy,  and  shared  the  voyage 
in  person.  Hakluvt  was  also  informed,  that  the  ex- 
pedition had  steered  first  to  the  north  of  Newfoimd- 
land,  where  one  of  the  vessels,  adventuring  into  a 
deep  and  dangerous  gulf,  was  cast  away ;  the  other 
then  moved  southwaid,  and  having  made  observations 
on  Cape  Breton  and  other  coasts,  returned  to  Eng- 
land in  October. 

This  undertaking  was  followed,  nine  years  there- 
after, by  another,  set  on  foot  by  Mr.  Hore  of  London, 


^^^^^^^^^Mm&^^^m^^^M^m^^^^^ 


i 


148 


■ARtY  NORTH-WIST  TOTAOII. 


a  wealthy  and  entRrprinini?  individual,  who  easily  in- 
duced thirty  youHK  Reiitlcnion  of  family  and  fortune, 
•onie  of  whom  were  (mm  the  Inns  of  Court,  to  em- 
bark  alonjf  with  him.  Hakluyt  had  here  enually  to 
lament  the  absence  of  written  records ;  but  tie  found 
out  Mr.  Oliver  Dawbony,  who  sailed  in  one  of  the 
vessels;  and  having  learned  that  a  son* of  Sir  Wil- 
liam  Huts  of  Norfolk  had  been  of  the  party,  and  was 
atill  ilive,  he  rode  two  hundred  miles  for  the  purpose 
of  conversin^r  with  that  ^ntleman.  From  these 
sources  h«j  collected,  that  this  ^ay  band  of  volunteers, 
mustered  in  military  array  at  Gnivosend,  and  having 
taken  the  sacrament,  went  on  board.  They  had  a 
long  and  tedious  voyage,  during  which  their  buoyant 
spirits  considerably  nagged.  At  the  end  of  two 
months  they  reached  Gape  Breton,  then  held  as 
part  of  the  West  Indies.  Thence,  in  fulfilment  of 
their  views,  they  endeavoured  to  shape  a  more 
northerly  course.  They  reached  Penguin  Island,  the 
same  probably  since  called  Birds'  Island,  abounding 
so  remarkably  in  fowls  as  large  as  a  goose,  and  even 
in  bears,  which  made  such  tolerable  food,  that  all 
their  wants  were  supplied.  Having  proceeded  to 
Newfoundland,  Dawbeny  one  day  called  on  his  com- 
rades to  come  and  view  a  boat  with  the  «  natural 
people  of  the  country,"  whom  they  hal  earnestly  de- 
sired to  see.  A  barge  was  fitted  out  to  treat  with 
them ;  but  the  savages,  alarmed,  fled  precipitately, 
relinquishing  the  side  of  a  bear  which  tney  had  been 
roasting;  and  all  attempts  to  overtake  them  were 
fruitless.  This  coast  appears  to  have  been  singularly 
barren  and  desolate.  Food,  it  was  said,  could  be  pro- 
cured only  by  purloining  from  the  nest  of  an  oeprey 
the  fish  collected  for  her  young.  It  seems  strange 
that  they  should  have  remained  on  such  a  shore ;  but 
famine  soon  rose  to  such  a  pitch  as  to  drive  them  to 
a  most  friprhlful  extremity.  Several  of  them  waylaid 
a  compamon,  killed  him,  and  deposited  his  flesh  in  a 
secret  place,  to  which  they  repaired,  and  having 


ovMtn. 

ual,  who  easily  in- 
ramily  and  foitune, 
s  of  ('oiirt,  to  em- 
id  here  eoually  to 
anlR;  but  he  found 
ilod  in  one  of  the 
a  ton  of  Sir  Wil- 
the  party,  and  was 
ies  for  the  puiposo 
lan.  From  these 
land  of  volunteers, 
rosend,  and  having 
lard.  They  had  a 
hieh  their  buoyant 
t  the  end  of  two 
:on,  then  held  aa 
'■e,  in  fulfilment  of 
to  shape  a  more 
*enguin  Island,  the 
Island,  abounding 
a  goose,  and  even 
ible  food,  that  all 
iiig  proceeded  to 
called  on  his  com- 
vith  the  "natural 
r  ha.l  earnestly  de- 
out  to  treat  with 
fled  precipitately, 
lich  they  had  been 
;rtuke  them  were 
ve  been  singularly 
said,  could  be  pro- 
nest  of  an  oeprey 
It  seems  strange 
such  a  shore;  but 
8  to  drive  them  to 
il  of  them  waylaid 
lited  his  flesh  in  a 
ired,  and  having 


RARI.Y   NORTfl-WKST    VOVAOIS. 


140 


oasted  it  in  siiccp^iKivo  portions,  eagerly  fed  upon  it 
An  accKlt'iit  bfiniyi'd  tliis  dreiuiful  seciet.  One  oi 
the  company,  walking  with  another,  smelt  the  savour 
ol  broiled  meat,  and  reproached  his  comnwie  with 
keeping  a  private  hoard,  wiiilc  others  wen;  in  such 
learful  want.  They  came  to  high  words,  when  the 
giulty  person  said,  "  Well  if  you  will  have  it,  it  is  a 

iMcce  of '8  flesh."    Thi.  being  rejwrted  with 

Horror  to  the  captain,  he  called  together  his  crew, 
and  solemnly  representing  to  them  the  dreadful  guilt 
they  had  incurred,  obtained  a  promise  to  desist.     The 
lumme,  however,  becoming  always  more  cruel,  the 
were  at  length  driven  to  a  systematic  mode  of  cann- 
ing on  the  same  horrible  course,  and  had  arranged 
the  casting  of  lots  to  decide  whose  life  should  be 
sacnfleed  to  save  the  rest,  when  a  French  ship  ap- 
peared  m  view.     Finding  it  to  be  both  in  good  order 
and  well  stored  with  provisions,  the  Knglisii  scrupled 
not  to  atta(rk  and  seize  it,  recommending  the  ejected 
crew  to  the  ill-provided  bark  which  they  themselves 
had  left.     They  made  their  way  in  all  haste  home, 
which  they  reached  in  the  most  squalid  and  miserable 
state.    So  changed  was  young  Buts,  that  neither  Sir 
William  nor  his  mother  could  recognise  him,  till  he 
displayed  a  secret  mark  which  proved  him  to  be  their 
son.    fticantime  the  Frenchmen  arrived  in  their  own 
country,  and  raised  loud  complaints  against  the  cruel 
and  unwarrantable  manner  in  which  tlie  English  had 
treated  tliem.    Henry,  unable  to  deny  the  extreme 
hardship  of  their  case,  yet  moved  with  pity  towards 
his  own  subjects,  whom  he  was  miwiUing  to  punish, 
liberallvpaid  from  his  private  purse  the  fuU  extent 
of  the  loss. 

From  so  slight  a  narrative,  it  were  rash  to  form 
any  very  positive  conclusion;  yet  we  cannot  help 
observing,  that  there  is  little  appearance  of  the  ad- 
venturers  having  gone  out  duly  prepared  for  theii 
»ard  and  ardwoim  undertaking,  and  little  display  o 

N  a 


iftO 


EARLY  NORTH-WEST  TOTAOES. 


nautical  skill,  pradence,  or  good  conduct,  in  the  wtiole 
of  the  expedition. 

After  so  disastrous  a  trial,  the  spirit  of  western 
discovery  slumbered.  The  great  zeal  kindled  in  the 
succeeding  reiga  of  Edward  VI.  turned  wholly  to 
the  eastward,  producing  the  voyages  of  Sir  Hugh 
Willoughby  and  others,  which  have  been  recorded  in 
a  former  chapter.  It  was  otherwise  with  the  spirit 
of  enterprise  which  revived  under  Queen  Elizabeth. 
That  princess,  however,  though  abundantly  inclined 
to  favour  whatever  might  contribute  to  the  glory 
and  interests  of  her  kingdom,  did  not  originate  or 
prompt  any  of  these  schemes.  Sir  Humphrey  Gil- 
bert and  Mr.  Richard  Willis  wrote  treatises,  where 
learned  observations  were  combined  with  fanciful 
reasonings  and  erroneous  reports,  but  all  calculated 
to  influence  the  public  mind  in  support  of  such 
undertakings.  The  first  voyage  was  planned  and 
conducted  by  Martin  Frobisher,  an  oflicer  who  after- 
ward distinguished  himself  by  naval  exploits  in 
every  quarter  of  the  globe,  but  who  earned  his  early 
fame  by  contending  with  the  snows  and  tempests  of 
the  northern  deep.  Frobisher,  regarding  the  westerr 
passage  as  the  only  great  thing  still  left  undone 
m  the  world,  solicited  for  fifteen  years,  in  city  and 
court,  the  means  of  equipping  a  small  flotilla  capable 
of  accomplishing  this  important  object.  The  mer- 
cantile bodies  manifested  a  coldness  very  unlike  the 
zeal  displayed  on  former  occasions ;  but  some  lead. 
ing  men  at  court  were  at  last  more  propitious,  and 
through  the  favour  of  the  Earl  of  Warwick,  Fro- 
bisher was  enabled,  in  the  year  1576,  to  equip  three 
vessels,  respectively  of  35, 30,  and  10  tons.  These 
little  barks,  or  rather  boats,  seemed  ill  fitted  for 
ploughing  the  Arctic  deep;  yet  Mr.  Scoresby  has 
observed,  that  such  vessels  are  better  calculated  for 
threading  their  way  through  channels  obstructed 
oy  ice,  and  even  for  withstanding  somewhat  rude 


OTAOES. 

mduct,  in  the  ^ole 

i  spirit  of  Mrestern 
zeal  kindled  in  the 
turned  wholly  to 
rages  of  Sir  Hugh 
re  been  recorded  in 
,vise  with  the  spirit 
r  Queen  Elizabeth, 
ibundantly  inclined 
ibute  to  the  glory 
1  not  originate  or 
Sir  Humphrey  Gil- 
»te  treatises,  where 
lined  with  fanciful 
I,  but  all  calculated 
1  support  of  such 
was  planned  and 
n  officer  who  after- 
naval  exploits  in 
ho  earned  his  early 
va  and  tempests  of 
yarding  the  westerr 
:  still  left  undone 
years,  in  city  and 
nail  flotilla  capable 
object.  The  mer- 
less  very  unlike  the 
ns ;  but  some  lead, 
ore  propitious,  and 
of  Warwick,  Fro- 
576,  to  equip  three 
d  10  tons.  These 
imed  ill  fitted  for 
Mr.  Seoresby  has 
;tter  calculated  for 
lannels  obstructed 
ig  somewhat  rude 


EARLV  NORTH-WEST  TOYAOEB. 


10] 


Bhouks  from  it,  than  larger  alld  more  unwieldy 
fabrics. 

Frobisher,  on  the  8th  June,  dropped  down  from 
Deptford  to  Greenwich,  where  the  court  then  resided, 
and,  in  passing  by  the  palace,  fired  a  round  in  his 
best  style.    The  (jueen  looked  from  the  windows, 
cheering  and  waving  her  hand,  and  Secretary  Wal- 
singham  came  on  board  the  vessels,  wished  them 
success,  and  exhorted  the  crews  to  good  order  and 
obedience.    On  the  12th  the  expedition  passed  Til- 
bury  Hope,  and  having  on  the  19th  reached  Yar- 
mouth, stood  thence  out  to  sea.    On  the  86th  Fro- 
bisher saw  before  him  Swinbome  (Sumburgh)  Head, 
the  bold  southern  promontory  of  Shetland,  while  he 
had  Fair  Isle  to  the  nort'i-west.    In  the  ocean-navi' 
gation  which  followed,  he  has  only  recorded  his  dis- 
tances,  latitudes,  and  directions.    On  the  11th  July 
he  saw  a  range  of  awful  and  precipitous  summits, 
which,  even  in  the  height  of  summer,  were  all  white 
with  snow.    He  concluded  tliis  coast  to  be  the  Fries- 
land  of  Zeno,  but  in  fact  it  was  the  southern  point 
of  Greenland  near  Cape  Farewell.    A  boat  put  out 
towards  the  coast,  but  found  it  so  barred  with  ice 
and  obscured  by  fog,  that  it  waa  impossible  to  land. 
The  navigators  now  steered  westward,  suffering  se- 
verely from  northerly  gales.    On  the  14th  the  wujd 
shattered  their  foreyard,  aad  bore  the  mizenmast 
overboard;  and  on  the  16th  the  topmast  with  its  sail 
broke  oflF,  and  fell  into  ihe  sea.    They  continued  to 
press  on;  and  upon  ,'ht  22d  a  thick  mist  dispersing, 
showed  a  long  rango  of  coast,  judged  to  be  Labra- 
dor.   Ice,  however,  fc/med  an  impassable  barriei 
between  them  and  th  3  land,  while  the  line  went  down 
100  fathoms  without  touching  ground.    The  current 
was  ven'  strong,  but,  from  the  impossibility  of  com- 
ing to  anchor,  could  not  be  measured ;  yet  it  seemed 
not  less  than  a  league  and  a  half  an  hour.    On  the 
1st  August  the  discoverers  approached  to  make  ob- 
servations on  a  large  island  of  ice,  which,  as  they 


152 


XARLT  NORTH-MTXST  VOTAGES. 


>l 


were  viewing  it,  went  to  pieces,  and  fell  into  the  sea 
with  a  tremendous  crash. 

On  the  18th  they  reached  a  more  accessible  coast 
and  becamo  desirous  to  ascertain  if  it  was  inhabited. 
Seeing  seven  boats  plying  along  the  beach,  they  sent 
out  one  of  their  own,  the  crew  of  which,  by  holding 
up  a  white  cloth,  induced  a  native  canoe  to  approach; 
but,  on  seeing  the  ship,  the  people  immediately  turned 
back.  Frobisher  then  went  on  shore,  and,  by  the 
distribution  of  several  little  presents,  enticed  one  of 
thern  to  come  on  board.  This  person,  being  well 
treated  with  meat  and  drink,  made  on  his  return  so 
favourable  a  report,  that  nineteen  followed  his  ex- 
ample. The  sailors  had  then  a  full  opportunity  of 
observing  this  Esquimaux  race.  They  are  described 
as  "  like  to  Tartars,  with  long  black  hair,  broad  faces, 
and  flat  noses,  having  boats  of  seal-skin,  with  a  keel 
of  wood  within  the  skin."  Next  day  they  appeared 
more  shy,  and  with  some  difficulty  one  of  them,  by 
the  allurement  of  a  bell,  was  drawn  on  board.  Fro- 
bisher, having  no  intention  to  detain  him,  sent  a  boat 
with  five  men  to  put  him  on  shore  at  the  angle  of  a 
rock ;  but  these,  urged  by  curiosity  and  blinded  by 
false  confidence,  went  on  to  join  the  main  body  of 
the  natives — a  fatal  step ;  they  were  never  allowed 
to  return.  Frobisher  spent  two  days  firing  guns, 
and  making  inquiries  at  every  point,  but  without 
BDccess. 

On  the  2€th  August,  without  any  very  particular 
reason  assigned,  our  navigator  weighed  for  home ; 
when  passing  by  Greenland  and  Iceland,  and  coming 
in  view  of  Orkney,  the  Texel,  and  Yarmouth,  he 
reached  Harwich  in  the  beginning  of  October. 

Frobisher  had  made  little  progress  towards  a  west- 
em  passage ;  yet,  having  with  such  slender  means 
penetrated  thus  far,  and  discovered  a  new  country, 
dignified  with  the  title  of  Meta  Incognita,  his  voyage 
was  considered  highly  creditable,  and  as  affording 
good  promise  for  the  future.    The  public  intereui 


rOTAGES. 

and  fell  into  the  sea 

)re  accessible  coast 
I  if  it  was  inhabited^ 
the  beach,  they  sent 
f  which,  by  holding 
canoe  to  approach; 
immediately  turned 
shore,  and,  by  the 
ents,  enticed  one  of 
person,  being  well 
ade  on  his  return  so 
!n  followed  his  ex- 
full  opportunity  of 
They  are  described 
ck  hair,  broad  faces, 
;al-8kin,  with  a  keel 
t  day  they  appeared 
Ity  one  of  them,  by 
wn  on  board.  Fro- 
ain  him,  sent  a  boat 
e  at  the  angle  of  a 
sity  and  blinded  by 
1  the  main  body  of 
irere  never  allowed 
)  days  firing  guns, 
point,  but  without 

any  very  particular 
(veighed  for  home ; 
[celand,  and  coming 
and  Yarmouth,  he 
g  of  October, 
'ess  towards  a  west- 
uch  slender  means 
Ted  a  new  country, 
icognitii,  his  voyage 
e,  and  as  affording 
Phe  public  interest 


XARLT  NORTH-WEST  T0TA8ES. 


153 


was  excited  by  another  circumstance  of  a  very  illu 
Boty  nature.    AU  his  friends  importuned  him  to  cive 
them  something  or  other  which  had  come  from  Meta 
incogmta.    At  a  loss  to  satisfy  this  avidity,  he  cast 
his  eyes  on  a  large  stone  which,  from  its  glittering 
^pearance,  he  had  been  induced  to  take  on  board. 
He  broke  it  into  pieces,  and  distributed  them  amonp 
the  circle  of  his  acquaintances.    One  portion  was 
received  by  a  lady,  who  happened  to  drop  it  into  the 
lire,  where,  after  burning  for  some  time,  it  appeared 
to  glitter  like  gold.    Being  thereupon  carried  before 
tfte  goldsniiths,  they  were  so  ignorant,  or  so  misled 
by  the  enthusiasm  of  the  age,  as  to  pronounce  it  a 
valuable  ore  of  the  most  precious  of  metals.    This 
false  decision  threw  all  England  into  a  ferment  of 
joy.    There  was  no  difficulty  now  in  equippinjr  an 
expedition.    The  queen  contributed  the  ship  Ayde 
or  180  tons,  besides  means  for  enabling  Frobisliei 
to  fit  out  two  other  vessels,  the  Michael  and  Ga 
Dnel,  of  30  tons  each.    Being  invited  to  visit  the 
queen  at  Lord  Warwick's  seat  in  Essex,  he  re- 
ceived her  r-ajesty's  hand  to  kiss,  with  many  gracious 
expressions.  '  * 

Frobisher  sailed  on  the  86th  May,  1677,  with  such 
/.i!"^J??  ^"^i  that  on  the  8th  June  he  touched 
at  the  Orkneys  for  fresh  water,  aUowing  his  gentle- 
men  and  soldiers  to  go  on  shore  for  recreation?  The 
poor  mhabitants,  having,  it  is  probable,  suffered  from 
the  uuroads  of  pirates,  fled  from  their  houses  with 
ones  and  shneks,  but  were  soon,  1^  courteous  treat- 
ment,  induced  to  return.  Their  accommodations 
were  found  truly,  miserable ;  they  had  no  vent  for 
smoke,  but  a  fire  in  the  middle  of  the  house,  on  one 
«de  of  which  dwelt  the  family,  and  on  the  other  the 
catUe,— oatcakes  and  ewe-milk  their  only  food.  The 
Knglish  now  entered  on  their  perilous  voyage  throujrh 
the  northern  ocean,  during  which  they  were  much 
cheered  with  the  perpetual  light,  which  aUowed 
them  at  aU  hours  to  read  or  otherwise  amuse  them- 


I!  It 


164 


EARLY  NORTH-WEST  TOVAOEB. 


selves ;  which  is  observed  to  be  peculiijrly  cheering 
to  such  as  "  wander  in  unknown  seas  and  long  navi- 
gations, where  both  the  winds  and  raging  surges  do 
pass  their  common  course."  They  were  surprised 
to  see  large  fir-trees,  torn  up  by  the  roots,  floating  in 
the  midst  of  the  ocean.  On  the  4th  of  July  Friesland 
presented  its  awful  front,  consisting  of  a  range  of 
inaccessible  mountains  entirely  covered  with  snow, 
unless  where,  from  the  extreme  steepness  of  the 
cliffs,  it  had  broken  off  and  fallen  into  the  sea. 
During  four  days'  sail,  they  saw,  %vhenevcr  the  thick 
fogs  for  a  moment  dispersed,  a  similarly  dreary  coast, 
without  any  landing-place,  and  without  a  sign  of 
human  habitation  or  even  of  life ;  yet  little  birds,  ap- 
parently bewildered  amid  the  mist,  came  and  alighted 
on  board,  and  gave  the  impression  that  there  might 
be  a  milder  region  in  the  interior.  But  the  inexpe- 
rienced part  of  the  crew  were  especially  struck  by 
the  islands  of  ice,  rising  thirty  or  forty  fathoms  above 
the  water,  and- rooted  at  the  bottom  of  seas  whicli 
the  line  could  not  fathom. 

Frobisher  now  sailed  across  to  Labrador,  and 
touched  at  the  sound  which  received  his  name.  The 
coast,  however,  was  found  guarded  by  a  mighty  wall 
of  ice,  which  the  ships  could  not  penetrate;  but  the 
captain,  with  two  of  his  boats,  worked  his  way  into 
the  strait,  and  began  to  survey  the  country  and  people. 
So  crude  were  then  the  ideas  respecting  the  geogra- 
phy of  these  regions,  that  tliey  imagined  the  coast 
on  their  left  to  be  America,  and  tliat  on  their  right 
Asia.  Landing  on  the  American  side  they  scrambled 
to  the  top  of  a  hill,  and  erected  a  column,  which, 
after  the  great  patron  of  the  expedition,  was  called 
Mount  Warwick.  On  their  return,  cries  were  heard 
like  the  lowing  of  bulls,  and  a  large  body  of  natives 
ran  up  to  them  in  a  veiy  gay  and  cordial  manner. 
They  began  an  eager  traffic  for  the  trifling  ornaments 
displayed  by  their  visiters,  yet  declined  every  invita- 
tion to  go  on  board,  while  the  English  on  their  part 


TOVAOEB. 

peculiijrly  cheering 
I  seas  and  long  navi- 
nd  raging  surges  do 
rhey  were  surprised 
the  roots,  floating  in 
4th  of  July  Friesland 
isting  of  a  range  of 

covered  with  snow, 
le  steepness  of  the 
'alien  into  tiie  sea. 
,  whenever  the  thick 
inilarly  dreary  coast, 
i  without  a  sign  of 
;  yet  little  birds,  ap- 
st,  came  and  alighted 
on  that  there  might 
)r.  But  the  inexpe- 
especially  struck  by 

forty  fathoms  above 
attom  of  seas  which 

IS  to  Labrador,  and 
ived  his  name.  The 
ded  by  a  mighty  wall 
jt  penetrate;  but  the 
worked  his  way  into 
e  country  and  people, 
specting  the  geogra- 
imagined  the  coast 
1  tliat  on  their  right 
1  side  they  scrambled 
ed  a  column,  which, 
:pedition,  was  called 
im,  cries  were  heard 
arge  body  of  natives 
and  cordial  manner. 
he  trifling  ornaments 
leclined  every  invita- 
Snglish  on  their  part 


SARLT  NORTH-WEST  VOYAGES. 


165 


did  not  choose  to  accede  to  their  overtures  of  going 
into  the  country.  Frobisher  and  a  companion,  meet- 
ing  two  of  the  natives  apart,  rashly  seized  and  began 
dragging  them  to  the  boats,  hoping  there  to  gain  their 
friendship  by  presents  and  courtesy.  On  the  slippery 
ground,  however,  their  feet  gave  way,  the  Esqui- 
maux broke  loose,  and  found  behind  a  rock  their 
bows  and  arrows,  whic'.i  they  began  to  discharge 
with  great  fury.  Frobisher  and  his  comrade,  seized 
With  a  panic  scarcely  justified  by  two  such  miserable 
assailants,  fled  full  speed,  and  the  captain  reached 
the  boat  with  an  arrow  sticking  in  his  leg.  The 
crew,  imagining  that  something  truly  serious  must 
have  driven  back  their  commander  in  such  discom- 
fiture, gave  the  alarm,  and  ran  to  the  rescue.  Tlie 
two  barbarians  instantly  fled ;  but  Nicholas  Conger, 
a  stout  fellow,  servant  to  Lord  Warwick,  seized  one 
of  them  and  dragged  him  into  the  boat. 

Meantime  the  ships  outside  were  involved  in  a 
dreadful  tempest,  being  tossed  amid  those  tremen- 
dous  ice-islands,  the  least  of  which  would  have  been 
suflicient  to  have  crushed  them  into  a  thousand  pieces. 
To  avoid  dangers  which  so  closely  beset  them,  they 
were  obliged  to  tack  fourteen  times  in  four  hours ; 
but  with  the  benefit  of  the  perpetual  light,  the  skill 
of  their  steersman,  and  the  aid  of  Providence,  they 
weathered  the  tempest,  without  the  necessity  of 
driving  out  to  sea  and  abandoning  the  boats.  On 
the  19th,  Frobisher  came  out  with  a  large  store  of 
glittering  stone ;  upon  which,  says  Dionise  Little, 
"  we  were  all  rapt  with  joy,  forgetting  both  where 
we  were  and  what  we  had  suffered.  Behold,"  says 
he,  "  the  gloiy  of  man,— to-night  looking  for  death, 
to-morrow  devising  how  to  satisfy  his  greedy  appe- 
tite with  gold."  J       6       J    ftr- 

A  north-west  gale  now  sprang  up ;  before  which, 
like  magic,  the  mighty  barriers  of  ice  by  which  the 
ships  had  been  shut  out  melted  away.  They  had 
now  a  broad  and  open  passage  by  which  they  entered 


l-M, 


%    , 


168 


KAHLT  NORTH-WBBT  TOTAOEfl. 


the  Sonnd,  which,  in  the  conception  of  the  English, 
was  a  strait  leading  into  the  Pacific  Ocean.    In  a 
run  of  upwards  of  thiity  leagues  they  landed  at  differ- 
.  ent  points,  and,  mounting  to  the  tops  of  hills,  took 
possession  of  the  country,  with  solemn  and  sacred 
ceremonies,  in  name  of  her  majesty.    Having  found 
in  cne  place  a  bridle  of  singular  construction,  they 
examined  their  captive  upon  it,  who  thereupon  seized 
a  dog,  attached  the  bridle,  yoked  the  animal  in  a 
sledge,  and  exiiibited  the  Esquimaux  mode  of  driving. 
Tliis  person  admitted  knowledge  respecting  the  five 
men  captured  in  the  pieceding  year,  but  repelled 
most  strenuously  the  signs  by  which  the  English  in- 
timated their  belief  that  they  had  been  killed  and 
eaten.     However,  a  dark  source  of  suspicion  was 
soon  opened;  for  some  boats  of  the  natives  were 
found,  which,  along  with  bones  of  dogs,  flesh  of  un- 
known animals,  and  other  strange  things,  contained 
an  English  canvass,  loublet,  a  shirt,  a  girdle,  three 
shoes  for  contrary  feet* — apparel  which,  beyond  all 
doubt,  belonged  to  their  countrymen  lost  in  the  pre- 
ceding  year.    Anxiously  hoping  to  recover  them,  they 
left  a  letter  in  the  boat,  and  pen,  ink,  and  paper,  with 
which  to  return  an  answer.   Still  more  vigorous  mea- 
sures were  determined  upon  to  recover  or  avenge 
them.     A  party  of  forty,  under  Charles . Jackman, 
marched  iidand  to  take  the  natives  in  the  rear,  and 
drive  ihem  upon  the  coast,  where  Frobisher  with  his 
boats  waited  to  intercept  them.    The  wretches  had 
removed  their  tents  into  the  interior;  but  the  invaders, 
after  marching  over  several  mountains,  descried  an- 
other cluster  of  hrts,  supposed  at  first  to  belong  to  a 
different  party;  but  the  agitation  and  alarm  visible 
the  instant  the  v  were  observed,  showed  that  this  was 
the  guilty  band.    Tlie  Esquimaux,  hastening  to  their 
canoes,  pushed  out  full  speed  to  sea;  and  they  rowed 
with  a  rapidity  which  would  have  baffled  all  pursuit, 
had  not  Frobisher  with  his  boats  held  the  entrance 
of  the  Sound  and  there  awaited  them.    As  soon  a* 


"".-:>":iJ^i»iii#p^jAsM3ffeitejis^^ 


rOTAOXS. 

lion  of  the  English, 
acific  Ocean.  In  a 
liey  landed  at  differ^ 

tops  of  hills,  took 
solemn  and  sacred 
sty.  Having  found 
■  construction,  they 
10  thereupon  seized 
id  the  animal  in  a 
ux  mode  of  driving, 
respecting  the  five 
year,  but  repelled 
iich  the  EngHsh  in- 
ad  been  killed  and 
!  of  suspicion  was 

the  natives  were 
r  dogs,  flesh  of  un« 
e  things,  contained 
lift,  a  girdle,  three 
1  wliich,  beyond  all 
len  lost  in  the  pre« 
recover  them,  they 
ik,  and  paper,  with 
nore  vigorous  mea- 
recover  or  avenge 
Charles .  Jackman, 
es  in  tlie  rear,  and 
Frobisher  with  his 
The  wretches  had 
r;  but  the  invaders, 
tains,  descried  an- 
first  to  belong  to  a 
and  alarm  visible 
owed  that  this  was 
,  hastening  to  their 
a;  and  they  rowed 
baffled  all  pursuit, 
held  the  entrance 
hem.    As  soon  as 


EARLY  NORTH-WEST  VOTAOES. 


157 


they  saw  themselves  thus  beset,  they  landed  among 
the  rocks,  abandoning  their  skiffs,  which  they  hoped 
to  render  useless  by  breaking  the  oars.    The  English 
rushed  on  with  alacrity  to  the  assault;  but  the  na- 
tives,  stationed  on  the  rocks,  resisted  the  landing, 
and  stood  their  ground  with  the  most  savage  and 
desperate   valoim     Overwhelmed  with   clouds  of 
arrows,  they  picked  them  up,  plucking  them  even 
out  of  their  bodies,  and  returned  them  with  fury. 
On    feeling   themselves   mortally   wounded,   they 
plunged  from  the  rocks  i'^*  >  the  sea,  lest  they  sliould 
fall  into  the  hands  of  ti  o  conquerors.     At  length, 
completely  worsted,  and  having  lost  five  or  six  of 
their  number,  they  sprang  up  among  the  chflfs  and 
eluded  pursuit.    There  fell  into  the  liands  of  tlie 
assailants  only  two  females,  who  caused  some  specu- 
lation.   One  was  stricken  in  years,  and  presented  a 
visage  so  singulariy  hideous  as  suggested  to  many  no 
less  a  suspicion  than  that  the  great  enemy  of  man- 
kind stood  before  them  in  person.    Thjs  impression 
gaining  ground,  it  was  resolved  to  apply  a  test  then 
considered  infallible.    Her  buskins  were  plucked  off, 
to  ascertain  if  she  presented  that  peculiar  stucture 
of  the  lower  extremities  supposed  to  characterize 
the  dread  foe  of  the  human  race.    As  this  essential 
character  was  found  wanting,  it  was  merely  deter- 
mined, by  liberating  her,  to  deliver  their  eyes  from 
BO  distressing  a  spectacle.    The  other  female  was 
young,  with  a  child  in  her  arms;  and  being,  from 
her  peculiar  costume,  mistaken  for  a  man,  had  been 
fired  at  and  the  child  wounded.    It  was  in  vain  to 
apply  remedies;  she  licked  off  with  her  tongue  the 
dressings  and  salves,  and  cured  it  in  her  own  way. 
She  and  the  msUe  captive  formerly  taken  looksd 
strange  at  first,  but,  on  biecoming  intimate,  found  much 
comfort  in  each  other's  society,  and  showed  a  strong 
mutual  attachment. 

Frobisher  still  cherished  hopes  of  recovering  his 
men.    A  large  party  appearing  on  the  top  of  a  hjiu, 
O 


108 


KARLY  NORTH-WEST   VOYAaES. 


nignn  were  made  of  a  desire  for  mutual  accommoda- 
tion. A  few  of  them  advanced,  and  were  introduceil 
to  the  captives.  The  parties  were  deeply  affected, 
and  spent  some  time  without  uttering  a  word ;  tears 
then  flowed ;  and  wlien  they  at  hist  found  speech,  it 
was  in  tones  of  tenderness  and  regret,  which  pre- 

Cossessed  the  English  mu'^h  ir  their  favour.  Fro- 
ishcr  now  came  forward  and  propounded,  that  on 
condition  of  restoring  h»^  five  men,  they  should  re- 
ceive back  their  ow  captives,  with  the  addition  of 
sundry  of  those  littic  ^ifts  and  presents  on  whicli  they 
set  the  highest  value.  This  they  promised,  and  also 
to  eonvej  etter  to  the  prisoners.  Doubtless  by 
this  time  tu.;  captives  lived  no  longer,  and  the  natives 
had  no  means  of  amicably  redeeming  their  pledge ; 
but  they  determined,  by  force  or  stratagem,  to  effect 
their  purpose.  Three  men  appeared  holding  up  flags 
of  bladder,  mviting  the  invaders  to  approach;  but  the 
latter,  who  saw  the  heads  of  others  peeping  from 
behind  the  rpcks,  resolved  to  proceed  with  the  utmost 
caution.  The  natives  began  by  placing  in  view  large 
pieces  of  excellent  meat ;  and  wh;;n  their  enemy  comd 
not  be  caught  by  that  bait,  a  man  advanced  very  close, 
feigning  lameness,  and  seeming  to  offer  himself  an 
easy  prey.  Frobis)ier  allowed  a  shot  to  be  fired,  by 
which  the  person  was  cured  at  once,  and  took  to  hiar 
heels.  Seeing  all  their  artifices  fail,  the  barbarians 
determined  upon  main  force,  and  pouring  down  to 
the  number  of  a  hundied,  discharged  their  arrows 
with  the  utmost  fury.  They  even  followed  a  con- 
siderable way  along  the  coast,  regardless  of  the 
English  shot ;  but  the  vessels  meanwhile  were  too 
distant  from  the  shore  io  suffer  the  slightest  annoy- 
ance. Several  of  the  seamen  importuned  Frobisher 
to  allow  them  to  land  and  attack ;  but  this  he  refused, 
as  only  calculated  to  divert  them  from  the  main 
object,  and  to  cause  useless  bloodshed. 

The  21st  of  August  had  now  arrived,  the  ice  was 
beginning  to  form  around  the  ships,  and,  though  little 


'  VOYAQES. 

r  mutual  accommoda- 
[,  aiid  were  introducei] 
were  deeply  aflected, 
ttering  a  word ;  tears 
t  last  found  speech,  it 
id  regret,  which  pre- 
:  their  favour.  I'ro- 
.  propounded,  that  on 
men,  they  should  ro- 
with  the  addition  of 
resents  on  which  they 
ey  promised,  and  also 
)ner8.  Doubtless  by 
ingcT,  and  the  natives 
icmiuj^  their  pledge; 
ir  stratagem,  to  effect 
;ared  holding  up  flaga 
I  to  approach;  but  tlie 
others  peeping  from 
iceed  with  the  utmost 
placing  in  view  large 
vjii  their  enemy  coiud 
advanced  very  close, 
',  to  offer  himself  an 
a  shot  to  be  fired,  by 
once,  and  took  to  hiar 
I  fail,  the  barbarian* 
nd  pouring  down  to 
harged  their  arrows 
ven  followed  a  con- 
t,  regardless  of  the 
meanwhile  were  too 
the  slightest  annoy- 
nportuned  Frobisher 
;  but  this  he  refused, 
lem  from  the  main 
3dshed. 

arrived,  the  ice  was 
ips,  and,  though  little 


EABLY   NORTH-WESf  TOYAOES. 


ISO 


Krogress  had  been  made  towards  China,  the  seamen 
ad  put  on  board  two  hundred  tons  of  the  precious 
ore.  They  therefore  mounted  the  highest  hill,  fired 
a  vollcjf  in  honour  of  the  Countess  of  Warwick,  and 
made  their  way  home. 

Notwithstanding  the  vicissitudes  whichhad  marked 
this  voyage,  its  arrival  was  hailed  with  the  utmost 
exultation.  Knthusiiism  and  hope,  both  with  the 
queen  and  the  nation,  rose  higher  than  ever.  The 
delusion  of  the  golden  ore  continued  in  full  fonie,  and 
caused  those  desolate  shores  to  be  regarded  as 
another  Peru.  Special  conunissioners,  men  of  judg- 
ment, art,  and  skill,  were  named  by  her  majesty  to 
ascertain  both  the  quality  of  the  ore  and  the  pros- 
pects of  the  voyage  to  India.  After  due  inquiry,  a 
most  favourable  report  was  made  on  both  subjects, 
and  it  was  recommended  not  only  that  a  new  expe- 
dition on  a  great  scale,  should  be  fitted  out,  but  a 
colony  established  on  that  remote  coast,  wlio  might 
at  once  be  placed  in  full  possession  of  its  treasures, 
and  be  on  the  watch  for  every  opportunity  of  farther 
discovery.  To  brave  the  winter  of  the  Polar  world 
was  a  novel  and  daring  enterprise ;  yet  such  was  then 
the  national  spirit,  that  the  appointed  number  of  a 
hundred  was  quickly  filled  up.  There  were  forty 
mariners,  thirty  miners,  and  thirty  soldiers,  in  which 
last  number  were  oddly  included,  not  only  gentlemen, 
but  gold-finers,  bakers,  and  carpenters.  Materials 
were  sent  on  board  the  vessels,  which,  on  being  put 
together,  might  be  converted  into  a  fort  or  house. 
The  squadron  fitted  out  was  the  largest  that  had  yet 
adventured  to  plough  the  northern  deep.  H  consisted 
of  fifteen  vessels,  furnished  by  various  ports,  espe- 
cially by  those  of  the  west,  and  the  rendezvous  took 
place  at  Harwich  on  the  27th  May,  1578,  whence  they 
■ailed  on  the  31st.  The  captains  waited  on  tho 
queen  at  Greenwich,  and  were  personally  addressed 
by  her  in  the  most  gracious  manner ;  Frobisher  re- 
ceiving a  chain  of  gold,  and  the  honour  of  kissing 
her  majesty's  band 


100 


EARLY  NORTH-WKST   VOTAOE0. 


Occasion  was  formerly  taken  to  observe,  that  ex- 
peditions got  up  on  the  (freatest  scale,  and  with  the 
most  ample  means,  usually  proved  the  most  Bnfortu- 
nate.    A  larffe  and  encumbered  fleet  was  ill  calculated 
to  steer  tlirough  the  ice-entangled  straits,  and  amid 
the  mightv  mountains  which  were  floating  over  the 
northern  deep.     On  reaching  the  Queen's  Foreland, 
at  »he  openuig  of  Frobisher's  Strait,  the  navigators 
found  It  frozen  over  from  side  to  side,  and  barred,  as 
It  were,  with  Huccessive  walls,  mountains,  and  bul- 
warks.   A  strong  easterly  wind  had  driven  numerous 
icebergs  upon  the  coast,  and  hence  the  navigation 
annd  these  huge  moving  bodies  soon  became  most 
perilous.    The  Dennis,  a  large  vessel,  on  board  of 
w.::;.:.  was  part  of  ihe  projected  house,  received  such 
a  tremendous  blow  from  a  mountain  of  ice,  that  it 
wentdown  instantly,  though  theother8hipH,hastening 
to  its  aid,  succeeded  in  saving  the  men.    This  specta- 
cle struck  panic  into  the  other  crews,  who  felt  that 
the  same  fate  migtit  next  moment  be  their  own.    The 
danger  was  much  augmented  when  the  gale  increased 
to  a  tempest,  and  the  icy  masses,  tossing  in  every 
direction,  struck  furiously  against  the  aides  of  the 
vessels.    Invention  was  now  variously  at  work  to 
find  means  ot  safety.    Some  moored  themselves  to 
these  floating  islands,  and  being  carried  about  along 
with  them,  escaped  the  outrageous  blows  which  they 
must  otherwise  have  encountered.     Others  held  sus- 
pended by  tlie  sides  of  the  ship  oars,  planks,  pikes, 
poles,  every  thing  by  which  the  violence  of  the  shocks 
might  be  broken ;  yet  the  ice,  "aided  by  the  surging 
of  the  sea  and  billow,"  was  seen  to  break  in  pieces 
Blanks  three  inches  thick.    Frobisher  considers  it  as 
ledoundmg  highly  to  the  glory  of  his  poor  miners 
and  landsmen,  wholly  unused  to  such  a  scene,  that 
mey  faced  with  heroism  the  assembled  dangers  that 
oesieged  them  round.    «  At  length,  it  pleased  God 
with  his  eyes  of  mercy  to  look  down  from  heaven," 
—a  brisk  south-west  wind  dispersed  the  ice,  and 
gave  them  an  open  sea  through  which  to  navigate. 


VOTAOEI. 

to  observe,  that  ez< 
scale,  and  with  the 
ed  the  most  mirortu- 
net  was  ill  calculated 
ed  straits,  and  amid 
te  floating  over  the 
i  Queen's  Foreland, 
trait,  the  navigators 
)  side,  and  barred,  as 
mountains,  and  buN 
lad  driven  numerous 
ence  the  navigation 
soon  became  most 
vessel,  on  board  of 
louse,  received  such 
itain  of  ice,  that  it 
Ihcrships.hasteningf 
men.    This  specta- 
rews,  who  felt  that 
be  their  own.    The 
n  the  gale  increased 
3,  tossing  in  every 
St  the  sides  of  the 
iriously  at  work  to 
)ored  themselves  to 
carried  about  along 
;s  blows  which  they 
.     Others  held  sus- 
)ar8,  planks,  pikes, 
ilence  of  the  shocks 
ided  by  the  surging 
to  break  in  pieces 
sher  considers  it  as 
jf  his  poor  miners 
such  a  scene,  that 
nbled  dangers  that 
th,  it  pleased  God 
)wn  from  heaven," 
^rsed  the  ice,  and 
hich  to  navigate. 


KARLV  NORTll-WfiST  VOVAOES. 

After  a  few  days  spent  in  repairing  the  vessels,  and 
su^,)pmg  up  the  lesiks,  Frobisher  bent  afresh  all  his 
efforts  to  wnetrato  inward  to  the  spot  where  he  was 
to  lound  his  colony.    After  considorablo  effort,  he 
mad.;  ins  way  into  the  strait,  when  he  discovered  that 
lie  was  sailing  iMstween  two  coasts;  but  amid  the 
gloomy  mists,  and  the  thick  snow  wliirh  fell  ii.    liis 
northern  midsummer,  nothing  could  bo  distii     |y 
seen.    As,  however,  clear  intervals  oc(  asionally  oc- 
curred,  affording  partial  glimpses  of  the  land,  tlie 
surmise  arose,  that  this  was  not  the  shore  along 
which  they  had  formerly  sailed.    Frobisher  would 
not  listen  to  a  suggestion  which  would  have  con- 
victed him  of  having  thrown  away  much  of  his  time 
and  labour.     He  still  pressed  onward.    Once  the 
manners  imagined  they  saw  Mount  Warwick,  but 
were  soon  undeceived.    At  length,  Christopher  Hall, 
ctuef  pilot,  stood  up  and  declared,  in  hearing  of  all 
the  crew,  that  he  never  saw  tliis  coast  before.    Fro- 
bisher still  persevered,  sailing  along  a  country  more 
populous,  more  verdant,  and  better  stocked  with  birds, 
than  the  one  formerly  visited.     In  fact,  «his  was  pro- 
liably  the  main  entrance  into  Hudson's  B,iy,  by  con- 
tinuing m  which  he  would  have  made  the  most  impor- 
taut  discoveries.    But  all  his  ideas  of  mineral  wealth 
and  successful  passage  were  associated  with  the  old 
strait;  and,  on  being  obliged  to  own  that  this  was  a 
diflerent  one,  he  turned  back  to  the  open  sea.    In  this 
retreat  the  fleet  was  so  involved  in  fogs  and  violent 
currents,  and  so  beset  with  rocks  and  islands,  that 
the  sailors  considered  it  only  by  a  special  interposition 
?L  ™^u''^"^^i^^'  "'"y  w"«  brought  out  in  safety. 
When  they  had  reached  ths  open  sea,  and  arrived  at 
the  mouth  of  the  desired  strait,  it  was  almost  as 
diJhciilt  to  find  an  entrance.    However,  Frobisher 
was  constantly  on  the  watch,  and  wherever  there 
appeared  any  opening,  it  is  said  "he  got  in  at  one 
gap  and  out  at  another,"  till  at  length  he  reached  his 
purposed  haven  in  tne  depths  of  the     -rUi.    Before 
03 


II 


189 


BAKLV   NORTII-WXST   VOYAOS*. 


howpyer,  the  crows  were  completely  landed  and  «a. 
tablished,  the  9th  of  August  had  come,  thick  snows 
were  faUin«r,  luid  it  b«-hooved  them  to  hold  a  solemn 
consultation  as  to  the  prospects  of  the  projected 
colony.  There  remained  of  the  house  only  the  ma- 
t6riiil8  of  the  8<Mith  and  east  sides;  the  rest  had  either 
ffone  down  in  the  Dennis,  or  had  been  shattered  into 
fragmenU  while  suspended  from  the  sides  of  the 
ships  to  meet  the  strokes  of  the  ice.  Great  part  of 
the  bread  had  been  8[M)iled,  an«l  the  liquors  had  sus- 
tained a  woful  leakage ;  in  short  there  v^as  no  ade. 
quate  provision  for  a  hundred  men  during  a  whole 
year.  Captain  Fenton  of  the  Judith  inde.?d  suggested, 
that  what  remained  of  the  house  might  bo  formed 
into  a  hut  for  sixty  men,  with  whom  ho  undertook  to 
brave  the  northern  winter ;  but  the  carpenters,  being 
conrtilted,  declared  that  such  a  structure  could  not 
lie  erected  in  less  than  two  months,  while  their 
utmost  possible  stay  would  be  twenty-six  days. 
tte,nouncing  the,  idea  of  settlement,  Froblsher  still 
asked  his  captains  whether  they  might  not,  during 
the  short  remnining  interval,  attempt  some  discovery 
to  throw  a  redeeming  lustre  on  this  luckless  voyage  i 
but,  in  reply,  they  urged  the  advanced  season,  the 
symptoms  of  winter  already  approaching,  and  the 
danger  of  being  enclosed  in  these  narrow  Inlets, 
where  they  would  be  in  the  most  imminent  danger 
of  perishing,— in  short,  that  nothing  was  now  to  l»e 
thought  of  but  a  speedy  return  homeward.  This 
was  effected,  not  witliout  the  dispersion  of  the  fleet, 
and  considerable  damage  to  some  of  the  vessels. 
These  voyages  contain  notices  of  the  country  and 

Jiople^  which  strikingly  agree  wjth  those  collected 
y  recent  navigators.  This  Meta  Incognita,  which 
jicludes  only  the  countries  bordering  upon  the  en- 
rances  of  Hudson's  Bay,  is  considered  as  a  cluster 
of  large  islands  lying  thick  together,  and  separated 
6y  narrow  inlets,— an  idea,  perhaps,  not  so  unfounded 
aa  was  for  some  time  supposed.    These  provinces 


tely  landfld  and  «•• 
come,  thick  snowi 
m  to  hold  a  loletnn 
8  of  the  projected 
house  only  the  ma- 
;  the  rcHt  had  either 
been  shattered  into 
I  the  Rides  of  the 
ice.  Great  part  of 
he  liquors  had  siis^ 
I  there  v^aa  no  ade> 
len  duhni;  awliole 
:h  inde.'d  su^ircsted, 
B  might  be  formed 
om  ho  undertook  to 
e  carpenters,  being 
itru«-ture  could  not 
onths,  while  their 

twenty-six  days, 
pnt,  Frobjshcr  still 
might  not,  during 
npt  some  discovery 
is  luckless  voyage } 
k'anccd  season,  the 
preaching,  and  the 
ese  narrow  Inlets, 
;  imminent  danger 
ing  was  now  to  lie 
homeward.  This 
lersion  of  the  fleet, 
I  of  the  vessels, 
of  the  country  and 
ith  those  collected 
1  Incognita,  which 
ering  upon  the  en- 
idered  as  a  cluster 
her,  and  separated 
8,  not  so  unrounded 

These  provinces 


XARtT  NORTH-WEST   TOTAOKS. 


169 


consist  of  mountains  and  high  lands  covered  with 
mow,  even  in  the  midst  of  summer;  and  it  appeared 
Tery  surprising  to  And  in  latitude  60°  and  f  1°  a  cold 
much  more  intense  than  at  the  North  Cape  and  Ward- 
hnys  in  latitude  72°.    The  people  are  dcsiribed  as 
of  npe-ohve  complexion,  with  long  black  hair,  broad 
aces,  and  flat  noses,  much  resembling  Tartars,  or, 
more  strictly,  Samoiede8,to  whom,  accortiing  to  tho 
best  mformation  Frobisher  could  obtain,  thev  were 
also  similar  in  their  habits  of  life.    The  land  could 
scarcely  yield  either  grain  or  fruit,  and  the  people 
made  no  attempt  to  cultivate  them,  eating  merely 
shrube  and  grass,  "even  as  our  kine  do;"  or,  as 
Kettle  expresses  it,  "such  grass  as  the  country  pro- 
duceth  they  pluck  up  and  eat,  not  daintily  or  sallad- 
wise,  but  like  brute  beasts  devouring  the  same."    In 
other  respeiits,  he  observes,  they  seek  "by  their 
hunting,  fishing,  and  fowling,  to  satisfy  their  greedy 
paunches,  which  is  their  only  glory."    They  use 
neither  scat,  table,  nor  cloth;  but  "when  they  are 
imbrued  with  blood,  knuckle  deep,  they  use  their 
wngues  as  apt  instruments  to  lick  them  clean." 
From  the  manner  in  which,  to  the  great  disirust  of 
the  beholders,  they  devoured  their  meat  in  the  most 
loathsome  and  putrid  state,  without  any  cookery 
or  preparation,  an  inference  is  somewhat  rashly 
drawn,  that  they  would  not  make  the  least  hesita- 
tion  m  partaking  of  human  flesh.    Frobisher  could 
observe  only  their  summer-houses,  which  are  de- 
scribed  ixs  poor  caves,  like  ovens,  having  holes  like 
a  fox  or  coney  burrow,  formed  of  pieces  of  whalebone 
meetmgr  at  top,  and  covered  with  seal-skin,  and  in 
the  mside  of  which,  by  strewing  moss,  they  formed 
nests  to  sleep  on.    At  the  same  time  they  were  found 
to  be  sharp-witted,  and  showed,  by  signs,  great  readi- 
?#  *lf°     *o  understand  and  reply  to  the  English. 
If  they  could  give  no  information  on  any  subject, 
they  shut  their  eyes;  if  they  did  not  comprehend 
what  was  said  to  them,  they  stopped  their  ears.  They 


^sifes^s^aa^g^^g^s^gis^^^--'' 


164 


KARLY  NORTH-WEST  VOTAOES. 


took  the  greatest  delight  in  music ;  repeating  an^ 
keeping  time  to  any  tune  wth  voice,  head,  hand,  and 
,  °ir  "^^^^  daita,  arrows,  and  other  weapons  were 
skilfully  contrived,  and  used  with  a  courage  amount, 
mg  even  to  desperation,  of  which  repeated  instances 
have  been  given.    Their  little  boats  of  skin  (kayak) 


were  moved  by  one  oar,  with  a  swiftness  which  no 
English  sailor  coidd  match.  Their  astonishment 
at  European  objects  appeared  particularly  when 
one  of  them  was  shown  his  visage  in  a  mirror. 
"  He  was  upon  the  sudden  much  amazed  thereat, 
and,  beholding  advisedly  the  same  with  silence  a  good 
while,  at  length  began  to  question  with  him  as  with 
his  companion ;  and  finding  him  dumb,  seemed  to 
suspect  him  as  one  disdainful,  and  would  have  grown 
into  choler ;  until  at  last,  by  feeling  and  handling,  he 
found  the  deceit,  and  then,  with  great  noise  and  cries, 
ceased  not  wondering,  thinking  that  we  could  make 
men  live  and  die  at  our  pleasure."  There  were 
great  signs  of  mutual  attachment,  especially  between 
the  male  and  female  captive,  who  were  brought  home 
on  the  second  voyage.  She  killed  and  dressed  the 
dogs  for  him,  and  tended  him  carefully  when  S'.ck, 
Mfhile  he  picked  out  the  sweetest  and  fattest  moraels 
and  laid  them  before  her ;  yet  they  lived  entirely  as 
brother  and  sister  -without  the  slightest  impropriety. 
Our  naval  recoids  do  not  inform  us  of  the  feelings 
excited  ia  ilie  nation  by  tlie  return  from  this  hard, 


t'tiWHUHMWy'llillii.);)^ 


V0TAGE8.  ^ 

nusic ;  repeating  an^ 
oice,  head,  hand,  and 
other  weapons  were 
th  a  courajre  amount. 
;h  repeated  instances 
oats  of  skin  (kayak) 


swiftness  which  no 
Their  astonishment 
.  particularly  when 
visage  in  a  mirror, 
ich  amazed  thereat, 
e  with  silence  a  good 
on  with  him  as  with 
m  dumb,  seemed  to 
id  would  have  grown 
ling  and  handling,  he 
freat  noise  and  cries, 
that  we  could  make 
ure."  There  were 
t,  especially  between 
)  were  brought  home 
led  and  dressed  the 
arefuUy  when  s'.ck, 
t  and  fattest  moraels 
ley  lived  entirely  as 
lightest  impropriety, 
m  us  of  the  feelings 
^uru  from  this  hard, 


DARLT  K0RTH-WE8T  TOTAOES. 


165 


peiilous,  and  abortive  voyage.    The  failure  of  sue- 
cessive  attempts,  and  especially  of  one  got  up  with 
so  much  cost  and  circumstance,  probably  produced 
Its  usual  effect  of  lassitude  and  despondence.    The 
ghttenng  stone,  which  ^as  to  have  converted  this 
northern  Meta  mto  another  Peru,  was  never  more 
heard  of;  a  few  careful  assays  having  doubtless 
established  its  utter  insignificance.    Frobisher  re- 
commended  strongly  the  trial  of  the  first  mistaken 
inlet  which  he  had  entered,  as  being,  m  comparison 
ot  tiie  other,  broader,  more  patent,  and  every  way 
more  promising;  but  the  people  could  by  no  means 
be  roused  to  any  farther  efforts.    He  was  obliged  to 
seek  m  other  climates  employment  for  his  daring 
and  active  spirit.     He  accompanied  Sir  Francis 
JJrake  to  the  West  Indies ;  he  commanded  one  of 
Uie  largest  ships  m  the  armament  which  opposed  the 
Spanish  armada,  and  fought  with  such  bravery,  that 
he  was  decorated  with  the  honours  of  knighthood. 
Being  afterward  sent  to  assist  Henry  IV.  against 
the  League,  and  employed  in  the  attack  of  a  small 
fort  on  the  coast  of  France,  he  received  a  wound 
from  a  baU,  which,  through  unskilful  treatment, 
proved  fatal  in  November,  1594.  ' 

Seven  years  after  Frobisher's  last  voyage,  the  spirit 
of  the  nation  was  agam  roused.  Divers  opulent  mer- 
chants  of  London  and  of  the  west  determined  to  "  cast 
in  their  adventure ;"  and,  leaving  wholly  out  of  view 
the  delusive  hopes  of  gold  which  had  misled  Frobisher. 
directed  theirs  entirely  to  the  discovery  of  a  passage 
to  India.  They  fitted  out  two  vessels,  the  sSnsW^ 
and  Moonshine,  of  60  and  35  tons  respectively,  which 
were  placed  under  the  command  of  John  Davis  a 
steady  and  determined  seaman,  endowed  also  with  a 
large  portion  of  courtesy  and  good-humour,  by  which 
he  was  likely  to  render  himself  acceptable  to  the 
rude  natives  of  those  inhospitable  shores:  to  pro. 
mote  which  laudable  purpose,  he  was  provided  not 
onJy  with  a  supply  of  the  trifling  gifts  suited  to  theii 


166 


EARLY  NORTH-WSST'VOVAaBB. 


taste,  but  with  a  band  of  music  to  cheer  and  recreate 
their  spirits.  This  being  a  western  naviaration,  Da- 
vis, on  the  7th  June,  1585,  set  sail  from  Dartmouth. 
On  the  19th  July,  as  the  seamen  approached  the 
Arctic  boundary,  they  heard,  amid  a  calm  sea  beset 
with  thick  mist,  a  mighty  roaring,  as  of  the  wave? 
dasliing  on  a  rocky  shore.  The  soundings  gave  300 
fathoms;  however,  the  captam  and  master  pushed 
off  in  the  boat  to  examine  this  supposed  beach,  but 
were  much  surprised  to  find  themselves  involved 
amid  numerous  itMjbergs,  while  all  this  noise  had 
been  caused  by  the  rolling  and  beating  of  these  masses 
against  each  other.  Davis  landed  on  some  of  these 
islands,  and  broke  off  pieces  of  ice,  which,  being 
carried  to  the  ship,  were  converted  into  good  water. 
Next  day  he  came  in  view  of  the  soutli-westem 
coast  of  Greenland,  which  appeared  the  most  dreary 
and  desolate  ever  seen ;  "  deformed,  rocky,  and 
mountainous,  like  a  sugar-loaf,  standing  to  our  sight 
above  the  clouds.  It  towered  above  the  fog  like  a 
white  list  in  the  sky,  the  tops  altogether  covered 
Avith  snow,  the  shore  beset  with  ice,  making  such 
irksome  noise  that  it  was  called  the  Land  of  Desola- 
tion" The  water  on  this  coast  was  black  and  thick, 
like  a  stf  nding  pool,  and  though  they  saw  many 
seals  floating,  and  birds  beating  upon  the  wat«r, 
none  could  be  caught. 

After  sailing  for  several  days  along  this  dreary 
shore,  without  being  able  to  approach  on  account  of 
the  ice,  Davis  pushed  out  north-westward  into  the 
open  sea,  hoping  in  "  God's  mercy  to  find  our  de- 
sired passage."  On  the  29ih  he  came  in  view  of  a 
land  in  64°  north  latitude,  which  was  still  only  Green- 
land ;  but  as  the  wind  was  unfavourable  for  proceed- 
ing westward,  the  air  temperate,  and  the  coast  free 
from  ice,  he  resolved  to  go  on  shore  and  take  a  view 
of  the  country  and  people.  In  the  company  of  two 
others,  he  landed  on  an  island,  leaving  directions  {jt 
the  rest  to  follow  as  soon  as  they  should  hear  any 


TOYA«3E8. 

to  cheer  and  recreate 
item  navigation,  Da- 
sail  from  Dartmouth. 
tien  approached  the 
nid  a  calm  sea  beset 
ing,  as  of  the  waves 
I  soundings  gave  300 
and  master  pushed 
supposed  beach,  but 
hemselves  involved 
!  all  this  noise  had 
ating  of  these  masses 
ed  on  some  of  these 
jf  ice,  which,  being 
ted  into  good  water, 
f  the  soutli-western 
ired  the  most  dreary 
formed,  rocky,  and 
standing  to  our  sight 
above  the  fog  like  a 
altogether  covered 
;h  ice,  making  such 
the  Land  ofDeaola- 
was  black  and  thick, 
gh  they  saw  many 
jg  upon  the  wat«r, 

s  along  this  dreary 
roach  on  account  of 
h-westward  into  tlie 
ercy  to  find  our  de- 
e  came  in  view  of  a 
ivas  still  only  Green- 
ourable  for  proceed- 
3,  and  the  coast  free 
lore  and  lake  a  view 
the  company  of  two 
saving  directions  f::»r 
ey  should  hear  any 


SARtT  NORTH-WEST  VOTAOES. 


167 


loud  signal.    The  party  mounted  the  top-of  a  lock, 
whence  they  were  espied  by  the  natives,  wlio  raised 
a  lamentable  noise,  with  loud  outcries  like  the  howl- 
ing of  wolves.    Davis  and  his  comrades  hereupon 
struck  up  a  high  note,  so  modulated,  that  it  mifht  at 
once  be  allurmg  to  the  natives,  and  might  summon 
nis  own  crew  to  deeds  either  of  courtesy  or  valour. 
Burton,  the  master,  and  others,  hastened,  well  armed, 
yet  with  the  band  of  music  playing,  and  dancing  to 
It  with  the  most  invithig  signs  of  friendship.    In  ac- 
cordance  with  this  gay  summons,  ten  canoes  hastened 
from  the  other  islands,  and  the  people  crowded  round 
the  strangers,  iittering  in  a  hollow  voice  miintelligi- 
We  sounds.    The  English  continued  their  friendly 
salutations,  while  the  other  party  still  showed  jea- 
lousy,  till  at  length  one  of  them  began  pointing  to- 
wards the  sun  and  beating  his  breast.    These  signs 
being  returned  by  John  Ellis,  master  of  the  Moon- 
shine, the  natives  were  induced  to  approacli;  and 
being  presented  with  caps,  stockings,  gloves,  and 
whatever  the  navigators  had,  and  continuing  to  be 
hailed  with  music  and  dancing,  their  fears  g;ive  place 
to  the  most  cordial  amity.    Next  day  there  appeared 
thirty-seven  canoes;  the  people  froni  which  kindly  in- 
vited the  English  on  shore,  showing  eager  impatience 
at  their  delay.    Davis  manned  his  boats  and  went  to 
them;  one  of  them  shook  hands  with  him,  and  kissed  his 
hand,  and  the  two  parties  became  extremely  familiar. 
The  natives  parted  with  every  thing,  the  clothes  froni 
off  their  backs,  consisting  of  seal-skins  and  birds' 
skms  with  the  feathers  on  them,  their  buskins  of 
well-dressed  leather,  their  darts,  oar^,  and  five  canoes, 
accepting  cheerfully  in  return  whatever  their  nev 
visiters  chose  to  present;  and  they  kindly  aided  eacU 
ether  under  the  privations  thus  occasioned.    Tht^ 
offered  to  return  next  day  with  an  ample  store  of 
furs  and  skins,  wliich  they  saw  the  foreig^itrs  value 
so  highly;  but  a  favourable  breeze  sprin|,nng  ur., 
Davis  very  properly  determined  to  alloAv  uolliiiii;  tu 


168 


EARtV  NORTH-WEST  TOTAOCS. 


Interfere  whh  his  schemes  of  discovery.  He  steered 
directly  across  the  strait,  or  rather  sea,  which  still 
bears  his  own  name.  On  the  6th  Au^st  he  disco, 
vered  liign  land,  which  he  named  Mount  Raleiffh, 
beiiif?  part  of  Cumberland  Island.  Here,  anchoring 
in  a  fine  road,  the  seamen  saw  three  white  animals, 
which  seemed  to  be  goats.  Desirous  of  fresh  vic- 
tuals and  sport,  they  pursued  them,  but  discovered 
mstead  three  monstrous  white  bears.  The  animals 
rushed  on,  fearless  and  furious,  till  being  received 
with  several  baUs,  they  retreated,  apparently  not 
much  hurt,  but  were  followed  and  at  last  killed. 
There  appeared  no  symptoms  of  their  having  fed  on 
any  thing  except  grass;  but  it  was  necessary  to  clear 
away  a  very  large  quantity  of  fat  before  the  flesh 
could  be  eaten. 

Davis,  after  coasting  about  for  some  days,  agaiir 
found  himself  at  the  cape  which  he  had  at  first 
reached  on  his  crossing  from  the  opposite  shore  of 
Greenland.  This  promontory,  which  he  called  God's 
Mercy,  he  now  turned,  when  he  found  himself  in  a 
sound  stretching  north-westward,  twenty  or  thirty 
leagues  broad,  free  from  ice,  and  its  waters  having' 
the  colour  and  quality  of  the  main  ocean.  After 
Mcendmg  jt  sixty  leagues,  he  found  an  island  in 
the  mid-channel,  which  still,  however,  afforded 
an  open  passage,  so  that  his  hopes  daily  increased. 
About  the  end  of  August,  however,  being  involved 
in  fogs  and  contrary  winds,  he  determined  to  sus- 
pend  operations  for  this  season  and  return  to  Ens- 
laud.  * 

Onono  of  the  islands  in  this  sound  the  seamen 
,r ,-,    ^  "owlmg,  and  saw  twenty  approach,  of 

wolf-hke  appearance,  but  in  most  peaceful  guise. 

Impressed,  however,  with  the  idea  that  only  animals 

?^,^7,  ^j""^*^  ^^  '"""'*  o"  *^ese  shores,  they  fiied 
and  killed  two,  rottnd  one  of  whose  necks  they  found 
a  collar,  and  soon  after  discovered  the  sledge  to  which 
he  hau  been  yoked.    Davis  saw  on  tliis  voyage  abun- 


"^[^ 


>M^-^ 


rOTAOES. 

covery.  He  steered 
ther  sea,  which  still 
ith  August  he  disco- 
led  Mount  Raleigh, 
d.  Here,  anchoring 
hree  white  anim&ls, 
sirous  of  fresh  vic- 
fiem,  but  discovered 
ears.  The  animals 
,  till  being  received 
ted,  apparently  not 
and  at  last  killed. 
■  their  having  fed  on 
iH  necessary  to  clear 
fat  before  the  flesh 

•r  some  days,  agaiir 
lich  he  had  at  first 
lie  opposite  shore  of 
hich  he  called  God's 

found  himself  in  a 
•d,  twenty  or  thirty 
d  its  waters  having 
main  ocean.  After 
found  an  island  in 

however,  afforded 
pes  daily  increased. 
!ver,  being  involved 

determined  to  sus- 
and  return  to  Eng- 

sound  the  seamen 
(venty  approach,  of 
ost  peaceful  guise. 
5a  that  only  animals 
e  shores,  they  fiied 
ise  necks  they  found 
1  the  sledge  to  which 
)u  tills  voyage  abun- 


EA-ILY  N0RTH-V'£8T   TOTAOES. 


109 


dance  of  the  jlack  and  glittering  stone  of  Frobish-'r, 
and  many  of  the  rocks  appeared  "  orient  like  gold;" 
but  httle  attention  was  now  excited  by  these  delusive 
appearances. 

Although  no   ling  was  actually  done  by  tliis  expe- 
dition, yet  the    Itimate  views  which  it  had  opened 
to  Uavis  inspii    i  sanguine  hopes,  and  facilitated  the 
equipment  of  a   -esh  expedition.    To  the  slender  ar- 
mament  of  thi    Sunshine  and  Moonshine  was  now 
added  the  Mem    id  of  120  tons,  with  a  boat  or  pin- 
nace.   Davis  sa  ed  from  Dartmouth  on  the  7th  May, 
and  on  the  15th    une  came  in  view  of  the  southern 
extrem'y   of  Greenland;   but,    owing    to   severe 
storms,  it  was  the  29th  before  he  reached  the  land 
formerly  visited  in  lat.  640.     As  the  English  ap- 
Prpached,  the  natives  came  out  in  their  canoes  at  fiist 
with  shouts  and  cries ;  but,  recognising  their  com- 
panions of  the  former  year,  they  hastened  forward, 
and  hung  round  the  vessel  with  every  expression  of 
jov  and  welcome.    Davis,  seeing  them  in  such  fa- 
vourable dispositions,  went  ashore  and  distributed  in 
presents  twenty  knives,  refusing  the  oflbr  of  skins  in 
return.    The  most  intimate  acquaintance  was  now 
oegufi ;  yet  they  never  met  the  strangers  anew  with- 
out  cmng,  "iZ?ao«<.'"  beating  their  breasts  and  lifting 
their  hands  to  the  sun,  by  which  a  fresh  treaty  was 
ratified.     The  'wo  parties  amused  themselves  by 
contests  m  bodily  exercises.    The  Esquimaux  could 
not  match  their  opponents  in  leaping ;  but  in  wres- 
tling they  showed  themselves  strong  and  skilful,  and 
threw  some  of  the  best  Englisli  wrestlers.    By  de- 
^es  they  began  to  manifest  less  laudable  qualities. 
rhey  exercised    many  and  solemn  incantations, 
though,  Davis  thanks  God,  without  any  effect.    They 
kindled  a  fire  by  rubbing  two  sticks  against  each 
other,  and  invited  him  10  pass  thrcugh  it ;  but  he, 
in  contempt  of  their  sorcery,  caused  the  fire  to  be 
trodden  out,  and  the  embers  thrown  into  the  sea. 
The  natives  showed  soon  a  much  more  inconvenient 
P 


170 


SARLT  NORTR-WEBT   VOTAOXB. 


propensity  to  appropriate  eveiy  article,  especially 
iron,  which  came  under  their  notice.  Perhaps  it  was 
imprudent  ever  to  have  made  presents,  thus  suff- 
gesting  the  idea,  which  does  not  seem  to  have  be- 
fore entered  their  minds,  that  any  thing  could  be 
obtained  without  an  equivalent.  However,  they 
soon  reached  the  highest  pitch  of  audacity;  they 
Rtole  a  spear,  a  gun,  a  sword,  cut  the  cables,  and 
even  the  Moonshine's  boat  from  her  stem.  The 
leading  personages  of  the  crew  remonstrated  with 
Davis,  that  for  their  security  he  must  "  dissolve  this 
new  friendship,  and  leave  the  company  of  those 
thievish  miscreants."  Davis  fired  two  pieces  over 
their  heads,  v  hich  "  did  sore  amaze  them,"  and  they 
fled  precipitatt'ly.  But  in  ten  hours  they  again  ap- 
peared with  many  promises  and  presents  of  skins ; 
when,  on  seeing  iron,  "  they  could  in  nowise  forbear 
stealing."  The  commander  was  again  besieged  with 
the  complaints  of  his  crew ;  ho\vcver,  "  it  only  mi- 
nistered to  him  an  occasion  of  laughter,"  and  he  bid 
his  men  look  vijrilantly  to  the  safety  of  their  own 
goods,  and  Dot  deal  hardly  with  the  natives,  who 
could  sinrcely  be  expected  in  so  short  a  time  " to 
know  their  evils." 

Davis  now  undertook  an  expedition  to  observe 
somewhat  of  the  interior.  He  sailed  up  what  ap- 
peared a  broad  river,  but  which  proved  only  a  strait 
or  creek.  A  violent  gust  of  wind  having  obUged  him 
to  seek  the  shelter  of  land,  he  attempted  to  ascend 
a  very  lofty  peak;  but  "the  mountains  were  so 
many  and  so  mighty,  that  his  purpose  prevailed  not." 
While  the  men  were  g.nhering  muscles  for  supper, 
he  was  amused  by  viewing  for  the  first  time  in  his 
life,  a  water-spout,  which  he  describes  as  a  mighty 
whirlwind  taking  up  the  water  and  whirling  it  round 
for  three  hours  without  intermission.  Nexl  day  lie 
re-embarked,  and  penetrated  higher  up  the  channel 
but  was  surprised  to  find,  instead  of  the  huge  uii 
biokcn  contuient  which  he  had  supposed,  onlv  wasti 


rOTAOSB. 

T  article,  especially 
:e.  Perhaps  it  was 
)re8ent8,  thus  suff- 
;  seem  to  have  be- 
iny  thing  could  be 
;.  However,  they 
of  audacity;  they 
ut  the  cables,  and 
n  her  stem.  The 
remonstrated  with 
nust "  dissolve  this 
company  of  those 
id  two  pieces  over 
ize  them,"  and  they 
urs  they  again  ap- 
presents  of  skins; 
d  in  nowise  forbear 
again  besieged  with 
^•cver,  "  it  only  mi- 
ughter,"  and  he  bid 
ifety  of  their  own 
I  the  natives,  who 
I  short  a  time  "  to 

edition  to  observe 
lailed  up  what  ap- 
roved  only  a  strait 
having  obliged  him 
tempted  to  ascend 
lountains  were  so 
)ose  prevailed  not." 
luscles  for  supper, 
3  first  time  in  his 
ribes  as  a  mighty 
id  whirling  it  round 
on.  Next  day  lie 
er  up  the  channel 
i  of  the  huge  uii 
pposed,  onlv  wast.i 


BABLT  K0RTH-WE8T  T0TA0E9. 


171 


and  desert  isles,  with  mighty  sounds  and  inlets 
passing  between  sea  and  sea. 

Diu-ing  the  captain's  absence  matters  had  become 
worse  with  the  Esquimaux.  The  mariners  on  his  re- 
turn opened  a  fearful  budget ;  the  natives  had  stolen 
an  anchor,  cut  the  cable,  and  even  thrown  stones 
of  half  a  pound  weight  against  the  Moonshine;  and 
he  was  asked  .f  he  would  still  endure  these  injuries. 
Davis,  who  probably  suspected  that  the  sailors' 
own  dealings  had  not  been  very  gentle,  bid  them 
lave  patience,  and  all  should  be  well.  He  invited  an 
Esqmmaux  party  on  board,  made  them  various  little 
presents,  taught  them  to  run  to  the  topmast,  and 
dismissed  them  apparently  quite  pleasedk  Yet  no 
sooner  had  the  sun  set  than  they  began  to  "  practise 
their  devilish  nature,"  and  threw  stones  into  the 
Moonshine,  one  of  which  knocked  down  the  boat- 
swain. The  captain's  meek  spirit  was  at  length  kin- 
dled to  wrath,  and  he  gave  full  warrant  for  two  boats 
to  chase  the  culprits ;  but  they  rowed  so  swiftly  that 
the  pursuers  returned  with  small  content."  Two 
days  after,  five  natives  presented  themselves  with 
overtures  for  a  fresh  truce ;  but  the  master  came  to 
Davis,  remonstrating  that  oi  of  them  was  "  the  chief 
ringleader,  a  master  of  misc.  i  ;f,"  and  was  vehement 
not  to  let  him  go.  He  was  \\  ide  captive,  and,  a  fair 
wind  suddenly  springing  up,  tue  English  set  sail,  and 
carried  him  away,  many  doleful  signs  being  then  ex- 
changed between  him  and  one  of  his  countr3rmen ; 
however,  on  being  well  treated,  and  presented  with 
a  new  suit  of  frieze,  his  spirits  revived,  he  became  a 
pleasant  companion,  and  used  occasionally  to  assist 
the  sailors. 

Davis,  finding  the  wind  favourable,  pushed  across 
the  bay,  in  hopes  of  attaining  the  object  of  his  voyage. 
On  the  17th  July  the  mariners  descried  a  land  diver- 
sified  with  hills,  bays,  and  capes,  and  extending  far- 
ther than  the  eye  could  reach ;  but  what  was  their 
horror  on  approaching,  to  find  that  it  was  only  "  a 


172 


KARLT  NORTH-WIST  TOTAOEa. 


most  mighty  and  Btrange  quantity  of  ice !"    It  was, 
in  fact,  that  great  barrier,  which  often,  for  a  great 
part  of  the  season,  Alls  the  middle  of  Baffin's  Bay. 
As  they  coasted  along  this  mighty  field,  a  fog  came 
on,  by  which  the  ropes,  shrouds,  and  sails  were  all 
fast  frozen,— a  phenomena  which,  on  the  a4th  July, 
appeared  more  than  strange.    Dismayed  by  these  ob- 
servations, the  seamen  considered  the  passage  hope- 
less, and,  in  a  respectful  yet  firm  tone,  warned  Davis, 
that  by  "his  over-boldness  he  might  cause  their 
widows  and  fatherless,  children  to  give  him  bitter 
curses."    Davis  was  willing  to  consider  their  case ; 
yet,  anxious  not  to  abandon  so  great  an  enterprise, 
he  determined  to  leave  behind  him  the  Mermaid,  as 
a  vessel  less  convenient  and  nimble,  and  to  push  on 
in  the  Moonshine  with  the  boldest  part  of  his  crew. 
Having  found  a  favourable  breeze,  he  at  last,  on  the 
Ist  August,  turned  the  ice,  and  in  lat.  66°  33'  reached 
land;  ajong  which  he  now  coasted  southward  for 
about  ten  degrees,  entpjigled  among  a  number  of 
islands,  and  missing,  in  his  progress,  the  different 
inlets  which  afforded  an  entrance  into  Hudson's  Bay. 
The  shores  were  crowded  with  incredible  flocks  of 
gulls  and  seamews,  and  the  water  so  abounded  in  fish, 
that,  though  their  tackle  was  very  indifferent,  in  the 
running  of  an.  hour-glass  the  crew  caught  a  hundred 
cod.     On  reaching  Labrador,  the  coast  was  seen 
covered  with  ample  forests  of  fir,  pine,  yew,  and 
birch;  but  five  men  who  landed  were  beset  by  tho 
natives,  and  two  of  them  killed  and  two  wounded. 
Davis,  being  also  exposed  to  a  violent  tempest,  and 
seeing  September  arrive,  judged  it  wisest  to  return  to 
England. 

The  public  were  considerably  damped  by  the  issue 
of  this  expedition,  so  that  Davis  found  no  small  dif. 
ficulty  in  obtaining  the  means  for  equipping  another. 
He  was  obliged  to  hold  out  the  inducement,  that,  by 
proper  arrangements,  the  outlay  might  be  defrayed 
by  fishing  and  no  additional  expense  incurred  on 


rOTAOKS. 

ty  of  ice !"  It  was, 
I  often,  for  a  great 
lie  of  Baffin's  Bay. 
ty  field,  a  fog  came 

and  sails  were  all 
I,  on  the  a4th  July, 
smayed  by  these  ob- 
d  the  passage  hope- 
tone,  wanied  Davis, 

might  cause  their 
to  give  him  bitter 
Dnsider  their  case; 
reat  an  enterprise, 
n  the  Mennaid,  as 
ble,  and  to  push  on 
t  part  of  his  crew. 
!,  he  at  last,  on  the 
lat.  66°  33'  reached 
ted  southward  for 
long  a  number  of 
Tess,  the  different 
nto  Hudson's  Bay. 
icredible  flocks  of 
10  abounded  in  fish, 

indifferent,  in  the 
'  caught  a  hundred 
e  coast  was  seen 
r,  pine,  j^ew,  and 
i^ere  beset  by  tho 
id  two  wounded, 
lent  tempest,  and 
wisest  to  return  to 

imped  by  the  issue 
iiind  no  small  dif- 
quipping  another, 
ucement,  that,  by 
light  be  defrayed 
inse  incurred  on 


EARLY  NORTH-WEST  VOYAGES. 


173 


account  of  discovery.    By  these  arguments,  and  by 
the  exertions  of  his  zealous  friend,  Mr,  Sanderson,  he 
succeeded  in  fitting  out  the  Sunshine,  the  Elizabeth, 
and  a  pinnace.    This  last,  to  which  he  mainly  trusted 
for  discovery,  answered  very  ill  tho  character  which 
had  been  given  of  it,  and  was  found  to  move  through 
the  water  like  a  cart  drawn  by  oxen.    On  the  16th 
June    (1587),  the   adventurers  arrived  at  their  old 
coast,  and  were  received  by  the  natives  as  before  with 
the  cry  ofiliaout  and  the  exhibition  of  skins.    These 
savages,  however,  lost  no  time  in  the  renewal  of  their 
former  system  of  thieving ;  for  xvhich  great  opportu- 
nities were  afforded  during  the  putting  together  of  a 
boat  with  materials  brought  from  England.    They 
carried  off  the  planks,  and  when  fired  at  placed  them 
before  their  bodies  as  shields,  thus  securing  both  their 
planks  and  persons.    It  was  now  arranged  that  the 
two  large  vessels  should  remain  to  fish,  while  Davia 
in  the  pinnace  should  stretch  out  into  a  higher  la- 
titude with  a  view  to  discovery.    In    pursuance 
of  this  plan  he  took  his  departure,  and,  continuing 
to  range  the  coast  to  the  northward,  on  the  28th  he 
reached  a  point  which  he  named  Sanderson's  Hope, 
in  upwards  of  72  degrees,  still  finding  a  wide  open 
sea  to  the  west  and  north.    Here,  the  wind  having 
shifted,  Davis  resolved  to  hold  on  a  western  tack 
across  this  sea,  and  proceeded  for  forty  leagues  with- 
out sight  of  land  or  any  other  obstruction,  when  he 
was  arrested  by  the  usual  barriejr  of  an  immense 
bank  of  ice.    He  first  endeavoiu-ed  to  round  it  by 
the  north,  but,  seeing  no  passage  on  that  side,  turned 
to  the  south,  beating  about  for  several  days  without 
success.    Tempted  by  an  ajiparent  opening,  he  in- 
volved himself  iii  a  bay  of  ice,  from  which  he  was 
not  extricated  without  much  difficulty  and  some 
danger.    He  was  obliged  to  wait  the  moment  when 
the  sea  beating  and  the  sun  shining  on  this  mighty 
mass  should  effect  its  dissolution.    At  length,  on  the 
10th  July,  he  came  in  view  of  Mount  U^eigh,  and 
P3 


174 


■ARZ.T  K     I'rrf-WKgT  VOTAOES. 


11      I 
■  ( 


m>  M 


«t  midiught  fonnc'!  'i;;,'.a^jlf  ;it  tho  mouth  of  the  in- 
let discovered  in  the  first  voyage,  and  which  has 
HJncebeen  called  Omii'nrland  Strait.  Next  day  be 
■ailed  acroHg  its  entruiui  and  in  the  two  following 
days  ascended  its  nortliern  shore,  till  he  w.is  again 
involved  among  numerous  islands.  He  seems  now 
to  have  concluded  is  strait  to  be  an  enclosed  guU, 
and  shaped  his  cou,  to  reach  the  sea;  but  being 
becalmed  in  tlie  bottom  of  the  bay,  he  could  not  till 
the  29th,  by  eoastin?  along  the  southern  shore,  effect 
his  retreat.  FrobisI  Kjr's  Strait  was  now  passed,  seem- 
ingly without  being  recognised  as  such,  but  was 
called  Lumley's  Inlet.  He  next  crossed  the  mouth 
of  an  extensive  gulf,  in  one  part  of  which  his  vessel 
was  carried  along  by  a  violent  current,  while  in  an- 
other  the  water  was  whirling  and  roaring  as  is  usual  at 
the  meeting  of  tides.  Tliis  recess,  being  terminated 
by  Cape  Chidley,  was  evidently  the  grand  entrance 
afterward  penetrated  by  Hudson.  Davis,  however, 
who  had  only  half  a  hogshead  of  water  left,  hastened 
to  the  point  of  rendezvous  fixed  with  the  two  other 
vessels;  but,  to  his  deep  disappointment  and  just 
indignation,  he  found  that  they  had  departed.  It 
was  not  without  hesitation  tfmt,  with  the  slender 
store  remaining  in  his  little  bark,  he  ventured  to 
sail  for  England ;  but  having  scarcely  any  alterna- 
tive, he  undertook  the  voyage,  and  happily  accom- 
plished it. 

Davis  wrote  still  to  Mr.  Sanderson  in  sanguine 
and  almost  exulting  terms.  He  had  reached  a  much 
higher  lai  uide  than  any  fonner  navigator,  and,  with 
the  exception  of  the  barrier  of  ice  on  one  side,  had 
found  the  sea  open,  blue,  of  vast  extent,  and  un- 
fathomable depth.  He  considered,  therefore,  that 
the  success  oi  a  spirited  attempt  was  almost  infal- 
lible. But  tiip  interest  taken  by  the  nation  in  such 
enterprises  seems  only  capable  of  being  sustained  foi 
a  certain  period.  Three  failures  had  exhausted  that 
interest,  and  made  men  indisposed  to  listen  or  in- 


( 


VOTAOEa. 

ho  mouth  of  thn  in« 
age,  and  which  has 
trait.  Next  day  be 
n  the  two  following 
■e,  till  he  w.is  again 
ds.  He  seems  now 
be  an  enclosed  nfiilf, 
I  the  sea;  but  beini? 
jay,  he  could  not  till 
outhcrn  shore,  effect 
M  now  passed,  seem- 
d  as  such,  but  was 
t  crossed  the  mouth 
of  which  his  vessel 
f-Tirrent,  while  in  an- 
roaring  as  is  usual  at 
iss,  being  terminated 
'  the  grand  entrance 
n.  Davis,  however, 
'  water  left,  hastened 
I  with  the  two  other 
pointment  and  Just 
f  had  departed.  It 
t,  with  the  slender 
irk,  he  ventured  to 
arcely  any  altema- 
md  happily  accom- 

dersoD  in  sanguine 
had  reached  a  much 
navigator,  and,  with 
;e  on  one  side,  had 
ast  extent,  and  un- 
red,  therefore,  that 
t  was  almost  infal- 

the  nation  in  such 
f  being  sustained  foi 

had  exhausted  that 
sed  to  listen  or  in« 


lARLV  N0RTH-WK8T  VOYAOIS. 


178 


quire  farther  into  the  suhjert.  It  became  the  cry,B8 
he  inform-s  us,—"  ThiH  Davis  hath  been  three  tjmoH 
employed ;  why  hath  he  not  found  the  passage  1" 
The  death  of  Secretary  Walsingham  occurring  at 
this  period  was  a  ar  trero  blow  to  the  cause,  while 
the  invasion  by  the  dpanish  Armada  soon  followed, 
and  engrossed  for  a  space  all  the  thoughts  and  ener- 
gies  of  the  nation.  Mr.  Sanderson  still  continued 
the  steady  friend  of  Davis;  but,  unaWo  '  !)tain 
resources  for  a  new  armament,  he  could  o„ .  tiuploy 
Molyneux,  the  best  artist  of  his  lime,  'o  onstnict 
a  globe  whicli  comprised  all  that  naviK  ,  '^'mco- 
yeries,  and  is  atill  preserved  in  the  lib  the 

Middle  Temple. 

In  1602  the  spbit  of  the  nation  revivt.,.  io  the 
Muscovy  Company,  which  liad  taken  the  great  li'  hI 
in  all  the  early  schemes  of  discovery,  was  now  added 
the  Levant  Company;  and  these  two  great  bodies, 
finding  the  course  to  India  by  the  Cape  still  beset 
With  many  dangers,  determined  upon  a  joint  effort 
to  penetrate  thither  by  the  north-west.  They  sent 
out  Captain  George  Weymouth  with  two  ve  isels,  the 
Discovery  and  Godspeed,  which  they  called  fly. 
boats,  though  they  were  respectively  of  70  and  60 
tons.  He  left  London  on  the  2d  May,  and  on  the 
I8th  June  came  in  view  of  the  coast  of  Greenland, 
which  appeared  to  him  "  a  main  bank  of  ice."  The 
water  was  in  many  places  as  thick  as  puddle,  mak- 
ing  him  imagine  himself  among  shallows,  tiU  the 
sounding-line  gave  180  fathoms  without  any  ground. 
This,  formerly  observed  by  Davis,  was  probably  the 
green  cloudy  sea  of  Scoresby,  thickened  by  the  in- 
fusion of  numberless  animalcides. 

Weymouth,  having  made  sail  westward  with  a 
favourable  breeze,  came,  on  the  28th,  in  sight  of  the 
coast  of  America.  There  appeared  a  promontory 
covered  with  snow,  which  he  concluded  to  be  War- 
wick's Foreland;  but  the  vessels  were  tossed  to  and 
fro  by  violent  currents,  or  overfalls,  as  he  calls  them, 


7f 


XARLV  NOnrn-WEgT  V0VA0E8. 


•nd  involved  in  fogs  ho  thick,  that  they  wf  to  onro 

fuite  closfl  to  ii  hunk  of  ice  before  it  was  pereeived. 
lowcvor,  being  in  want  of  water,  the  party  landed, 
loaded  then'  boat  with  ice,  and  found  it  to  make  very 
palatable  drink.  The  crows  hcaid  a  yroat  sound  like 
the  dashniRof  waves  on  the  shove;  on  making  np 
to  which  tliey  wtro  dismayed  to  find  it  " the  noise 
of  a  gtt^t  quantity  of  ice,  which  was  very  ioath- 
some  to  be  heard."  The  niist  becan.i  so  thick,  that 
they  could  not  see  two  ships'  length,  and  determined 
to  take  down  the  sails ;  but  were  petrified  to  find 
thenj  so  fast  frozen  to  the  riffling,  that  in  "this 
chiefest  time  of  summer  they  coidd  not  bo  moved." 
Next  day  they  renewed  the  attempt;  but  it  was 
only  by  cutting  away  the  ice  from  the  ropes  that 
Uiey  could  be  made  to  move  through  the  blocks. 
The  following  day  the  fog  lay  so  thick,  and  froze 
so  fast,  that  ropes,  sails,  and  rigging  remained  im- 
moveable. 

These  phenomena  produced  a  disastrous  effect  on 
the  mmds  of  the  sailors,  who  began  to  hold  secret 
conferences,  ending  in  a  conspiracy  "  to  bear  up  the 
helm  for  England."  It  was  proposed  to  seize  Wey- 
mouth,  and  confine  him  in  his  cabin  till  he  gave  his 
consent;  but  the  captain,  receiving  notice  of  this  ne- 
farious design,  called  the  seamen  before  him,  and  in 
presence  of  Mr.  Cartwright  the  preacher,  and  Mr. 
oobreth  the  master,  called  upon  them  to  answer  for 
thus  attempting  to  overthrow  a  voyage  fitted  out  at 
such  ample  cost  by  the  honourable  merchants.  The 
men  stood  firm,  producing  a  paper  signed  by  their 
own  hands,  m  which  they  justified  the  proposed  step 
as  founded  on  solid  reason,  without  any  tincture 
ot  fear  oe  cowardice.  They  represented,  that  if  they 
should  suffer  themselves  to  be  enclosed  in  an  un- 
Juiown  sea,  by  this  dreadful  and  premature  winter, 
they  would  not  oiUybe  in  imminent  danger  of  perish- 
ing,  hut  could  not  hope  to  commence  their  career  of 
ttiscovery  next  year  sooner  than  May;  while  by 


VOVAOES.       ' 

that  tliey  wf>ro  onro 
i>ro  it  was  perceived, 
er,  the  party  landeti, 
ound  it  to  make  very 
udaffroiU  sound  like 
ore ;  on  making  up 
to  find  it  "the  noiHc 
t'h  was  very  loath- 
ecani(  so  thick,  that 
igth,  and  determined 
ere  pf  trifiid  to  find 
ffffing,  that  in  "  this 
idd  not  bo  moved." 
ittempt;  but  it  was 
rom  the  ropes  that 
hrougrh  the  blocks, 
so  thick,  and  froze 
fging  remained  im- 

disastrous  effect  on 
igdn  to  hold  secret 
icy  "  to  bear  up  the 
losed  to  seize  Wey- 
ihin  till  he  jave  his 
ng  notice  of  this  ne- 
1  before  him,  and  in 

preacher,  and  Mr. 
thorn  to  answer  for 
'oyage  fitted  out  at 
le  merchants.  The 
icr  signed  by  their 
d  the  proposed  step 
thout  any  tincture 
Bsented,  that  if  they 
;nclo8cd  in  an  un- 

premature  winter, 
nt  danger  of  perish- 
mce  their  career  of 
m  May;  while  by 


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Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Ji 


.V 


EARLY  NORTH-WEST  VOTAOEfl. 


177 


Betting  sail  in  due  time  fronn  England  they  might  easily 
reach  this  coast  in  that  month.  Weymouth  retired 
to  his  cabin  to  deliberate,  when  he  heard  it  an- 
nounced that  the  helm  was  actually  borne  up.  Hast- 
ening on  deck,  and  asking  who  had  done  this,  he 
was  ans\yered,  "One  and  all!"  and  he  found  the 
combination  such  as  it  was  impossible  to  resist, 
though  he  took  occasion  afteiAvard  to  chastise  the 
ringleaders.  The  men,  however,  declared  them- 
selves ready  to  hazard  their  lives  in  any  discovery 
which  might  be  attempted  to  the  southward. 

Accordingly,  on  descending  to  61°  N.  lat.,  Wey- 
mouth found  himself  at  the  entrance  of  an  inlet,  into 
which  he  sailed  in  a  south-west  direction,  a  hundred 
leagues  by  reckoning;  but  encountering  fogs  and 
heavy  gales,  and  finding  the  season  far  spent,  he 
deemed  it  necessary  to  regain  the  open  sea.  This 
inlet,  however,  was  thought  to  present  more  favour- 
able hopes  of  a  passage  than  any  other  that  had  yet 
been  discovered.  It  appears  in  fact  to  have  been  the 
grand  entrance  of  Hudson's  Bay ;  so  that  Fox  justly 
ascribes  some  merit  to  Weymouth  in  directing  that 
great  navigator  into  this  spacious  expanse.  As  his 
course,  however,  of  v/est  by  south,  must  have  led 
him  off  the  main  channel  of  this  large  strait,  and 
throvm  him  on  the  western  shore  of  what  is  now 
called  Ungava  Bay,  his  estimated  reckoning  of  a 
hundred  leagues  is  evidently  overrated.  In  55°  he 
found  a  fair  land,  consisting  of  islands  and  "  goodly 
somids,"  apparently  the  place  where  the  Moravian 
settlement  of  Nain  was  afterward  formed.  Soon 
after,  a  dreadful  hurricane  from  the  west  seemed  to 
take  up  the  sea  into  the  air,  and  drove  the  ships  be- 
fore it  with  the  utmost  impetuosity.  Had  it  been 
from  any  other  quarter  they  must  have  been  dashed 
to  pieces  on  rocks;  however  they  ranged  through  the 
open  sea,  and  in  the  greatest  extremity  "  the  Lord 
delivered  us  his  unworthy  servants."  He  had  now 
an  easy  navigation  to  England. 


■:msm 


178 


EARLT  NORTH-AVEST  VOYAGES. 


£.' 


No  farther  proceedings  occurred  till  1606,  when 
the  Muscovy  and  East  India  merchants  fitted  out  a 
vessel  of  forty  tons  under  John  Knight,  who  had 
Deen  employed  in  the  Danish  voyages  to  Greenland, 
and  was  considered  a  stout  and  enterpiiaing  sailor. 
He  sailed  from  Gravesend  on  the  18th  April,  but  was 
detained  a  fortnight  in  the  Pentland  Frith ;  however, 
"  two  lustie  fellows,  well  acquainted  w  ith  these  north 
parts  of  Scotland,"  took  him  into  a  good  harbour 
called  St.  Margaret's  Hope,  where  he  remained  till 
the  12th  May.  He  directed  his  course  almost  due 
west,  towargis  America,  and  had  reached  the  latitude 
of  58°,  when  winds  and  currents  bore  him  to  the 
southward.  On  the  19th  of  June  he  was  in  56°  48', 
when  he  saw  the  continent  rising  like  eight  islands. 
The  vessel,  however,  had  been  so  distressed  with 
tempest  and  heavy  fogs,  and  so  bruised  between 
mighty  islands  of  ice,  that  it  was  necessaiy  to  put  it 
into  a  little  cove  to  refit.  Here  the  \vind  blew  with 
such  violence,  bringing  great  islands  of  ice  against 
the  vessel,  that  the  rudder  was  torn  from  the  stem ; 
and  hence  it  became  necessary  to  haul  it  on  shore  at 
the  bottom  of  the  cove,  that  it  might  undergo  a  tho- 
rough repair. 

On  the  26th,  Knight,  with  some  of  his  men  well 
armedfwent  across  in  the  boat  to  the  opposite  coast, 
in  search  of  a  better  harbour,  and  to  take  a  survey 
of  the  country.  With  this  view,  the  captain,  his 
mate,  and  another  went  over  a  hill,  leaving  three 
men  in  charge  of  the  boat.  These  last  waited  the 
whole  day  in  anxious  expectation  of  the  return  of 
the  party;  they  then  sounded  trumpets,  fired  muskets, 
and  made  every  imaginable  signal,  but  without  effect. 
After  waiting  till  eleven  at  night,  they  gave  up  hopes, 
and  returned  to  the  ship  with  these  black  and  doleful 
tidings.  The  crew  were  struck  with  the  deepest 
dismay  at  having  thus  lost  their  captain  and  best 
officers,  and  being  themselves  left  in  such  deplorable 
circumstances.    The  boat  was  fitted  out  nextmom- 


,..„t^.ik,...t-iff  .^M     II,' .■■'i,r--^i-:<-ja..p|j.ftg|^^^^^^^ 


VOYAGES. 

rred  till  1606,  yrhen 
rchants  fitted  out  a 
ti  Kiiight,  who  had 
yages  to  Greenland, 

enterpiising  sailor, 
e  18th  April,  but  was 
and  Frith;  however, 
ited  H  ith  these  north 
ito  a  good  harbour 
ire  he  remained  till 
I  course  almost  due 
reached  the  latitude 
Its  bore  him  to  the 
e  he  was  in  56°  48', 
g  like  eight  islands. 

so  distressed  with 
so  bruised  between 
3  necessary  to  put  it 
the  \vind  blew  with 
ands  of  ice  against 
om  from  the  stem ; 
0  haul  it  on  shore  at 
light  undergo  a  tho- 

ne  of  his  men  well 
)  the  opposite  coast, 
d  to  take  a  survey 
iw,  the  captain,  his 
.  hill,  leaving  three 
ese  last  waited  the 
)n  of  the  return  of 
npets,  fired  muskets, 
il,  but  without  effect. 
,  they  gave  up  hopes, 
'.ae  black  and  doleful 
k  with  the  deepest 
ir  captain  and  best 
ft  in  such  deplorable 
itted  out  nextmom> 


EAKLT  NORTH-WEST  VOYAGES. 


179 


ing  for  search,  but  could  not  cross  the  channel  on 
account  of  the  ice.  After  two  distressful  days,  on 
the  night  of  Saturday,  the  28th  of  June,  as  the  boat- 
swain was  keeping  watch  in  advance  of  the  tents,  he 
suddenly  saw  rushing  through  the  darkness  a  great 
body  of  men,  who,  on  descrying  him,  let  fly  their  ar- 
rows. He  instantly  fired,  and  gave  the  alarm ;  but, 
before  the  crow  could  start  from  bed  and  be  mus- 
tered, the  shallop  was  filled  with  fifty  savages,  who, 
with  loud  cries  and  menacing  gestures,  showed  them- 
selves prepared  for  immediate  attack.  The  English 
mustered  only  eight  men  and  a  large  dog,  and  though 
the  rain  fell  m  torrents,  they  determined  rather  to 
perish  bravely,  assailing  this  savage  enemy,  than  to 
wait  their  onset.  They  advanced,  therefore,  placing 
the  dog  foremost.  This  bold  front  appalled  the  sa- 
vages, who  leaped  into  their  boats,  and  made  off  with 
all  speed ;  but  they  were  entangled  in  the  ice,  and 
detained  a  considerable  time,  during  which  the  pur- 
suers continued  firing,  and  the  savages  were  heard 
"crying  to  each  other  very  sore."  They  are  repre- 
sented, so  far  as  could  be  judged,  as  very  small  peo- 
ple, tawny-coloured,  with  thin  or  no  beards,  flat- 
nosed,  and  man-eaters ;  but  this  last  particular  was 
doubtless  hypothetical. 

The  mariners,  placed  in  this  alarming  situation, 
made  all  the  haste  they  could  to  fit  their  shattered 
bark  for  again  taking  the  sea.  They  had  first  to  cut 
a  way  for  her  through  the  ice ;  but  they  had  nothing 
which  could  be  called  a  rudder,  and  the  leaks  were 
80  large,  that  the  sailors  could  scarcely  enjoy  half 
an  hour's  relief  from  the  pump.  At  length  they 
found  means  to  stop  up  tolerably  the  principle  fissure, 
and,  after  hard  rowing  and  pumping  for  three  weeks, 
succeeded  in  reaching  the  coast  of  Newfoundland. 
Among  the  fishing  vessels  on  that  station,  they  found 
most  kind  and  loving  friends,  who  supplied  all  their 
wants ;  and  after  twenty  days  spent  in  repairing  their 
sliip,  and  refreshing  their  bodies,  the  crew  enjoyed  a 


180 


BARLY  NORTH-WEST  TOTAOEa 


^ 


i 


good  passage  to  Dartmouth,  whence  they  transmitted 
to  London  an  account  of  the  doleful  issue  of  their 
voyage. 

It  was  Hudson  that  now  stood  foremost  in  the 
"*^®if  .P    northern  discovery,  and  earned  a  fame 
which  has  placed  him  among  the  greatest  of  British 
navigators.    We  have  traced  his  career  in  former 
chapters— first  in  the  daring  attempt  to  cross  the 
Pole  Itself;  then  in  his  second  voyage  for  the  north- 
cast  passage;  and  also  in  his  third  excursion,  which 
ended  in  the  discovery  of  the  river  now  associated 
with  his  name.    But  the  most  eventful  of  his  voy 
ages,  and  that  marked  by  the  grandest  result,  was 
the  one  which  closed  his  labours,  undertaken  with  a 
view  to  a  western  passage.    The  narrative  of  the 
commander  himself  is  only  a  meager  journal,  brought 
down  to  a  particular  point  of  the  voyage ;  but  a  full 
relation  is  given  by  a  certain  personage,  naming 
himself  Abacuk  Pricket,  against  whose  testimony, 
however,  for  reasons  that  will  appear  in  due  time, 
there  rest  some  heavy  objections.    This  expedition 
was  fitted  out  by  Sir  John  Wolstenholme,  Sir  Dudley 
Digges,  and  other  persons  of  distinction,  who  did 
not,  however,  project  it  on  a  very  magnificent  scale. 
It  consisted  only  of  one  vessel  of  55  tons,  provisioned 
for  SIX  months,  which  left  the  Thames  on  the  17th 
April,  1610.    Hudson  touched  at  the  north  of  Scot- 
land, the  Orkney  and  the  Faroe  Islands,  Jl  which 
he  judged  to  lie  not  in  so  high  a  latitude  as  tht  maps 
represented.    On  the  11th  May  he  descried  the  east* 
ern  part  of  Iceland,  and  was  enveloped  in  a  thick 
south  fog;  hearing  the  sea  daahing  against  the  coast 
without  seeing  it.    He  was  thus  obliged  to  come  to 
anchor;  but,  as  soon  as  the  weather  cleared,  he  pro 
ceeded  westward  along  the  coast  till  he  reached 
Snow  Hill  (Snaefell),  which  rears  its  awful  head 
above  the  sea  that  leads  to  the  frozen  shores  of 
Greenland.    On  their  way  the  navigators  saw  H*cla, 
the  volcano  of  which  was  then  in  activity,  vomiting 


^^^^i.^>,.,.^.^.,^:^Af^^^^ffl^ 


roTAOEa. 

nee  they  transmitted 
)leful  iflsue  of  their 

>od  foremost  in  tlie 
and  earned  a  fame 
3  greatest  of  British 
is  career  in  former 
tempt  to  cross  the 
oyage  for  the  north- 
rd  excursion,  which 
iver  now  associated 
iventful  of  his  voy 
grandest  result,  was 
^  undertaken  with  a 
he  narrative  of  the 
ger  journal,  brought 
!  voyage ;  but  a  full 
personage,  naming 

whose  testimony, 
ippear  in  due  time, 
3.  This  expedition 
nholme.  Sir  Dudley 
istinction,  who  did 
'  magnificent  scale. 
S5  tons,  provisioned 
Thames  on  the  17th 
the  north  of  Scot- 
I  Islands,  Jl  which 
ititude  as  th<:>  maps 
e  descried  the  east- 
veloped  in  a  thick 
g  against  the  coast 
obliged  to  come  to 
ler  cleared,  he  pro 
St  till  he  reached 
irs  its  awful  head 

frozen  shores  of 
igators  saw  HAcla, 

activity,  vomiting 


i^lit 


TJiliriSi, 


SARLT  NORTH-WEST  V0TA0E8, 


181 


torrents  of  fire  down  its  snowy  sides,  with  smoke 
ascending  to  the  sky;  an  object  not  only  fear;  il  in 
itself,  but  which  struck  them  with  alarm,  as  an  mdi- 
cation  of  unfavourable  weather. 

Leaving  the  Icelandic  coast  they  now  sailed  west- 
ward, and,  after  being  deceived  by  illusory  appear- 
ances of  land,  at  length  saw  the  white  cliffs  of 
Greenland  towering  behind  a  mighty  wall  of  ice. 
Without  attempting  to  approach  the  coast,  Hudson 
sailed  towards  the  south-west,  and  passed  what  he 
imagined  to  be  Frobisher's  Straits,  which  in  fact  long 
continued  to  be  laid  down  on  the  coast  of  Green- 
land, though  with  manifest  error,  since  they  evidently 
belong  to  that  of  America.  Hudson  now  turned 
Cape  Farewell,  and  "  raised  the  Desolations,"  making 
careful  observation  of  those  coasts,  which  he  found 
not  well  laid  down  in  the  charts.  The  mariners 
soon  began  to  descry,  floating  along,  the  mighty 
islands  of  ice,— a  sight  which  appalled  all  but  the 
stoutest  hearts.  Onward  they  sailed,  however,  some- 
times enjoying  a  clear  and  open  sea,  but  often  en- 
compassed by  these  mighty  masses,  or  by  the  small 
and  drifting  heaps;  and  at  length  they  had  to  steer 


••  -it, 


r 


182 


EARLY  NORTH-WEST  TOVAOE* 


as  it  were  between  twa  hinds  of  ice.    They  some- 
times moored  themselves,  on  orcasions  of  peril,  to 
tho-se  icebergs ;  but  seeing  one  of  thorn  dispart,  and 
fall  with  a  tremendous  crash  into  the  sea,  they  no 
lonper  trusted  to  such  a  protection.     On  the  25th 
.lune  land  appeared  to  the  north,  was  again  lost  sight 
of,  and  afterward  discovered  to  the  south ;  so  that 
they  found  themselves  at  the  broad  entrance  of  th  j 
channel  which  has  since  obtained  the  name  of  Hud- 
son's Strait.    They  were  now  still  more  pestered 
with  ice  in  various  forms,  particularly  that  of  largo 
islands  standing  deep  in  the  water,  which  were  more 
difficult  to  avoid  from  the  violent  ripples  and  currents. 
Thus  they  were  often  obliged,  especially  amid  thick 
fogs,  to  fasten  themselves  to  the  largest  and  firmest 
of  these  masses,  upon  which  they  used  to  go  out 
from  time  to  time,  collecting  the  water  melted  in  the 
hollows,  which  proved  to  be  sweet  and  good.    Amid 
these  vicissitudes  many  of  the  sailors  fell  sick ;  and 
though  Pricket  does  not  choose  to  assert  that  their 
sole  malady  was  fear,  yet  in  many  he  saw  small 
symptoms  of  any  other.    The  crews  of  that  period, 
indeed,  display  few  symptoms  of  the  patience  and 
hardihood  with  which  those  of  Willoughby  and 
Frobisher  had  first  braved  the  northern  tempests. 
Hudson,  seeing  his  men  in  this  depressed  temper, 
bethought  himself  of  an  expedient  by  which  he 
hoped  to  animate  them.    He  called  them  together, 
showed  them  his  card  (chart),  from  which  it  appeared 
that  they  had  penetrated  farther  into  the  straits  by  a 
hundred  leagues  than  any  former  expedition,  and  put 
It  to  themselves  whether  they  would  proceed,  yea 
or  nay.    This  was  a  bold  experiment,  but  did  not 
succeed.    Some,  it  is  true,  expressed  themselves 
"  honestly  respecting  the  good  of  the  action ;"  but 
others  declared  they  would  give  nine-tenths  of  all 
they  were  worth,  so  that  they  were  safe  at  home: 
others  said  they  did  not  care  where  they  went,  so 
they  were  oui  of  the  ice.    Hudson,  vexed  and  dia- 


jaus, 


TOYAOBIi 

tf  ice.    They  some- 
ccasions  of  peril,  to 
[)f  them  dispart,  and 
nto  the  sea,  they  no 
Jtion.    On  the  25th 
was  again  lost  siRht 
I  the  south ;  so  that 
oad  entrance  of  thj 
d  the  name  of  Hud- 
still  more  pestered 
jularly  that  of  larpfo 
sr,  which  were  more 
ripples  and  currents, 
specially  amid  thick 
!  largest  and  firmest 
ley  used  to  go  out 
water  melted  in  the 
et  and  good.    Amid 
ailors  fell  sick ;  and 
to  assert  that  their 
nany  he  saw  small 
rews  of  that  period, 
)f  the  patience  and 
f  Willoughby  and 
northern  tempests. 
1  depressed  temper, 
lient  by  which  he 
died  them  together, 
n  which  it  appeared 
nto  the  straits  by  a 
expedition,  and  put 
vould  proceed,  yea 
iment,  but  did  not 
)ressed  themselves 
)f  the  action ;"  but 
I  nine-tenths  of  all 
ere  safe  at  home: 
liere  they  went,  so 
9011,  vexed  and  di^i- 


EAllty  NOnTH-WEST  VOYAOEB. 


188 


^ili^.^^  .  .,  A-».  f-|.-^«,-|  |. Ill   ,  _ 


Appointed,  broke  up  the  conference,  and  followed  his 
own  determination.  This,  we  think,  is  evidently 
the  real  state  of  the  case,  though  Pricket  represents 
the  captain  liimself  as  in  a  state  of  alarm  and  doubt. 
He  accuses  him  also  of  having  remembered  too 
long  some  of  the  speeches  made  on  this  occasion,  to 
the  disadvantage  of  those  by  whom  they  had  been 
uttered.  "    . 

Notwithstanding  this  failure,  Hudson,  buoyed  up 
by  his  own  courage  and  hardihood,  seeing  land  alter- 
nately  on  one  side  and  the  other,  having  sometimes 
a  wide  and  clear  sea,  and  being  sometimes  involved 
amid  mountains  of  ice,  made  his  way  onward.  Cer- 
tain rocky  islands  in  wluch,  when  severely  pressed 
by  the  wind  and  floe,  he  found  a  tolerable  harbour, 
were  called  "  Isles  of  God's  Mercy ;"  but  even  this 
harbour  was  rendered  dangerous  by  hidden  reefs; 
and  the  island  adjoining  to  it  contained,  according 
to  Pricket,  only  "  plashes  of  water  and  riven  rocks," 
and  had  the  appearance  of  being  subject  to  earth, 
quake.  At  length,  they  arrived  at  a  broad  opening, 
Having  on  each  side  capes,  to  which  Hudson  gave 
the  names  of  the  two  chief  patrons  of  the  voyage; 
to  the  one  on  the  continent,  that  of  Wolstenholme ; 
to  the  other  on  the  large  island  of  Mansfield,  that  of 
Sir  Dudley  Diggcs.  Landing  at  the  island  cape,  and 
mounting  a  hill,  the  men  descried  some  level  spots 
abounding  in  sorrel  and  scurvy-grass,  plants  most 
salutary  in  this  climate;  while  herds  of  deer  were 
feeding,  and  the  rocks  were  covered  with  an  unex- 
ampled profusion  of  fowls.  Seeing  such  ample  ma- 
terials, both  for  sport  and  food,  the  crew,  who  had 
ever  shown  the  most  anxious  concern  for  their  own 
comfort,  earnest'.'  besought  Hudson  to  allow  them 
to  remain  and  ;  )v  themselves  for  a  few  days  on 
this  agreeable  spov.  But  that  great  navigator,  seeing 
the  season  for  his  chief  enterprise  rapidly  passing 
away,  repelled  such  an  overture.  He  had  not  long 
proceeded  through  tliis  channel  when  the  coasts  on 


184 


KARLT  NORTH'WEST  VOTAOES. 


r 


each  side  were  seen  to  separate,  and  he  beheld  before 
Inm  an  ocean-expanse,  to  which  the  eye  could  dis- 
cover  no  termination.  It  seemed  to  him,  doubtless, 
a  portion  of  the  mighty  Pacific.  Here,  however, 
Hudson  8  narrative  closes,  without  expressing  those 
feehngs  of  pride  and  exultation  which  must  have 
filled  his  mind  at  this  promised  fulfilment  of  his 
highest  hopes.  The  relation  of  Pricket,  on  which 
we  must  now  depend,  shows  too  clearly  that  many 
of  his  crew  would  have  had  no  sympathy  with  such 
elevated  feelings. 

The  expanse  thus  discovered  by  Hudson  was  the 
great  inland  sea,  called  from  him  Hudson's  Bay;  and 
It  was  a  grand  discovery,  though  not  exactly  what 
he  imagined.    The  3d  of  August  m';is  now  airived, 
a  seiwon  at  which  the  boldest  of  northern  navigators 
had  been  accustomed  to  think  of  returning.    Little 
inclined  to  such  a  course,  he  continued  to  sail  along 
the  coast  on  the  left,  which  must  have  appeared  to 
him  the  western  boundary  of  America ;  hoping  pro- 
bably  before  the  close  of  autumn  to  reach  some  cul- 
tivated and  temperate  shore,  where  he  might  take 
up  his  wuiter-quarters.    The  shores  along  this  bay, 
however,  though  not  in  a  very  high  latitude,  are 
subject  to  a  climate  the  most  rigorous  and  inclement. 
Entangled  in  the  gulfs  and  capes  of  an  unknown 
coast,  struggling  with  mist  and  storm,  and  iU  se- 
conded by  a  discontented   crew,  he  spent  three 
months  without  reaching  any  comfortable  haven. 
It  was  now  the  1st  November,  the  ice  was  closing  in 
on  all  sides,  and  nothing  remained  but  to  meet  the 
cheerless  winter  which  had  actually  begun.    The 
sailors  were  too  late  of  attempting  to  erect  a  wooden 
house ;  yet  the  cold,  though  severe,  does  not  seem  to 
have  reached  any  perilous  height.   Their  chief  alarm 
respected  provisions,  of  which  they  had  brought 
only  a  six  months'  supply,  and  consequently  had  now 
only  a  small  remnant  left.    Hudson  took  active 
measures  to  relieve  this  want.    He  carefully  hus- 


«b^ 


ati'iti 


VOTAOB0. 

and  he  beheld  before 
h  the  eye  could  dis- 
d  to  him,  doubtless, 
c.  Here,  however, 
)ut  expressinK  those 
1  which  must  have 
d  fulfilment  of  his 
r  Pricket,  on  which 
o  clearly  that  many 
sympathy  with  such 

by  Hudson  was  the 
Hudson's  Bay;  and 
?h  not  exactly  what 
t  was  now  airived, 
lorthem  navigrators 
f  retunung.  Little 
tinned  to  sail  along 
t  have  appeared  to 
lerica;  hoping  pro- 

to  reach  some  cul- 
lere  he  might  take 
Tcs  along  this  bay, 
high  latitude,  are 
OU8  and  inclement. 
es  of  an  unknown 
storm,  and  ill  se- 
V,  he  spent  three 
comfortable  haven, 
i  ice  was  closing  in 
ed  but  to  meet  the 
lally  begun.  The 
f  to  erect  a  wooden 
e,  does  not  seem  to 

Their  chief  alarm 
they  had  brought 
sequently  had  now 
idson  took  active 
He  carefully  hus- 


CARLY  NonTH-Wl!BT  V0YA0K8. 


I8S 


banded  the  original  stock,  and  propounded  a  reward 
to  whoever  should  kill  beast,  flsh,  or  bird ;  and 
"Providence  dealt  mercifully,"  in  sending  such  a 
supply  of  white  partridges,  that  in  three  months  they 
killed  a  hundred  dozen.  In  spring  these  birds  dis- 
appeared, but  were  succeeded  by  flocks  of  geese, 
swims,  ducks,  and  teal,  not  denizens  of  the  spot,  btit 
on  their  flight  from  soutli  to  north.  When  tliese 
were  passed,  the  air  no  longer  yielded  a  supply,  but 
the  sea  began  to  oi)en,  and  having  on  the  first  day 
taken  five  hundred  fishes  of  tolerable  size,  they  con- 
ceived good  hopes ;  but  this  success  did  not  conti- 
nue. Being  reduced  to  great  extremity,  they  searched 
the  woods  for  moss,  which  they  compare,  however, 
to  pounded  timber :  they  ate  even  frogs.  The  com- 
mander undertook  an  excursion  with  a  view  to  open 
an  intercourse  with  the  natives,  but  they  fled,  setting 
fire  even  to  the  woods  behind  them.  Parley  was 
obtained  with  one,  who  was  loaded  with  gifts,  yet 
he  never  returned.  Discontents  arose  as  to  the  diis- 
tribution  of  the  small  remaining  portion  of  bread 
and  cheese,  to  allay  which  the  captain  made  a  gene- 
ral and  equal  partition  of  the  whole.  This  was  a  bad 
measure  among  such  a  crew,  many  of  whom  knew 
not  how  "to  govern  their  share,"  but  greedily 
devoured  it  as  long  as  it  lasted.  One  man  even  ate 
the  whole  in  a  day,  and  broug;ht  on  a  dangerous  sur- 
feit. Their  distress,  becomnig  thus  greater  than 
ever,  soon  brought  on  a  most  fatal  crisis. 

Hudson,  as  may  be  observed,  had  from  the  first  to 
struggle  with  an  unprincipled,  ill-tempered  crew, 
void  of  any  concern  for  the  ultimate  success  of  the 
voyage.  He  had  probably  hoped,  as  the  season 
should  advance,  to  push  on  southward,  and  reach 
next  summer  the  wealthy  regions  which  he  was 
coKimissioned  to  search,  The  sailors,  on  the  contrary, 
had  fixed  their  desires  on  "  the  cape  where  fowls  do 
breed,"  the  only  place  where  they  expected  to  obtain 
both  present  suDcly  and  the  means  of  returning  to 
U  -2 


180 


EARLY   NORTH-WCaT  VOYAOEfl. 


Englnnd.  RinRleadrrs  were  not  wantinff  to  head 
this  |[(rowinpr  party  of  mnlcontents.  At  the  entrance 
of  the  bay  the  captnin  liad  disphiccd  Ivet  the  mate, 
who  had  shown  strong  propensitiea  totirarda  return- 
ing, and  appointed  in  his  room  Bylot,  a  man  of 
merit,  and  who  had  always  shown  zoai  in  the  ge- 
neral cause.  He  had  also  clianged  the  boatswain. 
But  the  most  deadly  blow  was  struck  by  (irecn, 
a  wretch  »vhom,  after  he  had  been  cast  off  by  all 
his  friends,  Hudson,  from  humanity,  had  taken  on 
board,  and  endeavoured  to  reclaim  and  restore  to 
society.  He  was  possessed  of  talents  which  had  made 
him  useful,  and  even  a  favourite  with  his  superior; 
and  among  other  discontents,  it  was  reckoned  one, 
that  a  veil  was  thrown  over  several  flagrant  disor- 
ders of  which  he  had  been  guilty.  Yet  some  hot 
expressions  of  Hudson  caused,  it  is  said,  by  a  mis- 
understanding  about  the  purchase  of  a  gmy  coat,  so 
acted  on  the  fierce  spirit  of  this  ruffian,  that,  renounc- 
ing every  tie  of  gratitude  and  all  that  is  sacred  among 
mankind,  he  became  the  chief  in  a  conspiracy  to  seize 
the  vessel  and  expose  the  commander  to  perish. 

After  some  days'  consultation,  the  time  was  fixed 
for  the  perpetration  of  this  horrible  atrocity.  On 
the  21st  June,  1611,  Green  and  Wilson  the  boat- 
swain  came  into  Pricket  the  narrator's  cabin,  and 
announced  their  fatal  resolution ;  adding,  that  they 
bore  him  so  much  good-will  as  to  wish  that  he  should 
remain  on  board.  Pricket  avers  most  solemnly, 
that  he  exhausted  every  argument  which  might  in- 
duce them  to  desist  from  ihmi  horrid  purpose,  be- 
seeching  them  not  to  do  so  foul  a  thing  in  the  sight 
of  God  and  man,  and  which  would  for  ever  bamsh 
them  from  their  native  country,  their  wives,  and 
children.  Green  wildly  answered,  that  they  had 
made  up  their  minds  to  go  through  with  it  or  die, 
and  that  they  would  rather  be  hanged  at  home  than 
starve  here.  An  attempt  was  then  made  to  nego. 
tiate  a  delay  of  three,  two,  or  even  one  day,  but  aU 


VOYAOEI. 

t  wantinif  to  head 
a.  At  the  entrance 
iced  Ivet  the  mate, 
iea  to\irardi  return* 
I  Bylot,  a  man  of 
wn  zoal  in  the  ge- 
xe(\  tbe  l)oat8wain. 

struck  by  Green, 
een  cast  off  by  till 
nity,  had  taken  on 
lini  and  restore  to 
nts  which  liad  made 
with  his  superior} 
was  reckoned  one, 
sral  flajn^nt  disor- 
y.  Yet  some  hot 
t  is  said,  by  a  mis- 
I  of  a  gray  coat,  so 
flan,  that,  renounc 
lat  is  sacred  among 
conspiracy  to  seize 
nder  to  perish, 
the  time  was  fixed 
ible  atrocity.  On 
Wilson  the  boat- 
rrator's  cabin,  and 

adding,  that  they 
vish  t}iat  he  should 
s  most  solemnly, 
It  which  might  in- 
lorrid  purpose,  be- 
i  thing  in  the  si^ht 
Id  for  ever  bamsh 

their  wives,  and 
id,  that  they  had 
jh  with  it  or  die, 
iged  at  home  than 
en  made  to  nego« 
n  one  day,  but  all 


CARLV   NORTII-WVBT  VOYAQEM 


187 


without  effect.    Ivet  came  next,  of  whom,  as  btiing 
a  person  of  mature  age,  there  Kcomcd  more  hope;  but 
he  was  worse  than  Green,  declaring  that  he  would 
justify  in  England  the  (hed  on  which  they  had  re- 
solved.    John  Thomas  and  Michael  I'crsc  now  camo 
in,  proving  thcmwdvcH  "birds  of  a  feather,"  and 
Motor  and  Uunnet  having  followed,  an  oath  was 
administered  to  the  following  tenor:— "You  shall 
swear  truth  to  Go<l,  your  jjrince,  and  country ;  you 
shall  do  nothing  but  to  the  glory  of  God  and  the  good 
of  the  action  in  hand,  and  harm  to  no  man."  Pricket 
complains  of  the  reproach  thrown  upon  him  for  hav. 
ing  taken  this  oath,  the  bare  terms  of  which  are 
certainly  unexceptionable ;  but  the  dark  context  by 
which  they  were  illustrated  marks  them  ns  contain- 
ing an  implied  obligation  to  remain  at  least  psissive 
on  this  dreadful  occasion.    All  was  now  ready,  but 
Pricket  persuaded  them  to  d "hiy  till  daylight  tho 
accomplishment  of  their  crime.    They  agreed,  but 
kept  strict  watch  through  the  night,  and  held  them- 
selves  ready  to  act  at  the  first  appearance  of  dawn. 
Daybreak  approaching,  Hudson  came  out  of  his 
cabin,  when  he  was  instantly  set  ui)on  by  Thomas, 
Bennet,  and  Wilson,  who  seized  him  and  bound  his 
hands  behind  his  back ;  and  on  his  eageriy  asking 
what  they  meant,  told  him  he  should  know  when 
he  was  in  tho  shallop.    Ivet  then  attacked  King 
the  carpenter,  known  as  the  commander's  most  de- 
voted  adherent.    That  brave  fellow,  having  a  sword, 
made  a  formidable  resistance,  and  would  have  killed 
h/8  assailant,  had  not  the  latter  been  speedily  re. 
inforced.    The  mutineers  tlien  offered  to  him  tha 
choice  of  continuing  in  the  ship ;  but  he  absolutely 
refused  to  be  detained  otherwise  than  by  force,  and 
immediately  followed  his  master,  whom  the  conspi- 
rators  were  already  letting  down  the  sides  of  the  ves- 
sel mto  the  shallop.    Then,  with  a  barbarity  Iteyond 
all  example,  they  called  from  their  beds  and  drove 
mto  it,  not  the  firm  adherents  of  Hudson,  but  the 


mm 


mei!mmm»im,\mm»imwm.i}  mnnjij  i 


.     «ir1!j!tjtlii1.i|j-»1ri 


188 


XAIU.7  NORTH-WEST  VOTAGKS. 


Bick  and  infirm  sailors  who  could  afford  no  aid,  and 
whose  support  would  have  been  burdensome.  They 
threw  after  them  the  carpenter's  box,  with  some  pow- 
der and  shot.  Scarcely  was  this  transaction  com- 
pleted, when  they  cut  off  the  boat  from  the  stem, 
"  out  with  their  topsail,"  and  set  off,  flying  as  from 
an  enemy.  Hudson,  thus  abandoned,  was  never 
heard  of  more ;  and  this  great  navigator  undoubted- 
ly perished  on  those  remote  and  desolate  shores, 
though  the  form  or  duration  of  the  distress  to  which 
he  fell  a  victim  must  be  for  ever  unknown. 

The  sailors,  as  soon  as  the  guilty  deed  was  ac- 
complished, fell  upon  the  ship  as  on  a  captured  vessel, 
breaking  open  every  chest,  and  seizing  on  every 
remnant  of  food  which  could  be  discovered.  Green, 
however,  who  now  assumed  the  command,  used  some 
vigour  in  restoring  order.  He  placed  the  cabin  and 
provisions  under  the  charge  of  Pricket,  who  was  af- 
terward accused  of  a  matter  no  less  than  treason, — 
lliat  of  secreting  some  cakes  of  bread.  As  soon  as 
the  mutineers  had  time  to  reflect,  rueful  musings  be- 
gan to  arise.  Even  Green  admitted  that  England  at 
this  time  was  no  place  for  them,  nor  could  he  con- 
trive any  better  scheme  than  to  keep  the  high  sea  till, 
by  some  means  or  other,  they  might  procure  a  pardon 
under  his  Majesty's  hand  and  seal.  The  vessel  was 
now  embayed,  and  detained  for  a  fortnight  amid  fields 
of  ice,  which  extended  for  miles  around  it ;  and,  but 
for  some  cockle-grass  found  on  an  island,  the  crew 
must  have  perished  by  famine.  Considerable  dis- 
putes with  respect  to  the  steerage  arose  between  Ivet 
and  Bylot,  who  alone  had  any  pretensions  to  skill ; 
but  the  latter,  being  justly  viewed  with  the  greatest 
confidence,  at  length  guided  them  to  Cape  Digges, 
the  longed-for  spot,  the  breeding  place  of  fowls, 
clouds  of  which  accordingly  still  continued  to  darken 
the  air.  The  party  immediately  landed,  spread  them- 
selves among  the  rocks,  and  began  to  shoot.  While 
the  boa*  was  on  shore,  they  saw  seven  canoes  rowing 


•0 


■irai'.wmi- 


OTAGBS. 

afford  no  aid,  and 
rdensome.  They 
X,  with  some  pow- 

transaction  com- 
it  from  the  stem, 
off,  flying  as  from 
doned,  was  never 
rigator  undoubted- 
i  desolate  shores, 
3  distress  to  which 
inknown. 

iiilty  deed  was  ac- 
ti  a  captured  vessel, 

seizing  on  every 
iscovered.  Green, 
mmand,  used  some 
aced  the  cabin  and 
icket,  who  was  af- 
!ss  than  treason, — 
)read.  As  soon  as 
rueful  musings  be- 
ed  that  England  at 
nor  could  he  con- 
cp  the  high  sea  till. 
It  procure  a  pardon 
.  The  vessel  was 
jrtnight  amid  fields 
iround  it ;  and,  but 
n  island,  the  crew 

Considerable  dis- 
arose  between  Ivet 
etensions  to  skill; 
i  with  the  greatest 
n  to  Cape  Digges, 
g  place  of  fowls, 
lontinued  to  darken 
inded,  spread  them- 
n  to  shoot.  While 
iven  canoes  rowing 


EARLY  WORTH-WEST   V0TA0E8. 


189 


towards  them,  whereupon  "they  prepared  them- 
selves for  all  assayes."    However  the  savages  came 
forward,  beating  their  breasts,  dancing  and  leaping, 
with  every  familiar  and  friendly  sign.    The  utmost 
intimacy  commenced,  the  parties  went  backward  and 
forward,  showed  each  other  their  mode  of  catching 
fowls,  and  made  mutual  presents  and  exchanges.    In 
short,  these  appeared  the  most  kind  and  simple  peo- 
ple m  the  world,  and  «  God  so  blinded  Henry  Green," 
that  he  viewed  them  with  implicit  confidence.    One 
day,  amid  the  height  of  this  intimacy.  Pricket,  sitting 
in  the  boat,  suddenly  saw  a  man's  leg  close  to  him. 
Raising  up  his  head,  he  perceived  a  savage  with  a 
knife  uplifted  and  ready  to  strike.    In  attempting  to 
arrest  the  blow,  his  hand  was  cut,  and  he  could  not 
escape  three  wounds,  one  in  the  breast,  and  one  in 
the  right  thigh ;  by  which  time  he  got  hold  of  the 
handle  of  the  knife  and  wrenched  it  from  the  assassin, 
whom  he  then  pierced  with  his  dagger  in  the  left 
side.    At  the  same  time  a  general  attack  was  made 
on  the  English  crew,  dispersed  in  different  quarters. 
Green  and  Perse  came  tumbling  down  wounded  into 
the  boat,  which  pushed  off,  while  Moter,  "  seeing 
this  medley,"  leaped  into  the  sea,  swam  out,  and, 
gettmg  hold  of  the  stern,  was  pulled  in  by  Perse. 
Green  now  cried  coragio,  and  he  and  Perse  bran- 
dished their  weapons  with  such  vigour,  that  the 
savages  ceased  attempting  to  enter  the  boat;  but 
they  poured  in  clouds  of  arrows,  one  of  which  struck 
Green  with  such  force  that  he  died  on  the  spot,  and 
his  body  was  thrown  into  the  sea.    At  length  the 
party  reached  the  vessel ;  but  Moter  and  Wilson  died 
that  day,  and  Perse  two  days  after.    Thus  perished 
the  chief  perpetrators  of  the  late  dreadful  tragedy, 
visited  by  Providence  with  a  fate  not  less  terrible 
than  that  which  they  had  inflicted  on  their  illustrious 
unfortunate  victim. 

The  crew,  thus  deprived  of  their  best  hands,  were 
in  extreme  perplexity,  obliged  to  ply  the  ship  to  and 


I.IJIWP.W1H 


MM" 


tpe^ 


190 


BARLT  NORTH-WEST  T0TA0I8. 


fro  across  the  straits,  and  unable,  without  the  utmoAt 
fear  and  peril,  to  venture  on  shore ;  which  yet  was 
absolutely  necessary  for  obtaining  provisions  to  carry 
them  to  England.  They  contrived,  during  some 
anxious  and  unhappy  excursions,  to  collect  three 
hundred  birds,  which  they  salted  and  preserved  as 
the  only  stock  whereupon  to  attempt  the  voyage, 
'fhey  suffered,  during  the  passage,  the  most  dreadful 
extremities  of  famine,  allowing  only  half  a  fowl 
a-day  to  each  man,  and  considering  it  a  luxury  to 
have  them  fried  with  candles,  of  which  a  weekly  dis- 
tribution was  niade  for  that  purpose.  Ivet,  now  the 
Bole  survivor  of  the  ringleaders  in  the  late  dreadful 
transai^tion,  sunk  under  these  privations.  Tl»e  last 
fowl  was  in  the  steep-tub,  and  the  men  were  become 
careless  or  desperate,  when  suddenly  it  pleased 
God  to  give  them  sight  of  land,  which  proved  to  be 
the  north  of  Ireland.  They  complain  that  on  going 
ashore  at  Berehaven.they  did  not  meet  the  sympathy 
and  kindness  which  they  so  much  needed;  however, 
by  mortgaging  their  vessel,  they  obtained  the  means 
of  proceeding  to  Plymouth. 

Purchas  closes  the  narrative  by  saying, — "  Well, 
Mr.  Pricket,  I  am  in  much  doubt  of  thy  fidelity ;" 
and  he  is  not  singular  in  this  suspicion.  It  seems 
clear  that  this  person  did  not  avail  nimself  of  all  the 
means  by  which  he  might  have  attempted  to  check 
the  atrocious  mutiny.  Probably,  however,  had  he 
been  an  active  agent  in  the  crime,  he  would  have 
been  betrayed  by  some  of  his  accomplices;  or,  if 
they  had  been  all  bound  together  by  mutual  guilt, 
they  would  have  invented  some  story  which  would 
have  palliated  or  concealed  the  offence  altogether ; 
whereas  it  is  set  forth  by  this  narrative  in  all  its 
atrocity. 

Notwithstanding  the  calamitous  and  deplorable 
issue  of  tliis  voyage,  the  discovery  thereby  made  of 
a  great  open  sea  in  the  west  seemed  to  jus  y  the 
moBt  flattering  hopes  of  accomplishing  a  pas>sage. 


'osmmi^Mmmm.. 


without  the  utmost 
jre ;  which  yet  was 
^provisions  to  canry 
rived,  during  some 
IS,  to  collect  three 
d  and  preserved  as 
Itenipt  the  voyape. 
e,  the  most  dreadful 
[  only  half  a  fowl 
ering  it  a  luxury  to 
which  a  weekly  dis- 
ose.  Ivet,  now  the 
in  the  late  dreadful 
rivations.  Tlie  last 
e  men  were  become 
luddenly  it  pleased 
which  proved  to  be 
iplain  that  on  going 
;  meet  the  sympathy 
li  needed;  however, 
obtained  the  means 

by  saying,—"  Well, 
bt  of  thy  fidelity ;" 
uspicion.  It  seems 
il  himself  of  all  the 
attempted  to  check 
r,  however,  had  he 
ime,  he  avouM  have 
accomplices;  or,  if 
ler  by  mutual  guilt, 
:  story  which  would 
oflTenee  altogether; 
narrative  in  all  its 

JUS  and  deplorable 
ry  thereby  made  of 
emed  to  jus  y  the 
plishing  a  pacisage. 


EARLY  NORTH-WEiT  V0TA0S8. 


191 


To  follow  out  this  prospect.  Captain,  afterward  Sir 
Thomas  Button,  was  despatched  next  year  (1613), 
having  Bylot  and  Pricket  as  guides.  Button  seems 
to  have  been  an  active  and  resolute  seaman.  He 
soon  made  his  way  through  the  Straits,  and,  pushirg 
directly  across  the  great  sea  which  opened  to  the 
westward,  lie  came  in  view  of  an  insular  cape,  which 
he  called  Carey's  Swan's  Nest,  and  which aftervird 
proved  to  be  the  most  southern  point  of  Southamp- 
ton Island.  Nothing  else  broke  the  apparent  conti- 
nuity of  the  ocean,  and  he  cherished  sanguine  hopes 
that  the  first  coast  he  should  see  would  be  that  of 
Japan.  Suddenly  the  alarm  of  land  was  given, 
when  there  appeared  before  him  an  immense  range 
of  Arctic  coast,  stretching  north  and  south,  and  bar- 
ring all  further  progress.  Button,  deeply  disap- 
pointed, gave  to  it  the  name  of  Hope  Checked.  Be- 
fore he  had  time  to  look  for  an  opening,  the  gloom 
of  the  northern  winter  began  to  gather,  and  it  be- 
hooved him  to  seek  quarters  for  the  season.  These  )i(> 
found  in  the  same  creek  and  river,  which  afterward 
became  the  principal  settlement  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company.  In  spite  of  his  best  precautions,  he  lost 
several  men  through  the  severity  of  the  cold,  and 
was  unable  to  extricate  himself  from  the  ice  till  the 
middle  of  June.  He  then  steered  northward,  and 
sought  an  opening  through  the  broad  bay  between 
the  continent  and  Southampton  Island,  since  called 
Roe's  Welcome.  Seeing  this  chaimel,  however,  be- 
come narrower  and  narrower,  till  it  apparently  closed, 
he  gave  up  the  attempt,  and,  after  touching  at  several 
points  of  tlie  island  just  named,  returned  to  England. 
Although  Button  had  been  thus  baffled  by  the 
unwelcome  encounter  of  the  western  shore  of  Hud- 
son's Bay,  the  merchants  still  justly  considered  it 
by  no  means  ascertained  that  this  coast  was  so  ex- 
tensive and  continuous  as  to  preclude  all  passage 
into  the  ocean  beyond  America ;  they  lost  not  a  sea- 
son, therefore,  in  fitting  out  (1614)  two  vessels  under 


192 


EARLY  NORTH-WEST   TOTAOES. 


Captain  Gibbons,  an  officer  of  reputation,  pronounced 
by  Button  "  not  short  of  any  man  that  ever  yet  he 
carried  to  sea."  But  either  his  reputation  went  be- 
yond  his  merits,  or  fortune  was  singularly  adverse, 
for  never  was  there  a  more  abortive  voyage.  He  was 
early  entangled  in  a  bay  on  the  coast  of  Labrador,  in 
which  he  was  detained  the  whole  summer,  and  which 
was  afterward  dignified  with  the  appellation  of  "  Gib- 
bons his  Hole."  Having  liere  sustained  some  damage 
from  the  ice,  he  had  no  sooner  extricated  himself  than 
ht!  returned  home. 

The  merchant  adventurers,  still  undismayed,  sent 
out  next  summer  (1665)  the  Discovery  under  Bylot, 
who  in  all  tlie  late  voyages  had  approved  himself  a 
skilful  navigator,  and  was  accompanied  by  Baffin, 
whose  name  was  now  established  as  the  most  skilful 
steersman  and  best  nautical  observer  of  the  age. 
After  passing  Cape  Farewell,  they  saw  somu  most 
tremendous  islands  of  ice,  one  of  which  rose  240 
feet  above  water,  and,  according  to  the  usual  esti- 
mate,  which  makes  this  visible  part  only  a  seventh 
of  the  whole,  had  probably  an  entire  height  of  1680 
feet.  They  entered  the  Straits,  and  having,  on  the 
2d  June,  heard  from  tlie  northern  shore  a  tremen- 
dous barking  of  dogs,  landed  and  found  five  tents 
covered  with  seal-skin,  among  which  were  running 
about  thirty-five  or  forty  of  these  animals,  of  a 
brinded  black  colour,  resembling  wolves.  They  had 
collars  and  harness  suitable  for  certain  sledges,  lined 
with  fish-bone,  which  were  standing  by.  In  one  of 
the  houses  was  a  bag  with  little  images  o*"  men,  the 
only  notice  we  find  of  any  such  fabrication  upon  this 
coast.  The  navigators  soon  descried  a  canoe  with 
twenty  individuals,  whom  they  hailed  with  Greenland 
words  of  courteous  import,  holding  up  knives  and 
other  toys.  Friendly  salutations  were  given  in  return ; 
but  neither  party  chose  to  trust  themselves  within 
reach  of  the  other.  At  a  little  distance,  the  conflict 
of  opposite  currents  amid  large  icebergs  caused  so 


♦  ' 


roTAOES. 

utation,  pronounced 
n  that  ever  yet  he 
eputiition  went  be- 
singularly  adverse, 
e  voyage.  He  Wiis 
oast  of  Labrador,  in 
summer,  and  which 
iI)pellation  of  "  Gib- 
ained  some  damage 
ricated  himself  than 

1  undismayed,  sent 
overy  under  Bylot, 
ipproved  himself  a 
mpanied  by  Baffin, 
I  as  the  most  skilful 
iserver  of  the  age. 
ey  saw  somo  most 
of  which  rose  240 

to  the  usual  esti- 
art  only  a  seventh 
itire  height  of  1G80 
and  having,  on  the 
•n  shore  a  tremen- 
id  found  five  tents 
hich  were  running 
ese  animals,  of  a 
wolves.  They  had 
;rtain  sledges,  lined 
ing  by.  In  one  of 
images  o*"  men,  the 
ibrication  upon  this 
icried  a  canoe  with 
iled  with  Greenland 
ing  up  knives  and 
rere  given  in  return ; 

themselves  within 
istance,  the  conflict 
icebergs  caused  so 


EARtT  NORTH-WEST  VOTAOEB. 


103 


fearful  a  grmding,  that  they  gave  to  the  adjoining 
land  the  name  of  Mill  Island.  There  they  would 
have  been  in  extreme  danger  "  had  not  God,  who  is 
Ktrongor  than  ice  or  stream,"  deUvcred  them. 

The  policy  of  lUiot  in  this  voyage  seems  to  have 
I>een  to  keep  dos-     .  the  northern  shore  of  the  strait ; 
and  thus,  entering'   ludson's  Bay  at  a  higher  latitude, 
he  hoped  to  keep  clear  of  those  lands  which  had 
barred  the  westerly  career  of  his  predecessors.    On 
reaching,  therefore,  Hudson's  Isles  of  God's  Mercy, 
instead  of  steering  southward  to  Cape  Dudley  Digges, 
lie  proceeded  directly  west,  and  arrived  in  the  broad 
expanse,  afterward  called  the  Fox  Channel.     At 
length,  indeed,  he  saw  land,  but  it  was  bounded  by 
a  cape  which  had  every  appearance  of  being  the 
most  northerly  jwint  of  America.    He  called  it  Cape 
Comfort;  though  this  name  it  soon  appeared,  was 
premature,  for  a  single  day  had  not  elapsed,  when 
"  his  sudden  comfort  was  as  soon  quailed."    They 
were  now  on  the  eastern  coast  of  Southampton 
Island,  which  spread  on  every  side  its  almost  mea- 
sureless extent,  seeming  to  preclude  every  prospect 
of  an  opening  on  either  hand.    Disappointment,  the 
lateness  of  the  season,  and  tlie  pressure  of  the  ice, 
concurred  in  persuading  Bylot  that  there  was  nothing 
to  be  hoped  for  here,  and  determined  him  to  set  sail 
immediately  for  England ;  whither  he  carried  a  most 
unfavourable  report  as  to  any  prospect  of  penetratinir 
westward  in  that  direction. 

But  the  adventurers  were  not  discouraged  by  this 
unfavourable  result.  Turning  their  hopes  to  a  differ- 
ent quarter,  next  year  (1616)  they  again  fitted  o«t 
uylot  and  Baffin  with  instructions  no  longer  to  at- 
tempt the  passage  by  Hudson's  Bay,  but  to  enter 
the  fretwn  Davis  (Davis's  Straits),  and  push  due 
north  till  they  reached  lat  80°,  if  an  open  sea  should 
allow  them  to  proceed  so  far ;  then,  turning  to  the 
westward,  to  round,  if  practicable,  the  extreme  point 
of  America,  and  to  bear  down  upon  Japan.  Respect- 
R 


A,mm 


mmm 


194 


lARLT  HORTR-WSST  rOTAflSfl. 


ing  this  vojrage,  which,  perhaps,  of  all  those  to  the 
north,  produced  the  most  memorable  discoveries, 
Baffin  has  favoured  us  with  only  a  very  meager  nar- 
ration. Following  the  course  pointed  out,  he  reached, 
on  the  30th  May,  Hope  Sanderson,  the  farthest  point 
of  Davis's  progress.  Soon  afterward  the  expedition 
came  to  a  number  of  small  islands,  on  which  they 
found  only  females,  some  of  very  great  age.  These 
at  first  ran  and  hid  themselves  among  the  rocks; 
but  the  sailors  having  reached  two  dames,  one  of 
whom  was  estimated  at  fourscore,  and  having  pre- 
sented to  them  bits  of  iron  and  the  usual  toys,  the 
latter  carried  a  favourable  report  to  their  youthful 
countrj' women.  The  whole  party  soon  came  down 
to  the  shore,  and  four  even  went  on  board  tlw 
boat.  The  charms  of  these  ladies  were  heightened 
or  disfigured  by  long  black  streaks  made  in  their 
youth  with  a  sharp  instrument,  and  lodged  so  deep 
that  they  could  not  now  be  effaced.  It  was  observed, 
too,  that  the  dead  were  buried  merely  by  piling  stones 
over  them,  above  which  the  body  appeared,  secured, 
however,  from'  putrefaction  by  the  extreme  cold  of 
the  climate. .  The  navigators  sailed  onwards  in  lat. 
74°,  when  thiey  were  arrested  by  a  large  body  of  ice, 
and  obliged  to  turn  into  a  neighbouring  sound  to 
wait  its  melting.  Here  they  received  repeated  visits 
from  about  forty-two  natives,  the  only  account  of 
whom  is,  that  they  brought  an  extraordinary  quan- 
tity of  the  bones  of  sea-unicorns  or  narwals,  great 
numbers  of  which  were  seen  swimming  in  the  water. 
Hence  this  was  called  Horn  Sound.  The  mass  of 
ice  now  dissolved  before  the  powerful  influence  of 
the  sun,  and  the  discoverers  sailed  northwards  among 
its  fhigments ;  but  still,  snow  fell  every  day,  and 
the  8lux)uds  and  sails  were  often  so  hard  frozen 
as  to  make  it  impossible  to  handle  them.  In  76° 
they  came  to  a  fair  cape,  and  then  to  a  fair  sound, 
to  which  they  gave  the  respective  names  of  Diffges 
and  Wolstcaholme,  the  two  main  promoters  of  this 


OTAflSS. 

of  all  those  to  the 
orable  discoveries, 
a  very  meager  nar- 
ited  out,  he  reached, 
1,  the  farthest  point 
vard  the  expedition 
nds,  on  which  they 
'  great  age.  These 
among  the  rocks; 
two  dames,  one  of 
e,  and  having  pre- 
the  usual  toys,  the 
■t  to  their  youthful 
ty  soon  came  down 
irent  on  board  tlio 
es  were  heightened 
iaks  made  in  their 
ind  lodged  so  deep 
id.  It  was  observed, 
rely  by  piling  stones 
r  appeared,  secured, 
tie  extreme  cold  of 
lied  onwards  in  lat. 
a  large  body  of  ice, 
l^hbouring  sound  to 
jived  repeated  visits 
le  only  account  of 
ixtraordinary  quan- 
s  or  narwals,  great 
[nming  in  the  water, 
und.  The  mass  of 
iwerful  influence  of 
1  northwards  among 
fell  every  day,  and 
«n  so  hard  frozen 
idle  them.  In  76° 
len  to  a  fair  sound, 
^e  names  of  Digges 
a  promoters  of  this 


SARLT  NOnTK-WEST  VOTAQKS. 


105 


undertaking,  and  who.'^e  zeal  was  already  associated 
with  localities  in  the  .nterior  of  Hudson's  Straits. 
After  having  sustained  a  somewhat  severe  storm, 
the  expedition  discovered  another  sound,  which 
would  havcsupplied  them  with  a  multitude  of  whales 
had  they  been  duly  provided  with  the  means  of  cap- 
ture: this  they  called  Whale  Sound.  Next,  in  78°, 
appeared  another  inlet,  the  widest  and  greatest  in  all 
this  sea,  and  which  was  named  after  Sir  Thomas 
Smith,  one  of  the  main  promoters  of  discovery. 
This  opening,  which  Baffin  seems  to  have  examined 
very  superficially,  abounded  almost  equally  in  whales, 
and  caused  particular  astonishment  by  the  extraor- 
dinary aberration  of  the  needle,  to  which  nothing 
similar  had  been  ever  witnessed.  Between  these 
two  sounds  was  an  island  which  was  named  .Hak- 
luyt,  after  the  venerable  recorder  of  early  English 
discoveries.  Proceeding  now  along  the  south-west- 
em.boundary  of  this  great  sea,  the  next «'  fair  sound" 
received  the  name  of  Alderman  Jones,  another  patron 
of  these  laudable  pursuits.  It  may  be  remarked, 
that  Baffin  notices  all  these  inlets,  of  which  he  was 
the  first  -discoverer,  in  the  most  cursory  manner, 
without  mention  of  any  attempt  to  trace,  m  their  in- 
terior depths,  an  opening  into  any  sea  beyond.  In 
lat.  74°  there  appeared  another  broad  opening,  which 
was  called  Sir  James  Lancaster's  Sound;  but  while 
he  calls  it  great,  he  seems  scarcely  to  have  noticed 
tliis  future  entrance  into  the  Polar  Sea;  on  the  Con- 
trary, he  observes,  at  the  very  same  moment,  that 
the  hope  of  a  passage  became  every  day  less  and 
less.  He  sailed  on ;  but  a  barrier  of  ice  prevented 
him  from  approaching  the  shore  till  he  came  within 
the  "indraft" of  Cumberland's  Isles, "where  hope 
of  passage  could  be  none."  Finding  the  health  of 
his  crew  rather  declining,  he  sailed  across  to  Green- 
land, where  an  abundance  of  scurvy-grass  boiled  in 
beer  quickly  restored  them ;  and  "  the  Lord  then  sent 
a  speedy  aad  good  passage  homeward  " 


mmmmm 


106 


XARLir  N0RTH-WB8T  T07AOEf. 


On  returning,  he  expressed  tlie  most  decided  con- 
vii'tion  that  the  (jreat  sea  which  ho  had  travcrHed  was 
a  bay  enclosed  on  all  sides,  and  affording  no  orMjning 
into  any  ocean  to  the  westward ;  and  his  judgment 
was  received  by  the  public,  who  named  it  from  him 
Baffin's  Bay.  He  forcibly,  however,  represented  tho 
great  opportunities  which  it  afforded  for  the  whale- 
fishery,  as  those  huge  animals  were  seen  sleeping  in 
vast  numbers  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  witliont 
fear  of  the  ship  "  or  of  any  thing  elNC."  Davis's 
Straits,  accordingly,  have  ever  since  been  a  favourite 
resort  of  the  fisliers,  who  have  not,  liowever,  often 
ventured  into  those  high  latitudes,  where  whales  arc 
described  by  Baffin  as  more  peculiarly  abundant. 

There  was  now  a  pause  in  English  discovery; 
every  quarter  had  been  tried,  and  none  seemed  to 
afford  any  farther  promise.  Denmark,  however, 
which  has  always  felt  a  natural  interest  in  northern 
navigation,  made  an  attempt  to  follow  up  the  success 
of  Hudson  and  Baffin.  In  1619,  Christian  IV.  sent 
out  two  well-appointed  vessels  under  Jens  Munk, 
who  had  the  reputation  of  a  good  seaman.  He  suc- 
ceeded in  penetrating  through  Hudson's  Straits  into 
the  bay,  whereupon  he  took  upon  himself  to  change 
the  whole  nomenclature  of  that  region,  imposing  the 
names  of  Christian's  Straits  and  Christian's  Sea,  and 
calling  the  western  coast  New  Denmark.  But  this 
innovation,  which  was  contrary  to  every  principle 
recognised  in  such  cases,  has  not  been  confirmed  by 
posterity.  Wlien  September  arrived,  and  the  ice 
closed  in,  he  thought  it  prudent  to  seek  winter-quar- 
ters, and,  accordingly,  established  himself  in  the 
mouth  of  an  opening,  which,  it  is  highly  probable, 
was  that  channel  which  has  been  since  called  Ches- 
terfield Inlet.  The  season  seemed  to  open  with  the 
best  promise,  commodious  huts  were  constructed, 
and  there  were  both  abundance  and  variety  of  game. 
The  Danes  saw  some  of  those  brilliant  aerial  pheno 
mena  which  are  peculiar  to  those  latitudes ;  at  one 


iiism}*«« ' 


T07AOES. 

3  most  decided  con- 

0  had  travcrMnl  was 
ifTordin^  nu  o|)cning 
;  and  his  jud{arint-iit 
named  it  from  liim 

vcr,  represented  the 
rded  for  the  whale- 
ere  seen  sleeping  in 
the  water,  witliont 
ing  else."  Davis's 
uce  been  a  favourite 
not,  however,  often 
s,  where  wliales  aro 
Jiarly  abundant. 
Kiiglish  discovery; 
id  none  seemed  to 
)cnmark,  however, 
interest  in  northern 
How  up  the  success 
Christian  IV.  sent 
under  Jens  Munk, 

1  seaman.  He  sue- 
idson's  Straits  into 
I  himself  to  change 
egion,  imposing  the 
Christian's  Sea,  and 
)enmark.  But  this 
to  every  principle 
.  been  confirmed  by 
rived,  and  the  ice 
0  seek  winter-quar- 
ed  himself  in  the 
is  highly  probable, 
i  since  called  Chea- 
sd  to  open  with  the 

were  constructed, 
nd  variety  of  game. 
iUiant  aerial  pheno 
i  latitudes;  at  one 


KARLT  NORTR-WXST  TOTAOtS. 


197 


time  two,  and  at  another  three  sims  in  the  sky,  and  the 
moon  once  environed  by  a  transparent  circle,  within 
which  was  a  cross  cutting  through  its  centre ;  but, 
instead  of  amusing  their  minds  with  these  beautiful 
appearances,  they  were  depressed  by  viewing  them 
as  a  mysterious  presage  of  future  evils.  Frost  now 
set  in  with  all  its  intensity ;  their  beer,  wine,  and 
other, liquors  were  converted  into  ice;  the  scurvy 
began  its  ravages,  and,  ignorant  of  the  mode  of 
treating  it,  they  employed  no  remedy,  except  a  large 
quantity  of  spirits,  which  has  always  been  found  to 
aggravate  that  frightful  disorder.  Unfit  for  the  ex- 
ertion necessary  to  uenure  the  game  with  which  the 
country  abounded,  they  soon  had  famine  added  to 
their  other  distresses.  Their  miseries  seem  to  have 
been  almost  without  a  parallel,  even  in  the  dark  an- 
nals of  northern  navigation.  Munk  himself  was  left 
four  days  in  his  hut  without  food :  at  length,  having 
crawled  out,  he  found  that,  of  the  original  crew  of 
fifty-two,  no  more  than  two  survived.  He  and  they 
were  overjoyed  to  meet,  and  determined  to  make  an 
effort  to  preserve  life.  Gathering  strength  from  de- 
spair, they  dug  into  the  snow,  under  which  they 
found  herbs  and  grass,  which,  being  of  an  anti-scor- 
butic quality,  soon  produced  a  degree  of  amendment. 
Being  then  able  to  fish  and  shoot,  they  gradually  re- 
gained  their  natural  vigour.  The--  e  lipped  anew 
the  smaller  of  the  two  vessels,  in  w;..  jt  they  reached 
home,  on  the  25th  September,  1620,  after  a  stormy 
and  perilous  voyage.  Munk  declare '  his  readiness 
to  sail  again ;  and  there  are  various  reports  as  to  the 
cause  why  he  did  not.  Some  say,  that  having,  in  a 
conference  with  the  king,  been  stung  by  some  ex- 
pressions which  seemed  to  impute  the  disasters  of 
the  voyage  to  his  mismanagement,  he  died  of  a  broken 
heart.  But  Forster  relates,  that,  during  several  suc- 
cessive years,  he  was  employed  by  the  king  on  the 
North  Sea  and  in  the  Elbe,  and  that  he  died  in  1628, 
when  engaged  in  a  naval  expedition. 
R2 


108 


EARLY  NORTn-W»T  VOTAOZfi 


The  English,  nfter  Baffin's  expedition  appeared 
to  have  nhut  out  all  prospect  of  discovery  in  the  more 
northern  seas,  confined  for  a  long  time  all  their  ef> 
fort!  hi  the  direction  of  Hudson's  Bay.  As  these 
did  not  lead  to  any  important  results,  and  are  chiefly 
connected  with  the  remoter  settlements  of  America, 
vrc  shall  introduce  here  only  a  very  slight  sketch  of 
them. 

Captains  Fox  and  James  vrere  fitted  out  in  1631. 
The  /onner  examined  two  passages  leading  to  the 
northward,  one  on  the  western  side  of  Southampton 
Island,  called  Sir  Thomas  Koe's  Welcome ;  the 
other  on  the  eastern  side,  called  from  lumsclf  Fox's 
Channel ;  but  he  did  not  trace  cither  to  any  great 
height.  James,  entangled  in  the  southern  extremity 
of  Hudson's  Bay,  spent  a  winter  under  the  most  ex- 
treme suffering  from  cold,  and  returned  next  summer 
to  England. 

About  1668  a  settlement  was  formed  in  Hudson's 
Bay,  and  an  extensive  company  established  for  the 
traffic  in  furs;  but  this  association,  though  bound  by 
their  charter  to  make  the  most  strenuous  exertions 
for  the  discovery  of  a  western  passage,  concerned 
themselves  very  little  with  the  subject  till  1719,  when 
they  were  in  a  manner  compelled  to  fit  out  an  expe- 
dition under  Knight  and  Barlow.  These  officers, 
however,  never  returned,  and  a  vessel  sent  next  year 
under  Captain  Scroggs  could  learn  no  tidings  of  tliem. 
Nor  was  it  till  nearly  fifty  years  afterwanl  that  the 
wrecks  of  their  armament  were  found  on  Marble 
Island,  where  they^tppear  to  have  been  cast  ashore 
and  lost. 

In  1741,  after  a  long  interval,  Captain  Middleton, 
supported  by  a  gentleman  of  the  name  of  Dobbs,  ob- 
tained the  command  of  two  vessels,  with  which  he 
sailed  up  the  Welcome.  He  came  to  a  long  inlet 
called  the  Wager,  but  it  appeared  quite  enclosed  by 
land,  with  a  river  falling  into  it.  Proceeding  to  the 
northern  extremity  of  tlie  Welcome,  he  found  a 


T  -wiii'iTfrni 


VOTAOitt 

'xpedition  appeared 
JBcovery  in  the  more 
\g  time  all  tlieir  ef- 
m's  Bay.  As  these 
■lults,  and  are  chiefly 
lements  of  America, 
cry  slight  sketch  of 

!  fitted  out  in  1631. 
a^es  leading  to  tlie 
lide  of  Southampton 
le's  Welcome ;  the 
from  lumsclf  Fox's 
cither  to  any  great 
:  southern  extremity 
r  under  the  most  cx- 
!tumed  next  stunmer 

formed  in  Hudson's 
'  e9tahli«hed  for  the 
m,  thoiiffh  bound  by 
strenuous  exertions 
passage,  concerned 
ibjcct  till  1719,  when 
d  to  fit  out  an  expc- 
w.  These  ofUcers, 
'cssel  sent  next  year 
n  no  tidings  of  tliem. 
1  afterward  that  the 
re  found  on  Marble 
'e  been  cast  ashore 

Captain  Middleton, 
name  of  Dobbs,  o\h- 
sels,  with  which  he 
ime  to  a  long  inlet 
id  quite  enclosed  by 
Proceeding  to  the 
ilcome,  he  found  a 


■ARLT  NORTH'WCST  ▼OTAQIS. 


199 


spacious  opening,  that  afforded  at  first  the  greatest 
hopcH ;  but,  flhding  it  also  shut  in  bv  land,  he  named 
it  kepulso  Uay.  The  coast  then  taking  an  easterly 
direction,  he  followed  it  till  he  came  to  a  channel, 
which,  from  tiie  accnmtdation  of  ice  at  its  entrance, 
he  called  the  Frozen  Strait.  A  current  ran  through 
it,  which,  however,  appeared  to  him  to  be  merely  the 
one  that  had  entered  by  Hudson's  Straits,  and  pro- 
ceeded circuitously  round  Southampton  Island.  He 
returned  home,  expressing  a  decided  conviction  that 
no  practicable  passage  existed  in  that  direction. 

Mr.  Dobbs,  the  mover  of  the  expedition,  was 
deeply  disappointed  by  this  result;  and  from  his 
own  reflections,  and  tlie  statement  of  several  of  the 
inferior  oflioers,  became  convinced  that  Middleton 
had  given  a  very  false  and  imperfect  statement  of  the 
facts.  Of  this  he  so  fully  convin<!ed  both  the  Par- 
liinent  and  the  nation,  that  £10,000  was  subscribed 
for  a  new  expedition,  and  a  reward  of  £90,000  pro- 
mised to  the  discoverers  of  the  projected  passage. 
Captains  Moor  and  Smith,  in  106,  commanded  this 
armament,  which,  hke  many  of  those  ecjuipped  with 
peculiar  pomp  and  circumstance,  entirely  failed. 
They  merely  ascertained,  what  was  pretty  well 
known  before,  that  the  Wager  afforded  no  passage ; 
and,  after  spending  a  severe  winter  there,  returned 
next  season  to  England. 

It  appears,  by  notices  which  Mr.  Barrow  has  drawn 
from  the  Admiralty  records,  that  the  armed  brig 
Lion  was  sent  in  1776,  under  Lieutenant  Pickersgill, 
and  in  1777,  under  Lieutenant  Young,  with  the  view 
of  acting  in  concert  with  Captain  Cook,  who,  in  his 
third  voyage,  might,  it  was  hoped,  make  his  way 
round  from  Behring's  Straits  mto  the  Atlantic. 
These  officers  reached  respectively  the  latitudes  of 
68°  and  73°,  without  effectmg  or  almost  attemptmg 
any  thing  farther. 


MPnp 


soo 


MOINT  NOKTH>WIIT  TOTAOIf. 


CHAPTER  VIT. 

Recent  Voyages  for  the  Discovery  of  a  M'orth-wtst 
Passage. 

Britain  had  seen  other  nations  cany  off  nil  the 
ffreat  prizes  in  naval  dlHcovery.  She  had  scarrely  a 
vessel  on  the  ocean,  when  the  nations  of  the  Itierian 
|)eninsula  laid  open  new  worlds,  and  appropriated  the 
gokkn  treasures  of  the  east  and  of  tne  west.  Her 
energies  heinjif  once  roused,  her  efforts  were  from  the 
beginning  bold  and  adventurous,  thougli  sometimes 
made  with  inadequate  means,  on  a  small  scale,  and 
often  with  a  disastrous  issue.  Advancing,  however, 
with  regular  steps,  she  first  rivalled  and  finally  sur- 
passed all  other  modem  nationn.  The  reigns  of 
<5eorge  III.  and  of  his  eldest  Bon  formed  the  era 
which  decided  both  her  maritime  supremacy  and  her 
special  eminence  in  the  department  of  discovery. 
She  achieved  almost  entirely  the  exploration  of  the 
vast  expanse  of  the  South  Sea,  with  its  great  and 
numerous  islands,  leaving  to  the  rival  exertions  of 
France  only  a  scanty  gleanmg.  The  revolutionary 
war  for  some  time  attracted  exclusively  the  attention 
and  resources  of  the  nation ;  but  as  soon  as  a  series 
of  signal  triumphs  had  left  Britain  without  an  enemy 
to  contend  with  in  the  seas  of  Europe,  she  looked 
again  to  this  theatre  of  her  former  glory.  Even 
amid  the  din  of  arms,  the  African  Association  pur- 
sued their  enlightened  and  philanthropic  course ;  and 
the  important  and  brilliant  issues  to  which  it  had  led 
finally  induced  the  government  to  take  an  interest  in 
this  undertaking,  and  apply  to  it  resources  which  no 

E'vate  body  could  command.    Mr.  Barrow,  who,  by 
personal  observation,  had  illustrated  eome  of  tlie 


^Am 


TOTAOII. 


IT. 


ry  of  a  M'orth-wtit 

IB  carry  off  nil  the 

She  had  scarcj'ly  a 
tions  of  the  Idormn 
ind  appropriated  the 

of  tne  wont.  Her 
fforts  were  from  the 
,  thou(;li  Bometimes 

a  Bmnll  scale,  and 
dvancinjf,  however, 
led  and  finally  sur- 
vt.  Tho  reigns  of 
ion  formed  the  era 

Bupremacy  and  her 
ntient  of  discovery. 

exploration  of  the 
with  itR  frreat  and 

rival  exertions  of 

The  revolutionary 
isively  the  attention 

as  soon  as  a  series 
a  without  an  enemy 
Rurope,  she  looked 
rmer  glory.  Even 
n  Association  pur- 
hropic  course ;  and 
I  to  which  it  had  led 
I  take  an  interest  in 
resources  which  no 
[r.  Barrow,  who,  by 
atrated  eotue  of  tlia 


KKCINT  tfORTH-WKIIT  VOVAOII. 


sflr 


tnoni  important  qiisrters  both  of  this  and  of  other 
rontinenth,  took  tne  chief  liircciion;  prompting  aiH\ 
Rui(iiii<;  every  itep  with  an  eiier)(etic  perseverance 
ami  practical  Judtnncnt  which  had  never  been  ex- 
tended in  an  tM)tiul  dejpree  to  similar  objects.  Tim 
meaNiires  imdertaken  with  respect  to  Africa,  with 
their  varied  and  eventful  results,  do  not  come  within 
the  compass  of  the  present  work.  Iliit  when  lli« 
spirit  was  once  roused,  it  did  not  conflno  itself  to  a 
muiiUi  point.  The  northern  seas,  as  a  theatre  of  ad- 
venture, had  Iwen  unoccupied  fjr  half  a  century 
'I'hero  prevailed,  indeed,  a  ((encral  impreBsion,  that 
BO  many  expeditions  undertaken  in  vain  had  set  that 
ffrcat  (piestion  at  rest;  but  when  Mr.  Barrow  applied 
to  it  the  powers  of  his  vigorous  and  ijonctriitinff  Judg- 
ment, he  became  sensible  that  this  conclusion  was 
quite  groundless.  Baffin  had  once  sailed  round  that 
great  sea,  which  by  him,  and  from  him,  was  called  a 
bay  J  but  his  examination  had  been  quite  Buperflcial, 
and  insufficient  to  establish  that  continuity  of  land 
with  which  the  maps  had  so  thoroughly  enclosed  it. 
There  were  even  striking  facts  indicating  that  there 
was  a  communication  with  the  Greenland  sea  on  the 
one  side  and  tho  Polar  basin  and  tho  Pacific  Ocean  on 
the  other.  Even  in  regard  to  Hudson's  Bay,  no  pro- 
gress had  been  made  since  Parliament  had  offered  a 
reward  of  £20,000,  and  sent  out  the  large  expedition 
under  the  Captains  Moor  and  Smith.  Thus  the  grpnd 
question  in  which  the  country  had  long  taken  so  deep 
an  interest  was  Btill  open ;  and  to  decide  it  nothing 
more  seemed  necessary  than  that  skill  and  undaunted 
courage,  of  which  British  seamen  had  shown  them- 
selves so  eminently  possessed. 

In  1818,  the  Admiralty  fitted  out  two  expeditions; 
one  destined  for  the  discovery  of  the  north-west  pass- 
age, the  other  to  attempt  a  voyage  across  the  Pol& 
The  first,  which  is  the  one  we  are  at  present  to  follow 
confliBted  ol  ti  Isabella  of  385  tons,  commanded 
by  Captain  Johi:  Robs,  an  officer  of  reputation  and 


i-iam» 


S02 


RECENT  NORTH-VSaT  VOTAOZS 


experienced  who  had  twice  wintered  in  the  1:  Jtic,  had 
been  employed  in  surveying  th«  White  Sea,  and 
been  as  far  north  as  Bear  or  Cherie  Island.  Another 
vessel,  the  Alexander  of  258  tons,  was  commanded 
by  Lieutenant  Parry,  a  young  officer  of  rising  merit, 
who  has  since  amply  justified  the  choice  which  was 
made  by  his  employers. 

On  the  18th  April  the  vessels  dropped  down  the 
Thames,  and  by  the  end  of  the  month  were  off  the 
Shetland  Islands.  By  the  27th  May  they  came  in 
view  of  Cape  Farewell ;  round  whicH,  as  usual,  were 
floating  numerous  and  lofty  icebergs  of  the  most 
varied  forms  and  tints.  On  the  14th  June  they  reached 
the  Whale  Islands,  where  they  were  informed  by  the 
governor  of  the  Danish  settlement,  that  the  past 
win'er  had  been  uncommonly  severe,  the  neigh- 
bouring bays  and  straits  having  been  all  frozen  two 
months  earlier  than  usual,  and  that  some  of  the 
channels  northward  of  his  station  were  still  bound 
in  with  the  ice.  A  curious  statement  was  here  made, 
that  the  Esquimaux,  by  their  own  account,  could  see 
across  the  whole  breadth  of  the  bay,  though  not  less 
than  two  hundred  miles,  which  would  be  an  extra- 
ordinary instance  of  the  power  of  refraction;  but 
the  ice,  it  nray  be  observed,  often  presents  deceptive 
appearances  of  land  On  the  17th  June,  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Waygat  Island,  an  impenetrable 
barrier  obliged  the  discoverers  to  stop  their  course, 
making  themselves  fast  to  an  iceberg,  and  having 
forty-five  whale-ships  in  company.  Observations 
made  on  land  proved  this  island  to  be  misplaced  on 
the  maps  Inr  no  less  than  five  degrees  of  longitude. 
At  length  the  ice  attached  to  the  eastern  shore  broke 
up,  though  still  forming  a  continuous  and  impenetra- 
ble rampart  at  some  distance  to  the  westward,  in 
which  direction  it  had  drifted ;  but  in  the  intermediate 
space  they  were  enabled  to  move  forward  slowly 
along  the  coast,  labouring  through  narrow  and 
intricate  chatmels,  amid  mountains  and  loose  fragi 


MM* 


'  VOTAOZS 

ered  in  the  I:  <iltic,  had 
the  White  Sea,  and 
erie  Island.  Another 
ona,  was  commanded 
)fficerof  rising  merit, 
lie  choice  which  was 

ils  dropped  down  the 
month  were  off  the 
h  May  they  came  in 
whicH,  as  usual,  were 
zebergs  of  the  most 
4th  June  they  reached 
were  informed  by  the 
?ment,  that  the  past 
r  severe,  the  n^igh- 
•  been  all  frozen  two 
d  that  some  of  the 
ion  were  still  bound 
iment  was  here  made, 
irn  account,  could  see 
)  bay,  though  not  less 
would  be  an  extra- 
sr  of  refraction;  but 
m  presents  deceptive 
5  l7th  June,  in  the 
ind,  an  impenetrable 
to  stop  their  course, 
iceberg,  and  having 
pany.  Observations 
[  to  be  misplaced  on 
egrees  of  longitude. 
!  eastern  shore  broke 
luous  and  impenetia- 
to  the  westward,  in 
ut  in  the  intermediate 
ove  forward  slowly 
urough  narrow  and 
una  and  loose  frag< 


:^ffi 


fcEOSNT  NORTH-WSST  TOTAOES. 


ihents  of  ice.  They  steered  their  course,  however, 
to  the  higher  parts  of  the  bay,  and  in  about  lat.  75" 
cfune  to  a  coast  which  had  not  been  visited  by  former 
navigators.  They  were  stmck,  as  Baffin  Aad  been, 
by  the  great  number  of  whales  which  were  slum' 
bering  securely  in  these  deep  recesses,  never  having 
been  alarmed  by  the  harpoon.  On  the  7th  August, 
in  the  same  latitude,  a  heavy  gale  sprung  up,  and 
driving  the  ice  against  the  vessels,  made  a  display 
of  its  terrible  and  dangerous  power.  A  trial  of 
strength  ensued  between  the  ice  and  the  ships ;  being 
daslied  against  each  other  with  such  force,  that  the 
anchors  and  cables  were  successively  broken,  and  a 
boat,  which  could  not  be  withdrawn  from  between 
their  stems,  was  crushed  to  pieces.  Providentially, 
when  instant  destruction  was  expected,  the  icy  mass 
receded,  and  the  ships,  owing  to  the  extraordinary 
strength  of  their  construction,  escaped  without  m.a- 
terial  injury. 

Proceeding  along  a  high  mountainous  coast,  the 
expedition  came  to  a  tribe  of  Esc^uimaux,  who,  of 
all  human  beings,  seem  to  exist  m  a  state  of  the 
deepesl  seclusion.  They  had  never  before  seen  men 
belonging  to  the  civilized  world,  or  of  a  race  differ- 
ent  from  their  own.  The  first  small  party  whom 
the  navigators  approached  showed  every  sign  of  the 
deepest  alarm ;  heading,  as  was  afterward  under- 
stood, a  fatal  influence  from  the  mere  touch  of  these 
beings  of  an  tmknown  species.  Yet  they  seem  to 
have  felt  a  secret  attraction  towards  the  strangers, 
and  advanced,  holding  fast  the  long  knives  lodged 
in  their  boots,  and  looking  significantly  at  each 
other.  Having  come  to  a  chasm  which  separated 
them  from  the  English,  they  made  earnest  si^s  that 
only  Saccheous  the  interpreter,*  who  boie  a  certain 

*  Thia  yonng  man  wu  a  nntlve  of  Greenland,  who  had  aeeompanied 
the  ThomsB  and  Ann,  Captain  Newton,  one  of  the  Leilh  whalen,  on 
her  homeward  voyage  in  1816 ;  and  the  follcwing  year  he  went  out  to 
Ui«  fitliery,  returning  a  uecoud  Uuie  tu  Europe.    Uuiing  Uiii  period 


■WMMM 


-vriAMi'illM>W'TiMra'j>Mw»llMi 


204 


KECENT  NORTH-WSST  rOYAOM. 


resemblance  to  themselves,  should  come  across.  He 
went  forward  and  offered  his  hand.  They  shrunk 
back  for  some  time  in  alarm ;  at  length  the  boldest 
touched  H  and,  finding  it  Hesh  and  blood,  set  up  a 
loud  shout,  which  three  others  joined.  The  rest  of 
the  party  then  came  up,  to  the  number  of  eight,  witli 
60  dogs,  which  joined  with  their  masters  in  raising  a 
tremendous  clamor.  Ross  and  Parry  now  tliought 
it  time  to  come  forward.  This  movement  excited 
alarm,  and  a  tendency  to  retreat ;  but  Saccheous 
having  taught  these  officers  to  pull  their  noses,  this 
sign  of  amity  was  graciously  accepted.  A.  mirror 
was  now  held  up  to  them,  on  seeing  their  faces  m 
which  they  showed  the  most  extreme  astonishment ; 
they  looked  round  on  each  other  a  few  moments  in 
silence,  then  set  up  a  general  shout,  succeeded  by  a 
loud  laugh  of  delight  and  surprise.  The  ship  was 
then  the  next  object  of  their  speculation.  They  be- 
gan by  endeavouring  to  ascertain  its  nature  by  inter- 
rogating itself;  for  they  conceived  it  to  be  a  huge 
bird  spreading  its  vast  wings  and  endowed  with 
reason.  One  of  them,  pulling  his  nose  with  the 
utmost  solemnity,  began  an  address, "  Who  are  you  ? 
Whence  come  jrou  J  Is  it  from  the  sun  or  the  moon  1" 
The  ship  remaining  silent,  they  at  length  applied  to 
Saccheous,  who  assured  them  that  it  was  a  frame  of 
timber,  the  work  of  human  art.  To  them,  however, 
who  had  never  seen  any  wood  but  slight  twigs  and 
stunted  heath,  its  immense  planks  and  masts  were 
objects  of  amazement.     What  animal,  they  also 

being  intelligent  an4  docile,  be  made  no  meiin  proficiency  In  a  course 
of  elementary  •tudy,  In  the  pnw.ntlon  of  wliicli  lie  received  every  ae- 
iUtanee  fVom  Iiis  Menda  in  Leith.  On  the  equipment  of  the  Arctic 
eipedition,  liia  wiahei  to  accompany  the  diacnvery  glilpa  having  been 
communicated  to  government  through  the  medium  of  Captain  Raiil 
Hall,  he  was  Immediately  engaged  as  interpreter.  His  servires  in  tliat 
capacity,  as  tbe  narrative  sbowa,  were  of  eminent  utility ;  and,  on  hie 
return,  the  Admhraity,  deeirous  to  have  hira  property  instructed,  in  ilie 
event  of  a  future  ez|ieditinn,  lem  liim  to  Edinburgh  for  that  purpose. 
Here,  liowever,  in  tlw  ensuing  spring,  be  was  iinronunstely  atlucked 
wilb  u  Inflaiuautoiy  fvvctr,  wbicb  carried  Um  off  in  a  few  day* 


iiiimMiiniwwii  nm— iDiw— iMiAi 


teJSSj?IESti5&:r: 


Wifi'fifiiia'Wri 


r  roYAOii. 

uld  come  across.  He 
hand.  They  shrunk 
It  length  the  boldest 
I  and  blood,  set  up  a 
joined.  The  rest  of 
number  of  eight,  witli 
r  masters  in  raising  a 
1  Parry  now  thought 
is  movement  excited 
eat ;  but  Saccheous 
pull  their  noses,  this 
accepted.  A  mirror 
seeing  their  faces  m 
Ureine  astonishment ; 
er  a  few  moments  in 
hout,  succeeded  by  a 
prise.  The  ship  was 
Bculation.  They  be- 
in  its  nature  by  inter- 
ived  it  to  be  a  huge 

and  endowed  with 
;  his  nose  with  the 
ress, "  Who  are  you  ? 
he  sun  or  the  moon  1" 
at  length  applied  to 
liat  it  was  a  frame  of 

To  them,  however, 
but  slight  twigs  and 
nks  and  masts  were 
t  animal,  they  also 

leim  proficiency  In  a  course 
ivliicli  lie  received  every  as- 
le  equipment  of  the  Arctic 
lincnvery  glilpB  having  been 
I  medium  of  C'Rptain  Raiil 
|)reter.  His  services  in  ilist 
iminent  utility ;  nnd,  on  hii 
■  pc<^rly  Instructed,  In  die 
SdlnburiD  for  that  purpose, 
nras  iinrortunitely  atlaiked 
Uu  off  in  a  f«w  dayi 


RXOBNT  N0&TH>WS8T  VOTAOM. 


208 


asked,  could  funish  those  enormous  ikitu  which 
were  spread  for  the  sails.  Their  admiration  was 
soon  followed  by  a  desire  to  possess  some  of  the 
objects  which  met  their  eyes,  but  with  little  cere- 
mony or  dis  "imination  as  to  the  means  of  effecting 
their  end.  They  attempted  first  a  spare  topmast, 
then  an  anclior ;  and  tiiese  proving  too  ponderous, 
one  of  them  tried  the  siqith's  anvil ;  but,  finding  it 
fixed,  made  off  at  least  with  the  large  hammer. 
Another  wonder  for  them  was  to  see  the  sailors 
mounting  to  the  topmast ;  nor  was  it  without  much 
hesitation  that  they  ventured  their  own  feet  in  the 
shrouds.  A  little  terrier  dog  appeared  to  them  a 
contemptible  object,  wholly  unfit  for  drawing  burdens 
or  being  yoked  in  a  sledge,  while  the  grunt  of  a  hog 
filled  them  with  alarm. 

This  tribe,  in  features,  form,  and  even  language, 
belong  evidently  to  the  Esquimaux,— a  race  widely 
diffused  over  aH  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  ocean.  They 
appear  to  have  little  or  no  communication  with  the 
rest,  and  amid  fhe  genetal  resemblance  have  some 
distinguishing  characters.  The  boat,  large  or  small, 
which  we  almost  instinctively  associate  with  our 
idea  of  the  Greenlander,  is  here  wholly  unknown. 
Much  of  their  food  is  found  within  the  deep,  but  is 
procured  merely  by  walking  over  tiie  lev  surface, 
which  incrusts  it  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year. 
Yet  they  have  one  important  advantage,  not  only 
ove^r  other  Esquimaux,  but  over  the  most  civilized 
of  the  native  Arnericaos.  The  country  swords  iron, 
which,  beiitg  flattened  by  sharp  stones,  and  inserted 
in  a  handle  made  of  the  horn  of  the  sea-unicorn, 
forms  knives  much  more  e£5cient  than  those  framed 
of  bone  by  the  neighbouring  hordes.  Again,  unlike 
the  other  tribes,  they  have  a  king,  who  rules  seem- 
ingly with  gentle  sway;  for  they  described  him  as 
strong,  veiy  good,  and  very  much  beloved.  The  dis- 
coverers du)  not  visit  the  court  of  this  Arctic  jwten- 
tate ;  but  they  understood  tiiat  he  drew  a  tribute, 
S 


* 


.  ■wgaTtawarr<arrrgaaim-. 


306 


RICKNT  KORTRkWEST  VOTAOSS. 


consitting  of  train-oil,  seal-skins,  and  the  bone  of- 
the  unicorn.  Like  other  Greeidanders,  they  had 
sledges  drawn  by  large  and  powerful  teams  of  dogs ; 
their  chase  was  ciiiefly  confined  to  hares,  foxes  of 
various  colours,  the  seal,  and  the  narwd.  They  re- 
jected with  horror  the  perverted  luxuries  of  biscuit, 
Bweatmeats,  or  spirits ;  train-oil,  as  it  streamed  from 
the  seal  and  the  unicorn,  alone  gratified  their  palate. 
Captain  Ross,  swayed  by  national  impressions,  gave 
to  this  tribe  the  name  of  Arctic  Highlanders. 

In  the  northern  part  of  this  coast  the  navigators 
observed  a  remarkable  phenomenon, — a  range  of 
cliffs,  the  snowy  covering  of  which  had  exchanged 
its  native  white  for  a  tint  of  dark  crimson.  This 
red  snow  was  not  only  examined  on  the  spot,  but  a 

{)ortion  of  it  was  broug^  o  England,  and  was  ana- 
yzed  by  the  most  learned  men  both  at  home  and 
abroad,  who  have  entertained  various  opinions  as 
to  the  origin  of  the  colour.  The  latest  observations, 
as  elsewhere  observed,  have  established  its  vegetable 
origin.  * 

Having  now  passed  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  Captain 
Ross  found  himself  among  those  spacious  sounds 
which  Baffin  had  named,  but  so  imperfectly  de- 
scribed. He  seems,  however,  to  have  followed  the 
same  hasty  method.  On  looking  up  an  inlet  or 
opening,  and  seeing  it,  at  whatever  instance,  appa- 
rently closed  by  land,  he  pronounced  it  at  once  a 
bay,  and  deemed  farther  investigation  superfluous. 
Too  much  importance  seems  also  to  have  been 
attached  to  barriers  of  ice,  which  in  many  cases  were 
only  temporary.  He  sailed  past  Wolstenholme  and 
Whale  Sounds  very  quickly,  without  approaching 
even  their  entrance ;  concluding  them  to  be  blocked 
up  with  ice,  and  to  afford  no  hope  of  a  passage.  As 
these  openings  stretched  towaras  the  north,  it  must 
be  admitted  that  they  could  not  m  this  high  latitude 
be  considered  very  fovourable  as  to  a  western  route. 
He  came  next  to  Sir  Thomas  Smith's  Sound,  whiclb 


!*-''^T~Tr^-'''^'^^''K^yrr  '^rci'rrnxT.'t": 


E-^;33?I3?.^*eLT:;sii.i.-'iiis;;-^ 


£i3»ni«fi*^^i?^i.^!^*4wifeii^wkv4!-A^^ 


-^■- 


MBSfeiL... 


roTAosa. 

I,  and  the  bone  of 
danders,  they  had 
rful  teams  of  dogs ; 
to  hares,  foxes  of 
narwal.  They  re- 
luxuries  of  biscuit, 
18  it  strea:ined  from 
atified  their  palate. 
1  impressions,  gave 
Tightanders. 
>a8t  the  navigators 
enon, — a  range  of 
ich  had  exchanged 
rk  crimson.  'Hiis 
I  on  the  spot,  but  a 
land,  and  was  ana- 
both  at  home  and 
arious  opinions  as 
latest  observations, 
lished  its  vegetable 

ey  Digges,  Captain 
s  spacious  sounds 
10  imperfectly  de- 
have  followed  the 
\g  up  an  inlet  or 
i^er  (ustance,  appa- 
mced  it  at  once  a 
^tion  superfluous. 
Iso  to  have  been 
n  many  cases  were 
Wolstenholme  and 
thout  approaching 
hem  to  be  blocked 
of  a  passage.  As 
I  the  north,  it  must 
1  this  high  latitude 
to  a  western  route, 
ith's  Sound,  which 


BIOINT  NORTH-WEST  TOTAeES. 


20? 


we  may  recoUsct  Baffin  to  have  described  as  the 
most  spacious  and  promising  in  the  whole  circuit  of 
these  coasts.  It  was  viewed  with  greater  attention ; 
but  Captain  Ross  considered  himself  as  having  dis- 
tinctlv  seen  it,  at  the  distance  of  eighteen  leagues, 
completely  enclosed  by  land.  The  space  appears  too 
great  for  so  positive  an  inference,  and  the  belief  that 
ice  barred  its  entrance  seems  to  have  been  adopted 
on  very  sUght  grounds.  He  came  next  to  a  spacious 
bay,  which  had  hitherto  been  unknown  and  unob- 
served,—afterward  to  that  which  Baffin  had  called 
Alderman  Jones's  Sound ;  but  in  respect  to  both,  the 
ice  at  their  entrance,  and  the  apparent  boundary  of 
high  land  in  the  interior,  led,  as  in  the  other  in- 
stances, to  a  prompt  and  unfavourable  conclusion. 

The  season  was  now  somewhat  advanced,  the 
end  of  August  approached,  the  sun  set  after  a  per- 
petual day  of  two  months  and  a  half,  and  a  thick 
fogrend|red  the  lengthening  nights  more  gloomy. 
The  land,  seen  at  some  distance,  consisted  of  very 
high  and  steep  mountains,  presenting,  however, 
some  spots  fit  for  human  habitation.  An  opening, 
forty-five  nules  wide,  to  the  southward  of  a  promon- 
tory which  was  named  Cape  Chariotte,  was  decided 
against  m  the  usual  summary  manner.  On  the 
30th  August,  the  expedition  cwne  to  a  most  mag- 
nificent inlet,  bordered  by  lofty  mountains  of  peculiar 
grandeur,  while  the  water,  being  clear  and  free  from 
ice,  presented  so  tempting  an  appearance  that  it  was 
impossible  to  refrain  from  entering.  This  channel, 
which  soon  proved  to  be  the  Lancaster  Sound  of  Baf- 
fin, was  ascended  for  thirty  miles ;  during  which  run 
officers  and  men  .crowded  the  topmast,  filled  with 
enthusiastic  hope,  and  judging  that  it  afforded  much 
fairer  hopes  of  success  than  any  of  those  so  hastily 
passed.  Captain  Ross  however,  and  those  whom 
he  consulted,  never  showed  those  sanguine  expecta- 
tions. He  soon  thought  that  he  discovered  a  high 
lidge  stretching  directly  across  the  inlet  i  and  though 


m 


20S 


RBCKNT  NORTH-WEST  TOTAOII. 


8  great  part  of  it  was  deeply  involved  in  mist,  yet 
a  passage  in  this  direction  was  judi^ed  to  be  hope- 
less. The  sea  beinjif  open,  however,  the  commander 
proceeded ;  but  about  twelve  o'clock  Mr.  Beverley, 
the  assistant-surgeon,  came  down  from  the  crow's 
nest,  stating,  that  he  had  seen  the  land  stretching 
venr  nearly  across  the  entire  bay.  Hereupon,  it  is 
said,  all  hopes  were  renounced,  even  by  the  most 
sanguine,  and  Captain  Ross  sailed  onward  merely  for 
the  purpose  of  making  some  magnetical  observa- 
tions. 

At  three  o'clock,  the  sky  having  cleared,  the 
commander  himself  went  on  deck,  when  he  states 
that  he  distinctly  saw  across  the  bottom  of  the  bay 
a  chain  of  mountains  continuous  and  connected 
with  those  which  formed  its  opposite  shores.  The 
weather  then  becoming  unsettled,  he  made  the  sig- 
nal to  steer  the  vessels  out  of  Lancaster  Sound, 
lieutenant  Parry,  however,  declares  that  to  him,  in 
the  Isabella,  this  signal  appeared  altogether  myste- 
rious, being  himself  full  of  the  most  sanguine  ex- 
pectations, and  seeing  no  ground  whatever  for 
this  abrupt  retreat;  but  his  duty  obliged  him  to 
follow. 

On  regaining  the  entrance  of  this  great  channel. 
Captain  Ross  continued  to  steer  southward  along  the 
western  shore  of  Baffin's  Bay  and  Davis's  Strait,  with- 
out seeing  any  entrance  which  afforded  equal  pro- 
mise.  Cumberland  Strait  alone  was  similar  in  mag- 
nitude; but  it  could  lead  only  into  the  higher  lati- 
tudes  of  Hudson's  Bay,  and  afforded  thus  little  chance 
of  a  free  passage  into  the  Arctic  sea.  After  survey 
ing,' therefore,  some  of  these  shores,  he  returned 
home  early  in  October, 

The  Captain  arrived  in  England  under  the  most 
decided  conviction,  that  Baffin's  observations  had 
been  perfectly  correct,  and  that  Lannacter  Sound 
waa  a  bay,  affording  no  entrance  into  any  western 
•ea.    If  even  any  strait  existed  between  Uie  moun* 


riMih 


'  TOTAflSS. 

ivolved  in  mist,  yet 
judged  to  be  hope- 
ver,  the  commanaer 
dock  Mr.  Beverley, 
wn  from  the  crow's 
the  land  stretchinj^ 
ly.  Hereupon,  it  is 
I,  even  by  the  most 
d  onward  merely  for 
oagnetical  observa- 

laving*  cleared,  the 
!ck,  when  he  states 
bottom  of  the  bay 
>us  and  connected 
osite  shores.  Tho 
1,  he  made  the  sig- 
f  Lancaster  Sound, 
ares  that  to  him,  in 
1  altogether  myste* 
most  sanguine  ex- 
•und  whatever  for 
ity  obliged  him  to 

this  great  channel, 
muthward  along  the 
Davis's  Strait,  with- 
afforded  equal  pro- 
Rras  similar  in  mag- 
nto  the  higher  lati. 
ed  thus  little  chance 
tea.  After  survey 
hores,  he  returned 

ind  under  the  most 
3  observations  had 
t  Lancai>ter  Sound 
s  into  any  western 
wtween  the  moun* 


Monrr  nokth-west  roTAiixa. 


S09 


tains,  it  must,  he  conceived,  be  for  ever  innavi- 
gable on  account  of  the  ice  with  which  it  is  filled. 
The  intelligeni  individuals,  however,  who  had  fitted 
out  the  expedition  with  such  zeal  and  on  so  great 
a  scale,  felt  deep  dissatisfaction  both  at  this  con- 
clusion and  at  the  premises  from  which  it  had  been 
drawn.  The  grounds,  in  particular,  on  which  Lan- 
caster Sound,  an  opening  so  noble  and  so  spacious, 
and  ir  a  position  so  favourable  in  respect  to  west- 
em  discovery,  had  been  so  abruptly  quitted,  ap- 
peared wholly  inadmissible.  The  same  opinion  was 
very  decidedly  espoused  by  several  of  the  officers, 
and  especially  by  Lieutenant  Parry,  who  was  second 
in  command,  but  had  never  been  consulted  on  the 
occasion,  and  who  declared  the  relinquishment  of 
all  attempt  at  discovery  at  that  crisis  to  be  in  his 
eyes  completely  unaccomitable.  It  was  determined 
in  short,  that  a  fresh  expedition  should  be  equipped 
and  intrusted  to  Mr.  Parry,  that  he  might  fulfil,  if 
possible^  his  own  sanguine  hopes  and  those  of  his 
employers.  He  was  furnished  with  the  Hecla  of 
375  tons,  and  a  crew  of  fifty-eight  men ;  and  with 
the  Griper  gun-brig  of  180  tons,  and  thirty-six  men, 
commanded  by  Lieutenant  Liddon.  These  ships 
were  made  as  strong  and  as  well-fitted  as  possible 
for  the  navigation  of  the  Arctic  seas ;  and  were 
stored  with  ample  provisions  for  two  years,  a  copious 
supply  of  antiscorbutics,  and  every  Uiing  which 
cotud  enable  the  crews  to  endure  the  most  extreme 
rigours  of  a  Polar  winter. 

Lieutenant  Parry,  destined  to  outstrip  all  his 
predecessors  in  the  career  of  Arctic  discovery  ,weigheA 
anchor  from  the  Nore  on  the  11th  May  (1819),  anj 
on  the  SOth  rounded  the  most  northerly  pomt  of 
the  Orkneys.  He  endeavoured  to  cross  the  Atlantic 
about  the  parallel  of  58°,  and  though  impeded  during 
the  first  fortnight  of  June  by  a  series  of  unfavourable 
weather,  obtained  on  the  15tli,  from  the  distance 
apparently  of  not  less  than  forty  leagues  a  view  of 

S3 


«10 


RSCENT  KORTH-WCST  VOTAOBt. 


the  lofty  cliffs  composing  Cape  Farewell.  On  the 
18th  the  ships  first  fell  in  with  icebergs,  the  air 
being  also  tiUed  with  petrels,  kittiwaJkes,  tema, 
and  other  winged  inhabitants  of  the  northern  sky. 
Parry  now  made  an  effort  to  push  north  and  west, 
through  the  icy  masses,  in  the  direction  of  Lan- 
caster Sound ;  but  these  suddenly  closed  upon  him ; 
and  on  the  25th  the  two  ships  '.vere  so  immove- 
ably  beset,  that  no  power  could  turn  their  heads  a 
single  point  of  the  compass.  The  vessels  remained 
thus  fixed,  but  safe,  when,  on  the  morning  of  the 
second  day,  a  heavy  roll  of  the  sea  loosened  the 
ice,  and  drove  its  masses  against  them  with  such 
violence  that  only  their  very  strong  construction 
■aved  them  from  severe  injury.  The  discoverers 
therefore  were  fain  to  extricate  themselves  as  soon 
as  possible ;  and,  resigning  the  idea  of  reaching  Lan- 
caster Sound  by  the  most  direct  route,  began  to 
coast  northward  along  the  border  of  this  great  icy 
field,  till  they  should  rind  open  water.  In  this  pro- 
gress they  verified  the  observation  of  Davis,  that  in 
the  narrowest  part  of  the  great  sea,  misnamed  his 
Strait,  the  shores  on  each  side  could  be  discovered 
at  the  same  moment.  Thus  they  proceeded,  till 
they  reached  the  Women's  Islands,  and  Hope  San- 
derson, in  about  latitude  73°.  As  every  step  was 
now  likely  to  carry  them  farther  from  their  destina- 
tion, Parry  determined  upon  a  desperate  push  to  the 
westward.  Favoured  with  a  moderate  breeze,  the 
ships  were  run  into  the  detached  pieces  and  floes  of 
ice,  through  which  they  were  heaved  with  hawsers; 
but  the  obstacles  became  always  heavier,  till  they 
were  completely  beset,  and  a  heavy  fog  coming  on, 
made  thei..  little  able  to  take  advantage  of  any 
favourable  change.  Yet  in  the  course  of  a  week, 
though  repeatedly  and  sometimes  dangerously  beset, 
they  warped  their  way  from  lane  to  lane  of  open 
water,  till  only  one  lengthened  floe  separated  them 
from  a  wide  open  sea  to  the  westward.    Bylabo- 


VOTAOM. 

I  Farewell.  On  the 
I  icebergs,  the  air 
,  kittiwakes,  terns, 
r  the  northern  sky. 
J8h  north  and  west, 

direction  of  Lan- 
ly  closed  upon  him ; 

were  bo  immove- 

tum  their  heads  a 
le  vessels  remained 
the  mominii?  of  the 
)  sea  loosened  the 
i8t  them  with  such 
strong;  construction 
^  Trie  discoverers 
themselves  as  soon 
lea  of  reaching  Lan* 
ct  route,  began  to 
er  of  this  great  icy 
rater.  In  this  pro- 
an  of  Davis,  that  in 

sea,  misnamed  his 
!ould  be  discovered 
hey  proceeded,  till 
ids,  and  Hope  San- 

As  every  step  was 
'  from  their  destina- 
operate  push  to  the 
oderate  breeze,  the 

pieces  and  floes  of 
;aved  with  hawsers; 
jrs  heavier,  till  "they 
;avy  fog  coming  on, 

advantage  of  any 
course  of  a  week, 
3  dangerously  beset, 
ne  to  lane  of  open 
floe  separated  them 
restwara.    By  labo- 


RKCBNT  NORTR-WXST  V0TA0K8. 


211 


riously  sawing  through  this  obstruction,  they  were 
nble  to  penetrate  finally  the  great  icy  barrier,  and  saw 
the  western  shore,  clear  of  ice,  extending  before  them. 

The  navigators  now  bore  directly  down  upon  Lan- 
caster Sound,  and  on  the  30th  July  found  them- 
selves at  its  entrance.  They  felt  an  extraordinary 
emotion  as  they  recognised  this  magnificent  chan- 
nel, with  the  lofty  cliflfis  by  which  it  was  guarded, 
aware  that  a  very  short  time  would  decide  the  fate 
of  their  grand  undertaking.  They  were  tantalized, 
however,  by  a  fresh  breeze  coming  directly  6ovfTi 
the  Sound,  which  suffered  them  to  make  only  very 
slow  progress.  There  was  no  appearance,  however, 
of  obstruction  either  from  ice  or  land,  and  even  the 
heavy  swell  which  came  down  the  inlet,  driving  the 
water  repeatedly  in  at  the  stem-windows,  was  hailed 
as  an  indication  of  open  sea  to  the  westward.  The 
Hecla  loft  the  Griper  behind,  but  still  without  maJc- 
ing  any  great  way  herself  till  the  3d  August,  when 
an  easterly  breeze  sprung  up,  carrying  both  vessels 
rapidly  forward.  A  crowd  of  sail  was  set,  and  they 
pushed  triumphantly  to  the  westward.  Their  minds 
were  filled  with  anxious  hope  and  suspense.  The 
mast-heads  were  crowded  with  ofllcers  and  men, 
and  the  successive  reports  brought  down  from  the 
topmast  pinnacle,  called  the  crow's  nest,  were  eagerly 
listened  to.  Their  course  was  still  unobstructed. 
They  passed  various  headlands,  with  several  wide 
openings  towards  the  north  and  south,  which  they 
hastily  named  Croker  Bay,  Navy  Board  Inlet,  &c. ; 
but  these  it  was  not  their  present  object  to  explore.' 
The  wind,  freshening  more  and  more,  carried  tliero 
happily  forward,  till  at  midnight  they  found  them- 
selves in  longitude  83°  IS*,  nearly  a  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  grand  inlet,  which 
still  retained  a  breadth  of  fifty  miles.  The  success 
of  the  expedition,  they  fondly  hoped,  was  now  to  a 
great  extent  decided. 

The  Hecla,  at  this  time,  slackened  her  course  to 


MMHIIIi 


212 


uoniT  NOKTH''wa»r  votasm. 


aUow  her  companion  to  come  up,  which  she  did  la' 
longitude  85°.  They  together  proceeded  to  lonri- 
tude  86°  W,  and  found  two  other  inlets,  which 
they  named  Burnet  and  Stratton  5  then  a  bold  cape 
named  Fellfoot,  forming  apparently  the  termination 
of  this  long  line  of  coast.  The  lengthened  swell 
which  still  rolled  in  from  the  north  and  west,  with 
the  oceanic  colour  of  the  waters,  inspired  the  flat- 
tering hope  that  they  had  already  passed  the  region 
of  straits  and  inlets,  and  were  now  wafted  along  the 
wide  expanse  of  the  Polar  basin.  Notliing,  in  short, 
it  was  hoped,  would  henceforth  obstruct  their  pro- 

Kess  to  Icy  Cape,  the  western  boundary  of  America. 
»  alarm  of  land  was  given,  but  it  proved  to  arise 
only  from  an  island  of  no  great  extent.  However, 
more  land  was  soon  discovered  beyond  Cape  Fell- 
foot,  which  was  ascertained  to  be  the  entrance  to  a 
noble  bav,  extending  on  their  right,  which  they  named 
Maxwell  Bay.  An  uninterrupted  range  of  sea  still 
stretched  out  before  them,  though  tliey  were  some- 
what discomposed  by  seeing  on  the  south  a  line  of 
continuous  ice ;  but  it  left  an  open  route  before  them, 
and  they  hoped  to  And  it  merely  a  detached  stream.  A 
uttle  space  onwards,  however,  they  discovered,  with 
deep  dismav,  tiiis  ice  to  be  Joined  to  a  compact  and 
impenetrable  body  of  floes,  which  completely  crossed 
the  channel,  and  joined  the  western  point  of  Max- 
well Bay.  It  behooved  them,  therefore,  immediately 
to  draw  back,  to  avoid  being  embayed  in  ice,  along 
ttie  edges  of  which  a  violent  surf  was  then  beating. 
The  officers  began  to  amuse  themselves  with  fruitless 
attempts  to  catch  white  whales,  when  the  weather 
cleared,  and  they  saw  to  the  south  an  open  sea  with 
a  aark  water-sky.  Pany,  hoping  that  this  might 
Jead  to  a  free  passage  in  a  lower  latitude,  steered 
m  this  direction,  and  found  himself  at  the  mouth 
of  a  great  inlet,  ten  leagues  broad,  with  no  visible 
termmation;  and  to  the  two  cs^es  at  its  entrance  h« 
gave  the  names  of  Clarence  and  Se^ungs 


rOTAOM. 

>,  which  she  did  in' 
)rocee(led  to  loitfii- 
)(her  inlets,  which 
1 ;  then  a  bold  cape 
tlythe  termination 
B  lengthened  swell 
Jrth  and  west,  with 
8,  inspired  the  flat- 
y  passed  the  region 
w  wafted  along  the 
Nothing,  in  short, 
obstruct  their  pro- 
undary  of  America, 
it  proved  to  arise 
extent.  However, 
bevond  Cape  Fell- 
e  the  entrance  to  a 
t,  which  they  named 
I  range  of  sea  still 
rh  they  were  some- 
the  south  a  line  of 
I  route  before  them, 
letaehed  stream.  A 
By  discovered,  witli 
1  to  a  compact  and 
completely  crossed 
tern  point  oi  Max- 
refore,  immediately 
ibayed  in  ice,  along 
'  was  then  beating, 
jelves  with  fruitless 
when  the  weather 
h  an  open  sea  with 
ig  that  this  might 
3r  latitude,  steered 
iself  at  the  mouth 
ad,  with  no  visible 
s  at  its  entrance  h« 
Seppings 


MeiNT  NOITH-WXST  VOTAOta. 


313 


The  mariners,  finding  the  western  shore  of  this  inlet 
deeply  cnnumbered  with  ice,  moved  across  to  the 
eastern,  where  they  found  a  broad  and  open  chan* 
nel.  The  coast  was  the  most  dreary  and  desolate 
they  had  ever  beheld  even  in  the  Arctic  world,  pre- 
senting scarcely  a  semblance  either  of  animal  or  ve- 
?:etable  life.  Navigation  was  rendered  more  arduous 
rom  the  entire  irregularity  of  the  compass,  now  evi- 
dently approaching  to  the  magnetic  Pole,  an'd  show- 
ing an  excess  of  variation  which  they  vainly  attempted 
to  measure,  so  that  the  bitmacles  were  laid  aside 
as  useless  lumber.  They  sailed  a  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  up  this  inlet,  and  its  augmenting  width 
inspired  them  with  corresponding  hopes;  when, 
with  extreme  consternation,  they  suddenly  perceived 
the  ice  to  diverge  from  its  parallel  course,  running 
close  in  with  a  point  of  land  which  appeared  to 
form  the  southern  extremity  of  the  eastern  shore. 
To  this  foreland  they  gave  the  name  of  Cape  Kater. 
The  western  horizon  also  appeared  covered  with 
heavy  and  extensive  floes,  a  bright  and  dazzling  ice- 
blink extending  from  shore  to  shore.  The  name  of 
the  Prince  Regent  was  given  to  this  spacious  inlet, 
which  Parry  strongly  suspected  must  nave  a  com- 
munication with  HufHon's  Bay.  He  now  determined 
to  return  to  the  old  station,  and  watch  the  op- 
portunity when  the  relenting  ice  would  allow  the 
ships  to  proceed  westward.  That  station  was 
reached  not  without  some  dilBculty,  amid  ice  and 
fog.  At  Prince  Leopold's  Islands,  on  the  tSfh,  the 
ice  was  as  impenetraole  as  ever,  with  a  bright  blink, 
and  from  the  top  of  a  high  hill  there  was  no  water 
to  be  seen ;  luckily  also  there  was  no  land.  On  the 
18th,  on  getting  once  more  close  to  the  northern 
shore,  the  navigators  began  to  make  a  little  way, 
and  some  showers  of  rain  and  snow,  accompanied 
with  heavy  wind,  produced  such  an  effect,  that  on 
the  3l3t  the  whole  ice  had  disappeared,  and  they 
could  scarcely  believe  it  to  be  the  same  sea  which 


214 


RXCINT  NORTII-WrsT  voYAOl*. 


had  JiMt  before  been  covered  \*  i  ii  floes  upon  floeau 
far  M  the  eye  could  re^ch. 

Mr.  Parry  now  crowdeU  all  raU  to  the  westward, 
and,  thoufrh  detained  by  want  of  wind,  he  paued 
Radatock  Bay,  Capei  Hurd  and  Hothani,  and  Deechy 
Island  {  after  whirh  he  reached  a  fine  and  broad  inlet 
leadujg  to  the  north,  to  which  ho  assifmed  Welling- 
ton,  the  neatest  name  of  the  age.    'I'he  Hoa  up  this 
inlet  Being  perfectly  open,  he  would  not  have  hesi- 
tated  to  ascend  it,  had  there  not  been  before  him, 
along  the  south  coast  of  an  island  named  Comwal- 
118,  an  open  channel,  leading  in  a  direction,  which, 
Being  due  west,  he  could  have  no  hesitation  in  pre- 
femng.    Wellington  Inlet  was  now  considered  by 
the  navigators,  so  high  were  their  hopes,  as  forming 
the  western  boundary  of  the  land  stretching  from 
Baffin  s  Bay  to  the  Polar  Sea,  into  which  they  had 
lltUe  doubt  they  were  entering.    For  this  reason  Cap- 
lain  Farnr  did  not  hesitate  to  give  to  the  great  chan- 
nel  wluch  had  effected  so  desirable  a  jimction  the 
merited  appellationof  Barrow's  Sirail, after  the  much- 
esteemed  promoter  of  the  expedition.    A  favourable 
breeze  now  sprung  un,  and  the  adventurers  passed 
rayly  and  triumphantly  along  the  extensive  shore  of 
CoiTiwalUs  Island,  then  coasted  a  larger  island  named 
Bathurst,  and  next  a  smaller  one  called  Byam  Mar- 
tin.   At  this  last  place,  they  judged,  by  some  expe- 
nments,  that  they  had  passed  the  magnetic  meridian, 
situated,  probably,  in  about  100  degrees  west  longi- 
tude,  and  where  the  compass  would  have  pointed  due 
•ouUi  instead  of  due  north.    The  navigation  now  be- 
came extremely  difficult,  in  consequence  of  thick 
fogs,  which  not  only  froze  on  the  shiouds,  but,  as  the 
compass  vna  also  useless,  took  away  all  means  of 
knowmg  the  direction  m  which  they  sailed.    Thev 
were  obliged  to  trust  to  the  land  and  ice  preserving 
the  same  line,  and  sometimes  employed  the  most  odd 
expedients  for  ascertaining  the  precise  point.    They 
encountered  also  a  compact  floe  of  ice.  through 


VOYAOia. 

I  floes  upon  floei  u 

lail  to  the  westward, 
uf  wind,  he  passed 
Fiothuni,  and  Ueechy 
1  fine  and  brnad  inlet 

asRi^d  Wellinff- 
ge.  'lliB  Hea  up  this 
vould  not  have  heai- 
lot  been  before  liim, 
nd  named  Comwal- 

a  direction,  which, 
10  hesitation  in  pre- 
now  considered  by 
ir  hopes,  as  forming 
ind  stretching  from 
into  which  they  had 
For  this  reason  Cap- 
re  to  the  great  chan> 
rable  a  Junction  the 
irail,  after  the  much- 
ition.  A  favourable 
adventurers  passed 

0  extensive  shore  of 
'larger  island  named 
e  called  Byam  Mar- 
jged,  by  some  expe- 
!  magnetic  meridian, 
degrees  west  longi- 
iild  nave  pointed  due 

1  navigation  now  be- 
nsequence  of  Uiiclc 
'  shrouds,  but,  as  the 

away  all  means  of 
they  sailed.  They 
I  and  ice  preserving 
ploved  the  most  odd 
teclse  point.  They 
oe  of  icoi  througb 


UOBNT  NOKTH-WtST  TOTAOIt. 


ais 


yhich  thev  were  obliged  to  bore  their  way  by  main 
force.  Through  all  these  obstacles  they  reached  the 
ooast  of  an  island  larger  than  any  before  di»^overed, 
to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Melvill»;.  The  wind 
now  failed,  and  they  slowly  moved  forward  by  tow- 
ing and  warping,  till,  on  the  4th  Sentember,  Mr.  Parry 
could  announce  to  his  Joyful  crew,  that,  having  reached 
the  longitude  of  lioo  W.  they  were  become  entitled 
to  the  reward  of  £5000,  nromiscd  by  Parliament  to 
the  first  crew  who  should  attain  that  meridian.  The 
mariners  pushed  forward  with  redoubled  ardour,  but 
Boon  fonnd  their  course  arrested  by  an  impenetrable 
icy  barrier.  ITiey  waited  nearly  a  fortnight  in  hopes 
of  overcoming  it;  till  about  the  SOth  tlieir  situation 
became  alarming.  The  young  ice  began  rapidly  to 
form  on  the  surface  of  the  waters,  retarded  only  by 
winds  and  swells ;  so  that  Captain  Parry  was  con- 
vinced, in  the  event  of  a  single  hour's  calm,  that  he 
would  be  frozen  up  in  the  midat  of  the  sea.  No  op- 
tion was  therefore  left  but  to  return,  and  to  choose 
between  two  apparently  good  harbours,  which  had 
been  recently  passed  on  Melville  Tsland.  Not  with- 
out difficulty  he  reached  this  place  by  the  34th,  and 
made  choice  of  the  most  western  harbour,  as  that 
alone  which  aflbrded  full  security ;  but  it  was  neces- 
sary to  cut  two  miles  through  a  large  floe  with  which 
it  was  fllled.  To  efToct  this  arduous  operation,  the 
seamen  marked  with  boarding-pikeo  two  parallel 
lines,  at  the  distance  of  somewnat  more  than  the 
breadth  of  the  larger  ship.  They  sawed  along 
these  two  lines,  and  then  by  cross-sawinga  detached 
larae  pieces,  which  were  separated  diagonally  m 
order  to  be  floated  out ;  and  sometimes  boat  sails 
were  fastened  to  them  to  take  the  advantage  of  a 
favourable  breeze.  On  the  86th  the  ships  were  es- 
tablished in  five  fathoms  water,  «f  about  a  cable's 
length  from  the  beach.  For  some  time  the  ice  was 
daily  cleared  round  them;  but  this  was  soon  found 


W^in^'" 


216 


RSOKNT  NORTH-WIST  VOTAOBe. 


m 

1 


an  endless  and  useless  labour,  and  they  were  allowed 
to  be  regularly  fro'">ii  in  for  the  winter. 

Mr.  Parry  then  applied  himself  to  name  the  ex- 
tended group  of  large  islands  along  which  he  had 
passed.  He  called  them  at  first  New-Georgia;  but, 
recollecting  that  this  appellation  had  been  pre-occu- 
pied  by  a  large  island  in  the  Pacific,  he  gave  the 
name  of  « the  North  Georgian  Islands,"  after  hig 
majesty  George  III.,  whose  reign  had  been  so  emi- 
nently distinguished  by  the  extension  of  nautical 
and  geographical  knowledge. 

The  commander,  finding  himself  and  his  ships 
shut  in  for  a  long  and  drcaiy  winter,  devoted  his  at- 
tention, with  judicious  activity,  and  a  mixture  of 
firmness  and  kindness,  to  mitigate  those  evils,  which, 
even  in  lower  latitudes,  had  often  rendered  an  Arctic 
wintering  so  fatal.  His  provisions  being  very  ample, 
he  allowed  the  sailors  weekly  a  pound  of  Donkin's 
preserved  meat,  and  a  pint  of  concentrated  soup,  in* 
stead  of  a  pound  of  salt  beef;  beer  and  wine  were 
served  instead  of  spirits;  and  a  certain  allowance 
was  made  of  sour-krout,  pickles,  and  vinegar.  The 
sailors  were  also  called  together  daily,  and  made  to 
swallow  a  quantity  of  lime-juice  and  sugar  in' pre* 
sence  of  the  officers,  their  improvidence  being  such 
aa  to  afford  otherwise  no  hope  of  their  spontaneously 
imbibing  this  salutary  draught.  Their  gums  and 
shins  were  also  regularly  examined,  in  order  to  detect 
scurvy  in  its  earliest  symptoms.  It  was  necessary 
to  be  very  economical  of  fuel,  the  small  quantity  of 
moss  and  turf  which  could  be  collected  bemg  too  wet 
to  be  of  any  use.  By  placing  the  apparatus  for  bak- 
ing in  a  central  position,  and  by  several  other  arrangc- 
raents,  the  cabin  was  maintained  in  a  very  comforta- 
k)le  temperature ;  but  still,  around  its  extremities  and 
in  the  bed-places,«teain,  vapour,  and  even  the  breath 
settled,  first  as  moisture  and  then  as  ice ;  to  dry  and 
remove  these  annoyances  became  therefore  a  part  ot 
theii  daily  employment. 


mtm 


MM 


■'irk:tsJ^7^-i)S'Ati»i^.i»ii^^ .... 


■  •■  "liWMsSijia. . 


VOTAOBe. 

id  they  were  allowed 
winter. 

elf  to  name  the  ex- 
alonj^  which  he  had 
New-Georgia;  but, 
1  had  been  pre-occu- 
Pacific,  he  gave  the 
I  Islands,"  after  his 
fn  had  been  so  emi- 
[tension  of  nautical 

nself  and  his  ships 
inter,  devoted  his  at- 
',  and  a  mixture  of 
te  those  evils,  which, 
n  rendered  an  Arctic 
(ns  being  very  ample, 
a  pound  of  Donkin's 
oncentrated  soup,  in« 
beer  and  wine  were 
a  certain  allowance 
8,  and  vinegar.  The 
;r  daily,  and  made  to 
ce  and  sugar  in' pre* 
rovidence  being  such 
f  their  spontaneously 
i.  Their  gums  and 
led,  in  order  to  detect 
8.  It  was  necessary 
:he  small  quantity  of 
llected  bemg  too  wet 
le  apparatus  for  bak- 
leveral  other  arrange- 
1  in  a  very  comforta- 
id  its  extremities  and 
,  and  even  th^  breath 
m  as  ice ;  to  dry  and 
ne  therefore  a  part  of 


RECENT  NORTH-WEST  TOTAOES. 


217 


Mr.  Parry  was,  from  the  first,  aware  that  nothing 
acted  more  strongly  aa  an  antiscorbutic,  than  to  keep 
the  men's  minds  in  a  lively  and  cheerful  state.  His 
plans  for  this  purpose  were  very  original,  and  proved 
very  effectual.  Arrangements  were  made  for  the  oc- 
casional performance  of  a  play,  in  a  region  very  re- 
mote  certainly  from  any  to  which  the  drama  appeared 
congenial.  Lieutenant  Beechy  was  nominated  stage- 
manager,  and  the  officers  came  fonvard  as  amateur 
performers.  The  very  expectation  thus  raised  among 
the  seamen,  and  the  bustle  of  preparing  a  room  for 
the  purpose,  were  extremely  salutary;  and  when  the 
North  Georgian  theatre  opened  with  "  Miss  in  hei 
Teens,"  these  hardy  tars  were  convulsed  with  laugh- 
ter, not  a  little  excited,  perhaps,  by  viewing  their 
officers  in  so  singular  and  novel  a  position ;  at  all 
events  the  Arctic  management  was  extremely 
popular.  As  the  small  stock  contained  in  one  or 
two  chance  volumes  was  exhausted,  original  com- 
positions were  produced,  and  afterward  formed 
into  a  little  collection.  The  offiiers  had  another 
source  of  amusement  in  the  North  Georgia  Ga- 
zette, of  which  Captain  Sabine  became  editor,  and 
all  were  invited  to  contribute  to  this  chronicle  of 
the  frozen  regions.  Even  those  who  hesitated  to 
appear  as  writers,  enlivened  the  circle  by  severe  but' 
good-humoured  criticisms. 
« 

_  Thui  paaed  the  time, 

Till,  through  the  lucid  ehamben  of  the  aoutb, 
Looked  out  the  joyous  Sun. 

It  was  on  the  4th  November  that  this  great  orb 
ought  to  have  taken  his  leave ;  but  a  deep  haze  pre- 
vented them  from  bidding  a  formal  farewell,  and 
from  ascertaining  the  period  down  to  which  refrac- 
tion would  have  rendered  him  visible ;  yet  he  was 
reported  to  be  seen  from  the  mast-head  on  the  11th. 
Amid  various  occupations  and  amusements  the 
shortest  day  came  on  almost  unexpected,  and  the  sea- 
T 


iniiiiiiiiiiiiH^^ 


218 


RECENT   N0RTH-W4EBT   TOTAGES 


men  then  watched  with  pleasure  the  midday  twi« 
light  gradually  strengthening.  On  the  38th  Janu- 
ary none  of  the  fixed  stars  could  be  seen  at  noon 
by  the  naked  eye ;  and  on  the  1st  and  3d  of  Fetwu- 
ary  the  sun  was  looked  for,  but  the  sky  was  wrapped 
in  mist ;  however,  on  the  3d  he  was  perceived  from 
the  maintop  of  the  Hecla.  Through  the  ^eatest 
depth  of  the  Polar  night,  the  officers,  duriu}^  the 
brief  twilight,  had  taken  a  regular  walk  of  two  or 
three  hours ;  avoiding  only  to  go  farther  than  a  mile, 
lest  they  should  be  overtaken  by  snow-drift.  There 
was  a  want  of  objects  to  diversify  this  walk.  A 
dreary  monotonous  surface  of  dazzling  white  covered 
land  and  sea :  the  view  of  the  ships,  the  smoke  as- 
cending from  them,  the  sound  of  hirnian  voices, 
which  through  the  calm  and  cold  air  was  carried  to 
an  extraordinary  distance,  alone  gave  any  animation 
to  this  wintry  scene.  The  officers,  however,  perse- 
vered  in  their  daily  walk,  and  exercise  was  also  en- 
forced upon  the  men,  who,  even  when  prevented  by 
the  weather  from  leaving  the  vessel,  were  made  to 
run  round  the  deck,  keeping  time  to  the  tune  of  an 
organ.  This  movement  they  did  not  at  first  entirely 
relish ;  but  no  plea  against  it  being  admitted,  they 
converted  it  at  last  into  matter  of  frolic. 

By  the  above  means  health  was  maintained  on 
board  the  ships  to  a  surprising  degree.  E  vly  in  Ja- 
nuary, however,  Mr.  Scallon,  the  gunner,  felt 
symptoms,  flrst  in  the  legs  and  then  in  the  gums, 
that  decidedly  indicated  the  presence  of  scurvy,  of 
which  the  immediate  cause  appeared  to  be  the  great 
collection  of  damp  which  had  formed  round  his  bed- 
place.  At  this  first  alarm,  all  the  antiscorbutics  on 
board,  lemon-juice,  pickles,  spruce-beer,  &c.  were 
put  into  requisition ;  a  small  quantity  of  mustard  and 
cress  was  also  raised  from  mould  placed  over  the 
stove-pipe;  and  such  was  the  success  of  these  mea- 
sures, that  in  nine  days  the  patient  coidd  walk  with- 
out pain.    Farther  on  in  the  season  a  number  of 


IT   TOTAOES 

sure  the  midday  twi« 
.  On  the  38th  Jann- 
ould  be  seen  at  noon 
e  1st  and  3d  of  Fetwu- 
t  the  sky  was  wrajyped 
le  was  perceived  from 
Through  the  p-eatest 
e  oflScers,  during  the 
guiar  walk  of  two  or 
go  farther  than  a  mile, 
by  snow-drift.  There 
t^ersiiy  this  walk.  A 
dazzling  white  covered 
ships,  the  smoke  as- 
nd  of  human  voices, 
old  air  was  carried  to 
ne  gave  any  animation 
fleers,  however,  perse- 
exercise  WBS  also  en- 
3n  when  prevented  by 
vessel,  were  made  to 
ime  to  the  tune  of  an 
did  not  at  first  entirely 
being  admitted,  they 
r  of  frolic. 

h  was  maintained  on 
degree.  Early  in  Ja- 
on,  the  gunner,  felt 
nd  then  in  the  gums, 
)resence  of  scurvy,  of 
ipeared  to  be  the  great 
formed  round  his  bed- 
the  antiscorbutics  on 
ipruce-beer,  &c.  were 
uantity  of  mustard  and 
lould  traced  over  the 
success  of  these  mea- 
itient  coidd  walk  with- 
season  a  number  of 


mOENT  NORTH-WEST   TOTAOKS. 


210 


slighter  cases  occurred,  which  were  somewhat  ag- 
gravated by  an  accident.  As  the  men  were  taking 
their  musical  perambulation  round  the  deck,  a  house 
erected  on  ejiore,  and  contaising  a  number  of  the 
most  valuable  instruments,  was  seen  to  be  on  fire. 
The  crew  instantly  ran,  pulled  off  the  roof  with 
ropes,  knocked  down  a  part  of  the  sides,  and  being 
thus  enabled  to  throw  in  large  quantities  of  snow, 
succeeded  in  subduing  the  flames.  Now,  however, 
their  faces  presented  a  curious  spectacle,  every  nose 
and  cheek  being  white  with  frost-bites,  while  the  me- 
dical gentlemen,  with  their  assistants,  were  obliged 
to  run  from  one  to  the  other,  and  rub  them  with 
snow,  in  order  to  restore  animation.  With  one  man 
the  amputation  of  several  of  his  fingers  became  ne- 
cessary, and  no  less  than  sixteen  were  added  to  the 
sick-list. 

The  animal  tribes  disappeared  early  m  the  wmter 
from  this  frozen  region.  The  officers,  on  the  I6th 
October,  made  a  shooting  excursion,  enjoying  a  very 
fine  day,  though  with  the  thermometer  47*  below  the 
freezing  point ;  but  they  did  not  find  a  deer,  a  grouse, 
or  any  animal  which  could  be  ranked  as  game.  All 
of  them,  deserting  this  wintry  realm,  had  crossed 
the  seas  to  America.  There  remained  only  a  pack 
of  wolves,  which  serenaded  the  crews  nightly,  not 
venturing  to  attack,  but  contriving  to  avoid  being 
captured.  A  beautiful  white  fox  was  caught  and 
made  a  pet  of.  On  the  18th  May  one  of  the  men 
gave  notice  that  he  had  seen  a  ptarmigan ;  and  at- 
tention being  thus  excited,  Mr.  Beverley  next  day 
brought  one  down,  and  on  the  15th  three  coveys 
were  discovered.  The  footsteps  of  deer  weie  also 
seen,  which,  from  the  impression  made  on  the  snow, 
seemed  to  be  moving  northward.  From  this  time 
ptarmigans  were  supplied  in  tolerable  numbers ;  but 
they  were  made  strictly  a  common  good,  being  di- 
vided equally  among  the  crew,  with  only  a  preference 
in  favour  of  Uie  sick     There  was  found,  also,  mixed 


230 


RECINT  KORTH-WBST  VOTAaiS. 


ft 


with  moss  under  the  snow,  an  abundance  of  the 
herb  sorrel,  a  most  potent  antido'e  against  scurvy. 
By  these  suppUes,and  by  the  more  genial  weather,  the 
health  of  the  crew,  wl»ich  at  the  end  of  March  had 
been  in  a  somewhat  alarming  state,  was  completely 
restored  before  the  beginning  of  June.  In  extending 
their  excursions,  however,  they  were  considerably 
incommoded  by  that  distressing  inflammation  of  the 
/  eyes,  produced  from  the  glare  of  snow,  called  snow- 
blindness.  It  was  cured  in  a  few  days  by  cold  appli- 
cations,  and  it  was  prevented  in  future  by  covering 
the  eyes,  or  by  wearing  speciacles,  in  which  crape 
was  used  instead  of  glass. 

On  the  16th  March  the  North  Georgian  theatre  was 
closed  with  an  appropriate  address,  and  the  general 
attention  was  now  turned  to  the  means  of  extrication 
from  the  ice.      By  the  17th  May  the  seamen  had  so 
far  cut  the  ice  from  around  the  ships  as  to  allow  them 
to  float ;  but  in  the  sea  it  was  still  immoveable.    This 
interval  of  painful  inaction  was  employed  by  Cap- 
tain Parry  in  an  excursion  across  Melville  Island. 
The  ground  was  still  mostly  covered  with  softened 
snow,  and  even  the  cleared  tracts  were  extremely  de- 
solate, though  checkered  byintervalsof  fine  verdure. 
Deer  were  seen  traversing  the  plains  in  considerable 
numbers.    To  the  north  appeared  another  island,  to 
which  was  given  the  name  of  Sabine.    Bv  the  mid- 
dle of  June  pools  were  every  where  formed ;  the  dis- 
solved water  flowed  in  streams,  and  even  in  toiTents, 
which  rendered  hunting  and  travelling  unsafe.  There 
were  also  channels  of  water  in  which  boats  could 
pass;  yet  throughout  June  and  July  the  great  cover- 
mg  of  ice  in  the  surrounding  sea  remained  entire, 
and  kept  the  ships  in  harbour.    On  the  2d  of  August, 
however,  the  whole  mass,  by  one  of  Uiose  sudden 
movements  to  which  it  is  liable,  broke  up  and  floated 
out ;  and  the  explorers  had  now  open  water  in  which 
to  prosecute  their  discovery.    It  was  consolatory 
to  think,  that  this  was  the  ver^  season  at  which  they 


r  voVAais. 

n  abundance  of  the 
lota  against  scurvy. 
re  genial  weather,  the 
e  end  of  March  had 
tate,  was  completely 
June.  In  extending 
Y  were  considerably 
;  inilammation  of  the 
f  snow,  called  snow- 
w  days  by  cold  appli- 
i  future  by  covering 
:les,  in  which  crape 

f  eorgian  theatre  was 
IBS,  and  the  general 
means  of  extrication 
!>'  the  seamen  had  so 
lips  as  to  allow  them 
immoveable.    This 
I  employed  by  Cap- 
}ss  Melville  Island, 
rered  with  softened 
I  were  extremely  de- 
rvals  of  fine  verdi  1 1  e. 
ains  in  considerable 
d  another  island,  to 
ibine.    By  the  mid- 
ere  formed ;  the  dis- 
ind  even  in  torrents, 
Uing  unsafe.  There 
which  boats  could 
uly  the  great  cover- 
la  remained  entire, 
)u  the  3d  of  August, 
ne  of  those  sudden 
roke  up  and  floated 
ipen  water  in  which 
t  was  consolatory 
sason  at  which  they 


SCCENT  NORTn>WB8T  TOTAOSB. 


22! 


had  last  year  entered  Lancaster  Sound ;  and  if  they 
could  make  as  brilliant  a  voyage  this  summer,  the 
following  one  would  see  them  not  far  from  Behring's 
Straits.  But  it  was  not  without  some  obstructions 
that  on  the  4th  they  reached  the  same  spot  where 
their  progress  had  been  formerly  arrested.  On  the 
16th  they  were  enabled  to  make  a  certain  progress; 
after  which  the  frozen  surface  of  the  ocean  assumed 
a  more  compact  and  impenetrable  aspect  than  had 
ever  before  been  witnessed.  The  officers  ascended 
some  of  the  lofty  heights  which  bordered  the  coast ; 
but,  in  a  long  reach  of  sea  to  the  westward,  no 
boundary  was  seen  to  these  icy  barriers.  There 
appeared  only  the  western  extremity  of  Melville 
Island,  named  Cape  Dundas ;  and  in  the  distance  a 
bold  high  coast,  which  they  named  Banks's  Land, 
^sevena  brisk  easterly  gale  did  not  produce  the 
slightest  movement  in  this  frozen  surface,  they  were 
led  to  believe  that  on  the  other  side  there  must  be  a 
large  barrier  of  land,  by  which  it  was  held  in  a  fixed 
state.  On  considering  all  circumstances,  there  ap- 
peared no  alternative  but  to  make  their  way  home- 
ward wliile  yet  the  season  permitted.  Some  addi- 
tional observations  were  made  on  their  return,  on 
the  two  coasts  extending  along  Barrow's  Strait. 

Mr.  Parry's  arrival  in  Britain  was.  hailed  with  the 
highest  exultation.  To  have  sailed  upwards  of  thirty 
degrees  of  longitude  beyond  the  point  reached  by 
any  former  navigator, — to  have  discovered  so  many 
new  lands,  islands,  and  bays, — to  have  established 
the  much-contested  existence  of  a  Polar  sea  north 
of  America, — finally,  after  a  wintering  of  eleven 
months,  to  have  brought  back  his  crew  in  a  sound 
and  vigorous  state,* — were  enough  to  raise  his  name 
above  that  of  any  former  Arctic  voyager. 

*  Only  one  man  died  in  the  eouiw  of  their  long  and  peiilona  voyage, 
but  wboie  diseiM  wai  no  way  referrible  to  a  connexion  with  the  exp*. 
dliinn,  the  origin  of  bli  malady  having  been  of  a  date  antefior  to  UN 
MiUngof  Uwibipa. 

T8 


RECENT  NORTH-WEST  TUTAQIS. 

No  hesitation  was  felt  as  to  sending  out  another 
expedition ;  but,  considering  the  strength  of  the  ulti- 
mate barriers  which  had  twice  arrested  the  progress 
of  the  last,  it  became  important  to  consider  whether 
there  was  not  any  other  channel  by  which  the  Polar 
sea,  now  ascertamed  to  exist,  might  be  reached  and 
traversed  with  greater  facility.  In  Hudson's  Bay, 
neither  of '.le  great  northern  sounds  of  the  Welcome 
nor  of  Fox's  Channel  had  been  traced  to  a  termina- 
tion. Middleton,  in  the  former  inlet,  had  ascended 
higher  than  any  other  navigator ;  but  a  thick  cloud 
had  been  raised  around  his  reputation,  and  his  FVo- 
zen  Strait,  after  all,  was  very  likely  to  be  only  a 
temporary  barrier.  If  from  either  of  these  sounds  a 
passage  should  open  into  the  Polar  sea,  it  might  be 
navirated  in  a  much  lower  latitude  than  that  in 
which  Parry  had  wintered,  and  might  perhaps  be 
also  free  from  those  large  insular  masses  in  which 
he  had  been  entangled.  There  was  fitted  out  then 
a  new  expedition,  in  which  the  Fury,  of  337  tons, 
was  conjoined  with  the  Hecla ;  the  commander  con- 
ceiving that  two  vessels  of  nearly  equal  dimensions 
were  best  calculated  for  co-operating  with  and  aid- 
ing each  other,  while  the  examination  of  coasts  and 
inlets  could  best  be.  carried  on  by  boats.  This  of- 
ficer, now  promoted  to  the  rank  of  Captain,  hoisted 
his  flag  on  board  the  Fury ;  while  Captain  Lyon, 
already  distinguished  by  his  servi^res  in  Africa,  re- 
ceived the  command  of  the  Hecla,  and  proved  him- 
self fully  competent  to  the  arduous  duties  of  this 
new  service.  The  equipment,  the  victualling,  and 
the  heating  of  the  vessels,  were  all  arranged  with 
the  greatest  care,  and  with  various  improvements 
suggested  by  experience. 

The  expedition  was  ready  to  sail  on  the  8th  May, 
1821,  and  having  then  quitted  the  Nore,  passed 
through  the  Pentland  Frith  and  by  Cape  Farewell, 
suffering  repeated  detention ;  but  we  shall  not  pause 
till  we  find  it  on  the  2d  July  at  the  mouth  of  Hudson's 


TUTAOta. 

sending  out  another 
I  strength  of  the  ulti- 
irrested  the  progreas 
to  consider  whether 
I  oy  which  the  Polar 
ight  be  reached  and 

In  Hudson's  Bay, 
nds  of  the  'Welcome 
traced  to  a  termina- 
inlet,  had  ascended 

;  but  a  thick  cloud 
itation,  and  his  /Vo- 
likely  to  be  only  a 
er  of  these  sounds  a 
)lar  sea,  it  might  be 
titude  than  that  in 
1  might  perhaps  be 
ar  masses  in  which 
was  fitted  out  then 
!  Fury,  of  327  tons, 
the  commander  con- 
ly  equal  dimensions 
rating  with  and  aid- 
nation  of  coasts  and 
by  boats.    This  of- 

of  Captain,  hoisted 
rhile  Captain  Lyon, 
rvu'.es  in  Africa,  re- 
;la,  and  proved  him- 
luous  duties  of  this 
the  victualling,  and 
!  all  arranged  with 
rious  improvements 

sail  on  the  8th  May, 

the  Nore,  passed 
I  by  Cape  Farewell, 
t  we  shall  not  pause 
s  mouth  of  Hudson's 


RECENT  NORTH-WEST  TOTAQEfl. 


228 


Straits.  Captain  Parry,  accustomed  as  he  was  to 
scenes  of  Polar  desolation,  was  struck  with  the  pe- 
culiarly dreary  aspect  which  these  shores  presented. 
The  naked  rocks,  the  snow  still  covering  the  valleys, 
and  the  thick  fogs  that  hung  over  them,  rendered 
the  scene  indescribably  gloomy.  The  ships  were 
soon  surrounded  by  ii-ebergs,  which  in  one  place 
amounted  to  the  numi/cr  of  fifty-four, — one  rising 
258  feet  above  the  sea.  They  were  attended  by 
large  floes,  rendered  very  fornudable  by  iieir  rota- 
tory motion.  The  peculiar  danger  of  lliese  straits, 
often  remarked  by  former  navigators,  arises  from  the 
strong  tides  and  currents  •  that  rush  in  from  the 
AtlanUc,  and  cause  continual  and  violent  move- 
ments among  the  huge  icy  masses  with  which  the 
channels  are  filled.  Captain  Lyon  had  proof  of  their 
strength  when  he  had  two  hawsers  repeatedly  car- 
ried away,  and  his  best  bower-anchor,  weighing  more 
than  a  ton,  wrenched  from  the  bows,  and  broken  off  as 
if  it  had  been  crockery-ware.  Amid  these  troubles, 
the  sailors  were  amused  by  the  sight  of  three  com- 
panion-sliips,  two  belonging  to  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  and  one  bringing  out  settlers  for  Lord 
Selkirk's  colony.  These  last,  who  were  chiefly 
Dutch  and  Germans,  were  seen  waltzing  on  deck 
often  for  hours  together,  and  were  only  driven  in  bj 
a  severe  fall  of  snow.  Although  almost  m  despair 
at  the  numerous  detentions  they  had  experienced, 
they  recreated  themselves  from  time  to  time  by  ma- 
trimonial arrangements,  in  which  they  were  so  dili- 
gent, that,  it  is  said,  there  was  scarcely  a  ball  which 
did  not  end  in  a  marriage. 

Amid  these  obstructions,  the  ships  spent  nineteen 
days  in  making  seventy  miles ;  which  course,  how- 
ever, brought  them,  on  the  21st,  within  two  leagues 
of  what  are  called  the  Savage  Islands.  On  the  follow- 
ing afternoon  a  loud  shouting  was  heard  over  the  ice 
and  soon  after  there  appeared  a  numerous  band  of 
natives,  paddling  their  canoes  through  the  lanes  of 


"224 


SlOlirr  N0RTn-WE8T  VOTAOia. 


open  water,  or,  where  theie  failed,  drawing:  t^em 
over  the  pieces  of  ice.  Among  a  great  number  of 
kayaki,  or  boats  roAred  by  a  single  man  (see  plate, 
p.  164),  were  five  oomiakt,  or  women's  boats,  con- 


structed of  a  framework  of  wood  and  whalebone, 
covered  with  deer-skins,  having  flat  sides  and  bot- 
tom,  and  of  considerable  size.    One  of  them,  85  feet 
by  8,  contained  women,  boys,  and  children,  to  the 
number  of  twenty-one.     Presently  began  a  wild, 
merry,  noisy  scene  of  frolic  and  traffic.    The  natives 
carried  it  on  with  eagerness  and  even  fury,  stripping 
themselves  of  the  very  skins  which  formed  their 
only  covering,  till  they  were  in  a  state  of  total  nu- 
dity,  except  that  the  ladies  always  made  a  laudable 
reservation  of  their  breeches.     They  drove  what 
they  meant  should  be  an  excessively  hard  bargain 
yet,  being  wholly  ignorant  of  the  value  of  the  rich 
skins  with  which  nature  has  invested  the  animals 
of  this  Arctic  climate,  they  raised  shouts  of  triumph 
when  they  obtained  in  exchange  a  nail,  a  saw,  or  a 
razor.  Their  aspect  was  wilder  and  more  dishevelled 
than  that  of  any  other  tribe  even  amcing  this  rude 
race ;  their  character  also  seems  fiercer  and  more  sa- 
vage ;  and  indeed  it  is  in  this  quarter  that  most  of  the 
tiagical  encounters  with  Esquimaux  have  occurred. 
Some  of  the  ancient  dames  were  pronounced  to  be  the 


t^w^ 


BT  VOVAOtt. 

'  failed,  drawingf  them 
)ng  a  great  number  of 
single  man  (see  plate, 
t  women's  boats,  con- 


vood  and  whalebone, 
ng  flat  sides  and  bet- 
One  of  them,  26  feet 
,  and  children,  to  the 
isently  began  a  wild, 
d  traffic.    The  natives 
id  even  fury,  stripping 
I  which  formed  their 
n  a  state  of  total  nu- 
ways  made  a  laudable 
They  drove  what 
jssively  hard  bargain 
the  value  of  the  rich 
invested  the  animals 
sed  shouts  of  triumph 
ge  a  nail,  a  saw,  or  a 
'  and  more  dishevelled 
ven  amdng  this  rude 
IS  fiercer  and  more  sa- 
arter  that  most  of  the 
imaux  have  occurred. 
;  pronounced  to  be  the 


RECEirr  NORTH-WEST  VOYAGES. 


2£j 


most  hideous  objects  that  mortal  eye  had  ever  be- 
held ;  inflamed  eyes,  wrinkled  skin,  black  teeth,  and 
deformed  features,  rendered  them  scarcely  Imman: 
hence  much  apology  was  found  for  the  dark  and 
dire  suspicions  cherished  by  Frobisher's  crew  re- 
specting one  of  these  damsels,  and  the  odd  investi- 
gation  to  which  it  had  prompted.  The  children 
were  rather  pretty;  though,  from  being  thrown 
carelessly  into  the  bottom  of  tho  boats,  they  had 
much  the  appearance  of  tlie  young  of  wild  animals. 
Besides  traffic,  the  natives  carried  on  a  great  deal  of 
rather  rude  frolic,  like  that  of  ill-regulated  school- 
boys.  One  of  them  got  behind  a  sailor,  shouted 
loudly  in  one  ear,  and  gave  him  a  hearty  box  en  the 
other,  which  was  hailed  with  a  loud  and  general 
laugh.  They  also  carried  on  a  dance,  consisting 
chiefly  of  violent  leaping  and  stamping,  though  in 
tolerable  time. 

In  spite  of  every  obstruction.  Captain  Parry,  early 
in  August,  reached  the  entrance  of  Fox's  Channel, 
and  came  in  view  of  Southampton  Island.  It  was 
now  the  question,  whether  to  fail  directly  up  this 
chaimel,  and  reach,  by  a  comparatively  short  route. 
Repulse  Bay  and  the  higher  latitudes,  or  to  make 
the  south-western  circuit  of  Southampton  Island, 
and  ascend  the  beaten  track  of  the  Welcome. 
Captain  Parry  judiciously  preferred  the  former,  not- 
withstanding its  uncertainties,  on  account  of  the 
great  time  which  would  be  saved  should  this  course 
be  found  practicable.  On  the  15th  he  came  to  a 
strait  stretching  westward ,  and  apparently  separating 
the  island  from  other  land  on  the  north.  Hoping  to 
find  this  the  Frozen  Strait  of  Middleton,  he  entered 
it ;  but  it  soon  proved  a  spacious  and  beautiful  basin, 
enclosed  by  land  on  every  side.  He  named  it  the 
Duke  of  York's  Bay,  and  considered  it  one  of  the 
finest  harbours  in  the  world ;  but,  after  admiring  a 
large  floe  covered  entirely  with  minerals,  shells,  and 
plants,  he  moved  out  of  it,  and  pursued  the  voyage. 


RKCKNT  NOntn-WEHT   VOTAOVt. 

On  tho  2lHt  the  navijrators  found  themselves  in 
another  str»it,  not  much  encumbered  with  ice,  but 
dnrltenect  by  thick  fogs ;  and,  before  they  almost 
knew  where  they  were,  a  heavy  swell  fVom  the 
southward  showed  that  they  had  passed  throuirli  the 
Frozen  Strait,  and  were  in  tlie  broad  channel  of 
the  Welcome.  They  speedily  entered  Repulse  Bay, 
in  which  modern  speculation  had  cherished  the 
hope  of  a  passage ;  but  a  short  investigation,  made 
by  boats  in  every  direction,  proved  that  it  was  really 
M  Middleton  had  described  it,  completely  enclosed. 
A  good  deal  of  time  had  thus  been  lost  through  the 
skepticism  so  unjustly  attached  to  the  narrative  of 
that  eminent  navigator. 

Captain  Parry,  having  come  with  all  speed  out  of 
Repulse  Bay,  began  the  career  of  discovery  along  a 
coast  hitherto  unknown.  An  inlet  was  soon  found, 
and  called  by  the  name  of  Gore ;  but  when  ascended 
a  certain  length,  it  was  not  found  to  reach  far  inland. 
At  the  mouth  of  this  opening,  the  valleys  were  richly 
clad  with  grass  and  moss,  the  birds  singmg,  butterflies 
and  other  insects  displaying  the  most  gaudy  tints,  so 
that  the  sailors  might  n.-.  re  fancied  themselves  in  some 
happier  climate,  had  noi  the  mighty  piles  of  ice  in 
the  Frozen  Strait  told  a  different  tale.  Hunting  par- 
ties traversed  the  country  in  various  directions,  and 
the  game-laws  of  the  preceding  year  were  strictly 
re-enacted,  by  which  every  beast  or  bird  slain  was  to 
be  employed  for  the  general  good,  allowing  only  the 
head  and  legs  as  a  dmtceur  to  the  captor.  The  latter 
however,  adopted  and  made  good  a  theonr,  agreeablv 
to  which  the  description,  hecM,  was  greatly  extended, 
so  as  to  include  even  several  joints  of  the  back-bone. 

Having  passed  Gore  Inlet,  the  expedition  found 
itself  among  those  numerous  isles  described  by  Mid- 
dleton, which  formed  a  complete  labyrinth  of  various 
shapes  and  sizes,  while  strong  currents  setting 
between  them  in  various  directions,  amid  fogs  and 
drifting  ice,  rendered  the  navigation  truly  perilous. 


ita 


mind  themselves  in 
nbrred  with  ice,  but 

before  they  almost 
nvy  swell  from  the 
d  pnflscd  throufrli  the 
lie  broad  channel  of 
sntered  Repulse  Bay, 

had  cherished  the 
:  investii^atiun,  made 
veA  that  it  was  rcallv 
nompletely  enclosedf. 
}een  lost  through  the 
id  to  the  narrative  of 

with  all  speed  out  of 
of  discovery  along  a 
nlet  was  soon  found, 
;;  but  when  ascended 
td  to  reach  far  inland, 
le  valleys  were  richly 
ds  sin^in);,  butterflies 
!  most  (faudy  tints,  so 
;d  themselves  in  some 
liprhty  piles  of  ice  in 
It  tale.  Hunting  par- 
nous  directions,  and 
r\g  year  were  strictly 
St  or  bird  slain  was  to 
od,  allowing  only  the 
e  captor.  The  latter 
»d  a  theory,  agreeablv 
was  greatly  extended, 
ints  of  the  back-bone, 
he  expedition  found 
lies  described  by  Mid- 
e  labyrinth  of  various 
mg  currents  setting 
tions,  amid  fogs  and 
[ation  truly  perilous. 


RECENT   NORTIl-WRST    VOYAGES. 


287 


The  Fury  was  assailed  by  successive  masses  rushing 
out  from  an  inlt-t;  her  un(;hor  was  dragged  along  the 
rocks  with  a  grinding  noise,  and  on  being  drawn  up, 
the  two  flukes  were  fdund  to  Iw  broken  off.  The  same 
vessel  was  afterward  carried  along  by  a  violent  vwt- 
rent,  amid  thick  mist,  without  there  being  any  means 
of  guiding  or  altering  its  direction ;  so  that  Captain 
Parry  conriidcrs  it  alu»getli»r  providcnUal  that  who 
was  not  (lashed  to  pit^ccH  against  the  surrounding 
rocks.  However,  one  channel,  and  one  only,  was 
found,  by  which  the  mariners  at  Iat<t  made  their  way 
through  this  perilous  maze.  No  sooner  had  they 
reached  the  open  sea,  than,  being  obliged  to  run  before 
a  strong  northerly  breeze,  they  were  much  dis- 
heartened to  find  themselves,  on  tlie  3d  of  September, 
at  the  very  point  which  they  had  left  the  preceding 
6th  of  August.  All  the  interval  had  been  employed 
in  the  mere  negative  discovery,  that  there  was  nothing 
to  discover. 

Captain  Parry  soon  reached  the  northern  coastf 
and  resumed  his  task,  which  was  rendered  very 
tedious  by  the  necessity  of  examining  every  opening 
and  channel,  in  the  hope  that  ea(;h  might  prove  the 
desired  passage  into  the  Polar  ocean.  He  first  ex- 
plored a  large  inlet,  the  name  of  which  he  gave  to 
Captain  Ijyon,  then  a  smaller  one,  which  was  named 
from  Lieutenant  Hoppner ;  and,  by  connecting  these 
with  Gore  Inlet,  he  completed  his  delineation  of  the 
coast.  The  seamen  had  then  the  pleasure  of  opening 
a  traffic  with  a  party  of  Esquimaux,  whose  first 
timidity  was  soon  overcome  by  the  hope  of  being 
supplied  with  some  iron  tools.  In  the  course  of  this 
transaction,  the  surprise  of  the  crew  was  roused  by 
the  conduct  of  a  lady,  who  had  sold  one  boot,  but 
obstinately  retained  the  other  in  disregard  of  the 
strongest  remonstrances  ab  to  the  ridiculous  figure 
she  in  consequence  made.  At  length,  suspicion  rose 
to  such  a  pitch,  that,  all  coiirtc  sy  being  set  aside,  hei 
person  was  laid  hold  of,  and  the  boot  pulled  off. 
Then  indeed  it  proved  a  complete  deiHisitury  of  stolen 


338 


miCINT  NORTH'WVBT  VOTAttM. 


tronaurc,  since  no  lens  tluin  two  spiponH  and  a  p<)wtcr 
plate  were  found  within  tliis  napucrioti*  receptacle. 

The  end  of  Srptembrr  now  approiichcd,  and  Cap- 
tain  Parry  found  hiinscif  Hiuldenly  in  the  depth  of 
winter.  Snow  had  been  falling  during  the  whole  of 
the  short  aummer ;  l»ut  the  united  warmth  of  the  air 
and  earth  had  melted  it  as  it  fell,  and  left  the  ground 
still  open  to  the  sun's  rave  In  one  moment,  as  it 
were,  the  snow  made  gooA  its  lodgment,  and  spread 
its  white  and  dazzling  mantle  over  land  and  sea. 
The  rays  being  then  no  longer  able  to  reach  the  soil, 
the  whole  became  subject  to  permanent  and  impene- 
trable frost.  Some  parts  of  the  snow  were  indeed 
dissolved,  and  then  refrozen  in  varied  and  l)eautiful 
forms  of  crystallization;  whereas  at  Melville  Island, 
the  dead  white  covering  once  spread  over  nature  had 
never  changed  its  aspect.  A  more  serious  symptom 
existed  in  the  rapid  formation  of  the  soft  or  pancake 
ice  on  the  surface  of  the  dee]).  The  obstacle  pre- 
sented by  this  crust  was  at  first  so  slight  as  to  bo 
Bcarcfely  felt  by  a  ship  before  a  favouring  gale ;  but 
it  continually  inc'iased,  till  the  vessel,  rolling  from 
side  to  side,  and  u.l  her  resources  failing,  became,  like 
Gulliver,  bound  by  the  feeble  hands  of  Lilliputians. 
At  the  same  time  the  various  pieces  of  drift-ice, 
which  were  tossing  in  the  sea  without,  had  been  ce- 
mented into  one  great  field  called  "  the  ice,"  that 
threatened  every  moment  to  bear  down  upon  the  ves- 
sels, and  dash  them  in  pieces.  Under  this  combi- 
nation of  circumstances,  the  navigators  could  no 
longer  even  attempt  to  reach  the  land,  but  determined 
to  saw  into  the  heart  of  a  large  adjoining  floe,  and 
there  take  up  their  winter-quarters.  There  was  about 
half  a  mile  to  penetrate,  which,  in  the  present  soft 
state  of  the  pancake  ice,  was  not  very  laborious.  It 
was,  however,  far  from  pleasant,  the  ice  bending  like 
leather  beneath  their  feet,  and  causing  them  some- 
times to  sink  into  the  water,  whence  they  did  not 
escape  without  a  very  cold  bath. 
•  Captain  Parry  was  now  frozen  up  for  another  wintwr 


T  VOTAftia. 

0  spoons  and  a  pewter 
ipiicioti*  receptacle, 
approiichod,  and  Cap- 
It'iily  in  tho  dcptli  of 
K  during  the  whole  of 
tnd  warmth  of  the  air 
ill,  and  left  the  ground 
In  one  moment,  as  it 
lodffincnt,  and  npread 
?  over  land  and  sea. 

nhle  to  reach  the  soil, 
jmianent  and  impene- 
le  snow  were  indeed 

1  varied  and  l)eautiful 
308  at  Melville  Island, 
ipread  over  nature  had 
norc  serious  symptom 
jf  the  soft  or  pancake 
.  The  obstacle  pre- 
st  so  slight  as  to  be 
I  favoining  gale;  but 
le  vessel,  rolling  from 
!s  failing,  became,  like 
lands  of  Lilliputians. 
IS  pieces  of  drift-ice, 
without,  had  been  ce- 
alled  "  the  ice,"  that 
ar  down  upon  the  ves- 

Under  this  combi- 
navigators  could  no 
I  land,  but  determined 
:e  adjoining  floe,  and 
;rs.  There  was  about 
1,  in  the  present  soft 
ot  very  laborious.  It 
t,  the  ice  bending  like 
causing  them  some- 
whence  they  did  not 
h. 
I  up  for  another  wintw 


KIOBirr  NORTH-WIST  TOTAOI0. 


S20 


In  the  midst  of  the  northern  sea,  and  lie  forthwith 
ap|>liud  hiniMclf  tu  make  the  necessary  arraiigeinenta 
with  that  Judi  -ioua  foresight  which  had  been  already 
■o  coiisnicuoui  in  the  same  trying  circuiiiNtancci. 
Througli  lessuHH  taught  by  experience,  and  by  w  vrd 
ingenious  cuiitrivances,  the  ship*  were  much  .  ore 
thoroughly  heated  than  in  the  former  voyage;  tlie 
proviaiotiiiig,  too,  was  more  ample,  and  aiitidotet 
agaiii8t  scurvy  still  more  copiouHly  aupiilied.  Tho 
Polar  tlieatre  opened  on  the  'Jtri  November  with  "  The 
Rivals."  Captains  Parry  and  Lyon  volunteered  tu 
appear  as  Sir  Anfhony  and  Captain  Absolute;  while 
the  ladies  had  very  goiierouHJy  removed  an  ample 
growth  of  beard,  disregarding  tile  comfortable  warmth 
which  it  afl"()nljd  in  an  Arctic  climate.  The  com- 
piny  were  well  received,  and  carried  through  »lieir 
pcriormano(!s  with  unabated  spirit ;  yet  this  season 
docs  not  seem  to  have  gone  off  quite  with  tho  same 
eclat  as  the  precedin;,  Novelty,  from  the  first  the 
chief  attraction,  had  \  .n  ofT,  and  the  discomfort  of 
a  stage,  tiie  exhibitions  of  which  were  attended  with 
a  cold  thirty  degrees  undur  the  freezing  jwint,  became 
rather  severe.  The  sailors  found  for  themselves  a 
more  sober  and  useful,  as  well  as  elBcaci  jus  remedy 
against  ennui.  They  established  a  school,  in  which 
the  better  instructed  undertook  to  revive  the  know- 
ledge of  letters  among  oUiers  who  had  almost  en- 
tirely lost  the  slight  tincture  whidi  they  had  once 
imbibed.  These  hardy  tari  applied  themselves  to 
their  book  with  ardent  and  laudable  zeal,  and  showed 
a  pride  in  their  iv^w  attainments  like  that  of  little 
boys  at  school.  By  Christmas  sixteen  well-writt«n 
copies  were  forthcoming  from  those  who,  two 
months  before,  could  scarcely  forn.  a  letter.  Amid 
these  varied  and  pleasing  occupations,  the  shortest 
day  passt^d  over  their  heads  almost  unobserved, 
especially  as  the  sun  never  entirely  left  them.  Cap- 
tain Lyon  never  saw  a  merrier  Christmas  than  was 
celebrated  on  board.  The  sailors,  being  amply  le- 
U 


230 


RECENT  NORTH-WEST  TOVAOES. 


galed  with  fresh  beef,  cranberry  pies,  and  grog', 
became  so  extremely  elevated,  that  they  insisted  on 
successively  drinking,  with  three  hearty  cheers,  the 
health  of  each  officer. 

The  animal  world,  in  this  less  rigorous  climate, 
even  though  the  ground  was  completely  frozen  over, 
did  not  disappear  so  entirely  as  on  Melville  Island. 
A  few  solitary  hares  were  caught ;  but  they  were  in 
a  miserable  state  of  leanness,  weighing  only  five  or 
six  pounds,  and  had  a  pure  white  covering,  which 
resembled  swan's  down  rather  than  hair.  About  a 
hundred  white  foxes  were  foimd  in  the  nets  during 
the  winter.  These  beautiful  creatures,  when  first 
caught,  were  perfectly  wild  and  ungovernable  ; 
but  shortly  the  young  ones  at  least  threw  off  this 
timidity.  A  delicate  little  animal  found  one  day 
in  the  snare  proved  to  be  an  ermine;  but  it  was 
excessively  frightened,  and  to  the  general  regret 
soon  died. 

The  winter  months  were  also  enlivened  by  various 
beautiful  appearances  which  the  sky  at  that  season 
presented.  The  northern  world,  when  the  sun  de- 
parts, is  by  no  means  involved  in  that  deep,  mono- 
tonous gloom  which  such  a  privation  might  indicate. 
After  that  luminary  has  finally  quitted  the  earth,  and 
the  long  northern  winter  has  closed  in,  the  heavens 
become  a  gay  scene,  through  which  the  most  brilliant 
meteors  are  perpetually  playing.  Those  singular 
and  beautiful  streams  of  light,  called  commonly  the 
Aurora  Borealis,  or  Northern  Morning,  keep  up  an 
almost  incessant  illumination.  They  were  discerned 
in  full  splendour  by  Captains  Parry  and  Lyon  during 
their  Arctic  residence.  The  light  had  a  tendency  to 
form  an  irregular  arch,  which,  in  calm  weather,  was 
often  very  distinct,  though  its  upper  boundary  was 
seldom  well  defined ;  but,  whenever  the  air  became 
agitated,  showers  of  rays  spread  in  every  direction, 
with  the  brilliancy  and  rapidity  of  lightnmg.  Some- 
times lung  bands  of  light  were  spread  out  with 


T  TOVAOES. 

erry  pies,  and  grog', 
that  they  insisted  on 
ee  hearty  cheers,  the 

ess  rigorous  climate, 
•mpletely  frozen  over, 
ELS  on  Melville  Island, 
fht ;  but  they  were  in 
weighing  only  five  or 
vhite  covering,  which 
r  than  hair.  About  a 
id  in  the  nets  during 
creatures,  when  first 
and  ungovernable  ; 
:  least  threw  off  this 
limal  found  one  day 
n  ermine ;  but  it  was 
)  the  general  regret 

» enlivened  by  various 
lie  sky  at  that  season 
Id,  when  the  sun  de- 
in  that  deep,  mono- 
/^ation  might  indicate, 
quitted  the  earth,  and 
closed  in,  the  heavens 
lich  the  most  brilliant 
ng.  Those  singular 
called  commonly  the 
Morning,  keep  up  an 
They  were  discerned 
arry  and  Lyon  during 
ght  had  a  tendency  to 
in  calm  weather,  was 
upper  boundary  was 
lever  the  air  became 
ad  in  every  direction, 
of  lightning.  Some- 
ere  spread  out  with 


RSCSNT  NORTH-WEST  V0TA0E8. 


231 


Inconceivable  rapidity,  but  always  appeanng  to  move 
to  and  from  a  fixed  point,  somewhat  like  a  riband 
held  in  the  hand  and  shaken  with  an  undulatonr 
motion.  No  rule,  however,  could  be  traced  m  the 
movement  of  those  lighter  parcels  called  "the  merry 
dancers,"  which  flew  about  perpetually  m  every 
direction  and  towards,  every  quarter.  In  stormy 
weather  the  northern  lights  always  became  more 
rapid  in  their  motions,  sharing  aU  the  wildness  of 
the  blast.  They  gave  an  indescribable  air  of  magic 
to  the  whole  scene,  and  made  it  not  wonderful,  that 
by  the  untaught  Indian  they  should  be  viewed  as 
"the  spirits  of  his  fathers  roaming  tlurough  the  land 

of  souls."  .        ,     -.1.  . 

Several  questions  have  been  agitated  with  respect 
to  the  Aurora.    It  has  been  said  to  be  accompanied 
with  a  hissing  and  cracking  noise ;  and  indeed  Cap- 
tain Lyon  observes,  that  the  sudden  glare  and  rapid 
bursts  of  those  wondrous  showers  of  fire  make  it 
difficult  to  fancy  their  movements  wholly  without 
sound.   ¥«?!  nothing  was  really  ever  heard.  Captain 
Parry  complains,  that  he  could  not  expose  his  e^s 
to  the  cold  long  enough  completely  to  ascertain  the 
point:  but  Captain  Lyon  declares,  that  he  stood  for 
hours  on  the  ice  listening,  and  at  a  distance  from 
every  sounding  body,  till  he  became  thoroughly  satis- 
fied  that  none  proceeded  from  the  Aurora.    It  has 
been  a  question  whether  this  meteor  hid  the  stars ; 
it  was  generally  decided  that  it  dimmed  the  lustre  of 
those  heavenly  bodies,  as  if  a  thin  gauze  veU  ha 
been  drawn  over  them,— an  effect  which  was  aug- 
mented when  several  luminous  portions  were  spread 
over  each  other.    In  a  clear  atmosphere  these  lights 
shone  with  a  brightness  which  gave  the  impression 
that  they  were  nearer  than  the  clouds :  but  wheneva 
these  last  overspread  the  sky,  the  Aurora  was  tut 
by  them,  and  must  therefore  have  been  more  distant 
To  Captain  Parry  the  light  appeared  to  assume  tints 
of  yellow  and  lilac ;  but  to  Captain  Lyon  its  colour 


333 


RBCBNT  NORTRATZST  TOTAOEB. 


always  resembled  that  of  the  Milky-Way,  or  of  very 
Yivid  sheet-lightning.  The  present  writer  saw  tho 
•aurora  once,  and  only  once,  m  its  utmost  brilliancy, 
and  exhibitmg  all  the  phenomena  described  by  these 
northern  observers,— his  impressions  agreeing  parti 
cularly  with  those  of  Captain  Lyon. 

Other  luminous  meteors,  vising  apparently  from 
the  refraction  caused  by  the  minute  and  highly-crys- 
talhzed  spiculae  of  ice,  appear  in  succession  to  em- 
bellish  the  northern  sky.    The  sun  and  moon  are 
olten  surrounded  with  halos,— concentric  circles  of 
vapour,  tmted  with  the  brightest  hues  of  the  rain- 
•  Y*  1.  ^*''^^''^'  <"■  ™ock  suns,  frequently  adorned 
With  these  accompaniments,  shine  at  once  in  diflFerent 
quarters  of  the  firmament.    EUis,  who  was  with 
Moor  and  Smith  to  Hudson's  Bay,  has  seen  six  in 
one  sky.    They  are  most  brilliant  at  daybreak,  dlmi- 
nish  in  lustre  a-  the  real  sun  ascends,  but  again 
brighten  at  hi   se,   ig.    The  s«n  himself,  for  some 
time  before  he  .:•  -i       ,-  *rts  for  the  winter,  and  also 
after  his  reappear        ,m  spring,  tinges  the  sky  with 
hues  of  match].   ^  •    ^iiancy.    The  edges  of  the 
Clouds  near  that  iuminaiy  often  present  a  fiery  or 
burmshed  appearance,  while  the  opposite  horizon 
glows  with  adefip  purple,  gradually  softening  as  it 
ascends  into  a  delicate  rose-colour  of  inconceivable 
beauty.    As  the  solar  orb  at  these  periods  never 
rises  more  than  a  few  degrees  above  the  horizon,  he 
18,  as  It  Avere,  in  a  state  of  permanent  rising  and  set- 
ting, and  seems  to  exhibit  longer  and  more  variously 
the  beautiful  appearances  arising  out  of  that  position. 
At  this  time  the  naked  eye  can  view  him  without 
being  dazzled;   and  Captain  Lyon  considers  the 
softened  blush-colour,  which  his  rays  exhibit  through 
frost,  as  possessing  a  charm  which  surpasses  even 
that  of  an  Italian  sky. 

Amid  all  these  resources,  the  monotony  of  the 
scene  was  begimiing  to.be  oppressive,  when  it  was 
relieved  by  an  unexpected  incident,  which  attracted 


r  TOTAOES. 

Hilky-Way,  or  of  very 
esent  writer  sjiw  tlw 

its  utmost  brilliancy, 
na  described  by  these 
ssions  agreeing  parti 
jyon. 

sing  apparently  from 
mile  and  highly-crys- 
n  succession  to  em- 
e  sun  and  moon  are 
-concentric  circles  of 
St  hues  of  the  rain- 
,  frequently  adorned 
le  at  once  in  different 
Illis,  who  was  with 
Bay,  has  seen  six  in 
nt  at  daybreak,  dlmi- 
I  ascends,  but  again 
njn  himself,  for  some 
r  the  winter,  imd  also 
,  tinges  the  sky  with 

The  edges  of  the 
n  present  a  fiery  or 
lie  opposite  horizon 
lally  softening  as  it 
)ur  of  inconceivable 
these  periods  never 
bove  the  horizon,  he 
inent  rising  and  set- 

and  more  variously 
out  of  that  position, 
n  view  him  without 
.yon  considers  the 
rajrs  exhibit  through 
lich  surpasses  even 

J  monotony  of  the 
ssive,  when  it  was 
iut,  which  attracted 


RECBNT  NORTH-WEST  V0TA0X9. 


283 


univereal  attention.  On  the  morning  of  the  let 
February,  a  number  of  distant  figures  were  seen 
moving  over  the  ice,  and,  when  they  were  viewed 
through  glasses,  the  cry  was  raised,  "  Esquimaux ! 
Esquimaux !"  As  it  was  of  great  importance  to  deal 
courteously  and  discreetly  with  these  strangers,  the 
two  commanders  formed  a  party  of  six,  who  walked 
in  files  behind  each  other,  that  they  might  cause  no 
alarm.  The  Esquimaux  then  formed  themselves 
into  a  line  of  twenty-one,  advanced  slowly,  and  at 
length  made  a  full  stop.  In  this  order  they  saluted 
the  strangers  by  the  usual  movement  of  beating  their 
breasts.  They  were  substantially  clothed  in  rich 
and  dark  deer-skins,  and  appeared  a  much  more  quiet 
and  orderly  race  than  their  rude  countrymen  of  the 
Savage  Islands.  On  the  English  producing  their 
precious  commodities,  knives,  nails,  and  needles,  an 
active  traffic  was  set  on  foot ;  and  the  females,  on 
seeing  that  much  importance  was  attached  to  the 
skins  which  formed  their  clothing,  began  immediately 
to  strip  off"  those  with  which  their  fair  persons  were 
covered.  The  captains  felt  alarm  for  the  conse- 
quences, under  a  temperature  more  than  fifty  degrees 
below  the  freezing  point;  but  were  soon  consoled 
by  discerning  underneath  another  comfortable  suit. 
They  were  now  cordially  invited  to  enter  their  habita- 
tions, to  which  they  agreed  most  readily,  only  that 
there  appeared  no  habitations  to  enter.  However, 
they  were  led  to  a  hole  in  the  snow,  and  instructed 
to  place  themselves  on  their  hands  and  knees,  in 
which  position,  having  crept  through  a  long  winding 
passage,  they  arrived  at  a  little  hall  with  a  dome- 
shaped  roof,  whence  doors  opened  into  three  apart- 
ments, each  occupied  by  a  separate  family.  These 
proved  to  be  five  distinct  mansions,  tenanted  by 
sixty-four  men,  women,  and  children.  The  mate- 
rials  and  structure  of  these  abodes  were  still  more 
singular  than  their  position.  Snow,  the  chief  pro- 
duct of  the  northern  tempests,  became  here  a  pro- 
IJ  8 


884 


UOKNT  KOttTH-WCST  VOTAOSS. 


tection  against  its  OMm  cold.  It  was  formed  into 
curved  slabs  of  about  two  feet  long  and  hdlf  a  R^t 
thick,  put  together  by  a  most  judicious  masonfy,  so 
as  to  present  a  species  of  doine-«haped  structures, 
rising  six  or  seven  feet  above  the  ground,  and  about 
fourteen  or  sixteen  feet  in  diameter.  The  mode  of 
inserting  the  key-slab,  which  bound  the  whole  toge- 
.ther,  would,  it  is  said,  have  been  satisfactory  to  the 
eye  of  a  regularly-bred  artist.  A  plate  of  ice  in  the 
roof  served  as  a  window,  and  admitted  the  light  as 
through  ground  glass ;  which,  when  it  shone  on  the 
interior  mansions,  in  their  first  state  of  pure  and 
beautiful  trauspiirency,  produced  soft  and  glittering 
tints  of  green  and  blue.  But,  alas !  ere  long,  accu- 
mulated dirt,  smoke,  and  offal,  converted  these  apart- 
ments into  a  scene  of  blackness  and  stench.  This 
little  village  appeared  at  first  like  a  cluster  of  hillocks 
amid  the  snow;  but  successive  falls  filled  up  the 
vacuities,  and  converted  it  almost  into  a  smooth  sur- 
face»  so  that  even  boys  and  dogs  were  seen  walking 
and  sporting  over  the  roofs ;  though,  as  summer  and 
thaw  advanced,  a  leg  sometimes  penetrated,  and 
appeared  to  the  alarmed  inmates  below.  Then,  too, 
the  ceiling  begins  to  drip ;  and  the  tenants,  after  re- 
peatedly endeavouring  to  patch  it  with  fresh  slabs, 
and  catching,  of  course,  some  severe  colds,  are  obliged 
to  betake  themselves  to  a  more  durable  covering.  In 
eacn  room,  suspended  fron\  the  roof,  burns  a  lamp, 
with  a  long  wick  formed  of  a  peculiar  species  of 
moss,  fed  with  the  oil  of  the  seal  or  the  walrus,  and 
serving  at  once  for  light,  heat,  and  cookery.  The 
family  sit  round  the  apartment,  on  a  bench  formed 
of  snow,  strewed  with  slender  twigs  and  covered 
with  skins ;  but  this  part  of  the  dwelling;  must  be 
carefully  kept  a  good  deal  below  the  freezing-point, 
since  a  higher  temperature  would  speedily  dissolve 
the  walls  of  the  frail  tenement. 

After  a  cheerful  and  friendly  visit,  an  invitation 
was  given  to  the  Esquimaux  to  repair  to  the  ships* 


[■  VOTAOBS. 

It  was  fonned  into 
t  long  and  h<df  a  luut 
udicious  masonry,  so 
ne-«haped  stractoran, 
he  ground,  and  abont 
neler.  The  mode  of 
ouiid  the  whole  toge- 
en  satisfactory  to  the 

A  plate  of  ice  in  the 
idmitted  the  light  as 
when  it  shone  on  the 
It  state  of  pure  and 
d  soft  and  glittering 
alas !  ere  long,  accu- 
)nverted  these  apart- 
is  and  stench.  This 
B  a  cluster  of  hillocks 
ve  falls  filled  up  the 
St  into  a  smooth  sur- 
:s  were  seen  walkina' 
)ugh,  as  summer  and 
nes  penetrated,  and 
8  below.  Then,  too, 
the  tenants,  after  re- 
1  it  with  fresh  slabs, 
rere  colds,  are  obliged 
lurable  covering.  In 
e  roof,  bums  a  lamp, 
,  peculiar  species  of 
ai  or  the  walrus,  and 
,  and  cookery.  The 
^  on  a  bench  formed 
'  twigs  and  covered 
le  dwelling  must  be 
w  the  freezing-point, 
lid  speedily  Sssolve 

'  visit,  an  invitation 
>  repair  to  the  shift, 


j 


KSCtm  NORTH-WEST  V0TA0E9. 


235 


when  fifty  accepted  it  with  alacrity.  Partly  walk- 
ine,  and  partly  dancing,  they  soon  reached  the  ves- 
•els,  where  a  striking  congeniality  of  spirit  was  soon 
found  to  exist  between  them  and  the  sailors;  bois- 
terous fun  forming  to  each  the  chief  source  of  en- 
joyment. A  fiddle  and  drum  being  produced,  the 
nutivt  .  '•  up  a  danc«,  or  rather  a  succession  of 
vehem>  icaps,  accompanied  with  loud  shouts  and 
yells.  Seeing  the  Kabloonas  or  Whites,  as  they 
called  the  strangers,  engaged  in  the  game  of  leap-frog, 
they  attempted  to  join ;  but  not  duly  understanding 
how  to  measure  their  movements,  they  made  such 
over-leaps  as  sometimes  to  pitch  on  the  crown  of  their 
heads :  however  they  sprang  up  quite  unconcerned. 
Their  attention  was  specially  attracted  to  the  effects 
of  a  winch,  by  which  one  sailor  forcibly  drew  to- 
wards him  a  party  of  ten  or  twelve  of  their  number, 
though  grinnmg  and  straining  every  nerve  in  resist- 
ance ;  but  finding  all  in  vain,  they  joined  in  the  burst 
of  gcod-humoured  laughter  till  tears  streamed  from 
their  eyes.  One  intelligent  old  man  followed  Cap- 
fain  Lyon  to  the  cabin,  and  viewed  with  rational 
surprise  various  objects  which  were  presented.  The 
performance  of  a  hand-organ  and  a  musical  snuff-box 
struck  him  with  breathless  admii-ation ;  and  on  see- 
ing drawings  of  the  Esquimaux  in  Hudson's  Strait, 
he  soon  understood  them,  and  showed  the  difference 
between  their  dress  and  appearance  and  that  of  his 
own  tribe.  On  seeing  the  sketch  of  a  bear,  he  raised 
a  loud  cry,  drew  up  his  sleeves,  and  showed  the  scars 
of  three  deep  wounds  received  in  encounters  with 
that  terrible  animal.  The  seamen  sought  to  treat 
their  visiters  to  such  delicacies  as  their  ship  afforded, 
but  were  for  some  time  at  a  loss  to  discover  how  their 
palate  might  be  gratified.  Grog,  the  seaman's 
choicest  luxury,  only  one  old  woman  could  be  in- 
duced to  taste.  Sugar,  sweetmeats,  gingerbread, 
were  accepted  only  out  of  complaisance,  and  eaten 
«rith  maaifest  disgust}  but  train-oil,  entrails  of  ani- 


■  'H^SS?^.. 


336 


MCKNT  IfOnTH-tfEBT  VOTAOS«. 


mals,  and  any  tiling  consisting  of  pure  fat  or  greuei 
were  swallowed  in  immense  quantities,  ana  with 
symptoms  of  exquisite  delight.  This  taste  was  first 
evmced  by  an  old  woman,  who,  having  sold  her  oil- 
pot,  took  care  previously  to  empty  the  content*  into 
her  stomach,  and  lick  it  clean  with  her  tongue,  re- 
gardless of  her  face  becoming  thus  as  black  as  soot. 
Captain  Lyon,  being  disposed  to  ingratiate  himself 
with  rather  a  handsome  young  damsel,  presented  her 
with  a  good  moulded  candle,  six  in  the  pound.  She 
immediately  began  to  eat  off  the  tallow  with  every 
symptom  of  the  greatest  enjoyment,  after  which  she 
thrust  the  wick  into  her  mouth;  but  the  Captain, 
concerned  for  the  consequences  to  this  delicate 
virgin,  insisted  on  pulling  it  out.  In  preference  to 
strong  liquors  they  drank  water  in  the  most  enor- 
mous quantities,  by  gallons  at  a  time,  and  two  quarts 
at  a  draught ;  a  supply  of  liquid  which  is  perhaps  ne- 
cessary to  dissolve  their  gross  food,  and  which,  being 
obtained  only  from  snow  artificially  mehed,  is  a  scarce 
winter  article. 

The  Esquimaux  were  attended  by  a  large  pack  of 
wolves,  which  seemed  to  follow  solely  to  pick  up 
whatever  might  be  found  straggling  or  defenceless 
about  their  habitation.  These  animals  continued 
through  the  whole  winter  ravening  with  hunger,  and 
in  eager  watch  for  any  victim  which  might  come 
within  their  reach.  For  this  purpose  they  took  a  sta- 
tion  between  the  huts  and  tlie  ships,  ready  to  act 
against  either  as  circumstances  might  dictate.  They 
did  not  attack  the  sailors  even  when  unarmed,  though 
they  were  often  seen  hovering  through  the  gloom  in 
search  of  prey.  Every  stray  dog  was  seized,  and  in 
a  few  minutes  devoured.  Two  wolves  broke  into 
a  snow-house  close  to  the  ship,  and  carried  off  each 
a  dog  larger  than  himself;  but,  being  pursued,  one 
of  them  was  obliged  to  drop  his  booty.  In  the  ex. 
tremity  of  their  hunger  they  hesitated  not  to  tear 
and  devour  the  cables  and  canvass  found  lying  new 


nr*" 


VOTAOSa. 

)f  pure  fat  or  creue, 
luantities,  and  with 
This  taste  was  first 
having  sold  her  oil- 
3ty  the  contents  into 
with  her  tongue,  re- 
hus  as  black  as  soot. 
0  ingratiate  himself 
amscl,  presented  her 
i  in  the  pound.  She 
le  tallow  with  every 
nent,  after  which  she 
h;  but  the  Captain, 
!es  to  this  delicate 
t.  In  preference  to 
;r  in  the  most  enor- 
time,  and  two  quarts 
which  is  perhaps  nc- 
)od,  and  which,  being 
lly  melted,  is  a  scarce 

d  by  a  large  pack  of 
w  solely  to  pick  up 
gling  or  defenceless 
!  animals  continued 
ing  with  hunger,  and 
which  might  come 
rpose  they  took  a  sta- 
sh ips,  ready  to  act 
night  dictate.  They 
hen  unarmed,  though 
hrough  the  gloom  in 
>g  was  seized,  and  in 
9  wolves  broke  into 
and  carried  off  each 
:,  being  pursued,  one 
s  booty.  In  the  ex- 
lesitated  not  to  tear 
ass  found  lying  new 


KECENT   NORTM-WEST   VOYAGES. 


237 


the  vessel.  A  deadly  war  was  therefore  waged  anainst 
these  fierce  animals,  of  which  thirteen  were  killed 
in  the  course  of  the  season,  and  sent  to  be  eaten  by 
the  Esquimaux,— a  present  which  was  received  wiui 
much  satisfaction. 

As  spring  advanced,  the  attention  of  the  officers 
was  almost  wholly  engrossed  by  the  prospects  of 
navigation  and  discovery  during  the  approaching 
summer.  Their  Esquimaux  neighbours  by  no  means 
destitute  of  intelligence,  and  accustomed  to  shift 
continually  from  place  to  place,  were  found  to  have 
acquired  a  very  extensive  knowledge  of  the  seas  and 
coasts  of  this  part  of  America.  One  female,  in  par- 
ticular, named  Iligliuk,  who  bore  even  among  her 
countrymen  the  character  of  a  "  wise  woman,"  was, 
after  a  little  instruction,  enabled  to  convey  to  the 
strangers  the  outlines  of  her  geographical  knowledge, 
in  the  form  of  a  rude  map.  A  pencil  being  put  into 
her  hand,  she  tn^-ed  the  shore  from  Repulse  Bay 
with  such  a  tok  le  measure  of  accuracy  as  in- 
spired great  confia  lice  in  what  she  might  farther  de- 
lineate.  Iligliuk  then  began  to  exhibit  a  coast 
reaching  far  to  the  north,  being,  in  fact,  the  eastern 
limits  of  Melville  peninsula.  Next  her  pencil  took 
a  westward  direction,  when  her  farther  progress  was 
watched  with  the  deepest  interest ;  upon  which  she 
was  seen  tracing  a  strait  between  opposite  lands,  • 
that  extended  westward  till  it  opened  on  each  side, 
and  spread  into  an  apparently  unbounded  ocean. 
This  delineation,  which  promised  to  fulfil  their  most 
sanguine  hopes,  gratified  the  officers  beyond  mea- 
sure, and  they  loaded  Iligliuk  with  attentions  which 
uiiluckily  soon  turned  her  head,  and  made  her  so 
conceited  and  disdainful  that  they  were  obliged  to 
discontinue  their  notice  of  her. 

Captain  Lyon,  in  the  middle  of  March,  undertook 
a  journey  across  a  piece  of  land,  lying  between  the 
station  of  the  ships  and  the  continent,  which  had 
beeu  named  Winter  Island.   The  party  wtre  scarcely 


988 


MOINT  NORTR-WXflT  VOTAOIC. 


gone  when  they  encountered  a  heavy  gale,  bring[in; 
with  it  clouds  of  drift,  with  a  cold  bo  intense,  that 
they  could  not  stop  for  a  moment  without  having 
their  faces  covered  with  frost-bites.  After  some 
vain  struggles  they  determined  to  pitch  their  tent ; 
but  as  the  temperature  within  was  at  zero,  anJ  was 
continually  lowering,  they  felt  that  they  could  not 
live  through  the  night  under  this  shelter.  They 
therefore  dug  a  cave  in  the  earth,  and  by  huddling 
together  round  a  fire,  immersed  in  smoke,  to  which 
no  vent  was  allowed,  contrived  to  keep  up  a  degree 
of  warmth,  thongh  still  ten  or  fifteen  degrees  below 
the  freezing  point.  In  the  morning  their  sledge  was 
too  deeply  buried  beneath  the  drift  to  leave  any  hope 
of  diggmg  it  out,  and  they  could  reach  the  ships, 
now  six  miles  distant,  only  by  proceeding  on  foot 
through  a  tempest  of  snow  falling  so  thick  that  they 
could  not  see  a  yard  before  them.  Finding  some, 
times  no  track,  sometimes  several  leading  in  diflferent 
directions,  they  were  soon  bewildered,  and  wandered 
they  knew  not  where  among  h^avy  hummocks  of 
ice.  The  frost-bites  were  so  numerous  that  they 
eould  not  muster  hands  enough  to  rub  the  parts 
affected,  and  some  began  to  sink  into  that  dreadful 
insensibility  which  is  the  prelude  to  death  by  cold, 
and  to  reel  about  like  drunxen  men.  Thus  they  had 
resigned  almost  every  hope  of  deliverance,  when 
providentially  there  appeared  a  new  beaten  track, 
which  they  determined  to  follow,  and  in  ten  minutes 
it  led  them  to  the  ships.  Theii  arrival  there  caused 
indescribable  joy,  as  they  had  been  nearly  given  up 
for  lost,  while  no  party  could  be  sent  in  search  of 
them  without  imminent  risk  of  sharing  their  fate. 

On  the  8th  May,  in  a  more  favourable  season, 
Captain  Lyon  undertook  another  journey.  In  a  few 
hours  he  crossed  Winter  Island,  and  reached  the 
strait  separating  it  from  the  continent,  covered  with 
heavy-grounded  ice  very  difficult  to  walk  upon.  The 
sun.  now  powerful,  produced  such  a  glare  on  the 


1- 


IT  VOTAOIS. 

a  heavy  gale,  bringing 
I  cold  no  intense,  that 
oment  without  having 
tst-bites.  After  some 
ed  to  pitch  their  tent ; 
I  was  at  zero,  anJ  was 
It  that  they  could  not 
r  this  shelter.  They 
mnh,  and  by  huddling 
ed  in  smoke,  to  which 
)d  to  keep  up  a  degree 
r  fifteen  degrees  below 
tming  their  sledge  was 
drift  to  leave  any  hope 
iould  reach  the  ships, 
y  proceeding  on  foot 
Uing  so  thick  that  they 
them.  Finding  some. 
3ral  leading  in  different 
aldered,  and  wandered 
■  h'-avy  hummocks  of 
D  numerous  that  they 
ugh  to  rub  the  parts 
ink  into  that  dreadful 
lude  to  death  by  cold, 
men.  Thus  they  had 
of  deliverance,  when 
I  a  new  beaten  track, 
ivr.  and  in  ten  minutes 
ii  arrival  there  caused 
been  nearly  given  up 
be  sent  in  search  of 
r  sharing  their  fate. 
re  favourable  season, 
ler  journey.  In  a  few 
md,  and  reached  the 
intinent,  covered  with 
lit  to  walk  upon.  The 
such  a  glare  on  the 


m 


RECENT  NORTH-WEST   VOYAflES. 


239 


snow  as  affected  several  of  the  party  with  severe 
blindneiR ;  while  the  only  mean:,  of  procuring  water 
was  by  holding  up  plates  of  ice  in  the  solar  ruys,  by 
which  they  were  gradually  melted.  The  party,  hav- 
mg  reached  the  mainland,  proceeded  a  considerable 
way  along  the  coast,  crossing  several  bays  upon  the 
ice ;  but  at  last  they  came  in  view  of  a  bold  cape, 
which  they  fondly  and  vainly  hoped  was  the  extreme 
point  of  America.  Here  tliey  were  ovi,ri.>ken  by  a 
storm  of  snow,  but  not  accompiinied,  like  thn  fornuer, 
with  perilous  cold ;  it  melted  as  it  fell,  and  formed  a 
pulp  which  penetrated  into  their  tents,  yet  did  not 
dissolve  so  completely  as  to  be  fit  for  drinking.  This 
storm  kept  them  imprisoned  for  sixty-eight  hours ; 
which  dreary  interval  they  enlivened  by  reading  in 
turn  from  three  books  they  chanced  to  have  with 
them,  and  as  soon  as  the  sun  began  to  gleam  they 
hastened  to  return  to  the  ships. 

The  end  of  May  presented  a  gloomy  aspect,  the 
season  being  still  more  backward  than  in  tlie  more 
noitherly  and  rigorous  climate  of  Melville  Island. 
The  snow  was  dissolved  only  on  some  spots,  and 
hardly  any  symptoms  of  vegetation  were  yet  visible ; 
but  as  there  was  an  extent  of  open  water  in  the  sea 
without.  Captain  Parry  determined  npon  sawing  his 
way  through  to  it.  TTiis  was  a  most  laborious  pro- 
cess, the  ice  being  much  thicker  and  stronger  than 
at  the  commencement  of  the  season ;  and  after  the 
seamen  had  continued  at  it  more  than  a  fortnight, 
and  were  within  forty-eight  hours  of  completing  a 
canal,  the  body  of  the  ice  made  a  movement  which 
closed  it  entirely  up.  As  they  were  looking  on  in 
despair  at  this  disaster,  another  passage  opened, 
which  they  attempted  to  render  available.  Tliis  too 
was  closed  in  the  same  manner ;  but  these  agitations 
had  at  last  thu  effect  of  causing  the  whole  mass  to 
float  out  into  the  open  sea,  and  thus  leaving  to  them 
an  unobstructed  passage. 

On  the  2d  July  the  ships  began  their  career  of 


MO 


IIKCCNT   NOHTn-WMT  TOYAOI*. 


diHcovery.  Itiey  ha(!  a  favourable  run  throuf^h  thia 
ftca,  wliioli  formed  a  continuation  of  Fox'h  Channel ; 
but  a  atroni;  current  from  the  north  was  britigini; 
down  tlio  masses  of  ice  with  great  force.  The  Hecla 
undf  rwent  some  severe  pressures,  and,  within  five  or 
six  hundred  yards  of  the  Fury,  two  large  floct* 
dashed  against  each  other  with  such  a  tremen- 
dous concucision,  that  numberless  huge  masses  were 
thrown  fifty  or  sixty  feet  into  the  air.  The  vessel, 
haii  she  come  for  a  moment  within  the  sphere  of 
-these  movements,  must  have  been  dashed  to  pieces,— 
happily,  she  escaped.  This  current,  however,  waa 
hiirhly  promising,  Mince  it  could  not  be  traced  to  the 
mouth  of  Hudson's  Straits,  but  must  have  come  from 
the  western  ocean  which  they  were  so  anxious  to 
reach. 

The  ice  pnsscd  by,  and  the  ships  proceeded  with  a 
favouring  wind  and  tide.  Tlie  snores  began  now  to 
put  on  their  summer  aspect ;  the  snow  had  nearly 
disappeared ;  and  the  ground  was  covered  with  the 
richest  bloom  of  Arctic  vecetation.  The  expedition 
came  to  a  fine  river  named  Barrow,  which  formed  a 
most  picturesque  fall  down  rocks  richly  fringed  with 
very  brilliunt  plants.  Here  the  reindeer  sporting, 
the  cider-duck,  the  golden  plover,  and  the  snow- 
bunting,  spreading  their  wings,  produced  a  gay  and 
delightful  scene.  On  the  14th  tlie  navigators  reached 
the  island  of  Amitioke,  which  had  been  described  us 
situated  near  tl>e  strait  they  were  then  endeavouring 
to  reach.  They  saw  about  two  hundred  walruses 
lying  piled,  as  usual,  over  each  other  on  the  loose 
d^ft-ice.  A  boat's  crew  from  each  ship  proceeded 
to  the  attack ;  but  these  gallant  amphibia,  some  with 
their  cubs  mounted  on  their  backs,  made  the  most 
desperate  resistance,  and  one  of  them  tore  the  planks 
of  a  boat  in  two  or  three  places.  Three  only  were 
killed,  the  flesh  of  which  %vas  found  tolerable,  afford- 
ing a  variety  amid,  the  ordinary  sea-diet. 

The  discoverers  now  proceeded  northwards,  and 


•T  TOTAOla. 

urable  run  throuffh  thia 
tion  of  Fox'h  Channel ; 
lie  north  was  britigini; 
Teat  force.  The  Hecla 
iirea,  and,  within  five  or 
Fury,  two  large  floct* 
with  Huch  a  tremen- 
lesH  huge  maflses  were 
0  the  air.  The  vcfwel, 
within  the  sphere  of 
een  dashed  to  pieces, — 
current,  however,  waa 
lid  not  be  traced  to  the 
t  must  have  come  from 
ly  were  so  anxious  to 

ships  proceeded  with  a 
le  snores  besan  now  to 
;  the  snow  had  nearly 
was  covered  with  the 
ation.  The  expedition 
arrow,  which  formed  a 
cks  richly  fringed  with 
the  reindeer  sporting, 
plover,  and  the  snow- 
[8,  produced  a  gay  and 
tlie  navigators  reached 
had  been  described  us 
veve  then  endeavouring 
two  hundred  walruses 
ich  other  on  the  loose 
rn  each  ship  proceeded 
It  amphibia,  some  with 
backs,  made  the  most 
of  them  tore  the  planks 
ces.  Three  only  were 
fotmd  tolerable,  afford- 
ry  sea-diet, 
eedcd  northwards,  and 


UrCKNT  N0RTII-**'i:ST  VnVAOES. 


ii41 


saw  before  'liom  n  ixiiil  and  liiifh  niiiir*'  of  coast,  se- 
parated ap,iiirtMitiy  from  that  along  whicii  they  were 
Nailing.  Tiiis  feature  agret'int;  with  tiie  indicutiona 
of  the  fair  lligliuk,  llHttcrcd  tiieni  that  they  were 
approaching  the  siruit  exhibited  by  her  as  loriiiing 
the  entrance  into  the  Polar  basin.  They  pushed  on 
full  of  hope  an<l  aniniHtion,  and  were  farther  clieere(i 
liy  reaching  the  small  iNland  of  iKloolik,  wliicli  she 
had  described  as  situated  at  the  very  commencement 
of  liie  paissHge.  Accordingly  tlu  y  HiMtn  nhw  the  Mtrait 
stretching  westward  beftire  ihe?n  in  long  persjw!- 
tive ;  but,  ax !  they  discovered  t  the  niune  moment 
an  nnbroKnn  sheet  of  ice  fr'i  n  shore  to  Nhore,  croNs- 
ing  and  blocking  up  the  pa.-.i  iire ;  and  this  not  a  loose 
accidental  floe,  b«'  the  ic  lu  »h»j  preceding  winter, 
on  which  the  niiu.^unnner  tiun  had  not  produced  the 
slightest  chk.'ge.  Uii :',  '.^  to  adva'  -e  a  sii  j  !e  step, 
Ihe^  amused  themsrlves  with  l>  ni-exciuiions  ni 
diflerent  directions;  luid  Caplaii'  irry  at  length 
determined,  on  the  lllh  Augiis'  v  ili  a  party  of  six, 
to  undertake  an  expedition  aloi  ,;  Uie  frozen  "urface 
of  the  strait.  The  >,'«  y  was  very  labor  i  i,  the 
ice  being  sometimes  1  ;t  u  .^  i  up  in  rugged  hui. , ,  locks, 
and  occasionally  lea-  Mig  I  ,  jje  spncrs  of  open  water, 
which  it  was  necssary  to  cross  tm  a  plank,  or  on 
pieces  of  ice  instead  of  boats.  In  four  days  they 
came  in  view  of  a  peninsula  tenninated  by  a  bold 
cape,  the  approach  to  winch  was  guard«!d  by  succeK- 
sive  ranges  of  strata,  resembling  the  tiers  or  galleries 
of  a  high  and  commanding  fortification.  The  party, 
however,  scrambled  'o  the  summit,  whence  they 
enjoyed  a  most  gratilying  spectacle.  They  were  at 
the  narrowest  part  of  the  strait,  here  about  two  miles 
across,  with  a  tide  or  current  ruiming  through  it  at 
the  rate  of  two  miles  an  hour.  Westward  the  sliores 
on  each  side  receded,  till,  for  three  (mints  of  the 
compass  and  amid  a  clear  horizon,  no  land  wai^ 
visible.  The  captain  doubted  not  that  from  this  po- 
nxktn  he  beheld  the  Polar  sea ;  into  which,  notwiih- 


iiiLiaiJiuiiiipl.iiimiiL 


iilUi»ftiija!M%j^,|liiJMi.jj|f,iyii>^i|||0|Mj  jjiy^wy^^^^^  - 


«49 


RSCKNT  NORTH-WEST  V0TA0B8. 


standing  the  formidable  barriers  of  ice  which  Inter* 
vened,  he  cherished  the  most  sanguine  hopes  of 
forcing  his  way.  '  'e  named  this  the  strait  of  the 
Fury  and  Hecla,  a  1  gave  the  sailora  an  extra  can 
of  grog,  to  drink  a  safe  and  speedy  passage  through 
its  channel. 

Captain  Parry  now  lost  no  time  in  returning  to  the 
ships,  where  his  arrival  was  joyful  and  seasonable ; 
for  the  opposing  barrier,  which  had  been  gradually 
softening  and  breaking  into  various  rents  and  fissures, 
at  once  almost  entirely  disappeared,  and  the  vessels 
next  morning  were  in  open  water.  On  the  Slst 
they  got  under  way ;  and,  though  retarded  by  fogs 
and  other  obstructions,  had  arrived  on  the  26th  at 
that  central  and  narrowest  channel  which  the  com- 
mander had  formerly  reached.  A  brisk  bteeze  now 
sprang  up,  the  sky  cleared,  they  dashed  across  a  cur- 
rent of  three  or  four  knots  an  hour,  and  sanguinely 
hoped  for  an  entire  success,  which  would  compensate 
so  many  delays  and  disappointments.  Suddenly, 
from  the  crow's  nest  above,  it  was  announced  that 
ice,  in  a  continuous  and  impenetrable  field,  unmoved 
from  its  winter  station,  occupied  the  whole  breadth 
of  the  channel.  In  an  hour  they  reached  this  barrier,' 
which  they  found  soft,  porous,  and  what  is  termed 
rotten.  Spreading  all  their  canva8s,they  bore  down 
upon  it,  and  'sctually  forced  their  way  throuf.'h  a 
space  of  three  or  four  hundred  yards ;  but  there  the;' 
stuck,  and  found  their  progress  arrested  by  a  fis  ei^ 
and  impenetrable  mass.  From  this  point,  during  the 
whole  season,  the  ships  were  unable  to  advance  a 
single  step.  Nor  had  the  crews  any  means  ci  ax- 
erting  their  activity  except  in  land-joumeys.  Cap- 
tain Lyon  undertook  an  expedition  southward,  to 
ascertain  if  any  inlet  or  passage  from  sea  to  sea  in 
this  direction  had  escaped  notice.  The  country, 
however,  was  so  filled  with  rugged  and  rocky  hills, 
some  a  thousand  feet  high,  and  with  chains  of  lakes 
in  which  much  ice  was  floating,  that  he  could  not  pro- 


>YA0E8. 

ice  which  inter* 
iguine  hopes  of 
the  strait  of  the 
ors  an  extra  can 
passage  through 

1  returning  to  the 
and  seasonable; 
1  been  gradually 
ents  and  fissures, 
,  and  the  vessels 
r.  On  the  Slst 
retarded  by  fogs 
A  on  the  26th  at 
which  the  com- 
)ri8k  breeze  now 
lied  across  a  cur- 
,  and  sanguinely 
ould  compensate 
ents.  Suddenly, 
announced  that 
le  field,  unmoved 
e  whole  breadth 
ched  this  barrier,' 
what  is  termed 
,they  bore  down 
r  way  throuf;h  a 
;  but  there  the;' 
58ted  by  a  fijei^ 
point,  during  the 
le  to  advance  a 
ly  means  ct  ax- 
journeys.  Cap- 
1  southward,  to 
)m  sea  to  sea  in 
The  country, 
and  rocky  hills, 
1  chains  of  lakes 
le  could  not  pro- 


RECENT  NORTH-WEST  VOYAGES. 


243 


ceed  above  seven  miles.  Though  it  M'as  the  begin- 
ning of  September,  the  season  was  only  that  of  early 
sprmg;  and  the  buds  of  the  poppy  and  saxifrage 
were  just  unfolding,  to  be  prematurely  nipped  by  the 
fast-approaching  winter. 

More  satisfactory  information  was  derived  from 
another  excursion  made  by  Messrs.  Reid  and  Bush- 
man, who  penetrated  sixty  miles  westward  along 
the  southern  coast  of  Cockburn  Island,  till  they 
reached  a  pinnacle,  whence  they  saw,  beyond  all 
doubt,  the  Polar  ocean  spreading  its  boundless  ex- 
panse before  them ;  but  tremendous  barriers  of  ice 
filled  the  strait,  and  precluded  all  approach  towards 
that  great  and  desired  object. 

It  was  now  the  middle  of  September,  and  the 
usual  symptoms,  of  deer  trooping  in  herds  southward, 
floating  pieces  of  ice  consolidating  into  masses,  and 
the  thin  pancake  crust  forming  on  the  surface  of  the 
waters,  reminded  the  mariners,  not  only  that  they 
could  hope  for  no  farther  removal  of  the  obstacles 
which  arrested  their  progress,  but  that  they  must 
lose  no  time  in  providing  winter-quarters.  The 
middle  of  the  strait,  at  the  spot  where  they  had  been 
first  stopped,  occurred  as  the  station  whence  they 
would  be  most  likely  to  push  future  discovery ;  but 
prudence  suggested  a  doubt,  whether  the  ships,  en- 
closed in  this  icy  prison  with  such  strong  barriers  on 
*ach  side,  might  ever  be  able  to  effect  their  extrica- 
tion. It  appeared,  at  all  events,  a  serious  considera- 
tion, that  they  might  be  shut  up  here  for  eleven 
months,  surrounded  by  rocks  and  ice,  amid  the  pri- 
vations of  an  Arctic  winter.  By  returning  to  Igloo- 
lik,  they  would  be  ready  to  catch  the  earhest  open- 
ing, wmch  was  expected  to  take  place  on  the  east- 
em  side,  from  whence  a  few  days  would  then  bring 
them  to  their  present  station. 

On  the  30th  October,  by  the  usual  operation  of 
sawing,  the  ships  were  established  in  a  harbour  at 
Igloplik.    The  ensuing  season  was  passed  with  the 


•r 


S44 


RECENT  NORTH-WEST  V0VA0E8. 


most  careful  attention  to  the  health  and  comfort  of 
the  crews ;  but  thougli  their  spirits  did  sink,  there 
appear^  to  have  been,  on  the  whole,  less  of  srayety  and 
ligTitness  of  heart  than  in  the  two  former  winterings. 
We  hear  nothing  of  the  drama  or  even  of  the  school. 
In  this  position,  north  of  Winter  Island,  they  were 
deprived  for  about  seven  weeks  of  tlie  sun's  cheering 
beams.  On  the  2d  December  refraction  still  showed, 
from  the  deck  of  the  Fury,  about  the  sixteenth  part 
of  his  disk.  About  the  new  year,  Arcturus  and  Ca- 
pella,  stars  of  the  first  magnitude,  were  visible  for 
naif  an  hour  before  and  after  midday.  On  the  5th 
January  (1823),  the  horizon  was  so  brightly  suf- 
fused  with  red,  that  they  hoped  ere  long  to  see  the 
sun's  orb  burst  forth ;  but  a  fortnight  of  thick  fog 
occasioned  a  disappointment.  On  the  1 9th,  the  sky 
having  cleared,  they  saw  him  rise,  attended  by  two 
parhelia,  and  both  crews  turned  out  to  enjoy  the 
novelty  and  splendour  of  this  cheering  spectacle. 

The  sailors  found  at  Igloolik  a  col  ny  of  Esqui- 
maux, who  received  (hem  at  first  with  surprise  and 
some  degree  of  alarm ;  but,  on  learning  they  were 
from  Winter  Island  and  intimate  with  its  tenants  of 
last  season,  they  hailed  them  at  once  as  familiar 
acquaintances.  These  natives  belonged  to  the  same 
tribe,  and  were  connected  by  alliance  and  close 
relationship  with  many  individuals  of  the  Winter 
Island  party ;  of  whom,  therefore,  they  were  de- 
lighted to  receive  tidings.  The  crews  spent  the 
winter  with  them  on  quite  a  friendly  footing,  and 
rendered  important  services  to  them  during  a  period 
of  severe  sickness.  This  intercourse,  however,  was 
not  on  the  whole  nearly  so  satisfactory  as  in  the 
former  place  and  season.  It  began  to  be  observed, 
that  their  attachment  to  the  Kabloonas  was  greatly 
prompted  by  interest  and  by  the  hope  of  extracting 
presents  ;  that  they  begged  for  food  and  gifts  almost 
without  intermission,  and  yet  showed  no  gratitude 
on  receiving  them ;  taking  much  less  into  considera- 


th  and  comfort  of 
its  did  sink,  there 
ilessofsfayetyand 
former  winterings, 
iven  of  the  school. 
Island,  they  were 
the  sun's  cheering 
iction  still  showed, 
the  sixteenth  part 
Arcturus  and  Ca- 
,  were  visible  for 
Iday.    On  the  5th 

so  brightly  suf- 
re  long  to  see  the 
night  of  thick  fog 
1  the  19th,  the  sky 
,  attended  by  two 

out  to  enjoy  the 
iring  spectacle, 
col  ny  of  Esqui- 
with  surprise  and 
iarning  they  were 
I'ith  its  tenants  of 
once  as  familiar 
onged  to  the  same 
lliance  and  close 
lis  of  the  Winter 
B,  they  were  de- 
crews  spent  the 
ndly  footing,  and 
m  during  a  period 
rse,  however,  was 
actory  as  in  the 
n  to  be  observed, 
'onaa  was  greatly 
ope  of  extracting 
1  and  gifts  almost 
wed  no  gratitude 
!ss  into  considera- 


RECENT  NORTH-WEST   V0TA0E8. 


249 


tion  what  they  themselves  got,  than  what  others  got 
more  than  they.    The  indifference  shown  towards 
such  of  their  own  tribe  as  were  in  a  debilitated  and 
suffering  state  was  viewed  also  with  much  dissatis- 
faction.   Kagha,  a  widow,  cursed  certainly  with  a 
most  frightful  temper,  was  found  almost  perishing 
through  neglect.    Captain  Lyon  took  her  into  his 
own  cabin,  where,  however,  her  filth  and  scolding 
made  her  a  perfect  nuisance;  so  that,  after  being 
recruited  and  clothed  in  two  folds  of  deer-skin,  she 
was  remanded  to  the  huts.    Ten  days  after  she  was 
found  at  the  point  of  death,  solely,  it  appeared, 
through  want  of  food ;  and  though  removed  imme- 
diately to  the  ship's  hospital,  she  died  next  day. 
Our  people  were  also  much  displeased  at  the  stoical 
firmness  with  which  the  relations  received  notice 
of  two  of  their  deceased  kindred,  whom  the  dogs 
had  dug  up  ttom  under  the  snow,  that  formed  their 
only  covering,  and  had  devoured.    It  was  indeed 
very  difficult  to  find  an  earthy  grave  beneath  the 
glebe, now  frozen  as  hard  as  rock;  but  an  Esqui- 
maux acquaintance  having  lost  his  wife,  the  sailors 
piled  over  her  such  a  heap  of  stones  as  might  defy 
the  attempts  of  all  the  animals,  wild  and  tame, 
>vhich  prowl  throughout  this  dreary  region.    The 
man  gave  thanks,  but  not  cordially ;  he  even  ex- 
pressed a  dread  lest  the  pressure  of  this  huge  pile 
would  be  painfully  felt  by  his  deceased  spouse;  and 
soon  after,  when  an  infant  died,  he  declared  her 
wholly  incapable  of  bearing  such  a  burden,  and 
would  allow  nothing  but  snow  to  be  laid  over  her. 
The  Esquimaux,  during  this  expedition,  became 
the  subjects  of  a  more  minute  observation  than  had 
ever  before  been  made  upon  them  by  Europeans. 
TTiey  constitute  a  most  widely  diffused  race,  occu- 
pying all  the  shores  of  the  Northern  Ocean,  and 
embracing  nearly  the  entire  circuit  of  the  globe. 
Richardson  and  Franklin  found  them  along  the  whole 
coast  of  the  American  Polar  sea;  Kotzebue  in  the 
X2 


U6 


RECENT   NORTH-WEST   VOYAGES. 


»  channel  near  Behring's  Straits.  The  Samoiedes 
and  Kamtehadales,  in  northern  Asia,  seem  to  belong 
to  the  same  fam  ily.  A  similarity  of  visage  and  figure, 
boats,  huts,  and  instruments, — even  a  resemblance 
in  habits,  character,  and  mode  of  life, — might  have 
been  produced  by  the  common  pressure  of  the  same 
very  peculiar  outward  circumstances.  The  affinity 
of  speech,  however,  which  is  snch  as  proves  the  dia- 
lects of  all  the  Esquimaux  to  be  mere  varieties  of 
one  common  language,  affords  a  clear  proof,  that  an 
original  race  from  some  one  quarter  has  spread  over 
the  whole  range  of  those  immense  and  desolate 
shores.  This  migration  must  have  been  facilitated 
by  the  vast  continuity  of  coast  which  stretches  along 
the  Arctic  Ocean,  and  which  is  not  equalled  in  any 
other  quarter.  Hence,  probably,  the  Esquimaux,  at 
distant  ages,  connected  the  old  and  the  new  conti- 
nents, which  at  all  other  points  were  then  wholly 
unknown  to  each  other. 

The  external  form  of  that  people  seems  influenced, 
and,  as  it  were,  characterized  by  the  severity  of  the 
climate.  Their  stature  is  decidedly  lower  than  that 
of  the  European ;  five  feet  nine  inches  being  con- 
sidered even  in  a  man  as  almost  gigantic,  lliough 
the  trimk  of  the  body  is  somewhat  thick,  all  the  ex- 
tremities are  small,  especially  the  hands  and  feet,  and 
the  fingers  short.  The  face  is  broad  and  flat,  the 
nose  small,  and  at  the  same  time  sunk  so  deep,  that 
in  some  instances  a  ruler  could  be  applied  from  cheek 
to  cheek  without  touching  it.  It  is  somewhere  ob- 
served, that  their  visage  presents  that  peculiar  fonn 
which  the  human  face  naturally  assumes  under  ex- 
posure to  intense  cold,  when  all  the  projecting  fea- 
tures are  drawn  in  and  the  cheeks  consequently 
pushed  out.  In  the  same  way  exposure  to  the 
weather  may  perhaps  produce  the  high  cheek-bones 
of  mountaineers.  Under  these  modifications,  how- 
ever,  both  their  body  and  limbs  are  very  tolerably 
shaped.    Even  the  female  countenance,  though  with- 


<^m 


rOYAGES. 

The  Samoiedes 
3ia,  seem  to  belong 
)f  visage  and  figure, 
ren  a  resemblance 
'  life, — might  have 
essure  of  the  same 
ices.  The  affinity 
1  as  proves  the  dia- 
mere  varieties  of 
;lear  proof,  that  an 
ter  has  spread  over 
;nse  and  desolate 
ve  been  facilitated 
ich  stretches  along 
>t  equalled  in  any 
the  Esquimaux,  at 
fid  the  new  conti- 
were  then  wholly 

!  seems  influenced, 
he  severity  of  the 
ly  lower  than  that 
inches  being  con- 
figantic.  I'hough 
t  thick,  all  the  ex- 
innds  and  feet,  and 
road  and  flat,  the 
mnk  so  deep,  that 
ipplied  from  cheek 
is  somewhere  ob- 
;hat  peculiar  fonn 
ssumes  under  ex- 
he  projecting  fea- 
jks  consequently 
exposure  to  the 
high  cheek-bones 
odifications,  how- 
ire  very  tolerably 
nee,  though  witli- 


RECKNT   NORTH-WEST   V0TA0E8. 


247 


[p.  246.] 


out  pretensions  to  rej^ular  beauty,  is  often  agreeable, 
with  a  frank  and  ^ood-humoured  expression ;  so  that, 
were  it  cleared  of  the  thick  cnist  of  grease  and  dirt, 
BO  as  to  exhibit  the  real  complexion,  which  is  only 
that  of  a  deep  brunette,  it  might,  even  in  Europe,  be 
reckoned  handsome.  The  skin  is  unctuous  and  un« 
pleasantly  cold  to  the  touch ;  the  flesh  soft  and  flabby, 
owing  probably  to  the  fat  animal  substances  which 
form  the  principal  part  of  their  food. 

Dress,  through  the  necessity  imposed  by  the  cli- 
mate, is  much  more  ample,  and  prepared  with  greater 
care,  than  is  usual  among  other  savage  tribes.  That 
of  the  men  chiefly  consists  in  a  double  coat  of  deer- 
skin ;  the  inner  part  of  whi(!h,  having  the  hair  placed 
next  the  body,  serves  as  a  shirt,  while  from  the  outer 
a  spacious  hood  is  raised  to  cover  the  head.  The 
breeches,  of  the  same  material, and  also  double,  reach 
down,  overlapping  the  boots,  which  extend  to  the 
knee,  and  are  composed  either  of  deer-skin,  or,  if 
intended  for  hunting  and  travelling,  of  the  hide  of 
the  seal  and  walrus.  The  dress  of  the  females  con- 
sists of  the  same  particulars,  with  only  some  varia- 
tions in  form.  They  considered  themselves  particu- 
larly fortunate  in  wearing  breeches,  and  could  not 
hear  without  pity  of  their  sisters  in  Europe,  whom 
the  caprice  of  mshion  had  deprived  of  so  comfortable 
a  habiliment.  Their  chief  distinction  lay  in  their 
boots,  framed  of  such  capacious  dimensions  as  to 
make  each  leg  appear  as  thick  as  the  body,  and  allow 
them  to  move  only  in  a  waddling  gait,  similar  to 
that  of  Muscovy  ducks.  These  boots  form,  however, 
most  spacious  receptacles  for  whatever  goods,  law- 
ful or  unlawful,  may  come  into  the  possession  of  the 
fair  wearer.  Captain  Parry  suspects  that  this  huge 
buskin  was  originally  constructed  as  a  receptacle 
for  their  children,— a  practice  still  prevalent  among 
some  tribes. — and  thus  retains  its  old  form,  though 
the  hood  is  row  generally  substituted  for  this  do- 
mestic purj^cise. 


348 


BECENT  NORTH-WKST  VOVAOEt. 


The  Esquimaux  do  not  huddle  on  these  prarments 
in  a  rude  and  careless  manner,  as  a  mere  protection 
dgainst  the  fierce  influence  of  the  climate :  they  dis. 
pm«  like  other  savages,  a  passion  for  embellishment 
and  finery.  Their  clothes  are  neatly  sewed  with 
threads  made  from  the  sinews  of  animals ;  the  effect 
of  their  rich  furs  is  heightened  by  being  arranged  in 
stripes  of  variouo  colours,  and  by  fringes  along  the 
border,  adjusted  often  with  considerable  taste.  They 
sought  anxiously  for  beads,  in  lieu  of  which  they 
had  ornamented  themselves  with  girdles  composed 
of  the  teeth  of  the  fox,  wolf,  or  musk-ox,  and  one 
female  had  fringed  her  jacket  with  a  long  row  of 
foxes'  noses.  It  was  suspected  that  these  ornaments 
might  be  regarded  in  some  degree  under  the  charac- 
ter of  amulets  or  charms,  Nor  do  the  Esquimaux 
omit  that  universr.!  ornament  of  savages,  the  painting 
of  the  human  skin.  This  is  executed  not  by  the 
Indian  process  of  puncturing,  but  by  a  species  of 
sewing.  The  women  draw  under  tiie  emdermis  a 
needle,  with  a  thread  dipped  in  lamp-black  and  oil, 
wliich  being  taken  out,  and  pressure  applied  to  the 
part,  leaves  behind  it  a  permanent  olive  tint.  This 
operation,  when  performed  with  complete  success, 
does  not  draw  blood ;  but  the  executioi)  is  seldom 
carried  to  that  degree  of  perfection.  The  face,  arms, 
thighs,  and  sometimes  the  breasts  of  the  females, 
are  profusely  covered  with  this  artificial  tint. 

The  labour  necessary  for  subsistence  under  this 
rigorous  climate  is  more  arduous,  and  occupies  a 
greater  share  of  time,  than  among  any  other  race, 
either  civilized  or  savage.  The  ground,  frozen  for 
more  than  nine  months  of  the  year,  yields  neither 
root  nor  herb  which  can  form  a  standard  article  of 
food.  No  tame  animals  are  reared  for  this  purpose, 
their  dogs  being  so  applied  only  in  the  last  extremity 
Hunting  is  their  only  resource ;  and  hence  their  day* 
are  spent  in  the  chase  of  the  wild  animals  which  m 
Iiabit  the  sea  and  the  shore.    They  lead  ^hus  a  lif(9 


OVAQES. 

n  theso  grarroenU 
II  mere  protection 
:limate :  they  dis* 
ror  embellishment 
eatly  sewed  with 
iiimals ;  the  effect 
being  arranged  in 
fringes  along  the 
rable  taste.  They 
Bu  of  which  they 
girdles  composed 
musk-ox,  and  one 
th  a  long  row  of 
t  these  ornaments 
under  the  charac- 

0  the  Esquimaux 
rages,  the  painting 
cuted  not  by  the 
t  by  a  species  of 
ir  the  euldermis  a 
mp-hlack  and  oil, 
re  applied  to  the 

olive  tint.  This 
;omplete  success, 
cutioi)  is  seldom 
The  face,  arms, 
ts  of  the  females, 
ificial  tint. 
Btence  under  this 
I,  and  occupies  a 
f  any  other  race, 
pround,  frozen  for 
sar,  yields  neither 
tanciard  article  of 

1  for  this  purpose, 
he  last  extremity 
1  hence  their  day» 
animals  which  m 
y  lead  thus  a  ]it^ 


RECENT   NOUTH-WEST   VOYAnES. 


240 


of  contrivance  and  atlventure,  in  the  course  of  which 
energy  and  hardihood  of  character  are  formed,  and 
many  faculties  amply  developed.  In  tlie  absence  oi 
extreme  scarcity  of  wood  and  iron,  tl.  /  make  use 
of  the  bones  of  animals,  which  they  have  of  all 
shapes  and  sizes,  yet  this  is  often  found  too  inflexible 
a  material;  while  cord  or  line  is  formed  by  cutting 
their  toughest  and  most  elastic  skins  into  long  stripes. 
During  the  short  summer,  they  pursue  with  bow  and 
arrow  the  deer,  whose  flesh  as  meat,  and  whose  skin 
as  clothing,  are  esteemed  above  all  otliers.  The  eider 
and  other  ducks  also  furnish  thein  with  food ;  while 
the  hide,  with  the  feathers  inwards,  forms  a  light  and 
comfortable  clothing.  The  early  winter,  however, 
compels  these  animals,  in  large  bands,  to  move  into 
more  genial  climes ;  and  hence,  for  nine  months  an- 
nually, their  food  must  be  found  in  the  waters.  These, 
indeed,  are  filled  with  the  large  cetaceous  fishes,  the 
seal,  the  walrus,  and  even  the  whale ;  but  the  hunters 
and  the  game  are  separated  by  a  thick  covering  of 
ice.  Tliese  animals,  however,  though  they  make 
their  chief  dwelling  beneath  the  waves,  as  fonnerly 
ciboerved,  experience  the  necessity  of  ascending  from 


tflO 


RKCEMT  NORTtl-WKST  VOTAOII. 


time  to  time  for  the  purpoBrs  of  respiration.  At  roch 
moments  the  Esquimaux  watch  with  the  most  in- 
defatifrable  patience,  often  ercctinjj  a  little  snow-shed 
to  protect  them  from  the  cold ;  and  the  instant  the 
animal  appears,  strike  into  him  a  dart  or  harpoon, 
of  which  tiiey  have  several  forms  and  sizes,  and 
sometimes  throw  by  means  of  a  long  line,  a  neces- 
sary part  of  their  apparatus.  Their  grandest  achieve, 
ment,  however,  consists  in  the  attack  of  the  whale ; 
on  which  occasion  a  large  body  of  them  unite,  armed 
with  a  variety  of  weapons.  When  struck  he  instantly 
plunges  into  the  water ;  but,  being  obliged  to  come 
up  at  short  intervals,  is  always  attacked  afresh,  till, 
overcome  by  fatigue  and  loss  of  blood,  this  mighty 
monarch  of  the  deep  remains  an  unresisting  prey. 
An  Esquimaux  does  not  hesitate,  ev(>n  singly,  to  at- 
tack the  Polar  bear,  the  fiercest  and  most  terrible  of 
all  the  Arctic  races.  In  this  encounter,  however, 
he  must  be  aided  by  a  band  of  his  trusty  dogs,  which 
rush  fearlessly  on,  keep  the  animal  at  bay,  and  assail 
him  on  all  sides;  while  the  master  advances  with 
his  spear,  and  avoiding,  with  almost  preternatural 
agility,  the  furious  springs  of  the  enraged  monster, 
pierces  him  with  repeated  strokes.  Nooses,  springes, 
and  traps  are  also  used  with  skjl],  chiefly  agamst 
birds  and  foxes. 

The  Esquimaux  showlittlepnidence  in  the  manage- 
ment of  their  supplies.  Tne  instant  that  tidings 
transpire  of  the  capture  of  a  walrus,  shouts  of  ex- 
ultation are  laised  through  the  village ;  as  its  inhabit* 
ants  share  the  prize  in  common.  On  its  arrival, 
slices  are  instantly  cut  out,  every  lamp  is  supplied 
with  oil,  the  houses  are  in  a  blaze ;  all  the  pots  ara 
filled  with  flesh,  and  the  women,  while  cooking,  pick 
out  and  devour  the  most  dainty  morsels.  Tlie  feast 
prepared,  one  man  takes  tip  a  liirge  piece,  applies  it 
to  his  mouth,  and  severs  with  his  teeth  as  much  as 
that  cavity  can  possibly  admit;  then  hands  it  .to  his 
neighbour,  and  he  to  the  next,  till  all  is  consumed. 


•isiiihi 


m 


rOTAOII. 

spirafion.  At  mich 
with  the  most  in- 
g  a  little  snow-Nhed 
111(1  the  instant  the 
a  dart  or  harpoon, 
n)s  and  sizes,  and 
long  line,  a  neces- 
ir  fi^randest  achieve* 
tarrk  of  the  whale ; 
f  them  unite,  armed 
I  struck  he  instantly 
f(  obli^red  to  come 
ttackcd  afresh,  till, 
blood,  this  mighty 
I  unresisting  prey, 
even  singly,  to  at- 
nd  most  terrible  of 
ticoimter,  however, 
trusty  dogs,  which 
A  at  bay,  and  assail 
Iter  advances  with 
most  preternatural 
I  enragod  monster, 
Nooses,  springes, 
U4f  chiefly  agamst 

ence  in  the  manage- 
istant  that  tidings 
Irus,  shouts  of  ex* 
age;  as  its  inhabit* 
1.  On  its  arrival, 
y  lamp  is  supplied 
:e ;  all  the  pots  ara 
vhile  cooking,  pick 
lorsels.  Tlie  feast 
ge  piece,  applies  it 
s  teeth  as  much  as 
hen  hands  it  .to  his 
ill  all  is  consumed. 


RECENT   KfORTM-WEST   VOTAOIS. 


2S1 


A  new  piece  is  then  supplied,  and  thus  the  process 
continues,  almost  without  intermission,  till  the  ani* 
mal  is  entirely  consumed.    To  the  capacity  of  Es- 

Suimaux  stomachs  there  seems  scarceH'  any  limit, 
ome  experiments  on  the  subject,  made  m  the  Fury, 
and  carefully  noted,  produced  the  most  surprising  re- 
sults. A  '  outh  named  Toolooak  stands  recorded  as 
having,  ii.  wenty-onc  hours,  received  into  his  sto- 
mach ten  pounds  four  ounces  of  solid  food*  a  gallon 
and  a  pint  of  water,  with-  more  than  a  pint  of  soup. 
Captain  Lyon  pitched  against  him  Kangara,  who  in 
nineteen  hours  finished  nine  pounds  fifteen  ounces  of 
solid,  and  a  gallon  and  a  half  of  fluid.  At  this  rate, 
the  most  ample  store  very  speedily  <lisappears ;  one 
day  they  are  labouring  under  fever,  hemorrhage,  and 
iill  the  maladies  incident  to  repletion ;  a  few  days 
after  they  are  without  a  morsel  to  eat. 

Considered  as  to  their  intellectual  condition,  the 
Esquimaux  have  not  the  least  tincture  of  what  goes 
by  the  name  of  learning;  can  form  no  abstract 
idos;  nor  count  above  ten,  the  number  of  their 
fingers.  Yet,  amid  a  life  somewhat  varied  and 
eventful,  many  faculties,  without  any  artificial  cul- 
ture, are  spontaneously  developed.  We  have  seen 
the  skill  displayed  in  the  construction  of  their  houses, 
as  well  as  in  pursuing  and  killing  the  various  te- 
nants of  the  earth  and  of  the  waters,  on  which  their 
subsistence  depends.  Their  migratory  habits  give 
them  a  considerable  extent  of  lotial  and  geographi- 
cal knowledge,  which  they  are  even  in  a  certain  de- 
gree able  to  systematize  and  delineate.  They  are 
also  shrewd  and  intelligent  In  all  the  aflTairs  of  com- 
mon life,  and  possess  a  considerable  tal'  at  for  humour 
and  mimicry. 

In  their  moral  qualities,  the.E8quimaux,clr  at  least 
this  particular  tribe,  present  much  that  is  worthy  of 
commendation.  '  At  the  first  opening  of  the  inter- 
course, the  most  undeviating  honesty  marked  all 
their  conduct,  though  this  quality,  in  the  course  of 


f 


^ 


v» 


KICIKT   NORTII-WKIT  TOTAOU. 


twowiiUcrN'coininunirati()n,waHronNiil(!rablyuiuler< 
ininetl.    They  were  uxpotttd,  indued,  to  most  Mivere 
teniptatiun,  by  Ht-eiiiij  coiiNtimtly  aeuttored  about  the 
Bhipi  litUo  phuikt,  piorcH  of  iron,  sind  eniiJty  tin  potn, 
winch  wuB  to  them  iw  if  the  decka  had  been  atrewed 
with  gold  and  jcwcla.    It  uUu  came  to  their  know- 
ledge, that,  in  mime  of  their  early  exehungCH,  rich 
Bkiim  had  been  bartered  for  beads,  and  other  trirten 
of  no  real  value, — a  system  againat  which  they  ex- 
claimed as  abNolule  robln-ry.     From  flnit  to  laat  the 
virtue  now  mentioned  was  nractised  among  them- 
Belves  in  a  manner  worthy  ol  the  golden  age.    Their 
dress(!8,  sledges,  and  all  theii  implement!*  of  hunting 
and  fiHhing.  were  left  exfHised  inside  or  ontwide  of 
the  huts,  without  any  instance  being  known  of  their 
having  been  earrieiloff.    FroiKtrty,  without  the  aid 
if  laws  and  tribunals,  was  in  the  most  perfect  security. 
The  common  right  to  the  i)roiIu<-t8  of  the  chase 
aoarks  also  a  singular  union,  without  seeming  to  re- 
lax their  diligence  in  search  of  food,  though  it  may 
perhaps  contriliute  to  their  very  thoughtless  consump- 
tion of  it.    The  navigators  a<lmit  that  they  were  re- 
ceived with  the  most  cordial  hospitality  into  the  lit- 
tle huts,  where  the  best  meat  was  set  before  them, 
and  ihe  women  vied  with  each  other  in  the  atten- 
tions of  cooking,  drying,  and  mending  their  clothes. 
"  The  women  working  and  singing,  their  husbands 
quietlv  mending  their  lines,  the  children  playing  Ix;- 
fore  the  door,  and  the  pot  boilin.T  over  the  blaze  of  a 
cheerful  lamp,"  gave  a  pleasing  picture  of  savage  life. 
Yet  a  continued  intercourse  showed  that  the  iEsuvii- 
maux  inherited  their  full  share  of  human  frailty. 
Begging   we  shall  pass  over,  though  in  many  in- 
atances  persevering  and  incessant,  because  it  seems 
to  have  been  called  fprth  almost  entirely  by  their 
connexion  with  our  countrymen,  and  by  too  lavish 
presents  at  the  first;  while  their  little  bursts  of  envy 
appear  to  have  flowed  from  the  same  source.     But 
the  fair  Esquimaux  are  charged  with  a  atronif  pro- 


onsidorably  iiinler* 
ed,  tu  most  ativere 
tcattored  about  the 
iuil  pni|)ty  till  potfl, 
\  httd  b««ii  atreweil 
ime  to  their  know- 
iy  t^xrhimi^cN,  rich 
In,  mul  othfr  Iritlcs 
mt  which  they  cx< 
>m  Ami  to  lattt  the 
86(1  ainonff  them- 
roUleii  dgp..    Their 
iemeiitjs  of  huiiliii? 
»i(lo  or  otitHide  of 
iii;  known  of  their 
y,  without  the  aid 
>Ht  perfect  security. 
K-tM  of  the  chiuc 
ant  BcemiiiH;  tu  re- 
tod,  though  it  may 
U){htlr88  consuiiip- 
that  lliey  were  re- 
>ilalily  into  the  lit- 
is set  before  them, 
ther  in  the  atten- 
ding  their  clothes. 
ig,  their  husbands 
lildren  playing  Ix;- 
)ver  the  blaze  of  a 
lure  of  savage  life. 
3d  that  the  Gstnii- 
af  human  frailty, 
mgh  in  many  in- 
,  because  it  seems 
entirely  by  their 
and  by  too  lavish 
ttte  bursts  of  euvy 
ame  source.    But 
vith  a  strong  pro- 


W!«;«!IT  NORTtt-WKST   rOTAOKB. 


983 


pensity  to  slander  and  detraction,  which  were  ns 
busy  among  tlicm,  as  they  sat  in  circles  round  the 
door  mending  their  lines,  as  in  the  nioht  fashionable 
drawing-rooniH.     Tlieir  own  conduct,  meantinn!,  is 
said  to  have  afforded  the  most  ample  s<'ope  for  cen- 
suri'.tspccially  in  ri;gard  toconnul)ial  fidflity;  and  yet 
when  It  is  aihniited  that  these  faults  were  caK'fully 
concealed,  suuJ  much  outward  decorum  observed,  and 
that  the  propcnHJiy  tu  calumny  often  led  the  natives 
lieyond  the  strict  limits  of  tnith,  wo  doubt  whether 
tot)  impli(;it  reliance  may  not  have  been  placed  on  tho 
scandalous  chronicle  of  the  frozen  regions.     Hie 
naliyeH  certainly  do  appear  to  display  a  fieculiar  apa- 
thy  m  regard  to  the  sufferings  and  even  the  death  of 
nuighl)oiirs  and  relations.    Widows,  and  the  ajred 
ami  infirm,  if  they  hiivo  not  children  of  their  own 
expeiience  the  grcat(!9t  indifference.    In  times  of 
plenty,  indeed,  they  share  in  the  general  abundance 
of  food ;  but  during  scarcity  a  very  small  qnaii- 
tity  reaches  them,  and,  receiving   no  attendance 
in  Uieir  sickness,  they  pften  perish  through  pure 
want  and  neglect.    The  children  arc  treated  with 
•xtreme  tenderness ;  though  the  practice  of  adop- 
tion,  which  prevails  most  extensively,  :ind  which 
sstabhshes  in  full  force  between  the  parties  the  ties 
t>r  father  and  child,  is  practised  with  regard  to  bovs 
only,  and  seemingly  with  the  view  that  they  mav 
contnbute  to  support  the  old  age  of  their  factitious 
parents. 

The  religious  ideas  of  the  Esquimaux,  though  ther 
cannot  be  dignified  with  any  better  name  than  su- 
perstition,  are  not  much  more  absurd  than  the  popular 
creed  of  the  ancient  Greeks  and  Romans.  Their 
principal  deity  is  Aywillaiyoo,  a  female,  immensely 

inJ;^K    v"'^  *^^i- ^I  7^'  ."^^'"Sf  *  P'&ta''»  reach, 
ng  to  her  knee,  so  thick  that  it  can  scarcely  be  grasped 

by  both  hands.    Captain  Lyon  witm.ssed  a  inightv 

incantation,  in  which  Toolemak,  the  chief  raarician. 

•ununoned  Aywillaiyoo  to  the  upper  world  to  utter 


r 


254 


RECENT  NORTH-WEST  V0YA0E9. 


her  oracles.  The  party  were  assembled  in  a  hut, 
where  light  after  light  was  put  out,  till  they  were  left 
in  total  darkness.  Toolemak,  the^i,  after  loud  ir'  o- 
cations,  professed  to  doscend  to  the  world  below  to 
bring  up  the  goddess.  Soon  there  arose  a  low  chant 
of  peculiar  sound,  imagined  to  be  the  voice  of  Ay  wil- 
laiyoo.  During  half  an  hour,  in  reply  to  the  loud 
screams  and  questions  of  her  votaries,  she  uttered 
dubious  and  mystical  responses;  after  which  the 
sound  died  away,  and  she  was  supposed  to  descend 
beneath  tlie  earth,  when  Toolemak,  with  a  shout, an- 
nounced his  own  return  to  the  upper  world.  The 
magician  however,  being  soon  after  on  board  a  Bri- 
tish ship,  was  treated  with  nine  glasses  of  hot  water 
(brandy),  mider  the  influence  of  which  he  began  to 
act  over  again  his  enchantments,  when  it  appeared, 
that  by  varying  modes  of  applying  the  hand  or  jacket 
to  the  mouth,  he  produced  those  changeful  and  mys- 
terious sounds  which  hci  passed  for  the  words  of 
Aywillaiyoo.  This  divinity  has  for  her  father 
a  giant  with  one  ann.  The  Esquimaux  pan- 
theon comprises,  moreover,  Pamiooli,  a  spirit  fre- 
quently invoked,  and  a  large  beiir,  whose  dwelling 
is  in  the  middle"  of  the  ice,  and  who  frequently 
holds  converse  with  mankind.  The  natives  believe 
also  in  a  future  world,  the  employments  and  plea- 
siues  of  which,  according  to  the  usual  creed  of 
savage  races,  ar6  all  sensual.  The  soul  descends 
beneath  the  earth  through  succfcssive  abodes,  the 
first  of  which  has  somewhat  of  the  nature  of  pur 
gatory;  but  the  good  spirits  passing  through  it 
find  th«  other  mansions  successively  improve,  till 
they  reach  that  of  perfect  bliss,  far  beneaih,  where 
the  sun  never  sets,  and  where,  by  the  ride  of  large 
lakes  that  never  freeze,  the  deer  roam  in  vast 
herds,  and  the  seal  and  walrus  always  abound  in  the 
waters. 

We  now  return  to  the  progress  of  thf  expedition. 
The  spring  was  singularly  uiifavourab[,e.    Captam 


OYAOES. 

sembled  in  a  hitt, 
,  till  they  were  left 
^l,  after  loud  ir'o- 
le  world  below  to 
arose  a  low  chant 
tie  voice  of  Ay  wil- 
reply  to  the  loud 
tariea,  she  uttered 
after  which  the 
pposed  to  descend 
;,  with  a  shout, an- 
pper  world.  The 
er  on  board  a  Bri- 
asses  of  hot  water 
(fliich  he  began  to 
when  it  appeared, 
the  hand  or  jacket 
langeful  and  mys- 
for  the  words  of 
I  for  her  father 
Esquimaux  pan- 
looli,  a  spirit  fre- 
•,  whose  dwelling 
i  who  frequently 
le  natives  believe 
^ments  and  plea- 
i  usual  creed  of 
lie  soul  descends 
ssive  abodes,  the 
;he  nature  of  pur 
issing  through  it 
vely  improve,  till 
ar  beneaih,  where 
'  the  fide  of  large 
er  roam  in  vast 
ays  aboi'nd  in  the 

jt  the  expedition. 
L)urab[.c.    Captam 


RSCKNT    NOUTII-WEST   VOYAGES. 


255 


Lyon  attemptfid  to  penetrate  across  Melville  Penin- 
sula, but  found  the  route  so  rugged  and  so  barred  by 
steep  chains  of  mountains,  that  he  was  obliged  to  re- 
turn in  nineteen  days  without  any  discovery,  except 
of  two  rapid  rivers  falling  into  the  sea  near  Igloolik. 
Lieutenant  Hojjpner  accompanied  a  party  of  Esqui- 
maux to  Cockbum  Island,  but  could  not  penetrate  to 
any  distance  inland.  It  was  the  7th  of  August  before 
they  were  able,  by  severe  sawing,  to  reach  the  open 
sea ;  by  which  time  Captain  Parry  had  renounced  the 
hope  of  effecting  any  thing  important  during  the  short 
re mnant  of  this  season.  He  formed,  however,  a  very 
bold  plan,  which  was  to  bring  all  the  stores  of  the 
other  vessel  on  board  the  Fury,  and  with  it  alone  to 
brave  a  third  winter  in  the  Polar  regions,  hoping  that 
the  succeeding  summer  might  be  more  propitious. 
But  as  he  was  preparing  to  carry  this  too  daring  pro- 
ject into  effect,  a  report  was  made  that  symptoms  of 
scurvy  had  broken  out  on  several  of  the  crew,  whose 

ehysical  strength  appeared  to  be  generally  impaired 
y  the  two  hard  winters  through  which  they  had 
passed.  This  left  no  choice;  and,  in  compliance 
with  the  general  opinion  of  his  officers,  Captain  Parry 
began  his  voyage  homeward.  The  ships  were  drifted 
!ibout  in  a  stormy  sea  covered  with  ice  for  twenty- 
four  days;  but,  being  at  last  favoured  with  a  west- 
eriy  breeze,  they  crossed  the  Atlantic,  and  on  the 
10th  of  October,  1823,  arrived  in  Brassa  Sound, 
Shetland.  After  two  successive  years  thus  passed  in 
the  depths  of  the  frozen  world,  whence  not  the 
faintest  rumour  of  the  expedition  had  reached  Britain, 
its  members  were  viewed  almost  au  men  risen  from 
the  dead.  The  bells  of  Lerwick  were  rung,  and 
other  extraordinary  demonstrations  of  joy  made 
on  their  arrival.  In  a  few  days  they  entered  tlie 
Thames. 

Two  attempts  had  thus  been  made,  each  to  a  cer- 
tain  point  successful,  but  both  arrested  much  short 
of  the  completion  of  the  grand  enterprise.    The 


256 


RECENT   JJORTH-WEST  VOYAGES. 


government  at  home,  however,  were  not  willing  to 
stop  short  in  their  spirited  career.  ITie  western  ex- 
tremity of  Melville  Island,  and  the  strait  of  the  Fury 
and  Hecla,  appeared  to  be  both  so  blocked  up  as 
to  afford  little  hope ;  but  Prince  Regent's  Inlet,  when 
explored  during  Captain  Parry's  voyage,  had  pre- 
sented, indeed,  an  icy  barrier,  but  such  as  had  so  often 
given  way  suddenly  and  almost  instantaneously,  that 
its  existence  early  in  the  season  could  not  be  con- 
sidered very  alarming.  A  passage  through  this 
channel  would  bring  the  ships  to  the  great  sea 
bounding  the  northern  coast  of  America,  that  had 
been  seen  from  the  strait  of  the  Fury  and  Hecla,  and 
along  which  Captain  Franklin  had  partly  sailed,  and 
by  which  there  was  the  fairest  hope  of  reaching,  by 
the  most  direct  route,  the  waters  of  the  great  Pacific. 
To  follow  up  these  views.  Captain  Parry  was  again 
fitted  out  in  the  Hecla ;  while,  in  the  accidental  ab- 
sence of  Captain  Lyon,  the  Fury  was  intrusted  to 
Lieutenant,  now  Captain  Hoppner,  who  had  taken 
an  active  part  in  the  operations  of  the  last  voyage. 

The  expedition  set  sail  from  Northfleet  en  the  19th 
May,  1824,  and  was  in  Davis's  Strait  by  the  middle 
of  June.  As  the  season,  however,  chanced  to  be  pe- 
culiarly rigorous,  it  was  not  till  the  iOth  of  Septem- 
ber, that,  after  repeated  repulses  and  severe  straining, 
they  caught  a  view  of  the  bold  and  magnificent 
shores  of  Lancaster  Sound,  in  which  a  few  solitary 
icebergs  were  floating.  After  this  they  thought 
themselves  fortunate,  when,  by  pushing  their  way 
through  many  miles  of  newly-fotmed  ice,  they 
reached  Port  Bowen  in  time  to  make  it  their  winter- 
quarters. 

The  provision  made  during  this  winter  for  the 
physical  well-being  of  the  expedition  was  still  more 
complete  than  in  the  former  voyages.  The  heat  of 
the  cabins  was  kept  up  to  between  .50  and  60  degrees, 
and  the  seamen  wore  next  the  skin  a  clothing  of  fur, 
a  substance  which  nature  has  endowed  with  a  warmth 


<# 


)TAOES. 

re  not  willing  to 
ITie  western  ex- 
strait  of  the  Fury 
io  blocked  up  as 
fent's  Inlet,  when 
loyage,  had  pre- 
!h  as  had  so  often 
antaneoiisiy,  that 
3uld  not  be  con- 
\re   through  this 

0  the  great  sea 
merica,  that  had 
y  and  Hecla,  and 
partly  sailed,  and 
!  of  reaching,  by 
the  great  Pacific. 
Parry  was  again 
le  accidental  ab- 
was  intrusted  to 
,  who  had  taken 
the  last  voyage. 

hfleet  en  the  19th 

lit  by  the  middle 

chanced  to  be  pe- 

iOth  of  Septem- 

1  severe  straining, 
and  magnificent 

ih  a  few  solitary 
lis  they  thought 
ishing  their  way 
b!rmed  ice,  they 
ie  it  their  winter- 

i  winter  for  the 
an  was  still  more 
IS.  The  heat  of 
lO  and  t)0  degrees, 
a  clothing  of  fur, 
ed  with  a  warmth 


RBCENT   NORTH-WEST    VftYAflES. 


257 


T* 


far  suipassing  that  of  any  human  fabric.  Yet  the 
deep  monotony  produced  by  the  perfectly  uniform 
aspect  of  external  nature,  instead  of  becoming  less 
sensible  by  habit,  was  only  the  more  painfully  felt. 
As  the  Arctic  theatre  had  lost  its  attractioii,  Captain 
Hoppner  started  the  idea  of  masquerades,  which 
were,  perhaps,  still  more  out  of  keeping  with  tlie 
place  and  perpons ;  but  the  sailors  caught  at  it  with 
pleasure,  and  on  these  occasions  all  of  thorn  acted 
their  part  with  ^reat  spirit,  and  with  strict  decoium. 
The  salutary  and  steady  influence  of  the  schools  was 
again  revived,  and  the  whole  crew  gave  their  pre- 
sence, either  as  teachers,  scholars,  or  spectators. 

The  spring  was  unusually  favournble,  and,  with 
comparatively  easy  sawing  of  the  ice,  the  navigators 
warped  out  to  sea  on  the  19th  July,  1825.  As  it  ap- 
peared most  desirable  to  coast  southward  along  the 
western  'hore  of  the  inlet,  thf  y  stood  across  the  bay, 
but  were  soon  arrested  by  a  cc  ntinuous  barrier  of  ice, 
which,  howevev,  left  an  open  space  on  the  opposite 
side.  A  fruitless  attempt  was  now  made  to  penetrate 
southward,  the  channel  there  being  found  to  be 
equally  impeded  with  ice ;  hence  it  was  judged  ad- 
visable, with  the  view  of  seeking  a  less  encumbered 
passage  along  the  western  shore,  to  stretch  to  the 
northward.  An  adverse  gale,  by  which  they  were 
overtaken  near  the  month  of  -the  inlet,  now  drove 
them  eastward;  but  at  last  they  regained  their 
course,  and  soon  came  in  view  of  the  bold  face  of 
the  Leopold  Isles,  the  rocks  of  which  rise  in  hori- 
zonti'i  strata  of  limestone  to  the  heiffht  of  600  or  700 
feet,  resembling  a  huge  and  imp-Cj;  ■  ible  fortress. 

Hav.i  c  'uched  at  Cape  Seppings,  Captain  Parry 
pioceedf  i  jwn  Uie  inlet,  where  he  was  no  longer 
arrested  t)y  an  un'Token  barrier  of  ice.  The  sea, 
howevp; ,  w  i;;  still  heavily  encumbered  by  numerous 
sm;tlV  augments,  that  were  tossing  about  in  every 
(Urecii.n,  a.id  prpssed  upon  the  ships  so  hard,  that 
«'"•  me'i  1  'ished  k .  :>  contrary  wind ;  which,  coming 


358 


RECENT  NORTH-WEST  TOTAOES. 


from  the  south,  would  open  and  disperse  the  masses 
collected  and  driven  against  them  by  the  orth  wind. 
In  this  anxious  and  precarious  state,  tli  ,'  worked 
slowly  on  till  the  1st  August,  when  they  i  iched  the 
latitude  of  72°  42Mongitude  91°  50'.  H.  o  Captain 
Parry,  from  the  Hecla,  saw  the  Fury  rec(  e  a  most 
severe  shock  by  a  large  floe,  that  forced  li  r  against 
the  grounded  ice  of  the  shore ;  and  tidings  ^  on  came, 
that  she  had  been  very  sharply  nipped,  an  was  ad- 
mitting water  copiously.  The  command'  trusted 
that  this  would  prove  as  harmless  as  the  m.n.y  shocks 
which  this  vessel  had  already  e.idured;  that  the 
water  made  its  entry  by  means  of  the  twisted  position 
into  which  she  had  been  thrown ;  and  that,  when  she 
was  relieved  from  pressure,  her  leaks  wOuld  close. 
But  the  next  accounts  were,  that  she  could  not  be 
kept  clear  of  water  except  by  the  action  of  four 
pumps,  at  which  the  whole  crew,  officers  and  men, 
were  obliged  to  work.  It  became  evident  that  the 
evils  under  which  she  laboured  could  only  be  dis- 
covered and  remedied  by  the  operation  of  heaving 
down,  by  which  her  position  being  reversed,  the  parts 
now  under  water  would  be  exposed  to  view.  This  ex- 
pedient required  a  harbour,  and  there  was  none  at  hand ; 
however,  something  was  formed,  which  resembled 
one,  by  connecting  with  anchors  and  bower-cables 
the  grounded  ice  to  the  shore.  Four  days  were  spent 
in  unlading  the  Fury  of  those  ample  stores  with 
which  she  had  been  provided.  The  operation  was 
interrupted,  too,  by  a  violent  storm  of  snow ;  while 
the  external  ice,  being  driven  in,  demolished,  in  a  great 
measure,  the  slender  bulwarks  by  which  the  vessel 
was  secured.  Her  holds  were  filled  with  water,  and 
every  examination  proved  the  damage  of  hei  hull  to 
be  still  more  serious  than  was  at  first  apprehended. 
No  means  or  prospect  apr,  ared,  either  of  securing 
her  in  her  present  posit=  r  or  of  floating  her  to  any 
known  place  of  safety.  In  these  circumstances,  Cap- 
tain Pariy,  without" expressing  any  opinion  of  his 


mmm. 


TAOE». 


KECENT   POLAR   VOYAGES, 


259 


iperse  the  massdt 
ly  the    arth  wind. 
■  worked 
iched  the 
^  Captain 
e  a  most 
:  against 
on  came, 
was  ad- 
trusted 


ite,  til 
they  I 
)'.  H, 
ry  rec( 
)rced  li 
idin^s . 
ped,  an 
nmand 


the  ma i.y  shocks 
idured;  that  the 
e  twisted  position 
nd  that,  when  she 
aks  would  close, 
she  could  not  be 
e  action  of  four 
•fficers  and  men, 
evident  that  the 
mid  only  be  dis- 
ation  of  heaving 
jversed,  the  parts 
oview.  This  ex- 
was  none  at  hand; 
which  resembled 
nd  bower-cables 
•  days  were  spent 
iple  stores  with 
le  operation  was 
of  snow ;  while 
9lished,inagreat 
(vhich  the  vessel 
I  with  water,  and 
ge  of  hei  hull  to 
"St  apprehended. 
Lher  of  securing 
laling:  her  to  any 
umstances,  Cap- 
yr  opinion  of  his 


own,  called  for  a  report  from  Captain  Hoppner  and 
liis  principal  officers,  all  of  whom  agreed  "  that  an 
absolute  necessity  existed  for  abandoning  the  Fury." 
Signals,  therefore,  were  immediately  made  to  the 
officers  and  men  to  carry  their  clothes  and  effects  on 
board  the  Hecla.  The  stores,  from  want  of  room, 
were  necessarily  abandoned  along  with  the  sliip; 
and  barrels  of  beef,  beer,  biscuit,  and  other  valuable 
articles  of  provision,  were  left  exposed  on  those 
savage  and  desolate  shores,  where  they  were  unlikely 
to  afford  aid  or  benefit  to  any  human  being.  After 
such  a  (hsaster,  and  the  end  of  August  being  arrived, 
there  was  just  time  enough  left  to  bring  the  Hecla 
home  with  a  fair  prospect  of  safety, — aii  event  which 
was  in  due  time  accomplished. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Recent  Voyages  to~jiiards  the  North  Pole. 

Since  the  times  of  Hudson  and  Fothevby,  during 
the  lapse  of  more  than  a  century,  the  attempt  to 
reach  and  to  crosn  the  North  Pole  had  not  been  re- 
sumed. The  extraordinary  zeal,  however,  which,  in 
the  early  part,  of  the  reign  of  George  III.,  and  under 
the  patronage  of  that  excellent  monairsh,  was  kindled 
in  the  cause  of  naval  discovery,  failed  not  to  extend 
in  every  direction.  Mr.  Daines  Barriugton,  distin- 
guished by  the  miion  of  rank  with  scientific  acquire- 
ments, espoused  with  ardour  the  belief  that,  in  spite 
of  every  obstacle,  the  Pole  of  the  eai  th  might  be 
reached,  and  various  facts  thereby  brought  to  light, 
which  at  present  are  hid  in  mystery.  He  read  to 
the  Royal  Society  several  papers  on  this  subject, 
which  were  afterward  reduced  into  a  sepaiate  tica- 


■?":*^^ 


S60 


RECKNT   POIAB  VOTAOEB. 


rise ;  and  that  learned  body,  imbibing  with  zeal  th» 
opinions  of  their  eminent  associate,  solicited  the 
Board  of  Admiralty  to  fit  out  an  expedition  which 
might  attempt  to  realize  this  interesting  object.  The 
Earl  of  Sandwich,  then  at  the  head  of  the  naval  de- 
partment, entered  with  ardour  into  the  .'ociety's 
views,  and  drew  up  the  plan  of  an  expedition,  which 
he  submitted  to  his  majesty,  assured  of  meeting  with 
his  cordial  concurrence.  The  intentions  of  govern- 
ment having  now  transpired,  Captain  John  Phipps, 
afterward  Lord  Mulgrave,  offered  himself  for  the 
command,  and  was  accepted.  Two  bomb-vessels, 
known  under  the  nUher  odd  names  of  the  Race- 
horse and  the  Carcass,  were  selected,  and  stored  with 
an  extra  provision  of  wine,  spirits,  and  whatever  else 
could  contribute  to  the  comfort  and  health  of  the 
crews.  The  Carcass  was  commanded  by  Lieutenant 
Lutwidge,  under  whom  Horatio  Nelson,  afterward 
so  celebrated  in  the  naval  annals  of  Britain,  served 
as  cockswain.  Other  equipments  were  added,  not 
hitherto  customary  in  nautical  expeditions.  Those 
formerly  fitted  out  in  England  were  chiefly  set  on  foot 
by  mercantile  bodies,  who  were  content  to  combine 
geographical  discovery  with  certain  views  of  com- 
mercial advantage.  The  expeditions  projected  under 
the  auspices  of  George  IIL  were  the  first  which  had 
the  promotion  of  science  for  their  sole  object.  Mr. 
Israel  Lyons,  an  eminent  astronomical  observer,  was 
employed  by  the  Board  of  Longitude  to  supply  the 
ships  with  suitable  instniments ;  they  also  sent  two 
chronometers,  constructed  with  the  greatest  care  by 
Kendall  and  Arnold  for  measuring  the  distance 
from  the  first  meridian,  by  difference  of  time.  Mr. 
Gumming  construct(!d  a  seconds-pendulum,  fitted 
to  determine  the  range  of  that  instrument  in  high 
latitudes.  Sir  Joseph  Banks  and  M.  d'Alembert, 
drew  up  papers  suggesting  various  scientific  objects, 
respecting  which  observations  would  be  desirable. 
The  vessels  were  also  su^olie J  with  Dr.  Irving's  up- 


•mm 


fc^:^  SfT-jafe^-it-^- 


g  with  zeal  the 
i,  solicited  the 
pedition  which 
ig  object.  The 
•f  the  naval  de- 
I  the  .'ociety's 
pedition,  which 
jf  meeting  with 
ions  of  povern- 
n  John  Phipps, 
limself  for  the 
•  bomb-vessels, 
i  of  the  Race- 
and  stored  with 
d  whatever  else 
d  health  of  the 
:lby  Lieutenant 
Ison,  afterward 
Britain,  served 
vere  added,  not 
litions.  Those 
liefly  set  on  foot 
tent  to  combine 
views  of  corn- 
projected  under 
first  which  had 
le  object.  Mr. 
il  observer,  was 
3  to  supply  the 
Y  also  sent  two 
preatest  care  by 
g  the  distance 
i  of  time.  Mr. 
endulum,  fitted 
rument  in  high 
M.  d'Alembert, 
ientific  objects. 
Id  be  desirable. 
Dr.  Irving's  ap- 


RECENT    FOLAR   VOYAGES. 


261 


paratiis  for  distilling  fresh  water  from  the  sea, — an 
invention  which,  being  then  recent,  excited  much  in- 
terest. 

Thus  equipped,  the  expedition  began  to  move  on 
the  2lst  May,  1773 ;  but  being  detained  by  contrary 
winds,  could  not  quit  the  Nore  till  the  4th  June. 
The  last  object  seen  on  land  was  Whitby  Abbey ; 
and  Captain  Pliipps  then  steered  into  the  mid-chan- 
nel of  the  German  Ocean,  endeavouring  to  avoid 
equally  Norway  and  Shetland.  In  sixJ.y  degrees  of 
latitude  the  sun  set  about  twenty  minuti^s  past  nine ; 
the  clouds  making  a  beautiful  appearance  by  its  re- 
flection from  below  the  horizon.  In  latitude  66°,  on 
the  19th  June,  that  luminary,  even  at  midnight,  was 
still  visible.  Captain  Phipps  here  undertook  to 
make  deeper  soundings  than  were  ever  known  to 
have  been  before  attempted ;  aad  with  a  very  heavy 
lead  he  reacJ-  ed  780  fathoms.  The  temperature  at 
that  depth  was  26°  Fahrenheit,  while  in  the  air  it 
was  48^.  Trial  was  now  made  of  Dr.  Irving's  ap- 
paratus, which  was  considered  completely  success- 
ful, inasmuch  as  it  was  found  to  produce  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  perfectly  good  water  either  for  drinking 
or  cooking,  without  any  inconvenient  expense  of  fuel. 
This  favourable  opinion  has  not  been  confirmed  by 
nautical  experience;  and  the  practice,  chiefly,  we 
believe,  from  the  quantity  of  fuel  required,  has  never 
come  into  general  use. 

On  the  27th  June,  the  navigators  found  themselves 
in  the  latitude  of  the  southern  part  of  Spitzbergen, 
without  any  appearance  either  of  ice  or  land.  On 
the  29th  they  saw  the  shore,  and  stood  close  in  with 
It.  This  coast  "appeared  to  be  neither  habitable 
nor  accessible ;  for  it  was  formed  by  high  barren 
black  rocks,  without  the  least  mark  of  vegetation; 
in  many  places  bare  and  pointed ;  in  other  parts  co- 
vered with  snow,  appearing  even  above  the  clouds : 
the  valleys  between  the  high  cliffs  were  filled  with 
snow  and  ice.    The  prospect  would  have  suggested 


2^2 


RECENT    POLAn    YOYAORa. 


!he  wp.^tfcr^"^''^!"'"'"'  ^'""^  ""''^^  mildness  of 
me  weather,  the  smootli  water,  bright  sunshine  and 

ioT''l^?^''f\'-^'''"  '^  eheirfuLssZd  noCdtv 
^  the  whole  of  this  striking  and  romantic  scene." 

thif  k"!5""T?  enjoyed  fine  weather  in  sailing  along 
2vi  1  **  amllofty  coast,  and  measured  the  height  of 
f^K    ,e-?/,  ^  mountains,  one  of  which  was  found 

he  m1f«?  ^'f  ^"  '•'?  3°."'  -^""^  they  learned  from 
the  master  of  a  Greenland  vessel,  that  the  ice  lay 

Dn  nh"oi!;'f  ^'  2.*^  \*?  the  westward,  and  that  oni 

lonril  ^1"^°  ^"^^•'''  '^*P^  ^^  ^^^  lost  in  the 
course  of  the  season. 

tdV)^  f ''  ^^^^  ",f  '^"^y*  ^'''Pt^in  P>»PP8  con- 
tmued  to  steer  along  the  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  pass- 
ing  several  Greenland  ships  busily  cngaj,^d  in  the 

f.'^l-  ?\*?^t>^  •^'*'"«  to  Magdtlena  Hoek, 
near  which  he  landed,  and  began  observations  upon 
the  variation  of  tlio  compass,  which  were  soon 

p^T"P*i?'^  K"-  ^^'^^  ^°S-  ^*-'i"g  informed  by  the 
Rockingham  Greenland  ship,  that  the  ice  was  ten 
leagues  off  Hakluyt's  Headland,  he  determined  to 
steer  for  that  north-western  extremity  of  Spitzbergen. 
on  the  5th,  as  he  was  avoiding  certain  islands  off 
uanes  Uat,  something  white  was  seen  amid  the 
mist,  and  a  noise  was  heard  as  of  surf  breaking  upon 
the  shore.  The  commander,  desiring  the  Carcass 
to  keep  close  to  him,  determined  to  stand  for  it,  and 
see  what  it  was.  Ere  long,  amid  thick  foo-,  the 
crews  saw  an  object  on  their  bow,  partly  blacjk,  and 
partly  covered  with  snow,  which  tliey  at  first  mis- 
took for  islands,  but  which  soon  proved  to  be  the 
mam  body  of  the  ice,  on  which  wind  and  sea  were 
beating  with  violence,  and  from  which  they  could 
not  have  escaped,  except  by  constant  change  of  tack, 
and  by  the  utmost  alertness  of  officers  and  men 

Captain  Phipps,  finding  himself  now  upon  the 
main  northern  ice,  and  being  informed  that  it  ex- 
tended, unbroken,  to  the  north-west,  determined  to 
move  eastward,— a  direction  seldom  taken  by  the 


IKS. 

t  the  mildness  of 
ht  sunshine,  and 
less  and  novelty 
omantic  scene." 
in  sailinjf  alonpr 
•ed  tlie  height  of 
'hich  was  found 
ley  learned  from 
that  the  ice  lay 
1,  and  that  one 
been  lost  in  the 

in  Pliipps  con- 
itzbergen,  pass- 
cngajfed  in  the 
igdalena  Hoek, 
servations  upon 
ieh  were  soon 
nformed  by  the 
le  ice  was  ten 

determined  to 
of  Spitzbergen. 
ain  islands  off 
seen  amid  the 

breaking  upon 
ig  the  Carcass 
itand  for  it,  and 

thick  fog,  the 
rtly  blacjk,  and 
:yat  first  mis- 
oved  to  be  the 

and  sea  were 
lich  they  could 
change  of  tack, 
s  and  men. 
tiow  upon  the 
led  that  it  ex- 
determined  to 
1  taken  by  the 


RECENT  POLAR  VOYAGES. 


S68 


whale-fishers,  and  where  he  hoped  to  find  some 
opening  to  them  unknown.    Continumg  to  work  his 
way  against  the  wind,  between  the  ice  and  the  land, 
he  passed  first  Hifkluyt's   Headland,  then    Vogel 
Sang,  and  on  the  7th  found  himself  approaching  the 
bold  pinnacle  of  Cloven  CliflT,— a  remarkable  pro- 
montory, nanuul  from  its  resemblance  to  a  cloven 
hoof,  and  whi(!li,  from  its  perpendicular  form,  is 
n(!ver  covered  with  snow.      Here,  as  the  frozen 
masses  increased  in  number  and  size,  and  fresh  ice 
was  forming  on  the  surface  of  the  sea,  the  officers 
and  men,  after  full  deliberation,  concluded  it  vam  to 
attempt  penetrating  in  this  direction.    They  were 
farther  discouraged,  by  considering  that  this  was 
nearly  the  place  in  which  all  previous  navigators 
had  been  checked  in  their  efforts  to  reach  the  Pole. 
Captain  Phipps  therefore  determined  to  stand  to  the 
westward,  cherishing  some  hopes  of  a  passage  in 
that  direction.    He  had  a  dreary  run,  immersed  in 
fogs  so  thick,  that  the  ships,  even  when  very  near, 
could  not  see  each  other.    A  number  of  the  crew, 
notwithstanding  an  extra  allowance  of  wine  and 
spirits,  became  affected  with  rheumatic  colds  and 
pains  in  the  bones.    Having  made  ten  degrees  to  the 
westward,  without  the  least  appearance  of  an  open- 
ing, the  commander  determined  again  to  try  the  east, 
in  the  hope  that  the  continuance  of  warm  weather 
might  have  dissolved  the  barriers  which  had  formerly 
arrested  his  progress.     On  the  12th  July  the  navi- 
gators were  again  in  the  vicinity  of  Cloven  Cliff, 
and  found  a  good  harbour  on  the  island,  to  which  it 
is  attached  by  a  narrow  isthmus.    Here  they  obtained 
abundance  of  water,  and,  notwitlistandiug  the  fog, 
made  some  important  celestial  observations  ;  taking 
the  bearings  and  altitudes  of  the  principal  objects  on 
the  coast.     In  endeavouring  to  push  on,  however, 
Captain  Phipps  was  again  stopped  at  neariy  the 
same  point  as  Ijeforc;  finding  the  ice  locked  in  with 
the  laud,  and  uo  passage  either  to  the  east  or  north. 


M4 


RECENT  I'OLAB  VOYAGES. 


He  turned  once  more  in  despair  westward,  and  kept 
close  to  the  miiiii  ice,  puNliina;  >"'<>  "H  itx  openings, 
Boni.'  of  which,  ht'iiii;  nearly  two  leagues  fonff,  af- 
forded hopes  of  a  pasBatfc;  but  they  proved  to  be 
onhr  ice-bays.    Near  Hakluyt'a  Headland  the  sh' is 
suffeied  ii  severe  pressure  betwecni  a  loose  fraft.aeut 
of  ico  and  the  main  l)oiiy.     The  communder  now 
found  It  very  unsafe  to  proceed  before  an  eastcily 
wind,  whi<  h  brought  in  all  the  loose  pieces,  and  drove 
them  iiffaiist  the  sn-eat  mass,  making  it  resemble  a 
rocky  shore;  andiiprovedboth  ea-sierandsafer  tosail 
a»r:nnst  the  wind.     Captain  Phipps  rcsolvtjd,  in  spite 
ol  rrpeated  repulses,  to  make  another  effort  to  the 
''ii-.tward ;  and  this  lime  he  had  some  success.    Mak- 
ing way  through  the  loose  fragments,  he  came  to  an 
ojjfn  sea,  stretching  north-east,  which  inspired  the 
most  flatt<  ring  hopes.    The  coast  was  neither  so 
lofty,  nor  exhibited  the  same  dark  monotonous  aspect, 
as  the  one  he  had  just  passed ;  the  tints,  beuig  more 
varied  and  having  more  of  the  natural  colour  of 
earth,  h;\il  caused  the  early  navigators  to  give  to 
different  points  the  names  of  lied  Beach,  Red  Hill, 
and  Red  Cliff.    At  length  he  reached  Moffen,  an 
island  low  and  flat,  covered  with  numerous  flocks  of 
wildfowl.    Ho  continued  two  days  longer  to  sail 
through  an  open  sea,  meeting  only  loose  floating 
masses,  till,  on  the  27th,  he  was  stopped  by  the  main 
body  of  (lie  ice  lying  east  and  west.     He  then 
coasted  it  to  the  eastward,  pushing  the  ship,  by  a 
press  of  sail,  into  the  icy  bays  or  openings,  not- 
withstanding the  large  loose  pieces  by  wliich  these 
were  encumbered.    On  the  29th  July  the  expedi- 
tion  reached  a  low  flat  island,  larger  than  Moffen, 
clothed  with  moss,  and  filled  with  deer  and  various 
animals.    They  found  on  the  shore  large  fir-trees, 
some  70  feet  long,  partly  torn  up  by  the  roots,  partly 
cut  down  by  the  axe,  and  fashioned  into  different 
shapes,  but  all  pfrfectly  entire.     Two  of  the  officers 
engaged  in  an  encounter  with  a  walrus,  from  which 


\9. 

twanl,  and  kept 
h11  itH  openinf^, 

ray  proved  to  he 
uiland  the  shps 
I  loose  fraftiuent 
•ommundpr  now 
ifore  aneastcily 
)ic('cs,  and  drove 
Iff  it  resemble  a 
fiind  safer  to  sail 
csolvtjd,  in  .spito 
her  effort  to  the 
success.  Mak- 
,  he  came  to  an 
ch  inspired  the 
tvas  neither  so 
otonous  aspect, 
nts,  being  more 
tural  colour  of 
lors  to  give  to 
leach,  Red  Hill, 
hed  Moffen,  an 
lerous  flocks  of 

longer  to  sail 
r  loose  floating 
aed  by  the  main 
'est.     He  then 

the  ship,  by  a 
openings,  not- 
by  wliich  these 
ly  the  expedi- 
r  than  Moffen, 
er  and  various 
large  fir-trees, 
le  roots,  partly 

into  different 
I  of  the  officers 
IS,  from  which 


RRCKNT  POt,AR  VOYAOFd. 


308 


they  came  off  witli  little  honour.  The  animal  be- 
ing single,  was  wounded  in  the  flrtit  instance ;  but  hti 
immediately  plungred  into  the  deep,  and  came  up 
with  a  large  body  of  his  fellows,  who  made  a  united 
attack  upon  the  boat,  wrested  an  oar  from  one  of 
the  men,  and  had  nearly  overset  her,  when  another 
boat  from  the  Carcass, imder  the  command  of  Nelson, 
(;amr   o  her  relief. 

''  he  point  which  the  discoverers  had  n(»v 

1  i,  they  saw  that  remote  peninsula  of  Spitz- 

whicii  the  Dutch  call  North-east-land,  and 
tlie  range  of  the  Seven  Islands.    The  ice 
I'  '>ogan  to  gjither  round  them,  and  Captain 

J  . . .  "a  moimting  the  top  of  a  highisland,  saw 

to  tuc  east  ind  north-cast  one  continued  frozen  sur- 
face, boundrd  only  by  the  horizon.  The  ships  were 
now  becalmed  amid  a  In  ;intiful  and  picturesque 
scene;  the  immense  field  of  ice  being  covered  with 
Know,  except  that  some  pools  of  water  were  coated 
with  a  thin  newly-formed  crust.  The  mariners 
attempted  in  vain  to  make  any  sensible  progress 
eastward;  the  ice  closed  fast,  and  no  opening  was 
any  where  seen,  except  for  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
round  the  ships.  The  pilots,  who  had  never  before 
proceeded  so  far,  were  seriously  alarmed  lest  they 
should  be  beset.  Nor  were  their  fears  groundless, 
for  next  day  the  ships  were  frozen  in  faster  than  ever, 
not  having  room  to  turn,  while  the  passage  by  whic^h 
they  had  entered  from  the  westward  had  entirely 
closed  up  behind  them.  The  adventurers  had  then 
no  room  for  farther  consideration,  but  how  to  ex- 
tricate themselves  and  return  home.  They  began 
sawing  through  deep  ice,  where  it  was  sometimes 
twelve  feet  thick ;  and  these  laborious  efforts  only 
enabled  them  to  move  three  hundred  yards  west- 
ward; while  the  mass  within  which  they  were 
enclosed  was  moving  eastward,  carrying  them  along 
with  it.  In  these  circumstances.  Captain  Phipps 
•onceived  no  time  was  to  be  lost  in  putting  out  the 


t66 


nCCVNT  POtAR  VOVAOEH. 


bonti  and  draffpnsf  them  over  the  ice,  with  tlio  view 
of  reaeliing  the  Dutch  Bhips,  which  usuiiUy  be^an 
about  this  time  to  direct  tneir  course  homewards. 
On  the  7th  \uKUt,'  (lie  boats  were  got  forwanl  two 
miles;  and  tiie  cuii.>>'u1er«  on 'lia  returning  to  the 
shipa,  finding  the  ic^;  >•  i  .',  them  a  'ittle  more  open, 
caused  all  sails  »o  be  t;  a.  •  y  whit^x  ■.■.cans  they  wor.) 
r.adc  to  move  forward,  ti.onsi;h  rlowly,  and  still 
coiuiteracted  by  the  drift-ice.  Hi-inK  favoureil,  how- 
ever, by  moist  and  foffxy  wem'ier,  their  projfrcss  be- 
came more  rapid.  They  came  up  with  the  boats, 
dud  took  then)  in ;  and  on  the  lOth,  having  a  brink 
gale  from  the  north-east,  they  forced  the  ships  through 
all  obsta  I  ,  though  not  without  sustaining  many 
lieavy  st.u)  i!S,  and  bre<iking  the  shank  of  their  best 
bower-anci  ir;  but  about  noon  they  found  themselves 
in  tlie  open  sea. 

Being  thus  d  ii  ■  i  red  from  their  greatest  fear,  they 
repaired  to  the  harl«  .n  of  Smeerenberg  for  rest  and 
refreshment.  In  ii"  trinity  they  admired  a  very 
lofty  iceberg,  which  , m  anted  to  the  sea  a  perpendi- 
cular face  nearly  300  leet  high,  of  a  line  light  gieen 
colour,  and  down  which  a  cascade  was  pouring. 
"  The  blacit  mountains,  white  snow,  and  beautiful 
colour  of  the  ice,  made  a  very  romantte  and  uncom- 
mon picture."  A  large  fragment,  which  had  fallen 
into  the  sea,  floated  out,  and  grounded  in  twenty- 
four  fathoms :  it  stood  fifty  feet  high,  and  was  of  the 
same  beautiful  colour  as  the  iceberg. 

Captain  Phipps,  before  quitting  tlie  Polar  world, 
made  some  general  remarks  on  the  phenomena  which 
it  presents.  He  observed  always  a  great  swell  near 
the  edge  of  the  ice ;  but.  whenever  he  was  enclosed 
among  its  loose  frag^inents,  ibe  sea  was  perfectly 
smooth.  According  to  Hudson,  me  green  waters 
were  fiee  from  ice,  wlitsh  was  found  only  in  the  blue ; 
but  no  ground  was  now  seen  for  this  distinction,  nor 
does  there  probably  exist  any.  Marten  described 
the  aun  at  nmlniyht  us  resembling  llio  moon  u»  up- 


aHimim 


if* 


f 


mmttir  liiuniii  nmiimfi  lYir   li  m      i  iiriii  -  „|irt,i 


P    ' 


DEH. 

ice,  with  the  view 
ich  usually  be^an 
jursp  homewards. 

I  ({ot  forward  two 
s  rbturniuK  to  the 

II  'ittle  moro  open, 
\  .xans  they  wt-r.) 

f lowly,  and  still 
in^  favourtHJ,  how- 
their  proifri-ss  bc- 
p  with  tliii  boats, 
th,  having  a  brisk 
dtlic  ships  through 

sustaining  many 
ihank  of  their  best 
f  found  them.selvca 

greatest  fear,  they 
;nberg  for  rest  and 
y  admired  a  very 
the  sea  a  perpendi- 
'  a  hue  light  green 
ade  was  pouring, 
low,  and  beautiful 
nanthj  and  unconi- 
:,  which  had  fallen 
)unded  in  twenty- 
igh,  and  was  of  the 
jrg. 

J  tlie  Polar  world, 
!  phenomena  which 

a  great  swell  near 
jr  he  was  enclosed 
sea  was  perfectly 

ihe  green  waters 
id  only  in  the  blue ; 
his  distinction,  nor 

Marten  described 
i  iho  moon  ui  up* 


— -^ 


r 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


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Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)872-4503 


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ll 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


' 


L 


RECENT  POLAR  VOYAGES. 


267 


pearance;  but  our  observers  could  see  no  differ- 
ence, except  what  arose  from  its  being  lower  in  the 
heavens. 

Oh  the  19th  AuGfust,  Captain  Phipps  weighed  for 
England,  and  on  tiie  Slth  was  somewhat  surprised  by 
tlie  sight  of  Jupiter,  no  star  having  for  a  long  time 
been  visible  amid  the  perpetual  liglit  of  the  northern 
sl{y.  After  passing  Shetland  on  tlie  7th  September, 
he  met  with  a  series  of  very  heavy  gales,  diu'ing 
which  he  lost  three  boats,  and  was  obliged  to  throw 
two  guns  overboard.  However,  having  reached  Or- 
fordness  on  the  24th,  he  proceeded  without  farther 
difficulty  to  the  Nore. 

The  result  of  this  voyage,  which  was  considered 
as  having  been  made  under  fair  and  even  favourable 
circumstances,  tended  altogether  to  chill  the  hopes 
of  penetrating  nearer  to  the  great  northern  boimda- 
ries  of  the  earth.  It  seemed  that,  from  the  eightieth 
degree,  ice  in  one  unbroken  field  stretched  to  the 
Pole,  and  that  its  margin  presented  an  impenetrable 
wall  to  the  navigators  of  the  Greenland  Sea.  Dis- 
appointed hope  was  followed,  as  usual,  by  a  suspen- 
sion of  interest ;  and  the  northern  realms  had  simk 
almost  into  oblivion,  till  the  revival  of  the  recent 
spirit  of  discovery.  Public  attention  was  first  recalled 
to  them  by  Mr.  Scoresby,  who,  Bred  as  a  practical 
whale-fisher,  had  been  nursed,  as  it  were,  amid  the 
tempests  and  snows  of  the  north,  and  had  observed 
their  aspects  with  an  intelligent  and  scientific  eye, 
very  unusual  among  those  who  pursue  so  rough  and 
bustling  a  trade. 

In  1806  this  gentleman  made  the  nearest  approach 
to  the  Pole  that  has  ever  yet  been  fully  authenti- 
cated ;  for  the  statements  of  the  Dutch,  and  other 
navigators,  who  boast  of  having  gone  much  nearer, 
are  subject  to  great  doubt  as  to  their  observations  of 
latitude.  Mr.  Scoresby  was  then  acting  as  mate 
under  his  father,  who  commanded  a  GreeSand  ship. 
They  at  first  proceeded  by  Jan  Mayen  into  the  west. 


t 


sea 


RECENT   POLAR  VOYAGES. 


era  bight,  where  the  seal-fishery  is  carried  on ;  but 
afterward  they  changed  their  purpose,  and  came 
round  to  the  whale-biglit.    They  found  the  vmters 
encumbered,  even  in  a  low  latitude,  by  much  broken 
ice,  through  which  they  made  their  way  not  without 
some  danger.    They  then  reached  an  open  sea,  so 
extensive  that  its  termination  could  not  be  disco- 
vered, and  it  was  believed  to  extend  four  or  five 
hundred  square  leagues.    On  proceeding  northward, 
however,  they  soon  arrived  at  a  very  close  conti- 
nuous field,  consisting  of  bay-ice  compacted  by  drift- 
ing fragments.    They  pushed  their  way  through  it 
by  the  most  laborious  exertions,— towing,  boring, 
warping,  and  mill-dolling— &  process  which  consists 
in  the  use  of  a  sort  of  battering-ram.    Having  thus 
opened  a  path  across  a  very  extended  barrier,  they 
came,  almost  beyond  hope,  to  an  open  sea,  which 
appeared  nearly  unbounded,  having  only  the  ice  on 
the  south  and  the  land  on  the  east.    Their  object 
was  to  catch  whales ;  and,  following  their  primary 
purpose,  they  chose  a  west-north-west  direction. 
Swiftly  crossing  tlie  short  meridians  of  this.parallel, 
they  soon  passed  from  the  10th  degree  of  east  to  the 
8th  degree  of  west  longitude.    Their  latitude  was 
79"  35',  and  the  sea  was  still  open  on  every  side.   As 
whales,  however.  Were  wanting,  they  changed  their 
tack,  and  ran  east-north-east  about  300  miles,  till 
they  came  o  the  19th  degree  of  east  longitude ;  and 
here  they  found  themselves  in  lat.  81°  30',  being  a 
degree  higher  than  Phipps  had  reached,  and  only 
about  500  geographical  miles  from  the  Pole.    Had 
discovery  been  their  object,  they  had  now  a  brilliant 
opportmiity;  and  neither  master  nor  mate  would 
have  been  insensible  to  the  glory  of  acquiring  en- 
larged knowledge  of  these  utmost  boundaries  of  the 
earth.    But  they  had  been  fitted  out  by  a  mercantile 
body  to  bring  home  a  cargo  of  whale  oil,  and  this 
solid  purpose  could  not  be  postponed  to  the  most 
brilliant  speculations  of  science.    The  sea  lay  vast 


r 


iOES. 

is  carried  on ;  but 
irposc,  and  camo 
found  the  v/aters 
i,  by  much  broken 
r  way  not  without 
d  an  open  sea,  so 
uld  not  be  disco- 
ctend  four  or  five 
eeding  northward, 
very  close  conti- 
)mpacted  by  drift- 
ir  way  through  it 
—towing,  baring, 
ss  which  consists 
m.    Having  thus 
ided  barrier,  they 
open  sea,  which 
ig  only  the  ice  on 
ist.    Their  object 
ng  their  primary 
h-wost  direction. 
IS  of  this.parallel, 
free  of  east  to  the 
heir  latitude  was 
»n  every  side.   As 
ley  changed  their 
ut  300  miles,  till 
3t  longitude ;  and 
.  81°  30',  being  a 
sached,  and  only 
1  the  Pole.    Had 
id  now  a  brilliant 
nor  mate  woiUd 
of  acquiring  en- 
)oundaries  of  the 
t  by  a  mercantile 
iiale  oil,  and  this 
•ned  to  the  most 
The  sea  lay  vast 


T 


RKCENT    POIAR   VOYAOES. 


269 


«ind  open  before  them ;  but,  as  it  contained  no  whales, 
it  behooved  them  to  stetr  their  course  backwards  to- 
wards  Hakluyt's  Headland,  in  the  vicinity  of  which 
they  caught  twenty-four  of  those  valuable  animals, 
fl'om  which  were  extracted  S16  tons  of  oil. 

Mr.  Scoresby  indulged  his  curiosity  by  landing  on 
some  of  the  insular  tracts  which  fill  the  depths  of  the 
Polar  sea,  and  clambering  up  the  lofty  steeps  which 
usualhr  rise  from  their  shores.  Charles's  Island,  or 
Fair  Foreland,  at  tlie  north-west  of  Spitzbergen,  was 
the  first  Arctic  ground  on  which  he  landed ;  but  the 
fog  soon  spread  so  thick,  that  he  coiUd  remark  little 
except  thennmense  multitudeof  birds  which  clustered 
around  the  rocks  and  precipices.  Afterward,  in  1818, 
he  landed  near  Mitre  Cape,  and  undertook  to  reach 
the  summit  of  that  singularly  insulated  cliff  of  which 
it  consists.  Much  of  the  ascent  was  over  fragments 
of  rock  so  loose,  that  the  foot  in  walking  slid  back 
every  step,  and  the  party  could  make  no  progress 
but  by  the  very  laborious  operations  of  running  and 
leaping.  The  continuance  of  frost  appears  to  cause 
this  extraordinary  decomposition  of  the  rocky  sub- 
stance. At  one  place  they  found  a  ridge  so  steep, 
that  Mr.  Scoresby  could  seat  himself  across  it  as  on 
the  back  of  a  horse.  They  reached  the  summit,  es- 
timated at  3000  feet  high,  about  midnight,  when  the 
sun  still  shone  bright  on  its  snow-capped  pinnacle, 
causing  such  a  rapid  dissolution,  that  streams  of 
water  were  flowing  around  them.  It  is  considered 
remarkable,  that,  in  this  frozen  region,  where,  even 
at  a  moderate  elevation,  the  mean  annual  temperature 
must  be  below  the  freezing  ^int,  the  highest  sum- 
mits should  put  off  their  wmter-covering  of  snow, 
in  which  so  many  peaks,  both  of  the  temperate  and 
of  the  torrid  zones,  are  perpetually  enveloped.  It 
would  appear,  however,  that  during  the  short  interval 
of  continuous  summer-day,  the  rays  of  the  sun, 
beating  perpetually  on  the  mountain-tops,  which  are 
raised  above  the  fogs  that  surround  the  watery  surface. 
Z2 


970 


RECENT  -POtAB  TOTAOEI. 


produce  a  deiarree  of  heat  much  greater  than  corres* 
ponds  with  the  latitude.  Hence  the  general  average 
of  the  year,  and  especially  the  part  which  composes 
the  lon^  Arctic  night,  must  be  mariied  by  a  fearful 
depression. 

The  view  from  this  summit  is  described  by  Mr 
Scorcsby  as  equally  grand,  extensive,  and  beautiful. 
On  the  east  side  were  two  finely-sheltered  bays, 
while  the  sea,  unruflled  by  a  single  breeze,  formed 
an  immense  expanse  to  the  west.  The  icebergs 
reared  their  fantastic  forms  almost  on  a  level  with 
the  summits  of  the  mountains,  whose  cavities  they 
filled,  while  the  sun  illumined,  but  (tould  not  dissolve 
them.  The  valleys  were  enamelled  with  beds  of 
snow  and  ice,  one  of  which  extended  beyond  reach 
of  the  eye.  In  the  interior,  mountains  rose  beyond 
mountains,  till  they  melted  into  distance.  The 
cloudless  canopy  above,  and  the  position  of  the  party 
themselves,  on  the  pinnacle  of  a  rock,  siuroimded 
by  tremendous  precipices,  conspired  to  render  their 
situation  equally  singular  and  sublime.  If  a  frag- 
ment  was  detached,  either  spontaneously  or  by  design, 
it  bounded  from  rock  to  rock,  raising  smoke  at  every 
blow,  and  setting  numerous  other  fragments  in  mo- 
tion, till,  amid  showers  of  stones,  it  reached  the  bot- 
tom of  the  mountain.  The  descent  of  the  party  was 
more  difficult  and  perilous  than  the  ascent.  The 
stones  sunk  beneath  their  steps,  and  rolled  do^n  the 
mountain,  and  they  were  obliged  to  walk  abreast, 
otherwise  "le  foremost  might  have  been  overwhelmed 
under  the  masses  which  those  behind  him  dislodged. 
Finally,  to  the  astonishment  and  alarm  of  the  sailors 
beneath,  Mr.  Scoresby  and  his  companions,  in  a  part 
of  their  descent,  slid"do\vn  an  almost  perpendicular 
wall  of  ice,  and  arrived  in  safety  at  the  ships.  The 
beach  was  found  nearly  covered  with  the  nests  of 
terns,  ducks,  and  other  tenants  of  the  Arctic  air,  in 
some  of  which  there  were  yowng,  over  whom  the 
parents  kept  watch,  and,  by  loud  cries  and  vehement 


OCB. 

3atcr  than  corres- 
le  general  average 
t  which  composes 
iiited  by  a  fearful 

described  by  Mr 
vc,  and  beautiful, 
yr-sheltercd  bays, 
le  breeze,  formed 
it.  The  icebergs 
;  on  a  level  with 
ose  cavities  they 
;ould  not  dissolve 
lied  with  beds  of 
led  beyond  reach 
tains  rose  beyond 
distance.  The 
sition  of  the  party 
rock,  surrounded 
!d  to  render  their 
)lime.  If  a  frag- 
jusly  or  by  design, 
ig  smoke  at  every 
fragments  in  mo- 
t  reached  the  bot- 
t  of  the  party  was 
the  ascent.  The 
i  rolled  doyfti  the 
to  walk  abreast, 
een  overwhelmed 
id  him  dislodged, 
arm  of  the  sailors 
panions,  in  a  part 
38t  perpendicular 
t  the  ships.  The 
vith  the  nests  of 
the  Arctic  air,  in 
,  over  whom  the 
ies  and  vehement 


RECENT  POLAR  VOYAGES. 


271 


gestures,  sought  to  defend  them  against  the  gulls 
and  other  predatory  tribes  hovering  around.    Several 
sailors  wlio  had  robbed  these  nests  were  followed  to 
a  considerable  distance  with  loud  and  violent  screams. 
'    Mr.  Scoresby,  also,  in  1817,  landed  and  made  an 
excursion  on  Jan  Mayen's  land.    The  most  striking 
leature  was  the  mountain  Hcerenberg,  wliich  rears 
Its  head  6870  feet  above  the  sea;  and,  being  seen  to 
the  distance  of  thirty  or  forty  leagues,  nroves  a  con- 
spiciious  landmark  to  the  mariner,     llie  first  object 
which  attracted  the  eye  were  three  magnificent  ice- 
bergs,  which  rose  to  a  very  great  height,  stretching 
iTom  the  base  of  Beerenberg  to  the  water's  edge" 
1  heir  usual  greenish-gray  colour,  diversified  by  snow- 
white  patches  resembluig  foam,  and  with    black 
points  of  rock  jutting  out  from  the  surface,  gave  them 
exactly  the  appearance  of  immense  cascades,  which 
m  lalling  had  been  fixed  by  the  power  of  frost.    A 
party  ascended  a  mountain  which  composed  only 
the  base  of  Beer  iiberg,yet  was  itself  1600  feet  high, 
rhey  were  not  long  in  discovering  that  the  materials 
composing  this  eminence  were  entirely  volcanic. 
They  trod  only  upon  ashes,  slag,  baked  clay,  and 
sconce ;  and,  whenever  these  substances  rolled  under 
their  feet,  the  ground  beneath  made  a  sound  hke  that 
of  empty  metallic  vessels  or  vaulted  caverns.    On 
the  summit  they  discovered  a  spacious  cratrr,  about 
600  feet  deep,  and  700  yards  in  diameter,  tlie  bottom 
of  which  was  filled  with  alluvial  matter,  and  which, 
being  surrounded  by  rugged  walls  of  red  clay  half- 
baked,  had  the  appearance  of  a  spacious  castle.    A 
spnng  of  water  penetrated  its  side  by  a  subterranean 
cavern,  and  disappeared  in  the  sand.    No  attempt 
was  made  to  ascend  Beerenberg,  wliich  towered  in 
awful  grandeur,  white  with  snow,  above  the  region 
of  the  clouds;  but  at  its  feet  was  seen  another  crater 
surrounded  by  an  immense  accumulation  of  castel- 
lated  lava.    A  large  mass  of  iron  was  found,  that 
had  been  smelted  by  the  interior  fires.    The  volcano 


"ii-MIPPWilPpPWW^ 


373 


RECENT   POtAR  VOYAGES. 


was  at  this  time  entirely  silent,  but  Mr.  Scoreflby 
next  year  saw  smoke  rising  from  it  to  a  great  heiglit ; 
and  the  same  phenomenon  had,  in  1818,  been  dis- 
cerned by  Captain  Oiiyott  of  the  Richard,  who  even 
remarked  a  shining  redness  like  the  embers  of  a 
large  fire. 

The  most  important  discoveries,  however,  effected 
by  Mr.  Scoresby,  took  place  in  1822,  when  he  sailed 
in  the  ship  Baffin,  of  331  tons  and  50  men,  for  the 
whale-fishery.    He  departed  from  Liverpool  on  tlie 
27th  March,  and  on  the  28th  passed  the  Mull  of  Can- 
tyre,  but  immediately  after  encountered  a  violent 
gale,  which,  blowing  on  this  dangerous  coast,  ol)liged 
him  to  take  shelter  for  ten  days  in  Loch  Ryan.   This 
interval  of  leisure  was  improved,  according  to  his 
laudable  custom,  for  purposes  of  scientific  experi- 
ment ;  and  in  this  instance  he  had  particularly  m 
view  the  improvement  of  the  chronometers  used  m 
navigation.    On  the  8th  April  he  again  set  sail; 
passed  on  the  10th  the  dangerous  rocks  and  islands 
of  Skerivore,  west  of  Tiree;  and  on  the  11th,  at 
noon,  saw  the  island  of  St.  Kilda.    On  the  Mth, 
when  only  in  lat.  64»  3(y,   the   cry  was   raised 
that  ice  was  in  sight,  and  the  mariners  were  soon 
involved  in  its  streams,  accompanied  with  the  usual 
dense  and  deep  obscurity  of  Arctic  fogs.    On  the 
morrow  they  were  stopped  by  an  extensive  patch, 
which  they  spent  several  days  in  vainly  attempting 
to  double ;  but  at  length,  setting  all  sail  on  the  ship, 
they  made  their  way  through  it  in  the  course  of  an 
hour.    They  now  proceeded  northward  with  a  fair 
wind,  observing  the  brilliant  phenomenon  of  the 
Aurora  Borealis,  and  seeing  the  ocean  covered  with 
large  quantities  of  drift-wood.    On  the  25th  April, 
in  lat.  75°,  they  found  themselves  in  the  region  of 
continued  day;  and  being  now  in  "a  fishing  latitude, ' 
took  out  their  boats,  coiled  their  lines,  and  prepared 
the  harpooiis,  lances,  and  other  apparatus.    On  the 
27th  they  reached  the  80th  degree,  and  were  within 


■T'ii'i'itfr'*^''"''^"'' 


i^ 


■itfxnir 


imffmiTt  \  liumUiiltifH 


1 


•V 


TlECENT    POLAR   VOYAGES. 


278 


U  Mr.  Scoreflby 

0  !i  frreat  lieight ; 
,  1818,  been  dis- 
chard, who  even 
he  embers  of  a 

lowever,  effected 
1,  when  he  sailed 
50  men,  for  the 
Liverpool  on  the 
the  Mull  of  Can- 
ntered  a  violent 
)us  coast,  ol)liKed 
,och  Ryun.  This 
according  to  his 
scientific  expcri- 
d  particularly  in 
nometers  used  in 
!  again  set  sail; 
ocks  and  islands 

on  the  Uth,  at 
a.    On  the  Itth, 

cry  was  raised 
irinera  were  soon 
ed  with  the  usual 
ic  fogs.    On  the 

extensive  patcih, 
vainly  attempting 
II  sail  on  the  ship, 

1  the  course  of  an 
iward  with  a  fair 
jnomenon  of  the 
ean  covered  with 
n  the  25th  April, 
%  in  tlie  region  of 
a  fishing  latitude," 
ines,  and  prepared 
pi)aratus.  On  the 
1,  aud  were  within 


ten  miles  of  Hakluyt'g  Headland  without  having  yet 
felt  any  frost.  Ontinuiiig  to  approach  the  Poh-, 
Mr.  Scoresby  reached,  on  the  asth,  the  main  northern 
loe  at  the  same  point  where  it  had  been  found  by 
Lord  Mulgrave.  He  proposed  to  run  along  it  to  the 
eastward,  in  hopes  of  reaching  a  good  fishing  station, 
but  the  state  of  the  wind  compelled  him  to  turn  in 
tlie  opposite  direction.  On  the  Cth  May  the  first 
whale  was  taken.  On  the  9th  a  heavy  gale  from  tlio 
north-east  produced  symptoms  of  cold,  similar  to 
those  felt  in  the  extremity  of  an  Arctic  winter ;  the 
skin  adhering  to  metallic  substances;  water  spilt 
within  three  feet  of  the  cabin  fire  converted  into  ice ; 
even  a  mug  of  good  beer  nearly  frozen  at  the  very 
foot  of  the  stove.  Mr.  Scoresby's  situation  was 
painful;  the  sea  was  covered  with  such  a  dense 
stratum  of  frost-rime,  reaching  to  the  height  of  50 
feet,  that  nothing  could  be  seen  from  the  deck :  and 
lie  could  not  guide  the  ship  without  mounting  the 
topmast,  wliere  the  view  was  clear,  but  the  tcmiwra- 
ture  was  from  3  to  8  degrees  below  zero,  which  the 
gale  rendered  most  intensely  piercing.  Soon  after, 
being  involved  in  floating  ice,  he  had  a  most  difficult 
(lourse  to  steer,  though  he  observes  that,  to  a  true 
navigator,  the  high  exertion  of  nautical  skill  required 
to  perform  the  continual  evolutions  and  changes  of 
course  necessary  amid  floating  ice,  is  productive  of 
peculiar  enjoyment;  and  accordingly  he  extricated 
liimself  without  any  material  damage. 

Mr.  Scoresby,  finding  no  whales  in  his  present 
station,  determined  upon  a  change.  For  some  time 
past,  these  high  latitudes,  probably  in  consequence 
of  having  been  so  long  Jished,  had  become  nearly 
unproductive,  and  the  only  good  cargoes  were  ob- 
tained  by  penetrating  through  the  ice  to  the  eastern 
shores  of  Greenland.  A  trip  in  this  q\iarter  coin- 
cided with  another  object  in  which  Mr.  Scoresby 
felt  peculiar  interest.  The  whole  range  of  this  coast 
was  absolutely  imknown,  unless  at  a  figw  points, 


274 


nKCENT    POLAR    VOYAOE*'. 


which  tho  Dutnh  had  approiirhed  and  named ;  and 
it  formed  a  coiitintioiis  lino  with  lh;U  on  which  the 
colonies  of  Old  Greenland,  the  subject  of  much  in- 
terest and  controversy,  were  supposed  to  have  been 
situated. 

In  this  course  Mr.  Scoresby  was  amused  by  strikinc; 
instances  of  the  refractive  power  of  the  Polar 
atmosphere,  when  acting  upon  ice  and  other  objirts 
discerned  through  its  medium.  The  rugged  surfaiie 
assumed  the  forms  of  castles,  obelisks,  and  spires, 
which  here  and  there  were  sometimes  so  linked 
tojfether,  as  to  present  the  semblance  of  an  extensive 
and  crowded  city.  At  other  times  it  resembled  a 
forest  of  naked  trees ;  and  fancy  scarcely  required 
an  effort  to  identify  its  varieties  with  the  productions 
of  human  art ; — sculptured  colossal  forms,  porticoes 
of  rich  and  regular  architecture,— even  with  the  shapes 
of  lions,  bears,  horses,  and  other  animals.  Ships 
were  seen  inverted,  and  suspended  high  in  the  air, 
and  their  hulls  often  so  magnified  as  to  resemhlo 
huge  edifices.  Objects  really  beneath  the  horizon 
were  raised  into  view  in  a  most  extraordinary  man- 
ner. It  seems  positively  ascertained,  that  points  in 
the  coast  of  Greenland,  not  above  3000  or  4000  feet 
high,  were  seen  at  the  distance  of  ICO  miles.  The 
extensive  evaporation  of  the  melting  ices,  with  the 
unequal  condensation  produced  by  streams  of  cold 
air,  are  considered  by  Mr.  Scoresby  as  tlie  chief 
sources  of  this  extraordinary  refraction. 

It  was  on  the  8th  of  .lune  that,  in  74^  6'  north  la- 
titude, a  vast  range  of  land  was  discovered,  extend- 
ing from  north  to  south,  about  ninety  miles,  and  of 
which  the  most  northerly  point  was  concluded  to  be 
that  named  on  the  charts  Gale  Hamkes'  Land,  while 
the  most  southerly  appeared  to  be  Hudson's  Hold- 
with-Hope.  Mr.  Scoresby's  ambition,  however,  to 
mount  some  of  its  bold  crags,  which  no  European 
foot  had  ever  trod,  was  defeated  by  the  mterposition 
of  an  impassable  barrier  of  ice ;  and  a  similar  one 


L 


VAOKK. 

h\  and  named ;  nnd 
\\  ih;it  on  which  the 
subject  of  much  in- 
pposed  to  have  been 

s  amuHod  by  strikinc; 
iwer  of  the  Polar 
ce  and  other  objects 
The  niprgcd  surfarro 
obelisks,  and  spires, 
)metimeB  so  linked 
ance  of  an  extensive 
mes  it  resembled  a 
!y  scarcely  required 
vith  the  productions 
ssal  forms,  porticoes 
■even  with  the  shapes 
ler  animals.  Ships 
ided  high  in  the  air, 
fied  as  to  resemblo 
l)eneath  the  horizon 
extraordinary  man- 
;aiued,  that  points  in 
»ve  3000  or  4000  feet 
of  ICO  miles.  The 
lelting  ices,  with  the 
by  streams  of  cold 
)resby  as  the  chief 
fraction. 

t,  in  74^  C  north  la- 
discovered,  extend- 
ninety  miles,  and  of 
was  concluded  to  be 
Hamkes'  Land,  while 
I  be  Hudson's  Hold- 
abition,  however,  to 
which  no  European 
by  the  interposition 
;  and  a  similar  on« 


RTECENT   POLAR   V0TA0K8. 


975 


havinir  closed  in  behind  him,  he  was  obliRcd  to  sad 
back  and  forward  for  severiU  days  throuKh  a  narrow 
chaniul.  DurinR  this  interval  he  had  a  jfood  opppr- 
» unity  of  takinat  the  beariuRS  and  directions  of  this 
ffreat  line  of  coast.  The  latitude,  as  given  in  the 
maps,  was  tolerably  correct,  and  was  indeed  his  only 
^riiide  in  tracing  the  positions;  for  the  longitude,  after 
tlu!  most  careful  observation,  was  found  to  differ 
seven  degrees  from  the  best  charts,  and  ten  degrees 
from  those  usually  supFtlicd  to  the  whale-fishers. 
This  const  was  generally  mountainous,  iiigged,  and 
barren,  bearing  much  resemblance  to  that  of  Spitz- 
bcrgen,  though  less  covered  with  snow.  It  could  not 
be  fully  ascertained  whether  some  low  ground  might 
not  be  interposed  between  the  sea  and  the  mountains ; 
but  their  aspect,  and  the  general  analogy  of  the  Arc- 
tic  shores,  suggested  the  idea  that  these  mighty  clUls 
dipped  perpendicularly  into  the  waves. 

Mr.  Scoresby  followed  the  usual  system  of  naming 
the  prominent  objects,  either  after  persons  eminent 
in  science  or  after  his  private  friends.  The  two  prin- 
cipal bays  or  inlets  were  designated  from  Captain 
Kater  and  Sir  Walter  Scott ;  while  two  spacious  fore- 
lands or  projecting  peninsulas,  the  former  supposed 
to  be  an  island,  were  assigned  to  Dr.  WoUaston  and 
Sir  Kvcrard  Home.  Other  bays  and  capes  were  be- 
stowed upon  Sir  Thomas  Brisbane,  Dr.  Brinkley, 
Colonel  Beaufoy,  Dr.  Holland,  Mr.  Herschel,  and 
some  of  the  author's  personal  friends.  Afterward, 
obtaining  the  view  of  some  smaller  bays  to  the  south, 
he  was  enabled  thus  to  compliment  Sir  George  Mac- 
kenzie, Sir  Charles  Giesecke,  Baron  Humboldt,  M. 
de  la  Place,  and  M.  Freycinet. 

Mr.  Scoresby  now  made  a  movement  eastward 
in  search  of  whales,  of  which  he  found  no  traces  in 
the  vicinity  of  land.  Tliis  change  of  purpose  was 
attended  with  a  very  distressuig  circumstance.  Wd- 
liam  Carr,  one  of  his  most  expert  harpooners,  and  a 
tine  active  feliww.liud  struck  a  whale,  wluch  flew  oil 


ff9 


RECKNT   POLAR  VOVAOU. 


with  such  rapidity,  that  the  line  wna  jnrked  out  of 
itn  place,  and  threatened  the  thnkini;  of  the  boat. 
Having  snatched  tiie  mpo  to  replace  it  in  the  pioper 
position,  he  was  caught  by  a  sudden  tunj,  instantly 
unisrafed  overboard  and  plunged  under  water  to  rise 
no  more.  The  boat  havuig  at  once  righted  itself,  tlin 
sailors  looked  roiind  and  asked,  "Where  is  Carri" 
One  man  cmly  had  seen  him  disappear,  hut  so  instiui- 
tancously,  that  he  had  merely  missed  the  olycct, 
without  l)ftiniT  alile  to  say  how.  The  distress  and 
ajritationof  the  survivors  afforded  the  stricken  whale 
a  resjMte,  of  wiiich  he  availed  himself  to  effect  his 
escajje.  Mr.  Scoresby,  deeply  distressed,  took  the 
opportunity  next  Lord's  day  of  railing  the  attention 
of  his  crew  to  their  own  most  importan*,  interests, 
and  to  their  preparation  for  such  a  catastrophe  as 
had  befallen  their  comrade ;  on  which  occasion  all 
the  sailors  seemed  much  affected. 

About  a  month  was  passed  in  searching  for  whales 
at  a  little  distanct'  from  the  shore,  and  several  of 
these  aninuils,  as  well  as  narwale,  were  taken ;  but 
as  they  ceased  to  appear,  it  was  resolved  again  to 
stand  in  for  the  land.  On  the  19th  July  the  navi-  • 
gators  came  in  view  of  a  range  of  coast,  of  a  very 
bold  and  peculiar  character,  extending  about  forty 
miles.  It  presented  a  mountain-chain  from  three  to 
four  thousand  feet  high,  rising  at  once  from  the 
beach  in  precipitous  cliffs,  which  tenninated  in  num- 
berless peaks,  cones,  and  pyramids,  with  sharp  aiul 
rugged  rooks  everywhere  jutting  out  from  their  sid'js. 
From  one  of  the  mountains  rose  six  or  seven  tall 
parallel  chimneys,  above  each  other ;  one  of  which, 
crowned  with  two  vertical  towers,  was  called  Church 
Mount.  This  coiist  received  the  u.urie  of  Liverpool ; 
while  to  the  mountains  was  given  thtil  of  Roscoe. 
The  range  of  shore  terminated  at  Cape  Htwlgson ; 
bnyorid  which,  however,  steering  south-west,  they 
d(;scried  three  other  piomontorjes,  to  which  were 
uuccessively  given  the  names  of  Ca|)e  Lister,  Cape 


mam. 

vrnn  jnrked  out  of 
nkitif?  of  tho  boat, 
iure  it  in  the  pioper 
Idcn  turn,  inntuntly 
under  water  to  rise 
:;e  righted  itself,  the 
"Whore  is  Carrt" 
ip«mr,  hut  so  instun' 
missed  the  ol)icct, 
Tho  distress  ami 
I  the  striclccn  whale 
niself  to  effeet  liiH 
istressed,  took  the 
dhni;  the  attention 
nportan*,  interests, 
h  a  catastrophe  an 
which  occasioti  all 

arching  for  whales 
ire,  and  several  of 
s,  were  taken ;  but 
resolved  again  to 
19th  July  the  navi-  • 
of  coast,  of  a  very 
mding  about  forty 
;hain  from  three  to 

at  once  from  the 
enninated  in  num- 
8,  with  sharp  and 
ut  from  their  sitVjs. 
I  six  or  seven  tall 
ler  J  one  of  which, 
was  called  Church 
i.imeof  Liverpool; 
n  that  of  Roscoe. 
it  Cape  HcMlgson; 

south-west,  they 
s,  to  which  were 
[ya|)e  Lister,  Cape 


RKCBN1    POLAR   VOVAOKt. 


277 


flwainnon,  and  Cape  Tobin.  Hero  Mr.  Scoresby 
took,  fur  the  flrsl  time,  the  opportunity  of  liUuliuK, 
when  he  found  tiie  b«a(!h  nuich  lower  thiui  that  further 
t„-  the  north,  and  consiAing  in  a  Kieat  nuasuie  of 
loi)s<!  stony  hills.  After  some  examination,  he  camo, 
near  Capo  Swainson,  to  an  enclosure  formed  by  pa- 
rallel walls,  similai  to  those  which  the  KNtpmnaux 
eiiimtru(;t  for  liieir  summer  huts,  and  within  which 
were  hollow  structures  like  bee-hives,  such  as  they 
use  for  stores.  A  narrow  scrutiny  showed  remains 
of  fuel,  charred  drift-wood,  half-burned  moss  and 
ashes;  which  last  was  considered  as  indicaliuK  tiiu 
place  to  have  Injcn  occupied  ut  no  distant  ptuiod. 
There  were  also  found  instruments  of  wood  and 
bone,  one  of  them  tipped  with  iron. 

Kesuming  their  course  at  sea,  and  still  holding 
south-westward,  there  now  appeared  a  spucinus  mlet, 
to  which,  ia  looking  upwards,  no  termination  could 
be  seen.  Mr.  Scoresby,  while  penetrating  this  iidet, 
discovered  another  sound  br.mching  to  the  northward, 
'ii'und  the  Livefj)ool  coast,  and  supposed  to  form  it 
nilo  an  island,  'llic  opposite  shore  of  this  entr<uico 
was  named  Jameson's  Land,  from  the  eminent  i)ro- 
fessor  of  natural  history  at  Edinburgh,  lieyond 
Capo  Hooker,  tho  southern  point  of  Jameson's  Land, 
another  large  inlet  stretched  towards  the  north,  to 
whi(!h  was  given  the  name  of  Captain  Hasil  Hall.  It 
had  every  appearance  of  convertmg  J<>mcson's  Land 
also  into  an  island.  The  coast  to  the  westward  of 
this  last  approa(;h  received  the  name  of  Milne's  Land. 
Between  Cape  Leslie,  the  northern  point  of  Milne's 
Land,  and  Cape  Stevenson,  on  the  opposite  sIiore» 
the  original  opening  continued  to  stretch  into  the 
interior,  without  any  appearance  of  a  termination. 
Combining  this  observation  with  the  position  of 
Jacob's  Bight  in  the  same  latitude  on  the  western 
coast,  which  Sir  Cliarles  Giesecke  traced  to  the 
heiirht  of  150  miles,  wlicre  it  opened  into  a  sort  of 
inland  sea,  there  a|!])cared  a  strou"?  presumption,  that, 
A  u 


278 


RECENT  POLAR   VOYAGES. 


instead  of  the  continuous  mass  of  land  which  our 
maps  represent,  Greenland  composes  only  an  im- 
mense archipelago  of  islands.  To  this  great  mlet, 
the  entrance  of  which  was  bounded  by  Cape  Tobin 
on  the  north,  and  Cape  Brewster  on  the  south,  Mr. 
Scoresby  gave  the  name  of  his  fiithtr,  though  poste- 
rity will  probably  be  apt  to  associate  with  himself 
the  name  of  "  Scoresby's  Sound." 

These  coasts,  especially  that  of  Jameson  s  Land, 
were  found  richer  in  plants  and  verdure  than  any 
others  seen  by  our  navigator  within  the  Arctic  circle, 
and  almost  meriting  the  appellation  of  Gree.nland. 
The  grass  rose  in  one  place  to  a  foot  in  height,  and 
there  were  meadows  of  several  acres  that  appeared 
nearly  equal  to  any  in  England.  Nowhere  could  a 
human  being  be  discovered;  but  everywhere  there 
were  traces  of  recent  and  even  frequent  inhabitation. 
At  the  foot  of  a  range  of  cliffs,  named  after  Mr. 
Neill,  secretary  to  the  Wernerian  Society,  were 
several  hamlets  of  some  extent.  The  huts  appear 
to  have  been  winter-abodes,  not  constricted  of  snow 
slabs  like  those  of  the  Esquimaux  of  Hudson's  Bay, 
but  resembhng  those  of  the  Greenlanders,  dug  deep 
in  the  ground,  entered  by  a  long  winding  passage  or 
funnel,  and  roofed  with  a  wooden  frame  overlaid 
with  moss  and  earth.  The  mansion  had  thus  the 
appearance  of  a  slight  hillock,  and  seemed  quite  an 
underground  habitation.  Near  the  hamlets  were 
excavations  in  the  earth,  serving  as  graves,  vvhere 
implements  of  hunting,  found  along  with  the  bones 
of  the  deceased,  proved  the  prevalence  here  of  the 
general  belief  of  savage  nature,  that  the  employments 
of  man  in  the  future  life  will  exactly  resemble  those 
of  the  present.  There  was  one  wooden  coflSn,  which 
the  author  was  willing  to  believe  might  mark  a  rem- 
nant of  European  colonization.  It  was  thought  sin- 
gidar.  that  the  dwellers  on  this  coast  should  have 
heea  tecently  so  numerous,  and  yet  not  one  of  them 
left ;  but  probably  these  were  winter-quarters,  wliile 


'« 


IKS. 

land  which  our 
ses  only  an  im- 

this  great  inlet, 
d  by  Cape  Tobin 
u  the  south,  Mr. 
tr,  though  poste- 
ate  with  himself 

Jameson's  Land, 
erdure  than  any 
the  Arctic  circle, 
m  of  Greenland. 
Dt  in  height,  and 
res  that  appeared 
Nowhere  could  a 
■verywhere  there 
lent  inhabitation, 
named  after  Mr. 
n  Society,  were 
The  huts  appear 
isl^ictcd  of  snow 
if  Hudson's  Bay, 
anders,  dug  deep 
inding  passage  or 
a  frame  overlaid 
ion  had  thus  the 
I  seemed  quite  an 
le  hamlets  were 
as  graves,  Avhere 
ig  with  the  bones 
;ence  here  of  the 
,  tiie  employments 
ly  resemble  those 
odencoflSn,  which 
light  mark  a  rem- 
;  was  thought  sin- 
oast  should  have 
t  not  one  of  them 
er-quarlcrs,  wlide 


RECENT  POLAR  VOYAOES. 


279 


during  the  summer  the  natives  had  repaired  into  the 
interior,  where  they  might  find  those  land-animals 
which  retreat  to  tlie  southward  during  the  more 
rigorous  season. 

On  emerging  from  this  large  sound  and  proceeding 
southward,  Mr.  Scoresby  discovered  another  conti- 
nuous range  of  coast,  which  afforded  to  him  a  bay 
to  be  named  after  Mr.  Wallace,  and  three  capes  after 
Messrs.  Russell,  Pillans,  and  Grahr.m,  eminent  pro- 
fessors in  the  university  of  Edinburgh;  also  an 
island  named  after  Captain  Manby;  another  after 
Dr.  Henry,  and  a  cape  after  Mr.  Dalton,  two  distin- 
guished chemists  at  Manchester;  also  another  cape 
after  Dr.  John  Barclay  of  Edinburgh. 

Disappointed  as  to  any  appearance  of  whales  on 
this  coast,  Mr.  Scoresby  again  steered  out  to  sea  and 
to  the  northward.  Icebergs  surrounded  him,  amount- 
ing  at  one  place  to  the  number  of  five  hundred. 
This  course  brought  him  in  a  few  days  within  sight 
of  lands  stretching  more  northerly  than  those  recently 
surveyed,  and  connecting  them  with  the  others  which 
he  had  first  discovered.  There  appeared  two  large 
territories,  seemingly  insular,  to  which  were  given 
the  names  of  Canning  and  Traill.  Between  them 
was  a  most  spacious  inlet,  honoured  with  the  name 
of  Sir  Humphrey  Davy.  On  penetrating  this  open- 
ing there  arose  several  points  of  land,  probably 
islands,  which  afforded  a  range  of  mountains,  made 
commemorative  of  Werner,  the  celebrated  geologist ; 
a  smaller  ridge  was  assigned  to  Dr.  Fleming;  after 
which  were  appropriated  Capes  Biot,  Buache,  Carne- 
gie. He  landed  on  Traill  Island,  and  with  incredible 
toil  clambered  to  the  top  of  a  hill,  where  he  hoped 
to  have  found  a  small  plain  containing  a  few  speci- 
mens of  Arctic  vegetation;  but  this  summit  was 
steeper  than  the  most  narrowly-pitched  roof  of  a 
house,  and,  liad  not  the  opposite  side  been  a  li'tle 
smoother,  he  would  have  found  much  difRcultj  in 
sliding  down.    Beyond  Traill  Island,  and  separaiei 


mem 


RECENT    POLAR    VOYAGES. 

from  it  by  a  considerable  inlet  named  after  Lord 
Mountnorrif,  was  another  coast ;  the  pointed  extre- 
mity of  which  n^ceived  the  narhe  of  Captain  Parry. 
This  promontory  beinjf  at  no  great  distance  from 
Cape  Freycinet,  which  had  been  seen  in  the  first  sur- 
vey, there  was  thus  completed  the  observation  of  a 
raii|D;e  of  four  hundred  miles  of  coast,  formerly  known 
only  by  the  most  imperfect  rumours  and  notices,  and 
which  might  therefore  be  strictly  considered  as  a  new 
discovery. 

Mr.  Scoresby  aftenvard  approached  more  closely 
to  Canning  Island,  and  penetrated  a  sound  between 
it  and  the  main,  connected  apparently  with  Hurry's 
Inlet,  and  where  he  gave  names  to  Capes  Allan, 
Krusenstem,  and  Buch. 

Our  navigator  would  have  been  happy  to  examine 
more  of  the  Greenland  coast,  having  on  one  occasion 
had  a  fair  prospect  of  being  able  to  run  southward 
to  Cape  Farewell ;  but  the  ship  was  not  his  own,  and 
his  destination  being  to  catch  whales,  compelled  lum 
to  turn  in  another  direction.  He  had  met  hitherto 
with  much  disappointment  in  this  pursuit ;  and,  the 
season  being  far  advanced,  was  apprehensive  of 
being  obliged  to  return  with  a  deficient  cargo.  But 
on  the  15th  of  August  numerous  whales  appeared 
round  the  ship :  of  these  five  were  struck  and  three 
taken,  which  at  once  rendered  the  ship  fulUJishtd, 
and  placed  him  among  the  successful  adventurers 
of  the  year.  He  could  return,  therefore,  with 
satisfactory  feelings ;  and  the  pleasure  of  the  voyage 
homeward  was  only  alloyed  by  the  occurrence  of 
a  violent  storm  off  Lewis,  in  which  Sam  Chambers, 
one  of  the  most  esteemed  of  his  sailors,  was  washed 
overboard. 

To  these  discoveries  of  Mr.  Scoresby  some  addi- 
tions were  made  next  year  by  Captain  Clavering, 
who  was  employed  by  the  Admiralty  to  convey  Cap- 
tain Sabine  to  different  stations  in  the  Arctic  sea,  for 
the  purpose  of  making  observatio'ns  on  the  compara- 


i 


OES. 

lamcd  after  Lord 
the  pointed  extre- 
of  Captain  Parry. 
;at  distance  from 
len  in  the  first  8ur- 
observation  of  a 
t,  formerly  known 
s  and  notices,  and 
onsideredasanew 

;hed  more  closely 

a  sound  between 

intly  with  Hurry's 

I  to  Capes  Allan, 

happy  to  examine 
ig  on  one  occasion 
to  run  southward 
is  not  his  own,  and 
ies,  compelled  liim 
3  had  met  hitherto 
I  pursuit ;  and,  the 
I  apprehensive  of 
icient  cargo.  But 
1  whales  appeared 
e  struck  and  three 
[le  B)up  Jidl^shed, 
essful  adventurers 
n,  therefore,  with 
sure  of  the  voyage 
the  occurrence  of 
eh  Sam  Chambers, 
ailors,  was  waslicd 

oresby  some  addi- 
^aptain  Clavering, 
dty  to  convey  Cap- 
the  Arctic  sea,  for 
08  on  the  compara^ 


RECENT  POLAR  VOYAGES. 


281 


tive  length  of  the  pendulum  as  affected  by  the  prin- 
ciple of  attraction. 

Captain  Clavering  sailed  on  the  ."Jd  May  (1833), 
and  on  the  2d  June  arrived  at  Hammcrfest,  where  he 
landed  Captain  Sabine  with  the  tents  and  instru- 
ments. The  observiitions  being  competed,  he  sailed 
on  the  83d,  readied  the  northern  coast  of  Si)itzber 
gen,  and  fixed  on  a  small  island  between  Vogel  Sang 
and  Cloven  CliH"  for  farther  scientific  operations. 
While  Captain  Sabine  was  (iiiployed  upon  the  island, 
he  endeavoured  to  push  into  a  more  northern  lati- 
tude ;  but  after  great  exertion,  he  could  not  reach 
beyond  80°  20'.  Accompanied  by  the  former,  whom 
he  had  now  rejoined,  and  whose  observations  were 
completed,  he  left  this  coast  on  the  22d  July,  and 
steered  for  the  eastern  shores  of  Greenland,  of  which 
he  came  in  view  on  the  5th  August.  The  scene  ap- 
peared the  most  desolate  he  had  ever  beheld.  The 
mountains  rose  to  the  height  of  several  thousand 
feet,  without  a  vestige  of  vegetation,  or  the  appear- 
ance of  any  living  creature  on  the  earth  or  in  the 
air.  Even  the  drenry  waste  of  Spitzbergen  appeared 
a  paradise  to  tlii*.  He  landed  Captain  Sabine  and 
the  scientific  apparatus  on  two  islands  detached 
from  the  eastern  shore  of  the  continent,  which  he 
called  the  Pendulum  Islands,  and  of  which  the  out- 
ermost point  is  marked  by  a  bold  headland,  rising  to 
the  height  of  3000  feet. 

While  Captain  Sabine  was  employed  in  his  course 
of  observations.  Captain  Clavering  surveyed  a  part 
of  the  coast  which  lay  to  the  northward,  being  the 
first  which  Mr.  Scoresby  saw.  It  was  at  some  dis- 
tance, with  an  icy  barrier  lnteq)osed ;  but  was  found 
indented  with  deep  and  spacious  bays,  suspected 
even  to  penetrate  so  far  as  to  convert  all  this  range 
of  coast  into  a  cluster  of  large  islands.  The  inlet, 
which  the  former  navigator  had  assigned  to  Sir 
Walter  Scott,  was  believed  by  Clavering  to  be 
that  discovered  by  the  Dutch  mariner  Gale  Iiamk<;s ; 
A  u  2 


MS 


HPCENT   POtAR  V0TAOE8, 


but  we  have  not  ventured  to  remove  this  last  from 
the  more  northerly  position  fixed  by  Mr.  Scoresby. 
Other  openini^  which  occurred  in  proceeding  to- 
wards  the  north  were  named,  by  the  Captain.  Fos- 
tor's  Bay,  Ardincaple,  and  Roseneath  Inlets;  and 
he  saw  bold  and  high  land  still  stretching  in  this  di- 
rection as  far  as  the  seventy-sixth  degree  of  latitude. 
In  regard  to  the  natives.  Captain  Clavering  was 
more  fortunate  than  his  predecessor,  who  saw  only 
their  deserted  habitations.  On  landing  at  a  point 
on  the  southern  coast  of  Sir  Walter  Scott's  Inlet, 
he  received  intelligence  of  Esquimaux  having  been 
Seen  at  the  distance  of  a  mile,  and  hastened  thither 
with  one  of  his  officers.  The  natives  on  seeing 
them  immediately  ran  to  the  top  of  some  rocks ; 
but  the  English  advanced,  made  fnendly  signs,  depo- 
sited a  mirror  and  a  pair  of  worsted  mittens  at  the- 
foot  of  the  precipice,  and  then  retired.  The  Esqui." 
maux  came  down,  took  these  articles,  and  earned 
them  away  to  the  place  of  their  retreat ;  but  they 
soon  allowed  the  strangers  to  approach  and  accost 
them,  though  their  .hands  when  shaken  were  found 
to  tremble  violently.  By  degrees  confidence  was  es- 
tablished, and  thev  followed  the  English  to  their 
own  tent,  five  feet  high  and  twelve  in  circumference, 
composed  of  wood  and  whalebone.  Their  aspect 
and  conformations;  their  boats  and  implements,  ex- 
actly corresponded  to  those  observed  by  Captains 
Parry  and  Lyon  in  Hudson's  Bay.  A  child,  after 
being  diligently  cleared  of  its  thick  coating  of  dirt 
and  oil,  was  found  to  have  a  tawny  copper-coloured 
skin.  The  natives  were  astonished  and  alarmed  be- 
yond mea.sure  by  the  effect  of  firearms.  A  seal 
being  shot,  one  of  them  was  sent  to  fetch  it.  He 
examined  it  all  over  till  he  found  the  hole  made  by 
the  ball,  when,  thruf^'ing  his  finger  into  it,  he  set  up 
a  shout  of  astonishment,  dancing  and  capering  in 
the  most  extravagant  manner.  Another  was  pre- 
vailed upon  to  fire  a  pistol ;  but  instantly  on  hearing 
the  report,  started  and  run  back  into  the  tent. 


1. 


OES. 

ve  this  last  from 
)y  Mr.  Scoresby. 
n  proceeding  to- 
the  Captain.  Fos- 
eath  Inlets;  and 
etching  in  this  di- 
legree  of  latitude, 
in  Clavering  was 
)r,  who  saw  only 
nding  at  a  point 
ter  Scott's  Inlet, 
aux  having  been 
hastened  thither 
atives  on  seeing 
of  some  rocks ; 
indly  signs,  depo- 
3d  mittens  at  ther 
red.  The  KaqaU 
cles,  and  carried 
■etreat;  but  they 
roach  and  accost 
iken  were  found 
onfidence  was  03- 
English  to  their 
n  circumference, 
3.  Their  aspect 
implements,  ex- 
vedby  Captains 
'.  A  child,  after 
k  coating  of  dirt 
copper-coloured 
and  alarmed  be- 
earms.  A  seal 
to  fetch  it.  He 
he  hole  made  by 
into  it,  he  set  up 
and  capering  in 
nother  was  pre- 
anlly  on  hearing 
a  the  tent. 


RECENT  POLAR   V0VA0E8. 


283 


The  observations  were  not  completed  till  the  be- 
ginning of  September,  when  the  season  was  too  late 
to  allow  Captain  Clavering  to  gratify  his  wish  of 
making  a  run  to  the  northward.  Nor.  did  he  extri- 
cate liimself  from  the  ice  without  some  severe 
shocks;  yet,  after  spending  six  weeks  at  Dron- 
theim,  he  entered  the  Thames  in  the  middle  of  De- 
cember. 

We  have  departed  somewhat  from  the  regular 
order  of  time,  for  the  purpose  of  giving  in  a  con- 
nected view  the  observations  and  discoveries  of  Mr: 
Scoresby,  and  the  additions  to  them  by  Captain  Cla- 
vering. Meantime,  however,  another  grand  attempt 
had  been  made  to  explore  the  depths  of  the  Polar 
sea.  Combined  with  Captain  Ross's  mission  in 
search  of  the  north-west  passage,  the  Dorothea  and 
Trent  were  placed  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Buchan,  with  the  view  of  pushing  direct  to  the  Pole, 
and  endeavouring  not  only  to  reach  that  grand  boun- 
dary, but  to  pass  across  it  to  India,— a  voyage  which, 
from  the  relative  position  of  these  two  parts  of  the 
globe,  would  have  been  much  shorter  by  this  route 
than  by  any  other.  It  was  contended  by  the  sup- 
porters of  this  undertaking,  that  the  failures  of  Hud- 
son, Fotherby,  and  Phipps  had  occurred  in  conse- 
quence of  their  being  entangled  in  the  winding  shores 
and  bays  of  the  northern  coast  of  Spitzbergen ;  that 
the  production  of  ice  took  place  chiefly  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  land :  and  that,  by  keeping  decidedly  in 
the  midst  of  the  ocean-channel,  navigators  would, 
instead  of  a  boundless  and  unbroken  field,  find  an 
open  and  navigable  sea. 

Captain  Buchan  having  set  out  eaily  in  the  season 
of  1818,  came  on  the  97th  May  in  view  of  Cherie 
Island.  Without  pausing  there,  he  stretched  along 
the  western  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  to  the  eightieth 
degree  of  north  latitude,  where  he  encountered  a  se- 
vere storm,  which  separated  his  vessels  for  a  time, 
and  obliged  them  to  seek  shelter  in  Magdalena  Bay. 


m 


i.Miiwi,im. 


284 


KECEKT  POLAR  VOTAOSa. 


On  the  10th  June  he  met  several  Greenland  diips, 
and  was  informed  by  the  maaters,  that  in  the  great 
sea  to  tlie  westwarcf,  to  which  he  had  looked  with 
the  greatest  hope,  tiie  ice  was  completely  impene- 
trable. He  determined,  therefore,  to  turn  Hakluyt's 
Headland,  and  proceed  nortii-eastward  in  the  track 
ultimately  followed  by  Lord  Mulgrave.  On  his  way 
he  was  soon  completely  beset,  being  hemmed  in  by 
fields  of  ice  ten  or  twelve  miles  in  circumference, 
amid  which  icebergs  rose  in  the  rudest  and  most  fan- 
tastic forms,  appearing  like  specks  in  a  boundless 
plain  of  alabaster.  On  the  2(!th  June  the  navigators 
reached  Fair  Haven,  situated  between  Vogel  Sang 
and  Cloven  Cliff.  Being  detained  here  for  some 
time,  they  found  numerous  herds  of  the  walnis  and 
the  deer,  and  killed,  after  hard  combats,  several  of 
the  former,  one  weighing  a  ton ;  while  of  the  latter 
they  despatched  with  ease  from  forty-five  to  fifty, 
the  average  weight  of  which  was  ISOlbs.  Being  at 
length  unable  to  move  forward,  they  reached  the  la- 
titude of  SO**  32',  where  they  were  beset  for  three 
weeks.  On.  the  89th  July,  the  Dorothea  was  again 
brought  into  open  water ;  but  on  the  30th  she  was 
exposed  to  a  tremendous  gale,  which  blew  her 
upon  the  main  body  of  the  ice,  with  a  force  which 
she  was  unable  to  resist.  In  this  awful  situation, 
the  crew,  having  no  time  to  deliberate,  determined  to 
tirni  the  helm  so  that  the  wind  might  drive  the  ship's 
head  into  the  ice,  where,  it  was  possible,  they  might 
find  a  secure  lodgement  even  amid  this  feanul  tem- 
pest. The  helm  was  so  placed ;  and  a  solenm  awe 
impressed  the  mariners  during  the  few  moments 
which  were  to  decide,  whether  the  Dorothea  was  to 
be  safely  moored,  or  to  be  dashed  to  pieces.  She 
struck  with  a  terrible  shock,  which  was  repeated 
frequently  in  the  course  of  half  an  hour.  By  that 
time  she  had  forced  her  way  more  than  twice  her 
own  length  into  the  body  of  the  ice,  where  she 
remained  immoveably  fixed.     By-and-by  the  gal9 


OES. 


nFCBNT    POLAR  VOTAOES. 


285 


i  Greenland  sliips, 
,  that  in  the  great 
I  had  looked  with 
tmpletely  impene- 
to  turn  Hakluyt's 
tvvard  in  the  track 
ave.  On  his  way 
ng  hemmed  in  by 
in  circumference, 
dest  and  most  Tan- 
ks in  H  boundless 
me  the  navigators 
ween  Vogcl  Sang 
;d  here  for  some 
of  the  walrus  and 
mbats,  several  of 
while  of  the  latter 
orty-five  to  fifty, 
120lbs.  Being  at 
ey  reached  the  la- 
ire  beset  for  three 
)rothea  was  again 
I  the  30th  she  was 
which  blew  her 
ith  a  force  which 
is  awful  situation, 
ate,  determined  to 
ht  drive  the  ship's 
issible,  they  might 
d  this  feanul  tem- 
and  a  solenm  awe 
the  few  momenta 
B  Dorothea  was  to 
id  to  pieces.  She 
ich  was  repeated 
in  hour.  By  that 
re  than  twice  her 
e  ice,  where  she 
^-and-by  the  gal9 


moderated,  and  she  was  again  brought  into  an 
open  sea ;  but  she  had  been  so  shattered,  and  the 
water  entered  by  such  nujnerous  leaks,  that  scarcely 
any  effort  could  preserve  her  from  sinking.  Next 
morning,  however,  being  fine,  the  crew  with  much 
dilficultyworkedlierround  to  the  harbour  of  Smee- 
renberg.  There  she  wiis  so  far  refitted  as  to  be  able, 
in  the  beginning  of  September,  to  take  the  sea,  and 
on  the  10th  October  came  in  view  of  the  coast  of 
England,  near  Flamborough  Head. 

No  farther  attempt  was  made  to  reach  the  Pole 
in  »/wp» ;  but,  after  a  certain  interval,  a  plan  was  de- 
vised to  push  towards  that  grand  boundary  in  vehicles 
wafted  over  the  frozen  surface  of  the  ocean.  It  was 
Mr.  Scoresby  by  whom  this  scheme  was  first  sug- 
gested. In  a  memoir  read  to  the  Wemerian  Society, 
he  endeavoured  to  prove  that  such  a  journey  was 
neither  so  visionary  nor  so  very  perilous  as  it  might 
appear  to  those  who  were  unacquainted  with  the 
Arctic  regions.  The  Polar  Sea  in  some  meridians 
would,  he  doubted  not,  present  one  continued  sheet 
of  ice ;  the  inequalities  of  which,  if  tolerably  smooth, 
would  oppose  no  insurmountable  barrier.  Intervals 
of  open  water  would  be  more  troublesome ;  yet  the 
vehicle,  being  made  capable  of  serving  as  a  boat, 
might  either  sail  across,  or  make  a  circuit  round 
them.  This  conveyance,  he  remarked,  ought  to  be 
a  sledge  formed  of  those  light  materials  used  by  the 
Esquimaux  in  the  construction  of  their  boats,  and 
drawn  either  by  reindeer  or  dogs.  The  former  ani- 
mals are  so  fleet,  that,  in  favourable  circumstances, 
they  might  go  and  return  in  a  fortnight,  while  the 
best  dog-team  would  require  five  or  six  weeks ;  the 
latter,  however,  would  be  more  tractable,  and  better 
fitted  for  skimming  over  thin  or  broken  ice.  Though 
the  cold  would  be  very  severe,  yet  as  no  very 
alarming  increase  occurred  between  the  seventieth 
and  eightieth  degrees  of  latitude,  there  was  little 
ground  to  apprehend  that  in  the  other  ten  degrees. 


IT' 


980 


RECENT   POLAR  T0YA0E8. 


roachinjf  to  the  Pole,  it  shoukl  become  insupportable 
For  provisions  wore  recommended  portable  soups, 
potted  meats,  and  othci  substances,  which,  with  little 
weight,  contained  iiiiich  nourishment. 

These  BUKKtsitions  did  not  for  a  considerable  time 
attract  attention  ;  but  at  length  Captain  Fairy,  after 
his  three  brilliant  voyages  to  the  north-west,  finding 
reason  to  suspect  that  his  farther  progress  in  that 
direction  was  hopeless,  turned  his  enterprising  views 
elsewhere,  and  conceived  the  ambition  of  penetrating 
over  the  frozen  sea  to  tlie  Pole.  Combining  Mr. 
Scoresby's  ideas  with  his  own  observations,  and  with 
a  series  of  reflections  derived  by  Captain  Franklin 
from  his  extensive  experience.  Captain  Parry  formed 
and  submitted  ^o  the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty  the  plan 
of  an  expedition  over  the  Polar  ice.  Their  Lord- 
ships, having  referred  this  proposal  to  the  council  and 
committee  of  the  lloyal  Society,  and  received  a  favour- 
able report  as  to  the  advantages  which  science  might 
derive  from  such  a  journey,  applied  themselves  with 
their  usual  alacrity  to  supply  the  Captain  with  every 
thing  which  could  assist  him  in  this  bold  undertaking. 
The  Hecla  was  employed  to  carry  him  as  far  as  a 
ship  could  go,  and  with  her  were  sent  two  boats,  to 
be  dragged  or  navigated,  according  to  circumstances, 
along  the  unknown  and  desolate  expanse  between 
Spitzbergen  and  the  Pole.  These  boats,  being  built 
of  siHJcessive  ihin  planks  of  ash,  fir,  and  oak,  with 
sheets  of  water-proof  canvass  and  stout  felt  inter- 
posed, united  the  greatest  possible  degree  of  strength 
and  elasticity.  The  interior  was  made  capacious  and 
flat-flooied,  somewhat  as  in  troop-boats,  and  a  runner 
attached  to  each  side  of  the  keel  fitted  them  to  be 
drawn  along  the  ice  like  a  sledge.  Wheels  were 
also  taken  onboard,  in  case  their  use  should  be  found 
practicable. 

The  adventurers  started  early.  On  the  27th  March, 
1827,  they  were  towed  down  the  river  by  the  Comet 
steamboat,  and  on  the  4th  April  weighed  from  the 


OCR. 

me  insimportablc. 
d  portable  soaps, 
which,  with  little 
int. 

considerable  time 
[)tain  Fairy,  after 
orth-west,  findiiifr 
proKTCRS  in  that 
interprisinjy  views 
ion  of  penetrating 

Combining  Mr. 
•vations,  and  with 
Captain  Franklin 
tain  Parry  formed 
idmiralty  the  plan 
ce.  Their  Lord- 
to  the  council  and 
receivedafavour- 
ich  science  might 
I  themselves  with 
iptain  with  every 
bold  undertaking, 
him  as  far  as  a 
ent  two  boats,  to 
\,o  circumstances, 
Bxpanse  between 
)oat8,  being  built 
fir,  and  oak,  with 

stout  felt  inter- 
egree  of  strength 
ide  capacious  and 
lats,  and  a  runner 
itted  them  to  be 
'..  Wheels  were 
e  should  be  found 

n  the  27th  March, 
rev  by  the  Comet 
cighed  from  the 


nrcENT  rotAR  voyaoeb. 


2^7 


Nore  On  the  19th  they  entered  the  fine  harbour 
of  Hammerfest  in  Norway,  wliere  they  ri'mained  two 
or  tliree  weeks,  and  took  on  board  eight  reindeer, 
with  a  quantity  of  picked  moss  for  their  provender. 
Quitting  Norway  on  the  lllh  May,  they  soon  found 
themselves  among  the  ice,  and  met  a  number  of 
whale-ships.  On  the  13th  they  were  in  view  of 
Hakluyt's  Headland,  when  the  Captain  endeavwired 
to  push  his  way  to  the  north-east  in  the  track  of 
Phii)j)s.  The  vessel,  however,  was  soon  (completely 
beset,  and  even  enclosed  in  a  large  floe,  which 
carried  her  slowly  eastward  alone  with  it.  As  every 
day  was  now  ah  irretrievable  loss.  Captain  Parry 
became  impatient  in  the  extreme,  and  formed  a  nlan 
to  push  off  northward,  leaving  the  ship  to  find  a  har- 
bour for  herself,  where  he  trusted  on  his  return  to 
trace  her  out.  But  the  survey  of  the  route  in  the 
proposed  direction  was  most  discouraging.  In  con- 
s<;(]ueiicc  of  some  violent  agitation  in  the  preceding 
season,  the  ice  had  been  piled  up  in  innumerable 
hummocks,  causing  the  sea  to  resemble  a  stone-ma- 
son's yard,  except  that  it  contained  masses  six  times 
larger.  This  state  of  the  surface,  which  would  have 
rendered  it  impossible  to  drag  the  boats  more  than  a 
mile  in  the  day,  was  found  to  prevail  for  a  considera- 
ble space  with  little  interruption.  The  current  mean- 
time continued  to  carry  thi  ship,  with  the  floe  to 
Avhich  it  was  attached,  slowly  to  the  eastward,  till  it 
brouglit  her  into  shoals  in  the  vicinity  of  ice,  where 
she  (T-ounded  in  six  fathoms ;  after  which  Captain 
. .  'v  felt  it  quite  out  of  the  Question  to  leave  her 
till  she  was  lodged  in  a  secure  harbour.  He  worked 
on  J'radually,  however,  to  the  east  and  north,  passing 
Waiden  Island,  and  obtaining  a  full  view  of  the 
Seven  Islands ;  but  here  the  sea  was  covered  with 
one  unbroken  land  floe  attached  to  all  the  shores, 
which  destroyed  every  hope  of  finding  a  harbour 
among  these  islands.  No  choice  was  then  left  but 
to  steer  back  for  the  coast  of  Spitzbergcn,  where  he 


988 


MKCENT   POLAR   VOYAGES. 


unexpectedly  lighted  on  a  very  excellent  harbour, 
naniod  by  hiin  Hecla  Cove,  and  which  proved  lo  be 
part  of  the  bay  to  which  an  old  Dutch  chart  had 
Kiven  the  name  of  Treurcnbertf.  It  was  now  tho 
20tii  uf  June,  and  the  best  of  the  Hoasou  had  been 
Bpent  in  beating  backwards  and  forwards  on  tlioso 
icQ-bound  shores ;  he  tlierefore  resolved,  witJiuut 
farther  delay,  to  prosecute  the  main  object  of  his 
enterprise.  Scarcely  hoping  to  reach  the  Pole,  he 
determined,  at  all  events,  to  pusli  as  far  nortii  us 
possible.  He  took  with  liiin  seventy  one  days'  pro 
vision,  consisting  of  pcmmiciui,  (beef  diried  smd 
pounded),  biscuit,  cocoa,  and  rum.  Spirits  of  wine, 
as  the  most  portable  and  concentrated  fuel,  was 
alone  used  for  that  purpose.  There  were  provided 
changes  of  warm  clothing,  tliick  fur-dresses  lor  sleep- 
ing in,  and  strong  Esquimaux  boots.  The  reindeer 
and  also  the  wheels  were  given  up  at  once  as  altogether 
useless  in  tho  present jrugged  state  of  the  ice;  but 
four  sledges,  constructed  out  of  tho  Esquimaux 
snow-shoes,  proved  very  convenient  for  dragging 
along  the  bafgngu. 

On  tho  2'2d  June  the  expeditionary  party  quitted 
tho  ship,  and  betook  Ukeniselvea  to  the  boats  amid 
the  cheers  of  their  associates.  Although  all  the 
shores  were  still  frozen,  they  had  an  open  sea,  calm 
and  smooth  as  a  mirror,  through  which  they  sailed 
slowly  but  agreeably  with  their  loaded  vessels. 
After  proceeding  thus  for  about  eighty  miles,  tljey 
reached,  not  as  they  had  hoped,  the  main  body  of  the 
ice,  but  a  surface  intermediate  between  ice  and  water. 
This  C3uld  neither  be  walked  nor  sailed  over,  but 
was  to  He  passed  by  the  two  methods  alternately. 
However,  on  such  a  strange  and  perilous  plan  it  be^ 
hooved  them  to  land,  in  order  to  commence  their 
laborious  and  monotonous  journey  towards  tlie  Pole. 

Captain  Parry  describes  in  an  interesting  munncv 
the  smgular  mode  of  Inivclling  to  which  they  were 
coini)elled  to  adhere.    The  fast  step  was  lo  lunvert 


loeb. 

txcellont  harbour, 

^lich  proved  to  be 

Dutch  uhurt  h<id 

It  was  now  thu 

Houaou  had  beoii 

urwurds  on  thesu 

rectolved,  without 

laui  object  of  his 

lacli  thu  Pole,  ]m 

i  as  far  nortii  as 

ity  one  days'  pro 

(beef  dried  iuid 

Spirits  of  wine, 

ntrated  fuel,  was 

re  were  provided 

-dresses  for  shiep- 

tR.    The  reindeer 

once  as  altogether 

)  of  the  ice ;  but 

the  Esquimaux 

ent  for  dragging 

lary  party  quitted 
>  the  boats  amid 
Although  all  the 
in  ouen  sea,  calm 
rhich  they  sailed 
'  loaded  vessels, 
ghty  miles,  they 
mam  body  of  the 
)en  ice  ana  water* 
sailed  over,  but 
hods  alteniately. 
rilouB  plan  it  be^ 
commence  their 
lowards  the  Pole, 
teresting  manner 
which  they  were 
p  was  to  couveit 


RKHnCNT  POLAR  TOYAORB 


989 


night  into  day ;  to  bcfftn  their  journey  in  the  evenintf 
and  end  it  in  the  mominfir.  Thus,  while  they  had 
quite  enough  of  light,  they  avoided  the  snow*glarO 
nnd  the  bliiidnnss  which  it  UNually  produces ;  they 
iiad  the  ice  drier  and  harder  beneath  them;  and  they 
enjoyed  the  greatest  warmth,  when  it  was  most 
wanted,  during  the  period  of  sleep :  they  were  only 
n  little  annoyed  by  frequent  and  denser  fogs.  Thus 
their  notions  of  night  and  day  became  inverted. 
They  rose  in  what  they  called  the  morning,  but 
wliich  was  really  late  in  the  evening,  and  having 
performed  their  devotions,  breakfasted  on  warm  co« 
coa  and  biscuit.  They  then  drew  on  their  boots, 
usually  either  wet  or  hard  frozen ;  and  which,  though 
perfectly  dried,  would  have  been  equally  soaked  in 
fifteen  minutes.  The  party  then  travelled  five  or  six 
hours,  and  a  little  after  midnight  stopped  to  dine. 
Tliey  now  performed  an  equal  journey  in  what  was 
called  the  afternoon ;  and  In  the  evening,  that  is,  at 
tin  advanced  morning  hour,  halted  as  for  the  night. 
They  then  applied  themselves  to  obtain  rest  and 
comfort,  put  on  dry  stockings  and  fur-boots,  cooked 
something  warm  for  supper,  smoked  their  pipes,  told 
over  their  exploits,  and,  forgetting  the  toils  of  the 
day,  enjoyed  an  interval  of  ease  and  gayety.  Then, 
wrapping  themselves  in  their  ftir-cloaks,  they  lay 
down  in  the  boat,  rather  too  close  together  perhaps, 
but  with  very  tolerable  comfort.  The  sound  or  a 
bugle  roused  them  at  night  to  their  breakfast  of 
cocoa,  and  to  a  repetition  of  the  same  round. 

The  progress  for  several  days  was  most  slow  and 
laborious.  Thefloes  were  small,  exceedingly  rough, 
and  with  interposed  lanes  of  water,  which  could 
not  be  crossed  without  unloading  the  bo;its.  It  wa« 
commonly  necessary  to  convey  these  and  the  stores 
by  two  stages,  when  the  sailors,  being  obliged  to  re- 
turn for  the  second  portion,  had  to  go  three  times 
over  the  same  ground  ;  sometimes  they  were  obliged 
(o  make  three  stages,  and  thus  to  pass  over  it  five 


lpli» 


990 


RECENT    eomt.  VOTAOKi. 


timet.  Tliore  fi  '1  as  much  ram  (l«  they  had  expo- 
ricrK^ed  durini(  ii,  whiile  cuurHu  of  spven  yean 
ill  11  lower  liititiKle.  A  ^r'^U  dnsil  of  the  i( (i  over 
whicli  they  triivellcd  wiu  formed  into  numberlcsa 
im)((uhir  iietMlle-liito  eryutals,  MtaiidiiiK  upwurdH,  and 
|)oint»'d  ttt  both  ( iuln.  Tlio  horizonttti  surface  of 
tiiiH  part  had  Moinetinieii  t>ie  appcianuiee  of  (crueniith 
velvet,  while  the  vertical  wciionH,  when  ia  a  com. 
jKU't  state,  renoMihlod  the  inoNt  beautiful  i»atin-«nar, 
and  aubtmtos  when  Roi'ig  to  pieircM.  'I'henc  iKiculiar 
weHgeH,  it  was  supposed,  were  produeed  l)y  the  drops 
«f  rain  piereinj?  throuKli  the  sup«;riloiitl  ice.  Tho 
needles  at  first  afforded  tolerably  firm  fixHinK;  hut 
becoming  always  more  loose  and  moveable  as  thu 
Bummur  advanced,  they  at  last  cut  the  lioots  and 
feet  as  if  thev  had  been  penknives.  Soinctiinei,  too, 
there  arose  nummocks  so  elevated  and  rugged  that 
the  boats  could  only  be  iHirne  over  them,  in  a  di- 
rection almost  i)erpendicular,  by  those  formidable 
operations  called  "a  standing  pull  and  a  bowlino 
haul."  The  result  of  all  this  was,  that  a  severe  ex- 
ertion of  five  or  six  hours  did  not  usually  produce  a 
progress  p(  above  a  mile  and  a  half  or  two  miles, 
and  that  in  a  winding  direction ;  so  that,  after  having 
entered  upon  the  ice  on  the  a4th  June,  in  latitude  8l 
degrees  13  minutes,  the3r  found  themselves  on  the  Si9th 
only  in  81  degrees  23  minutes,  having  thus  made  only 
about  eight  miles  of  direct  northing.  Captain  Parry 
Boon  relinquished  all  hope  of  reaching  the  Polej 
however  it  was  resolved  to  push  on  as  far  as  possilde. 
The  party  came  at  length  to  somewhat  smoother 
ice  and  larger  floes,  and  made  rather  better  progress. 
While  the  boats  were  landing  on  one  of  these,  the 
commander  and  Lieutenant  Ross  usually  pushed  on 
to  the  other  end  to  ascertain  the  best  course.  On 
reaching  the  extremity,  they  commonly  mounted 
the  largest  hummock,  whence  they  beheld  a  scene  of 
which  nothing  could  exceed  the  dreariness.  The  eye 
rested  only  upon  ice-  -uid  a  sky  hid  in  dense  and  dis- 


ITAOK4. 

!)s  they  had  expo- 
se of  wven  yoani 
"il  of  the  i(  (I  over 
•1  into  tiumberlcsn 
iiiliiii;  upwunlM,  anil 
rizunttti  Hiirfacn  of 
[iiiriincc  of  (('■L'enisth 
iH,  whun  in  a  ctrm* 
leautiful  Hatin-imir, 
!M.  'I'hcnc  iieculiar 
aduced  hy  the  dropH 
p»;rfloiiil  ice.  Th« 
y  tirni  fiM)tinK ;  hut 
ul  moveable  as  thu 
cut  the  iHMits  and 
I.  Soinctiinei,  too, 
ed  and  rugiored  that 
iver  them,  in  a  di- 
y  those  formidable 
)ull  and  a  bowline 
8,  that  a  severe  ex- 
t  usually  produ(;n  a 
half  or  two  miles, 
10  that,  after  having 
June,  in  latitude  81 
imselves  on  the  t29th 
ving  thus  made  only 
ng.  Captain  Parry 
eachingf  the  Pole; 
>n  as  far  as  possilde. 
:)mewhat  smoother 
her  better  progrress. 
1  one  of  tnese,  the 
I  usually  pushed  on 
3  best  course.  On 
ommonly  mounted 
y  beheld  a  scene  of 
wariness.  The  eye 
id  iu  dense  and  dia- 


1IRCT.NT    rOLAIl   VOVAOKi. 


201 


mnl  foKK.    Amid  this  •cone  of  inanimate  desolatioiw 
iie  vi«w  of  a  pussinK  biril,  or  of  i<-e  in  any  jKiculiar 
shape,  excited  an  intense  interest,  which  tliry  .«uiled 
to  recollect;  b\it  they  were  principally  cheered  by 
viewinK  the  two  Imats  in  the  distanfrc,  tlie  moving 
fi(()ircs.   of  the  men  wimluiR    with  their    (dcdges 
nnionn  the  hununocks,  and  by  hcsiiinK  the  sound  of 
human  voices,  which  broke  the  nilence  of  this  fro- 
Tcn    wilderness.     The    rain,    mid    the    incrciiwngr 
warmth  of  the  season,  indeed  gradually  softetuid 
the  ice  and  snow,  but  this  only  caused  the  travellers 
to  sink  deep  at  every  step.     At  one  place  they  sunk 
repeatedly  three  feet,  and  retpiired  three  hours  to 
,nake  a  hundred  yards.     As  they  halted  on  the  eve- 
ninff  of  the  6th  July,  the  margm  of  the  floe  broke, 
and  a  bag  of  co<!oa  fell  into  tiie  sea,  but  luckily 
Rlijfhted  on  a  tonjnic  of  ice  and  v  is  taken  up.*    At 
the  same  time  pools  and  even  In!  is  were  formed  on 
the  froxen  surface ;  and  though  the  peculiar  blue  ot 
these  HuperKlacial  lakes  formed  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  tints  in  nature,  this  was  a  poor  compensa- 
tion for  bein(?  obliged  to  make  a  (preat  rfcJowr  in 
order  to  avoid  them.     Still,  amid  all  these  diffi- 
culties, the  floes  became  on  the  whole  larRer,  the 
lanes  of  water  longer,  and  the  day's  Journey  was 
gradually  extended.    Having  attained  82  degrees 
40  minutes,  they  began  to  hold  it  as  a  fixed  {wint 
that  their  cflTorts  would  be  crowned  with  success  so 
far  as  to  reach  the  eighty-third  parallel.    This  hope 
seemed  converted  into  certainty,  when,  on  the  88d 
they  had  travelled  seventeen  miles,  the  greater  pro- 
portion of  which  was  directly  north.    But  there  now 
occurred  an  unfavourable  change,  which  baffled  all 
their  toils  and  liopes.    Down  to  the  19th  the  wind  had 
blown  steadily  from  the«outh,  and,  without  aiding 

•  Itmty  be  menllonnd ,  thm  lh«  coiilenlii  of  ihepucNliie  here  »IIuded 
to  were  found  W  b«  quite  uninjured  after  lliU  rude  '"•m""'""' •.?!?' 
IMIIon  lucrlbed  to  "  MucklnUwIi't  wnier  proof  canva«,  -«"  »'"''*«• 
lure  which,  u>  tecurity  fur  jen-iutre*,  li  uiantioDed  by  (/aptUll  rWTf 
ki  IcriiM  of  Um  hlgbwl  eommeiuUUoii. 


-.  yit;i'.SiiS&MS;7XSiiiaK.tt 


203 


RKCENT   POLAR  V0YA0E8. 


them  much,  had  at  least  checked  the  usual  movti 
ment  of  the  ice  in  that  direction.  On  this  last  dav, 
however,  a  -Jteady  breeze  sprung  up  from  the  north, 
which  opened,  indeed,  a  few  lanes  of  water;  but 
this  it  was  feared  could  not  compensate  for  the  de- 
gree in  which  it  could  not  fail  to  cause  the  loos- 
ened masses  of  ice,  with  the  travellers  upon  them, 
to  drift  to  the  southward.  This  effect  was  soon  found 
to  take  place  to  an  extent  still  more  alarming  than 
had  been  at  first  anticipated.  Instead  often  or  twelve 
miles,  which  they  reckoned  themselves  to  have  tra- 
velled northward  on  the  82d,  they  were  found  not  to 
have  made  quite  four.  This  most  discouraging  fact 
was  at  first  concealed  from  the  sailors,  who  only  re- 
marked, that  they  were  very  long  of  getting  to  this 
83d  degree.  The  expedition  was  now  fast  approach- 
ing the  utmost  limits  of  animal  hfe.  During  their 
long  journey  of  the  22d  they  saw  only  two  seals,  a 
fish,  and  a  bird.  On  the  84th  only  one  solitary  rotga 
was  heard;  and  it  might  be  presumed  that,  from 
thence  to  the  Pole,  all  would  be  a  mighty  scene  of  si- 
lence and  solitude.  The  adventurers  pushtd  on  with- 
out  hesitation  beyond  the  realms  of  life ;  but  now, 
after  three  days  of  bad  travelling,  when  their  reckon- 
ing gave  them  ten  or  eleven  miles  of  progr^.ss,  observa- 
tion showed  them  to  be  four  miles  south  of  the  posi- 
tion which  they  occupied  on  the  evening  of  the  22d. 
The  drifting  of  the  snow-fields  had  in  that  time  car 
ried  them  fourteen  miles  backward.  This  was  too 
much.  To  reach  even  the  eighty-third  degree,  though 
only  twenty  miles  distant,  was  now  beyond  the 
Umits  of  hope.  To  ask  the  men  to  undergo  such  un- 
paralleled toil  and  hardship,  with  the  danger  of  their 
means  being  exhausted,  while  an  invisible  power 
undid  what  their  most  strenuous  daily  labours 
achieved,  was  contrary  to  the  views  of  their  consi- 
derate commander.  In  short,  he  determined  that  they 
•hould  take  a  day  of  rest,  and  then  set  out  on  their 
return.    This  resolution  was  communicated  to  th^ 


ITAOEB. 


KECENT   POLAR  TUYAOES. 


293 


fd  the  usual  move 
.  On  this  last  dav, 
I  up  from  the  north, 
anes  of  water;  but 
[ipensate  for  the  de- 
to  cause  the  loos- 
ivellers  upon  them, 
effect  was  soon  found 
more  alarming  than 
lead  often  or  twelve 
nselves  to  have  tra- 
y  were  found  not  to 
)st  discouraging  fact 
lailors,  who  only  re- 
ig  of  getting  to  this 
3  now  fast  approach- 
life.  During  their 
iw  only  two  seals,  a 
ly  one  solitary  rotg« 
resumed  that,  from 
>  mighty  scene  of  si- 
irers  pushtd  on  with- 
(ns  of  life ;  but  now, 
:,  when  their  reckon, 
of  progT'-ss,  observa* 
es  south  of  the  posi- 
evening  of  the  23d. 
tad  in  that  time  car 
^ard.  This  was  too 
-third  degree,  though 
is  now  beyond  the 
to  undergo  such  un- 
1  the  danger  of  their 
an  invisible  power 
lous  daily  labours 
iews  of  their  consi- 
determined  that  they 
len  set  out  on  their 
)mmumcated  to  th^ 


crew,  who,  though  deeply  disappointed  at  having 
achieved  so  little,  Acquiesced  in  the  necessity,  ana 
consoled  themselves  with  the  idea  of  having  gone 
farther  north  than  any  previous  expedition  of  which 
there  waa  a  well-authenticated  record. 

The  return  was  equally  laborious  as  the  going  out, 
and  in  some  respects  more  unpleasant,  from  the  in- 
<;rea8ing  softness  of  the  ice  and  snow;  depriving 
them  of  confidence  in  any  spot  on  which  they  could 
place  their  boats  or  persons,  and  often  sinking  two 
or  three  feet  in  an  instant.  However,  the  drift 
southward  made  no  longer  any  deduction  from  their 
progress,  but  added  to  it,  eveiy  observation  giving 
them  several  miles  beyond  their  reckoning.  There 
was  more  open  water,  and  it  was  a  relief  to  them 
that  the  sun  in  their  nightly  journeying  was  lower 
in  the  horizon ;  while,  being  to  the  northward,  he 
did  not  as,  formerly,  glare  in  their  faces.  They  met 
several  bears,  and  killed  one,  which  was  eagerly  de- 
voured by  the  hungry  crew ;  but  the  meal  was  fol- 
lowed by  such  severe  s)rmptoms  of  indigestion  as 
inspired  an  unfavourable  opinion  regarding  the  flesh 
of  this  animal.  Captain  Pairy  attributed  the  bad 
effects  to  the  enormous  quantity  eaten.  At  length, 
on  the  11th  August,  they  heard  the  soimd  of  the 
surge  breaking  against  the  exterior  margin  of  the 
great  icy  field.  They  were  soon  launched  on  the  open 
sea,  and  reached  Table  Island,  where  a  supply  of 
bread  had  been  deposited ;  but  Bruin  had  discovered 
it,  and  devoured  the  whole.  They  found,  however, 
some  accommodations ;  while  the  stores  left  at  Wal- 
den's  Island  were  still  quite  undisturbed.  On  the  81st 
the  navigators  arrived  in  Hecla  Cove,  from  whence, 
soon  afterward,  they  sailed  for  England. 

Such  was  the  result  of  the  first  and  only  attempt 
to  penetrate  to  the  Pole  over  the  frozen  surface  of 
the  deep.  All  the  prowess,  energy,  and  hardihood 
of  British  seamen  were  exerted  to  the  utmost,  with- 
out miUuog  even  an  approach  towards  the  fulfil- 
Bb3 


i,ii»miX:atsti 


294 


BECBNT  POLAR  VOYAGES. 


ment  of  their  object.  A  failure  so  coioplete  has 
suspended  for  the  present  every  idea  of  resuming 
the  project ;  yet  there  seems  nothing  in  the  details 
just  given  to  deter  from  the  enterprise  as  impossible, 
or  even  to  render  it  very  unfeasible.  The  unfavour- 
able issue  seems  evidently  owing  to  the  advanced 
season  of  the  year,  when  the  thaw  and  consequent 
dissolution  of  the  ice  had  made  great  progress,  and 
all  the  materials  of  the  great  northern  floor  were 
broken  up.  The  water,  in  its  progressive  conver- 
sion fVom  solid  into  fluid,  presented  only  a  trea- 
cherous quicksand,  in  which  the  travellers  sunk  at 
every  step,  with  the  peril  of  being  finally  swallowed 
up.  The  ice  in  these  intermediate  stages  of  its  tran- 
sition into  water,  and  in  the  breaches  and  pressures 
to  which  this  save  rise,  assumed  a  variety  of  much 
more  rugged  forms,  than  when  it  was  spread  and 
fast  bound  over  the  surface  of  the  ocean.  Its  ten- 
dency also  when  loosened  to  float  to  the  southward, 
carrying  with.it  whatever  is  moving  along  its  sur- 
face, inevitably  defeats  every  attempt  to  proceed 
over  it  in  a  contrary  direction.  We  entirely  concur, 
therefore,  in  Mr.  Scoresby's  opinion,  that  a  departure 
much  earlier  in  the  season  would  be  quite  indis- 
pensable to  give  any  chance  of  success.  We  would 
even  go  famer  than  he,  and  advise  to  start  at  the 
first  dawn  of  the  Polar  day,  when  there  would  be 
a  probable  chance  of  returning  by  the  end  of  June. 
The  great  plain  of  ice  would  1^  much  smoother  and 
much  firmer  at  that  than  at  any  other  season.  It 
would  be  deeply  covered  with  snow,  which  would 
fill  various  interstices,  convert  rugged  steeps  into 
sloping  ridges,  and  produce  a  surface  generally  more 
level  and  uniform.  This  coating,  too,  would  then 
bo  much  harder,  perhaps  sufficient  to  sustain  the 
weight  both  of  the  men  and  boats,  and  afford  every 
where  sure  and  solid  footing.  Wheels,  it  is  probable, 
might  be  employed  with  advantage,  though  wholly 
uont  for  that  nigged  and  sinking  surface  over  whicL 


rAOES. 

ro  so  complete  has 
y  idea  of  resuming 
thing  in  the  details 
rprise  as  impossible, 
ble.  The  unfavour- 
ng  to  the  advanced 
law  and  consequent 
great  progress,  oUd 
lorthem  floor  were 
progressive  conver- 
lented  only  a  trea- 
i  travellers  sunk  at 
ig  finally  swallowed 
,te  stages  of  its  trail- 
iches  and  pressures 
i  a  variety  of  much 
it  was  spread  and 
he  ocean.  Its  ten- 
at  to  the  southward, 
Dving  along  its  sur- 
attempt  to  proceed 
We  entirely  concur, 
ion,  that  a  departure 
>uld  be  quite  indis- 
mccess.  We  would 
Ivise  to  start  at  the 
hen  there  would  be 
by  the  end  of  June, 
much  smoother  and 
ly  other  season.  It 
snow,  which  would 
rugged  steeps  into 
rface  generally  more 
ng,  too,  would  then 
:ient  to  sustain  the 
its,  and  afford  every 
V^heels,  it  is  probable, 
tage,  though  wholly 
( BiuiEace  over  whicL 


RECENT  FOLAR  V0YA0E8. 


295 


^mm 


Captain  Parry  was  obliged  to  tread.  We  are  even 
inclined  to  ask,  whether  other  machinery  might  not 
be  beneficially  introduced  ?  Could  there  not  be  con- 
structed  a  light  portable  bridge,  to  be  thrown'  across 
chasms  and  from  hummock  to  hummock,  over  which 
the  keel  of  the  boats  by  due  adaptation  might  slide 
as  on  a  railway,  and  the  evils  of  friction  be  avoided? 
— The  cold,  doubtless,  would  be  most  extreme  and 
intense ;  but  Captain  Parry's  experience  and  manage- 
ment during  his  four  winterings  seem  to  have  re- 
moved every  apprehension  that  it  would  prove  fatal. 
The  boats  might  be  hermetically  closed,  with  wind- 
ing entrances,  like  the  winter-huts  of  the  Esquimaux ; 
and  it  was  clearly  established,  that,  eveh  in  the  dark- 
est depth  of  the  Polar  winter,  provided  tempests  did 
not  fill  the  sky,  it  was  possible  and  even  most  salu- 
tary, to  perform  brisk  movements  in  the  open  air. 
The  travellers  would  indeed  require  an  addition  to 
their  spirituous  fuel,  not  a  weighty  article ;  also  a 
larger  stock  of  clothes;  but  these  last  it  would  be  every 
way  expedient  to  wear  on  their  persons.  The  only 
circumstance  which  seems  seriously  alarming,  is  an 
observation  made  by  Captain  Parry,  that  the  daily 
allowance  of  provision,  amounting  to  ten  ounces  of 
biscuit  and  nine  of  pemmican,  was  not  found  sufii- 
cient  to  maintain  the  men  in  full  vigour ;  and  truly, 
when  contrasted  with  their  severe  toils,  ic  does  ap- 
pear an  inadequate  supply.  It  were  dreadful  indeed 
to  think  of  sending  a  party  to  the  Pole  on  short  allow- 
ance. The  quantity  could  not  well  be  increased 
without  making  the  drag  too  severe ;  but  we  cannot 
help  thinking  that  the  victuals  selected,  fulfilled  very 
imperfectly  the  obvious  condition  of  being  such  as  to 
comprise  the  greatest  possible  nutriment  in  the  least 
possible  bulk.  Thus  it  seems  unaccountable  that 
the  gioater  part  of  the  food  should  have  been  farina- 
ceous, in  the  form  of  dry  biscuit,  which  contains 
surely  much  less  nourishment  than  the  same  weight 
of  aiumal  food.    We  preteud  not  to  be  at  aU  versant 


MwrwaiN!^  >■ 


296 


RSONT  POLAR  TOYAOSO. 


in  the  mysteries  of  cookery ;  yet  portable  soup,  foe 
instance,  might  certainly  have  been  so  prepared  as 
to  imbody  a  much  greater  amount  of  nutritive  sub- 
stance than  mere  dried  and  pounded  beef;  and,  if 
duly  seasoned,  might  have  formed  a  most  comfortable 
mess  imder  the  snows  of  the  Pole.  The  addition  of 
some  rich  cakes,  cheese,  and  butter  might  seem 
likely  to  compose  a  store  which,  without  exceeding 
in  weight  that  of  Captain  Parry,  would  yield  a  much 
larger  proportion  of  nourishment  and  strength. — ^We 
should  hesitate  to  recommend  Mr.  Scoresby's  plan  of 
being  drawn  to  the  Pole  by  reindeer,  or  even  of 
trusting  to  a  team  of  any  description.  These  ani- 
mals would  be  liable  to  many  casualties,  and,  shoidd 
they  break  down  at  an  advanced  period  of  the  route, 
the  result  might  be  disastrous  in  the  extreme. 

This  project  would  requiie,of  course,  that  the  ship 
should  winter  on  the  northern  coast  of  Spitzbergen ; 
an  arrangement,  we  conceive,  indispensable  to  avoid 
that  delay  which  had  such  an  influence  in  frustrating 
the  late  expedition.  We  are  surprised  to  find,  that 
even  Captain  Parrj',  after  so  many  successful  winter- 
ings, considers  this  as  a  serious  objection.  In  fact, 
on  seeing  it  admitted,  that  before  the  close  of  autumn 
a  ship  might  penetrate  to  82°,  and  perhaps  to  83°,  we 
are  tempted  to  ask  whether  a  discovery-vessel  might 
not,  in  tne  first  season,  push  forward  to  that  latitude, 
and  find  a  station  either  in  an  island,  if  such  should 
bo  found,  as  has  been  done  before ;  or,  if  not,  whether 
U  might  not  enclose  itself  within  one  of  the  great 
fields  of  ice,  and  there  await  the  arrival  of  sprmg  ? 
A  very  considerable  and  probably  the  roughest  por- 
tion of  the  Polar  route  would  thus  be  avoided. 

A  different  principle  from  that  above  suggested 
has  been  proceeded  upon  by  Captain  Ross,  in  the 
Arctic  expedition  in  which  he  is  now  engaged.  By 
the  power  of  steam,  which  has  produced  such 
wonwrs  in  modem  navi^iation,  he  hopes  to  vanquish 


MPnnnnmMRmMki 


_L 


♦  • 


>YA0E8. 

et  portable  soup,  fot 
been  so  prepared  as 
unt  of  nutritive  sub- 
funded  beef;  and,  if 
id  a  most  comfortable 
•le.  The  addition  of 
butter  might  seem 
1,  without  exceeding 
,  would  yield  a  much 
t  and  strength. — We 
Ir.  Scoresby's  plan  of 
eindeer,  or  even  of 
ription.  These  ani- 
asualties,  and,  shoidd 
d  period  of  the  route, 
1  the  extreme. 
f  course,  that  the  ship 
oast  of  Spitzbergen ; 
idispensable  to  avoid 
fluence  in  frustrating 
urprised  to  find,  that 
ny  successful  winter- 
i  objection.  In  fact, 
e  the  close  of  autumn 
nd  perhaps  to  83°,  we 
scovery-vessel  might 
ward  to  that  latitude, 
sland,  if  such  should 
e;  or,  if  not,  whether 
hin  one  of  the  ^at 
fie  arrival  of  sprmg  ? 
ily  the  roughest  por- 
lius  be  avoided. 

lat  above  suggested 
)aptain  Ross,  in  the 
is  now  engaged.  By 
has  produced  such 
he  hopes  to  vanquish 


NORTHERN  WHALE-FISHERY. 


297 


the  obstacles  which  have  arrested  in  this  career  all 
former  navigators.  Steam,  indeed,  has  no  power 
against  ice;  but  if  at  any  period  of  the  season  there 
sliould  be  found  an  open  sea  reaching  to  the  Pole,  a 
vessel  thus  propelled  might  in  a  week  perform  the 
voyage  to  and  from  that  great  boundary.  The  doubt 
whether  the  waters  will  ever  open  to  such  an  extent, 
and  the  fear  that,  having  opened  and  allowed  the  na- 
vigators to  pass,  the  ice  may  close  in  behind  them, 
cannot  fail  to  suggest  themselves  to  the  reader's 
mind ;  but  we  do  not  wish  at  present  to  indulge  in 
unfavourable  augury. 

Captain  Ross  makes  this  bold  attempt  solely  upon 
his  own  resources,  and  doubtless  with  the  view  of 
effacing  the  error  by  which  he  relinquished  to  Cap- 
tain Parry  the  glory  of  penetrating  by  Lancaster 
Sound  into  the  Polar  ocean.  He  took  his  departiue 
in  the  Spring  of  1839.  His  vessel,  it  appears,  suf- 
fered some  damage  in  the  Gi-eenland  sea,  which  he 
was  enabled  to  repair  by  the  aid  of  a  ship  employed  in 
whale-fishing.  He  proposed,  it  was  understood,  to 
winter  in  Spitzbergen,  and  in  the  course  of  the  present 
summer  to  attempt  the  execution  of  his  grand  design. 
The  issue,  however,  is  not  likely  to  be  known  in  tbis 
country  till  a  very  advanced  period  of  the  searon. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

The  NorOum  WhaU-Fuhery. 

We  have  formerly  had  occasion  to  notice  the  great 
number  and  stupendous  magnitude  of  those  animal 
forms  with  which  nature  has  fiUed  tlie  abysses  of  the 
Arctic  ocean.  The  cetaceous  orders,  which  include 
the  mightiest  of  living  beings,  belong  peculiarly,  and 


liMliiMMiliil^ 


S98 


NOKTHSRN  WRAtS-nSHCRT. 


in  some  respects  exclusively,  to  those  northern 
depths.  Confident  in  their  multitude  and  their 
strength,  they  would  for  ever  ha\e  rested  peaceful  and 
undisturbed  amid  the  vast  and  dreary  domain  which 
Providence  has  given  them  to  occupy,  had  not  the 
spirit  of  avarice  commenced  agaiuBt  them  a  deadly 
warfare.  Man,  ever  searching  the  remotest  parts 
of  the  globe  for  objects  which  might  contribute  to 
his  use  and  accommodation,  discovered  in  those 
huge  animals  a  variety  of  substances  iitted  for  the 
supply  of  important  wants.  Even  after  his  more 
refined  taste  rejected  their  flesh  as  food,  the  oil  was 
required  to  trim  the  winter  lamp,  and  to  be  employed 
in  various  branches  of  manufacture ;  while  the  bone, 
from  its  firm,  flexible,  and  elastic  quality,  is  pecu- 
liarly fitted  for  various  articles  of  dress  and  ornament. 
No  sooner,  therefore,  had  the  course  of  discovery 
opened  a  way  into  the  seas  of  the  north,  than  he 
discerned  the  benefits  which  might  be  derived  from 
snatching  the  spoil  of  these  tenants  of  the  frozen 
waters.  He  commenced  against  them  a  system  of 
attack,  that  was  soon  converted  into  a  regular  trade, 
but  one  more  full  of  adventure  and  peril  than  any 
other  by  which  human  subsistence  is  earned. 

It  has  been  generally  supposed  that  whale-fishing, 
as  a  commercial  pursuit,  arose  subsequently  to  the 
revival  of  navigation  in  Europe ;  but  the  researches  of 
Mr.  Scoresby  leave  no  doubt  that,  on  a  small  scale 
at  least,  it  existed  at  a  much  earlier  period.  Even 
the  voyage  of  Ohthere,  in  890,  shows  that  its  opera- 
tions were  already  carried  on  with  some  activity  on 
the  coast  of  Norway.  Indeed  it  was  natural  that, 
in  this  native  region  of  the  cetaeea,  their  capture 
would  commence  sooner  than  elsewhere,  and  at  an 
era  probably  ascending  far  beyond  human  records. 
Still  this  was  not  the  true  whale,  an  animal  which 
never  leaves  its  haunts  in  the  depths  of  the  Arctic 
zone.  It  was  that  species  of  dolphin  called  bottle- 
nose,  which  alone  reach'  ■  the  northern  extremities 


BRCRT. 


NORTHERN  WRAU-n8RX<lT. 


290 


to  those  northern 
iltitude  and  their 
rested  peaceful  and 
eary  domain  which 
ccupy,  had  not  the 
inBt  them  a  deadly 
the  remotest  parts 
night  contribute  to 
iscovered  in  those 
inces  fitted  for  the 
ven  after  his  more 
as  food,  the  oil  was 
and  to  be  employed 
re ;  while  the  bone, 
ic  quality,  is  pecu- 
jress  and  ornament. 
;ourse  of  discovery 
the  north,  than  he 
(ht  be  derived  from 
lants  of  the  frozen 
t  them  a  system  of 
into  a  re^lar  trade, 
and  peril  than  any 
ce  is  earned. 
1  that  whale-fishinf^, 
subsequently  to  the 
mt  the  researches  of 
It,  on  a  small  scale 
irlier  period.  Even 
liows  that  its  opera- 
ith  some  activity  on 
it  was  natural  that, 
taeea,  their  capture 
ilsewhere,  and  at  an 
and  human  records. 
[e,  an  animal  which 
depths  of  the  Arctic 
Dlphin  called  bottle- 
northern  extremities 


of  Eui^ope ;  is  occasionally  stranded  on  the  coasts  of 
Orkney  and  Shetland;  and  at  times  penetrates  much 
farther  south. 

The  Northmen,  in  their  career  of  conquest  and 
settlement  over  Europe,  introduced  on  the  coast  of 
France  the  hunting  of  the  whale,  which,  to  these 
hardy  mariners,  was  at  once  a  trade  and  a  sport ; 
having  found  in  the  southern  seas  an  inferior  species, 
attracted  thithnr  by  the  shoals  of  herrings  on  wliich  it 
fed.  These  smaller  fish  frequent  the  Bay  of  Biscay, 
to  which  they  seem  to  make  a  penodical  migration, 
and  where  they  are  arrested  by  the  wide  circuit  of 
its  shores.  Ancient  documents  prove  that  the  Nor- 
mans, the  Flemings,  and  even  the  English,  regarded 
them  as  a  valuable  commodity ;  less,  however,  for 
the  oil,  which  in  this  species  is  not  very  abundant, 
than  for  the  flesh,  which  satisfied  the  hunger  and  even 
pleased  the  palate  of  our  rude  ancestors.  Whales' 
tongues  are  ranked  among  the  delicacies  that  adorned 
the  table  of  the  middle  ages. 

The  bay  just  named  afforded  the  chief  theatre  for 
this  southern  whale-fishery,  which  was  almost  en- 
tirely engrossed  by  the  people  inhabiting  its  interior 
shores ;  those  of  Beam  and  Gascony  on  the  French 
side,  and  of  Biscay  on  the  Spanish.  The  Basques  in 
particular  soon  surpassed  all  other  nations,  and  car- 
ried to  such  perfection  the  processes  connected  with 
this  pursuit,  that  the  most  expert  whale-fishers  in 
modern  times  have  done  little  more  than  copy  their 
usages.  By  degrees  they  extended  their  adventures 
into  the  northern  seas,  where  they  met  the  people 
of  Iceland,  a  Norwegian  colony,  who  had  already 
engaged  in  this  trade.  Here  the  Basques  and  Ice- 
landers, combining  their  efforts,  soon  brought  the 
fishery  into  a  very  flourishing  state. 

This,  however,  was  conducted  on  a  small  scale, 
when  compared  with  the  enterprise  of  modem  nations. 
Yet  the  fir^t  nortbera  navigators  were  not  attracted 
thither  by  this  special  object,  but  stumbled  on  it;  •• 


•p 


800 


mnmmmmm 


iroRTRiRN  wRAiK-nnnitr. 


it  were,  in  the  courae  of  their  anluous  attempts  to 
accomplish  a  passage  to  India  by  tlie  Arctic  seas 
Barentz,  in  1596,  discovered  Spitzbcrjfen,  long  the 
main  seat  of  this  fishery,  and  even  examined  a  con- 
siderable extent  of  its  shores ;  but  as  these  presented 
an  obstruction  to  his  views  of  reaching  India,  and  as 
his  voyage  closed  at  last  in  disaster,  no  other  result 
was  obtained  beyond  a  certain  knowledge  of  geo- 
graphy and  of  the  animal  kingdom. 

The  English  were  the  first  who  pushed  their  ope- 
rations into  the  depth  of  the  Arctic  ocean.  The  Bear 
Island  of  Barentz,  being  rediscovered  and  named 
after  Alderman  Cherie,  gave  rise  to  a  series  of  voy- 
ages for  the  capture  of  the  walrus,  of  which  some 
account  has  been  already  given.  The  views  of  the 
merchants  were  much  extended,  when  Hudson,  hav- 
ing engaged  in  his  daring  attempt  to  reach  and  to 
cross  the  Pole,  surveyed  Spitzbergen  or  East  Green- 
land even  to  its  northern  extremity.  Although  unable 
to  penetrate  farther,  he  gave  information  regarding 
the  immense  number  of  whales  which  were  seen  on 
those  Arctic  shores.  Thenceforth  the  adventurers 
fitted  out  for  Polar  discovery  were  instructed  to  cover 
their  expenses,  aa  far  aa  might  be,  by  the  occasional 
capture  of  these  valuable  animals.  This  arrange- 
ment, as  formerly  remarked,  was  not  hapmr,  so  far 
as  discovery  was  concerned,  since  the  considerations 
of  profit  were  very  likely  to  supersede  the  main  object 
of  the  voyage.  Poole,  in  1610,  confined  his  views 
almost  entirely  to  the  capture  of  the  walrus  j  but  as 
he  reported  a  great  abundance  of  whales,  the  Com- 
pany next  year  sent  out  the  Mary  Margaret,  furnished 
with  Biscayan  harpooners,  and  with  every  thing  re- 
quisite for  the  great  fishery.  Captain  Edge  accord- 
ingly succeeded  in  taking  a  small  whale,  *which 
yielded  twelve  tons  of  oil ;  the  first,  as  he  conceives, 
that  was  ever  extracted  in  the  Greenland  seas.  The 
termination  of  this  voyage  was  unfortunate ;  yet  the 
llusoovy  Company  next  year  sent  out  two  ships* 


♦  ' 


nSBUKtt 

arduous  attempts  to 
by  the  Arctic  seas 
pitzberjfen,  long  the 
ven  examined  a  con- 
ut  as  thene  presented 
iachin^  India,  and  an 
tister,  no  other  result 
I  knowledge  of  geo- 
lom. 

'ho  pushed  their  ope- 
tic  ocean.  The  Bear 
icovered  and  named 
le  to  a  series  of  Toy< 
drus,  of  which  some 
1.  The  views  of  the 
I,  when  Hudson,  hav- 
mpt  to  reach  and  to 
ergen  or  East  Green- 
ity.  Althou|(h  unable 
iformation  regarding 
I  which  were  seen  on 
3rth  the  adventurers 
re  instructed  to  cover 
be,  by  the  occasional 
nals.  This  arrange- 
ras  not  happv,  so  far 
ice  the  considerations 
srsede  the  main  object 
>,  confined  his  views 
)f  the  walrus }  but  as 
of  whales,  the  Com- 
y  Margaret,  furnished 
I  with  every  thing  re- 
)aptain  Edge  accord- 
small  whsde,*which 
first,  as  he  conceives, 
Sre^nland  seas.  The 
unfortunate ;  yet  the 
sent  out  two  ships* 


NORTHERN  WHALB-nSBlkr. 


301 


the  Whale  and  the  Seahorse,  to  follow  up  the  design. 
The  Dutch,  meantime,  intent  on  every  rorm  of  com- 
mercial adventnrc,  had  vessels  that  very  year  for  the 
same  purpose  in  the  Greenland  waters.  These  our 
countrymen  chose  to  consider  as  interlopers,  and 
bemg  the  stronger  party,  compelled  their  rivals  to 
decamp,  without  even  attempting  the  fishery.  Next 
year  the  same  Company  obtained  a  royal  charter, 
prohibiting  all  besides  themselves  to  intermeddle  in 
any  shape  with  this  valuable  branch  of  industry.  To 
make  good  this  privilege,  which  the  Dutch  were  not 
disposed  to  consider  well-founded,  the  Company  fitted 
out  seven  strong  and  well-armed  ships,  whose  com- 
manders, on  reaching  the  seas  round  Spitzbergen, 
found  them  filled  with  ships  of  different  nations, 
Dutch,  French,  and  Spanish.  All  these  the  English 
compelled  either  to  depart,  or  to  fish  under  the  con- 
dition of  deUvering  half  of  the  proceeds  to  them  aa 
the  lords  of  the  northern  seas.  So  busy  were  they, 
however,  in  excluding  others,  that,  little  time  or  care 
being  bestowed  on  their  own  fishing,  they  returned 
very  slenderly  laden.  Foreign  nations  exclaimed 
against  this  interference  as  a  most  flagrant  example 
of  the  tyranny  of  the  new  mistress  of  the  ocean  ( 
and,  indeed,  the  grounds  on  which  England  rested 
her  claim  do  not  appear  to  have  been  valid.  She 
alleged  the  prior  occupation  made  by  Sir  Hugh  Wil- 
loughby;  but  supposing  that  the  mere  view,  through 
mist  and  tempest,  of  Uie  Spitzbergen  coast,  could 
have  established  a  permanent  right  to  rule  over  the 
neighbouring  waters,  this  discovery  was  shown  by 
Peter  Plancius,  the  cosmographer,  on  the  clearest 
grounds,  to  have  been  made  by  Barentz,  and  not  by 
Sir  Hugh.  The  commencement  of  the  fishery  by 
the  English  formed  certainly  a  better  claim,  yet  still 
by  no  means  sufiRcient  to  establish  perpetual  sove- 
reignty over  those  vast  seas.  The  Dutch  determined 
not  amy  to  refuse  acquiescence,  but  to  repel  force 
by  force ;  for  which  purpose  they  sent  oat  fleets  so 
Cc 


■■ 


W^' 


SOS 


NORTBsnir  wiuLE-riramY. 


numerouB  and  so  wall  armed,  that  for  some  yean 
only  slight  und  partiiil  annoyances  were  sustained 
by  them ;  while  the  two  governments  appear  to  have 
looked  on  and  allowed  the  adventurera  to  fiftht  it  out. 
At  length,  in  1618,  a  general  encounter  took  place, 
which  terminated  to  tiie  disadvantage  of  the  English, 
one  of  whose  ships  was  taken  and  carried  into  Am- 
sterdam. The  Dutch  administration,  reluctant  to 
involve  themHclvcis  in  a  (juarrel  with  their  powerful 
neighbour,  prudently  restored  the  vessel  with  its 
lading  and  crew ;  bestowing  at  the  same  time  a  re- 
ward on  the  gallant  seamen  who  had  made  the  cap- 
ture. At  length  it  appeared  expedient  to  put  an  end 
to  this  perpetual  coUision.  There  was^dmitted  to  be 
room  enough  for  all  the  nations  of  Europe,  provided 
they  ceased  to  annoy  each  other;  therefore  a  divi- 
sion was  made  of  the  coasts  and  toys  of  Spitsbergen 
among  such  States  as  had  been  accustomed  to  resort 
to  the  fishery.  The  English,  allowed  to  have  some- 
what of  the  best  claim,  were  favoured  with  the  first 
choice;  they  pitched  upon  Horizon  Bay,  Clock  Bay, 
Safety  Port,  and  Magdalena  Bay,  in  the  more  southern 
part  of  the  coast,  and  near  the  laige  island  called 
Charles's  Foreland.  Then  followed  the  other  nations 
in  the  order  of  their  adjudged  rights.  The  Dutch 
ehose  the  fine  island  at  the  north-west  extremity, 
which  they  "named  Amsterdam,  with  three  bays,  one 
of  which,  between  it  and  the  mainland,  they  called 
Hollanders'  Bay.  The  Danes  and  Hamburghen 
found  an  island  and  a  bay  between  the  Dutch  and 
English  stations,  while  the  French  and  Spaniards 
wore  obliged  to  content  themselves  with  Biscayners' 
Point  and  other  bleak  promontories  along  the  north- 
em  coast. 

The  English  Russia  or  Muscovy  Company  were 
thus  allowed  full  scope  for  carrying  on  the  trade, 
from  which  they  diligently  excluded  the  rest  of  their 
countrymen.  Their  pursuits,  however,  were  pro- 
bably too  various,  and  their  transactions  on  too  groat 


-rilBlRT. 

,  that  Tor  som«  yean 
inces  were  suatained 
iments  appear  to  have 
jiiturura  to  flirht  it  out. 
encounter  took  place, 
antage  of  the  English, 
and  carried  into  Am- 
istrution,  reluctant  to 
si  with  their  powerful 
I  the  vessel  with  ita 
It  the  same  time  a  re- 
ho  had  made  the  cap- 
xpedient  to  put  an  end 
ere  was^dmitted  to  be 
IS  of  Europe,  provided 
her;  tlierefore  a  divi- 
id  bays  of  Spitsbergen 
n  accustomed  to  resort 
allowed  to  have  some- 
favoured  with  the  first 
rizon  Bay,  Clock  Bay, 
y,  in  the  more  southern 
le  laiee  island  called 
owed  the  other  nations 
i  riehts.  The  Dutch 
north-west  extremity, 
a,  with  three  bays,  one 
mainland,  they  called 
ea  and  Hamburghen 
:tween  the  Dutch  and 
•^nch  and  Spaniards 
elves  with  Biscayners* 
tones  along  the  north- 

iscovy  Company  were 
larrying  on  the  trade, 
eluded  the  rest  of  their 
I,  however,  were  pro- 
Lusactions  on  too  gT<»at 


IfORTBCRN     i*«Af.»<WBIIWIT. 


308 


a  scale,  for  permitting  them  to  bestow  on  this  diffl- 
cult  trade  that  close  attention  which  could  alone 
render  it  productive.  The  gains  of  their  fishery  were 
more  than  absorbed  by  extensive  losses ;  they  gra- 
dually limited  their  transactions,  till  England  scarce- 
ly sent  a  ship  to  the  north,  and  saw  all  the  markets 
filled  by  her  industrious  rivals. 

The  Dutch, meantime,  succeeded  in  converting  this 
fishery  into  a  grand  source  of  national  wealth.  At 
first,  according  to  the  usage  of  the  time,  they  fol- 
lowed the  objectionable  system  of  an  exclusive 
company,  though  on  a  somewhat  liberal  scale.  The 
oriifmal  body,  formed  at  Amsterdam,  was  obliged  to 
admit  others  belonging  to  Zealand  and  Friesland, 
and  finally  to  receive  into  their  number  many  weal- 
thy individuals  of  the  province  of  Holland.  The 
nation,  having  thus  invested  an  immense  capital  in 
this  trade,  and  carrying  it  on  with  their  characteris- 
tic prudence  and  diligence,  soon  raised  it  to  the 
highest  pitch  of  prosperity.  On  their  first  arrival  in 
the  northern  seas,  the  whales  were  seen  extended  on 
the  face  of  the  deep  without  any  fear,  and  present- 
ing themselves,  as  it  were,  to  the  stroke  of  the  har- 
poon. The  only  difliculty  was  to  carry  them  home  5 
for  one  or  two  such  large  animals  were  sufficient  to 
fill  a  ship.  Tlie  Dutch  adopted,  therefore,  the  plan 
of  extracting  on  the  spot  tne  oil  and  bones;  thus 
reducing  all  the  valuable  substance  into  so  small  a 
compass,  that  one  ship  could  convey  the  produce  of 
numerous  whales.  They  founded  the  village  of 
Smeerenberg,  in  the  bay  of  the  same  name,  where 
fish  were  discovered  in  extraordinary  abundance. 
Boilers,  tanks,  coolers,  and  all  the  requisite  apparatus, 
were  erected  on  an  immense  scale ;  and  this  station, 
during  the  summer,  became  crowded  and  populous, 
resembling  in  some  degree  a  northern  Batavia.  The 
fishers  caught  whales  without  any  effort,  and  had 
only  to  carry  them  two  or  three  miles  to  the  shore, 
where  the  oil  was  extracted.    In  tliis  dreary  comer, 


m 


304 


KOKTiRiur  WRALC'Vnimir. 


too,  were  pi\jo)red  all  tho  luxurirts  of  life,  amonir 
which  an*  ipecially  mentioned  Itot  rolls,  prepHrea 
every  mornini^.  A  bell  waa  runff,  at  the  Round  of 
which  all  the  inhubitanta  ran  to  supply  theniNelvea 
with  a  dainty  that  seemed  to  belong  to  a  diflferent 
climate.  Zorgdraifer  mentions,  thiit  he  entered  this 
bay  in  1697,  nnd  found  it  o<;cupicd  by  188  veNNela, 
havinff  on  board  the  produce  of  1959  fiBh. 

Under  these  eaay  circumstances,  tho  trade,  even 
in  the  hands  of  an  exchisivu  company,  became  an 
ample  source  of  national  wealth.  8oon,  however, 
it  experienced  an  unforeseen  reverse.  'ITie  whales, 
pursued  and  killed  in  such  vast  numbers,  learned  to 
tlrend  the  assault  of  that  mighty  destroyer  who  had 
invaded  their  haunts,  undisturbed  for  so  many  prior 
anea.  They  (rraduully,  and  at  last  almost  entirely, 
deserted  Hmeerenberi;^,  removing  into  North  Bay, 
where  they  were  still  taken  with  facility ;  but  much 
delay  was  incurred  in  the  conveyance  of  the  carcasses 
to  the  former  station.  From  North  Bay,  also,  they 
ffradiiallv  receded,  and  the  fishers  were  obliged  to 
follow  them  into  the  open  sea,  where  both  the  cap> 
ture  and  transportation  became  moro  and  more 
difflcult.  These  mighty  animals  relinquished  part 
after  part  of  their  native  deeps,  and  were  everywhere 
compelled  to  give  way  before  a  destroying  power 
which  they  could  not  otherwise  escape.  Thejr 
sought  their  final  refuge  near  that  great  bank  of  ice 
which  forms  the  western  boundary  of  the  Whale- 
flshers'  Bight  in  the  Greenland  sea.  Hither  it 
behooved  the  pursuers  to  follow ;  where,  mooring 
themselves  to  frozen  fields,  hey  watched  with  no 
small  hazard  the  movements  of  their  prey.  The 
expense  and  delay  of  conveying  their  prizes,  some* 
times  9000  miles,  to  the  harbour  of  Smeerenberg, 
becoming  very  inconvenient,  arrangements  were 
made,  by  which  the  whale,  being  fastened  to  the 
aides  of  the  ship,  witn flensed,  or  cleared  of  its  blub- 
ber and  bone ;  after  which  the  useless  carcass  was 


niRiiir. 

uriftfl  of  life,  amonir 
1  Itot  rolls.  prepHrea 
anif,  at  the  sound  of 
o  supply  theniNclvee 
IxtloiiK  to  a  diflTorHiit 
,  tliHt  he  entered  this 
pied  by  188  vessels, 

11)59  fish. 

iiccH,  tho  tnulp,  even 
company,  becam«  aii 
Ith.  Hoon,  however, 
iverse.  '1*116  whales, 
t  numbers,  learned  to 
y  destroyer  wlio  had 
3d  for  so  many  prior 
last  almost  entirely, 
mg  into  North  Bay, 
:h  facility ;  but  much 
ance  of  the  CHrcasses 
(orth  Bay,  also,  they 
lers  were  obli((ed  to 

where  both  thie  cap- 
me  moro  and  more 
lis  relinquished  part 
and  were  everywhere 

a  destroying  power 
krise  escape.  They 
lat  great  bank  of  ice 
idary  of  the  Whale- 
md  sea.  Hither  it 
uw ;  where,  mooring 
cy  watched  with  no 
of  their  prey.  The 
7  their  prizes,  some* 
)ur  of  Smeerenberg, 

arrangements  were 
ing  fastened  to  the 
r  cleared  of  its  blub- 

tueless  carcass  was 


irnRTRRRN  WHALI-rUIIBIIT. 


805 


eonaigned  to  the  deep.  The  village  then  lost  eTery 
fountution  on  which  its  prosperity  had  rested.  Tlie 
stores,  furnaces,  capacious  vessels,  and  numeroua 
utensils  there  di^Hisited,  were  canied  away ;  hence 
it  is  now  difficult  to  trace  the  spot  on  which  stood 
that  once  flourishing  settlement.  At  the  same  time, 
the  trade,  become  thus  arduous  and  perilous,  ana 
yielding  reduced  profits,  was  no  longer  advantageous 
to  an  exclusive  body.  That  once  prosperous  com- 
pany was  accordingly  dissolved,  and  the  fishery 
thrown  open  to  all  who  chose  to  engage  in  it :  and 
such  is  tho  activity  of  individual  enterprise,  that, 
even  under  a  diminished  nrosi^ct  of  success,  a 
greater  number  of  ships  ar  jw  employed  than  ever 
was  fitted  out  from  the  ports  of  Holland. 

Tho  Knglifth  meantime  did  not  remain  altogcthci 
unconcerned  spectators  of  this  imineni  '  prosperity 
on  the  part  of  their  neighbours.  After  the  Muscovy 
Company  was  off  the  field,  another  was  instituted, 
under  the  title  of  "  The  Company  of  Merchants  of 
London  trading  to  Greenland."  They  subsciribed  a 
capital  of  40,000/.  which  was  increased  successively 
to  82,000/.  though  only  45,000/.  was  actually  paid. 
This  undertaking  proved  most  disas'rous.  In  nine 
years  the  entire  capital  was  lost,  an  I  the  concern 
broken  up.  Its  fall  is  traced  by  Elking  to  the 
usual  loose  and  wasteful  management  incident  to 
large  companies  carrying  on  their  concerns  by  un- 
interested agents.  Men  were  employed  for  masters 
who  were  entirely  unacauaintt'd  with  the  business : 
they  were  paid  by  a  flxea  salary  instead  of  receiving 
a  share  of  the  produce ;  hence  they  used  to  spend 
long  interv^s  on  shore,  amusing  themselves  with 
hunting  deer,  and  appropriating  to  their  own  use  the 
fruits  of  the  chase.  The  wreck  of  the  Company's 
last  ship,  after  the  capture  of  eleven  whales,  preci- 
pitated their  ruin. 

The  legislature,  mortified  that  this  trade,  which 
was  enriching  the  neighbouring  nations,  should  prove 
Cc9 


1 


iiiigiiiiiiHii^^ 


808 


NORTHSRN   WHALS-nSBERV. 


SO  fruitless  in  the  hands  of  Britons,  redoubled  their 
encouragements,  and  exempted  from  all  duty  the 
produce  of  the  national  whale-fisheries.  Thus  fa- 
voured, and  stimulated  by  the  representations  of  Mr. 
Elking,  the  South  Sea  Company  determined  to  em- 
baik  in  this  pursuit  a  large  prupo<tion  of  their  capital. 
In  1735  they  buUt  twelve  large  and  strong  vessels, 
fully  equipped  with  cordage,  casks,  and  fishing 
implements.  These  ships  went  out  in  sprmg,  and 
returned  with  twenty-five  fish,  which  did  not  quite 
pay  the  expense  of  equipment ;  however,  this,  upon 
the  whole,  was  thought  not  a  bad  beginning,  and 
gave  hopes  of  improvement,  which  were  far  from 
being  fulfilled.  In  1730  twenty-two  ships  were  sent 
out,  and  returned  with  only  tv^elve  whales,  so  that  a 
loss  was  incurred  in  that  year  of  nearly  9000/.  The 
following  season  was  little  better;  and  the  Company, 
finding  that  in  eight  years  they  had  expended  an 
immense  sum,  without  the  least  prospect  of  repay 
ment  or  profit,  threw  up  the  trade  altogether. 

Notwithstanding  these  repeated  and  sigiial  failures^ 
the  British  government  did  not  relax  their  zeal.  In 
1732  a  bounty  of  twenty  shillings  per  ton  was  granted 
to  every  ship  exceeding  200  tons  employed  in  the 
whale-fishery.  Several  private  individuals  were  thus 
induced  to  embark  in  the  trade,  and  with  tolerable 
success ;  yet  there  being  still  no  appearance  of  its 
rising  to  any  national  importance,  the  bounty  was 
extended,  in  1749,  to  forty  shillings.  This  produced 
at  length  the  desired  effect.  In  1753  the  ships  sent 
out  amounted  to  forty  sail,  including  several  from 
Scotland,  whose  merchants  in  1750  had  begun  to 
participate  in  the  trade.  In  1755  they  had  increased 
to  eighty-two  sail;  and  in  the  next  twenty  years  the 
trade  continued  in  a  varying  but  generally  prosperous 
state.  Some  regulations  were  introduced  with  the 
view  of  making  it  more  efficient  as  a  nursery  of 
seamen ;  and  in  1769  it  was  considered  firmly  esta- 
btiabed.  after  the  oatioD  had  paid  ia  bounties  upward* 


*' 


E-nSHERV. 

ritona,  redoubled  their 
sd  from  all  duty  the 
e-fiaheries.  Thus  fa- 
representations  of  Mr. 
ny  determined  to  em- 
)ortion  of  their  capital. 
re  and  strong  vessels, 
;,  casks,  and  fishing 
jnt  out  in  spring,  and 
,  which  did  not  quite 
t ;  however,  this,  upon 
a  bad  beginning,  and 
which  were  far  from 
yr-two  ships  were  sent 
reive  whales,  so  that  a 
of  nearly  9000/.  The 
er;  and  the  Company, 
bey  had  expended  an 
ist  prospect  of  repay 
ide  altogether, 
ted  and  sigiial  failures^ 
t  relax  their  zeal.  In 
igs  per  ton  was  granted 
tons  employed  in  the 
3  individuals  were  thus 
le,  and  with  tolerable 
no  appearance  of  its 
ance,  the  bounty  was 
lings.  This  produced 
[n  1753  the  ships  sent 
icluding  several  front 
n  1750  had  begun  to 
^65  they  had  increased 
next  twenty  years  the 
It  generally  prosperous 
3  introduced  with  the 
cient  as  a  nursery  of 
onsidered  firmly  esta- 
id  ia  bounties  upward* 


NORTnERIt  tTHALB-FISHERT. 


307 


of,  600,000/.  then  reckoned  an  enormous  sum.  These 
considerations  induced  the  legislature,  in  1777,  to 
reduce  the  rate  to  thirty  shillings;  but  the  fishery 
could  not  support  itself  on  this  encouragement,  and 
the  vessels  employed  fell,  between  the  years  1775 
and  1781,  from  105  to  39.  The  allowance  of  forty 
shillings  being  restored,  it  regained  its  full  prosperity, 
which  soon  appeared  so  steady  as  to  admit  the 
reduction  of  the  bounty;  the  total  amount  of  wliich, 
paid  down  to  1786,  had  not  fallen  short  of  1,266,000/. 
It  was  therefore  reduced  in  1787  to  30». ;  in  1792  to 
S5«. ;  and  in  1795  to  20}.  Even  under  this  lowest 
grant  the  fishery  increased;  able  and  intelligeni 
whale-captains  were  formed,  and  Britain  soon  out- 
stripped all  other  nations  in  a  pursuit  in  which  hei 
^  first  steps  had  been  so  tardy.  Another  circumstanct 
doubtless  much  favoured  this  progress.  The  Dutcli, 
having  imprudently  admitted  the  French  into  their 
territory,  were  soon  absorbed  into  the  destructive 
vortex  of  that  revolutionary  power.  Involved  in 
her  long  war  with  the  mistress  of  the  seas,  and 
subjected  to  the  anti-commercial  policjr  of  Na- 
poleon, Holland  saw  all  her  fisheries,  with  every 
other  branch  of  her  foreign  commerce,  completely 
annihilated,  and  British  vessels  enjoying  the  imdis- 
turbed  possession  of  the  northern  seas.  Peace,  in- 
deed, at  length  re-opened  to  that  nation  all  these 
channels  of  industry;  but  during  a  suspension  of 
twenty  years  their  habits  were  broken,  their  con 
nexions  dissolved,  their  most  skilful  and  intrepid 
whale-fishers  had  died  out;  while  Britain,  which 
had  been~  in  a  state  of  ccmstant  activity  and  im- 

Erovement,  was  now  every  way  an  overmatch  for 
er  formerly  successful  rival. 
Before  proceeding  to  describe  the  operations  of 
the  whale-fishery,  it  may  be  proper  to  mention  some 
attempts  which,  with  a  view  to  its  more  eflectud 
prosecution,  were  made  to  establish  colonies  on  the 
dreuy  shores  of  the  Polar  sea. 


808 


NORTHERN  WHALS-nSUERT 


In  1633  the  Dutch  planned  a  settlement  on  the 
northern  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  when  seven  sailors 
volunteered  for  this  arduous  undertaking.  On  the 
30th  August  the  fleet  left  them  in  North  Bay,  where 
they  not  only  undertook  to  live  during  the  winter, 
but  even  to  provide  themselves  with  fresh  provisions. 
They  visited  all  the  surrounding  shores,  took  three 
reindeer  and  a  number  of  sea-swallows,  collecting 
also  a  great  quantity  of  a  species  of  watercress. 
Their  great  ambition  was  to  catch  a  whale ;  but, 
though  tantalized  by  the  sight  of  many,  all  tlieir 
attempts  failed.  Even  one  found  dead  and  fresh  on 
the  margin  of  the  sea  was  floated  out  by  the  tide  be- 
fore they  could  secure  it. 

It  was  on  the  3d  October  that  the  extreme  cold 
began  to  be  felt,  accompanied  by  numerous  flights 
of  birds  passing  to  the  southward.  On  the  13th  one 
of  the  casks  of  beer  was  frozen  three  inches  thick. 
The  winterers  were  obliged  to  break  the  ice  in  pieces, 
and  thaw  it  before  the  fire,  when  it  made  a  very  un- 
palatable liquor.  On  the  15th,  having  ascended  one 
of  the  neightx>uring  mountains  they  could  see  only 
a  small  portion  of  the  sun's  disk  on  the  verge  of  the 
horizon,  and  in  a  few  days  it  entirely  disappeared ; 
there  was  still  a  faint  twiUght  of  eight  hours,  which 
was  soon  reduced  to  five,  and  became  every  day 
shorter  and  shorter.  In  November  the  cold  increased 
to  the  utmost  pitch :  they  could  not  sleep  in  their 
beds,  but  were  obliged  either  to  crouch  over  the  fire, 
or  run  full  speed  through  the  hut,  to  keep  up  the 
vital  energy.  At  length  they  ranged  all  their  couches 
round  the  fireplace  and  a  stove,  yet  still  found  it  ne- 
cessary to  lay  themselves  down  between  the  stove 
and  the  fire,  holding  their  feet  to  the  very  embers. 
On  the  20th  December  they  saw  a  very  bright  illu- 
mination, resembling  the  Aurora  Borealis,  over  the 
southern  part  of  the  sky.  Tliey  could  not,  however, 
believe  it  to  be  the  resd  Aurora,  which  they  after- 
ward saw  of  peculiar  splendour  in  its  proper  plae«. 


nSHBRT 

fi  settlement  on  the 
when  seven  sailors 
dertaking.  On  the 
n  North  Bay,  where 
;  during  the  winter, 
irith  fresh  provisions, 
g  shores,  took  three 
swallows,  collecting 
?cies  of  watercress. 
;atch  a  whale ;  but, 
t  of  many,  all  tlieir 
id  dead  and  fresh  on 
!d  out  by  the  tide  be- 
lt the  extreme  cold 
by  numerous  flights 
rd.  On  the  13th  one 
1  three  inches  thick, 
'eak  the  ice  in  pieces, 
n  it  made  a  very  un- 
laving  ascended  one 
they  could  see  only 
;  on  the  verge  of  the 
entirely  disappeared ; 
f  eight  hours,  which 
I  became  every  day 
ter  the  cold  increased 
d  not  sleep  in  their 
crouch  over  the  fire, 
hut,  to  keep  up  the 
iged  all  their  couches 
yet  still  found  it  ne- 
i  between  the  stove 
to  the  very  embers, 
w  a  very  bright  illu- 
a  Borealis,  over  the 
y  could  not,  however, 
I,  which  they  after- 
'  in  its  proper  place. 


NORTHERN   WHAlE-nSHERT. 


8M 


Night  and  winter  continued  in  their  utmost  mtensi^ 
till  the  22d  January,  when  they  again  enjoyed  atwi- 
light  of  six  hours ;  at  midday  of  the  26th  there  Ava» 
no  longer  a  star  to  be  seen;  but  it  was  the  33d 
February  ere,  from  a  mountain-top,  they  cou  d  descry 
any  portion  of  the  sun's  disk.  Throughout  the  whole 
period  they  had  dreadful  contests  to  maintam  with 
the  Polar  bear.  On  the  3d  March  one  of  these  am- 
mals  had  received  two  balls  in  the  throat,  which  he 
was  endeavouring  to  pluck  out  with  his  paws,  when 
the  whole  seven  sailors  rushed  on  him  with  their 
lances.  Tlie  bear  dashed  at  one  of  them,  tore  the 
lance  from  his  hand,  and  threw  him  on  the  ground : 
but  as  the  animal  was  about  to  devour  his  victim, 
another  sailor  stnick  and  obliged  him  to  quit  his  hold ; 
afterward,  however,  though  pursued  by  all  the  seven, 
he  plunged  into  the  sea  and  escaped. 

Thus  these  seven  persons  passed  through  this  nara 
winter  without  any  severe  attack  of  sciwvy ;  and  on 
the  87th  May  they  were  overjoyed  by  the  ew  of  a 
boat,  which  conveyed  them  to  a  neighbouring  bay, 
where  seven  Dutch  ships  had  assembled  for  the 
fishery.  The  active  life  led  by  these  seamen  was 
apparently  the  chief  cause  by  which  their  health  was 
80  well  preserved.  Tk„*„u 

The  success  of  this  experiment  induced  the  Duten 
Company  to  repeat  the  attempt  in  the  following  year, 
when  seven  other  sailors,  well  furnished  with  victuals, 
and  apparently  with  every  means  of  withstanding 
the  rigour  of  the  climate,  undertook  to  winter  m 
Spitzbergen.  They  appear,  however,  to  have  been 
of  a  less  active  disposition  than  their  predeceBSors, 
and  faUed  in  every  attempt  to  procure  ««*  victuals. 
The  sun  having  quitted  them  on  the  20th  October, 
they  shut  themselves  up  in  their  hut,  out  of  which 
they  scarcely  ever  stirred.  In  a  few  weeks  they  were 
attacked  by  scurvy  under  its  most  mahgimnt  form, 
which,  amid  this  recluse  life,  and  m  the  absence  of 
fresh  meat  and  vegetables,  assumed  continually  a 


aio 


NORTHERN  WHALB-FMHERT. 


more  alarming  type,  till  three  died,  whose  bo^e"  the 
othere  with  difficulty  enclosed  in  coffins.  TTie  sur- 
rtvora  killed  a  dog  and  a  fox,  which  afforded  some 
wlief,  brt  not  enough  to  arrest  the  promress  of  the 
malady.  The  bears  began  to  approach  the  hut,  and 
would  have  been  a  blessing,  had  the  men  retained 
strength  either  to  shoot  the  animals  or  to  drag  home 
the  carcass.  Their  mouths  became  ulcerated ;  they 
were  unable  to  chew  their  biscuit ;  and  only  Jerome 
Carloen  had  power  to  rise  from  bed  and  kmdie  a  fire. 
The  sun  appeared  on  the  84th  February ;  but  they 
could  no  longer  derive  aid  from  this  benignant  lumi- 
nary. The  last  entry  in  their  journal  is  in  the  fol- 
lowing terms:— "We  are  all  four  stretched  on  our 
beds,  and  are  still  alive,  and  would  eat  wilhngly,  if 
any  one  of  us  were  able  to  rise  and  hght  a  fire.  We 
implore  the  Almighty,  with  folded  hands,  to  deliver 
usTrom  this  life,  which  it  is  impossible  to  prolong 
without  food  or  any  thing  to  warm  our  frozen  limbs. 
None  of  us  can  help  the  other,  each  must  support  his 
own  misery."— Early  in  spring  the  fishuw  vessels 
arrived,  and  a  party  hastened  to  the  hut.  They  found 
it  so  fast  closed,  that  an  entrance  could  onljr  be 
effectfed  by  opening  the  roof.  They  found  rt  a 
tomb.  Three  of  the  men  were  enclosed  in  the  coffins 
which  had  been  framed  for  them;  the  other  four  lay 
dead,  two  in  their  beds,  and  two  on  a  piece  of  saU 
spread  on  the  floor.  These  last  had  perished  m  con- 
sequence  of  mere  inability  to  make  the  effort  neces- 
s^  for  lifting  and  dressing  the  food ;  and  they  had 
suffered  convulsions  so  dreadful,  that  their  knees  and 
chin  had  come  into  contact,  smd  their  bodies  resem- 
bled a  rounded  block.  ,  ^^      ^ 

The  Dutch  tibout  the  same  time  made  an  attempt 
to  e««tablish  acolonyonthe  island  of  JanMayen,but 
with  a  result  equaUy  fatal.  The  journal  of  the  un- 
fortunate seamen  contains  little  except  a  very  exact 
register  of  the  weather. 

No  farther  attempts  were  made  at  that  tune  to  <»• 


mm 


nSHSRT. 

led,  whose  bodies  the 
n  coflSns.  The  sur- 
irhich  afforded  some 
the  progress  of  the 
jproach  the  hut,  and 
d  the  men  retained 
nals  or  to  drag  home 
ame  ulcerated ;  they 
it ;  and  only  Jerome 
bed  and  kindle  a  fire. 
February ;  but  they 
this  benignant  lumi- 
oumal  is  in  the  fol- 
lur  stretched  on  our 
•uld  eat  willingly,  if 
and  light  a  fire.  We 
ed  hands,  to  deliver 
ipossible  to  prolong 
Lrm  our  frozen  limbs, 
ach  must  support  his 
'  the  fishing  vessels 
■he  hut.  They  found 
ranee  could  onljr  be 
.  They  found  it  a 
nclosed  in  the  coffins 
i;  the  other  four  lay 
)  on  a  piece  of  sau 
;  had  perished  in  con- 
lake  tne  effort  neces- 
food ;  and  they  had 
,  that  their  knees  and 
1  tiheir  bodies  resem- 

ne  made  an  attempt 
id  of  JanMayen,but 
e  journal  of  the  un- 
except  a  very  exact 

ie  at  that  time  to  co* 


NORTHIRIV  WHALX«n;HIRT. 


811 


Ionize  Spitzbergen.  The  next  instance  of  wintering 
on  those  dreary  shores  arose  from  necessity  and  dis- 
aster. A  Russian  vessel,  which  had  sailed  from  Arch- 
angel  for  the  wliale-fishery  in  1743,  being  driven  by 
the  wind  to  the  eastern  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  found 
itself  beset  amid  floating  ice  without  hope  of  deliver- 
ance. One  of  the  party  recollected  that  a  hut  had 
been  erected  on  this  coast  by  some  of  his  countrymen, 
under  the  apprehension  of  being  obliged  to  spend  the 
winter  there.  He  and  three  others  set  out  to  dis- 
cover the  place.  With  much  difficulty  they  reached 
the  shore,  leaping  from  fragment  to  fragment  of 
moving  ice ;  then,  spreading  themselves  in  different 
directions,  they  found  the  cottage,  which,  though 
ruinous,  afforded  shelter  for  the  night.  Early  in  the 
morning  they  hastened  to  the  shore,  to  convey  to  their 
comrades  this  happy  intelligence.  But  what  must 
have  been  their  horror,  when  they  saw  only  a  vast 
open  sea,  without  a  vestige  of  the  ship,  or  even  of  the 
numerous  icebergs  which  had  been  tossing  through 
the  waves !  A  violent  gale  had  dispersed  them  ul, 
and  apparently  also  sunk  the  vessel,  which  was  never 
heard  of  more. 

These  four  unfortunate  seamen,  abandoned  on 
this  dreadful  shore,  having  the  long  winter  to  pass 
without  food,  or  arms  and  implements  to  procure  any, 
did  not,  however,  give  way  to  despair.  They  had  a 
gun  with  which  they  shot  twelve  deer :  then  their 
ammunition  failed;  but  some  pieces  of  iron  were 
found  on  the  shore,  which  they  contrived  to  fashion 
into  pikes.  At  the  moment  when  their  stock  of  ve- 
nison was  nearly  exhausted,  they  found  occasion  to 
employ  these  weapons  against  a  Polar  bear  by  which 
they  were  assailed.  The  animal,  being  vanquished 
and  killed  after  a  formidable  struggle,  supphed  for 
the  present  aU  their  wants.  His  flesh  was  food,  his 
skin  clothing,  his  entrails,  duly  prepared,  furnished 
the  string,  which  alone  had  been  wanting  to  com 
plete  a  bow.    With  that  instrument  they  were  mors 


Ma 


818 


KORTnERir  WBAUE-TIBBIRT. 


than  8  match  for  the  reindeer  and  the  Arotle  finCi 
with  the  spoils  of  which  they  filled  both  their  pantnr 
«pd  their  wardrobe ;  and  thenceforth  they  avoided, 
unless  in  cases  of  necessity,  the  encounter  of  the 
bear.     Being  destitute  of  cooking  utensils,  they 
were  obliged  to  devour  the  food  nearly  raw— dried 
either  by  suspension  in  the  smoke  during  the  long 
winter,  or  by  exposure  to  the  heat  of  the  sun  during 
the  short  summer.    Yet  this  regular  supply  of  fresh 
meat,  and,  iibove  all,  the  constant  exercise  to  which 
necessity  prompted,  enabled  them  to  preserve  their 
health  entire  during  six  years,  in  which  they  looked 
in  vain  for  deliverance.    In  this  time  they  killed  10 
bears,  S60  r-indeer,  ami  a  multitude  of  foxes.    At 
the  end  of  the  six  years  one  of  them  died,  when  the 
three  survivors  sunk  into  despondence.,  giving  up  all 
hopes  of  relief,  and  looking  forward  to  the  moment 
when  the  last  of  them  would  become  the  prey  of 
the  beats.    Suddenly,  on  the  l&th  August,  1749,  they 
descried  a  vessel  at  sea.    They  lighted  fires  on  the 
heights,  hoisted  a  flag  formed  of  reindeer  skins,  and 
were  at  length  discovered  by  the  ship,  which  proved 
to  belong  to  their  native  country.    They  loaded  her 
with  such  a  quantity  of  skins  and  lard  as  enabled 
them  to  pay  eighty  rubles  for  their  passage,  and  af* 
terward  to  make  a  profitable  voyage. 

The  example  thus  involuntarily  set  by  these  Rus- 
sian sailors  has  been  followed,  to  a  considerable  ex- 
tent by  their  coimtrymen,  some  of  whom  have  since 
regularly  wintered  m  huts  on  the  Spitzbergen  coast, 
and  employed  themselves  in  diasmg  the  walrus  and 
seal  dong  the  riiore,  the  deer  and  Arctic  fox  in  the 
interior.  They  are  constantly  engaged  in  hunting, 
unless  whenlntemipted  by  tempest;  and,  even  when 
the  hut  is  blocked  up  with  snow,  they  find  their  way 
out  by  the  chimney.  They  have  a  reserve  of  salt 
provisions;  but  as  much  as  possible  subsist  on  the 
flesh  and  drink  the  warm  blood  of  tlie  reindeer,  dig- 
ging under  the  bbow  for  cochlearia,  sorrel,  and  other 


rand  the  Aretiefin; 
lUed  both  their  pantiy 
;eforth  they  avoided, 
the  encounter  of  the 
oking  utensils,  they 
jd  nearly  raw — dried 
moke  during  the  long 
leat  of  the  sun  during 
egular  supply  of  fresh 
ant  exercise  to  which 
Ihein  to  preserve  their 
in  which  they  looked 
lis  time  they  killed  10 
iltitude  of  foxes.    At 
r  them  died,  when  the 
ondence^  giving  up  all 
irwardto  the  moment 
i  become  the  prey  of 
6th  August,  1749,  they 
iy  lighted  fires  on  the 
of  reindeer  skins,  and 
the  ship,  which  proved 
try.    They  loaded  her 
IS  and  lard  as  enabled 
their  passage,  and  af- 
royage. 

uily  set  by  these  Rub* 
I,  to  a  considerable  ex- 
ne  of  whom  have  since 
the  Spitzbergen  coast, 
shasing  the  walrus  and 
:  and  Arctic  tax  in  the 
y  engaged  in  hunting, 
mpest;  and,  even  when 
t)w,  they  find  their  way 
have  a  reserve  of  salt 
possible  subsist  on  the 
3d  of  tlie  reindeer,  dig- 
leaiia,  sorrel,  and  other 


mmTBSMf  wuLt-mmmf. 


914 


plants  that  act  as  antidotes  to  scurvy.  By  this  regi- 
men they  generally  pnserve  their  health  completely 
unimured,  though  the  British  seamen  employed  in 
whale-fishing  have  occasionally  found  the  dead  body 
of  a  Russian  who  had  fallen  a  victim  to  this  dread- 
ful malady. 

It  is  now  time  to  give  a  general  view  of  the  mode 
of  catching  whales  practised  by  the  two  great  fish- 
ing nations  of  the  present  day,  the  British  and  the 
Dutch. 

The  first  object  is  to  fit  out  a  ship  suited  to  the 
trade.  While  the  fishery  was  carried  on  in  bays,  or 
on  the  txterior  margin  of  icy  fields,  very  slight  fa- 
brics were  sufllcient ;  but  now  that  the  vessels  depart 
early  in  the  season,  and  push  into  the  very  heart  of 
the  northern  ices,  they  are  liable  every  moment  to 
the  most  severe  shocks  and  concussicms.  The  ship, 
therefore,  must  be  constructed  in  such  a  manner  as 
to  possess  a  peculiar  degree  of  strength.  Its  ex- 
posed parts  are  secured  with  double  or  even  treble 
timbers;  while  it  is  fortified,  ob  the  expression  is, 
externally  with  iron  plates,  and  internally  with  stan- 
chions and  cross-bars,  so  disposed  as  to  cause  the 
pressure  on  any  one  part  to  bear  upon  and  be  supported 
by  the  whole  fabric.  Mr.  Scoresby  recommends  the 
dimension  of  360  tons  as  the  most  eligible.  A  ship 
of  this  site  is  sometimes  filled;  and  the  number  of 
men  required  for  ite  lavigation,  being  also  necessary 
for  manning  the  boato  employed  in  the  fishery,  could 
not  be  reduced  even  in  a  much  smaller  vessel.  A 
larger  tonnage  than  360,  being  scarcely  ever  filled, 
uivolves  the  proprietor  in  useless  extra  expense. 
The  Dutch  are  of  opinion,  that  the  vessels  destined 
for  this  fishery  should  be  113  feet  long,  39  broad,  and 
13  deep,  carrying  seven  boats,  and  from  forty  to  fifty 
seamen.  One  of  the  most  essential  particnlars  m 
the  crow's  nest,  a  species  of  sentry-box  made  of 
canvass  or  light  wood,  pitched  on  the  main-topmast, 
or  top-gallantmaat  head.  This  is  the  post  of  ho- 
Dd 


3U 


NOKTHT-       ^ntALI-ruiRRT. 


nour,  and  also  of  severe  cold,  where  the  master  often 
sits  for  hours  in  a  temperature  thirty  or  forty  degrees 
below  the  freezing-point,  and  whence  he  can  descry 
all  the  movements  of  the  surrounding  seas  and  ice, 
and  give  directions  accordingly.  He  is  provided 
with  a  telescope,  a  speaking-trumpet,  and  a  nfle,  with 
which  he  can  sometimes  strike  a  narwal,  as  it  floats 
around  the  ship. 

The  whaling  vessels  usually  take  their  departure 
in  such  time  as  to  leave  the  Shetland  Isles  about 
the  beginning  of  April;  and  before  the  end  of  the 
month  arrive  within  the  Polar  seas.  It  was  long 
customary  to  spend  a  few  weeks  at  what  is  called 
the  Seafisher's  Bight,  extending  along  the  coast  of 
Greenland,  ere  they  pushed  into  those  more  northern 
waters,  where,  amid  fields  and  mountains  of  ice,  tlie 
powerful  and  precious  mysticetiu  is  tossing ;  but  in 
later  times,  it  nas  become  usual  to  sail  at  once  into 
that  centre  of  danger  and  enterprise. 

As  soon  as  they  have  arrived  in  those  seas  which 
are  the  haunt  of  the  whale,  the  crew  must  be  every 
moment  on  the  alert,  keeping  watch  day  and  night. 
The  seven  boats  are  kept  hanging  by  the  sides  of  the 
ship,  ready  to  be  launched  in  a  few  minutes ;  and, 
where  the  state  of  the  sea  admits,  one  of  them  is 
usually  mannted  and  afloat.  These  boats  are  from 
25  to  98  feet  long,  about  6^  feet  broad,  and  constructed 
with  a  special  view  to  lightness,  buoyancy,  and  easy 
steerage.  The  captain  or  some  principal  ofllcer, 
seated  in  the  crow's  nest,  surveys  the  waters  to  a 
great  distance,  and  the  instant  he  sees  the  back  of 
the  huge  animal,  which  they  seek  to  attack,  emerging 
froni  the  waves,  gives  notice  to  the  watch  who  are 
stationed  on  deck  j  part  of  whom  leap  into  a  boat, 
which  is  instantly  lowered  down,  and  followed  by  a 
second,  if  the  fish  be  a  large  one.  Each  of  the  boats 
has  a  harpooner,  and  one  or  two  subordinate  ofllcers, 
and  is  provided  with  an  immense  quantity  of  rope 
coiled  together  and  stowed  in  different  quarters  of 


-^*^^ 


naiRRT. 

ere  the  master  ofton 
lirty  or  forty  degrees 
lence  he  can  descry 
inding  seas  and  icn, 
f'  He  is  provided 
ipet,  and  a  rifle,  with 
t  narwal,  as  it  floats 

;ake  their  departure 
Ihetliind  Idles  about 
fore  the  end  of  the 
seas.  It  was  long 
ks  at  what  is  called 
;  along  the  coast  of 
ihose  more  northern 
lountains  of  ice,  tlie 
\i  is  tossing ;  but  in 
to  sail  at  once  into 
irisp, 

in  those  seas  which 
crew  must  be  every 
atch  day  and  night, 
g  by  the  sides  of  the 

few  minutes ;  and, 
lits,  one  of  them  is 
ese  boats  are  from 
oad,  and  constructed 

buoyancy,  and  easy 
le  principal  oflicer, 
sys  the  waters  to  a 
lie  sees  the  back  of 
.  to  attack,  emerging 

the  watch  who  are 
>m  leap  into  a  boat, 
1,  and  followed  by  a 
Each  of  the  boats 
subordinate  officers, 
ise  quantity  of  rope 
lifferent  quarters  of 


MORTnnuf  WRiai-nsHiRT.  815' 


I 


1  Hud  Harpoon.  9.  Pricker.  a  Blabber  Bptds. 

4.  Oun  Harpoon.  S.  Lance. 


Il« 


NOKTBIRN  WHALK'niHlRT. 


it,  Uie  several  parts  being  apliced  together,  so  aa  to 
form  a  continued  line,  usually  exceeding  four  thou- 
sand feet  in  length.  To  the  end  is  attached  the  hav' 
poon  (Jit.  1),  an  instrument  formed,  not  to  pierce 
and  kill  tne  animal,  but,  by  entering  and  remaining 
fixed  in  the  body,  to  prevent  its  escape.  One  of  the 
boats  is  now  rowed  towards  the  whale  in  the  deepest 
silence,  cautiously  avoiding  to  give  an  alarm,  of 
which  he  is  very  susceptible.  Sometimes  a  circuit 
tons  route  is  adopted  in  order  to  attack  him  from  be- 
hind. Having  approached  as  near  as  is  consistent 
with  safety,  the  narpooner  darts  his  instrument  into 
the  back  of  the  monster.*  This  is  a  critical  mo- 
ment ;  for  when  this  mighty  animal  feels  himself 
struck,  he  often  throws  himself  into  violent  convul- 
sive movements,  vibrating  in  the  air  his  tremendous 
tail,  one  lash  of  which  is  sufficient  to  dash  a  boat  in 
pieces.  More  conunonlv,  however,  he  plunges  with 
rapid  flight  into  the  depths  of  the  sea,  or  beneath  the 
thickest  fields  and  mountains  of  ice.  While  he  is 
thus  moving  at  the  rate  usually  of  eight  or  ten  miles 
an  hour,  the  utmost  diligence  must  be  used  that  the 
line  to  which  the  harpoon  is  attached  may  run  off 
smoothly  and  readily  along  with  him.  Should  it  be 
entangled  for  a  moment,  the  strength  of  the  whale 
is  such,  that  he  would  draw  the  boat  and  crew  after 
him  under  the  waves.  The  first  boat  ought  to  be 
quickly  followed  up  by  a  second  to  supply  more  line 
when  the  first  is  run  out,  which  often  takes  place  in 
eight  or  ten  minutes.  When  the  crew  of  a  boat  see 
the  line  in  danger  of  being  all  run  off,  they  hold  up 
one,  two,  or  three  oars,  to  intimate  their  pressing 
need  of  a  supply.  At  the  same  time  they  turn  the 
rope  once  or  twice  round  a  kind  of  post  called  the 
bollard,  by  which  the  motion  of  the  line  and  the  ca- 
reer  of  the  animal  are  somewhat  retarded.    This, 

*  TIm  htrpoMi  to  laaMllinn  dhwlitrfaii  tnm  •  paeallsr  ipeelM  of 
gM,  tnwhkhcaMUMfonn/r.  4to«fflplogr*dibalUUiiiMd«bM  DM 
MOM  Into  vwy  gweral  UM. 


WIIRT. 

d  together,  so  as  to 
ixceeding  four  thou- 
1  is  attached  the  har- 
rtned,  not  to  pierce 
mng  and  remaining 
escape.  One  of  the 
whale  in  the  deepent 

give  an  alarm,  of 
Sometimes  a  circui- 
attack  him  from  be- 
lear  as  is  consistent 
9  his  instrument  into 
is  is  a  critical  mo- 
nimal  feels  himself 

into  violent  convul- 
9  air  his  tremendous 
ant  to  dash  a  boat  in 
ver,  he  plunges  with 
e  sea,  or  beneath  the 
if  ice.  While  he  is 
of  eight  or  ten  miles 
lUBt  be  used  that  the 
tached  may  run  off 
i  him.  Should  it  be 
rength  of  the  whale 

boat  and  crew  after 
rst  boat  ought  to  be 
1  to  supply  more  line 
often  takes  place  in 
le  crew  of  a  twat  see 
run  off,  they  hold  up 
mate  their  pressing 
I  time  they  turn  the 
id  of  post  called  the 
the  Ime  and  the  ca- 
lat  retarded.    This, 

(Vom  t  paeallsr  ipaeta*  of 
j«d  i  bill  UUi  mod*  bM  DM 


NORliOSRN   WHALK-riSHKRT. 


817 


however,  is  a  delicate  operation,  which  brings  the 
side  of  the  boat  down  to  the  very  edge  of  the  water, 
and  if  the  rope  is  drawn  at  all  too  tight,  may  sink  it 
altogether.  Wliile  the  lino  is  whirling  round  the 
bollard,  the  friction  is  so  violent,  that  the  har* 
pooner  is  enveloped  in  smoke,  and  water  must  be 
constantly  poiued  on  to  prevent  it  from  catching 
fire.  When,  after  all,  no  aid  arrives,  and  the  crew 
find  that  the  line  must  run  out,  they  have  only  one 
resource, — they  cut  it,  losing  thereby  not  only 
the  whale,  but  the  harpoon  and  all  the  ropes  of  the 
boat. 

When  the  whale  is  first  struck  and  plunges  into 
the  waves,  the  boat's  crew  elevate  a  flag  as  a  signal 
to  the  watch  on  deck,  who  give  the  alarm  to  those 
asleep  below,  by  stamping  violently  on  the  deck,  and 
crying  aloud—"  A  fall !  a  fall .'"  (Dutch,  val,  express- 
ing the  precipitate  haste  with  which  the  sailors 
throw  themselves  into  the  boats.)  On  this  notice 
they  do  not  allow  themselves  time  to  dress,  but  rush 
out  in  their  sleeping-shirts  or  drawers  into  an  atmos- 
phere,  the  temperature  of  which  is  often  below  zero, 
carrying  along  witli  them  their  clothing  in  a  bundle, 
and  trusting  to  make  their  toilette  in  the  interval  of 
manning  and  pushing  off  the  boats.  Such  is  tho 
tumult  at  this  moment,  that  young  mariners  have 
been  known  to  raise  cries  of  fear,  thinking  the  ship 
was  going  down. 

The  period  during  which  a  wounded  whale  re- 
mains under  water  is  various,  but  is  averaged  by  Mr. 
Scoresby  at  about  half  an  hoiu-.  Then,  pressed  by 
the  necessity  of  respiration,  he  appears  above,  often 
considerably  distant  from  the  spot  where  he  was  har- 
pooned, and  in  a  state  of  great  exhaustion,  which 
the  same  ingenious  writer  ascribes  to  the  severe 
pressure  that  he  has  endured  when  placed  beneath  a 
column  of  water  700  or  800  fathoms  deep.  All  the 
boats  have  meantime  been  spreading  themselves  in 
various  directions,  that  one  at  least  may  be  within  a 
Dd3 


818 


NOBTntRN.  wRAU-nantiirr. 


ttart,  as  it  !■  ealled,  or  about  ilOO  yards  of  the  point 
of  his  risinif,  at  which  distance  they  can  easily  reach 
and  pierce  him  with  one  or  two  more  harpoons  before 
he  again  descends,  as  he  usually  does  for  a  few 
minute*.  On  his  reappearance  a  ipsneral  attack  is 
made  with  lances  (Sg,  b),  which  are  struck  as  c  ^p 
as  possible,  to  reacn  and  penetrate  the  vital  paits. 
liluod  mixed  with  oil  streams  copiously  from  his 
wounds  and  from  the  blow-holes,  dying;  the  sea  to 
a  great  distance,  and  sprinkling,  and  sometimes 
drenching  the  boats  and  crews.  The  animal  now 
becomes  more  and  more  exhausted;  but,  at  the 
approach  of  his  dissolution,  he  often  makes  a  con- 
vulsive and  energetic  struggle,  rearing  his  tail  high 
in  Uu3  air,  and  whirling  it  with  a  noise  which  is  heard 
at  the  distance  of  several  miles.  At  lengtli,  quite 
overpowered  and  exhausted,  he  lays  himself  r>n  his 
side  or  back,  and  expires.  The  ff?g  is  then  taken 
down,  and  three  loud  huzzas  raised  from  the  sur- 
rounding boats.  No  time  is  lost  in  piercing  the  tail 
with  two  holes,  through  which  roues  are  passed 
which,  being  fastened  to  the  boats,  drag  the  fish  t«: 
the  vessel  amid  shouts  of  Joy. 

The  whale  being  thus  caught  and  secured  to  the 
Bides  of  the  ship,  the  next  operation  is  that  otjleni- 
ing,  or  extracting  the  blubber  and  whalebone.  This, 
if  the  full  strength  of  the  ship  be  put  upon  it,  may 
be  executed  in  about  four  hours,  though  a  much 
longer  time  is  often  employed.  The  captain  goes 
round  and  gives  a  dram  to  each  seaman,  with  double 
allowance  to  important  personages  called  the  kings 
of  tlie  blubber  (Dutch  ^ck-konMg),  whose  office  it 
is  to  receive  that  precious  commodity,  and  stow  it 
in  the  hold.  Anotner  high  functionary,  called  the 
tptduioneer,  has  the  direction  of  all  the  cutting 
operations.  The  dist  step  is  to  form  round  the  fish, 
between  the  neck  and  the  fins,  a  circle  called  the 
kmt,  arotmd  which  all  proceedings  are  to  be  con> 
ducted.    To  it  is  fastened  &  macluneiy  uf  blocks, 


If 
to 


nsntii?. 

10  yards  of  the  potat 
th«y  can  easily  reach 
lore  harpoons  before 
illy  does  for  a  few 
a  general  attark  is 
;h  are  struck  as  c  ^ep 
trute  the  vital  paits. 
copiously  from  his 
les,  dying  the  sea  to 
ittg,  and  sometimes 
I.  The  animal  now 
auRted;  but,  at  the 
often  makes  a  con- 
rearing  his  tail  hig^ 
noise  which  is  heard 
98.  At  length,  quite 
lavs  himself  on  his 
!  ff?g  is  then  taken 
raised  from  the  sur- 
al in  piercing  the  tail 
h  ropes  are  passed, 
its,  drag  the  fish  to 

and  secured  to  the 
ition  is  that  otfleni- 
id  whalebone.   This, 

be  put  upon  it,  may 
urs,  though  a  much 
The  captain  goes 
seaman,  with  double 
i^es  called  the  kings 
wag),  whose  office  it 
unodity,  and  stow  it 
ictionary,  called  the 

of  all  the  cutting 

form  round  the  fish, 
I,  a  circle  called  the 
ings  are  to  be  con- 
lacliineiy  uf  blocka, 


NonTinmir  wHAti-mmKr. 


a  10 


Mikd  the  kent-uurchase,  by  which,  with  the  aid  of 
a  windlnaa,  the  body  of  the  whale  can  be  turned  on 
all  sides.  The  harpoone-rs  then,  under  the  speck- 
sioueer's  direction,  begm  with  a  kind  of  spade  (Jig. 
3),  and  with  huge  knives,  to  tnakc  l<mg  parnllel  cuts 
from  end  to  eno,  which  are  divided  by  cross-cuts  into 
pieces  of  about  half  a  ton.  These  are  conveyed  on 
deck,  and,  bein;  'educed  into  smaller  portions,  are 
received  by  two  kings,  who  stow  them  in  the  hold. 
Finally,  being  by  other  procHMcs  still  farthur  divided, 
it  is  received  into  casks,  and  the  packing  completed 
by  the  instrument  No.  3.  As  soon  as  the  «;utting 
officers  have  cleared  the  whole  surface  lying  above 
water,  which  does  not  exceed  a  fourth  or  a  flfth  of 
the  animal,  the  kent  machinery  is  applieil,  and  turns 
the  carcass  round,  till  another  part,  yet  untouched, 
is  presented.  This  being  also  cleared,  the  mass  is 
again  turned,  and  so  on,  till  the  whole  has  been  ex- 
posed, and  the  blubber  removed.  The  kcnt  itself  is 
then  stripped,  and  the  bones  of  the  head  being  con- 
veyed on  board,  there  remains  only  the  krtng,  a  huge 
heap  of  fleshy  and  muscular  substance,  which  is 
abandoned,  either  to  sink,  or  be  devoured  by  the 
flocks  of  ravenous  birds  and  sharks  whioii  duly 
attend  on  this  high  occasion.  The  blubber,  now 
deposited  in  the  hold,  is  by  various  processes  cleared 
of  its  impurities,  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  deposited 
in  casks.  While  the  Dutch  establishment  of  8mee- 
renberg  flourished,  tliey  extracted  tlie  oil  in  immense 
boilers,  constructed  there  for  this  purpose ;  but  when 
the  flshery  was  transferred  to  the  icy  banks  in  the 
open  sea,  this  operation  was  necessarily  deferred 
till  the  cargoes  were  deposited  in  the  Dutch  or 
British  ports. 

The  success  of  the  fisheiy  varies  with  the  spot  in 
whirh  whales  are  found.  The  most  advant^ous 
that  the  Greenland  seas  aflbrd  has  been  considered 
to  be  on  the  border  of  those  immense  fields  of  ice, 
with  which  a  gieat  extent  of  them  is  covered.    In 


830 


NORTHBRN  WHALE-FISBERT 


the  open  sea,  when  a  whale  ia  struc!:,  and  plunges 
beneath  the  waters,  he  may  rise  in  any  part  of  a 
wide  circuit,  and  at  any  distance  from  the  boats ;  so 
that,  before  a  second  harpoon  can  be  struck,  he  may 
plunge  again,  and  by  continued  struggles  effect  his 
extrication.  But  in  descending  beneath  these  im- 
mense fields,  he  is  hemmed  in  by  the  icy  floor  above, 
and  can  only  find  an  aw.wsphere  to  breathe  b]^ 
returning  to  their  outer  boundary.  The  space  in 
which  he  can  rise  is  thus  contracted  from  a  large 
circle  to  a  semicircle,  or  even  smaller  segment. 
Hence  a  whale  in  this  position  is  attacked  with  much 
better  chance  of  success ;  even  two  may  be  pursued 
at  the  same  moment, — a  measure  which,  in  the  open 
sea,  often  involves  the  loss  of  both.  In  the  flourish- 
ing state  of  the  Dutch  fishery,  a  hundred  of  their 
vessels  have  been  seen  at  once  ranged  on  tiiemargia 
of  one  of  those  immense  fields,  along  which  the  boatu 
formed  so  continuous  a  line  that  no  whale  could  rise 
without  being  immediately  struck.  This  situation, 
at  the  same  time,  is  attended  with  considerable  danger 
from  the  disruptions  and  concussions  to  which  these 
plains  are  liable. 

When  the  ship  is  surrounded  with  floating  frag- 
ments of  ice,  the  fishery,  though  difiicult,  is  usually 
productive.  But  the  case  is  very  different  when 
these  pieces  are  packed  together  into  a  mass  im-- 

Servious  to  ships  or  boats,  yet  leaving  numerous 
oles  or  openings,  through  which  the  whale  can 
mount  and  respire,  without  coming  to  the  open 
margin,  or  within  reach  of  his  assailants.  The  fish- 
ers, when  they  see  the  whale  blowing  through  one 
of  these  apertures,  must  alight  on  the  ice,  and  run. 
full  speed  to  the  spot  with  lance  and  harpoon.  At- 
tack in  such  circumstances,  however,  is  both  difii- 
cult and  perilous ;  and  even  when  the  whale  is  killed, 
the  dragging  of  Ids  body  either  under  or  over  th» 
ce  to  the  ship  is  a  most  tedious  and  laborious  task, 
which  sometimes  cannot  be  effected  without  outting 
ihe  carcass  in  pieces 


tWnli^'iiMt  ^SMMWWW 


£-n8BERT 

is  struc'.:,  and  plunges 
rise  in  any  part  of  q 
lice  from  the  boats ;  so 
I  can  be  struck,  he  may 
led  struggles  effect  his 
iing  beneath  these  im- 
i  by  the  icy  floor  above, 
>sphere  to  breathe  b]^ 
mdary.  The  space  in 
contracted  from  a  large 
iven  smaller  segment. 
1  is  attacked  with  much 
en  two  may  be  pursued 
sure  which,  in  the  open 
f  both.  In  the  flourish- 
ry,  a  hundred  of  their 
:e  ranged  on  the  margit 
3,  along  which  the  boatu 
hat  no  whale  could  rise 
truck.  This  situation, 
fith  considerable  danger 
sussions  to  which  these 

led  with  floating  frag> 
ugh  difficult,  is  usually 
i  very  different  when 
ither  into  a  mass  im>- 
yet  leaving  numerous 
which  the  whale  can 
:  coming  to  the  open 
3  assailants.  The  iish- 
I  blowing  through  on? 
ht  on  the  ice,  and  run. 
nee  and  harpoon.  At- 
however,  is  both  diffi- 
^hen  the  whale  is  killed, 
her  under  or  over  th« 
lus  and  laborious  task, 
ffectsd  without  outting 


NORTHERN  WHALB-VISHKRT. 


881 


M^en  the  great  fields,  in  the  progress  of  the  tea- 
eon,  become  open  at  various  points,  the  fishery  be- 
comes liable  to  the  same  evils  as  occur  among  packed 
ice.  Still  worse  is  the  case  when  the  sea  is  over- 
spread with  that  thin  newly-formed  crust  called  bay- 
ice.  The  whale  easUy  finds  or  beats  a  hole  through 
this  covering,  while  neither  can  the  boats  penetrate, 
nor  the  men  walk  over  it,  without  the  most  immi- 
nent danger.  Yet  Mr.  Scoresby  mentions  a  plan  by 
which  he  continued  to  carry  on  his  movements,  even 
over  a  very  slender  surface  of  bay-ice.  He  tied  to- 
gether his  whole  crew,  and  made  them  thus  walk 
in  a  long  line  one  behind  another.  There  never  fell 
in  above  four  or  five  at  a  time,  who  Were  easily 
helped  out  by  the  rest.  The  sufferers  had  a  dram  to 
console  them  after  their  cold  plunge ;  and  the  com- 
pensation was  considered  so  ample,  that  Jack  was 
suspected  of  sometimes  allowing  himself  to  drop  in 
with  the  view  of  being  thus  indenuiifled. 

Another  grand  distinction  re^wcts,  first,  the  Green- 
land fishery,  which,  generally  speaking,  is  that  al- 
ready described,  and  is  chiefly  distinguished  by  the 
immense  fields  of  ice  which  cover  the  ocean ;  and, 
secondly,  the  Davis's  Strait  fishery,  where  that  ele- 
ment appears  chiefly  in  the  form  of  moving  moun- 
tains, tossing  through  the  deep.  This  last  is  arduous 
and  dangerous,  but  usually  productive.  It  com- 
menced at  a  comparatively  late  period,  since  it  is 
not  mentioned  by  the  Dutch  writers  prior  to  1719  ; 
and  Mr.  Scoresby  has  been  unable  to  ascertain  the 
date  when  it  was  begun  by  the  British.  Within 
these  few  years  it  has  expenenced  a  remarkable  ex- 
tension, of  which  a  full  account  will  be  given  in  the 
course  of  this  chapter. 

The  dangers  of  the  whale-fishery,  in  spite  of  the 
utmost  care,  and  under  the  direction  even  of  the 
most  experienced  mariners,  are  imminent  and  ma- 
nifold. 

The  most  obvious  peril  is  that  of  ihe  ship  being 


822 


NORTHERN  WHALE-nSHSRT. 


beset  and  sometimes  clashed  to  pieces  by  the  approach 
and  collision  of  those  mighty  Aelds  and  mowitains 
of  ice  wiUi  which  those  seas  are  continually  filled. 
The  Dutch  writers  mention  many  of  these  ship- 
wrecks, among  which  the  following  are  the  most  re- 
markable. 

Didier  Albert  Raven,  in  1639,  when  on  the  bor- 
der of  the  Spitzbergen  ice,  was  assailed  by  a  furious 
tempest.  Though  the  ship  was  violently  agitated, 
he  succeeded  in  steering  her  clear  of  the  great  bank, 
and  thought  himself  in  comparative  safety,  when 
there  appeared  before  him  two  immense  bergs,  upon 
which  tiie  wind  was  violently  driving  his  vessel.  He 
endeavoured,  by  spreading  all  his  sails,  to  penetrate 
between  them;  but  in  this  attempt  the  ship  was 
borne  against  one  with  so  terrible  a  shock,  that  it 
was  soon  felt  to  be  sinking.  By  cutting  the  masts 
the  mariners  enabled  her  to  proceed ;  yet,  as  she  con- 
tinued to  take  in  water,  several  boats  were  launched, 
which,  being  over-crowded,  sunk,  and  all  on  board 
perished.  Those  left  in  the  ship  found  their  condi- 
tion more  and  more  desperate.  The  forepart  of 
the  vessel  being  deep  in  the  water,  and  the  keel 
rising  almost  perpendicular,  made  it  extremely  diffi- 
cult to  avoid  faUing  into  the  sea ;  while  a  mast,  to 
which  a  number  had  clung,  broke,  plunged  down, 
and  involved  them  in  the  fate  of  their  unfortunate 
companions.  At  length,  the  stem  separated  from 
tiie  rest  of  the  vessel,  carrying  with  it  several  more 
of  the  sailors.  The  survivors  still  clung  to  the 
wretched  fragments,  but  one  after  another  was 
washed  off  by  the  fury  of  the  waves,  whOe  some,  half 
dead  with  cold,  and  unable  to  retain  their  grasp  of 
the  ropes  and  anchors,  dropped  in.  The  crew  of 
eighty-six  was  thus  reduced  to  twenty-nine,  when 
the  ship  suddenly  changed  its  position,  and  assumed 
one  in  which  they  could  more  easily  keep  their  foot- 
ing on  board.  The  sea  then  calmed,  and  during 
the  recite  thus  afforded  they.felt  an  irresistible  \fi\>* 


mi^nmmnmhfi'^.ii^l^Sm^j^mmsgm 


i-nsHSRr. 

pieces  by  the  approach 
fields  and  mountains 
are  continually  filled, 
many  of  these  ship- 
>wing  are  the  most  re- 

39,  when  on  the  bor- 
)  assailed  by  a  furious 
as  violently  agitated, 
lear  of  the  great  bank, 
)arative  safety,  when 
I  immense  bergs,  upon 
riving  his  vessel.  He 
his  sails,  to  penetrate 
ittempt  the  ship  was 
rrible  a  shock,  that  it 
By  cutting  the  masts 
iceed;  yet,  as  she  con- 
1  boats  were  launched, 
mk,  and  all  on  board 
hip  found  their  condi- 
atte.     The  forepart  of 

water,  and  the  keel 
ade  it  extremely  diffi- 
sea ;  while  a  mast,  to 
broke,  plunged  down, 
e  of  dieir  unfortunate 

stem  separated  from 
r  with  it  several  more 
rs  still  clung  to  the 
le  after  another  was 
raves,  whQe  some,  half 

retain  their  grasp  of 
jed  in.  The  crew  of 
to  twenty-nine,  when 
position,  and  assumed 
easily  keep  their  foot- 
n  calmed,  and  during 
felt  an  irresistible  }f\\f 


KORTHXRN  WBALK-FISHERTt 


838 


pensity  to  sleep ;  but  to  some  it  was  the  fatal  sleep 
of  extreme  cold,  from  which  they  uf  er  awok& 
One  man  suggested  the  construction  of  a  raft,  which 
was  accordingly  framed,  contrary  to  the  captain's 
advice ;  happily,  no  sooner  was  it  launched  than  the 
waves  swallowed  it  up.  The  remnant  of  the  vesse. 
encountered  next  night  another  severe  gale  j  and  tha 
sufferings  of  the  crew,  from  cold,  hunger,  and  burn- 
ing thirst,  were  so  extreme,  that  death  in  every  form 
seemed  now  to  have  encompassed  them.  In  the 
morning,  however,  a  sail  was  descried,  their  signals 
were  understood,  and  being  taken  on  board,  twenty 
survivors,  after  forty-eight  hours  of  this  extreme 
distress,  were  restored  to  safety. 

In  1670  the  Blecker  (Bleacher),  Captain  Pit,  was 
driven  against  the  ice  with  such  violence,  that  in  an 
instant  sdl  her  rigging  was  dashed  in  pieces.  Soon 
after,  twenty-nine  of  the  crew  quitted  the  vessel,  and* 
leaping  by  the  help  of  poles  and  perches  from 
one  fragment  of  ice  to  another,  contnved  to  reach 
the  main  field.  Tlie  captain  with  seven  men  re- 
mained on  board,  and  endeavoured  to  open  a  pas* 
sage ;  but  soon  after  the  ship  again  struck,  when  they 
were  obliged  to  go  into  a  boat,  and  commit  them* 
selves  to  chance,  the  snow  falling  so  thick  that  they 
could  scarcely  see  each  other.  As  the  weather 
cleared,  they  (Uscovered  their  companions  on  the  ice, 
who  threw  a  whale-line,  and  dragged  them  to  the 
same  spot.  There,  the  party  having  waited  twelve 
hours  in  hopes  of  relief,  at  length  trusted  themselves 
to  the  boats,  and  in  twelve  hours  were  taken  up  by 
a  Dutch  vessel. 

Captain  Bille,  in  1675,  lost  a  ship  richly  laden, 
which  went  down  suddenly ;  after  which  the  crew 
wandered  in  boats  over  the  sea  for  fourteen  days 
before  they  were  taken  up.  Thirteen  other  vessels 
perished  that  year  in  the  Spitzbergen  seas.  Three 
seasons  afterward  Captain  Bille  lost  a  second  ship 
by  the  violent  concussion  of  the  ice,  the  crew  having 


«34 


MMTHIKN  WBAtK'Minm. 


Just  time  to  save  themselves  on  a  frozen  field.  At 
the  moment  of  their  disaster  they  were  moored  to  a 
large  floe,  along  with  another,  a  brig  called  the  Red 
Fox;  which  last  shortly  afterward  underwent  a 
similar  fate,  being  struckwith  such  violence,  that  the 
whole,  hull  and  masts  together,  disappeared  almost 
in  an  instant,— the  sailors,  like  Captain  Bille's  com* 
^y,  having  had  merely  time  to  leap  on  the  ice. 
The  united  crews  now  adopted  various  plans ;  some 
keeping  their  station,  others  setting  out  in  boats  in 
different  directions ;  but  all,  in  one  way  or  other, 
reached  home.  The  same  year  the  Concord  went 
down  in  an  equally  sudden  manner ;  but  the  crew 
were  happily  taken  up  by  a  neighbouring  ship. 

The  whale-fishery  is  not  more  distinguished  for 
examples  of  sudden  peril  and  besetment  thai),  for 
unexpected  deliverance  from  the  most  alarming 
situations. 

Three  Dutch  ahips,  in  1676,  after  having  completed 
a  rich  cargo  on  the  northern  coast  of  Spitzbergent 
were  at  once  so  completely  beset,  that  the  crews  in 
^neral  urged  the  necessity  of  proceeding  over  the 
ice,  and  endeavouring  to  reach  some  other  vessel. 
Ouvekees,  however,  captain  of  one  of  tiie  three, 
strongly  urged  the  obligation  of  doing  all  in  their 
power  to  preserve  such  valuable  property,  and  they 
agreed  to  make  a  farther  trial ;  when,  in  twenty  days, 
the  ice  opened,  and  they  had  a  happy  voyage  home- 
ward. 

The  Dame  Maria  Elizabeth,  in  1769,  had  set  out 
early  for  the  fishery,  and  was  so  fortunate  as,  by  the 
30th  of  May,  to  have  taken  fourteen  whales.  iTien, 
however,  a  violent  gale  from  the  south  blew  In  the 
ice  with  such  violence,  that  the  captain  found  him- 
self completely  beset,  and  saw  two  Dutch  vessels 
and  one  Eng^sh  go  to  pieces  at  a  little  distance.  At 
loisth  a  brisk  gale  from  the  north  gave  him  the  hope 
•f  being  extricated ;  when  presently  he  was  involved 
^  a  dense  fog,  which  froze  so  thick  upon  the  sail* 


■WIWi 


•ui-;'Vt!:i-  J-'KBSSiWSsi&i' 


^'^y^^^W^^l^i^S^II^^ 


»i- 


m  a  frozen  field.  At 
ley  were  moored  to  a 
I  brig  called  the  Red 
irward  underwent  a 
uch  violence,  that  the 
r,  disappeared  almost 
Captain  Bille's  com* 

to  leap  on  the  ice. 
various  plans ;  some 
Uing  out  in  boats  in 
1  one  way  or  other, 
ir  the  Concord  went 
anner;  but  the  crew 
Bfhbouring  ship. 
i>re  distinguisned  for 
I  besetment  thao,  for 

the  most  alarming 

Iter  having  completed 
ioast  of  Spitzbergent 
et,  that  the  crews  in 
proceeding  over  the 
some  other  vessel, 
if  one  of  the  three, 
>f  doing  all  in  their 
e  property,  and  they 
vhen,  in  twenty  days, 
happy  voyage  home- 
in  1769,  had  set  out 
0  fortunate  as,  W  the 
-teen  whales.  Then« 
le  south  blew  in  the 
captain  found  him- 
two  Dutch  vessels 
a  little  distance.  At 
th  gave  him  the  hope 
mtlv  he  was  involved 
Mck  upon  the  saihr 


NORTBEKN  WHALI-FISHERT. 


82» 


and  Tigging,  that  the  ship  appeared  a  mere  floating 
iceberg.  As  the  atmosphere  cleared,  tlie  faint  light, 
and  the  birds  winging  their  way  to  the  southward, 
announced  the  closing  in  of  winter.  Unable  to  malte 
any  progress,  the  seamen  looked  forward  in  despair 
to  the  prospect  of  spending  the  season  in  that  frozen 
latitude.  They  had  nearly  come  to  the  end  of  their 
provisions,  and  famine  was  already  staring  them  in 
the  face,  when  they  thought  of  broiling  the  whales' 
tails,  which  proved,  very  eatable,  and  even  salutary 
against  the  scurvy.  Thus  they  hoped  to  exist  till  the 
middle  of  February,  beyond  which  the  prospect  was 
very  dismal ;  but  on  the  12th  November  there  arose 
a  violent  north  wind,  which  dispersed  the  ice.  Their 
hopes  being  now  awakened,  every  effort  was  strained ; 
and  on  the  18th  a  north-wester  brought  on  so  heavy 
a  rain,  that  next  day  they  were  entirely  clear  of  the 
ice,  and  had  a  prosperous  voyage  homeward. 

The  year  1777  was  one  wliich  exhibited,  on  the 
greatest  scale,  all  the  vicissitudes  of  this  occupation. 
Captain  Brocrties,  in  the  Guillamine,  arrived  that 
year  on  the  22d  June  at  the  great  bank  of  northern 
ice,  where  he  found  fifty  vessels  moored  and  busied 
in  the  fishery.  He  be.:?an  it  prosperously:  the  very 
next  day  indeed  he  killed  a  large  whale.  The  day 
after,  a  tempest  drove  in  the  ice  with  such  violence 
that  twenty-seven  of  the  ships  were  beset,  of  which 
ten  were  lost.  Broerties,  on  the  25th  July,  seeing 
some  appearance  of  an  opening,  caused  the  GuiUa- 
mine  to  be  warped  through  by  the  boats;  but,  after 
four  days'  labour,  she  found  herself,  with  four  other 
ships,  in  a  narrow  basin,  enclosed  by  icy  barriers  on 
every  side.  The  captain,  foreseeing  the  danger  of 
permanent  besetment,  obliged  the  crew  to  submit  to 
a  diminution  of  their  rations. 

On  the  Ist  August  the  ice  began  to  gather  thick, 
and  a  violent  storm  driving  it  against  the  vessels, 
placed  them  in  the  greatest  peril  for  a  number  of  days. 
On  the  20th  a  dreadful  gale  arose  from  the  north- 


S20 


irORTRXRlV  WHALX-nSRKRT. 


ea«t,  in  which  the  Guillamine  suffered  very  comide* 
i^le  damage.  In  this  awful  tempest,  out  of  the  five 
■hips  two  went  down,  while  a  tnird  had  sprung  a 
number  of  leaks.  The  crews  were  taken  on  board 
of  the  two  remaining  barks,  which  they  greatly  in 
commoded.  On  the  25th  all  the  three  were  com 
pletely  frozen  in,  when  U  was  resolved  to  send  a 
part"  of  ♦  •  9 men  to  seek  aid  from  four  vessels 
w'       a  lys  before  had  been  driven  lu- 

ti>...  i  a  l*  distance ;  but  by  the  tiu  .i  iheir 
arrival  two  o»  tiiese  had  been  dashed  to  pieces,  and 
the  other  two  were  in  the  most  deplorable  condition. 
Two  Hamburgh  ships,  somewhat  farther  removed, 
had  perished  m  a  similar  manner.  Meantime  the 
former  came  in  sight  of  Gale  Hamkes'  Land,  in 
Greenland,  and  the  tempest  still  pushing  them  gra- 
duaUy  to  the  southward,  Iceland  at  length  appeared 
on  their  left.  The  two  more  distant  ones,  com- 
manded by  Dirk  Broer  and  Roel  of  Meyer,  found  a 
little  opening,  through  which  they  contrived  to  escape. 
The  crews  of  the  three  othere  were  beginning  to 
hope  that  they  might  at  last  be  equally  fortunate, 
when,  on  the  13th  September,  a  whole  mountain  of 
ice  fell  upon  the  Guillamine.  The  men,  half  naked, 
leaped  out  upon  the  frozen  surface,  saving  with 
difficulty  a  small  portion  of  their  provisions.  The 
broken  remnants  of  ihe  vessel  were  soon  buried 
under  enormous  piles  of  ice.  Of  the  two  other 
■hips,  one  commanded  by  Jeldert  Janz  had  just  met 
a  similar  fate,  and  there  remained  only  that  of  Jans 
Castricum,  to  which  all  now  looked  for  refuge.  By 
leaping  from  one  fragment  of  ice  to  another,  the 
men,  not  without  danger,  contrived  to  reach  this 
vessel,  which,  though  in  extreme  distress,  received 
^hem  on  board.  Shattered  and  overcrowded,  she  was 
obliged  immediately  after  to  accommodate  fifty  other 
■eamen,  the  crew  of  the  Janz  Christiaanz  or  Ham- 
burgh, which  had  just  gone  down,  the  chief  hai 
pooner  and  twelve  of  the  mariners  having  perished 


^m 


-nsiRRr. 

luffered  very  comide* 
empest,  out  of  the  five 

I  third  had  sprung  a 
were  taken  on  board 
rhich  they  ^eatly  in 
the  three  were  com 

resolved  to  send  a 
id  from  four  vessels 
Ben  driven  ^u- 

by  the  tiu  ^i  iheir 
lashed  to  pieces,  and 
t  deplorable  condition, 
'hat  farther  removed, 
nner.  Meantime  the 
le  Hamkes'  Land,  in 

II  pushing  them  gra- 
id  at  length  appeared 
e  distant  ones,  com- 
oel  of  Meyer,  found  a 
sy  contrived  to  escape. 
»  were  beginning  to 
be  equally  fortunate, 
i  whole  mountain  of 
The  men,  half  naked, 
surface,  saving  with 
leir  provisions.  The 
»l  were  soon  buried 
.  Of  the  two  other 
ert  Janz  had  just  met 
led  only  that  of  Jans 
oked  for  refuse.  By 
r  ice  to  another,  the 
rtrived  to  reach  this 
me  distress,  received 
Dvercrowded,she  was 
:ommodate  fifty  other 
Christiaanz  of  Haln« 
lown,  the  chief  hai 
iiers  having  perished 


NORTHXftN  WHALX-riSBlRT. 


837 


These  numerous  companies,  squeezed  into  the  crazy 
bark  of  Castricum,  suffered  every  kind  of  distress. 
Famine,  In  its  most  direful  forms,  began  to  stare  them 
in  the  face.  All  remoter  fears,  however,  gave  way, 
when  on  the  11th  October,  the  vessel  went  to  pieces 
in  the  same  sudden  manner  as  the  others,  leaving  to 
the  unfortunate  sailors  scarcely  time  enough  to  leap 
upn  the  ice  with  their  remaining  stores,  with  great 
difficulty  they  reached  a  field  of  some  extent,  and 
contrived  with  their  torn  sails  to  rear  a  sort  of  co- 
vering ;  but,  sensible  that,  by  remaining  on  this  deso- 
late  spot,  they  must  certainly  perish,  they  saw  no 
safety  except  in  scrambling  over  the  frozen  surface 
to  the  coast  of  Greenland,  which  was  in  view.  With 
infinite  toil  they  effected  their  object,  and  happily 
met  some  inhabitants,  who  received  them  hospitaoly, 
and  regaled  them  with  dried  fish  and  seals'  flesh. 
Thence  they  pushed  across  that  dreary  region,  treated 
sometimes  well,  sometimes  churlishly ;  but  by  one 
means  or  other  they  succeeded  at  length,  on  the  13th 
March,  in  reaching  the  Danish  settlement  of  Frede. 
rikshaab.  Here  they  were  received  with  the  utmost 
kindness,  and,  being  recruited  from  their  fatigues, 
took  the  first  opportunity  of  embarking  for  Denmark, 
whence  they  afterward  sailed  to  their  native  country. 

The  Davis's  Strait  fishery  has  also  been  marked 
w  th  very  frequent  and  fatal  shipwrecks.  In  1814 
the  Royalist,  Captain  Edmonds,  perished  with  all  her 
crew;  and  in  1817,  the  London,  Captain  Mathews, 
shared  the  same  fate.  The  only  account  of  either 
of  these  ships  ever  received  was  from  Captain  Ben- 
net  of  the  Venerable,  who,  on  the  15th  April,  saw 
the  London  in  a  tremendous  storm,  lying  to  wind- 
ward of  an  extensive  chain  of  icebergs,  among 
which,  it  is  probable  she  was  dashed  to  pieces  that 
very  evening.  Large  contributions  were  raised  at 
Hull  for  the  widows  and  families  of  the  seamen  who 
had  suffered  on  these  melancholy  occasions. 

Among  accidents  4m  a  smaller  scale,  one  of  tba 


* 


tS^SSEL 


838 


MORTinRN  WHAlK-rWKEllY. 


most  freqnont  is,  that  of  boats  employed  m  pursuit 
of  the  whale  being  overtaken  by  deep  fogs  or  storms 
of  snow,  which  separate  them  from  the  ship,  and 
never  allow  them  to  regain  it.    A  fatai  mstance  of 
this  kind  occurred  to  the  Ipswich,  Cantain  Gordon ; 
four  of  whose  boats,  after  a  whale  had  been  caught, 
and  even  brought  to  the  ship's  side,  were  employed 
on  a  piece  of  ice  hauling  in  the  line,  when  a  storm 
suddenly  arose,  caused  the  vessel  to  drift  away,  and 
prevented  her,  notwithstanding  the  utmost  efforts, 
from  ever  coming  within  reach  of  the  unfortunate 
crews  who  composed  the  greater  part  of  her  esta- 
blishment.   Mr.  Scorcsby  mentions  several  casual- 
ties  of  the  same  nature  which  occurred  to  his  boats 
companies,  all  of  whom,  however,  in  the  end,  hap. 
pily  found  their  way  back.    One  of  the  most  alanm 
ing  cases  was  that  of  fourteen  men  who  were  left 
on  a  small  piece  of  floating  ice,  with  a  boat  wholly 
unable  lo  witlistand  the  surrounding  tempest;  but 
amid  their  utmost  despair  they  fell  in  with  the  Lively 
of  Whitby,  and  were  most  cordially  received  on 
boftrd* 

Tlie  source,  howsver,  of  the  most  constant  ala. 
to  the  whale-fisher  is  connected  with  the  movements 
of  that  powerful  animal,  against  which,  with  most 
unequal  strength,  he  ventures  to  contend.     Gene- 
rally, indeed,  the  whale,  notwithstanding  his  im- 
mense strength,  ifc  gentle,  and  even  passive ;  seeking, 
even  whon  he  is  most  hotly  pursued,  to  escape  from 
his  assailants,  by  plunging  into  the  lowest  depths  of 
the  ocean.      Sometimes,  however,  he  exerts  his 
utmost  force  in  violent  and  convulsive  struggles; 
and  every  thing  with  which,  when  thus  enraged,  he 
comes  into  collision,  is  dissipated  or  destroyed  man 
instant.  The  Dutch  writers  mention  Jacquez  Vienkes 
of  the  Gort  Moolen  (Barley  Mill),  who,  after  a  whale 
had  been  stnick,  was  hastening  with  a  second  boat 
to  the  support  of  the  first.    The  fish,  however,  rose, 
and  with  its  head  struck  the  boat  so  furiously,  that 


■nSHIEIlT. 

employed  in  pursuit 
y  deep  fogs  or  storms 
1  from  the  ship,  and 
A  fatal  instance  of 
ich,  Captain  Gordon ; 
hale  had  been  caught, 

side,  were  employed 
le  line,  when  a  storm 
isel  to  drift  away,  and 
g  the  utmost  efforts, 
5h  of  the  unfortunate 
Iter  part  of  her  esta- 
ntions  several  casual- 
occurred  to  his  boats* 
Bver,  in  the  end,  hap- 
ine  of  the  most  alarm 
en  men  who  were  left 
•c,  with  a  boat  wholly 
ounding  tempest;  but 

fell  in  with  the  Lively 
cordially  received  on 

e  most  constant  ala> 
d  with  the  movements 
inst  which,  with  most 
s  to  contend.  Gene- 
twithstauding  his  im> 
even  passive ;  seeking, 
)ursued,to  escape  from 
to  the  lowest  depths  of 
(wever,  he  exerts  his 
convulsive  struggles; 
when  thus  enraged,  he 
ated  or  destroyed  in  an 
ention  Jacquez  Vienkes 
lill),  who,  after  a  whale 
ling  with  a  second  boat 
rhe  fish,  however,  rose, 
boat  so  furiously,  that 


NORTHERN   WHALE-riSHXRY. 


830 


it  was  shivered  to  pieces,  and  Vienkes  was  thrown 
with  its  fVagments  on  the  back  of  the  huge  animal. 
Even  then  this  bold  mariner  darted  a  second  har- 
poon into  the  body  of  his  victim ;  but  unfortunately 
ne  got  entangled  in  the  line  and  could  not  extricate 
himself,  while  the  other  party  were  unable  to  ap- 
proach near  enough  to  save  him.  At  last,  however, 
the  harpoon  was  disengaged,  and  he  swam  to  the 
boat. 

Mr.  Scoresby,  in  one  of  his  earliest  vovages,  saw 
a  boat  thrown  several  yards  into  the  air,  from  which 
it  fell  on  its  side,  plunging  the  crew  into  the  sea. 
They  were  happily  taken  up,  when  only  one  was 
found  to  have  received  a  severe  contusion.  Captain 
Lyons  of  the  Raith  of  Leith,  on  the  Labrador  coast, 
in  1802,  had  a  boat  thrown  fifteen  feet  into  the  air ; 
it  came  down  into  the  water  with  its  keel  upwards, 
yet  all  the  men  except  one  were  saved. 

The  crew  of  Mr.  Scoresby  the  elder,  in  1807,  had 
struck  a  whale,  which  soon  reappeared,  but  in  a 
state  of  such  violent  agitation  that  no  one  durst  ap- 
proach it.  The  captain  courageously  undertook  to 
encounter  it  in  a  boat  by  himself,  and  succeeded  in 
striking  a  second  harpoon ;  but  another  boat  having 
advanced  too  close,  the  animal  brandished  its  taU 
with  so  much  fury,  that  the  harpooner,  who  was  di- 
rectly under,  judged  it  most  prudent  to  leap  into  the 
sea.  The  tail  then  struck  the  very  place  that  he 
had  left,  and  cut  the  boat  entirely  asimder,  with  the 
exception  of  two  planks,  which  were  savedby  hav- 
ing a  coil  of  ropes  laid  over  them ;  so  that  had  he 
remained,  he  must  have  been  dashed  to  pieces. 
Happily  all  the  others  escaped  injury.  The  issues, 
however,  were  not  always  so  fortunate.  The  Aim- 
well  of  Whitby  in  1810,  lost  three  men  out  of  seven, 
and,  in  1813,  the  Henrietta  of  the  same  port  lost 
four  out  of  six,  by  the  boats  being  upset,  and  the 
crews  thrown  into  the  sea. 

In  1809,  one  of  the  men  belonging  to  the  Resolu- 
Eea 


830 


hORTUKRIt  WHALE-FISHERV. 


tion  of  Whithy,  itnck  a  s'.ckinj?  whale ;  after  which 
the  mother,  being  seen  wheeling  rapidly  round  the 
apot,  was  eagerly  watched.  Mr.  Scoresby,  being  on 
this  occasion  in  the  eapneity  of  barpooncr  in  another 
boat,  was  selecting  a  situation  for  the  piobable  re- 
appearance of  the  parent  fish,  when  sudrlenly  an  in- 
visible blow  stove  in  fifteen  feet  of  the  bottom  of 
his  barge,  whicli  filled  with  water  and  Instantly  sunk. 
The  crew  were  saved. 

Entanglement  in  the  line,  while  the  retreating 
whale  is  drawing  it  oflf  with  rapidity,  is  often  pro- 
ductive of  great  disaster.  A  sailor  belonging  to  the 
John  of  Greenock,  in  1818,  having  happened  to  step 
into  the  centre  of  a  coil  of  runnlrift  rope,  had  a  foot 
entirely  carried  off,  and  was  obliged  to  have  tho 
lower  part  of  the  leg  amputated.  A  harpooner,  be- 
longing to  the  Henrietta  of  Wliitby,  had  incautiously 
cast  some  part  of  the  line  under  his  feet ;  when  a 
sudden  dart  of  the  fish  made  it  twist  round  his  body. 
Ho  had  Just  time  to  cry  out,—"  Clear  away  the  line ! 
O  dear !"  when  he  was  cut  almost  asunder,  dragged 
oterboard,  and  never  more  seen. 

A  whale  sometimes  causes  danger  by  proving  to 
be  alive  after  having  exhibited  every  symptom  of 
death.  Mr.  Scoresby  mentions  the  instance  of  one 
which  appeared  so  decidedly  dead,  that  he  himself 
had  leaped  on  the  tail,  and  was  busy  putting  a  rope 
through  it,  when  he  suddenly  felt  the  animal  sink- 
ing  from  beneath  him.  He  made  a  spring  towards 
a  boat  that  was  some  yards  distant,  and,  grasping 
the  gunwale,  was  assisted  on  board.  The  fish  then 
moved  forwards,  reared  his  tail  aloft,  and  shook  it 
with  such  prodigious  violence,  that  it  resounded  to 
the  distance  of  several  miles.  After  two  or  three 
minutes  of  this  violent  exertion,  he  rolled  on  his 
side  and  expired. 

Even  after  life  is  extinct,  all  danger  is  not  over. 
In  the  operation  of  flensing,  the  harpooners  some- 
times fall  into  tho  whale's  mouth,  with  the  irami- 


rniiKiiv. 

K  whale ;  after  which 
ig  rapidly  round  the 
r.  Scoreaby,  beinjf  on 
harpooiicr  in  another 
for  the  probable  re- 
ivhen  suddenly  an  in- 
!et  or  the  bottom  of 
r  and  instantly  sunlt. 

while  the  retreating 
apidity,  is  often  pro- 
atlor  belonging  to  the 
'iufr  happened  to  step 
ininK  rope,  had  a  foot 
obliged  to  have  tho 
!d.  A  harpooner,  be- 
itby,  had  incautiously 
der  his  feet;  when  a 
twist  round  his  body. 
Clear  away  the  line ! 
lost  asunder,  dragged 
n. 

danger  by  proving  to 
d  every  symptom  of 
ts  the  instance  of  one 
lead,  that  he  himself 
s  busy  putting  a  rope 
felt  the  animal  sinlc- 
ide  a  spring  towards 
distant,  and,  grasping 
ward.  The  fish  then 
lil  aloft,  and  shook  it 
,  that  it  resounded  to 
After  two  or  three 
on,  he  rolled  on  his 

1  danger  is  not  over, 
le  harpooners  sonae- 
)uth,  with  the  inuni- 


iTn    irrtl 


NORTmilN   WHAtC-mmKY. 


881 


nent  danger  of  being  drowned.  In  the  cue  of  a 
heavy  swell  they  are  drenched,  and  sometimet 
washed  over  by  the  surge.  Occasionally  they  have 
t.ieir  ropes  broken,  and  are  wounded  byer.ch  other's 
knives.  Mr.  Scoreoby  mentions  a  harp'^ner  who, 
after  the  flensing  was  completed,  happc.;cd  to  havo 
his  foot  attached  by  a  hook  to  the  kreng  or  carcass, 
when  the  latter  was  inadvertently  ^ut  away.  The 
man  caught  hold  of  the  gunwale  of  the  boat;  but 
the  whole  immense  mass  was  now  suspended  by  his 
body,  occeivioning  the  most  excnf'ating  torture,  and 
even  exposing  him  to  the  danger  of  being  torn  asun- 
der,  when  his  companions  contrived  to  hook  the 
kreng  with  a  grapnel,  and  bring  it  back  to  the  8ur« 
face. 

The  whale,  in  attempting  to  escape,  sometimes 
exerts  prodigious  strength,  and  inflicts  uix>n  its  pur- 
suers not  only  danger,  but  the  loss  of  their  property. 
In  1819,  a  boat's  crew  belonging  to  the  Resolution 
of  Whitby  struck  a  whale  on  the  margin  of  a  floe. 
Supported  by  a  second  boat,  they  felt  much  at  their 
ease,  there  being  scarcely  an  instance  in  wliich  the 
assistance  of  a  third  was  required  in  such  circum- 
stances. Soon,  however,  a  signal  was  made  for 
more  line,  and  as  Mr.  Scoresby  was  pushing  with 
his  utmost  speed,  four  oars  were  raisied  in  signal 
of  the  utmost  distress.  The  boat  was  now  seen 
with  its  bow  on  a  level  with  the  water,  while  the 
harpooner,  from  the  friction  of  the  line,  was  enve- 
loped in  smoke.  At  length,  when  the  relief  was 
within  a  htmdred  yards,  the  crew  were  seen  ta 
throw  their  jackets  upon  the  neatest  ice,  and  then 
leap  into  the  sea;  after  which  the  boat  rose  into 
the  air,  and,  making  a  majestic  curve,  disappeared 
beneath  the  waters,  with  all  the  line  attached  to  it. 
The  crew  were  saved.  A  vigorous  pursuit  was  im- 
mediately commenced ;  and  wie  whale,  being  traced 
through  narrow  and  intricate  channels,  was  disco- 
vered considerably  to  the  eastward,  when  three  har- 


IM 


NOKTHMN   WHAll-nSHCIIT. 


Kons  were  darted  at  him.  The  line  of  two  other 
ate  waa  then  run  out,  when,  bv  an  accidental  en- 
tanfflement,  it  brolic,  and  enabled  the  whale  to  rarry 
off  in  all  about  four  milei  of  rope,  which,  with  the 
boat,  were  valued  at  liOl.  The  darinff  fiMhers  aKuin 
([aveohaoe;  thewhalewaaieen,butnii8(H>d.  A  third 
tune  it  appeared,  and  was  reached ;  two  more  bar- 
uoona  wert  struck,  and  the  animal  beinr  plied  with 
lancea,  becamo  entirely  exhausted,  and  yii-lded  to 
iu  fate.  It  had  by  that  time  drawn  out  10,440  yards, 
or  about  six  miles  of  line.  Unluckily,  through  the 
disengagement  of  a  harpoon,  a  boat  and  thirteen 
lines,  nearly  two  miles  in  length,  were  detpched  and 
never  recovered. 

Whale-flshers  sometimes  meet  with  agreeable 
surprises.  The  crew  of  the  ship  Nautilus  had  cap- 
tured a  fisht  which  being  disentangled  and  drawn 
to  the  ship,  some  of  them  were  employed  to  haul  in 
the  line.  Suddenly  they  felt  it  pulled  awaj  as  if 
by  another  whale,  ana  havine  made  signals  for 
more  line,  were  soon  satisfled,  by  the  continued 
movements,  that  this  waa  the  case.  At  length  a 
large  ones  rose  up  close  to  them,  and  was  quickly 
kil^d.  It  tlien  proved,  that  the  animal,  while  moving 
through  the  waters,  had  received  the  rope  into  its 
open  mouth,  and,  struck  by  the  unusual  sensation, 
held  it  fast  between  its  Jaws,  and  thus  became  tlie 
prey  of  his  enemv.— The  Prince  of  Brazils  of  Hull 
had  struck  a  small  fish,  which  sunk  ajqiarently  dead. 
The  crew  applied  all  their  strength  to  heave  it  up ; 
but  sudden  and  violent  Jerks  on  the  line  convinced 
them  that  it  was  still  alive.  They  persevered,  and 
tt  length  brought  up  two  fishes  in  succession,  one  of 
which  had  many  turns  of  the  rope  wound  round  its 
body.  Having  been  entangled  under  water,  it  had, 
in  its  attempt  to  escape,  been  niore  and  more  impli- 
cated, till,  in  the  eno,  it  shared  the  fate  of  its  com< 
panion. 


i 


'■■J.f"~-'''"Ap,^:'^i^i-^)fy\,:-^'^'  -'/ 


E-nSHlET. 

rhe  line  of  two  other 
,  bv  an  aRcidrntal  en- 
lt'((  tho  whale  to  cany 
rope,  which,  with  thn 
le  darinK  flHhers  affaiii 
i,but  miRsed.  A  third 
ched ;  two  more  har- 
limal  beins  plied  with 
lusted,  ana  yielded  to 
rewn  out  10,440  yardn, 
inluckily,  throuifh  the 
a  boat  and  thirteen 
th,  were  detached  and 

meet  with  afrreeable 
hip  Nautilus  had  cap- 
lentanffled  and  drawn 
B  employed  to  haul  in 
it  pulled  awHj  as  if 
nff  made  signals  for 
BO,  by  the  continued 
le  case.  At  lenj^th  a 
lem,  and  was  quickly 
I  animal,  while  moTlni; 
ived  the  rope  into  its 
lie  unusual  sensation, 
and  thus  became  the 
ice  of  Brazils  of  Hull 
sunk  apparently  dead, 
ingth  to  heave  it  up ; 
m  the  line  convinced 
rhey  persevered,  and 
I  in  succession,  one  of 
rope  wound  round  its 
I  under  water,  it  had, 
niore  and  more  impli- 
1  the  fate  of  its  com< 


NORTHIIUf  WHAlK'VniRIIT. 


883 


A  view  of  the  whale-fishery,  as  it  existed  prior  to 
1S90,  has  thus  been  drawn  fifom  ample  and  authen- 
tic materials  afforded  by  the  Dutch  and  other  ear- 
lier writers,  as  well  as  by  the  valuable  work  of  the 
younger  Mr.  Scoresbv.  Having  understood,  how- 
ever, that  within  the  last  few  years  the  trade  has 
been  turned  into  several  new  channels,  we  applied 
to  certain  intelligent  individuals  in  the  principal  poru, 
from  whom  we  have  obtained  such  valuable  mfor- 
ncttion  as  enables  us  to  bring  down  the  history  of 
its  operations  to  the  very  latest  period. 

A  remarkable  change  has  lately  taken  place  as  to 
the  waters  in  which  the  fishery  is  carried  on.  For 
more  than  a  century  it  was  confined  to  the  space  be- 
tween Spitzbergen  and  Greenland,  commonly  called 
tho  Greenland  8ea.  Early  in  the  eighteenth  century 
Uavis's  Strait  began  to  be  frequented,  and  the  ships 
sent  thither  gradually  increased  in  number.  A 
somewhat  more  ample  return,  in  fact,  was  drawn 
f  n  thobtr  western  seas,  though  Mr.  Scoreaby  con- 
.  '  ves  that  the  longer  and  more  expensive  range, 
V  )>_  the  increased  hazards,  fully  counterbalanced  uiis 
11  ivantage.  When  he  wrote,  the  Greenland  fishery 
was  stiUtl.'  HKMt  considerable,  and  the  ships  pro- 
ceeding tV.. I  )r  were  in  the  proportion  of  three  to 
two  of  tiioise  sent  to  Davis's  Strait.  Since  that  time 
its  produce  has  sustained  a  remarkable  diminution ; 
the  whales  which,  durme  He  course  of  two  centuries, 
had  been  gradually  veii.iug  from  place  to  [dace,  have 
at  last  sought  refuge  in  the  remote  and  inaooeaaible 
depths  of  the  icy  sea.  Hence  this  flahery  haa  been 
almost  abandoned;  having  employed,  in  1899,  only 
one  vessel,  though  in  1830  the  number  haa  been  in- 
creased to  four.  For  thia  almoat  entire  loss  of  their 
original  ground,  the  whalers  have  been  compensated 
by  the  new  and  more  extensive  field  opened  up  to 
them  on  the  western  coast.  The  important  expedi- 
tions sent  out  by  government  under  Ross  and  Parrv 
have  made  them  acquainted  with  a  number  of  ad> 


mm 


334 


NORTHERN  WHALR-FMHIRT. 


mirable  stations  on  the  farther  side  of  Davis's  Strait 
and  in  the  higher  latitudes  of  Baflbi's  Bay,  which 
were  before  bttle  known,  and  scarcely  ever  fre- 
quented. They  now,  therefore,  prosecute  their 
fishery  almost  exclusively  in  those  seas,  and  follow 
a  method  which  is  in  many  respects  different. 

The  vessels  destined  for  tiiat  quarter  sail  usually 
in  March,  though  some  delav  their  departure  till  the 
middle  or  even  the  end  of  April.  They  proceed 
first  to  the  northern  parts  of  the  coast  of  Labrador, 
or  to  the  mouth  of  Cumberland  Strait,  carrying  on 
what  iscalled  the  South-west  fishery.  After  remain- 
ing there  till  about  the  beginning  of  May,  they  cross 
to  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Strait,  and  fish  upwards 
alonv  the  coast,  particularly  in  South-east  Bay, 
North-east  Bay,  Hingston  Baj  or  Horn  Sound. 
About  the  month  of  July,  they  usually  cross  Baffin's 
Bay  to  Lancaster  Sound,  which  they  sometimes 
enter,  and  occasionally  even  ascend  Barrow's  Strait 
twenty  or  thirty  miles.  In  returning, they  fish  down 
the  western  shore,  where  their  favourite  stations  are 
Pond's  Bay,  Agnes's  Monument,  Home  Bay,  and 
Cape  Searle.  If  the  shii)s  be  not  previously  filled, 
they  commonly  remain  till  the  end  of  September, 
and  in  some  instances  persevere  till  late  in  October. 
Our  informant  at  Petevhead  mentions  a  vessel  from 
that  port  which  was  clean  on  tiie  last  day  of  Septem-^ 
ber;  yet  th3  captain  (Hroceeded  with  such  spirit 
and  resoluti'jn,  that  after  this  date  he  caught  five 
whales,  mak<ni;  his  cargo  equal  to  the  average  of  the 
year,  and  rea;h9d  home  by  the  27th  October. 

The  vessel!  f jr  Greenland  saU  aboat  the  beginning 
of  April,  and  return  fluently  in  July,  seldom  re- 
maining  ca  tlie  fishing-ground  beyond  the  end  of 
August. 

The  Davis's  Strait  fishery  has  always  been  sub- 
ject to  remarkable  casualties,  which  have  been  still 
farttier  increased  since  the  vessels  took  a  wider 
lange,  and  ventured  into  the  higher  and  more  ihnec 


UHERT. 

ide  of  Davis's  Strait 
Baflin's  Bay,  which 

scarcely  ever  fre- 
e,  prosecute  their 
ise  seas,  and  follow 
!cts  different, 
quarter  sail  usually 
sir  departure  till  the 
ril.  They  proceed 
coast  of  Labrador, 

Strait,  carrying  on 
lery.  After  remain- 
^  of  May,  they  cross 
it,  and  fish  upwards 
in  South-east  Bay, 
or  Horn  Sound, 
sually  cross  Baflln's 
eh  they  sometimes 
end  Barrow's  Strait 
ming.they  fish  down 
ivourite  stations  are 
t.  Home  Bay,  and 
ot  previously  filled, 
J  end  of  September, 

till  late  in  October, 
(itions  a  vessel  from 
i  last  day  of  Septem- 
id  with  such  spirit 
date  he  caught  five 
to  the  average  of  the 
!7th  October. 
1  aboat  the  beginning 

in  July,  seldom  re- 

beyond  the  end  of 

B  always  been  sub- 
vhich  have  been  still 
essels  took  a  wider 
^r  and  more  frraec 


latitudes, 
that, — 


NORTHERN  WHALS-FIBHRRT. 

Our  correspondent  at  Aberdeen  state*, 


In  1819,  out  of  63  ships  there  were  lost  10 

.  .  1821,  ...  .79 II 

.  .  1839,  ....  60 7 

These  wrecks  have  ^nerally  occurred  ut  conse* 
quence  of  the  ships  bemg  beset  in  their  attempt  to 
pass  from  the  eastern  uoast  to  Lancaster  Sound, 
across  that  great  barrier  of  ice  which  fills  the  centre 
of  Bafihi's  Bay.  The  sides  of  the  vessels  have 
sometimes  been  pressed  together ;  at  other  times  they 
have  been  squeezed  out  of  the  water  and  laid  upon 
the  ice.  But  experience  seems  to  have  enabled  the 
mariners  to  guard,  in  some  degree,  against  these 
dangers.  Last  year,  of  eighty-nine  ships  sent  out 
to  this  fishery,  only  four  were  lost ;  namely,  the 
Dauntless,  Bramham,  of  Hull ;  the  Rookwood,  Law- 
son,  of  London ;  the  Jane,  Bruce,  of  Aberdeen ;  the 
Home  Castle,  Stewart,  of  Leith. 

'  Several  of  these  shipwrecks  have  been  attended 
with  very  peculiar  circumstances.  In  1835,  thb 
Active,  Captain  Gray,  of  Peterhead,  was  so  conK 
pletely  beset  in  Exeter  Sound,  that  on  the  1st 
Octolier,  the  crew  were  obliged  to  abandon  her  and 
take  a  pajssage  in  other  ships.  Next  year  a  vessel, 
sent  out  to  ascertain  her  fate,  found  her  on  the 
beach,  at  a  little  distance  from  the  place  of  beset- 
ment,  completely  tminjured.  She  was  got  off  in  a 
few  davs,  and  brought  homevwith  her  cargo  to  Pe- 
terhead, where  she  arrived  on  the  12th  September. 

In  1836,  the  Dundee,  Captain  Dawson,  of  London, 
having  ventured  into  the  higher  parallels  of  BzftMa 
Bay,  was,  in  74°  SO'  north  latitude,  so  completely 
beset  and  enclosed  within  impenetrable  barriers,  that 
the  crew  could  obtain  no  assistance  from  the  other 
ships.  To  add  to  their  distress,  a  Dutch  vessd  near 
them  was  completely  wrecked;  and  the  men,  to  the 


888 


NOBTHSBN  WBAUB«n8HKRT. 


number  of  forty>siz,  came  on  board  entirely  desti- 
tute. They  were  supported  from  the  23d  August  to 
the  6th  October,  when  they  set  out  in  their  Iraats  to 
endeavour  to  reach  the  Dai^h  settlement  of  Levely ; , 
but  as  this  was  350  miles  distant,  much  doubt  was 
entertained  if  they  would  ever  arrive  at  their  des- 
tination. TTie  crew  of  the  Dundee,  reduced  to 
extreme  distress  by  the  want  of  provisions,  succeeded 
in  killLag  some  seals  and  bears,  on  whose  coarse 
flesh  they  were  thankful  to  sustain  life.  On  the  Ist 
February  they  caught  a  whale,  and  on  the  16th  a 
second,  which  afforded  great  relief,  especially  as 
other  fishes  wene  attracted  by  the  desire  to  feed  on 
the  carcass  of  tliis  huge  animal.  Unfortunately  for 
their  repose,  Hbfi  aea  was  not  so  completely  frozen 
but  that  enonnous  icebergs  were  still  tossing  throurii 
it  with  thundering  noise,  tearing  up  the  fields  by 
which  the  ship  was  surrounded.  On  the  S3d  Feb- 
ruary; one  of  uncommon  magnitude  was  seen  bear- 
ing directly  vsgm,  their  stem,  its  collision  with  which 
appeared  inevit!d)le;  whereupon  the  seamen  snatch- 
in''  their  clothes,  leaped  out  upon  the  ice,  and  ran 
to  some  distance.  The  iceberg  rolled  on  with  a 
tremendous  erasli,  breaking  the  field  into  fragments, 
end  hiding  from  their  view  the  ship,  which  they  ex- 
pected never  to  see  again ;  but  happily  it  passed  by, 
and  the  Dundee  aiqpeared  from  behind  it  uninjured; 
a  spectacle  that  was  hailed  with  three  enthusiastic 
cheers.  The  mariners  lost  sight  of  the  sun  for 
seventy-five  days,  during  which  they  suffered  such 
severe  ccdd,  liuit  they  could  not  walk  the  deck  for 
five  minutes  without  being  frost-bitten.  Luckily, 
they  were  able  to  pick  up  a  quantity  of  spars  and 
staves  belonginff  to  the  Dutch  wreck,  which  afforded 
»  supply  of  fuel,  otherwise  they  must  have  perished 
from  the  intensity  of  the  frost.  By  great  good  for- 
tune, too,  the  body  of  ice  in  which  they  were  enclosed 
drifted  to  the  southward  more  than  eleven  degrees 
rfrom  74°  30',  down  to  63°),  or  about  800  miles,  and 


•nraiRT> 

board  entirely  destU 
>m  the  23d  August  to 
t  out  in  their  Iwats  to 
lettlement  of  Levely ; , 
ant,  much  doubt  was 

arrive  at  their  des- 
Dundee,  reduced  to 
provisions,  succeeded 
.n,  on  whose  coarse 
itain  life.  On  the  1st 
9,  and  on  the  16th  a 

relief,  especially  as 
the  desire  to  feed  on 
1.  Unfortunately  for 
so  completely  frozen 
e  still  tossing  through 
ring  up  the  fields  by 
d.  On  the  33d  Feb- 
litude  was  seen  bear- 
B  collision  with  which 
m  the  seamen  suatch- 
pon  the  ice,  and  ran 
!rg  rolled  on  with  a 
e  field  into  fragments, 
s  ship,  which  they  ex- 
t  happily  it  passed  by, 
t  behind  it  unipjured; 
ith  three  enthusiastic 
sight  of  the  sun  for 
eh  they  suffered  such 
lot  walk  the  deck  for 
xost-bitten.  Luckily, 
[uantity  of  spars  and 
(vreck,  which  afforded 
ly  must  have  perished 
.  By  gteat  good  for- 
ich  they  were  enclosed 
!  than  eleven  iegteea 
■  about  800  miles,  and 


NOHTHERR  WHALS-nSBBRT. 


837 


was  thus  brought  ne'irly  to  the  mouth  of  Davis's 
Strait.  On  the  Ist  April,  when  the  Lee,  Captain 
Lee,  of  Hull,  had  just  commenced  her  fishing,  the 
crew  were  agreeably  surprised  by  meeting  the  Dun- 
dee, whose  catastrophe  had  excited  the  greatest  in- 
terest at  home;  they  supjdied  her  liberally  with 
provisions,  and  every  necessary  for  enabling  ner  to 
reach  BriUin.  The  vessel  was  adcordingly  liberated 
on  the  16th  April,  and  on  the  2d  June  arrived  off 
Shetland,  whence  intelligence  was  immediately 
spread  of  this  happy  deliverance. 

One  of  the  most  affecting  shipwrecks  which  ever 
occurred  in  the  northern  seas  was  that  of  the  Jean, 
of  Peterhead,  in  1826.    Of  this  we  can  give  a  full 
account  from  an  interesting  narrative  by  Mr.  Cum- 
ming,  the  smveon,  an  eye-witness  and  sharer  of  the 
calamity.    This  vessel  sailed  on  the  16th  March, 
having  on  board  only  twenty-eight  men,  bvt  received 
at  Lerwick  a  complement  oi  twenty-thnse  natives  of 
Shetland;  owing  to  which  arrangement,  as  well  as 
by  contrary  winds,  she  was  detained  till  the  38th. 
IVom  the  evening  of  that  day  to  the  Ist  April,  the 
ship  encountered  very  stormy  weather,  which  she 
successfully  withstood,  and  was  then  steered  into 
those  western  tracts  of  the  Greenland  sea  which  are  the 
most  favourable  for  the  capture  of  the  seaL    On  the 
14th,  in  the  latitude  of  68°,  the  fishery  began  most 
prosperously.    In  one  day  the  seamen  kuled  1138 
seals,  and  the  entire  number  caught  in  five  days 
exceeded  3070.    This  scene,  however,  could  not  be 
contemplated  without  some  painfid  impressions. 
The  seals  attacked  were  only  tne  young,  as  they  lay 
fearlessly  reposing  on  the  ice,  before  they  had  yet 
attempted  to  plunge  into  the  wateiy  element.    One 
blow  of  the  dub  stunned  them  completely.  The  view 
of  hundreds  of  creatures bearingsome resemblance  to 
the  human  form,  writhing  in  uie  agonies  of  death, 
and  the  deck  streaming  with  their  gore,  was  at  once 
distressing  and  disgusting  to  a  spectator  of  any  feel- 
F  f 


888 


NORTHXRlf  WBALI-nSHXItT. 


ing.    Howerer,  this  eTil  soon  gave  'way  to  others  of 
a  more  serious  nature. 

On  the  moming  of  the  18th  April  the  saQors  had 
begun  their  fishery  as  usual ;  but  a  breeze  sprung  up, 
and  obliged  them  by  eleven  o'clock  to  suspend  ope- 
rations. The  gale  continually  freshened,  and  was 
the  more  unpleasant  from  their  being  surrounded 
with  loose  ice,  Wiiich  a  dense  and  heavy  fog  made  it  im- 
possible to  distinguish  at  any  distance,  llie  mariners 
took  in  all  sftil,  but  did  not  apprehend  danger  till  six 
in  the  evening,  when  the  wind,  which  had  been  con- 
tinually increasing,  began  to  blow  with  tenfold  fury. 
All  that  the  narrator  nad  ever  heard,  of  the  united 
sounds  of  thunder,  tempest,  and  waves,  seemed  faint 
when  compared  with  the  stunnmg  roar  of  this  hurri- 
cane. At  eight  the  ship  was  borne  upon  a  stream 
of  ice,  from  which  she  received  several  severe  con- 
cussions ;  the  consequence  of  which  was  that  at  ten 
the  water  began  to  enter,  and  at  twelve  no  exertion 
in  pumping  could  prevent  her  from  being  gradually 
filled. 

At  one  in  the  morning  she  became  completely 
waterlogged'  She  then  fell  over  on  her  beam-ends, 
when  the  crew,  giving  themselves  up  for  lost,  clung 
to  the  nearest  ol^ect  for  immediate  safety.  By  judi- 
ciously cutting  away  the  main  and  fore  masts,  they 
happily  enabled  the  ship  to  right  herself,  when  being 
drifted  into  a  stream  of  ice,  she  was  no  longer  in 
duiger  of  immediate  sinking.  The  whole  hull,  how- 
ever, was  inundated  and  indeed  immersed  in  water, 
except  a  portion  of  the  quarter-deck,  upon  which 
the  whole  crew  were  now  assembled.  Here  they 
threw  up  an  awning  of  sails  to  shelter  themselves 
from  the  cold,  which  had  beoome  so  intense  as  to 
threaten  Uie  extinction  of  life.  Those  endowed 
with  spirit  and  sense  kept  up  the  vital  power  bv  brisk 
movement ;  but  the  natives  of  Shetland,  who  are 
accused  on  such  occasions  of  sinking  into  a  selfish 
despondency,  piled  themselves  together  in  a  he^, 


imiiiiiiNiii 


•TISBIRT« 

piTe  way  to  others  of 

April  the  sailors  had 
ut  a  breeze  sprung  up, 
lock  to  susiwnd  ope* 
r  freshened,  and  was 
eir  being  surrounded 
I  heavy  fog  made  it  im* 
itance.  The  mariners 
rehend  danger  till  six 
,  which  had  been  con- 
low  with  tenfold  fury. 
T  heard,  of  the  united 
d  waves,  seemed  faint 
ling  roar  of  this  hurri- 
lome  upon  a  stream 
A  several  severe  con- 
which  was  that  at  ten 
at  twelve  no  exertion 
from  being  gradually 

e  became  completely 
ver  on  her  beam-ends, 
Ives  up  for  lost,  clung 
diate  safety.  Tiy  judi- 
1  and  fore  masts,  they 
rht  heraelf,  when  being 
she  was  no  longer  in 
The  whole  hull,  how- 
sd  immersed  in  water, 
ter-deck,  upon  which 
ssembled.  Here  they 
to  shelter  themselves 
ome  so  intense  as  to 
life.  Those  endowed 
;he  vital  power  by  brisk 
of  Shetland,  who  are 
'  sinkine  into  a  selfish 
!S  togetner  in  a  heiq>, 


MORTHBRM  WHALI-mHlRT.  389 

with  the  view  of  deriving  warmth  from  each  other's 
bodies,  lliose  in  the  interior  of  the  maps  obtained 
thus  a  considerable  temperature,  though  accompanied 
with  severe  pressure ;  and  blows  were  given,  and 
even  knives  drawn,  to  gain  and  to  preserve  this  ad- 
vantageous position.  On  the  I9th,  one  Shetlander 
died  of  cold,  another  on  the  20th,  and  a  third  on  the 
21st,— events  felt  bv  the  others  as  peculiarly  gloomy, 
cihiefiy,  it  is  owned,  as  forming  a  presage  of  their 
own  impending  fate. 

On  the  32d  the  sun  began  to  appear  amid  showers 
of  snow ;  and  the  33d  Was  ushered  in  by  fine  weather 
and  a  clear  sky.  The  opinions  of  the  crew  were 
now  divided  as  to  what  course  they  should  steer  in 
search  of  deliverance.  Two  plans  were  suggested. 
They  could  either  stretch  nortnward  into  the  fishing 
stations,  where  tliey  might  expect,  sooner  or  later,  to 
meet  some  of  their  countrymen,  by  whom  they 
would  be  received  on  board ;  or  they  might  sail 
southward  towards  Iceland,  and  throw  themselves 
on  the  hospitality  of  its  inhabitants.  The  former 
plan  was  in  several  respects  the  more  promising,  es- 
pecially as  a  vessel  had  been  in  sight  when  the  storm 
arose.  But  its  uncertaintier  were  also  very  great. 
They  might  traverse  for  weeks  these  vast  icy  seas, 
amid  cold  always  increasing,  aiid  with  imminent 
danger  of  being  swallowed  up  by  the  waves.  Ice- 
land was  distant,  but  it  was  a  oefinite  point ;  ar.  \ 
upon  this  course  they  at  last  wisely  determineu. 
Several  days  were  spent  in  fitting  out  their  two  re- 
maining boats — all  the  othera  having  been  swept 
away— and  in  fishing  up  from  the  interior  of  the 
vessel  every  article  wnich  could  be  turned  to  account. 
During  this  operation,  the  weather  continuing  fine, 
they  could  not  forbear  admiring  the  scene  by  which 
they  were  surrounded.  The  sea  was  formed  as  it 
were  into  a  beautiful  little  frith,  by  the  ice  rising 
uound  in  the  most  varied  and  fantastic  forms,  some- 
times even  assuming  the  appearance  of  cities  adorned 


■^■«^,yyy^|gjLj^^uy..;^i:J,i-jy..^^^^ 


6) 


S40 


KORTHSRN  WBALE-FMHIRT. 


with  towen  and  forests  of  columns.  Continual 
eflforts  were  necessary,  meantime,  to  keep  the  wreck 
on  the  icy  field ;  for  had  it  slipped  over  into  the  sea,  of 
which  there  appeared  a  strongr  probability,  it  would 
have  ffone  down  at  once.  By  the  96th  the  boats  were 
completely  ready,  having  on  board  a  small  stock  of 
provisions,  and  a  single  change  of  linen.  At  half- 
past  one  in  the  mommg  of  the  97th,  the  mariners 
took  leave,  with  some  sorrow,  of  the  vessel,  which 
"  seemed  a  home  even  in  ruins,"  leaving  the  deck 
strewed  with  ^othes,  books,  and  provisions,  to  be 
swallowed  up  .,/  the  ocean  as  soon  as  the  icy  floor 
on  which  it  rested  should  melt  away.     . 

The  two  boats,  having  received  forty-seven  men 
on  board,  lay  very  deep  m  the  water;  so  that  when 
a  smart  breeze  arose,  tne  men  were  obliged  to  throw 
away  their  spare  clothing  and  every  thing  else  whidi 
could  be  wanted,  and  soon  saw  their  little  wardrobe 
floating  on  the  face  of  the  sea.  The  leaky  state  of 
one  of  the  barges  entailed  the  necessity  of  hauling 
it  on  a  piece  of  ice  to  be  repaired.  The  seamen 
were  frequently  obliged  also  to.  drag  them  both  over 
large  fields,  and  again  to  launch  mem.  However, 
a  favourable  wind  m  ten  hours«nabled  them  to  make 
forty-one  mUes,  when  they  came  to  the  utmost  verge 
of  the  icy  stream,  and  entered  upon  the  open  ocean. 
Their  fears  were  not  yet  removed ;  for  if  a  heavy 

Ele  had  arisen,  their  slender  bai-ks  must  soon  have 
en  overwhelmed.  There  blew  in  fact  a  stiff  breeze, 
which  threw  in  a  good  deal  of  water,  and  caused 
severe  coid;  however,  at  seven  in  the  evening,  they 
saw,  with  inexpHressible  pleasure,  though  dim  and 
distant,  the  lofty  and  snow-cai^ied  mountains  of  Ice- 
bnd.  But  these  were  still  mty  miles  off,  and  much 
might  intervene ;  so  that  the  night,  which  soon  closed 
in,  passed  with  a  mixtuit  of  joy  and  fear.  Fortunately 
the  mommg  was  favourable ;  and  about  four  they  saw 
ablack  speck  on  the  surface  of  tb<;  ocean.  It  proved 
to  be  an  islandt  naked,  rocky,  ^nd  seemingly  uniii> 


■H 


^M±^ 


■raRBRT. 

columns.  Continual 
ne,to  keep  the  wreck 
id  over  into  the  sea,  of 

probability,  it  would 
le  36th  the  boats  were 
»aTd  a  small  stock  of 
fe  of  linen.  At  half. 
le  97th,  the  mariners 

of  the  vessel,  which 
IS,"  lcaving[  the  deck 
uid  provisions,  to  be 
soon  as  the  icy  floor 
away.     . 

ived  forty-seven  men 
water;  so  that  when 
vere  obliged  to  throw 
ivery  thing  else  which 

their  little  wardrobe 
The  leaky  state  of 

necessity;  of  hauling 
»ired.    The  seamen 

drag  them  both  over 
ch  them.  However, 
inabled  them  to  make 
le  to  the  utmost  verge 
upon  the  open  ocean, 
oved ;  for  if  a  heavy 
urks  miist  soon  have 
r  in  fact  a  stiff  breeze, 
[>f  water,  and  caused 
1  in  the  evening,  they 
are,  though  dim  and 
ed  mountains  of  Ice- 
T  miles  off,  and  much 
fat,  which  soon  closed 
iudfear.  Fortunately 
d  about  four  they  saw 
h  <i  ocean.  It  proved 
and  seemingly  unin> 


M 


KORTHBUt  WKALC-nSHKRT. 


841 


habited ;  vet  to  set  foot  on  any  shore,  however  wild 
and  desolate,  promised  a  temporary  relief.  On 
turning  a  promontory,  what  was  their  joy  to  see  a 
boat  pushing  out  to  meet  them!  and  they  were  re- 
ceived by  the  natives  of  Grimsey  (the  name  of  the 
little  island)  with  every  mark  of  kindness  and  com- 
passion. The  seamen  were  distributed  among  the 
half-subterraneous  abodes,  and  received  a  portion 
of  the  frugal  and  scanty  fare  on  which  the  inha- 
bitants subsisted.  They  were  long  without  any 
means  of  communication  by  speech ;  but  at  length 
the  clergjnnan  appeared,  who  was  able  to  converse 
in  Latin  with  Mr.  Gumming.  The  latter,  inquiring 
how  his  countrymen  could  best  reach  the  mainland, 
was  informed,  that  the  islanders  wouTd  assist  in  con- 
veying them  to  Akureyri,  a  small  town,  the  residence 
of  the  nearest  Danish  governor,  though  situated  at 
the  distance  of  sixty-eight  miles.  Accordingly,  at 
seven  in  the  morning  of  the  Sd  May,  they  set  sail, 
and,  after  a  tedious  voyage,  reached  at  nine  in  the 
evening  the  coast  of  Iceland.  TTiey  rowed  along 
the  shore,  touching  at  variouspoints,  where  they  were 
hospitably  received ;  till  on  Thursday,  4th  May,  they 
saw  a  cluster  of  irregular  wooden  structures,  which, 
to  their  surprise,  proved  to  be  Akure3rri,  the  capital 
of  this  quarter  of  the  island.  They  were  here  also 
received  with  the  most  humane  hospitidity,  and  re- 
mained three  months  before  they  cotdd  obtain  a  pas- 
sage home;  during  which  delay  unfortunately  they 
lost  nine  of  their  number,  chiefly  from  mortification 
and  other  morbid  affections  occasioned  by  extreme 
cold.  In  the  middleof  July,  they  procuredapassage 
in  a  Danish  vessel,  which  brought  Uiem  and  their 
boats  near  to  the  coast  of  Shetland.  Having  landed 
at  Lerwick,  they  were  conveyed  by  his  Majesty's 
ship  Investigator  to  Peteriiead,  where  they  arrived 
on  the  5th  August. 

The  whale-fishery  deserves  finally  to  be  consi-    ■ 
dered  in  its  commercial  relations,  under  which  u- 
Ff3 


iti« 


S4> 


NOETinnM  wHALi-romiBT. 


pect  it  ponessefl  conaiderable  importaneei  whether 
we  consider  the  capital  invested,  or  the  amotmt  and 
value  of  the  proceed*. 

The  ilrat  and  principal  employment  of  capital  in 
this  trade  consists  in  tne  construction  and  fittinBOut 
of  the  vessels  adapted  for  its  various  purposes.  This 
expense  greatly  exceeds  that  of  other  ships  of  the 
same  dimensions,  owing  to  the  manner  in  which  the 
timbers  must  be  doubled  and  fortified,  the  necessity 
of  having  seven  boats,  a  copious  supply  of  line,  nu- 
merous casks,  and  iishing  implements.  Mr.  Scoresby 
states,  that  the  Resolution  of  Whitby,  of  391  tons, 
was  built  in  1B03  with  all  these  equipments,  but 
without  the  outfit  for  a  particular  voyage,  at  6381/. 
In  1813,  the  Esk  of  Whitby,  of  364  tons,  cost 
14,000<.  t  but  this  included  the  outlay  for  her  first  ad- 
venture, which,  being  supposed  to  amount  to  1700/., 
would  make  the  expense  of  building  and  equipment 
only  19,300/.  The  sum  of  UfiOOl.  is  stated  to  us 
from  Hull,  as  the  estimate  for  building  and  fbmisMng 
at  that  port  a  ship  of  350  tons,  in  the  vear  1813.  Since 
this  last  period  a  great  reduction  has  taken  place. 
Mr.  Cooper,  in  1894,  reported  to  the  House  of  Com- 
mons, that  the  sum  required  was  only  10,000/.  Ac- 
cording to  the  information  received  in  July,  1830, 
from  me  different  ports,  we  find  that  such  a  ship 
may  now  be  built  and  completely  equipped  for  about 
8000/.  A  Dundee  correspondent  calculates  that  half 
of  this  sum  is  expended  m  carpenter  work,  and  the 
other  half  in  saus,  rigging,  casks,  lines,  and  other 
fidiing  apparatus. 

Bemdes  this  original  cost,  a  large  annual  expen- 
diture is  incurred  m  the  prosecution  of  the  fishery. 
There  is  ftrst  the  outf  t,  being  the  provisions  and 
other  supidies  put  on  board  before  the  ship  goes  to 
sea.  Mr.  Scoresbystates  the  expense  of  fitting  out 
the  Resolution  of  Whitby  in  1803,  to  have  amounted 
to  1470/.— 4iamely,  provisions^  coals,  dec.  769/. ;  in- 
orance,  413/.;  advance-mon^  to  aeaaien,  9882. 


BHnn 


B-rUIUET» 

I  importaneet  whether 
ted,  or  the  amotuit  and 

ployment  of  capital  in 
itruction  and  flttingout 
ajious  porposes.  Thia 
;  of  other  ahipe  of  the 
e  manner  in  which  the 
fortified,  the  necessity 
one  supply  of  line,  nu- 
lements.  Mr.Scoreshy 
f  Whitby,  of  391  tons, 
these  equipments,  but 
cular  voyaige,  at  €391/. 
by,  of  354  tons,  cost 
e  outlay  for  her  first  ad- 
led  to  amount  to  1700/., 
building  and  equipment 
14,000/r  is  stated  to  us 
building  and  furnishing 
in  the  year  1813.  Since 
ictionhas  taken  place. 
1  to  the  House  of  Corn- 
was  only  10,000/.  Ac- 
received  in  July,  1830, 
)  find  that  such  a  ship 
Btely  equipped  for  about 
dentcalciuates  that  half 
larpenter  work,  and  the 
casks,  lines,  and  other 

,  a  large  annual  expen- 
raeeution  of  the  fishery. 
iin|  the  provisions  and 
before  thie  ship  goes  to 
le  expense  of  ntnng  out 
1 1803,  to  have  amounted 
asi  coals,  &c.  769/. ;  in- 
auBf  to  aeaawD,  9882. 


KORTHIRN  WRALX-nsHIRT. 


84a 


Hie  statements  forwarded  at  the  present  date  (July 
1630),  from  the  several  ports  upon  this  subject,  vaiy 
in  a  remarkable  degree.  At  Leith  the  estimate  is 
from  700/.  to  laoof. ;  Aberdeen,  1400/. ;  Peterhead, 
from  ISOO/.  to  1600/. ;  while  at  Hull  this  outfit  is 
rerk3ned  at  3000/.,  expressly  stated  as  exclusive  of 
seamen's  wages.  Probably  there  may  have  been 
some  diflTerence  cs  to  the  articles  included  in  these 
estimates.  An  English  crew,  besides,  may  expect  to 
be  more  amply  provisioned,  while  the  vmrage  fW>m 
Hull  is  undoubtedly  somewhat  longer.  To  this  first 
outlay  must  be  added  the  expenses  incurred  in  pro- 
secuting the  fishery,  and  in  preparing  the  cargo  for 
sale.  The  pay  of  the  master  and  harpooners  is 
very  Judiciously  made  to  depend  almost  entirely 
upon  their  success.  They-  receive  a  certain  sum  for 
every  whale  struck,  and  afterward  for  every  ton  of 
oil  extracted.  The  seamen,  also,  though  they  must 
have  their  monthly  Wages,  obtain  additional  allow- 
ances in  the  event  of  a  prosperous  voyage.  At  Pe- 
terhead, it  is  estimated,  that  if  a  ship  comes  home 
clean,  the  entire  loss  will  exceed  3000/. ;  while  iVom 
Hull  we  have  received  a  calculation,  that  the  total 
expense  of  a  voyage,  which  produces  900  tons  of 
oil,  will  be  3500/.,  exclusive  of  insurance. 

From  these  data  we  mav  form  some  estimate  of 
the  entire  capital  invested  in  the  trade.  Although 
the  number  of  ships  annually  sent  out  scarcely  ex- 
ceeds ninety,  it  is  probable  that  there  may  be  at  least 
a  hundred  in  a  stete  fit  for  sailing.  The  annual  ex- 
penditure on  each  may  be  averaged  at  3000/.  The 
value  of  wharves,  warehouses,  machinery  for  ex- 
tractmg  the  oU,  Ac.  was  stated  by  Mr.  Cooper  to 
the  House  of  Commons  a*  amounting  at  Hull  to 
60,000/.  or  70,000/. ;  and  as  that  port  enjoys  about  a 
third  of  the  trade,  these  estabtisfaments  may  pro- 
bably amount  altogether  to  300^000/.  We  thus  ob* 
lain 


844  NORTRIRNv  WIIAll>rUliniT. 

100  ships  at  £8000, £800,000 

90  voyages  at  £3000 970,000 

Warehouses,  &c. 900,000 

Capital  invested,  ....  £14)70,000 

Tho  produce  of  the  fisherv  consists  of  oU  and  of 
whalebone ;  none  of  the  other  articles,  in  an  esti- 
mate of  this  kind,  being  worthy  of  mnch  considera- 
tion. Tlie  prices  of  the^e  two  coi  lodities  vary 
greatly,  both  at  different  pekiods  and  from  one  year 
to  another. 

Whale-oil,  in  1743,  is  stated  to  have  sold  for  18/. 
per  ton ;  but  in  the  following  year  it  fell  to  14/.  In 
1801,  it  rose  so  high  as  60/.,  but  in  1809,  was  only 
31/.,  and  in  1807,  had  sunk  so  low  as  91/.  In  1813, 
it  reached  a  b'<;her  price  than  ever,  the  iineat  quality 
i)eing  sold  for  60/. ;  but  the  prosperous  fishery  of 
1814  brouffht  it  down  to  39/.  There  has  been  since, 
on  the  whole,  a  considerable  reduction  of  price, 
chiefly,  it  may  be  presumed,  from  the  extensive  use 
of  coal  gas.  Mr.  Scoresby  reckons  the  average  of 
the  nineteen  years,  ending  with  1818,  at  34/.,  15*. 
while  an  intelligent  correspondent  at  Aberdeen  states 
that  of  the  last  ten  at  99/.  Ei.  The  current  price 
(July,  1830),  is  given  in  the  Scotch  ports  at  from  94/. 
to  96/.  -,  in  Hull  at  94/. 

Whalebone  bore  anciently  a  very  high  price,  when 
the  rigid  stays  and  the  expanded  hoops  oi  our  grand- 
mothers produced  an  extensive  demand  for  this  com- 
modity. The  Dutch  have  occasionally  obtained  700/. 
per  ton,  and  were  accustomed  to  draw  100,000/.  an- 
nually from  England  for  that  one  article.  Even  in 
1763  it  still  brought  500/.,  but  soon  fell,  and  has 
never  risen  again  to  the  same  value.  During  the 
present  century,  the  price  has  varied  between  60i.  and 
800/.,  seldom  falling  to  the  lowest  rate,  and  rarely 
exceeding  150/.  IVfr.  Scoresby  reckons  the  price  in 
(he  five  years  ending  1818,  at  90/.,  while  at  present 


v-rumniT. 

£800,000 

970,000 

900,000 

£1,970,000 

confiiBts  of  oil  and  of 
ir  articles,  in  an  estW 
tiy  of  ni'"*)!  considera- 
wo  coi  lodities  vary 
Dds  and  irom  one  year 

d  to  have  lold  for  16/. 

year  it  fell  to  14i.    In 

but  in  1809,  waa  only 

I  low  as  91/.    In  1813, 

ever,  the  finest  quality 

prosperous  fishery  of 

There  has  been  since, 

le  reduction  of  price, 

rom  the  extensive  use 

eckons  the  average  of 

ith  1818,  at  34/.,  16*. 

dent  at  Aberdeen  states 

U.    The  current  price 

!otch  ports  at  from  94/. 

I  very  high  price,  vrhen 
led  hoops  of  our  grand* 
e  demand  for  this  com- 
isionally  obtained  700/. 
I  to  draw  100,000/.  an- 
I  one  article.  Even  in 
tut  soon  fell,  and  has 
18  value.  During  tho 
raried  between  60/.  and 
Dwest  rate,  and  rarely 
jy  ri'kons  the  price  in 
i  90/.,  while  at  present 


NORTHIRN  WUALI-rURKRT. 


84S 


(July,  1830)  it  is  stated  from  the  differrnt  ports  to  be 
from  160/.  to  180/.  This  is  for  what  is  called  the  rizt- 
bone,  or  such  pieces  as  measure  six  feet  or  upwards  in 
length;  those  below  this  standard  are  usually  sold 
at  half-price.  It  may  appear  singular  that  whale- 
bone should  rise  while  oil  has  been  so  decidedly 
lowerifd ;  but  the  one  chanffc,  it  is  obvious,  causes 
tho  otiier.  Oil,  being  the  mun  product  of  the  fishery, 
regulates  its  extent,  which  being  diminished  by  the 
low  price,  the  Quantity  of  whalebone  is  lessened, 
while  tho  demand  for  it  continuing  as  great  as  before, 
the  value  conseuuently  rises. 

The  whale-fishery,  for  one  ship  and  one  season,  is 
a  complete  lottery,  the  result  of  which,  according  to 
the  skill  and  guoa  fortune  of  the  persons  employed, 
fluctuates  between  a  largo  profit  and  a  severe  loss. 
Sometimes  a  vessel  is  so  unlucky  as  to  return  clean; 
another  brings  only  one  fish ;  while  eight  or  nine, 
producing  about  ninety  tons  of  oil,  are  considered 
necessary  to  make  an  average  voyage.  There  are 
fortunate  instances  of  a  much  larger  produce.  The 
greatest  cargo  ever  known  by  Scoresby  to  have  been 
Drought  from  the  northern  seas  was  that  of  Captain 
Souter,  of  tho  Resolution  of  Peterhead,  in  1814.  It 
consisted  of  forty-four  whales,  yielding  999  tons  of 
oil,  which,  even  at  the  reduced  rate  of  39/.,  sold  for 
9568/.,  raised  by  the  whalebone  and  bounty  to  about 
11,000/.  In  1813,  both  the  elder  and  youngrer  Mr. 
Scoresby  brought  cargoes,  loss  in  Quantity,  indeed, 
but  which,  from  the  oU  selling  at  60i.  per  ton,  yield- 
ed a  still  greater  return.  The  former,  in  the  course 
of  twenty-eight  voyages,  killed  498  whales,  whence 
were  extracted  4946  tons  of  oil,  the  value  of  which 
and  of  the  whalebone  exceeded  150,000/. ;  all  drawn 
by  >iim  out  of  the  ctepths  of  the  northern  ocean. 

The  Dutch  have  published  tables,  exhibiting  the 
results  of  Uieir  fisheiy  for  the  space  of  107*  years,  be- 

*  The  ream  VSH,  1S7S,  tnd  1074,  am  niM  Included,  Um  waf  wiUt 
france  bavloi  eauMd  a  auipeniton  uf  Ui«  fiaiterjr. 


•46 


NotTnmN  WHAii-rnnmir. 


tween  1669  and  1778,  both  incltuive.  During  thnt 
period  tht-y  sent  to  Qreeniand  14,167  ■hips,  of  which 
561,  or  about  four  in  the  hundred,  wer"¥8t  Thev 
took  67,590  whale.,  yielding  3,105,696  qiiardcelen^ 
of  oil,  and  93.I7!.,H60  pounds  of  bo,^,  wKyle hied 
a  value  of  lfi,63l,rf  The  exp,,„;«  of  flttlng 3 
fct'fcSS)°""i!;^*'  '"  n.879.6ia/.    Value  of  Ship. 

Ac  i^Al  ^.T  "^  P^''P""nK  «''«  oil,  bone, 
&c.,  8,667,109/.  Total  expenae.,  14,917,160/. ;  leuv- 
h.g  a  pront  of  3,714,149/.  ll.e  Davi;'.  Strait  fl.K. 
between  1719  and  1778,  employed  3161  veswl.  of 
^^'''l'  f7''\''  '"'"•    '•'•'«  I"^'*d"«e  wa.  4,98fi,93S/.. 

^i^lJ*^     Pe  Greenland  liBherywoidd  thus  have 

that  the  putch,  „,  their  e.timatc  of  expense.,  have 
not  uicluded  the  original  cost  of  the  vesiels.  In  U.e 
subaequent  yearn,  from  1785  down  to  1794,  the  num- 

^iA^Lt"^  ^^  ""^"^"^  '°  »**'y'  ^^  th«  trade  i. 
""il^    n*?  ^een  earned  on  with  absolute  lou. 

The  BntiBh  fishery  has  lately  vieldcd  a  produce 
and  value  much  exceeding  that  of  the  Dutch  during 
the  period  of  its  greatest  prosperity.  In  the  five 
years  ending  with  1818,  there  were' imported  into 
England  and  Scotland  68,940  tuns  of  oiVand  3490 
tons  of  whalebone;  which,  valuing  the  oil  at  36/.. 
10..,  and  the  bone  at  90/.,  with  10,000/.  in  skins 

EJq^  Lf""  P'^'^HSS  ^  9.834,110/.  sterUng,  o^ 
666,898/.  per-annum.  The  fishery  of  1814,  a  year 
peculiariy  fortunate,  produced  1437  whales  from 
breenland,  yielding  19,139  tuns  of  oil,  which,  even  « 
ihe  lowerrate  of  39/.,  including  the  whaleb;)ne  and 

^S'!?!^  '^^  ^  *?  P"^"""  'to™  Davis's  Strait, 
formed  altogether  a  value  of  above  700,000/. 

1  *-A  '"•'''••'  ot  oU  conMlna  from  18  lo  91  ilcknu  or  fVain  17  b.  u 


i-naimr. 

Incluiivo.  During  that 
<l  14,167  ship,  of  which 
idred,  were  lost.  They 
r  3,105,696  qtiardcelen* 
of  boiie,  which  yielded 
B  expemo  of  fitting  out 
9,61!)/.  Value  of  «hipf 
m-pariiiK  the  oil,  bone, 
iBCB,  14,917,160/.;  leav- 
le  Davis's  Strait  flghery, 
•loyed  3161  vessels,  of 
Toduce  was  4,988,936/., 
»f  expenses,  left  a  profit 
Ishery  would  thus  have 
r  cent.,  and  the  Davis's 
Jut  it  may  be  observed, 
natc  of  expenses,  have 
;  of  the  vessels.  In  the 
lown  to  1794,  the  num- 
sixly,  and  the  trade  is 
with  absolute  loss, 
lely  Yielded  a  produce 
at  of  the  Dutch  dwring 
rosperity.  In  the  live 
re  were  imported  into 
0  tuns  of  oil,  and  3430 
aluingr  the  oil  at  36/., 
ivith  10,000/.  in  skins, 
9,834,110/.  sterUnir,  or 
ishery  of  1814,  a  year 
3d  1437  whales  from 
M  of  oil,  which,  even  at 
ing  the  whalebone  and 
ice  from  Davis's  Strait, 
ibove  700,000/. 

to  91  itckaM,  or  turn  77  U>  W 
ilch  pouodi  are  cqiMl  to  iflO  lU 

ito  EnilUi  moMjr,  tte  tola  it 


NOllTinUUf  WHALI'tHRIBT. 


947 


The  foUowins  has  been  furninhed  to  us  from  an 
authentic  source  m  the  result  uf  Uie  fishery  of  tlie  year 
1899,  (UBtinipuBhiiig  the  ports : — 


rorti. 

Nn.of 
Bhlpa. 

Timaafa. 

riab. 

Oil. 

Boaa.       1 

Tuna. 

II7I 

H7 

lUQS 

3Uai 

849 

8ns 

38 
481 
Ml 
I44S 
3S7 

Tona. 

C'wt 

AteffiMn 

Btrwick 

IlundM 

Hull 

11 
33 

M 
3 

3301 
300 

3031 

IO.MM 

l«l 

asas 

714 
1301 

noa 
Sin 

lOU 

84 
II 
77 
33B 
SI 
71 

a 

30 
45 
118 
34 

83 

8 

M 

935 

37 

48 

> 
97 
» 
78 
91 

14 
18 
» 
ID 
0 
4 

a 

11 

10 
18 
8 

Kirkcaldy 

I.«lth 

l/ondon 

HiinlroM 

NawcMlla  .... 

WbUbr 

ToMla.. 

8P 

<IS,HI1 

871 

10,879 

807 

MO 

nriMATlD  TALDI. 

10,679  tuns*  of  oil  at  96/ 966,800/. 

Wtk  tona  whalebone  at  180/ 109,360/. 

376,160/. 

In  the  Commercial  Tables  presented  to  the  House 
of  Commons  in  1830,  the  entire  proceeds  of  last  year 
are  stated  at  498,691/.  6f.  6<i. ;  but  this,  of  course, 
includes  also  the  southern  fishery.  Of  this  amount 
there  were  exported  to  foreign  countries,  oil  to  the 
Talue  of  73,749/.  lOi.  6(/.,  and  whalebone  amounting 
to  40,666/.  ISi.  6d. ;  making  in  all,  114,416/.  6s.  It 
may  be  mentioned,  that  this  trade  is  now  carried 
on  entirely  without  legislative- encouragement,  the 
bounty  having  ceased  to  be  granted  since  the  year 
1894. 

•  It  mar  ba  obaanrcd  that,  In  an  tnaaa  ^atamantt,  the  maaanre  am- 
aloyad  la  tha  tun  of  988  oM  wine  gallona,  aqual  to  900  0-lOUia  Imparial 
jMimlifil  nUooi* 


t48 


IfORTHXRN  WBAU-nSHXRT. 


"niere  has  also  been  a  somewhat  singfular  chanve 
lu  the  ports  from  which  the  fisheiy  is  chiefly  carried 
on.    In  London  were  undertaken  all  the  discoveries 
which  led  to  its  establishment ;  and  for  some  time  a 
complete  m-;jopoly  was  enjoyed  by  the  great  com- 
pames  formed  in  that  city.    Even  between  the  years 
1780  and  1790,  the  metropolia  sent  out  four  times 
the  number  of  vessels  that  sailed  from  any  other 
port.    It  was  observed,  however,  that  her  fishery 
was  on  the  whole  less  fortunate  than  that  of  the  new 
nvals  which  had  sprung  up;  and  her  merchants 
were  so  much  discouraged,  that,  in  Mr.  Scoresby's 
time,  they  equipped  only  seventeen  or  eighteen  ves- 
sels.    They  have  since  almost  entirely  abandoned 
the  trade,  employing  last  year  and  the  present  not 
more  than  two  ships.    Hull  early  became  a  rival  to 
London,  having  sent  out  vessels  at  the  very  com- 
mencement of  the  fishery.    Although  checked  at 
first  by  the  monopoly  of  the  great  companies,  as 
soon  as  the  trade  became  free,  she  prosecuted  it  with 
distinguished  success.  In  the  end  of  the  last  century 
that  town  attained,  and  has  ever  since  preserved, 
the  character  of  the  first  whale-fishing  port  in  Bri- 
tain.   "Whitby  engaged  in  this  pursuit  in  1763,  and 
earned  it  on  for  some  time  with  more  than  common 
success;  but  her  operations  have  since  been  much 
lunited.    liverpool,  after  embarking  in  the  under- 
taking with  spirit,  has  now  entirely  relinquished  it. 
Meantime  the  eastern  ports  of  Scotland  have  steadily 
curried  on,  and  even  extended  their  transactions, 
while  those  of  the  country  at  large  were  diminish- 
ing.   The  increase  has  been  most  remarkable  at 
Peterhead;  jand  indeed  this  town, as  compared  espe- 
cially with  London,  must  derive  a  great  advantage 
from  avoiding,  both  in  the  outward  and  homeward 
voyrge,  600  miles  of  somewhat  difficult  navigation. 
The  following  summary  has  been  collected  from 
Mr.  Scoresby,  as  the  average  quantity  of  shipping 
fitted  out  in  the  different  ports  for  nine  years  ending 


C-nSHXRT. 

iwhat  singular  change 
iheiy  is  chiefly  carried 
ken  all  the  discoveries 
;  and  for  some  time  a 
red  by  the  great  com- 
7en  between  the  years 
a  sent  out  four  times 
lailed  from  any  other 
over,  that  her  fishery 
te  than  that  of  the  new 
;  and  her  merchants 
lat,  in  Mr.  Scoresby's 
iteen  or  eighteen  ves- 
9t  entirely  abandoned 
r  and  the  present  not 
arly  became  a  rival  to 
lels  at  the  very  com- 
/Uthougfa  checked  at 
great  companies,  as 
she  prosecuted  it  with 
md  of  the  last  century 
Bver  since  preserved, 
e-fishing  port  in  Bri- 
I  pursuit  m  1763,  and 
h  more  than  common 
ave  since  been  much 
larking  in  the  under- 
tirely  relinquished  it. 
Scotland  have  steadily 
id  dieir  transactions, 
large  were  diminish- 
most  remarkable  at 
m,aa  compared  espe- 
te  a  great  advant^e 
ward  and  homeward 
it  difficult  navigation. 
9  been  collected  from 
quantity  of  shipping 
for  nine  years  ending 


NORTHBRIf  WnALE-nsRXnT. 


849 


with  1818 ;  and  the  comparison  of  it  with  the  num« 
ber  sent  out  in  1830,  will  show  the  present  state  of 
the  trade  :— 

Average  of 
1810-18.     1830 

EMeiiAND, — Berwick, IX  1 

Grimsby, 1  0 

Hull , 53|  33 

Liverpool, 1  0 

London, 17  :  2 

Lynn, ll  0 

Newcastle 4|  3 

Whitby, St  3 

91|  41 


Scotland,— Aberdeen, lOf  10 

Banff, ,..|  0 

Burntisland, 0  1 

Dundee, 7|  9 

Greenock, I  1 

Kirkcaldy, |  6 

Kirkwall, f  0 

Leith, 8}  7 

Montrose, .31  4 

Peterhead, 6|  13 


40}  60 

lOtflLiy  est  •«••••••«  •lol'J  91 


The  following  list  of  the  ships,  sent  out  in  1830, 
with  the  tonnage  and  masters,  may  interest  some 
classes  of  readers : —     „ 
Gg 


wHM 


360                NORTBERK  WHAIE-FIBHERT 

HULL — 33. 

T 
Ahnm,Jaektoiu  .  . . 

Al&ed,  Bras* 

Andrew  Marvel,  Orton 

Ariel,  Rogers 

Brunswick  Blyth. . . . 
Comet,  WoodaU,  .  . . 

!>nnage. 
.319 
.322 

..377 
.340 
.3.57 
.311 
.374 
.286 
.275 
.289 
.360 
.351 
.360 
.364 
.300 
.316 
.374 

Toi 

Jane,  Maddison 

Kiero,  Martin 

Kirkella,  Carlill 

Laurel,  Manger 

Lee,  Lee 

Lord  Wellington,  Ham 

359 
363 
410 
321 
363 
i- 
354 
385 
262 
286 
307 
320 
328 
305 
360 
281 
342 

Dorton,  Linskill. .... 
Dnncombe,  Scoffin.  . . 

Eagle,  Wright 

Ellison,  Jackson 

Everthorpe,  Johnston. 
Gilder,  M'Kenzie. .  . . 
Harmony,  Bramham. . 
Harmony,  Parker. . . . 
Ingria,   Wilson.  .... 
Isabella,  Humphrey.  . 

Mary  Frances,  Coldray 
North  Briton,  Story. 
Ozenhope,  M'Intosh, . 
Progress,  Dannatt,  .  . 

Swan,  Dring. 

Venerable,  Bennett. . . 
Volunteer,  Markham. . 
William.  North 

William  Torr,  Dannatt 
Zephyr,  Ash 

LONDON — 2. 

Margaret,  Float. . . . 

.  351  1  Neptune,   Wallace.  .  . 

WHITBY 2. 

291 

Phoenix,  Mills. 

] 

.  324  !  William  and  Ann,  Terry 

NEWCASTLS — 3. 

.362 

Cove,  Pdmer 373    Lady  Jane,  Fleming, . 

OrenvilleBay,  Warham.  340 

390 

BERWICK — 1. 

Norfolk,  Harrison, . . 

310 

KIRKCALDY 5. 

Caledonia.  Todd. . . . 

..373 
..319 
..336 

Rambler,  T/iJson. . . . 
Triad,  Youni 

.282 
.«87 

Earl  Percy,  Stewart. 
Egginton,iS(oiar/. . . 

BURNTISLAND — I. 

Majestic,  Davidson. 

TIBHSRT 


B,  Maddison 359 

ro,  Martin 362 

(ella,  Carlill 410 

rel,  Manger 321 

,  Lee 363 

1  Wellington,  Harri' 

m 354 

;  Frances,  CMray,  385 
th  Briton,  Story,  .  262 
nhope,  M'Intosh. .  .  2S6 
Tress,  Dannatt,  .  , ,  307 

m.  Bring. 320 

erable,  Bennett. , .  .  328 
inteer,  Markham. . .  305 

liam,  North 350 

liamTorr,  Dannatt.  281 
hyr,  Ash 342 


tone,   Wallace.  ...  291 


iamand  Ann,  Terry.  362 


jr  Jane,  Fleming, . .  390 


.310 


ibler,  V/utton. 
id,  Younr  . 


..282 
..«87 


—I. 

kon. 


NORTHBRN  WHAIE-PISHERT. 

LBITU — 7. 


351 


_   _  Tonnnge. 

Baffin,  SmitA 321 

Juno,  Lyall 345 

North  Pole,  Smith.  ...  312 
Prince  of  Orange,  Cfuthrie359 


Tonnngs, 

Rattler,  Stodarl 348 

Ulvcrstone,  Liston.  .  .  .  354 
William  and  Ann,  Smith  388 


ABERDEEN— 10, 

Alexander,  Allan.  ....  252 
Bon  Accord,  Parker.  . .  364 

Dee,  Cook 319 

Hercules,  Reid 852 

Lstitia,  Clark 318 


Middleton,  Jame» 298 

Middleton,  Mills 329 

Neptune,  Bruce 282 

Princess  of  Wales,  Gray  308 
Saint  Andrew,  Reed.  .  .  313 


PETERHEAD 13. 


.  Commerce,   Cordiner.  .  241 

♦Eclipse,  Penny 287 

Gleaner,  Shand 262 

Hannibal,  Birnie 315 

Hope,  Volum 251 

James,  Hogg. 346 

♦Mary,  Stewart 157 


♦Perseverance,   Ogston.  240 

Resolution,  Philip 400 

Resolution,  Hogg 291 

Superior,  Manion 306 

Traveller,  Simpson. . .  .  400 
♦Union,  Mackie 224 


DUNDEE — 9. 


Achilles,  Thorns 367 

Advice,  Deuchars 324 

Dorothy,  Davidson. . .  .  369 

Fairy,  Welch 247 

Friendship,  Chapman.  .  304 


Horn,  Stevenson 370 

Princess  Charlotte,  Adam- 
son 357 

Thomas,  Thorns 356 

ThreeBrothers,  Cameron  339 


Eliza  Swan,'  Fulton. . .  306 

London,  Bum 345 

Monarch,  Davidson. ...  311 


XONTSOSB — 6. 


Spencer,  Robertson.  . . .  340 
Johnof  Greenocl^  Comi  316 


In  all,  ninety-one  ships,— four  of  which,  marked  thus  ♦, 
were  for  Greenland,  all  the  others  for  Davis's  Strait. 


■rilM 


S6 


4ReTIC  UEOLOOT* 


CHAPTER  X. 
Arctic  Geology. 

Thf  Geology  of  Spltzbergen,  of  East  or  Old  Green- 
land,  iiid  the  countries  examined  and  discovered  by 
Ross,  ""any,  Scoresby,  and  Clavering,  although  as 
yet  bi,  imperfectly  known,  is  far  from  being  unin 
teresting.  It  exhibits  the  same  series  of  rocks,  and 
the  same  general  arrangements,  as  occur  in  other 
countries,  the  geognostical  structure  of  which  has 
been  thoroughly  explored:  The  fossil  organic  remains 
which,  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  afford  so  much  in- 
formation in  regard  to  the  former  condition  of  the 
climate,  seas,  animals,  and  vegetables  of  the  globe, 
are  not  wanting  in  these  remote  and  desolate  regions ; 
and,  lastly,  the  Arctic  Geology  has  afforded  to  the 
mineralogist  specimens  of  many  of  the  rarer,  and  of 
some  of  the  more  precious  minerals  and  ores : — 

1.  North  Cape,  Cherie  Island,  Hope  Island,  TTie 
Thousand  Islands,  Spitzbergen,  and  Ross's  Islet, 

North  Cape. — The  great  primitive  land  of  Scan- 
dinavia continues  onward  to  the  extreme  point  of 
Norway :  but  in  this  high  latitude  some  new  formp- 
tions  make  their  appearance  among  the  older.  The 
sandstone-quartz  of  Alten  has  been  known  since  the 
travels  of  the  celebrated  Baron  Von  Buch.  On  the 
cast,  towards  the  Russian  dominions,  there  is  a  con- 
sid'irabie  tract  which  deviates  more  from  the  primi- 
tive tbvmation  than  the  sandstone-quartz  of  Alten 
does.  SandstoM  and  conglomerate  extend  across  the 
subjacent  gneiss  in  a  horizontal  position.  These 
evidently  secondary  rocks  probably  belong  to  the  old 
red  sandstone  formation  of  some  authors.    Hence, 


KiiHsmmmm»m 


OOT. 


X. 

gy- 

,  of  East  or  Old  Green, 
led  and  discovered  by 
ilavering,  although  as 
far  from  being  unin 
e  series  of  rocks,  and 
Its,  as  occur  in  other 
ructure  of  which  has 
fossil  organic  remains 
Id,  afford  so  much  in- 
rmer  condition  of  the 
getables  of  the  globe, 
I  and  desolate  regions ; 
r  has  afforded  to  the 
ly  of  the  rarer,  and  of 
tierals  and  ores : — 
md,  Hope  Island,  The 
and  Ross's  Islet. 
imitive  land  of  Scan- 
the  extreme  point  of 
ude  some  new  formp- 
mong  the  older.  The 
been  known  since  the 
1  Von  Buch.  On  the 
inions,  there  is  a  con- 
more  from  the  primi- 
itone*quartz  of  Alten 
rate  extend  across  the 
ital  position.  These 
)ably  belong  to  the  old 
me  authors.    Hence, 


ROPB   ISLAND. 


859 


in  Finmark  we  find  ourselves  on  the  edge  of  a  great 
secondary  basin. 

Cher^  Island. — The  first  land  which  rises  above 
the  level  of  the  ocean  in  the  Arctic  sea,  beyond  the 
North  Cape,  is  the  small  Cherie  Island  (Dear  Island), 
about  10  miles  long,  in  north  latitude  74°  SO*,  lon(r. 
80°  E.,  which  isentirelycomposedof  secondary  rocks 
horizontally  stratified,  and  cut  perpendicularly  on  the 
coast  into  cliffs.  The  principal  mcks  are  sandstone 
and  limestone,  in  which  veins  of  leadglance  or  sul- 
phuret  of  lead,  sometimes  containing  native  silver, 
occur.  The  limestone  abounds  in  shells  in  a  fossil 
state ;  but  shells  very  different  from  those  that  at 
present  inhabit  these  northern  seas :  the  sandstone 
contains  a  bed  of  coal,  from  two  to  lour  feet  thick, — 
a  fact  subversive  of  that  opinion  ^vilich  maintains  that 
coal  is  wanting  in  Arctic  countries.  In  Scoresby's 
drawing  of  Cherie  Island  three  conical  hills  are  re- 
presented ;  these,  in  all  probabiUty,  are  of  igneous 
origin,  probably  secondary  trap. 

Hope  Island  and  The  Thousand  Islands. — Farther 
towards  the  north  the  depth  of  the  sea  is  so  incon- 
siderable and  unvarjring,  that  seamen,  after  seeing 
the  horizontal  strata  of  Cherie  Island,  conclude  that, 
in  their  course  northward,  they  sail  first  over  the 
horizontal  basis  of  Cherie  Island,  and  next  over  strata 
which  are  visible  in  Hope  Island  and  the  Archipelago 
of  The  Thousand  Islands.  The  strata  visible  in 
Hope  Island  and  the  Archipelago  of  The  Thousand 
Islands  are  said  to  be  of  blacKish  clay-slate.  Hope 
Island,  situate  on  the  south  coast  of  Edge's  Island, 
lies  in  N.  lat.  76°  20',  and  longitude  20°  E.  It  is 
nine  leagues  long,  but  scarcely  a  mile  broad,  and 
lies  N.E.  by  E.,  and  $.W.  by  W.  It  consists  of  five 
mountains:  the  northernmost  one  is  the  highest;  and 
those  succeeding  diminish  gradually  in  size.  The 
Thousand  Islands  is  a  large  group  of  small  isles  in« 
terposed  between  Hope  Island  and  the  south  coast 
of  Edge's  Island. 


I 


'^*; 


854 


AaonO  OBOLOOT. 


SpUzberretu—ThiB  large  island,  although  not  the 
most  northern  known  land,  is  nearly  so.  It  lies 
between  latitudes  76°  30«  and  80°  7'  N.,  and  between 
the  longitudes  9°  and  98°  £.  On  taking  a  general 
view  of  this  island,  the  principal  object  that  strikes 
the  eye  are  numberless  mountain-peaks,  ridges,  and 
precipices,  rising  immediately  from  the  sea  often  to 
a  hei^t  from  3000  to  4600  feet  above  the  sea-level. 
The  various  brown,  green,  and  purple  tints  of  the 
land,  as  seen  from  a  distance,  are  strikingly  con- 
trasted with  the  snow-capped  summits,  ridges,  and 
acclivities,  and  the  valleys  filled  with  snow  or  with 
Racier-ice;  which  latter  often  extend  downwards  to 
.the  coast,  forming  splendid  and  lofty  icy-cliiTs,  from 
100  to  400  feet  high.  On  the  east  coast  are  two 
large   islands,  viz.  £dge*t  bland  and  Aorth-eait 

On  approaching  towards  the  west  side  of  Stant' 
fordand,  on  the  east  coast  of  Edee'i  Land  or  Island, 
between  77°  and  78°  north  latitude,  the  lowest  rock 
is  a  coarse  gnmular  trap,  split  by  means  of  vertical 
rents  into  imperfect  columns.    This  bed  forms  a  flat 
extent  of  coast  of  about  ten  miles  and  a  quarter  broad, 
and  forty-one  miles  long;  and  is  the  base  or  funda- 
mental rook  of  an  alternation  of  fine  granular  tand- 
stone,  an  arenaceous  marl-elate,  compact  eiliceous 
limettone,  and  frequent  repetitions  of  the  trap-iook. 
Organic  remains  were  not  met  with  either  in  the 
sandstone  or  limestone  bv  Professor  Keilhau;  but  in 
some  specimens  collected  at  Cape  Faneshaw,  in  that 
part  of  Spitsbergen  named  A«»  Frieeland,  by  the 
officers  of  Captain  Parry's  expedition,  we  noticed 
silicified  tnadrtpoiree,  retepores,  orthoceratites,  tere- 
irattdites,  and  earditei.   This  same  formation  extends 
to  north  latitude  80°,  and  is  conjectured  by  Kielhau 
to  form  the  greater  part  of  East  Spitzbergen.    It  is 
true  that  some  boulders  of  granite  were  met  with, 
but  these  may  have  come  from  the  great  primitive 
chain  of  West  Spitzbergen.   Professor  Keilhau  found 


>0T. 

ind,  although  not  the 
3  nearly  so.  It  lies 
0°  7' N.,  and  between 
On  taking  a  general 
al  object  that  strikes 
lin-peaks,  ridges,  and 
(rom  the  sea  often  to 
above  the  sea-level. 
i  purple  tints  of  the 
,  are  strikingly  con- 
nmunits,  ridges,  and 
id  with  snow  or  with 
ixtend  downwards  to 
lofty  icy-cliffs,  from 
east  coast  are  two 
and  and  Northrtatt 

west  side  of  Statu- 
dge'i  Land  or  Island, 
ade,  the  lowest  rock 
l>y  means  of  vertical 
This  bed  forms  a  flat 
I  and  a  quarter  broad, 
is  the  Imse  or  funda- 
(fine  granular  $and- 
!,  compact  tiliceou$ 
ms  of  the  trap-rook. 

with  either  in  the 
ssor  Keilhau ;  but  in 
le  Faneshaw,  in  that 
V  Friesland,  by  the 
ledition,  we  noticed 

orthocerattteSf  ten- 
le  formation  extends 
jectured  by  Kielhau 

Spitsbergen.  It  is 
[lite  were  met  with, 
I  the  great  primitive 
feasor  Keilhau  found 


•WPK* 


BPITZBEROSN 


S58 


an  interesting  deposite  of  tkelUday  in  Stansforeland, 
in  which  the  same  kinds  of  fossil-shells  were  found 
as  in  a  similar  clay  on  thti  southern  coasts  of  Norway. 
This  deposite  extends  onwards  nine  and  a  half  miles 
from  the  shore,  and  rises  100  feet  above  the  present 
level  of  the  sea.    Bones  of  whales  have  been  seen 
in  The  Thousand  Isles,  at  a  considerable  height 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  probably  imbedded  in 
this  ihell-day.    Are  we  to  infer,  from  the  situation 
of  this  modem  clay,  that  Spitzbergen  has  risen  from 
the  bgttom  of  the  sea  at  a  comparatively  recent 
period?    Limestone,  like  that  at  Cape  Faneshaw, 
occurs  in  the  island  named  the  Jiorth-east  Land,  on 
the  east  coast  of  Spitzbergen.    The  officers  of  Cap- 
tain Parry's  expedition  also  found  granite  there. 
The  west  and  north  coast  of  Spitzbergen  are  com- 
posed principally  of  older  rocks,  viz.  primitive  and 
sometimes  transition  rocks.    The  primitive  rocks  of 
West  Spitzbergen  appear  at  the  South  Cape  in  latj- 
tude  76i°.  They  are  vertical  strata  of  mica-slate,  with 
numerous  beds  of  quartz,  ranging  from  north-east  to 
south-west.    In  mm  Sound  and  Bell  Sound  these 
rocks  form  the  high  land ;  and  to  judge  from  the 
form  of  the  mountams,  these  or  other  primitive  rocks 
ascend  higher  on  the  west  coast.     The  primitive 
rocks  near  South  Cape  appear  in  part  overlaid  with 
the  sheU-clay.     A  new  formation  of  red  sandstone 
and  gypsum  occufs  westward  along  trie  seacoast  in 
fiords  under  the  high  chains,  and  also  in  small  low 
islands  which  lie  in  front  of  the  coast.    In  the  year 
1836,  sea-horse  fishers  from  Finmark  brought  sixty 
tons  of  coal  from  Ice  Sound,  in  north  latitude  78°,  to 
Hammerfest  in  Norway;  and  we  are  informed  by 
Scoresby,  that  the  coal  is  so  easily  procured,  that 
many  of  the  Dutch  fishers  a  few  years  s«o,  were  in 
the  habit  of  laying  in  a  stock  of  this  useful  mineral, 
for  fuel  on  the  passage  homeward.     The  coal  of 
Spitzbergen  which  extends  beyond  north  latitude 
79°,  resembles  in  some  places  caimel  coal ;  in  others 


iuOhdiW 


806 


ARCTIO   OKOlOOr. 


it  is  brown  coal  or  liniite.  Scoresby,  a  little  to  the 
north  of  north  latitude  79°,  at  Mitre  Cape,  observed 
the  hills  to  be  composed  of  gneiss,  mica-slate,  and 
limestone,— and  in  King's  Bay,  a  little  to  the  south 
of  this  cliff,  on  the  coast,  natural  arches  of  marble. 
On  the  north  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  in  some  points, 
as  at  Red  Beach,  secondary  rocks  of  red  sandstone, 
probably  new  red  sandstone,  occur;  but  the  prevail- 
ing rocks  are  of  an  older  date,  being  principally  pri 
niitive,  with  less  frequently  rocks  of  the  transition 
class.  The  primitive  rocks  mentioned  in  Parry's 
narrative  are  granite,  gneiss,  mica-slate,  hornblende- 
•late,  primitive  limestone  or  marble,  quartz-rock, 
dolomite  marble,  chlorite-slate,  and  clay-slate.  In 
the  mica-slate  precious  garnets  were  frequently  met 
with.  The  transition  rocks  were  principally  clay- 
elate,  quartz-rock,  and  limestone.  In  some  points 
alluvial  deposites  were  met  with,  and  brvam  coal  or 
lignite,  either  of  new,  secondary,  or  of  tertiary  for- 
mation, was  noticed. 

Mqffen  Island,  a  small  low  island,  lying  on  the 
north  side  of  Spitzbergen,  in  north  latitude  80°  1', 
longitude  12°  43'  east,  was  visited  by  Mulgrave,  who 
says  it  had  not  been  noticed  by  the  older  navigators. 
It  may  be  of  new  formation,  and,  as  Scoresby  re- 
marks, has  probably  been  thrown  up  by  the  currents 
from  each  side  of  Spitzbergen,  meeting.  It  is  of  a 
roundish  form,  about  two  miles  in  diameter,  and  has 
a  shallow  lake  in  the  middle.  The  lake,  when  Scores- 
by saw  it,  was  frozen  over,  except  thirty  or  forty 
yards  round  the  edge,  and  this  near  the  end  of  July. 
The  whole  island  is  covered  with  gravel,  and  with- 
out the  least  vegetation.  It  is  but  a/ewfeet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  The  only  piece  of  drift-wood  found 
on  it  by  Mulgrave,  which  was  about  tliree  fathoms 
long,  and  as  thick  as  the  n)izen-mast  of  a  ship,  hsid 
been  thrown  over  the  sea-beach  and  laynear  the  lake. 
Captain  Parry  landed  on  several  islands  on  thenortli- 
ero  coast,  viz.  l,ow  Island  about  seven  miles  long, 


oor. 

oresby,  a  little  to  tbe 
Mitre  Cape,  observed 
fieiss,  mica-slate,  and 
r,  a  little  to  the  south 
ral  arches  of  marble, 
rgen,  in  some  points, 
cks  of  red  sandstone, 
jcur;  but  the  prevail- 
being  principally  pri 
cks  of  the  transition 
nentioned  in  Parry's 
ica-slate,  hornblende- 
marble,  quartZ'TOck, 
,  and  clay-slate.  In 
were  frequently  met 
fere  principally  clay- 
le.  In  some  points 
h,  and  brtrwn  coal  or 
■y,  or  of  tertiary  for- 

island,  lying  on  the 
north  latitude  80°  1', 
;ed  by  Mulgrave,  who 
the  older  navigators, 
ind,  as  Scoresby  re- 
vn  up  by  the  currents 
meeting.  It  is  of  a 
in  diameter,  and  has 
le  lake,  when  Scores- 
iccept  thirty  or  forty 
near  the  end  of  July, 
th  gravel,  and  with- 
i/  a/ewfeet  above  the 
i  of  drift-wood  found 
about  three  fathoms 
i-mast  of  a  ship,  had 
and  lavnear  the  lake, 
islands  on  thenortli- 
it  seven  miles  lon|f, 


JAN  HAYKNS   ISLAND. 


SAT 


V  hich  appeared  composed  pf  transition  quartz-rock. 
t^AldenMetOn  which  werj  ^-und  primitive  gramtes, 
quartz-rock,  and  gneiss}  iifd  JRm»'»  Wei,  a  remark- 
able  spot,  the  most  northern  known  land  of  the  globe, 
being  situated  in  north  latitude  80°  48i',  he  found  to 
be  composed  of  ^roy  and  ndduhgraniie-gnntt,  viihtch 
it  very  coaru,  gratuUar,  occaiionaUy  porvhyrttte,  vnth 
imbedded  prtdout  gameU;  alto  afteth-rtd  vaneiy 

of  Ae  tame  rock,  

Remarks.— From  the  preceding  details,  it  appears 
that  Spitzbergen  and  its  neighbouring  isles  afford 
rocks  belonging  to  five  of  the  great  classes  admitted 
by  geologists,— namely,  primitive,  transition,  secon- 
dary, tertiary  (1),  and  alluvial.  No  true  volcamc 
rocks  are  mentioned  by  authors.  Ores  are  of  rare 
occunence,  small  portions  of  iron-pyrites  and  of  cfey 
iron-stone  being  the  only  metalliferous  minerals 
enumerated.  The  dolomite-marble  of  Hecla  Cove, 
mentioned  by  Parry,  agrees  in  colour,  sixe  oip^a, 
and  other  characters,  with  the  statuary  marble  of 
Italy.  In  these  islands  the  precious  garnet  is  met 
with.  Its  occurrence  on  Ross's  Islet,  and  its  known 
distribution  in  other  countries,  shows  that  the  pre- 
ciout  garnet,  qf  all  the  gemt,  hat  the  widest  geo- 
graphical range,  extending,  m  the  ."wrlA^rn  AmM- 
phere.frtm  the  equator  to  the  high  laiUitde  80°  48V 

"  Jan  Mayen's  Island.— This  island,  according  to 
Scoresby,  is  situated  between  the  latitudes  of  70° 
49*  north,  and  71°  8'  20"  north,  and  between  the 
longitudes  of  7°  36'  and  8°  44'  west.  It  »  about 
ten  leagues  long  from  north-east  to  south-west,  and 
is  in  no  place  above  three  leagues  in  breadth.  The 
peak  of  Beeienberg,  the  highest  summit  mthe  island, 
Scoresby  found  to  be  6870  feet  above  the  sea,  conse- 
quently higher  than  any  of  the  summits  m  Spitzber- 
gen and  Greenland.  It  was  seen  by  Scoresby  at 
the  distance  of  100  miles.  The  fbllowing  account 
of  the  geognosy  of  the  only  part  of  the  island  hitherto 


■AM 


858 


AKOnO  OEOLnoT. 


examined  is  give?)  hy  Scoresby,  and  we  know  it  it 
correct,  having  in  our  poBBcssion  the  specimens  col- 
lected during  the  excursion  :— 

"I  left  my  ship,"  says  Captain  Scoresby,  "  at  three 
quarters  past  one  in  the  morning,  accompanied  by 
Captains  Js  ikson  and  Bennet,  whose  snips  wern 
near  at  thp  amc,  and  landed  at  half-pBst  two,  amid 
a  considerable  surf,  on  a  beach  covered  with  a  coarse 
black  sand.  This  sand,  which  formed  a  very  thick 
bed,  covered  over  im  extent  of  two  -  Hirce  miles,  and 
about  a  furlong  in  breadth.    It'  ixtureoftVon 

land,  augitc,  and  olivineor  rhry  riie  bhick  parts, 

which  were  very  heiivy,  and  attracitd  by  the 

magnet,  had  an  appearance  oa.^  ;  gunpowder. 

After  a  few  feet  rise,  forming  mk  of  black 

■and,  the  strand  proceeded  inli  >>n  a  horizontal 
line  for  aliout  a  fourth  of  a  mile,  where  if  was  ter- 
minated by  irregular  cliiTs.  The  stran  I  appeared 
to  have  been  occasionally  covered  with  the  sea,  as 
it  was  strewed  with  drift-wood,  part  of  which  was 
tolerably  good  timber,  and  the  rest  bruised  and  a 
little  worm-eaten.  I  had  not  advanced  many  paces 
before  I  observed  signs  of  a  volcano.  Fragments 
of  compact  and  vesicular  lava  were  met  with  at  every 
step ;  blocks  of  burned  clay  were  next  met  with ; 
ana,  nearer  the  cliif,  large  masses  of  red  clay,  partly 
baked,  but  still  in  a  finable  state,  occurred  in  great 
abundance.  Numerous  pointed  rocks,  probably  of 
the  trap  formation,  were  projecting  through  the  sand. 
One  of  these,  which  was  vesicular  basalt,  had  numer- 
ous grains  and  crystals  of  augite  imbedded  in  it. 
Along  with  these  was  a  rock  nearly  allied  in  appear- 
ance to  the  celebrated  millstone  or  vesicular  basalt 
of  Andemach.  After  leaving  the  sea-shore,  I  per- 
ceived no  other  mineral  but  such  as  bore  undoubted 
marks  of  recent  volcanic  action,  viz.  cinders,  earthy 
slag,  burnt  clav,  scoriae,  vesicular  lava.  The  place 
from  whence  these  substances  appear  to  have  been 
discharged  being  neari  we  attempted  to  reach  it.    In 


OOT. 

)r,  and  we  know  it  i* 
n  the  speciiiiern  col- 

fi  Scoresby,  "  at  three 
ing,  accompanied  by 
,  whose  snips  wero 
half-past  two,  amid 
jovered  with  a  coarse 
formed  a  very  thick 
vo  •    iiircemile8,and 

I xture  of  iron 
lilt;  black  parts, 
:irfra(;i:dby  the 

■  gunpowder. 

iiik  of  black 
11  1  horizontal 
If,  where  if  was  ter- 
'he  strand  appeared 
red  with  the  sea,  as 
I,  part  of  which  was 
3  rest  bruised  and  a 
dvanced  many  paces 
'olcano.  Fragments 
jre  met  with  at  every 
ere  next  met  with; 
B8  of  red  clay,  partly 
te,  occurred  in  great 
I  rocks,  probably  of 
ng  through  the  sand. 
trbaaalt^ad  numer- 
gite  imbedded  in  it. 
irly  allied  in  appear- 
i  or  vesicular  basalt 
he  sea-shore,  I  per- 
1  as  bore  undoubted 
,  viz.  cinders,  earthy 
ar  lava.  The  place 
appear  to  have  been 
pted  to  reach  it.    In 


JAN    MAYIN'a   ISLAKP. 


SM 


performing  the  ascent,  the  steepness  of  the  hill  and 
the  looseness  of  the  materials  made  the  undertaking 
not  a  little  arduous.    We  frequently  slid  backwards 
several  paces,  by  the  pieces  of  lava  giving  way  be- 
neath oui  feet ;  in  which  case  the  ground  generally 
resounded  as  if  we  had  been  travellmg  on  empty  me- 
tallic vessels  or  vaulted  caverns.    The  baked  clay, 
and  other  loose  rocks,  consisted  chiefly  of  large 
masses  at  the  bottom  i>f    '  '  hill;  but  about  the 
middle  of  the  ascent  i'.  '/,     .ibstances  were    in 
smaller  fragments.    T>.>VfrM    i   3  top,  blocks  of 
half-baked  red  cIhv,   op.KiiDiajt  many  crystals  of 
augite,  wero  again  (nbtwith;  iri  t  about  the  south* 
em  part  of  the  summit,  a  ruyged  wall  of  the  same 
sort  occurred,  giving  the  mo'intain  a  castellated 
form  of  no  small  magiiiflcence.    On  reaching  this 
summit,  estimated  at  1500  feet  above  the  sea,  we 
beheld  a  beautiful  crater,  forming  a  basin  of  600  oi 
600  feet  in  depth,  and  600  or  700  yards  in  diameter. 
It  was  of  a  circular  form,  and  both  the  interior  and 
the  sides  had  a  similar  inclination.    The  bottom  of 
file  crater  was  filled  with  alluvial  matter  to  such  a 
neight,  that  it  presented  a  horizontal  flat  of  an  ellip- 
tical form,  measuring  400  feet  by  340.    A  subterra- 
Bean  cavern  penetrated  the  side  of  the  crater  at  the 
Aottom,  from  whence  a  spring  of  water  issued,  which, 
after  running  a  sliort  distance  towards  the  south, 
disappeared  in  the  sand.    From  this  eminence  we 
had  a  most  interesting  prospect.    Towards  the  north 
appeared  Beerenberg,  now  first  seen  free  from  clouds, 
rising  in  great  m^esty  into  the  region  of  perpetual 
frost.    At  the  foot  of  the  mount,  on  the  tjuth-east 
side,  near  a  stupendous  accumulation  of  lava,  bearing 
the  castellated  form,  was  another  crater  of  simdar 
form  to  the  one  described  above.     Towards  the 
■outh-west  the  utmost  extent  of  the  island  was 
visible ;  while  towards  the  north  a  thick  fog  ob- 
scured the  prospect,  which,  as  it  advanced  m  uately 
grandeur  towards  us,  gradually  shrouded  the  dis* 


f 


89w 


AROno  OtOLOOT. 


tout   aeenery,   until  the    nearer  mountains  wot» 
wrapped  in  impenetrable  gloom.    The  Ma  at  the 
•ame  time  was  calm,  the  sun  bright,  and  the  at- 
mosphere of  half  the  hemisphere  without  a  cloud. 
Excepting  the  interest  excited  by  the  volcano,  Bcer- 
enbeiv  sunk  every  other  object  into  comparative 
insignlflcance.    A  rocky  hill,  with  a  precipitous  side 
'owards  the  sea,  lying  a  little  to  the  westward,  I 
iescended  towards  it  from  the  ridge  of  the  crater, 
with  the  expectation  of  finding  some  other  kind  of 
(Tck  than  what  had  yet  been  met  with.    It  was 
found  to  consist  only  of  a  cliff  of  yellowish  gray 
Iriable  earth  or  clay,  in  which  crystals  of  augite, 
along  with  black  roundish  granular  pieces  of  basalt, 
lay  imbedded.    A  piece  of  iron,  which  appeared  to 
have  been  derived  from  ironstone  by  a  smelting  pro. 
cess  conducted  in  the  fhmace  of  naXtite,  was  found 
near  the  volcanic  mount.    Being  very  cimibrous,  it 
wa»  laid  aside  by  our  party  as  we  ascended,  and  un. 
fortunatelT  left  behind  by  as  when  we  quitted  the 
shore.    The  cliffs  here  afforded  but  few  specimens 
of  plants.    Indeed,  we  travelled  a  considerable  dis- 
tance before  we  could  perceive  the  least  sign  of  vege- 
tation ;  as  we  advanced,  however,  we  met  with  tufts 
of  plants  in  ftill  lldwer,  scattered  widely  among  the 
volcanic  rocka ;  but,  under  the  last  cUff  we  visited, 
the  variety  was  greater  and  the  specimens  more 
vigorous.    Among  the  plants  we  recognised  rumex 
digynus,  saxiftaga  tricuspidata,  and  OK»dtifblia, 
uvnana  peploides,  silene  acaulis,  draba  vema,  &c. 
We  returned  to  the  ships  at  six  in  the  evening.    A 
nsl-'ng  party  which  I  sent  out.  proving  unsuccessful 
m  toe  offing,  approached  the  shore  about  two  miles 
to  the  eastward  of  the  place  we  visited,  where,  though 
the  surf  was  very  conaiderable,  and  the  strand  tery 
contracted,  they  eflbcCed  a  landing.    They  observed 
oiii::.!  drift-wood,  a  boafii  oar,  a  ship's  mast,  and 
•pine  other  wrought  wbod,  scattered  atong  the  shore. 
Eve^  rock  they  noticed,  and  all  the  specimens  they 


mr  mounUhta  w«n 
om.    The  Ma  at  the 
in  bright,  and  the  at< 
lere  without  a  cloud, 
by  the  volcano,  Beer* 
ect  into  comparative 
vith  a  precipitous  side 
e  to  the  westward,  I 
0  ridge  of  the  crater, 
;  some  other  khid  of 
n  met  with.    It  was 
liflTof  yellowish  gray 
:h  crystals  of  augite, 
lular  pieces  of  basalt, 
1,  which  appeared  to 
>ne  by  a  smelting  pro> 
of  natm%,  was  found 
ng  very  cumbrous,  it 
we  ascended,  and  un< 
vhen  we  Quitted  the 
d-  but  few  specimens 
id  a  considerable  dis- 
the  least  signofvege- 
er,  we  met  with  tufts 
ed  widely  among  the 
last  cliff  we  visited, 
the  specimena  more 
ve  recognised  nunex 
a,  and  oppodtifblia, 
lis,  draba  vema,  &c. 
t  in  the  evening.    A 
proving  unsuccessful 
ore  about  two  miles 
{sited,  where,  though 
and  the  strand  tery 
ing.    They  observed 
a  ship's  mast,  and 
eredalonffthe  shore. 
i  the  spectmens  they 


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OLD   ORBENLANl).  ' 

brought  away,  bore  the  same  volcanic  character  as 
those  I  observed.  Near  some  large  fissm-es,  which 
here  and  there  occurred  in  the  rocky  and  precipitous 
cliff,  immense  henps  of  lava  were  seen,  which  ap- 
peared to  have  been  poured  out  of  these  chinks  in 
the  rock.  Cinders,  earthy  slag,  iron-sand,  and  frag- 
ments of  trap-rocks,  covered  the  beach  and  so  much 
of  the  cliff  as  they  had  an  opportunity  of  examining. 
The  volcano  discovered  in  this  excursion  I  ventured 
to  name  Esk  Mount,  after  the  ship  I  commanded, 
and  the  bay  where  we  landed  Jameson  Bay,  in  re- 
membrance of  my  friend  Professor  Jameson." 

Captain  Scoresby  farther  remarks,  that  Esk  Mount 
appears  to  have  been  in  action  in  the  spring  of  the 
following  year;  for,  on  the  39th  of  April,  1818,  being 
off  Jameson  Bay,  he  observed  near  to  Esk  Mount 
considerable  jets  of  smoke  discharged  at  intervals 
from  the  earth.  The  smoke  was  projected  with 
great  velocity,  and  seemed  to  rise  to  twice  the  height 
of  the  land,  or  about  4000  feet.  Captain  Gilyott,  a 
Greenland  fisher,  also  observed  the  same  appear- 
ance, with  this  addition,  that  once  he  noticed  a  shin- 
ing redness  resembling  the  embers  of  an  immense 
fire.  This  fact  serves  to  account  for  some  strange 
noises  heard  by  the  seven  Dutch  seamen  who  at- 
tempted to  winter  here  in  the  year  1633-4.  In  the 
beginning  of  the  night  of  the  8th  of  September,  in 
particular,  they  "were  frightened  by  a  noise  as  if 
something  had  fallen  very  heavy  on  the  ground ;  but 
saw  nothing."  This,  instead  of  being  the  fall  of  an 
iceberg,  as  some  have  supposed,  was  probably  a 
volcanic  phenomenon. 

3.  Old  Greenland.— This  extensive  land,  which, 
according  to  some,  is  a  continuation  of  the  continent 
of  America,  while  others  view  it  as  a  group  of  large 
islands,  extends  from  north  latitude  59°  14',  to  72* 
.•56'  north  latitude.  The  few  details  regarding  its 
geology  we  owe  to  Giesecke,  who  spent  many  years 
on  the  west  coast,— Scoresby,  who  explored  th« 
Hh 


.^^''' 


r 


362 


ARCTIC   OEOLOOT. 


east  coast,— and  Captain  Ross,  who  sailed  to  the  top 
of  Baffin's  Bay.  " 

East  Coast  of  Greenland.— Th\a  iron-bound  coast 
is  barren,  rugged,  and  mountainous ;  and  even  in  the 
wanner  seasons  of  the  year  but  few  animals  or 
vegetables  assist  in  varying  the  monotonous  and 
dreary  scene.  The  average  elevation  of  the  coast 
IS  about  3000  feet.  Several  mountains  measured  by 
Scoresby  on  the  Liverpool  coast  were  found  to  be 
4000  feet;  and  Werner  Mountains  in  Davy  Sound 
were  estimated,  by  the  distance  at  which  they  were 
seen,  and  the  elevation  they  assumed  above  the  ordi- 
nary mountains,  to  be  6000  feet.  In  the  interesting 
^  account  of  the  exploratory  voyage  of  a  late  distin- 
guished officer,  Captain  Clavering,  published  in  the 
ninth  volume  of  the  New  Edinburgh  Philosophical 
Journal,  it  is  stated,  that  on  the  coast  to  the  north- 
ward of  the  part  surveyed  by  Scoresby,— that, 
namely,  examined  by  Captain  Clavering,— the  moun- 
tains are  from  3000  to  4000  feet  high.  Scoresby's 
survey  extended  particularly  from  Cape  Barclay  and 
Knighton  Bay,  m  about  north  latitude  69°,  to  Cape 
Pairy  in  about  north  latitude  72°  30' ;  that  of  Cap 
tain  Clavering  from  Cape  Parry  to  an  island  ujider 
north  latitude  76° :  the  coast  downwards  to  Staaten 
Hook  and  Cape  Farewell  to  about  north  latitude  59° 
30*,  is  m  part  described  by  Crantz,  but  much  of  it  is 
entirely  unknown. 

The  tract  examined  by  Scoresby  appe-  rs  to  be 
principally  of  primitive  rock.  Secondary  rocks  also 
occur,  but  the  transition  are  the  least  frequent.  On 
the  beaches,  and  at  the  head  of  friths,  alluvial  depo- 
sites  were  noticed. 

Tlic  primitive  rocks  noticed  were,  granite,  gneiss, 
mica-slate,  hcriiblende-slate,  syenite,  and  clay-slate. 
These  rocks  exiiibit  in  that  remote  region  the  same 
varieties  of  structure  as  those  on  the  west  coast  of 
Greenland,  and  these  again  do  not  differ  from  the 
puiuitive  rocks  of  Uiiiain  and  otJier  countries ;  thus 


aav. 

,  who  sailed  to  the  top 

rhis  iron-bound  coast 
lous ;  and  even  in  the 
but  few  animals  or 
the  monotonous  and 
levation  of  the  coast 
ountains  measured  by 
ast  were  found  to  be 
;ajn8  in  Davy  Sound 
e  at  which  they  were 
sumed  above  the  ordi- 
t.  In  the  interesting 
yrage  of  a  late  distin- 
ing,  published  in  the 
iburgh  Philosophical 
B  coast  to  the  north- 
by  Scoresby,— that, 
ilavering,— the  moun- 
et  high.  Scoresby's 
om  Cape  Barclay  and 
latitude  69°,  to  Cape 
72°  30';  that  of  Cap 
f  to  an  island  under 
>wnwards  to  Staaten 
Jut  north  latitude  59° 
itz,  but  much  of  it  is 

resby  appe'TS  to  be 

Secondary  rocks  also 

E  least  frequent.    On 

friths,  alluvial  depo- 

vere,  granite,  gneiss, 
jnite,  and  clay-slate, 
lote  region  the  same 
»u  the  west  coast  of 
not  differ  from  the 
tJier  countries ;  thus 


EAST  COAST  OF  OREENIAND. 


363 


ttflbrdinpr  another  proof  of  the  uniformity  of  charac- 
ter, similarity  of  position,  and  universality  of  distri- 
bution of  primitive  rocks  in  all  parts  of  the  world. 
Judging  from  what  is  known  of  the  imbedded  mine- 
rals on  the  west  coast  of  East  Greenland,  and  reflect, 
ing  on  the  agreement  of  the  rocks,  both  on  the  east 
and  west  sides  of  the  country,  we  may  infer,  that  if 
Scoresby  had  had  leisure  for  more  minute  investi- 
gation, his  scientific  zeal  would  have  been  rewarded 
by  the  discovery  of  the  hitherto  rare  cryolite,  the 
sodalite,  and  allanite,  with  magnificent  tourmalines 
and  garnets,  interesting  varieties  of  zircon,  splendid 
specimens  of  hyperstene,  the  remarkable  dichroite, 
and  with  all  the  species  of  the  felspar  genue.    There 
does  not  appear  any  reason  why  the  ores  of  iron, 
lead,  tin,  and  copper  of  the  v/est  coast  should  not 
also  occur  in  the  same  rocks  upon  the  east ;  and  the 
fine  displays  of  apatate,  calcareous  spar,  Jluor  spar, 
and  of  other  simple  minerals  on  the  west  coast,  which 
have  been  a  source  of  so  much  instruction  and  de- 
.ightful  contemplation  to  the  scientific  observer,  may 
ill  some  future  voyage  present  themselves  in  the 
newly-discovered  countries  to  the  eye  and  the  intelli- 
gence  of  the  naturalist.    The  sj»ecimens  of  transition 
clay-slate  picked  up  by  Scoresby,  prove  the  existence 
of  rocks  of  that  class  in  Greenland,  and  thus  add  a 
new  feature  to  its  geognosy ;  for  Giesecke  does  not 
enumerate  any  of  the  slates  he  met  with  as  belonging 
to  the  transition  class.    This  fact  is  also  a  farther 
proof  of  the  wide  distribution  of  these  rocks ;  and 
shows,  in  opposition  to  certain  speculative  views,  that 
they  are  not  confined  to  a  few  narrow  comers  of  the 
globe,  but,  like  granite,  gneiss,  &c.,  may  be  consi- 
dered as  occurring  in  most  extensive  tracts  of  coun- 
try, and  that,  therefore,  the  series  is  to  be  associated 
with  the  imiversal  formations.    We  do  not  know- 
any  other  examples  of  transition  rocks  having  been 
found  in  so  high  a  latitude.    Tlie  secondary  rocks 
met  with  are  referable  to  two  formations,  one  aque 


j. 


-ARCTIC  OEOLOOV. 

Sn^  "  '^  PO'-Myry  *«"«.  This  coal-formation 
for  fhp  fi  "t  ?""  °"  ^i"  '^''«*  ''°^''  a»d  was  met  with 
.«m«  f  '^^  V"*^ '"  Greenland  by  Scoresby.  It  is  the 
ET„h,S^^- °\^'  ^^^'-  ^^'''^  abounds  all  around 
wK  5  '■*"  short.  It  18  that  important  deposite  in 

E5SnJX"lw  "^  Z'^"  ^^"'  coal-mines  i^  Scot" 
land  and  England.  It  was  met  with  only  in  Jame. 
sm  s  Land  yvhere  it  forms  the  principal  de^site,  and 

fffordiia  i'ntr""''^  ■'?  peculiar  characters  s'tS 
affording  wiother  example  of  the  connexion  of  the 

fT^h?^  P""""^""^  '■T'"^  °f  ^''«  surface  of  a  coin! 
T^iltr^l^^^^T^''^^  ^^^'^^^^  and  composition. 
S,t«  S^fnT  ^^'^y.'  •=°"'^">«  impressions  and 
casts  of  plants  which  have  a  tropical  aspect,-a  cir- 
cumstance  of  high  interest,  when  combined  with  ?he 
Arctic  situation  of  the  coal.  The  coal-formation  ij 
Melville  Island,  m  north  latitude  75°,  where  the  sum 

s^e^Li'^of  ':."ri."  ^'^  '"'?'"''  '  '■«»nd,'orexa4inin7a 
series  of  specimens,  to  contain  various  tropical. 

coai-neios  of  Bntam;  and  as  the  same  formation 
occurs  m  Jameson's  Land,  in  north  latitude™!*  h 
8  very  probable  that  future  naturalists  vdU  detect, 
m  its  stra  a,  plants  of  a  simUar  nature.  RemSns  of 
plants  with  tropical  characters,  evidently  ™  their 
native  place  of  growth,  under  the  75°  north  latitude 
18  a  fact  which  naturaUy  leads  to  very  intSeS 

l^"'fr?  '"  '^^^  *°  »he  ancientTorrI  of  K 
land,  the  former  state  of  the  climate,  and  com^ 
quently  to  the  early  condition  of  the  Mhn^^d 
vegetable  kingdoms  of  Arctic  lands.    TheS  for 
mation  of  Jameson's  Land,  at  mUN  fvlm  ^^hf^tl 
a  splendid  display  of  secondar^  ^iLuC'as  i    s^ 

rVt  ""^A  *"  '^^  "•'^^1«  division  of  Scm'and. 
rhe  secondary  trap-rocks,— all  of  which  arp  m/»r. 
or  lessof  an  igneous ^in. ^nd  the  coSemTioTof 


.OOY. 

Plutonic  or  ii^ieons 
to  the^r#<  secondare 
he  other  to  the  tecmi- 

This  coal-formation 
»8t,  and  was  met  with 
ty  Scoresby.    It  is  the 
!i  abounds  all  around 
important  deposite  in 
It  coal-mines  in  Scot- 
et  with  only  in  Jame- 
)rincipal  deposite,  and 
Jliar  characters ;  thus 
the  connexion  of  the 
the  surface  of  a  coun- 
ure  and  composition, 
ins  impressions  and 
opical  aspect,— a  cir- 
m  combined  with  the 
'he  coal-formation  in 
3  76°,  where  the  sum- 
und,  on  examining  a 
lin  various  tropical- 
those  met  with  m  the 
the  same  formation 
lorth  latitude  71°,  it 
turalists  will  detect, 
lature.    Remains  of 
.  evidently  in  their 
e  75°  north  latitude, 
to  very  interesting 
ticient  fori\8  of  the 
;limate,  and  conse- 

of  the  animal  and 
nds.  The  coal-for- 
^eiWi  aiffs,  exhibits 
trap-cliffs,  as  is  so 
iion  of  Scotland. 
1  of  which  are  more 
he  consideration  of 


WEST  COAST  OF  OREKNLAND. 


305 


which  is  so  importantly  connected  with  the  position 
of  the  neighbouring  strata,  the  form  of  the  surface, 
and  the  elevation  of  that  surface  above  the  waters 
of  the  ocean, — occur  at  Traill  Island,  forming,  ap- 
parently, nearly  its  whole  mass.  These  rockg  arc 
principally  greenstone,  and  claystone,  and  felspar 
porphyries. 

Neither  Captain  Clavering,  nor  Captain  Sabine, 
who  accompanied  him,  appear  to  have  bestowed 
any  attention  on  the  geology  of  the  country  sur- 
veyed from  Cape  Parry  to  north  latitude  76°,  the 
most  northern  land  of  Greenland  seen  by  Clavering, 
as  all  we  obtain  from  their  reports  is  simply,  that 
the  land  was  mountainous,  from  3000  to  4000  feet 
high,  and  principally  composed  of  trap-rocks. 

Wat  Coast  of  Greenland. — The  west  coast  of  this 
forlorn  region  is  equally  mountainous,  rugged,  and 
desolate  as  the  east.  The  country,  even  when  but 
inconsiderably  elevated  above  the  sea,  is  covered 
with  snow,  or  encased  in  ice.  In  the  warm  season 
of  the  year,  rivers  appear,  but  few  in  number  and  of 
inconsiderable  size,  which  are  supplied  by  the  melting 
of  the  snow  and  ice.  The  same  also  is  the  case 
with  the  lakes,  which  in  some  parts  are  of  considera- 
ble size.  Springs  then  also  burst  forth,  but  in  winter 
the  greater  number  cease.  Giesecke  mentions  a 
tidal  spring,  which  rises  and  falls  with  the  tide ;  and 
a  hot  ^ring,  which  neither  cold  nor  storm  interrupts, 
flows  all  the  year  round  with  a  tumperature  of  104° 
of  Fahrenheit.  This  hot  spring  occurs  in  the  south- 
east of  the  coast,  in  the  island  of  Ounartok,  in  north 
latitude  60°,  and  is  highly  interesting,  as  showing 
that  that  igneous  agency,  which  was  formerly  exerted 
so  extensively  in  this  country,  is  still  at  work  beneath 
the  surface.* 

The  large  islands  that  skirt  this  coast,  of  which 

*  Tho  oiperimems  of  Cordler,  detailed  in  the  New  Edinburgh 
Fhiloaophical  Juurnol,  with  tlic  numerous  dctaiiti  in  regard  to  itie  tem- 
pemliirc  of  sprinsa  and  niincB,  i;o  to  Hupiwrt  tho  idea,  urn  of  a  central 
heat,  btit  of  a  Hource  of  heat  independent  of  that  dcrwed  from  the  suit, 
■lluated  to  tlu  erunl  nf  l/ie  earth. 

H  h  2 


■MWiiMa 


9M 


ARCTIC   OXOLOOV. 


the  most  consideiable  is  Disco,  are,  like  the  conti- 
nent, composed  of  barren  rocliB,andof  valleys  filled 
with  eternal  ice;  while  the  smaller  islands  are 
formed  of  roundish  elevations  and  hills,  the  bases  of 
which  are  inhabited  by  numberless  sea-fowl. 

The  httle  we  know  of  the  geology  has  been  ob. 
tamed  by  examining  the  seacoast,  or  tracts  removed 
but  a  short  distance  from  it,— the  interior  and  higher 
parts  of  the  country  being  inaccessible,  owing  to  the 
deep  and  constant  cover  of  ice  and  snow. 

Four  classes  of  rocks  occur,  viz.  primitive,  se- 
condary, tertiary,  and  alluvial.  The  primitive  Nep. 
tuman  rocks  are,  some  granites,  gneiss,  mica-slute, 
white-stone,  clay-slate,  ffreen-stone,  and  limestone; 
the  pnvfuttve  igneous  rocks,  are  granite  and  porphyry. 
These  rocks  exhibit  the  usual  relations,  the  gneiss 
appearing  as  the  under  or  fundamental  rock,  sup- 
Pprtmg  the  white-stone,  mica-slate,  and  clay-slate, 
with  their  limestones  and  greenstones ;  while  certain 
granites,  syenite,  and  porphyry,  rise  through  the  older 
or  Neptunian  rocks.  In  these  rocks  various  beauti- 
ful  and  curious  simple  minerals  occur,  namely, 
cryohte,  allanite,  sodalite,  thulite;  also  numerous 
precious  garnets,  rock-cryUal,  rose-quartz,  dichroite, 
hypersteru,  apatite  or  phosphate  of  lime,  zircotUluor- 
spar,  calc-spar,  gold-like  mica,  magnetic  iron  ore, 
gadolontte,  tm-stone,  xeolfram,  arsenical  and  iron- 
pyntes,  galena  or  leadglance,  titanium,  &c.  &c. 
Indurated  talc  and  pot-stone  are  also  met  with.  Of 
these  lamjw  and  kettles  are  made.  Utensils  made 
of  these  minerals  are  carried  to  some  districts  where 
tiiey  are  not  found,  and  are  bartered  for  provisions, 
fKrs,  &c.    The  Greenlanders,  says  Crantz,  sometimes 

8ive  them  as  presents  to  persons  of  distinction  in 
enmark,  where  »hey  are  highly  valued,  as  it  is 
thought  that  articles  of  food  prepared  in  them  are 
more  delicate  than  when  done  in  metallic  vessels.  It 
may  here  also  be  noticed,  that  the  gold-like  variety  of 
mica  was  at  one  time  taken  for  gold  j  and  it  is  stated 


1'! 


LOOY. 

tea,  are,  like  the  conti* 
ks,  and  of  valleys  filled 
3  smaller  islands   are 
9  and  hills,  the  bases  of 
irless  sea-fowl. 
geology  has  been  ob- 
oast,  or  tracts  removed 
-the  interior  and  higher 
iccessible,  owing  to  the 
e  and  snow. 
3ur,  viz.  primitive,  se- 
!.    The  primitive  Ntp' 
tes,  gneiss,  mica-slate, 
-stone, aiid  limestone; 
3  granite  and  porphyry, 
al  relations,  the  gneiss 
mdamental  rock,  sup- 
i-slate,  and  clay-slate, 
nstones;  while  certain 
U  rise  through  the  older 
3  rocks  various  beauti- 
erals   occur,  namely, 
«/«■<«/  also  numerous 
roit-(iuart2,  dichroite, 
i  of  lime,  zircon,Jluor' 
■a,  magnetic  iron  ore, 
,  arsenical  and  tVon- 
:e,  titanium,  &c.    &c. 
re  also  met  with.    Of 
made.    Utensils  made 
0  some  districts  where 
artered  for  provisions, 
ays  Crantz,  sometimes 
rsons  of  distinction  in 
ighly  valued,  as  it  is 
prepared  in  them  are 
n  metallic  vessels.    It 
he  gold-like  variety  of 
'gold:  and  it  is  stated 


barrow's  strait  AKD  MELVILLE  ISLAND.     367 

by  Egede,  that  its  appearance  was  so  seducing,  that 
two  successive  expeditions  were  sent  from  Denmark 
in  the  early  part  of  the  17th  century,  in  1636,  for  car- 
goes of  it,  in  the  expectation  of  finding  gold.  Not 
discouraged  by  the  first  failure,  a  second  ship  was 
laden  with  it,  which,  after  the  most  cnreful  analysis, 
was  found  worthless. 

The  secondary  and  tertiary  rocks,  at  present  known 
to  occur  in  this  coast,  are  secondary  or  tertiary  traps. 
or  both,  with  slate-clay,  limestone  containing  fishes, 
and  limestone  containing  imbedded  amber.  These 
limestones  and  slate  contain,  or  are  associated  with, 
beda  of  brown  coal  or  lignite ;  in  some  kinds  of  brown 
coal  amber  also  occurs.  These  newer  trap-rocks, 
the  amygdaloidal,  varieties  of  which  contain  agate, 
jasper,  calcedony,  and  green  earth,  have  been  traced 
from  north  latitude  69°  W  to  the  top  of  Baffin's  Bay, 
the  furthest  northern  point  reached  by  Captain  Ross.* 
A  splendid  display  of  these  rocks  is  presented  in  the 
large  island  named  Disco,  which  is  entirely  formed  of 
them.  The  alluvial  depositions,  which  are  of  sand, 
gravel,  clay,  and  rolled  masses,  occur  on  the  seashore, 
or  on  the  sides  of  the  fiords ;  but  they  are  not  men- 
tioned as  appearing  any  where  in  great  quantity. 
Peat,  which  is  to  be  considered  an  alluvial  formation, 
is  met  with  in  fenny  places,  interspersed  with  roots, 
branches,  decayed  wood,  and  withered  grass.  Much 
of  the  peat  contains  sea-shells,  from  which  it  is  sus- 
pected that  the  sea  washed  over  it  at  some  distant 
period.  No  wood  grows,  but  dri/l-ZDOod  is  frequently 
obtained  on  the  sea-coasts,  particularly  in  the  south- 
ern and  western  parts. 

4.  Barrow's  Strait,  Melville  Island,  Port  Bawen. — 
All  that  is  known  of  the  geology  of  these  Arctic 
lands  we  owe  to  the  Parry  expeditions  in  1819  and 
SO,  and  m  1631-2-3. 

The  east  side  of  ratlin's  Bay,  or  west  coast  of 

*  CoMiderahle  mnaiai  of  v.-ft  ■  ij  iron  weie  <bund  by  Capt.  Hca,  al 
fcwolilck  Pulut,  in  north  latltu(>>  ?oo  2* 


1 


368 


ARCTIC  OCOLOOT. 


Greenland,  aa  already  mentioned,  is  composed  prin- 
cipally  of  primitive  and  secondary  rocks;  on  the 
west  side  of  Baffin's  Day  to  the  entrance  of  Lan- 
caster  s  Sound,  the  predominating  rocks  were  found 
to  be  primitive,  viz.  gneiss,  mica-slate,  and  granite, 
in  the  latitude  of  the  entrance  of  Lancaster's  Sound, 
in  Possession  Bay,  the  rocks  are  granite,  syenite, 
hornblende-rock,  with  disseminated  precious  gameta, 
and  rocks  of  new  red  sandstone,  with  fibrous  and 
granular  gypsum.     The  north  coast  of  Barrow's 
Strait,  as  far  westward  as  the  Polar  Sea,  is  said  to 
consist  of  limestone  resembling  mountain  limestone. 
Both  sides  of  Prmce  Regent's  Inlet  are  formed  of  a 
compact  limestone,  which  contains  fibrous  brown 
iron  ore  and  a  kind  of  brown  coal.    Its  colours  are 
ash-gray,  yellowish-gray,  and  yellowish-brown.    It 
affords  about  80  per  cent,  of  carbonate  of  mague- 
ma,  and  is,  therefore,  a  magnesian  limestoneT  It 
contains  imbedded  masses  of  chert-quartz.     The 
organic  remains  found  in  it  were  entrochttet,  catinu- 
tana,  meropore,  turbinolia,  favositet,  several  species 
01  <er«6ra{ttte.  a  trochus,  a  turriteUa,  and  an  orthoce- 
ratUe.    This  has  been  called  Port  Bimm  limestone : 
its  age  has  not  been  determined.    Resting  upon  it 
there  are  thick  beds  of  gypsum,  containing  selenitic, 
fibrous,  and  foliated  varieties,  which  are  connected 
with  a  slaty  limestone,  which  is  newer  than  the  Port 
Bowen  limestone.    Byam  Martin's  Island  appears  to 
be  composed  of  granite  and  red-coloured  quartz- 
rock.    A  fossil  dicotyledonous  tree  was  found  on  the 
shore  of  this  island.    MelvUle  Island  is  the  most 
western  pomt  ever  navigated  in  the  Polar  sea  from 
the  eastern  entrance.    1»  iies  in  north  latitude  74° 
96 ,  and  west  longitude  1 13"  46'.    Its  length  is  one 
hundred  and  thirty-five  miles  from  east-north-east  to 
south-south-west;  its  breadth  forty  or  fifty  miles. 
Granite,  gneiss  and  syenite,  were  found  in  the  vicinity 
of  Winter  Harbour,  but  the  principal  formations  in 
the  island,  as  far  as  the  specimens  brought  allowed 


HMMk~»<. 


« 


OV. 

d,  is  composed  pr!n< 
idary  rocks;  on  the 
le  entrance  of  Lan- 
ng  rocks  were  found 
a-alate,  and  granite. 
r  Lancaster's  Sound, 
iro  granite,  syenite, 
ted  precious  garneta, 

e,  with  fibrous  and 
coast  of  Barrow's 

Polar  Sea,  is  said  to 
mountain  limestone, 
ilet  are  formed  of  a 
ains  fibrous  brown 
al.    Its  colours  are 
ellowish-brown.    It 
irbonate  of  mague- 
siau  limestone.    It 
chert-quartz.     The 
3  entrochttet,  catinu- 
itet,  several  species 
lla,  and  an  orOioce- 
rt  Bowm  limestone  ; 
3.    Resting  upon  it 
ontaining  selenitic, 
hich  are  connected 
lewer  than  the  Port 
I's  Island  appears  to 
id-coloured  quartz- 
ee  was  found  on  the 
[sland  is  the  most 
the  Polar  sea  from 
I  north  latitude  74"* 
Its  length  is  one 
fi  east-north-east  to 
»rty  or  fifty  miles, 
ound  in  the  vicinity 
;ipal  formations  in 
s  brought  allowed 


mtVILLK   PRNINSVIA. 


800 


ns  to  infer,  appear  to  be  transition  glance  coal,  and  the 
firit,  or  oldest  secondary  coal-formations.  The  rocks 
of  these  formations  observed  there  were  the  follow- 
ing:— 1.  White  quartz-rock,  sometimes  micaceous, 
containing  impressions  of  trilobites,  belonging  to  the 
genus  asaphus.  Sandstone  containing  trocni,  or  joints 
of  the  stem  of  the  encrinns,  but  the  most  frequent 
fossils  in  the  sandstone  were  vegetable  casts  and  im- 
pressions of  species  in  some  measure  characteristic 
of  the  coal-sandstone,  particularly  arborescent  /ems, 
resembling  those  which  at  present  occur  only  m  the 
tropical  regions  of  the  earth.  Slate-clay  and  clay- 
ironstone  were  also  found  associated  with  the  coal- 
sandstono ;  one  specimen  of  ironstone  was  found  to 
contain  a  fossil  autc«/a,  named  by  K6nig,  Melvilliana, 
in  honour  of  Lord  Melville.  The  secondary  coal  is 
more  or  less  of  a  slaty  structure :  its  colour  is  of  a 
brownish  black.  It  emits  no  unpleasant  smell  when 
burning,  and  leaves  copious  grayish-white  coloured 
ashes.  It  is  quite  a  different  coal  from  the  brown 
coal  of  Disco,  which  contains  amber.  It  would  ap- 
pear that  the  trilobite,  or  glance  coal,  is  connected 
■with  quartz-rock,  while  the  secondary  coal  rests 
upon  a  limestone  resembling  the  mountam  limestone, 
containing  bivalve  shells  and  corallines,  a  species  of 
terebratula,  and  the  Favosttes  Goihlandicus.  These 
deposites  appear  to  be  traversed  by  whin  dykes  or 
trap-veins. 

6.  Islands  and  Countries  bordering  on  Hvdson's 
Bay  examined  and  partly  discovered  by  Captain 
Parry. — The  lands  bordenng  on  Hudson's  Bay,  and 
the  islands  mentioned  by  Captain  Parry,  viz.  Melville 
Peninsula,  Vansittart  Island,  Baffin  Island,  Winter 
Island,  Cockbum  Island,  Southampton  Island,  &c., 
are  not  very  much  elevated  above  the  level  of  the 
sea, — the  average  height  is  800  feet,  and  the  highest 
summits  not  exceeding  1500  feet.  The  valleys  are 
narrow  and  rugged,  and  the  cliffs  sometimes  display 
mural  precipices  of  more  than  one  hundred  feet  high. 


970  -  ARCTIC  OXOLOOT. 

Tlio  country  is  covered  with  ice  and  unow  the  (neater 
part  of  the  year,  often  exhibitin)?  the  moHt  Npleudid 
colours  mid  iridescences,  and  forms  of  tlie  most  pic- 
turesque description.  The  upper  soil  varies  from  a 
few  inches  to  a  foot  in  depth,  beneath  which  tho 
pound  is  frozen  solid  throughout  the  whole  year. 
The  rocks  of  which  this  country  is  composed  vary 
ill  their  nature ;  in  some  places  primitive  rocks  pre- 
dominatinij,  in  others  thoes  of  the  transition,  or  ol 
tho  secondary  classes ;  no  tertiary  rocks  were  met 
with,  nor  formations  eitlicr  of  tho  ancient  or  modern 
volcanic  periods.  Tlie  primitive  rocks  enumerated 
and  descriiied  are  tho  tollowing -.—(Jranile,  gneiss, 
mica  slate,  clay  Hlate,  chlorite  slate,  primitive  trap, 
serpentine,  limestone,  and  porphyry.  In  these  rocks 
several  interesting  minerals  occur,  as  the  gems  named 
zircon  and  beryl,  also  precious  eamet,  aaynoliie,  tre- 
tnolile,  diallage,  coccolite,  rock  crystal,  cale  .^par, 
rhomb  ipar,  asbestot,  graphite  or  black-lead,  specular 
.  ^  ore,  magnetic  iron  ore,  chrome  ore,  or  chromate 
of  iron,  titanitic  iron,  common  and  magnetic  iron  py- 
rites. The  transition  rocks  are  quartz-rock,  old  red 
sandstone,  or  red  graywacke,  common  graywacke, 
and  flinty  slate.  In  them  the  following  minerals 
were  found ;  viz.  felspar,  mica,  chlorite,  pale  rose 
ifuartz,  epidote,  rock  crystal,  short,  molybdena,  iron 
glance,  magnetic  iron  ore,  copper  pyrites,  and  iron 
pyrites. 

Of  the  secondary  rocks,  the  only  kinds  met  with 
were  limestone,  bituminous  shale,  and  greenstone. 
No  fossil  organic  remains  were  detected  in  any  of  tho 
rocks  of  this  series  but  the  limestone,  which  afforded 
two  genera  of  corals,  viz.  caryophyllea  and  astrea; 
one  crustaceous  annual  of  the  tn7o»tte  genus ;  a^wo- 
ductus,  a  terebratula,  and  species  of  the  genera  nau- 
tilus, trochus,  and  orthocoiras.  No  extensive  de- 
posites  of  alluvial  matters  were  met  with.  The 
most  striking  objects  are  the  rolled  masses  or  boul- 
dors,  spread  over  some  of  the  islands.   Some  islands, 


.oar. 

e  and  anow  the  )n«atCT 
in)7  Uio  moHt  Hpleiulid 
Forms  of  the  most  pic- 
jper  soil  viirieH  fioin  a 
1,  l)eiieiith  which  the 
ihout  the  wholo  year, 
iitry  is  composed  vary 
68  primitive  rocks  pre- 
f  the  traiiHition,  or  oi 
rtiary  rocits  were  met 
the  ancient  or  modem 
ivo  rocks  enumerated 
ing: — (iranite,  gneiss, 
3  slate,  primitive  trap, 
)hyry.  In  these  rocks 
Mr,  as  the  gems  named 

gamet,  aaynoliit,  tre- 
ck  cryitalf  cole  .^par, 
or  black-lead,  specular 
\roine  ore,  or  chrmnate 
and  magnetic  iron  py- 
re quartz-rock,  old  red 

common  graywacke, 
le  following  minerals 
ca,  chlorite,  pale  rota 
ahorl,  molybdena,  iron 
pper  pyrites,  and  iron 

;  only  kinds  met  with 
ihale,  and  greenstone. 
I  detected  in  any  of  the 
lestone,  which  afforded 
yophyllea  and  astrea; 
triloiite germs;  upro- 
ies  of  the  genera  nau- 
I.  No  extensive  de- 
were  met  with.  The 
oiled  masses  or  boul- 
slands.   Some  islands, 


ARCTIO  OIOIOOT. 


sri 


entirely  composed  of  limestone,  wore  stratred  OTer 
with  boulders,  often  of  enormous  size,  of  gnein, 
granite,  and  quarts,  although  no  hillaof  these  focks 
were  witliin  some  hundred  miles. 

COROLVPIKe  MMABXS. 

The  observations  made  in  Cherie  Island,  Jan  May- 
en's  Island,  Spitsbergen,  Old  Greenland,  and  the 
various  lands  and  islands  first  explored  during  the 
four  Arctic  expeditions,  viz.  that  imder  Captain  RosSi 
and  the  three  under  Captain  Parry,  afford  the  foU 
lowing  general  facts  and  inferences  :— 

1.  That  these  miserable  and  almost  uninhabited 
regions  abound  in  primitive  and  transition  rocks,  and 
that  although  secondary  rocks  occupy  considerable 
tracts,  still  as  far  as  is  known  at  present,  their  extent 
is  more  limited  than  that  of  the  older  formations ; 
that  the  alluvial  deposites  are  not  extensive ;  that 
true  modem  volcanic  rocks  occur  only  in  Jan  May- 
en*s  Island;  and  that  the  only  tmces  of  tertiary 
strata  were  found  in  tho  sandston^'^,  and  clays,  and 
limestones  connected  with  the  new  trap-rocks  in 
Baffin's  Day. 

8.  That  the  Neptunian,  primitive,  and  transition 
rocks,  now  forminia;  islands  of  various  magnitudes, 
were  in  all  probabihty  at  one  time  connected  together, 
and  formed  a  more  continuous  mass  of  land  than  at 
present ;  and  that  on  these  formations  were  depo- 
sited the  secondary  limestones,  sandstones,  gypsum, 
and  coal,  and  upon  these  again  the  tertiary  rocKs,  and 
the  still  newer  shtU-clay  of  Spitzbergen :  That  these 
various  kinds  of  primary,  transition,  secondary,  and 
tertiary  rocks  and  alluvial  clays  were  raised  above 
the  lf>vel  of  the  sea  at  different  times,  through  the 
agency  of  the  igneous  and  volcanic  rocks. 

3.  That  in  the  course  of  time  the  land  was  broken 
up,— either  suddenly  or  bv  degrees,  or  partly  by  sud- 
den and  violent  actioni  uhd  partly  by  the  long-con- 


BWilWMlEl^JIWW'!!UJ|iJjll,MI!Mi'Uj|IJIUWIJLMMJ«-illJIWW 


IBllliJBMWii, 


872 


ARCTtC  OEoioar. 


tinued  agency  of  the  atmosphere  and  the  ocean,— 
into  Its  present  insular  form ;  and  that,  consequently, 
the  secondary  and  tertiary  formations  were  fonnerly 
in  these  regions  more  extensively  distributed  than  at 
present. 

4.  That  previously  to  the  deposition  of  the  coal 
formation,  as  m  Melville  Island  and  in  Jameson's 
Land,  the  previously-existing,  or  older  hills,  supported 
a  vegetation  resembling  that  wliich  at  present  cha- 
racterizes the  tropical  regions.  The  fossil  corals  in 
the  limestones,  corals  of  which  the  prototypes  are 
at  present  met  with  in  the  hot  seas  of  the  tropical 
regions,  also  intimate  that,  before,  during,  and  after 
the  deposition  of  the  coal-formation,  the  waters  of 
the  Arctic  ocean  were  so  constituted  as  to  support 
polyparia,  or  corals,  resembling  those  of  the  present 
equatorial  seas. 

5.  That  probably  the  ancient  climates  of  the  Arc- 
tic regions  were  connected  in  some  degree  with  the 
former  magnitude  and  form  of  the  Arctic  lands,  and 
their  relations  to  the  magnitude  and  height  of  other 
countries. 

3.  That  the  boulders  or  rolled  blocks  met  with  in 
different  quarters,  and  in  tracts  distant  from  their 
original  localities,  afford  evidence  of  the  passage  of 
water  across  them,  and  at  a  period  subsequent  to  the 
deposition  of  the  newest  Neptunian  strata. 

7.  That  possibly  the  distribution  of  the  erratic 
blocks  or  boulders,  was  occasioned  by  the  agitations 
In  the  ocean,  caused  by  the  upraising  of  certain 
lands. 

8.  That  the  black  or  common  coal,  the  coal  of  the 
old  or  most  abundant  coal-formation,  which  some 
speculators  maintain  to  be  confined  to  the  more  tem- 
perate and  warmer  regions  of  the  earth,  is  now 
proved,— by  its  discovery  by  Parry  in  Melville  Island 
far  to  the  west,  and  by  Scoresby  far  to  the  east  in 
Jameson's  Land,  to  form  an  interesting  feature  in 
the  geognostical  constitution  of  Arctic  countries. 


MM 


HIWIWHW»'lll>.iWlaP.gn|i 


.oar. 

ere  and  the  ocean,— 
nd  that,  consequently, 
aations  were  fonnerly 
ely  distributed  than  at 

eposition  of  the  coal 
id  and  in  Jameson's 
r  older  hills,  supported 
liich  at  present  cha- 
The  fossil  corals  in 
shthe  prototypes  are 
seas  of  the  tropical 
are,  during,  and  after 
lation,  the  waters  of 
tituted  as  to  support 
f  those  of  the  present 

climates  of  the  Arc- 
ome  degree  with  the 
the  Arctic  lands,  and 
!  and  height  of  other 

1  blocks  met  with  in 
s  distant  from  their 
ice  of  the  passage  of 
iod  subsequent  to  the 
inian  strata, 
ution  of  the  erratic 
ned  by  the  agitations 
upraising  of  certain 

coal,  the  coal  of  the 
mation,  which  some 
led  to  the  more  tem- 
'  the  earth,  is  now 
Tyin  Melville  Island 
y  far  to  the  east  in 
iteiesting  feature  ia 
Arctic  countries. 


AROTIO  OEOLOOT. 


373 


9.  TTiat  the  new  red  sandstone  and  gypsum  found 
in  tracts  allow  us  to  infer  that  they  contain  rock-salt. 

10.  That  although  few  new  metalliferous  speci- 
mens  have  been  found  to  gratify  the  curiosity  cf  the 
mineralogist,  yet  the  previous  details  show  that  valu- 
able ores  of  iron,  copper,  lead,  and  tin,  and  also  gra- 
phite, or  black-lead,  are  met  with. 

11.  That  the  gems,  the  most  valued  and  most 
beautiful  of  mineral  substances,  are  not  wanting  in 
the  Arctic  regions,  as  is  proved  by  the  occurrence 
there  of  precious  garnets,  beryls,  zircons,  dichroiteSi 
and  rock-crystals. 

12.  That  the  islands  and  lands  described  in  the 
sketch  exhibit  the  same  general  geognostical  ar- 
rangements as  occur  in  all  other  extensive  tracts  of 
country  hitherto  examined  by  the  naturalist, — a  fact 
which  strengthens  that  opinion  which  maintains  that 
the  grand  features  of  nature,  in  the  mineral  king- 
dom, are  everywhere  similar,  and,  consequently,  that 
the  same  general  agencies  must  have  prevailed 
during  the  formation  of  the  different  groups  of  rocks 
of  which  the  earth  is  composed. 


iiu  ran. 


.^ 


^ 


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r  by  mail  post  paid.  In 
1  over  one  thousand  vol- 
h  of  literature,  standard 
tion  of  persons  forming 
ublic,  is  particularly  di- 
f  valuable  standard  his- 
rorks  comprised  in  the 
llowing : 

work  is  sold 


153  voIm. 

36  vols. 

200  vols. 

33  vols. 

15  vols. 

15  vols. 

10  vols. 

6  vols. 

6  vols. 


sijfciaiBtV  I 


